Excellent. Wish I saw this a month ago. I kinda learned by just doing it without any knowledge. I have a feeling I may have overtightened my cone. Crunch!!!! Hopefully not!
Bad buzzing on my Paul Beard Model R which, despite you saying you're buzz free at the end of this video, I can still hear (42:18 and 42:32) from your instrument. You seem to blame the age of the 3rd string, but I have exactly the same issue with my 3rd (a 29 btw). I put on a brand new 3rd, and that fixes the issue but after a few good plays the buzz is back. Is this a Paul Beard instrument issue? I'm kinda relieved that I've found another instrument that has this issue, but also concerned because you don't appear to hear it. Any tips on how to fix? Great video. Thanks man.
No buzz on my end. Clean as a whistle. Can't comment on yours without having it on the bench. Strings, nut and inserts are all "replacement/wear items" and are often tweaked or replaced due to age & wear/tear when necessary! Good luck with finding your issue.
@@dcsteelman Are you not hearing the buzz at the times I've highlighted? You even reference it as being the string (42:37 "That third string is dead..."), but it's a clear buzz, and it's exactly the same buzz the third string on my Paul Beard produces. I have noticed, thanks to your video, that my spider isn't aligned correctly. I've also been advised to look at the feet (the parts of the spider that touch the cone) to make sure they're all making contact, but I note that you didn't reference that in the above video. Is that a common issue? Thanks man.
@@nathonjones9825 I'll review the video again. If I alluded to a dead string than I did. Strings DO go dead of course and when I play I do change the strings before and after every gig. A lot of us do that. I don't have a recollection of the strings that were on the guitar 2 years ago ;-). many boxes of strings have come and gone . As for the spider, yes. Absolutely normal to misalign over time. Make sure that the bridge is absolutely perpendicular to the neck. Also if a cone becomes deformed over time, preventing proper spider contact, the cone should be replaced. This is assuming the guitar's tension screw has been appropriately adjusted. You don't mention the guitars age but fwiw, my guitars get set up every 3-5 years (professional player). I know several known players that have setups done EVERY year. I also change strings every 3 hours or so. Many players also do this. Unlike a conventional guitar, the bar really shortens string life.
@@nathonjones9825 I've relistened to the segment and the 3rd string definitely "thuds" as I mention but, after adjusting the tension screw the guitar plays "clean" (rattle free) which has nothing to do with the 3rd string. Hope that clears things. Good luck with yours!
It looked at first that the original cone was slotted for the cable, but went frame be frame and it appeared some sort of stick something to protect cable from side of cone. Did I see that right? Dot of silicone?
The cone was not modified in any way. There may have been a dot of pliable putty where the wiring went through the wall of the cone ledge, on the way to the jack. I don't recall.
At 30.40 you say "you can't see the nut, but I can". It has always been my understanding that the nut is at the peg head end and the saddle is located, in this case on the spider. That said, I have heard some European sources reverse that order.
Hi! Ver well explained, thanks! :) I'm looking for some info, regarding the replacement of this Spider resonator with a bisc. resonator. Is this possible? I have a self made dobro, round neck, with a spider reson. and i'm wondering if sound would be more bluesy with that change... what do you think? thanks in advance!
The OMI/Dobro Model 33 was the only guitar I know that could accept both spider and biscuit but, required a special 10 1/2 inch biscuit cone which is no longer made. The guitar was not that popular. The standard National style biscuit is 9 1/2 inches dia. and it would be almost impossible to modify a spider built guitar to accept that cone. They also mount completely differently.
I consider the "open soundwell" (vs. open body) to be a Beard design where they elongate the holes in the soundwell between the upper and lower bouts of the guitar to make a much larger, oval shaped opening. Hope that makes sense!
Perfect! Thx Howard. I'm trying to decide on a R body but not sure it I'll be too much different than my Deco 37. I really like the 37 a lot! Don't want 2 with similar sounds. I've watched all the demo videos 100 times and still can't make up my mind! Lol
@@snikpmotak I don't own a Deco (have played them) but own a Vint R and a Mahogany R and with my right hand I hear a non-trivial difference, The R being a bit more "complex" and "deeper" sounding, if that makes sense.
I don't recall seeing anything under the installations that Paul does. That's a whole different animal than a standard tail. Prob should reach out to Beard for a definitive answer. It might depend on the specific guitar or hardware.
Hey Howard, I just reviewed this video as I'm about to tackle a deep cleaning on my two resos. Great video! Thanks!
You are more than welcome. Glad you find it useful!!
Thanks! Great video!
Very helpful Howard...thank you !
Thanks I needed your video!
You are more than welcome. Glad you found this useful. -hp
So helpful! Thank Howard!
Great video. Thank you Howard!
You betcha!
Great video Howard. Thank you.
Excellent. Wish I saw this a month ago. I kinda learned by just doing it without any knowledge. I have a feeling I may have overtightened my cone. Crunch!!!!
Hopefully not!
Glad it was helpful!
Well done!
Thanks Sweetie!! I'd rather be gigging though! ;-)
Bad buzzing on my Paul Beard Model R which, despite you saying you're buzz free at the end of this video, I can still hear (42:18 and 42:32) from your instrument. You seem to blame the age of the 3rd string, but I have exactly the same issue with my 3rd (a 29 btw). I put on a brand new 3rd, and that fixes the issue but after a few good plays the buzz is back. Is this a Paul Beard instrument issue? I'm kinda relieved that I've found another instrument that has this issue, but also concerned because you don't appear to hear it. Any tips on how to fix? Great video. Thanks man.
No buzz on my end. Clean as a whistle. Can't comment on yours without having it on the bench. Strings, nut and inserts are all "replacement/wear items" and are often tweaked or replaced due to age & wear/tear when necessary!
Good luck with finding your issue.
@@dcsteelman Are you not hearing the buzz at the times I've highlighted? You even reference it as being the string (42:37 "That third string is dead..."), but it's a clear buzz, and it's exactly the same buzz the third string on my Paul Beard produces.
I have noticed, thanks to your video, that my spider isn't aligned correctly. I've also been advised to look at the feet (the parts of the spider that touch the cone) to make sure they're all making contact, but I note that you didn't reference that in the above video. Is that a common issue? Thanks man.
@@nathonjones9825 I'll review the video again. If I alluded to a dead string than I did. Strings DO go dead of course and when I play I do change the strings before and after every gig. A lot of us do that. I don't have a recollection of the strings that were on the guitar 2 years ago ;-). many boxes of strings have come and gone .
As for the spider, yes. Absolutely normal to misalign over time. Make sure that the bridge is absolutely perpendicular to the neck. Also if a cone becomes deformed over time, preventing proper spider contact, the cone should be replaced. This is assuming the guitar's tension screw has been appropriately adjusted.
You don't mention the guitars age but fwiw, my guitars get set up every 3-5 years (professional player). I know several known players that have setups done EVERY year. I also change strings every 3 hours or so. Many players also do this.
Unlike a conventional guitar, the bar really shortens string life.
@@nathonjones9825 I've relistened to the segment and the 3rd string definitely "thuds" as I mention but, after adjusting the tension screw the guitar plays "clean" (rattle free) which has nothing to do with the 3rd string. Hope that clears things. Good luck with yours!
It looked at first that the original cone was slotted for the cable, but went frame be frame and it appeared some sort of stick something to protect cable from side of cone. Did I see that right? Dot of silicone?
The cone was not modified in any way. There may have been a dot of pliable putty where the wiring went through the wall of the cone ledge, on the way to the jack. I don't recall.
At 30.40 you say "you can't see the nut, but I can". It has always been my understanding that the nut is at the peg head end and the saddle is located, in this case on the spider. That said, I have heard some European sources reverse that order.
At 30:40 the nut is not visible on the screen. I was confirming that I could see the strings in the nut slot.
Was there ever a episode 3?
ruclips.net/video/8p2ZkgRCybE/видео.htmlsi=sSa_w7NJ25-mvoxC
Hi! Ver well explained, thanks! :) I'm looking for some info, regarding the replacement of this Spider resonator with a bisc. resonator. Is this possible? I have a self made dobro, round neck, with a spider reson. and i'm wondering if sound would be more bluesy with that change... what do you think? thanks in advance!
The OMI/Dobro Model 33 was the only guitar I know that could accept both spider and biscuit but, required a special 10 1/2 inch biscuit cone which is no longer made. The guitar was not that popular. The standard National style biscuit is 9 1/2 inches dia. and it would be almost impossible to modify a spider built guitar to accept that cone. They also mount completely differently.
@@dcsteelman thank you very much for your help :)
@@dcsteelman by the way: is there any way to hack a dobro spider reso. to mod its vibration?
Not really. It sounds like you should get a metal body biscuit bridge guitar. @@territorio_salvaje
Howard, is this what is considered the "open soundwell design"
I consider the "open soundwell" (vs. open body) to be a Beard design where they elongate the holes in the soundwell between the upper and lower bouts of the guitar to make a much larger, oval shaped opening.
Hope that makes sense!
You can see what I'm referring to at about 22:44.
Perfect! Thx Howard. I'm trying to decide on a R body but not sure it I'll be too much different than my Deco 37. I really like the 37 a lot! Don't want 2 with similar sounds. I've watched all the demo videos 100 times and still can't make up my mind! Lol
@@snikpmotak I don't own a Deco (have played them) but own a Vint R and a Mahogany R and with my right hand I hear a non-trivial difference, The R being a bit more "complex" and "deeper" sounding, if that makes sense.
I mention the Vint R because there are Birch laminate as the Decos are.
Howard, thanks for the video, very helpful! What material would you use for a spacer if the guitar has Hipshot Double Shot?
I don't recall seeing anything under the installations that Paul does. That's a whole different animal than a standard tail. Prob should reach out to Beard for a definitive answer. It might depend on the specific guitar or hardware.
@@dcsteelman thanks Howard!