Very good and fair explanations. I went witb PEX-A as advised by the helper at Ferguson's. I did use the manaual expader, but took care to do the rotations. Just a small project so far to replace a whole house charcoal filter on my cold supply.
Hey Jim - Great info. Who the heck got you to smile so widely on the thumbnail of the video? You're never that happy. :) Did you witness a car accident or something. Stay safe out there. Don't believe me? Go ask the Mailman.
Our house was re-plumbed with PEX B and we have no issues with water pressure or flow. Plus PEX B is more resistant to Chlorine which is in city/county water supplies and we are on city water so Chlorine is an issue.
PEX B does reduce flow unless the plumber cared and did it right, but not code standards. 1/2 copper gas about the same inside diameter as a 3/4 PEX fitting. So if you're plumber followed code he would put in 1/2 PEX B which has about an inside diameter of 3/8. But if he thought of you he would have ran 3/4 and you wouldn't notice a problem.
Connection type is determined not by the chemical process used to make the pipe. ASTM specifies it. Expansion fittings are the F1960 standard, and both Zurn and Sioux Chief sell PEX B that can be connected that way.
So, am I correct to think if you were building a new home using a municipal water supply (chlorinated)- might PEX B be a better choice if you buy the expandable type (like A) as it would not have flow restrictions and be superior to chlorine damage over A? Downside, yes less flexible.. SOMEONE....please answer this nagging Q I have... thanks
Juli Grlee, do you mean the main water line coming from the street to the house? I would recommend copper or PE water pipe. PE water pipe is a black pipe that can be heat welded.
If you're not worried about water flow restriction or installation speed or cost, why not use PEX B? What I'm trying to say is, when is it better to use PEX B? This video didn't really explain when it's better to use one over the other. This video mostly bragged about PEX A and that's it.
I would like to know more about the DRZ ratings on the fittings and if it is bad practice to use brass without a dzr rating in residential above ground applications.
Hi guys I have to run a line for my refrigerator that’s gong to go directly behind my stove the line will run at floor level would you recommend still recommend the PEX or go with copper?
@@fredhugi5282 there are certain fittings that need to be used with each type of Pex tubing. There are markings on the pipes. You just need to look for them or have someone help you.
@Jamo12, do you mean expansion sleeves? PEX A is the only one that uses expansion tools on the pipe and the sleeve. I have not yet heard about Zurn’s PEX B using expansion fittings.
@@TheGrumpyPlumber thank you for your reply! I did mean expansion sleeves. Zurn’s PEX B pipe is rated to meet ASTM F1960 (cold-expansion) requirements.
Got a good one for you, not related but trying grasp at anything for an answer had a water heater from 1987 go out in a family home. Old galvinized pipes. We bought a new one electric 50 gal. Installed it no problem to the manufacturer instructions... until we went to open up the hot lines in the house to get the air out. We'll it said there would be a steady stream... but it's barley coming out... so we left them open for while to see if anything changed... but still the same trickles and super low pressure. Cold works fine on all fixtures, Checked the tank and tank is full. We haven't connected electricity yet due to not knowing if this is correct steady stream or not...... please help
Farrah Jade Fuston-Herbert, you probable have electrolysis in the cold line or the hot line. There are two things you can do: you can either replace a few feet of the hot and cold water lines or you can disconnect the pipes from the water heater and try to clean the inside of the pipes with a large screwdriver. There might be a couple of inches of rust that is slowing the volume of water to the inlet or outlet pipes.
Does it come out the drain? Did you leave a cap/plug on the outlet? If not, a chunk of junk probably is plugging the outlet Turn water off, open all hot water faucets, and drain the tank. Then try again
You can only use heat to repair a kink in pex-a. Pex-b you have to cut the kink out and put in a fitting causing an additional restriction. The need to cut the kink out in pex-b is per the manufacturer. And the pex-B is made using Silane not saline. Otherwise great information. I also prefer pex-a.
@canoeshoe, I’ve never heard anything about this lawsuit. There was a lawsuit years ago over the grey poly pipe but it was the metal clamping rings that was the defect.
PEX A is a type of pipe. PEX A is not a brand in and of itself. That being said, there are several different brands of PEX A. One particular brand, Uponor, did face lawsuits years back. I do know the final outcome, but they remain the largest (but not the only) supplier of PEX A.
Uponor stopped selling the red and blue pipe and only selling the white pipe with red or blue label after seeing leaking issues. The color process is causing issues but other sites on RUclips say all PEX-A has this issue
The lawsuit is against Uponor with red and abba blue color only. Supposedly the new oponor clear pipe has been reconciled so that it’s not a problem. Personal I’d stay clear of pex A altogether.
Pex A is more expensive I'm a master plumber and I use pex B with the copper crimp rings and poly fittings , by the way pex C is the pex nibco sold till 2011 they are being sued cause of failure and pex B is the best
What about Pex D? Pex A has a far longer history, back to the 1940s in Germany. Don’t store or use Pex where exposed to sunlight or fluorescent lights. Beware of rodents; they sometimes will chew Pex
Did he say that the Tool cost $500.00 , i would have to say no to buying one of the tools , I will see if I could rent one , not every one can just pull out $500.00 for a tool .
You say you like pex a because it maintains the diameter inside of the original three-quarter line question do they make your cut offs, or lines from your water heater they’re a three-quarter I believe they’re 3/8 which is inside diameter would reduce the water flow so I’m not sure what the difference will be do to you need cut offs to a water heater and main cut off I’m sure there’s one or two fittings that I’m missing under the sink cut off the toilet cut off all those or reduce water flow so I’m not sure if this argument about pipe size pans out however I do love your work
im amazed the channel has not grown exponentially, it will happen for sure
Very good and fair explanations. I went witb PEX-A as advised by the helper at Ferguson's. I did use the manaual expader, but took care to do the rotations. Just a small project so far to replace a whole house charcoal filter on my cold supply.
Hey Jim - Great info. Who the heck got you to smile so widely on the thumbnail of the video? You're never that happy. :) Did you witness a car accident or something. Stay safe out there. Don't believe me? Go ask the Mailman.
Our house was re-plumbed with PEX B and we have no issues with water pressure or flow. Plus PEX B is more resistant to Chlorine which is in city/county water supplies and we are on city water so Chlorine is an issue.
PEX B does reduce flow unless the plumber cared and did it right, but not code standards. 1/2 copper gas about the same inside diameter as a 3/4 PEX fitting. So if you're plumber followed code he would put in 1/2 PEX B which has about an inside diameter of 3/8. But if he thought of you he would have ran 3/4 and you wouldn't notice a problem.
Another happy video from grumpy. Lol
Connection type is determined not by the chemical process used to make the pipe. ASTM specifies it. Expansion fittings are the F1960 standard, and both Zurn and Sioux Chief sell PEX B that can be connected that way.
Also check out PE-RT piping, and expansionable Zurn Pex B piping.
PE-RT piping is recyclable, and allegedly stands up to chlorine/chloramine.
💧 This presentation is rated ' PEX Perfect ' ☺️👌
Hey Jim thanks for the great information 👍
What are your thoughts of Zurn expandable pex B? Is it better than pex a?
this was very helpful thank you!
You can expand Zurn and Sioux Chief B and use the same F1960 fittings as A...
So, am I correct to think if you were building a new home using a municipal water supply (chlorinated)- might PEX B be a better choice if you buy the expandable type (like A) as it would not have flow restrictions and be superior to chlorine damage over A? Downside, yes less flexible.. SOMEONE....please answer this nagging Q I have... thanks
🔥🔥👊👊👍 thank you sir
What kind of manifold should you use from the main feed line coming from the street - copper - PEX A
Juli Grlee, do you mean the main water line coming from the street to the house? I would recommend copper or PE water pipe. PE water pipe is a black pipe that can be heat welded.
If you're not worried about water flow restriction or installation speed or cost, why not use PEX B? What I'm trying to say is, when is it better to use PEX B? This video didn't really explain when it's better to use one over the other. This video mostly bragged about PEX A and that's it.
I would like to know more about the DRZ ratings on the fittings and if it is bad practice to use brass without a dzr rating in residential above ground applications.
Hi guys I have to run a line for my refrigerator that’s gong to go directly behind my stove the line will run at floor level would you recommend still recommend the PEX or go with copper?
Bill Van Raam, I would recommend a braided stainless steel water line or copper, whichever is easier.
What markings on the piping identify the type of PDX or how else do you identify it with certainty?
@@fredhugi5282 there are certain fittings that need to be used with each type of Pex tubing. There are markings on the pipes. You just need to look for them or have someone help you.
👍
have you had the pipe fail due to additves in city water yet? theres a guy that has been trying to make people aware of it
In order to explain the different types please use samples of each A B and C in your video. All I understood was a salesman pitch for type A pex
Talk to me about PEX B expandable, like PEX A - maintains the constant ID as A does F1960 also- please comment- thanks
I was looking some stuff up and one company that makes PEX B, Zurn, can use expansion fittings. Do you have any experience with this?
@Jamo12, do you mean expansion sleeves? PEX A is the only one that uses expansion tools on the pipe and the sleeve. I have not yet heard about Zurn’s PEX B using expansion fittings.
@@TheGrumpyPlumber thank you for your reply! I did mean expansion sleeves. Zurn’s PEX B pipe is rated to meet ASTM F1960 (cold-expansion) requirements.
@@Jamo12 It sure is, and it's cited in their spec sheet too.
What makes a great tank
Juli Grlee, I’m not sure what you mean by a great tank.
A Think Tank makes a great Tank I think. What do you think?😂
Got a good one for you, not related but trying grasp at anything for an answer had a water heater from 1987 go out in a family home. Old galvinized pipes. We bought a new one electric 50 gal. Installed it no problem to the manufacturer instructions... until we went to open up the hot lines in the house to get the air out. We'll it said there would be a steady stream... but it's barley coming out... so we left them open for while to see if anything changed... but still the same trickles and super low pressure. Cold works fine on all fixtures, Checked the tank and tank is full. We haven't connected electricity yet due to not knowing if this is correct steady stream or not...... please help
Farrah Jade Fuston-Herbert, you probable have electrolysis in the cold line or the hot line. There are two things you can do: you can either replace a few feet of the hot and cold water lines or you can disconnect the pipes from the water heater and try to clean the inside of the pipes with a large screwdriver. There might be a couple of inches of rust that is slowing the volume of water to the inlet or outlet pipes.
Does it come out the drain? Did you leave a cap/plug on the outlet? If not, a chunk of junk probably is plugging the outlet
Turn water off, open all hot water faucets, and drain the tank. Then try again
👍👍
Heard report on RUclips of pinholes in Pex-A after 10 years. Thoughts on this?
Have not seen this report. No comment.
You can only use heat to repair a kink in pex-a.
Pex-b you have to cut the kink out and put in a fitting causing an additional restriction. The need to cut the kink out in pex-b is per the manufacturer.
And the pex-B is made using Silane not saline.
Otherwise great information. I also prefer pex-a.
No need to call your dad a grumpy plumber. All plumbers are grumpy so your dad is just a normal plumber
I thought PEX A was under a large class action lawsuit for corrosion from inside the tubing? I use clear but i saw red and blue cracking and leaking
@canoeshoe, I’ve never heard anything about this lawsuit. There was a lawsuit years ago over the grey poly pipe but it was the metal clamping rings that was the defect.
PEX A is a type of pipe. PEX A is not a brand in and of itself. That being said, there are several different brands of PEX A. One particular brand, Uponor, did face lawsuits years back. I do know the final outcome, but they remain the largest (but not the only) supplier of PEX A.
Uponor stopped selling the red and blue pipe and only selling the white pipe with red or blue label after seeing leaking issues. The color process is causing issues but other sites on RUclips say all PEX-A has this issue
@@ronyoung3623 That's why im totally confused on what i should be using haha
The lawsuit is against Uponor with red and abba blue color only. Supposedly the new oponor clear pipe has been reconciled so that it’s not a problem. Personal I’d stay clear of pex A altogether.
Pex A is more expensive I'm a master plumber and I use pex B with the copper crimp rings and poly fittings , by the way pex C is the pex nibco sold till 2011 they are being sued cause of failure and pex B is the best
What about Pex D?
Pex A has a far longer history, back to the 1940s in Germany.
Don’t store or use Pex where exposed to sunlight or fluorescent lights. Beware of rodents; they sometimes will chew Pex
This is just out of date zurn b does have expansion fittings
Did he say that the Tool cost $500.00 , i would have to say no to buying one of the tools , I will see if I could rent one , not every one can just pull out $500.00 for a tool .
Jonathan PaulC, I’ve hear that people who have bought the tool resell it when done.
dewalt makes one, $300 the DCE400B
should be labeled understanding pex a said little to nothing about B or C
Or, you can buy the tool from home depot, and return it within 90 days. Free rental!
So you’re the guy. My “new” tool looked a little ragged when I unboxed it.
This honestly did not show me the true "differences" of anything... Sorry...
Again, another clueless plumber.
You say you like pex a because it maintains the diameter inside of the original three-quarter line question do they make your cut offs, or lines from your water heater they’re a three-quarter I believe they’re 3/8 which is inside diameter would reduce the water flow so I’m not sure what the difference will be do to you need cut offs to a water heater and main cut off I’m sure there’s one or two fittings that I’m missing under the sink cut off the toilet cut off all those or reduce water flow so I’m not sure if this argument about pipe size pans out however I do love your work
Hey Jim thanks for the great information 👍