Rb30 is actually a stronger casting with thicker bores and thicker deck than an rb26. Rb26 blocks are known for splitting blocks and ballooning cylinders at high cylinder pressures. Plus the early spool and extra torque of the rb30 makes it well worth it.
If you are referring to what Herman at Platinum has found in his testing, our testing showed the exact opposite. The bottom line is that you should test the block that you plan on building and see how it changes over time. The fact is that Nissan didn't change its alloying mix with any of the RB blocks. Some are harder than others primarily because casting is an inexact science and due to the amount of age strengthening and age hardening that takes place. Cast iron is one of the materials that age hardens over time. When you test a new block of any type against an aged block, you'll find the old block to be harder about 90-percent of the time. It's true that we don't get a lot of RB30 blocks in the States. We've do one RB30 block for every 30 RB26 blocks. As someone else mentioned, the RB30 poses a headache for AWD installations. Installing the block girdle is a significant pain in the ass. The one we installed was revision 27 and had fitment issues like it was an early prototype. In all fairness, this customer wanted to use aluminum rods which I am also not a fan of using which made clearance for those billet bandaids a pain in the ass. We have never seen RB26 blocks split or balloon up to 1,550bhp. It seems to be a major issue in the southern hemisphere for some reason. Maybe because water spins the opposite way when you flush. But in all seriousness, we have been using N1 blocks which do have a thicker deck than standard 05U blocks, a fact that cannot be disputed. However, the significant price increase for N1 blocks has more builders pushing standard blocks. Whichever RB block that you start with, the quality of the machine work and the quality of the tune are going to have more of an effect on performance and reliability than block selection alone.
@@dsport im going off what a different well know engine builder here from Australia has said not from my personal experience but his. My bone stock n/a rb30 single cam is only running 450rwhp with a little boost. But he holds multiple records and has many 1700hp engines which is about 2000hp in the states holding together for full race seasons. He also helped develop the nitto stroker kit. He can build a reliable rb26 but still doesn't hold a candle to the reliability of the rb30. My old boys rb26dett omori cracked a block on 22psi.
@@drewdavis239 check out maatouk racing one of the best here in Australia arguably the world. Many many rb powered records and have seen his race engines as reliable street engines lasting 5 years opened up with plenty of life left in them
Nice vid legends. FYI - RB30 was used in the 4wd configuration here in Australia for a number of years mainly in the Nissan patrol petrol and the same car with a Ford badge called the Maverick. Both had options of a 3.0lt engine and with 4wd as standard but not as common as they used to be. Might be of help to you guys or not if you're looking for a factory style sump with the 4wd clearances. "The more we know"😅 Have fun and keep trooping on with the mighty RB30. Get a forged nitto bottom end into a 30 with any of the twin cam heads (checked for quality) decent set of kelford cams on top you will make more power than a 26. Just look at some of Andrews build vids from motive Garage, so much info for any Nissan or Skyline enthusiasts. And we make them quicker than a lot of places because of necessity and the remoteness of 🇦🇺 comes ingenuity and then some pretty cool rides. Cheers legends 🍻
Is that a CRD sump adaptor, girdle brace? We've got RB30 single cams with over 1000 RWHP running in the 8's in Australia mate. I wouldn't call them idiots.
at the point where he says that. he's responding to a question asking about the RB30 vs the RB26 the power that build is going to have is not part of the conversation. Thanks for playing though.
Excellent info. Thank you. So on a single cylinder motorcycle with alloy barrel and head using a stainless mls gasket. Would copper be the preferred choice of oring and how much protrusion above the barrel mating surface would you recommend? Thanks
I have seen some guys file a miter into the oring ends so they overlap and create a better seal. Do you guys think that's better or just not necessary?
If both end of the wire are squared off and there is a bit of interference, you'll be set. The clamping of the head to the block will force the ends together and eliminate any chance of leakage. You can do a 45-degree if you like, but it's a bit harder to match on both ends and to regulate the amount of interference.
shouldn't this fire ring have a groove in the head also? benefits of brass over SS wire? Which one to use in what application? is a fire ring on aluminum block with aluminum head good?
Interesting video on oringing some great information but i wouldnt go calling anyone an idiot for running a single cam especially when im sure you americans have never even seen one before. theres single cam rb30s running into the 7 second zone in australia and they are a great proven platform for drag racing . yes a 26 head will flow better than a single cam and its technically superior but the single cam works fine too and is far simpler than the twin cam. I believe the 30 block is a better option for a rwd vehicle and 26 is better for awd as it aready has the awd sump and doesnt require the machine work you mentioned
Judging by the length of that block, and the precision work there, when doing the deck would it be worth to suppot the block by its mounts only, instead of laying it flat on the mill table,so that it bends just like it will when in the car? just a thought, maybe not...
Stainless/copper wire is a technology that is over 30 years out of date!! Use a one piece ring or better yet use a C ring and use a blank head gasket that doesn't use fire rings. That easily holds over 350 pounds of boost and well over 4500 hp in a diesel. C rings probably wouldn't work with an aluminum head.
Thanks for the interesting video about pads and rings. But I don’t agree about rb26 and rb30, due to the great experience with these motors. We have two rb26 blocks in a row burst in the middle without the amplification of the alapter in the lower part, which you show on rb30. You are probably comparing 2jz and rb30, yes, jz RS has a bad one, but Rb30 has 85mm piston stroke and not 86 as you say, and rb30 has 152.5mm connecting rod length. If we calculate RS Rb30, we get 1.79, this is the most torquey engine, which is confirmed by our engines with a power of more than 1000 forces, this engine spins much more readily than rb26. And yet, I’ll say about the stock crankshaft rb30, it is the same in strength as rb26, no better and no worse, for years we have had a stock crankshaft rb30 with a power of more than 1000 HP, but it has a limit of 1200 Nm, it no longer holds any stock codenval. I doubt the rb needs that much torque of 140ft lbs, that's a lot, that kind of torque pulls the metal of the block around the stud hole as you can see on your imprint on the fuji paper. I think the guys are well versed О-rings and other motors, but they have little knowledge of rb motors.
Where can I purchase that Fuji paper from ? And if you were to explain how to take the clamping measurements properly again how is the Fuji paper set between the block and head ? Does the Fuji paper sit on top of the headgasket ? Fuji below the headgasket ? Or no headgasket just the Fuji paper ? And then I assume you torque the head down to the block accordingly to the bolts/engine specs at hand correct ? I need to do this for my bmw s50 since I’m leaking coolant only 6months after doing a oem heDgasket with Arp2000 studs though 😩 Shit luck
Something funny doesn't matter the quality of the video , for how much the content and the open mind people to explain keep going like this ,,guis '' is the good way and me I'm here for you
Have you got a video on oil in coolant mods? I am told there is a mod for the RB 26 head that involves. Drilling reaming and sleeving. And likewise a replacement mod for the oil cooler allowing oil into coolant.
Does this cause coolant problem when doing this o-ring job. Specially if you run lower boost and just want to make sore you have your engine ready for higher boost?
Wow these guys clearly have limited experience with RB platform if they think RB26 block is better than a 30, that was a wow moment, and saying the crank is better to 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
@@salvatorehest5516 knows wassup. We aussies have been building the fastest and most powerful rb's since forever And yes the rb30 and rb20 blocks are of harder material.
How much better is the mls and orings compared to a copper-ring gasket? (looks like the original headgasket but with rather thick copper rings in them)
When it is done correctly, the sealing created by the O-ring and MLS will be superior to anything that a gasket of any design will deliver in terms of combustion sealing. You can also add a receiving grove in the cylinder head if a copper head gasket and SS ring is used. This can also provide extreme sealing. The best sealing option is often dependent upon the design of the engine and the cylinder bore spacing and amount of material between cylinders for a sealing ring. Even the design of one MLS gasket using a stopper or folded sealing ring can considerable out perform another MLS with just a bead or embossment.
They can machine an interface groove into the head and then run a slightly bigger wire in the block. The SS wire can be used again depending on the condition after removal of the cylinder head compared to the copper o-ring’s that were previously used and saving the needs of redoing the o-ring. The torque that can be applied to the block o-rings is a better solution because of the rigidity of the block compared to the cylinder head. I run these in my Holden 179 with bigger boost than ever designed haha. 😅✌️
That's a hundred year old myth, that's been proven false. There's even a half hour you tube video about the subject, guy sets up some files in a reciprocating machine one lifts on return one doesn't. I believe this myth was started by a 6th grade shop teacher that wanted to make himself feel important during the 1800's.
It's up to the engine builder and what they are trying to accomplish. Depending on the head gasket, you usually want to go to a location outside of the stopper ring that is located in the gasket. The best way to determine the location is to use Fuji paper and take an impression that shows how the pressure is distributed around the head.
Shows how little you know about rb30s if you don't know how affect that part is. There is gtrs running 6.5 second 1/4 mile passes with that piece I suggest you call some Aussie shops and do some research. It's hardly hard to machine the block for this. It's all simple engine machining that any competent machine shop can do.
Till they go faster than 6.5 @218mph with a terrible 1.13 60ft on a radial tyre, they are not the rb kings. Maatouks holds the record for the world's fastest and quickest rb and they will only go faster
Watching this vid 4yrs later. Great info and hope yall eventually learned there's up to a 5 min delay on questions sometimes. 😆👍👍
Rb30 is actually a stronger casting with thicker bores and thicker deck than an rb26. Rb26 blocks are known for splitting blocks and ballooning cylinders at high cylinder pressures. Plus the early spool and extra torque of the rb30 makes it well worth it.
If you are referring to what Herman at Platinum has found in his testing, our testing showed the exact opposite. The bottom line is that you should test the block that you plan on building and see how it changes over time. The fact is that Nissan didn't change its alloying mix with any of the RB blocks. Some are harder than others primarily because casting is an inexact science and due to the amount of age strengthening and age hardening that takes place. Cast iron is one of the materials that age hardens over time. When you test a new block of any type against an aged block, you'll find the old block to be harder about 90-percent of the time. It's true that we don't get a lot of RB30 blocks in the States. We've do one RB30 block for every 30 RB26 blocks. As someone else mentioned, the RB30 poses a headache for AWD installations. Installing the block girdle is a significant pain in the ass. The one we installed was revision 27 and had fitment issues like it was an early prototype. In all fairness, this customer wanted to use aluminum rods which I am also not a fan of using which made clearance for those billet bandaids a pain in the ass. We have never seen RB26 blocks split or balloon up to 1,550bhp. It seems to be a major issue in the southern hemisphere for some reason. Maybe because water spins the opposite way when you flush. But in all seriousness, we have been using N1 blocks which do have a thicker deck than standard 05U blocks, a fact that cannot be disputed. However, the significant price increase for N1 blocks has more builders pushing standard blocks. Whichever RB block that you start with, the quality of the machine work and the quality of the tune are going to have more of an effect on performance and reliability than block selection alone.
@@dsport im going off what a different well know engine builder here from Australia has said not from my personal experience but his. My bone stock n/a rb30 single cam is only running 450rwhp with a little boost. But he holds multiple records and has many 1700hp engines which is about 2000hp in the states holding together for full race seasons. He also helped develop the nitto stroker kit. He can build a reliable rb26 but still doesn't hold a candle to the reliability of the rb30. My old boys rb26dett omori cracked a block on 22psi.
You said it was revision 17... and may be better by revision 21. Which is it? Makes me have a harder time trusting your opinions.
@@drewdavis239 check out maatouk racing one of the best here in Australia arguably the world. Many many rb powered records and have seen his race engines as reliable street engines lasting 5 years opened up with plenty of life left in them
Nice vid legends. FYI - RB30 was used in the 4wd configuration here in Australia for a number of years mainly in the Nissan patrol petrol and the same car with a Ford badge called the Maverick. Both had options of a 3.0lt engine and with 4wd as standard but not as common as they used to be. Might be of help to you guys or not if you're looking for a factory style sump with the 4wd clearances. "The more we know"😅 Have fun and keep trooping on with the mighty RB30. Get a forged nitto bottom end into a 30 with any of the twin cam heads (checked for quality) decent set of kelford cams on top you will make more power than a 26. Just look at some of Andrews build vids from motive Garage, so much info for any Nissan or Skyline enthusiasts. And we make them quicker than a lot of places because of necessity and the remoteness of 🇦🇺 comes ingenuity and then some pretty cool rides. Cheers legends 🍻
It's the best video on RUclips I've seen so far
Is that a CRD sump adaptor, girdle brace? We've got RB30 single cams with over 1000 RWHP running in the 8's in Australia mate. I wouldn't call them idiots.
Since he states multiple times that they are going for 50-100% more power than what you quoted, you would fit in with that group of idiots.
at the point where he says that. he's responding to a question asking about the RB30 vs the RB26 the power that build is going to have is not part of the conversation. Thanks for playing though.
@@tangles01 playing against the hard of hearing is always entertaining
@@Chilicharger665 Bad troll is bad
tangles01 auscuckery intensifies
Excellent info. Thank you. So on a single cylinder motorcycle with alloy barrel and head using a stainless mls gasket. Would copper be the preferred choice of oring and how much protrusion above the barrel mating surface would you recommend? Thanks
I have seen some guys file a miter into the oring ends so they overlap and create a better seal. Do you guys think that's better or just not necessary?
If both end of the wire are squared off and there is a bit of interference, you'll be set. The clamping of the head to the block will force the ends together and eliminate any chance of leakage. You can do a 45-degree if you like, but it's a bit harder to match on both ends and to regulate the amount of interference.
shouldn't this fire ring have a groove in the head also?
benefits of brass over SS wire? Which one to use in what application?
is a fire ring on aluminum block with aluminum head good?
Interesting video on oringing some great information but i wouldnt go calling anyone an idiot for running a single cam especially when im sure you americans have never even seen one before. theres single cam rb30s running into the 7 second zone in australia and they are a great proven platform for drag racing . yes a 26 head will flow better than a single cam and its technically superior but the single cam works fine too and is far simpler than the twin cam. I believe the 30 block is a better option for a rwd vehicle and 26 is better for awd as it aready has the awd sump and doesnt require the machine work you mentioned
Judging by the length of that block, and the precision work there, when doing the deck would it be worth to suppot the block by its mounts only, instead of laying it flat on the mill table,so that it bends just like it will when in the car? just a thought, maybe not...
Stainless/copper wire is a technology that is over 30 years out of date!! Use a one piece ring or better yet use a C ring and use a blank head gasket that doesn't use fire rings. That easily holds over 350 pounds of boost and well over 4500 hp in a diesel. C rings probably wouldn't work with an aluminum head.
Hi, great content - helped a lot. Can you, please, say which Fuji grade you used? Was it the one for highest pressure (HHS)?
Thanks for the interesting video about pads and rings. But I don’t agree about rb26 and rb30, due to the great experience with these motors. We have two rb26 blocks in a row burst in the middle without the amplification of the alapter in the lower part, which you show on rb30. You are probably comparing 2jz and rb30, yes, jz RS has a bad one, but Rb30 has 85mm piston stroke and not 86 as you say, and rb30 has 152.5mm connecting rod length. If we calculate RS Rb30, we get 1.79, this is the most torquey engine, which is confirmed by our engines with a power of more than 1000 forces, this engine spins much more readily than rb26. And yet, I’ll say about the stock crankshaft rb30, it is the same in strength as rb26, no better and no worse, for years we have had a stock crankshaft rb30 with a power of more than 1000 HP, but it has a limit of 1200 Nm, it no longer holds any stock codenval. I doubt the rb needs that much torque of 140ft lbs, that's a lot, that kind of torque pulls the metal of the block around the stud hole as you can see on your imprint on the fuji paper. I think the guys are well versed О-rings and other motors, but they have little knowledge of rb motors.
So why don’t u like the rb30?
Great info
What’s the best way to remove the firing ring once install
Learn a lot, thanks; you guys are awesome!
Where can I purchase that Fuji paper from ? And if you were to explain how to take the clamping measurements properly again how is the Fuji paper set between the block and head ? Does the Fuji paper sit on top of the headgasket ? Fuji below the headgasket ? Or no headgasket just the Fuji paper ? And then I assume you torque the head down to the block accordingly to the bolts/engine specs at hand correct ?
I need to do this for my bmw s50 since I’m leaking coolant only 6months after doing a oem heDgasket with Arp2000 studs though 😩 Shit luck
Single cam rb30 rubbish? Ya'll never seen melbourne style vl commodores before?
Safety lock wire is a lot cheaper and has other uses other than this. The TIG welding wire he uses is probably more consistent in diameter though.
Something funny doesn't matter the quality of the video , for how much the content and the open mind people to explain keep going like this ,,guis '' is the good way and me I'm here for you
Have you got a video on oil in coolant mods?
I am told there is a mod for the RB 26 head that involves. Drilling reaming and sleeving.
And likewise a replacement mod for the oil cooler allowing oil into coolant.
Watched the video never heard , What’s the difference with stainless and copper o ring , preference with mls gasket ?
Great video.
Does this cause coolant problem when doing this o-ring job. Specially if you run lower boost and just want to make sore you have your engine ready for higher boost?
Just curious, would a round profile groove offer better clamping force?
Nothing like a dirty 30 hemi in VL
Couldn’t you calculate the diameter of the circle and cut/file the wire to that length ?
We have rb30s running mid 6 second passes here in Australia.
They're all billet blocks.
Wow these guys clearly have limited experience with RB platform if they think RB26 block is better than a 30, that was a wow moment, and saying the crank is better to 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Mabe a bit more experience than you just a little bit more
Bigbot Hoee yer clearly not 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
@@salvatorehest5516 clearly they do easiest way to settle this is drag race with both parties
Bigbot Hoee haha I’ve already been faster and made more hp than they have with any RB, remember Aussies are the kings of the RB platform 😉
@@salvatorehest5516 knows wassup. We aussies have been building the fastest and most powerful rb's since forever
And yes the rb30 and rb20 blocks are of harder material.
How much better is the mls and orings compared to a copper-ring gasket? (looks like the original headgasket but with rather thick copper rings in them)
When it is done correctly, the sealing created by the O-ring and MLS will be superior to anything that a gasket of any design will deliver in terms of combustion sealing. You can also add a receiving grove in the cylinder head if a copper head gasket and SS ring is used. This can also provide extreme sealing. The best sealing option is often dependent upon the design of the engine and the cylinder bore spacing and amount of material between cylinders for a sealing ring. Even the design of one MLS gasket using a stopper or folded sealing ring can considerable out perform another MLS with just a bead or embossment.
Could you fit the o ring into the head as its easier to add later??
They can machine an interface groove into the head and then run a slightly bigger wire in the block. The SS wire can be used again depending on the condition after removal of the cylinder head compared to the copper o-ring’s that were previously used and saving the needs of redoing the o-ring. The torque that can be applied to the block o-rings is a better solution because of the rigidity of the block compared to the cylinder head. I run these in my Holden 179 with bigger boost than ever designed haha. 😅✌️
What do you guys call high boost?
PSA don’t use a file like a hacksaw like this guy. They are made to push in one direction only.
That's a hundred year old myth, that's been proven false. There's even a half hour you tube video about the subject, guy sets up some files in a reciprocating machine one lifts on return one doesn't. I believe this myth was started by a 6th grade shop teacher that wanted to make himself feel important during the 1800's.
Why 2jz guys hate o" ringing? Also some 4g63 guys to...
Where do the SS o-ring position on the head gasket? How do you decide the diameter of the o-ring?
It's up to the engine builder and what they are trying to accomplish. Depending on the head gasket, you usually want to go to a location outside of the stopper ring that is located in the gasket. The best way to determine the location is to use Fuji paper and take an impression that shows how the pressure is distributed around the head.
@@dsportwhat pressure range for the Fujifilm?
If you’re going that far just put a fire ring in not an o-ring no gap and deeper
Puerto Rico:
Flag
Arroz con Abichuelas
Cockfighting
High boost
How high are the o-rings above the deck surface after installation?
Watch the whole video, it's there.
10thousandths give or take is what you want
@@southernracing2468 thanks.
Thinner HG = higher compression
Could have anneled that spring steel with a hand torch
RB30 Taxi Engine??? Sorry, you must be thinking about a Barra.
Noooo! 720p
should try piano wire.
Much harder! Copper or soft stainless steel is the choice!
OLÁ. Eu gostaria de opinar mas, sinceramente, Vosso "o ring" é simplesmente "risível". ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf
1500-2000 with a rb30 I don’t think so hahaha they split around 1300
No they don't here in Australia we make way more than 1300hp without splitting blocks.
Shows how little you know about rb30s if you don't know how affect that part is. There is gtrs running 6.5 second 1/4 mile passes with that piece I suggest you call some Aussie shops and do some research. It's hardly hard to machine the block for this. It's all simple engine machining that any competent machine shop can do.
Those are billet blocks doing those times dude🤦🏻♂️
Dubbing DSPORT as the RB kings!
Till they go faster than 6.5 @218mph with a terrible 1.13 60ft on a radial tyre, they are not the rb kings. Maatouks holds the record for the world's fastest and quickest rb and they will only go faster
way a not more big The O-Ring
U guys should just focas on taking pictures and selling hat's 🤤
If we did that there wouldn't be any quick RB-powered GT-Rs in the States. LOL .
Nitto hg is the best on the market
Awesome content