2JZ FITS IN A 300ZX!! | Custom Crossmember & Mounts | 2JZ Z32 Build Part 16
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Super stoked to have the JZ sitting where it needs to be with all the mods we've made! Shout out to Freed Engineering for making awesome engine mounts.
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#ProjectZupra
Moving along nicely in this build. See you guys back here tomorrow!!
You might run in to some overheating problems she tight asf
Good stuff bro keep up the good work
Hey Calvin just a little info on stripping that paint! I find it easiest to take a old paintbrush and brush the airplane paint remover on and let it sit then use a tooth brush or hard sponge to get the rest off (make sure to use gloves it will burn you). GOOD LUCK ON THE BUILD THIS THINGS GONNA BE SIXK!!!!
Way to resource / re-purpose the mounts, but I would really recommend installing the bushing sleeve into the centers of them. For a few reasons: 1) stability and rigidity of the poly bushing, 2) prevent long-term crushing and failure of the poly, 3) with the amount of loose room those bolts have, and the overall flexibility of the poly, you'll likely experience issues once the engine starts twisting and torquing under load. The engine twist will overpower the poly and cause potentially terrible failure(s). Recommend you trim the sleeves approx 3-4mm shorter than overall poly height to allow the poly to compress just a bit between the upper and lower washers.
Hey man! Thanks for the comment!! I’ll most likely just get the Cusco ones when I’ve got extra funds. But the old bushings in my 240 were straight up Polly and held up really well without a sleeve. But I completely understand what you’re saying.
I second this dudes advice. Soon as you get to booking that poly gonna twist fast without center support.
The heat hose at the back of the engine is connected to the water line that runs along the engine under the header. I would recommend cutting that line before it runs around the back of the block
SC300 junk yard is ur answer for rear sump
Rear sump don't work
To your question yes, that is a heater hose line on the back. Looking good on the build progress
Kalvin bolt up the Cd009 in the engine and test fit it before you paint the engine bay. You might have to hammer a little bit in the firewall to fit the bigger Cd009 bell housing. Keep up the good work! :)
Been binging through the channel for last few days. Skipped a few years of content and got to this Zupra build. This shit is beast AF.
With that said, your idea for the vertical 90° to another 90° to meet the heater isnt going to work. You will trap air at the highest point in the cooling system (that back hose) and never get that shit out. Air bubble in the cooling system will not allow for good flow and temp management. I suggest looking for some sort of "T" in there to allow for manual bleeding of air.
I know some 350,370z,G35,G37 have a plastic screw that needs to be fiddled with to bleed air when burping coolant after a service to the cooling system. Pull one from a yard maybe. Or see what parts stores have.
Source of my knowledge, been wrenching 13 years professionally. Good luck with the build, subbed for more content.
Dope! Rooting for you! DIY legendary status for garage fabrication on a cross-make swap. Had a Z32TT. I own a GS300 now. Drove from CA to TX twice. 284,290 miles on it. 2JZ is one of the best motors ever made. A boosted inline-6 screaming in a 300ZX will be amazing.
Hey my poster just came and it looks fantastic. About to frame it and put it up in my room. Thanks for the awesome content! Keep it up.
Thanks for the motivation! The build is coming along nicely!
Btw im not an expert on welding, but i do some tig and mig welding some times. So that brown like dust around your welds, sometimes is because you need to up the argon+co2 (recommended for mig weld) flow a little more. if you do that it should stop that brown thing around the weld. I love the video btw, keep going strong. :) sorry for the bad english.
285 likes 0 dislikes - Kalvin you are killing it atm. keep it up!
can't wait for the twinz widebody
Is he getting that?! 😍
he talked about it in a previous video
@@husseingt8694 awesome
Hussein GT86 I really hope he gets it
Love being on the west coast cause when I go on my break I get another Kalvin vids super 🔥
"Please leave." Get it?
That is certainly a heater hose. Likely goes from your water pump hardline, to the bottom line on your firewall, from the top line to the line on your head.
Then I believe you have a hose from the other port on your water pump hose that wraps around to your oil filter housing for warming up the oil.
No Alberto Needed 💯
Enjoying the progress👊
#getkalvinanothershop2018
If you don't have the sleeve in the bushings then the engine might start twisting while you are driving. So without the sleeve I don't think you have enough clearance on the xmember
Shouldn’t twist with the trans mounted
He prob ment twist the other way. Some 240s come with engine torque dampeners to help prevent it
Kalvins Garage you know more then I do lol I guess we'll find out
LOJ conversions 300zx lsx to cd009 trans mount, slight modification to make it work.
Inspirational work bro love it
Bout to buy a s14 poster.
Keep it up
The grind will pay off
All love man but dude those welds made me gag😂
Kalvin looking really nice u getting there bro .!!👍👍👍
Don't forget to make the holes to fit the bolts that hold the steering rack brackets before you paint and bolt the engine up
Really good work Kalvin
Build a Lower strut bar for the extra horses. Looking good nice job man
Watched this with subs and the background music bangs
Love the build dude, cant wait to see that 2jz ripping. I would recommend those long bolts you used for the engine mounts should be grade 10 bolts, idk if they are already but just wanted to give the heads up.
You should take some black poliurathan silicon and fill up the gaps in the moter mounts make it alot sturdier.
Alsssooo... about your concerns on effin up the new paint. I just painted my bay and dropped in my 2jz. I threw 3 towels in there, both sides and around the firewall. ‘Twas mint. I have the exact same engine hoist slider as you do. Was super easy angling it all the way down and then worked my way in and backed the slider out to level it out.
Ditto. I think laying some towels or tarps down would be easier than lifting the car sky high. Just my 2 cents...GL either way tho👍🏻
Awsome my man!!! Keep up the great videos!!
Notifications crew out here!
Gang!
Fire ass build bro bro see ya later
Room for radiator yeah but aren't you adding big fans for cooling? Unless you're going to do a tucked radiator it will be a very tight fit
Looking Amazing!
Kalvin how about getting a pipe cutting in half and using it as a notch for that tube for the heater hose fire wall will that work buddy 🤔
Was the new spool of wire the same diameter? If not. Could be getting caught on the contact tip. Or the drive rolls could be too tight
in class watching this lmao
Reset tension on feed wire is probably thinner or thicker then other manufacturers
Fill up the bushing with window weld to stiffen it up or just buy some eBay derlin plastic bushings .that bushing seems to soft imo but if it works hey ,rock with it .
Do what the drifters do and what im going to do to my r33 and that's cut out the rad support and make up some little plates to bolt it in . It can be done neatly and saves bending the bottem support and or droping the car on the motor
Stoked on the work man! Thoughts on calling it something like a name? Idk, I feel like it needs some kind of defining name....2jZ? TooCrazy? 2CraZy? Idk.
Zupra 😎
Are you planning on running a/c or is there not gonna be enough room?
tell me about it... this nj weather sucks too man ! Killing our 2jz build grind too !
I'm a bit behind and trying to catch up. But as a certified welder..... Hobart wire is crap. Get Lincoln wire and watch your welds improve instantly.
Good stuff homie! You feeling froggy to seam weld the rest of the crossmemba?
First, try installing the steering rack. You've made a stupid mistake covering the holes to put the bolts through. Engine may not clear the rack either. ;)
Second, you've basically solid mounted the engine. Having or not having that bushing installed won't change anything. (Unless you didn't install the metal sleeve going inside the bushing, which seems unthinkable). Really, get these Cusco mounts or install stock, don't cheap out on such things.
Redo these, or get that pan and mounts and call it a day.
Peace
Yes I’ll drill access holes. Rack clears. No sleeve in bushing. Watch the video homie 🤘🏼 works just fine.
Will the rear sump work if you use the z32 trans?
Hey Kalvin how thick was the plate that you've welded initially?
Hey Kalvin...uh...how are you going to bolt the steering rack on? You welded over the access holes for two of the bolts.
Yeah I just realized lmao. I’m going to have to drill new holes.
@@KalvinMalli sorry to be the bearer of bad news lol, look at it this way blocking it then cutting a hole is probably stronger than leaving the gap there!
What kind of ecu will u be running?
Is brad gonna tune this beast?
Is it going to have a manual transmission?
Yes :) 6 speed. Cd009🔥
Yes he has a cd009
Where did you get that led light for the garage?
Hey Kalvin, still haven’t got my poster yet. Did you send all of them out?
Nah man working on sending them out. It’s super time consuming but I did not forget about you!
Kalvins Garage Alright cool!
Beat back the firewall a little bit Incase you ever have to take off your valve covers. Unless your sure it's clear enough
Looks like your going to have issues putting your front bolts into the steering rack brackets.
How so?
Just realized. Lmao you’re so right 😂😂 I gotta drill some access holes
Hey man, whats the deadline?
Reason you had to cut more of the cross member is cus the oil pan needs to be cut and welded aswell. This will not be a strong and good solution. Cutting corners is ALWAYS a bad idea
Eeeehhhhh I do hope that subframe won't bend or snap under some stress... I feel that you've made it just a bit too small.
You just solid mounted the motor to the subframe. The rubber is just wrapped around the metal spacers. The rubber again is doing nothing.
550whp👀??
Could you borrow someone else's engine crane and lift it on both sides at a stronger place, and you can still slide the engine out the bottom
heyy
Getting hooked on this build but I would rather see 2 days worth of video rather than one task and calling it a build episode.
Yes make this happen
Nah im not trying to upload 40 min episodes lol. Thanks for the support pal.
Plus the only way youtube seems to pay its creators is if we upload everyday. Sucks but thats the way it is.
Very true! Good ol youtube algorithm strikes again haha. Either way love the progress day by day! I had been used to MotionAutoTV and his longgg uploads. Sometimes being long was good other times it was distracting and boring, so I guess even that has pros and cons. Keep up the great work we all appreciate the free content!
notification gang
Rear sump doesn't work ask me how I know
still to this day im still waiting for a reply from my man kalvin on ig in the dm :( anyways great video as always my man
Sorry Chief. Very hard to answer everyone’s messages. If you really need to get ahold of me you should send an email. Thanks!!
>> DONT CUT IT !!
* If you need to, cut some of the base of the larger mount piece
not trying to post any negativity but the sub-frame and bushing look a bit sketchy is there no way to reinforce the skinny sub-frame. it just doesn't look like it will support the weight of the engine. these look like they would be a way better alternative to your rear sub-frame mounts www.enjukuracing.com/products/circuit-sports-engine-mount-set-nissan-240sx-ka-sr20.html
It’s quite common to cut the crossmember. So I’m not worried. As mentioned I got the okay from a few of my fab buddies.
U dont need ac..because a racecar
please let me know if you can help me with my car @kalvinsgarage
Email me, lmk what you need done.
+Kalvins Garage where do i find the email?