Carnage - Supermang L67 3800 Build - Part-1
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- Опубликовано: 12 май 2021
- It's time to put the Supermang engine back together but in true Carnage fashion the engine wants to fight us.
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Love this. Showing it's truly possibly, if you have the right tools, for anyone to do this in their shed.
Takes me back to 1992 when a friend and I rebuilt the engine in his Datsun 1600. However, not one measurement was taken, did it in the backyard whilst drinking beers, put a cam in it, headers, slapped on a weber carb on it, and just sent it. Indestructible bloody thing. Good times.
So many that’s what she said moments 😂😂😂
Don't abandon it what ever you do. I always see people building barras or motors of the same type, not often do you see a L36 or L67 build. Yeah it won't have as much gains blah blah, but it's not as common. So keep up the good work.
👍 Not common on RUclips but common on the street. Mine's stock as a rock though 🤣
Probably a reason why they're not common..
The reason you don't spend the money on a V6 is because you'll make way more power with an LS for similar money.
Plus the V6 is indestructible when kept stock.
If you hone it enough you might end up with a 7 litre ))
You can tell Scotty is waiting for Kian to say his got enough content so he can crack out the 3/4" rattle gun and finish the job
4.2 turbo Scott give the mang heads what we want . Can't wait to see this thing with the biggest turbo.... 2024 year of the supermang
Thanks Scott, I learnt a lot out of this one. Nice what you need to know, and what you don’t video!
Cool to see the old grocery getter donk torn down to bits and being given a birthday makeover. I remember being surprised the first time I pulled a head off one of those things and saw the bore size compared to the engine. They’re a nuggety little engines 💪. Ps love the Innuendo for the honing 👉👌LOL
Thank you for this video teaches me stuff by watching you do what you do Scotty 🚘
Great stuff very informative..thanks Scotty
The first engine i "built" was an L67 Regal GS. Gen V supercharger, ZZP stage 2 IC kit, 1.9 rockers with LSX rockers, chromoly pushrods and a smaller pulley. Torque for days!
edit. Also had T.O.G.s headers with GSX SLP exhaust and tuned by Overkill motorsports. YOLO!
how did the transmission hold up
Ahhhh I remember rebuilding my v6 back in the day. Snapped the cam one morning on the way to work. Chucked a stage 2 crow cam and chip and double row timing chain at it. 14.9 down the quarter mile. Good times 👍🏻👍🏻
The old Commy donk is coming along nicely Scotty. I’m at a similar stage at the moment with my 179 HP Turbo build. Just getting my crank girdle clearances sorted then I can do my final measurements. Keep up the great work mate 🚗 💨 😄👌
Can’t wait to watch with a beer after work.
Awesome work scotty
Love the old fluffy thx for the info I'm learning a lot mate 👍
Tip
Get a bit of stiff wire and wrap it around the shank of the hone and extend a bit down until it touches the block with the hone at the bottom of the cylinder so it works as a stop guide.
I like it 👍
Learnt a bit there, thanx
I work all day long in a work shop to come hole at watch videos of people working in workshops hahah nothing better then a good ole engine build haha can’t wait for the super mang to be up an running again. An remember Scotty no sending it haha
Thanks mate
Don’t stop. Keep going and teach the v6 who’s boss
Good job, little more tech than just slapping it together, I liked it
Thanks for giving the specs for the main studs, needed them to continue building mine :)
Nice job Scotty just goes to show people how important it is to line bore the mains and resize the rods to gain the correct clearances
Man there are some haters in this ep. Love your work scotty. I'm sure it will be fine. Have heard bad stories about those stroker cranks though. Got a 5sp supermang of my own and and its definitely not as big a hitter as my g8 ssv ute but still so much fun to drive. Cant wait to see the heads go on 👍
Wow Scotty just read all the comments. There are some experts out there. All I wanted to say was, you know you have made the big time, when youtube put 6 lots of adds in your carnage episode . Love your work. Look forward to the next carnage episode.
Thanks mate
Sorry to see you’re having problems, but I’m glad you caught it early, I’ve had 5 of those motors and everyone had a rod knock eventually
I used to do some work experience at the Nissan dealership near me in 2007, and they had the one of the heads off a D40 4.8L V6 Navara it had the largest pistons I've seen in a car engine.
A pain for Scotty but it's good to see a video where there's a problem with clearances. Most engine rebuild videos always seem to go without a hitch. We used plastigauge mostly in the 60's and early 70's on our everyday run of the mill customer cars and never had a problem. For anything a bit more exotic we broke out the dial gauges and micrometers.
Doing well man keep it up
Cheeky bugga loves a bit of “that’s what she said” 😂😂😭
Is it maxx performance dyno you can hear in the background?
Never thought I’d say it but I’m more excited for this series than 13s for $1300!
😁😁😁
Internet Experts are a wonderfully helpful bunch🤣🤣
Yes they are!
Scotty you were spinning the drill 5 RPM too much, you’ve wrecked another block 🤪🤪.
Keep up the great content mate 😁👌🏼
Thanks 👍
Maaaannngg maaaaaaaaaannnnngggg maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnggggggggg
Most important aspect of engine building is doing your hone work.
:-D
Nice pun
I generally use Trans fluid to clean cylinder bores, it helps lift any and all dirt/debris before assembly
I watched the video and saw some of the clearance issues you encountered, those issues generally arise from using upgraded hardware. Upgrading fasteners is a good thing but usually comes with extra some work, due to higher claping force it tends to distort and have bores become out of round. You may need to line bore the mains and hone the rods to remove the distortion. Hope this helps, best of luck in which ever step you take, I'm eager to see your future videos on this build. 🍻 🍻
use wd40 to hone the bores and transmission fluid to clean the bores
Line hone those bores bro. I dunno how u sleep at night with those numbers. Love the channel. Here for every vid.
Very expensive exercise
@@STREETMACHINETV oh man i know. it makes me sad. i feel like i know your position too. get some scotch out on ur bearings hahahaha.
Can’t wait to see this fully built!
Thats what she said..
Feels like it will never happen.
Nice upgrade from the dunny brush ahahaah
I used to live just down the road from the "Buick City" factory in Flint, Michigan, USA where those 3.8l V6 engines were made. Makes me wonder if your Holden engines came from there too.
Hey guys I noticed in the previous video you guys mentioned the price of the 3 prong bore mic set. Should look into a inside mic (tubular or rod type) much more affordable. Being a machinist myself I find them much more accurate than the telescopic gauges as if you pivot it incorrectly you can get a false reading
When the machine shop linish the crank, do they do it to a measurement or just until it cleans up?
Some of us tonight "Honey can I give you a bit of a fhwipp fhwipp?" I seen Scotty do it!
I think you are very sensitive engine builder because you always remember what she said, I don't know if this comes from the Kamasutra of engine building manual , sounds very thoughtful thank you for sharing.
This is why i allways get both mains and rod journals ground . Holden did do some dodgy clearencing back in the day . Must have been a monday or friday engine .
Year of the supermang
Wish I could get Scottie to do mine, she's old and running ruff
You have the bore gauge, meassure if the rods and mains are still round after you torqued the ARPs, thats what a bore gauge is good for.
You probably need to resize rods and mains with the ARPs in mind.
Got a video coming on that
Bit ruff on that hoaning tool 😂😂
That’s what he said 🤣
Tip. After you clean the bores with degreaser or whatever use some ATF on a clean white rag and you'll get even more dirt off. Sounds strange but it works
Thanks for the tip.
Thats strange with the tight clearances. What specs are the old bearings? Maybe thats why there was bearing/crank damage? Or like you said, the ARP studs have altered things.
Maybe check your clearances without bearings, so you have a base figure to get the correct size bearing to suit 20-25thou clearance
Was really waiting for another "that's what she said" when you mentioned the lube was important. Missed opportunity
Wouldn’t running a line hone through the block fix the issue?
😍
Graet work Scotty!! Keep it up mate! Don't let the little set backs get you down, just keep chipping away at it. I know I'm 100% keen to see how it's going to go (as frustrating as it may be for you), I'm keeping all the fingers and toes crossed for a positive result!!
Much appreciated
Looks like you're ready to celebrate already with all that lube you've wasted on that right hand, but that's just what he said 🤫 seriously though you legends, love the vids and have been saving them for my upcoming l67 rebuild...
I ain't a engine builder but maybe try tightening the ARP bolts and studs to holdens specs instead of ARP specs and see if that changes anything. I have heard by putting in main studs the block will require line honing to correct the clearances.
When the thumbnail is Scotty wearin glasses you know shits gonna get serious.
Nah, when Scotty starts swinging that shifter, _THAT'S_ when it gets serious. 😁👍
Yeah unfortunately the fine print is a little hard to read these days
@@STREETMACHINETV you and me both brother...
I wanna see the blown 253 👍
How do you know you have the correct bearings before you've done your clearances?
Also, very cool that you're stroking the other engine. Pretty sure I got run out of town for mentioning the mace kit in an older vid :D
well, you answered my question by having to order in more bearings, haha
Because we'd already sent the crank off for machining, so generally you have a good idea of where it will end up. This one just caught us out.
What did the block say to the ARP fastener? Hey big stud
Toyota Master Technician once told me, “Hone your cylinders with brake cleaner not oil.”
Worked out alright with me, but the car was running in 1 cylinder to start with. 🤣🤣
How much was the work on the crank?
"Thats what she said" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Why didn't you use the dial bore gauge on the mains you will get a more accurate reading than the snap gauge provides
I actually used both but the snap gauge is easier to use and gives an accurate measurement
this is interesting, an Ausie build L67? im from the united states. i have a bonneville SSEi L67
Honest question, do you have to be careful not to scratch the bearings with the measurement tools? Will small scratches mess up the bearings?
The tools leave small marks in the bearing coating but not scratches. You just be careful
Hey mate you need to lock the telescopic gauge up just off centre and then push it over centre to get a true size
This, also for one out that much, could go through and remeasure.
The motor could have been built on a Friday/Monday.
It was remeasured and remeasure with dial bore gauge and came up with the same answer
Roll your snap gauge through mate. Keep one end stationary and roll the other end through, it will depress the gauge to the correct measurement. This should solve your inconsistencies.
That’s the last streetmachine video I watch... 10 pairs of adds in 30 minutes
We don't place the ads, youtube does.
@@STREETMACHINETV yep, and they have made it very clear now - RUclips’s right to monetize: RUclips has the right to monetize all content on the platform and ads may appear on videos from channels not in the RUclips Partner Program.
Micrometers are so sensitive to feel, it might be worth getting the machine shop to do a couple of sample measurements for comparison.
This came on after the mopar Sunday video, and I’m wondering what’s happening with the stroker-mang
That's good question. I'll ring them and check.
Scotty mate you forgot to torque down the arp studs fist, before tightening up the main caps nuts?
You don't torque the studs
line bore the block and get the rods done too needs to be done!
might as well do full rebuild
Speaking of the 253. A mate of mine owned a genuine Red Group 3 VH SS with a high Comp 253 and 4Spd just recently sold it for 50k despite it needed some work to get it roadworthy.
I had a high comp in a Hj sedan. Good little engine.
@@victorbitter583 There is nothing wrong with the 253 at all!
why did he put a 253 in a genuine grp 3?
@@shredBucketheadshred That's how he brought it from the dealer. The 308 was an option on the group 3.
Nah mate. There were 4.2 SS's and 308 SS's but only 308 Group 3 SS's
I understand the struggles with the measurements. At some point you just have to say stuff it and use plasti gauge to measure, it's a lot harder to make mistakes with.
true, but measurements were checked and rechecked off camera with a bunch of different tools and they came up bad every time.
@@STREETMACHINETV I don't doubt that. Keep at it mate, you will sort it out eventually
Hey Scotty, when your timing chain (or belt) snaps and your valves and pistons connect, does it make a loud noise or is it hard to hear?
I wasn't driving but Kian says it went bang and stopped dead
@@STREETMACHINETV Thanks for the reply! I Love your content! It apparently happened to my friends car, so the mechanic says. I was in the passenger seat and it just stopped and didn't make a sound, I just thought that was just a little strange! I'm no mechanic though!
hey mate, just wonderingh why you manually measuyred it up instead of using plastigauge
Because measuring is more precise
Reading the micrometer, do you need to use a micrometer with the vernier bit to give last digit or can you use ones without that last digit.
The last digit helps keep things more accurate
@@STREETMACHINETV yeah I can imagine so too.
Hey scotty, not sure if u were using those internal telescoping gauges right (understand there's always more off camera happenning), but what you want to do with them is, you want to: put them inside the bore at an obvious angle, tighten them to an "intermediate" tension, then "rake" them a little bit over centre... ie. going slightly past "square" in both directions. That should bring them to the smallest point, which should be the actual ID. At that point, angle them again, remove from the bore and snug a bit more. then, do the same thing with them when you setup your mics... they should be able to woble free in the mics, because if you tighten the mic up and the gauge isn't perfectly straight, trig says your mesaurement will be under.
I know it's hard to see on the video but that's essentially what I did
@@STREETMACHINETV no probs, thought that may have been the case
would love to see you just test the theory and try a torque to yield bolt and see if that changes the measurements
Video Monday
there are some 60-degree, all alloy GM V-6s of 3.6L size. You wouldn't want to go-over one of those? 60-degrees would allow more engine-compartment space, and some are North-south, so with an adapter, they'd bolt right up
We have those in later Commodores but they're a bit shit
might seem like super stupid idea, but can you hone/machine the bearings?
You can't machine the bearings but we'll show you what you can do
Scotty with the honing u need faster up an down movements to get the angle of the cross hatching right but it should be ok
Yeah, getting the speed right is hard
Yh it is but I love the build mate I’m so keen to see it go
So basically “this episode Scotty gets pissed off with the piston”
You need to put the 70's porno music in the back ground again. Hahaha
NO! NEVER AGAIN!!! 😂😂
That's the soundtrack for the Val wagon
Theres a v6 vx commodore with 80 thou kms on it at the wreckers near me looks tidy except for it being a banna. Would the engine be able to handle a turbo without blowing it up lol
Im a Toyota guy so got no clue with the aussie engines
Is it a supercharged six?
Wonders why nothing fix and No Carnage Ep ? Scotty to busy make Plus videos LOL
Love you for not prefect instagram or Move magic ! things go wrong they break you get dirty and fix them !!!!!
But why Taxi lucking in the back ground though it was off running 10's with some other RUclipsr lol !!!!
Also waiting on a bunch of stuff that should have been by now.
Hope you double/triple check your clearances assometimes it's a simple misread through your guage etc....
Double and triple checked
How much did you regret putting on the moly by hand, its almost as bad as anti seize
Yeah, it's messy shit, but how else are you going to do it.
@@STREETMACHINETV with nitrile gloves on mate. Hahaha
plasti gauge is what I use to measure bearing clearance. ;)
use some scotch bright to open up the clearances on the rod bearings
Measure ya bearings and buy bearings to suit king bearings are a very consistent brand with the pairing of bearings so they all measure the same thickness as others are a bit more hit n miss
Actually not a fan of King bearings
once you get the stroke and speed right the depth doesn't matter so much......
Mate if 10 thou was taken off the mains, just think how tight she would be then? Maybe get smaller caps bearings, to be safe, just go the same size for the mains and also the journals as well, go at least 25 thousands or 1/4 of a mm extra downsized for all the bearing caps?
Nothing was taken off the mains. Nothing you said makes any sense
Probably should have sent the block and rod with the crank in the first place so that they could of line bored the block and rods so that the correct bearings and clearances could have been achieved in the first go
That a full rebuild and an expensive process
I reckon this engine will last about 2 runs down the quarter. :)
I guess we will see.
I bet them engines were never that accurate straight out of the factory. Run it like that , it will wear in pretty quick 😉 and probably out last the new timing chain
HI JERRY
WHY cant the v6 take as much boast as a BARRA ????? thx Scotty
Plenty of big boosted 3.8s in America. Long before barra was king. Look up grand national Buick. Plenty of 1000hp builds.
The Barra was designed strong by Ford as a turbo optioned engine. The Buick is a really old design, that was never intended to put out huge HP. The AJ Foyt Indy car put out 700+ HP.
What about the Alloytec ??
How come no one is boosting them ??
Can't they handle boost ??
wow who would have thought that buying a completely thrashed Commo that ended up being parked under a tree and parted out because it was thrashed would end up being so much drama lol
This is not that engine...
Nothing from that car is in this video. Future videos yes.