After cleaning and polishing several aluminium parts and wheels I've found it's not the solvent necessarily but the brass brush is the real winner here. It really does a great job.
I personally have had poor results using purple-power on unfinished caste-aluminum parts. It cleans caked-on oil/grease very well and the parts look nice and clean. I few days later, a white cruddy powdery residue starts appearing on the surface. Looking through various automotive forums, this is a very common experience with Purple-Power. Thorough scrubbing of the part with detergent seems to remove the crud, but it eventually comes back. From what I gather, it has to do with Sodium Hydroxide (the active ingredient in Purple Power) getting into the micro-pores of cast aluminum and causing a reaction.
That's corrosion. When aluminum composites corrode, that's how they do it. Over years that powder becomes deep pitted holes in the surface. Water makes it happen much, much quicker, but because this is an engine part the heat probably prolongs the life of the part, slowing the reaction down considerably by flash drying it with regular use. For another fun chemical experiment, you ought to drop a drop of gallium on it and wait overnight. By the next day you'll be able to fully demolish the part by hand and it'll be made entirely of that powder because of the way gallium bonds with aluminum.
@@michaeljayfawkes2414 Yes, automotive aluminum does corrode in the real world but it is generally accepted to be cosmetic rather than structural on nature. Pure aluminum passivates (ie forms an impermiable oxide layer that protects the metal underneath from further reaction). The white powder (that I've seen forming after using Purple Power) is very different in consistency from the normal corrosion that forms on typical alluminum alloy surfaces. Natural corrosion residue is much harder, forms much slower and is characterized by pitting. I've never had the white powder chemically analyzed but it matches the physical characteristics of Sodium-Aluminate (NaAlO2 or NaAl(OH)4 in hydrated form) very well, a soft white fine powder formed when an aluminum surface comes in contact with sodium hydroxide (the key component in Purple). As bad as gallium is for aluminum I believe mercury is even worse. I remember hearing that it is prohibited to transport mercury on planes.
@@sfdrcm Agreed. LAs Totally Awesome also works quite well, and I haven't had the corrosion issue. The original yellow one, mind you, the orange one messes up aluminum in a matter of 30 minutes.
Thank you for all the help, tips, and wisdom you share. Its nice having someone who is not vulgar and does not ramble off topic. You do a great job making videos. Keep it up good sir.
Here in Wisconsin at the farm store they have whats called power team acid rinse. Its thin pink sprayable liquid. Its a blend of phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid. Are used it on my pontoons and it was amazing! It brighten them up very well but didn’t cause any kind of pitting or etching. It’s only eight bucks a gallon! spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes and rinse it off! I’ll be doing an aluminum canoe next!
sir this purple power also does radiator flush great my truck was overheating with lots of rust and i mixed it with half a gallon of water let my truck idle for 15 minutes.. wow it did the job no overheating anymore i was impressed i didnt have to take radiator off to get it cleaned .. so thumbs up for purple power work amaizin. so it work better than having to buy at an auto store radiator flush when u have it right at home thanks you
I read a study on the top 10 grease and oil cleaners and Purple Power was number 2 behind a $20/gal brand. At less than $5/gal it is my favorite parts cleaner but definitely don't leave aluminum soaking in it for a long time. 5 or 10 minutes and a good scrub will do the trick. Although it does leave a dull gray finish on aluminum, you can polish it up as much as you like afterwords.
That's the same stuff I use! I soak my aluminum parts in a mixture of that and hot water overnight and it literally melts everything off. I would recommend using a paintbrush when rinsing them to help get all the residue off.
Another great video. Thanks Dale! That purple stuff is great. I just used it to clean my block to help me track down and oil leak.....Half of my valve cover bolts were loose! I torqued them all to 85in/lbs and leak is gone! Glad it wasn't my RMS! Its nice to fix an oil leak in 10 minutes! I appreciate the easy ones.
i used DOT3/4 brake fluid on my cylinder head to great result. i ran out, so i have yet to try it on the intake manifold. The head and intake have a oil build-up similar to yours. i'll try this as it may be better environmentally.
Most products like this contain hydroxides. Purple Power has it listed on the material SDS. Aluminum is generally a reactive metal and hydroxide (OH-) can dissolve away the protective aluminum oxide layer. A better alternative would be elbow grease + a biodegradable cleaner like simple green. Highly recommend diluting products like Purple Power and minimizing the amount of time it spends in contact with the surface of the aluminum.
@@strongman86 I don't think a lot of people know or understand that a strong bases (like sodium hydroxide) eat a lot metals just like a strong acid (think hydrochloric acid that you might see at a hardware store). I think there's a misconception that if something is sold in a plastic container, it must be safe for metals. Not that anyone would do this in the automotive world, but bromine reacts with aluminum as well, pretty violently. It's one of my favorite lab demos. @mtsuchemistry
Years ago I had used the Amway Industrial Clean mixed 50/50 with water. I the part soak overnight in it. Took it out the next day rinsed it off. The part was clean as brand new. And, with no scrubbing. It you used it with steel parts, you need to spray it with oil or rust would start on it.
I used a handheld staem cleaner with totally awesome and again with Isopropyl alcohol and it cut my brushing time down by hours because it acts like a mini pressure washer. I recommend 70% isopropyl alcohol because it doesn't burn anything higher may become explosive.
Thanks for your video, I used dawn dish washing soap for the heavy grease and oil with the brushes, then hit it with the purple power cleaner to finish it off.
product called Challenger . used to clean the trucks at work sells at Ace harware, manardes $ 9.00 a gallon. used it for 30 years . leaves film on glass, eats away latex paint. cleans bathtub rings great. cleans tires exellent
Straight PineSol , I use it to clean aluminum Carb parts and what ever will fit in my sonic cleaner. But if you can submerge any part with it and leave it set overnight it works pretty good also.
I’ve been detailing for a while now, and purple power has a lot of people backing it. It’s an all purpose cleaner and degreaser, so it would work well for this. But I’d recommend a European based company called Bilt Hamber and their Surfex HD. It’s really safe but cuts through anything.
I've been using Purple Power on my rebuild.. I soaked aluminum parts in a bin with PP concentrate diluted with water, several days later I noticed barnacle like formation in the water, and on some of the parts.. doesnt look damaging, but I quickly pulled them out and now in the process of shining them up..
Hi, I cleaned all my aluminium parts in my vapor blaster but blasting the grease works well and fast but it makes a huge mess in the blaster housing so recently I started using a handheld blaster (25U$) with soda and preclean the part out in the garden (get good protective glasses) since the baking soda is environmentally safe you can do that in the lawn. Afterwards I blast it in the vapor blaster with glassbeads which brings great results and a smooth surface. Ok, you got to rinse them really well with warm water and dishwashing liquid to get any of the beads out especially out of thread holes that tend to fill up. When dry I use compressed air and go over it once or twice until its has no beads left.
My buddy who has only worked on irons block engines told me to put my aluminum LS block in a purple power bath. Left it in for 2 weeks and when I pulled it out it had eaten at it and the Block was shot. On my second block.... I used a pink aluminum brightener which consists of hydrochloric & Phosphoric acids. Wet surface, spray on, scrub in with soft brush, & let sit for 10 mins and hose off. Rinse and repeat until desired clean. It takes a few times but gradually you’ll get your desired level of clean. If you have smaller alum parts, I use Berryman Chem-dip. Amazing stuff.
4:50 There's something I use as a "first step" (won't get it completely clean, but does as well as this Purple Power stuff); think about what grease is. It's an emulsified oil. An emulsion is any dry material that is mixed with a liquid, but only enough liquid to make it a high viscosity liquid (and not a low viscosity. Basically more of the solid than the liquid). Grease, the kind of grease we're talking about, is solid carbon mixed with liquid hydrocarbons (oil with carbon soot). Now, what cleans up grease really well? Like when you need to repack a wheel bearing and you want to get all the grease (that's been further emulsified with dirt and rocks) out of the bearing? Mineral Spirits.
I just polished my intake manifold with a $20 gravity feed blaster and $25 glass bead 80 grit blast media from harbor freight, and a regular compressor, It looks like new and have left 3/4 of a 25 lbs. Of the blast media.
@@darylvoorhees2629 i did it on my backyard grass., got spreaded and lost on the grass, went to waste but looking how shiny is my intake manifold i think its worth!
A bead blaster works beautifully without the worry of contaminating the metal with unknown acids or detergents. Aviation grade Aluminum polish from Aircraft Spruce will also work.
The white residue is just aluminum oxidation , that just what bare aluminum does over time . This may be considered cheating , but what I do is spray the part down with engine degreaser, then pressure wash it really well , then dry it with compressed air , clean any grease or oil left on with a nylon brush and replete the engine degreaser , pressure wash and dry cycle ,then go over the entire part with scotch brite to scuff it up then paint it with aluminum engine paint . I know this isn’t exactly restoring the aluminum to its original condition , but it keeps the aluminum looking brand new for years and is really easy to keep clean .
Years ago, I took a really gross aluminum intake manifold off a diesel V8 to a motor machine shop and had it cleaned it in a hot tank. The guy left it in there about 40 hours. It looked brand new when I got it back. Another method is to blast it with walnut shell abrasive.
I like to use diesel just soaked my trx case in it and used a tooth brush and got it perfect took a long time but worked just wanted to put my comments in to maybe help
I have use this product called Wurth it is for aluminum wheels and works super, even when the wheel is looking clean it still digs deeper and gets a lot more cleaner, I am amazed at how it cleans wheels so should work on all aluminum stuff
Toluene, its used as a degreaser in aeronautics machining. Aluminum and carbon steel safe. The only down side is the fumes make sure to use it out doors or in a big open space with a fan.
Used to use that stuff at work all the time works great but absolutely do not let it dry or sit too long on aluminum it will bleach it or stain it if left on too long more so if it has a shine to it it will dull the shine
Nitro Force for R/C cars is hands down the best cleaner Ive ever used. Spray that stuff on, and the hardened dirt grease and grime just falls right off.
I use concentrated car wash soap, and a plastic parts brush. Sometimes I have to heat up some water and soak it due life 10 minutes before a clean it. But it gets my parts pretty clean. I use tooth brush for right areas.
At home soda blasting works really well. Either make a diy blaster, or pick one up from harbor freight. Just rinse well with water immediately after blasting.
@@nadronnocojr Look up soda blasting. its not dust like you think. Its been used for a very long time and still one of the best way to clean aluminum parts.
Purple Power's active ingredient (like 99.8% of HD cleaners) is Sodium Hydroxide/lye/NaOH. It is fine on iron or steel, but given enough time or strength it will completely destroy aluminum. It's possible that if you left that timing cover overnight in a pan of Purple Power by morning you would have holes through the metal. Sandblasting with walnut shells is the way to go.
My trick is usually spraying some brake cleaner, letting it sit for about 30 seconds and then hitting it with a pressure washer. Never found any grease stubborn enough with this method. As long as the surface is not painted, the aluminum should be perfectly fine without any etching or discoloration
Yeah having a good pressure washer is an invaluable tool, the one at my shop takes off grease so easily, can make an engine bay with 100k miles look almost brand new in 5 minutes
Maguires hot rims in the red bottle I think it says for chrome rims on it. But I use it on aluminum all the time it’s got a really strong odor that will almost take your breath but it works extremely well on aluminum and I’ve never had any issues.
Spraying aluminum with degreasers kills aluminum. Im second owner of 95 z28 camaro lt1 engine that showcases a beautiful aluminum fuel injection intake manifold that the first owner killed with degreaser. I guess i will give purple power a shot. One thing for sure, nothing dies 2ce. Right?
Hi fella, I read on a Hyundai Getz forum that cream of tartar (tartaric acid) is good for cleaning aluminium castings i.e. my alternator case which is gunked up with grease etc etc, I’m going to give it a go on the weekend, they suggest heating it or boiling it for a few minutes removes build up Greece i’m hoping for a miracle actually, but if that fails I always find the bead blasting is a great cleaning medium regards to all
I use La awesome" orange from the dollar tree, let it soak about 1-2 mins and gently scrub with a soft brush. Hose off. Usually looks good. Also so does a strong mix of warm water and dawn platinum dish soap with a brush. Not sure if either are actually "safe" for aluminum but Its what I have used with good results.
I have used Purple Power for cleaning the topside of my engine and engine bay. Works great. I'm currently restoring a 1961 Chevy C10 truck with massive amounts of caked on dirt with grease on the front suspension. It's all steel of course, but have you found that oven cleaner works best on those parts? Thanks
White spirit works the best as it cleans oil easy and is safe for paint. For cleaning rust run-off and surface rust best is rust converter/naval jelly which contains orthophosphoric acid it is also safe for paint. You can even safely spray both of them directly on parts.
Don’t know if you have tried this but our local Napa parts store has something call Aluminum brightening I know rite but it actually works on any aluminum I have just sprayed it in my engine bay but I made my rims shiny lol
That is truly a transformation…. We are just going through the same process right now, can I ask some questions?: What machine did you used to scrub the floors? Did you applied another coat of clear on top of the epoxy flakes? Thank you.
Back in the day we use to soak all aluminum things (pistons, covers, etc.) in carb cleaner. That was before the EPA got involved and now everything sucks. ZEP industrial cleaner in a boiling tank works good. Have tried the purple stuff too. Once I get the grease/oil gone....I use a sandblaster with 50% silica sand and 50% glass beads to finish it up. Some people blast with walnut shells.
Hi Dale, It's Arjan from the Netherlands again! Just finished my rebuild and the engine is really running smooth!! I'm so happy with it. Thanks a lot for the tutorials. I've really enjoyed watching them. I will still keep watching to see if you are doing things correct! Hahaha.... Regards Arjan
Harbor Freight has Industrial grade baking soda. Use it in place of sand or glass beads in a blasting cabinet. You'd be surprised how it works and it does not eat away any metal, not even aluminum. There are some videos on Soda Blasting. Check them out. I use my soda blast cabinet for most everything.
I have had good success with both Purple Power and Super Clean, however after Purple Power irregularly stained my aluminum engine intake manifold heat shield, I now only use Super Clean.
I just used super clean and if you let it soak for a day or so it really desolves the grease.Or you can use Meguairs chrome wheel cleaner which reacts faster as it will take everything off except some stubborn residue
There is a fantastic product made in South Africa, by a company called Mandlachem, its called NKF, completely safe for any part of a car, it removes baked in brake dust too
FYI zep makes a parts cleaner that specifically states that it is safe for aluminum just look for the bottle that shows car parts on the front of the gallon jug and read the description it says how to mix and that it is safe for aluminum
For car parts, I use Simple Green in various ratios w a toothbrush and the brass brush. Covers 90% of my needs. When this isn’t enough, out comes Purple Power.
Waterway car wash here in Colorado use purple power on everything when I worked there we used it on chrome wheels aluminum wheels steel anything cleaning stains on cars stains in carpet leather all of it
Just watched a video with two crazy Canadians that use a metal trash can, and a small gas burner underneath it, fill with water and Simple Green...that aluminum head came out super clean.
after i discovered this i never looked back. its very pleasing to see it working so effectively that after spraying it a 2nd/3rd time [& initial good soaking round] the force from the jet spray alone is enough to get an 8th in. thick of oily crud cake to just liquify off and drip down to the floor, exposing clean slightly lustrous metal, can imagine how much better the wire brush makes it
A tooth brush and diluted sulphuric acid. Followed up with sanding out imperfections, casting flash ect. Finish with low pressure vapor blasting with fine glass beads.
Chaoz Effect exactly!! People don’t realize the effectiveness of HOT HOT WATER. Throw in some dish soap and a scoop of laundry detergent with a few gallons of hot h2o and pow! . Use a brass brush and it’s new
I have the same thing in Industrial Purple concentrated cleaner I will try. I will look for dilution rates but grease falls off my bolts after soaking over night at a rate of 5 :1. Luckily my intake is fairly new and just 'mildly engine dirty'. I have to clean it because I just had my heads rebuilt and I painted them pretty... A dirty manifold would ruin my rep LOL.......... My Edelbrock Performer isn't polished so I don't see an issue with using a tooth brush and a quick rinse! Thanks for the idea.
After cleaning and polishing several aluminium parts and wheels I've found it's not the solvent necessarily but the brass brush is the real winner here. It really does a great job.
Scotch brite and some elbow grease is also extremely effective
I remember years back....filling our new parts washer with a 5 gallon bucket of Purple power. LOL. It ate the aluminum pump in the tank.
I personally have had poor results using purple-power on unfinished caste-aluminum parts. It cleans caked-on oil/grease very well and the parts look nice and clean. I few days later, a white cruddy powdery residue starts appearing on the surface. Looking through various automotive forums, this is a very common experience with Purple-Power. Thorough scrubbing of the part with detergent seems to remove the crud, but it eventually comes back. From what I gather, it has to do with Sodium Hydroxide (the active ingredient in Purple Power) getting into the micro-pores of cast aluminum and causing a reaction.
Sodium Hydroxide in solution will turn all aluminum black.
That's corrosion. When aluminum composites corrode, that's how they do it. Over years that powder becomes deep pitted holes in the surface. Water makes it happen much, much quicker, but because this is an engine part the heat probably prolongs the life of the part, slowing the reaction down considerably by flash drying it with regular use.
For another fun chemical experiment, you ought to drop a drop of gallium on it and wait overnight. By the next day you'll be able to fully demolish the part by hand and it'll be made entirely of that powder because of the way gallium bonds with aluminum.
@@michaeljayfawkes2414 Yes, automotive aluminum does corrode in the real world but it is generally accepted to be cosmetic rather than structural on nature. Pure aluminum passivates (ie forms an impermiable oxide layer that protects the metal underneath from further reaction).
The white powder (that I've seen forming after using Purple Power) is very different in consistency from the normal corrosion that forms on typical alluminum alloy surfaces. Natural corrosion residue is much harder, forms much slower and is characterized by pitting.
I've never had the white powder chemically analyzed but it matches the physical characteristics of Sodium-Aluminate (NaAlO2 or NaAl(OH)4 in hydrated form) very well, a soft white fine powder formed when an aluminum surface comes in contact with sodium hydroxide (the key component in Purple).
As bad as gallium is for aluminum I believe mercury is even worse. I remember hearing that it is prohibited to transport mercury on planes.
I think the trick is to not let it sit on the part. Spray, scrub, rinse, rinse, rinse.
@@sfdrcm Agreed. LAs Totally Awesome also works quite well, and I haven't had the corrosion issue. The original yellow one, mind you, the orange one messes up aluminum in a matter of 30 minutes.
Purple Power is a godsend.
I discovered that about 3 or 4 years ago and I use it practically every time I open a hood
How long was it on far
Thank you for all the help, tips, and wisdom you share. Its nice having someone who is not vulgar and does not ramble off topic. You do a great job making videos. Keep it up good sir.
Here in Wisconsin at the farm store they have whats called power team acid rinse. Its thin pink sprayable liquid. Its a blend of phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid. Are used it on my pontoons and it was amazing! It brighten them up very well but didn’t cause any kind of pitting or etching. It’s only eight bucks a gallon! spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes and rinse it off! I’ll be doing an aluminum canoe next!
Fleet farm?
@@kylekons3672 yes!
sir this purple power also does radiator flush great my truck was overheating with lots of rust and i mixed it with half a gallon of water let my truck idle for 15 minutes.. wow it did the job no overheating anymore i was impressed i didnt have to take radiator off to get it cleaned .. so thumbs up for purple power work amaizin. so it work better than having to buy at an auto store radiator flush when u have it right at home thanks you
I read a study on the top 10 grease and oil cleaners and Purple Power was number 2 behind a $20/gal brand. At less than $5/gal it is my favorite parts cleaner but definitely don't leave aluminum soaking in it for a long time. 5 or 10 minutes and a good scrub will do the trick. Although it does leave a dull gray finish on aluminum, you can polish it up as much as you like afterwords.
Try using wd40 it will really clean up aluand chrome followed by mother's polish
That's the same stuff I use! I soak my aluminum parts in a mixture of that and hot water overnight and it literally melts everything off. I would recommend using a paintbrush when rinsing them to help get all the residue off.
Another great video. Thanks Dale! That purple stuff is great. I just used it to clean my block to help me track down and oil leak.....Half of my valve cover bolts were loose! I torqued them all to 85in/lbs and leak is gone! Glad it wasn't my RMS! Its nice to fix an oil leak in 10 minutes! I appreciate the easy ones.
Thanks man! Yeah, the easy ones are always nice wins!
Pinesol and hot water.
Works great, just rinse it really well.
Only small splash of pinesol a little goes a long ways.
im glad you found the cover... I was beginning to think this was going to be 6 min of watching you look for it!
i used DOT3/4 brake fluid on my cylinder head to great result. i ran out, so i have yet to try it on the intake manifold. The head and intake have a oil build-up similar to yours. i'll try this as it may be better environmentally.
What can the brake fluid remove? Just oil and grease? Or the deep stained dirt?
Most products like this contain hydroxides. Purple Power has it listed on the material SDS. Aluminum is generally a reactive metal and hydroxide (OH-) can dissolve away the protective aluminum oxide layer. A better alternative would be elbow grease + a biodegradable cleaner like simple green. Highly recommend diluting products like Purple Power and minimizing the amount of time it spends in contact with the surface of the aluminum.
Purple Power cost me a timing cover and ac mounting bracket!! thank you for letting others know about this!!!
@@strongman86 I don't think a lot of people know or understand that a strong bases (like sodium hydroxide) eat a lot metals just like a strong acid (think hydrochloric acid that you might see at a hardware store).
I think there's a misconception that if something is sold in a plastic container, it must be safe for metals.
Not that anyone would do this in the automotive world, but bromine reacts with aluminum as well, pretty violently. It's one of my favorite lab demos. @mtsuchemistry
I always use a rotary wire brush - just lightly, but it takes off all the oxide which is what holds the oil/grease.
A fine brass wire brush is ok but not for gasket surfaces, a large machined flat block of alum and PSA 320 on it does a good job.
Years ago I had used the Amway Industrial Clean mixed 50/50 with water. I the part soak overnight in it. Took it out the next day rinsed it off. The part was clean as brand new. And, with no scrubbing. It you used it with steel parts, you need to spray it with oil or rust would start on it.
I used a handheld staem cleaner with totally awesome and again with Isopropyl alcohol and it cut my brushing time down by hours because it acts like a mini pressure washer. I recommend 70% isopropyl alcohol because it doesn't burn anything higher may become explosive.
Pj1 super cleaner industrial grade. I accidentally discovered this stuff. It works so good.
Aluma- Brite an acid etch cleaner. I recommend that you mask off all machined surfaces.
green antifreeze, warmed up in a crock pot on low setting for 6 - 18 hours, dangerous but many swear by it! ideal on alloy and anodised alloy parts.
Thanks for your video, I used dawn dish washing soap for the heavy grease and oil with the brushes, then hit it with the purple power cleaner to finish it off.
Im using throttle body cleaner and/or wheel cleaner+pressure washer. A garden hose works too if you either have a strong thumb or a adjustable tip.
product called Challenger . used to clean the trucks at work sells at Ace harware, manardes $ 9.00 a gallon. used it for 30 years . leaves film on glass, eats away latex paint. cleans bathtub rings great. cleans tires exellent
Straight PineSol , I use it to clean aluminum Carb parts and what ever will fit in my sonic cleaner. But if you can submerge any part with it and leave it set overnight it works pretty good also.
I’ve been detailing for a while now, and purple power has a lot of people backing it. It’s an all purpose cleaner and degreaser, so it would work well for this. But I’d recommend a European based company called Bilt Hamber and their Surfex HD. It’s really safe but cuts through anything.
I've been using Purple Power on my rebuild.. I soaked aluminum parts in a bin with PP concentrate diluted with water, several days later I noticed barnacle like formation in the water, and on some of the parts.. doesnt look damaging, but I quickly pulled them out and now in the process of shining them up..
This is not meant to be in long time contact with aluminum. Spray, scrub and rinse.
@@sfdrcm Indeed! Lesson learned! Lol
Hi, I cleaned all my aluminium parts in my vapor blaster but blasting the grease works well and fast but it makes a huge mess in the blaster housing so recently I started using a handheld blaster (25U$) with soda and preclean the part out in the garden (get good protective glasses) since the baking soda is environmentally safe you can do that in the lawn. Afterwards I blast it in the vapor blaster with glassbeads which brings great results and a smooth surface.
Ok, you got to rinse them really well with warm water and dishwashing liquid to get any of the beads out especially out of thread holes that tend to fill up. When dry I use compressed air and go over it once or twice until its has no beads left.
I use a circular wire brush on my drill and gunk degreaser. Came out almost polished
That's what I always do aswell. This guys totally wasting his time with housewife products.
Maybe he doesn't have a drill and Wirebrush bit case that's the way to go
Wire brushes chew up aluminum. Nylon, brass, or Roloc would be better.
@@Brees1986 Isn't a wire brush brass tho? Or some are steel.
Nothing beats vapor blast finish!!! Go for Vapor Blast!!
Still got to get it clean first. Otherwise you just contaminated the blast media.
What does that cost compared to a bottle of cleaner?
@@ahole5407depends on the blaster, some filter out contaminants
@@Spiritof_76a lot more😂
My buddy who has only worked on irons block engines told me to put my aluminum LS block in a purple power bath. Left it in for 2 weeks and when I pulled it out it had eaten at it and the Block was shot. On my second block.... I used a pink aluminum brightener which consists of hydrochloric & Phosphoric acids. Wet surface, spray on, scrub in with soft brush, & let sit for 10 mins and hose off. Rinse and repeat until desired clean. It takes a few times but gradually you’ll get your desired level of clean. If you have smaller alum parts, I use Berryman Chem-dip. Amazing stuff.
the chem dip is incredible. nasty stuff so use outside of course but even in freezing temps it literally dissolved oil and grime.
4:50 There's something I use as a "first step" (won't get it completely clean, but does as well as this Purple Power stuff); think about what grease is. It's an emulsified oil. An emulsion is any dry material that is mixed with a liquid, but only enough liquid to make it a high viscosity liquid (and not a low viscosity. Basically more of the solid than the liquid). Grease, the kind of grease we're talking about, is solid carbon mixed with liquid hydrocarbons (oil with carbon soot). Now, what cleans up grease really well? Like when you need to repack a wheel bearing and you want to get all the grease (that's been further emulsified with dirt and rocks) out of the bearing?
Mineral Spirits.
Dry ice cleaning. Factory fresh literally 👍😎🏴
I just polished my intake manifold with a $20 gravity feed blaster and $25 glass bead 80 grit blast media from harbor freight, and a regular compressor, It looks like new and have left 3/4 of a 25 lbs. Of the blast media.
I have a media blaster from Harbor Freight but haven't used it yet. Did you build an enclosure to keep the media from being spread all over? Thanks
@@darylvoorhees2629 i did it on my backyard grass., got spreaded and lost on the grass, went to waste but looking how shiny is my intake manifold i think its worth!
I use Purple Power for my wheels all the time. Bleach White is also great for the white lettering on my tires.
Kerosene mate, with a parts wash brush or toothbrush, gets it clean clean
Or diesel. That's what's in commercial spray cans of engine degreaser
I use wd-40 to clean my cast aluminum motorcycle rims. I'll be painting them this summer. Brass wire wheel+ wd-40 should do the trick!
A bead blaster works beautifully without the worry of contaminating the metal with unknown acids or detergents. Aviation grade Aluminum polish from Aircraft Spruce will also work.
My high school automotive teacher showed me purple power. I'm forever grateful. I love that stuff
Great stuff!
The white residue is just aluminum oxidation , that just what bare aluminum does over time . This may be considered cheating , but what I do is spray the part down with engine degreaser, then pressure wash it really well , then dry it with compressed air , clean any grease or oil left on with a nylon brush and replete the engine degreaser , pressure wash and dry cycle ,then go over the entire part with scotch brite to scuff it up then paint it with aluminum engine paint . I know this isn’t exactly restoring the aluminum to its original condition , but it keeps the aluminum looking brand new for years and is really easy to keep clean .
Years ago, I took a really gross aluminum intake manifold off a diesel V8 to a motor machine shop and had it cleaned it in a hot tank. The guy left it in there about 40 hours. It looked brand new when I got it back. Another method is to blast it with walnut shell abrasive.
I like to use diesel just soaked my trx case in it and used a tooth brush and got it perfect took a long time but worked just wanted to put my comments in to maybe help
I have use this product called Wurth it is for aluminum wheels and works super, even when the wheel is looking clean it still digs deeper and gets a lot more cleaner, I am amazed at how it cleans wheels so should work on all aluminum stuff
Toluene, its used as a degreaser in aeronautics machining. Aluminum and carbon steel safe. The only down side is the fumes make sure to use it out doors or in a big open space with a fan.
Used to use that stuff at work all the time works great but absolutely do not let it dry or sit too long on aluminum it will bleach it or stain it if left on too long more so if it has a shine to it it will dull the shine
been using purple power for 10+ years as a detailer, be careful if it sits on the aluminum too long it can turn it a real dark gray
Nitro Force for R/C cars is hands down the best cleaner Ive ever used. Spray that stuff on, and the hardened dirt grease and grime just falls right off.
is there any European analog for the US purple power?
some paint remover and vinegar+water mix might also work tho
I use simple green...but straight concentrate not diluted. .and a nylon brush ...spray and clean over and over. ..used it for years. ..
Try Aluma Brite. It's made for cast aluminum. It's great.
I use concentrated car wash soap, and a plastic parts brush. Sometimes I have to heat up some water and soak it due life 10 minutes before a clean it. But it gets my parts pretty clean. I use tooth brush for right areas.
NAPA Aluminum brightener works great on caked on stuff
At home soda blasting works really well. Either make a diy blaster, or pick one up from harbor freight. Just rinse well with water immediately after blasting.
Dust in an engine is very bad ...very bad .
@@nadronnocojr Look up soda blasting. its not dust like you think. Its been used for a very long time and still one of the best way to clean aluminum parts.
Purple Power's active ingredient (like 99.8% of HD cleaners) is Sodium Hydroxide/lye/NaOH. It is fine on iron or steel, but given enough time or strength it will completely destroy aluminum. It's possible that if you left that timing cover overnight in a pan of Purple Power by morning you would have holes through the metal. Sandblasting with walnut shells is the way to go.
Super clean is the best i have used you can get it at walmart or most auto part stores
Try ZEP industrial degreaser. I found it works better.
Cool! I'll have to try it
I use that stuff exclusively. It cuts though everything and if it gets on the floor, it just cleans that too.
My trick is usually spraying some brake cleaner, letting it sit for about 30 seconds and then hitting it with a pressure washer. Never found any grease stubborn enough with this method. As long as the surface is not painted, the aluminum should be perfectly fine without any etching or discoloration
Brake cleaner evaporates within minutes, letting it sit is doing nothing
@@tylerseabook9423 I said about 30 seconds. and any solvent needs time to dissolve
Yeah having a good pressure washer is an invaluable tool, the one at my shop takes off grease so easily, can make an engine bay with 100k miles look almost brand new in 5 minutes
Exact same project I have for this weekend after putting a new header on my 4.0. Perfect timing!
Haha. Awesome!
I’ve used pine sol since the ancient times. It smells great, cuts grease and it’s not acidic.
Nothing make old aluminum parts look like new like a media blasting cabinet. Worth every penny if you already have an air compressor.
Super clean works the best for me but gotta be quick to wash it off then follow up with aluminum brightener
Maguires hot rims in the red bottle I think it says for chrome rims on it. But I use it on aluminum all the time it’s got a really strong odor that will almost take your breath but it works extremely well on aluminum and I’ve never had any issues.
LA's Totally Awesome does a good job and will not dull aluminum.
Only use the yellow stuff on aluminum, the orange stuff dulls it.
Spraying aluminum with degreasers kills aluminum.
Im second owner of 95 z28 camaro lt1 engine that showcases a beautiful aluminum fuel injection intake manifold that the first owner killed with degreaser.
I guess i will give purple power a shot. One thing for sure, nothing dies 2ce. Right?
Try an Engine Gasket Remover...is magic for this purpose
Hi fella, I read on a Hyundai Getz forum that cream of tartar (tartaric acid) is good for cleaning aluminium castings i.e. my alternator case which is gunked up with grease etc etc, I’m going to give it a go on the weekend, they suggest heating it or boiling it for a few minutes removes build up Greece i’m hoping for a miracle actually, but if that fails I always find the bead blasting is a great cleaning medium regards to all
I use La awesome" orange from the dollar tree, let it soak about 1-2 mins and gently scrub with a soft brush. Hose off. Usually looks good. Also so does a strong mix of warm water and dawn platinum dish soap with a brush.
Not sure if either are actually "safe" for aluminum but Its what I have used with good results.
"Awesome" uses an advanced surfactant chemistry that is generally pH neutral and safe on most metals.
I have used Purple Power for cleaning the topside of my engine and engine bay. Works great. I'm currently restoring a 1961 Chevy C10 truck with massive amounts of caked on dirt with grease on the front suspension. It's all steel of course, but have you found that oven cleaner works best on those parts? Thanks
White spirit works the best as it cleans oil easy and is safe for paint. For cleaning rust run-off and surface rust best is rust converter/naval jelly which contains orthophosphoric acid it is also safe for paint. You can even safely spray both of them directly on parts.
Don’t know if you have tried this but our local Napa parts store has something call Aluminum brightening I know rite but it actually works on any aluminum I have just sprayed it in my engine bay but I made my rims shiny lol
That is truly a transformation….
We are just going through the same process right now, can I ask some questions?:
What machine did you used to scrub the floors?
Did you applied another coat of clear on top of the epoxy flakes?
Thank you.
Back in the day we use to soak all aluminum things (pistons, covers, etc.) in carb cleaner. That was before the EPA got involved and now everything sucks. ZEP industrial cleaner in a boiling tank works good. Have tried the purple stuff too. Once I get the grease/oil gone....I use a sandblaster with 50% silica sand and 50% glass beads to finish it up. Some people blast with walnut shells.
Nothing beats that purple stuff for degreasing but glass beading is the only way to make cast aluminum look new.
baking soda,vinegar and dishwashing liquid mix ingredients together in a tub or large bucket and start scrubbing...best results ever..!!
Hi Dale, It's Arjan from the Netherlands again! Just finished my rebuild and the engine is really running smooth!! I'm so happy with it. Thanks a lot for the tutorials. I've really enjoyed watching them. I will still keep watching to see if you are doing things correct! Hahaha.... Regards Arjan
Nice! You're a few months ahead of me. My build is slow, but coming along well.
Dry ice detailing works the best ❤
Harbor Freight has Industrial grade baking soda. Use it in place of sand or glass beads in a blasting cabinet. You'd be surprised how it works and it does not eat away any metal, not even aluminum. There are some videos on Soda Blasting. Check them out. I use my soda blast cabinet for most everything.
i mix Simple Green and Dawn dish soap
and it works amazing
I have had good success with both Purple Power and Super Clean, however after Purple Power irregularly stained my aluminum engine intake manifold heat shield, I now only use Super Clean.
Berrymans B12? Seems to melt it, but Purple power is probably cheaper.
I just used super clean and if you let it soak for a day or so it really desolves the grease.Or you can use Meguairs chrome wheel cleaner which reacts faster as it will take everything off except some stubborn residue
There is a fantastic product made in South Africa, by a company called Mandlachem, its called NKF, completely safe for any part of a car, it removes baked in brake dust too
FYI zep makes a parts cleaner that specifically states that it is safe for aluminum just look for the bottle that shows car parts on the front of the gallon jug and read the description it says how to mix and that it is safe for aluminum
mag wheel acid works wonders
For car parts, I use Simple Green in various ratios w a toothbrush and the brass brush. Covers 90% of my needs. When this isn’t enough, out comes Purple Power.
Try some granular laundry soap and hot water in a 5 gallon pail. Im going to try your purple power to compare. Cheers
Should try a pressure washer
BRAKE KLEEN, best stuff….along with that brass bristle brush. Gasoline also works.
Waterway car wash here in Colorado use purple power on everything when I worked there we used it on chrome wheels aluminum wheels steel anything cleaning stains on cars stains in carpet leather all of it
Several types of evap foam would help work too. Its more like enviro friendly type of oven cleaner..
Warm diesel and gas in a sprayer is great
With a easy to clean part like that (as opposed to something with bad crevices), definitely go with RED PRESSURE WASHER TIP 😎 Absolutely harmless
Just watched a video with two crazy Canadians that use a metal trash can, and a small gas burner underneath it, fill with water and Simple Green...that aluminum head came out super clean.
beautiful results - thanks for the great tip!
Eagle on mag wheel etching cleaner was the best ever. Now I cant find it? The bottom of my 08 z06 is better than new! but Now what?
after i discovered this i never looked back.
its very pleasing to see it working so effectively that after spraying it a 2nd/3rd time [& initial good soaking round] the force from the jet spray alone is enough to get an 8th in. thick of oily crud cake to just liquify off and drip down to the floor, exposing clean slightly lustrous metal, can imagine how much better the wire brush makes it
Acid bath them we used to clean intercoolers and radiators here in AUS
A tooth brush and diluted sulphuric acid. Followed up with sanding out imperfections, casting flash ect. Finish with low pressure vapor blasting with fine glass beads.
I use some pink dishwasher soap, hot water and a toothbrush for more simple aluminum chores. Thanks for the great tip!
Chaoz Effect exactly!! People don’t realize the effectiveness of HOT HOT WATER. Throw in some dish soap and a scoop of laundry detergent with a few gallons of hot h2o and pow! . Use a brass brush and it’s new
I use an Aircon Cooling Fins Cleaner with 1:10 ratio for cleaning aluminum engine parts.
Purple power is great! I also like using Pyroil engine degreaser.
I have the same thing in Industrial Purple concentrated cleaner I will try. I will look for dilution rates but grease falls off my bolts after soaking over night at a rate of 5 :1. Luckily my intake is fairly new and just 'mildly engine dirty'. I have to clean it because I just had my heads rebuilt and I painted them pretty... A dirty manifold would ruin my rep LOL.......... My Edelbrock Performer isn't polished so I don't see an issue with using a tooth brush and a quick rinse! Thanks for the idea.