Hi, my wastegate is shut closed tight. The actuator is not holding pressure causing the wastegate flapper to be stucked closed. But I don't know why I am getting a P0299 underboost code. If wastegate is stucked closed shouldn't i be having overboost ? The car runs but has no power slow acceleration. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Thank you! I have a 2016 ford fusion 2.0 with 123k miles (yes I drive a lot) and I've noticed that rattle only during the initial cold start and on 1 and 2 gear on the deceleration not acceleration....
And do try adjusting the wastegate actuator I bought myself six months with that which means I get work on it now in the winter in the desert in Phoenix Arizona rather than the hot summer. And while I had the rattle I got anywhere between 8 or 9 PSI and 12 PSI everyone kept telling me it was supposed to be 17 PSI I did put a boost gauge on mine I can't believe they don't come with a boost gauge from the factory If you want to do a boost gauge the easiest way I found is get a decent boost gauge first of all don't get a crappy one And I'd recommend getting one with a solenoid reader soon enough to run the vacuum gauge all the way into the cabin and then they have a cheap $25 throttle body spacer you can get on eBay It does nothing for performance but it's got a bunch of ports on it and you connect your boost gauge to one of those ports and I used the fuse box in the engine bay on the driver side in the first row the row closest to the grill the fuse spot all the way to the right so it's five fuses going from left to right I believe basically the front right corner fuse I think it's like 15 amps and I just used one of those add a fuse things from AutoZone And because I didn't want mine to be permanent I just ran the wire through the door I couldn't find a good grommet and I was feeling lazy and then I just wired it behind the gauges those just pop out pretty easy and ran the wire through there and it just sits without any mounting bracket I would put a picture in the comments if I could but it's pretty easy I think the gauge I got was like 40 bucks and then the throttle body spacer was 25 and then probably another five for the wiring and add a fuse. If you go to the escape forums you can probably find the post where I showed it.
This weekend I'm going to have a look at an ST wagon. My question, are there any known issues with this block? Or other type of related problems? Thank you!
I can't say, as I'm not a mechanic and the '17 Edge has a slightly different motor than the '13 (twin turbos on the 2017), but I would guess a few possibilities: stuck waste gate or actuator, bad actuator, or a bad sensor. Does performance seem to be an issue at all?
Will the later model turbo not mate to the early model cat? Reason I ask is I just changed the turbo on my wife’s 2012 2.0 ecoboost and I did not know about the difference in flange size. It seemed like it mated up well and the clamp tightened down good with no sign of exhaust leak that I can tell.
@@lutheranpriest Have you ever seen a new/reman turbo that put out too much boost? I replaced the one on my wife’s 2.0l ecoboost with a reman Mahle turbo and I keep getting a P0234 turbo overboost code and it’s bypassing the turbo. I have changed almost every sensor/solenoid (MAP sensor, turbocharger boost solenoid, and the boost valve solenoid) that has anything to do with the turbo accept the boost pressure sensor (one on the cold side pipe next to the cac). When I watch all the PID’s it seems like it it working fine. I have even changed out the wastegate actuator and adjusted it a few times. It does fine on backroads but when she drives the interstate and has to keep speed going up hills is when it normally does it. Do you have any suggestions as to what it could be or what I should check?
I honestly couldn't tell you. I'm not a mechanic, just a guy who fixes his own vehicles. This is on a vehicle sold in the US, so I am would imagine the engine is a US built engine.
Just want to let you know cuz I'm going through this myself with my 2.0 escape You can't get just the turbine housing off after it's gone through so many heat cycles I have my turbo off and I still can't get it off It's sealed on there so hard cuz that's what I was going to do and yeah I'm looking at my turbo right now and I busted out my $25,000 feeler gauge and it's about quadruple that if not more for the flapper valve and yeah my on the armature that goes to the rod yeah mine got kind of oblonged as well and I measured I think 6 mm of movement and on mine the rod that goes through the housing from the arm to the flapper valve is loose as well I will be trying to take mine to a machine shop although so far in all of the Phoenix metroplex I've only found one shop that would even look at it to see if they could do it to try and put in some bushings but it looks like to fix the flapper valve if you could get it on a press you might be able to press all those parts out and probably have to grind off the you know there's like a flattened part at the top that looks like was smashed to keep it on you probably have to ground that off to get the parts off but I'm willing to do that because otherwise the turbos garbage and I got to buy a new one anyways I'll try to remember to post on here how that went
Hi, thanks for posting this. I bought a 14 fusion and there's an audible rattle in the engine that I could not locate. Now I have p0299. This video exposed this rattle. Could this, in fact, be the rattle I'm hearing?
Most likely. How many miles on the engine? If I had to do it all over again, I would adjust the wastegate linkage and try to get as many miles out of the old turbo as I could.
@@isjackdull4349 there's two stop nuts on the wastegate linkage. You would need a vacuum pump to fully actuate the linkage, then adjust the nuts until the wastegate is closed. You might want to do this with the cat disconnected, and use an inspection camera or mirror to be able to visually confirm that the wastegate is closed.
@@isjackdull4349 and I'm sure this is absolutely infuriating with only 84,000 miles on it. That's how many miles my Edge had on it when I purchased it, and little did I know when I bought it that it had a bad turbo. So I definitely know how frustrating this is.
@@isjackdull4349 and if you aren't in a hurry, I need to replace the upstream O2 sensor, and I think I'll make a video while I'm at it to show how to adjust it to take out the slack.
just want to give you an update I got the turbo out of my all-wheel drive escape and I was able to get it out of the top without moving the engine You don't have to go through the bottom and take off the PTU also I am just now leaving the machine shop and basically they can't put bushings in or fix the actuator rods or replace them without cutting into it and they're experiences that you have about a 1/3 chance that those welds are probably going to crack and then there was some other issues I don't want to put it down here because I don't think I'll say it right But basically I think it was parts geek has a new turbo for $481 he said he would probably quote me about $350 for the job but it could be more or less and so the the risk isn't worth saving that $130 so until someone starts selling just the turbine housing unfortunately it does seem like the best option is just to replace the whole turbo hopefully you can buy it from some other place instead of forwarding up a $1,200
Just got my 2013 ford explorer turbo fixed and now im hearing the rattling sound i think it may failed again i think its the wastegate solenoid that may messed up the new turbo i just put in ima have to check that out again
@@plxyboilx04 very doubtful when I got my new turbo the linkage was much better it takes a long time those are metal parts it takes a long time and a lot of cycles for them to wear out I know that some of the EcoBoost engines we're having some timing chain or VCT issues that also made a rattling sound when is the rattling sound what details can you give whenever I had my V6 mustang that was supposed to be a rattling from the valve buckets but I never experienced that and I never knew anyone that did but these use that same technology
So if you want to check if it's the linkage you're going to have to just go behind the engine there's two bolts that connect the diaphragm rod to the wastegate linkage wait for your engine to cool off it'll be too hot and just take off one of the nuts cuz it has to be loose and then you can feel if the linkage is loose I hate to say it but what mechanic did you take it to what if they just put the same s***** turbo right back on and charged you but I wouldn't even think that until you check the linkage because that would be beyond bull crap and if you have pictures of the turbo you could probably prove it another thing is you might check the exhaust piping if they didn't tighten it down right cuz I know I had mine on and off a few times and it's a pain getting those exhaust pipes to line up right and tighten down right
Also you're going to have one of these EcoBoost engines and I would spend 100 bucks put in a boost gauge it's so helpful for diagnostics those 2.0 should be making 15 psi when you put it to the floor and it shouldn't cost $100 even there's no good port on the manifold for your gauge so what I recommend is getting a cheap throttle body spacer off eBay like I did they're like 20 bucks the one that I got has like eight ports although you only need one and then I think I got the glow shift electronic boost gauge just cuz I like to read my gauges and digital I've had them on a bunch of cars never had problems with them even though they're cheap and then I could even give you the fuse that I used it's an unused fuse it's like the farthest to the front driver side if I remember right in the fuse box and that's where I tied in my boost gauge if you want to run an electric one it's really easy anyone can do it I could even show you how I put the gauge on my dash so you don't have to drill or anything and you can just take it off when you sell the car
I kept the old turbo i know the new prt was in the car because when i drove my car with the new turbo it was alot better i got good boost there was no rattling but then 2 days later i heard it again and i thought the turbo messed up again or something but when i checked the car it said the car needs a wastegate solenoid and a catalytic converter
Dose this affect gas mileage as well I’m getting shit mileage and when I let of the gas around 40 or rev it up and the motor slowes there is a weird rattle
I only noticed the rattle on deceleration when you let off the gas It didn't seem to affect my mileage that much but I still had boost most of the time it just wasn't as much I only had a very short period where I had absolutely no boost and it was such a short period that I don't think it affected gas mileage I ever did about 25-26 with probably 70% highway
Please do a video taking turbo off especially with awd I just can't reach some bolts or can't get leverage to take some off. Also the heat shield bolts on exhaust manifold stripped on me right away sucks so bad could be a not too bad job if ford had thought about people working on these cars really easily but of course didnt
I wish I could do that for you, but I don't have an AWD vehicle, and I installed the new turbo a year ago. There is a few videos out there that show the removal on an Explorer. It's a nearly identical setup. Yes, some of the bolts are a monster to get at. You might need some specialty tools to do the job yourself.
@@lutheranpriest yeah I saw the explorer one there was enough differences and I got all the way to the turbo problem was there's just no way to get the turbo out without taking off the transfer case I was just going to take off the turbine housing but it's on there So stuck I couldn't get it off so I'm just going to do a little Jimmy riggin I'm going to use a spring inside the pivot point to take the slop out and hope that the seat of the valve inside for the wastegate isn't jacked and I'll just have to hope that that last long enough till I can figure out a way to get the turbine housing off by itself Thanks for the reply appreciate videos
@@sock979 the best thing you can do would be to adjust the wastegate linkage. You'll need a manual vacuum pump, they're around $20 on eBay, or your local parts store might loan them out. Put the vacuum pump on the wastegate vacuum can, pump it up, then adjust the linkage until there's no play between the gate and port. You should have enough clearance to visually check that it's adjusted enough to close the wastegate if you unbolt the catalytic converter and remove the two bolts that keep the convertor in place. Just be sure not to overtighten the linkage.
@@lutheranpriest hey any chance you still have the old turbo can you see how hard it is to take that pin out of the arm I was thinking about trying to do something while I still have the car on or the turbo on the car because as best I can tell the actual seat of the wastegate isn't bad It's just the slop in the arm that's my problem right now So I wanted to see if there's any way to get that pin out and replace it while it's still on there if that's super hard you need a press or what
@@sock979 sorry, I don't have the old turbo, it was returned for the core deposit. In my opinion, the best temp fix is to adjust the linkage. You'd still have slop in the wastegate, but if you adjusted the linkage until the wastegate plug would fully close, you'd probably get the amount of needed boost to eliminate the problem as far as the sensors and ECM are concerned. My theory is that Borg Warner used too soft of a metal when manufacturing the earlier turbos. On mine, the armature that connects the wastegate to the rod was worn quite bad, and the difference between the plug on the old and the plug on the new was quite significant. Even though the engine only had 95k miles on it, you would have thought it was 250k plus just by looking at the turbo.
I have a question. So we own a 2012 Ford Edge with the ecoboost. It doesn't have any wastegate rattle but it has a P0299 code. The vehicle has 218k miles on it. Runs and drives great but doesn't have much power. Normally when you take off the airbox, you get a lot of turbo noise. Ours has very little turbo noise. Do you think the wastegate actuator could be bad? Or maybe the boost sensor? It's had this issue for the past 30k-40k miles. Any tips?
Hey, Austin. I'll preface this by saying that I'm not a mechanic, just a guy who's done most of his own car repairs as long as I've been driving. I'm assuming that you have the 2.0L. If you have the 3.5L V6, some of the information below might be different, specifically with the vacuum control solenoids. With 218k miles on the engine, if it's the original turbocharger, I wouldn't be surprised if that's the culprit. But, since it's an expensive repair, I'm sure you'll want to make sure it's the turbo that's failed. The first thing I would test is the actuator, using a hand held vacuum pump. If you don't have one, they're fairly inexpensive. With the tubing of the pump on the vacuum can for the actuator, with vacuum pressure applied, you should see two things happen. 1) the actuator rod should pull in towards the vacuum can without returning until vacuum pressure is released, and 2) with the actuator fully engaging the wastegate, you should feel no slack on the linkage for the wastegate. If you have noticeable slack on the linkage, the wastegate linkage is shot. At this time, there isn't a parts kit to swap out the wastegate. I did some shopping around, and there was a turbo repair shop that would rebuild the wastegate for a reasonable fee. The two shops I heard back from are Timsturbos.com and ctiturbo.com. It would be possible to remove just the exhaust side of the turbo, so you wouldn't have to deal with removing it from the engine. Of course, at 218k miles, it might just be best to replace the turbo, since there's no way of knowing how much longer the turbo is going to last. If there is no slack in the linkage, but the actuator rod doesn't keep the actuator always engaged under vacuum pressure, the actuator can is bad. Unfortunately, there isn't a Ford specific actuator available, but if you do an eBay search for K03 wastegate actuator, there are some that would likely work. (The turbo is a Borg Warner K03.) I would just make sure the length of the rod, especially the threaded part, is as close as possible. Just a quick note on the wastegate: if it's shot and you don't plan on keeping the vehicle for much longer, with the actuator engaged using the hand vacuum pump, you can adjust the linkage so that there's no more slack. This will get a couple thousand more miles out of the turbo without a loss of performance. Moving on, if the actuator and wastegate test fine, it's time to check if vacuum is getting to the vacuum can. The easiest way to test this will require the help of an assistant. With the vehicle on a lift or ramps, start the engine and while observing the turbo from below, the actuator should engage when revving the engine. If that tests fine, great. If not, there are two solenoids that control the vacuum line to the actuator. One solenoid/sensor is located just to the right side of the turbo. The other control solenoid is located on top of the engine, just forward of the plug coils. I won't go into the details of testing these, but there is plenty of information available for testing vacuum solenoids. I would suspect the vacuum lines to be faulty before the solenoids would fail. Some of the lines are rubber vacuum tubing, some rigid line. Do a thorough visual inspection of all the lines from the solenoid on the top of the engine, all the way down to the other control solenoid, as well as the lines to the three ports on the turbo. I also read of a case where someone found a defective electrical connector for the sensor/solenoid that's located to the right of the turbo. A visual inspection should be all that's needed to determine if either of the electrical connectors for the solenoids are defective. I wouldn't know where to start if those need to be replaced, but there might be replacement pigtails available that would require being soldered to the correct wires. Worst case scenario might require scouring junk yards to find a vehicle that you could scavenge the wiring from. If by this point you still haven't found anything that would prevent the turbo from properly functioning, there are only four more things to check: the intake tube that runs from the air filter box to the turbo, the outlet tube that runs from the turbo to the intercooler, the intercooler itself, and the tube that connects the intercooler to the intake manifold. Any cracks in any of the tubes or the intercooler can cause the P0299 underboost condition code. I can't think of anything else in the turbo/intake system that could possibly cause the turbo to provide adequate boost. The only other thing I can think of is if the bearing in the turbo cartridge is seized and the impeller isn't turning. You could check for this yourself by removing the exhaust side of the turbo, or if you were to disconnect the catalytic convertor, and if there's enough clearance, you might be able to get a screwdriver in through the wastegate port and see if you can manually turn the impeller. If you end up having to replace the turbo and plan on doing the work yourself, I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. Having read numerous reviews of the cheap eBay and Amazon turbos that are available and their high failure rate, I would definitely recommend sticking with the genuine Ford part. If you order from the link provided in the video description, it's $657 plus shipping and core charge, which isn't a whole lot more than the aftermarket/no name turbos available. Before you remove the old turbo, be sure to check if the flange depth on the existing and replacement turbos is identical, and be sure to get all the proper seals: 3 water jacket seals, 4 copper washer oil seals, in line oil filter, 2 oil return gaskets, flange gasket, and catalytic convertor/exhaust gasket. Nothing sucks like starting the project and not having all the parts. Also, this turbo model has both cooling and oil lines, so you'll need to drain your cooling system. Good luck to you, and I hope you're successful in diagnosing the problem.
Great type up! Thank you so much! I've found low mileage Escape turbos for $150 shipped. Looks to be the same set up. We will probably go used route. How hard is the job? I'll pull the cat off and check the turbine. Is that difficult to do? We are Saab techs but my brother bought this Edge when it was traded into our ex employer. We got it for 2200 out the door. It came in with 199k miles and we planned to send it to auction due to a ”failing transmission.” It was a steal! The transmission failure? A 36$ cooler line. It rusted and lost a good amount of tranny fluid. Replaced that line and added fluid. Shifts smooth as butter!! Current codes are P0299 and P0171 or P0420. I can't remember which one it was. One of those codes was caused by a bad upstream oxygen sensor (I think it was the P0420 code, it went away after we replaced the sensor.) It's pushing 218k miles and it's honestly been an awesome vehicle. Last owner drove about 80 miles each way for work. She put 4k-6k miles a month on it. When we bought it, we replaced the cooler line, oxygen sensor, spark plugs, cabin filter, engine filter, oil change, coolant flush, tinted it 5% all around, replaced the Firestone tires that were on it for used Michelins (90% tread. $242 for all four!) My brother and I installed them ourselves. First time replacing tires and unfortunately broke two TPMS sensors. Brother bought a Sync 3 system for it and the Sony sound system. It has all the Sony speakers and Sony faceplate. Pano roof still works perfectly. It's been a great vacation car! He bought it May of 18. It's been to Florida, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Kansas City, MO. We put 17k miles on it in about 7 months. It's been parked for the past few months. But it's going to be put into daily status soon. We are a Saab and Ford family for life! Just gotta save as many Saabs as possible! We have had somewhere around 25 Saab vehicles! I'll keep you posted on the Edge! Hopefully will get the turbo issue fixed soon! Thank you for making the video and for the quick response!
@@austin8607 being that you're a Saab tech, this will go a long way in making this an easier task. I won't sugar coat it, it's not a fun task to swap out the turbo. The toughest part of it is getting the oil supply line back on. Those little copper washer seals are a pain when you're working in such a tight space. Pulling the cat off is very easy. There's one bolt on a band clamp that holds the cat pipe onto the turbo, and two bolts that hold the cat to the frame. Once it's disconnected, because there's a flex pipe on the exhaust system, there should be enough clearance to move the cat out of the way and also check for any slop in the wastegate assembly. Here's what might be considered some bad news: I'm fairly confident in saying that the Escape turbo isn't interchangeable with the Edge, as the part numbers are different. Here's the link for the 2013 Escape 2.0 turbo (PN CJ5Z-6K682-F. If you check under Vehicle Fitment, there's no mention of that turbo being compatible with the Edge: bit.ly/2mr3d0g Compare that to the 2012 Edge 2.0 turbo (PN CB5Z-6K682-H). Under Vehicle Fitment, this turbo was only used with the 2012 and early 2013 Edge 2.0, and in the 2012 Explorer. bit.ly/2liZeCX Even though the Vehicle Fitment shows that part working with the 2012-2015 Explorer, the 2013-2015 Explorer has a different part # that uses the deeper exhaust flange. I found that out the hard way, after getting the new turbo all bolted in, only to have the cat not mate with the turbo because I had the wrong dang turbo with a different flange size than what was required for my application. Sadly, Ford engineers in their infinite wisdom couldn't be bothered with using the same turbo for all 2.0 applications. Unless everything is 100% dimensionally identical, there's a good chance it isn't going to fit. After what I went through ending up with the wrong turbo the first time around, whatever turbo you replace it with, make sure it has the same part number, in the case of the 2012 2.0L Edge, CB5Z-6K682-H. Just a quick note, after I realized that I had the wrong turbo, I called the parts department that I had purchased the turbo through. They were able to look up the part number that was on the id tag on the original turbo, and give me a superseded part number. If you come across a replacement turbo that has a slightly different part number on the id tag than the part number specified, you can call your local Ford parts department, and they should be able to tell you if that is one of the correct part numbers for your application.
Hey! Are these part numbers correct? These are the gaskets. There are three? Turbocharger Gasket CJ5Z-9448-A Turbocharger Oil Return Gasket CJ5Z-6N652-A Turbocharger Water Inlet Gasket (2?) AG9Z-9P431-A Do I need two water inlet gaskets? Diagram shows two but I'm not sure
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Hi, my wastegate is shut closed tight. The actuator is not holding pressure causing the wastegate flapper to be stucked closed. But I don't know why I am getting a P0299 underboost code. If wastegate is stucked closed shouldn't i be having overboost ? The car runs but has no power slow acceleration. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Thank you! I have a 2016 ford fusion 2.0 with 123k miles (yes I drive a lot) and I've noticed that rattle only during the initial cold start and on 1 and 2 gear on the deceleration not acceleration....
And do try adjusting the wastegate actuator I bought myself six months with that which means I get work on it now in the winter in the desert in Phoenix Arizona rather than the hot summer. And while I had the rattle I got anywhere between 8 or 9 PSI and 12 PSI everyone kept telling me it was supposed to be 17 PSI I did put a boost gauge on mine I can't believe they don't come with a boost gauge from the factory If you want to do a boost gauge the easiest way I found is get a decent boost gauge first of all don't get a crappy one And I'd recommend getting one with a solenoid reader soon enough to run the vacuum gauge all the way into the cabin and then they have a cheap $25 throttle body spacer you can get on eBay It does nothing for performance but it's got a bunch of ports on it and you connect your boost gauge to one of those ports and I used the fuse box in the engine bay on the driver side in the first row the row closest to the grill the fuse spot all the way to the right so it's five fuses going from left to right I believe basically the front right corner fuse I think it's like 15 amps and I just used one of those add a fuse things from AutoZone And because I didn't want mine to be permanent I just ran the wire through the door I couldn't find a good grommet and I was feeling lazy and then I just wired it behind the gauges those just pop out pretty easy and ran the wire through there and it just sits without any mounting bracket I would put a picture in the comments if I could but it's pretty easy I think the gauge I got was like 40 bucks and then the throttle body spacer was 25 and then probably another five for the wiring and add a fuse. If you go to the escape forums you can probably find the post where I showed it.
2016 2.0t escape 194k miles p0299 code popped up this morning she’s been solid but time to sell her
awesome video
This weekend I'm going to have a look at an ST wagon. My question, are there any known issues with this block? Or other type of related problems?
Thank you!
What kind of sound that bad wastegate valve makes when the motor is idling?
I have a 17 ford edge with the ecoboost showing a code saying wastegate pressure higher than expected. What could be the issue
I can't say, as I'm not a mechanic and the '17 Edge has a slightly different motor than the '13 (twin turbos on the 2017), but I would guess a few possibilities: stuck waste gate or actuator, bad actuator, or a bad sensor. Does performance seem to be an issue at all?
Will the later model turbo not mate to the early model cat?
Reason I ask is I just changed the turbo on my wife’s 2012 2.0 ecoboost and I did not know about the difference in flange size. It seemed like it mated up well and the clamp tightened down good with no sign of exhaust leak that I can tell.
Yes, it should work fine. The only difference between the two parts is the flange depth.
@@lutheranpriest gotcha. Thanks!
@@lutheranpriest Have you ever seen a new/reman turbo that put out too much boost? I replaced the one on my wife’s 2.0l ecoboost with a reman Mahle turbo and I keep getting a P0234 turbo overboost code and it’s bypassing the turbo. I have changed almost every sensor/solenoid (MAP sensor, turbocharger boost solenoid, and the boost valve solenoid) that has anything to do with the turbo accept the boost pressure sensor (one on the cold side pipe next to the cac). When I watch all the PID’s it seems like it it working fine. I have even changed out the wastegate actuator and adjusted it a few times. It does fine on backroads but when she drives the interstate and has to keep speed going up hills is when it normally does it. Do you have any suggestions as to what it could be or what I should check?
question on this 2.0 engine is cleveland engine or the vel( spanish ) enging?
I honestly couldn't tell you. I'm not a mechanic, just a guy who fixes his own vehicles. This is on a vehicle sold in the US, so I am would imagine the engine is a US built engine.
Just want to let you know cuz I'm going through this myself with my 2.0 escape You can't get just the turbine housing off after it's gone through so many heat cycles I have my turbo off and I still can't get it off It's sealed on there so hard cuz that's what I was going to do and yeah I'm looking at my turbo right now and I busted out my $25,000 feeler gauge and it's about quadruple that if not more for the flapper valve and yeah my on the armature that goes to the rod yeah mine got kind of oblonged as well and I measured I think 6 mm of movement and on mine the rod that goes through the housing from the arm to the flapper valve is loose as well I will be trying to take mine to a machine shop although so far in all of the Phoenix metroplex I've only found one shop that would even look at it to see if they could do it to try and put in some bushings but it looks like to fix the flapper valve if you could get it on a press you might be able to press all those parts out and probably have to grind off the you know there's like a flattened part at the top that looks like was smashed to keep it on you probably have to ground that off to get the parts off but I'm willing to do that because otherwise the turbos garbage and I got to buy a new one anyways I'll try to remember to post on here how that went
Where did you purchase the turbo charger?
From my local Ford dealer. But they price matched from this dealer, which has very good prices l:
parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/
Hi, thanks for posting this. I bought a 14 fusion and there's an audible rattle in the engine that I could not locate. Now I have p0299. This video exposed this rattle. Could this, in fact, be the rattle I'm hearing?
Most likely. How many miles on the engine? If I had to do it all over again, I would adjust the wastegate linkage and try to get as many miles out of the old turbo as I could.
@@lutheranpriest it's got 84000 on it. How can this be adjusted?
@@isjackdull4349 there's two stop nuts on the wastegate linkage. You would need a vacuum pump to fully actuate the linkage, then adjust the nuts until the wastegate is closed. You might want to do this with the cat disconnected, and use an inspection camera or mirror to be able to visually confirm that the wastegate is closed.
@@isjackdull4349 and I'm sure this is absolutely infuriating with only 84,000 miles on it. That's how many miles my Edge had on it when I purchased it, and little did I know when I bought it that it had a bad turbo. So I definitely know how frustrating this is.
@@isjackdull4349 and if you aren't in a hurry, I need to replace the upstream O2 sensor, and I think I'll make a video while I'm at it to show how to adjust it to take out the slack.
just want to give you an update I got the turbo out of my all-wheel drive escape and I was able to get it out of the top without moving the engine You don't have to go through the bottom and take off the PTU also I am just now leaving the machine shop and basically they can't put bushings in or fix the actuator rods or replace them without cutting into it and they're experiences that you have about a 1/3 chance that those welds are probably going to crack and then there was some other issues I don't want to put it down here because I don't think I'll say it right But basically I think it was parts geek has a new turbo for $481 he said he would probably quote me about $350 for the job but it could be more or less and so the the risk isn't worth saving that $130 so until someone starts selling just the turbine housing unfortunately it does seem like the best option is just to replace the whole turbo hopefully you can buy it from some other place instead of forwarding up a $1,200
Just got my 2013 ford explorer turbo fixed and now im hearing the rattling sound i think it may failed again i think its the wastegate solenoid that may messed up the new turbo i just put in ima have to check that out again
@@plxyboilx04 very doubtful when I got my new turbo the linkage was much better it takes a long time those are metal parts it takes a long time and a lot of cycles for them to wear out I know that some of the EcoBoost engines we're having some timing chain or VCT issues that also made a rattling sound when is the rattling sound what details can you give whenever I had my V6 mustang that was supposed to be a rattling from the valve buckets but I never experienced that and I never knew anyone that did but these use that same technology
So if you want to check if it's the linkage you're going to have to just go behind the engine there's two bolts that connect the diaphragm rod to the wastegate linkage wait for your engine to cool off it'll be too hot and just take off one of the nuts cuz it has to be loose and then you can feel if the linkage is loose I hate to say it but what mechanic did you take it to what if they just put the same s***** turbo right back on and charged you but I wouldn't even think that until you check the linkage because that would be beyond bull crap and if you have pictures of the turbo you could probably prove it another thing is you might check the exhaust piping if they didn't tighten it down right cuz I know I had mine on and off a few times and it's a pain getting those exhaust pipes to line up right and tighten down right
Also you're going to have one of these EcoBoost engines and I would spend 100 bucks put in a boost gauge it's so helpful for diagnostics those 2.0 should be making 15 psi when you put it to the floor and it shouldn't cost $100 even there's no good port on the manifold for your gauge so what I recommend is getting a cheap throttle body spacer off eBay like I did they're like 20 bucks the one that I got has like eight ports although you only need one and then I think I got the glow shift electronic boost gauge just cuz I like to read my gauges and digital I've had them on a bunch of cars never had problems with them even though they're cheap and then I could even give you the fuse that I used it's an unused fuse it's like the farthest to the front driver side if I remember right in the fuse box and that's where I tied in my boost gauge if you want to run an electric one it's really easy anyone can do it I could even show you how I put the gauge on my dash so you don't have to drill or anything and you can just take it off when you sell the car
I kept the old turbo i know the new prt was in the car because when i drove my car with the new turbo it was alot better i got good boost there was no rattling but then 2 days later i heard it again and i thought the turbo messed up again or something but when i checked the car it said the car needs a wastegate solenoid and a catalytic converter
Dose this affect gas mileage as well I’m getting shit mileage and when I let of the gas around 40 or rev it up and the motor slowes there is a weird rattle
I only noticed the rattle on deceleration when you let off the gas It didn't seem to affect my mileage that much but I still had boost most of the time it just wasn't as much I only had a very short period where I had absolutely no boost and it was such a short period that I don't think it affected gas mileage I ever did about 25-26 with probably 70% highway
Please do a video taking turbo off especially with awd I just can't reach some bolts or can't get leverage to take some off. Also the heat shield bolts on exhaust manifold stripped on me right away sucks so bad could be a not too bad job if ford had thought about people working on these cars really easily but of course didnt
I wish I could do that for you, but I don't have an AWD vehicle, and I installed the new turbo a year ago. There is a few videos out there that show the removal on an Explorer. It's a nearly identical setup. Yes, some of the bolts are a monster to get at. You might need some specialty tools to do the job yourself.
@@lutheranpriest yeah I saw the explorer one there was enough differences and I got all the way to the turbo problem was there's just no way to get the turbo out without taking off the transfer case I was just going to take off the turbine housing but it's on there So stuck I couldn't get it off so I'm just going to do a little Jimmy riggin I'm going to use a spring inside the pivot point to take the slop out and hope that the seat of the valve inside for the wastegate isn't jacked and I'll just have to hope that that last long enough till I can figure out a way to get the turbine housing off by itself Thanks for the reply appreciate videos
@@sock979 the best thing you can do would be to adjust the wastegate linkage. You'll need a manual vacuum pump, they're around $20 on eBay, or your local parts store might loan them out. Put the vacuum pump on the wastegate vacuum can, pump it up, then adjust the linkage until there's no play between the gate and port. You should have enough clearance to visually check that it's adjusted enough to close the wastegate if you unbolt the catalytic converter and remove the two bolts that keep the convertor in place. Just be sure not to overtighten the linkage.
@@lutheranpriest hey any chance you still have the old turbo can you see how hard it is to take that pin out of the arm I was thinking about trying to do something while I still have the car on or the turbo on the car because as best I can tell the actual seat of the wastegate isn't bad It's just the slop in the arm that's my problem right now So I wanted to see if there's any way to get that pin out and replace it while it's still on there if that's super hard you need a press or what
@@sock979 sorry, I don't have the old turbo, it was returned for the core deposit. In my opinion, the best temp fix is to adjust the linkage. You'd still have slop in the wastegate, but if you adjusted the linkage until the wastegate plug would fully close, you'd probably get the amount of needed boost to eliminate the problem as far as the sensors and ECM are concerned.
My theory is that Borg Warner used too soft of a metal when manufacturing the earlier turbos. On mine, the armature that connects the wastegate to the rod was worn quite bad, and the difference between the plug on the old and the plug on the new was quite significant. Even though the engine only had 95k miles on it, you would have thought it was 250k plus just by looking at the turbo.
I have a question. So we own a 2012 Ford Edge with the ecoboost. It doesn't have any wastegate rattle but it has a P0299 code. The vehicle has 218k miles on it. Runs and drives great but doesn't have much power. Normally when you take off the airbox, you get a lot of turbo noise. Ours has very little turbo noise. Do you think the wastegate actuator could be bad? Or maybe the boost sensor? It's had this issue for the past 30k-40k miles. Any tips?
Hey, Austin. I'll preface this by saying that I'm not a mechanic, just a guy who's done most of his own car repairs as long as I've been driving. I'm assuming that you have the 2.0L. If you have the 3.5L V6, some of the information below might be different, specifically with the vacuum control solenoids.
With 218k miles on the engine, if it's the original turbocharger, I wouldn't be surprised if that's the culprit. But, since it's an expensive repair, I'm sure you'll want to make sure it's the turbo that's failed.
The first thing I would test is the actuator, using a hand held vacuum pump. If you don't have one, they're fairly inexpensive. With the tubing of the pump on the vacuum can for the actuator, with vacuum pressure applied, you should see two things happen. 1) the actuator rod should pull in towards the vacuum can without returning until vacuum pressure is released, and 2) with the actuator fully engaging the wastegate, you should feel no slack on the linkage for the wastegate. If you have noticeable slack on the linkage, the wastegate linkage is shot. At this time, there isn't a parts kit to swap out the wastegate. I did some shopping around, and there was a turbo repair shop that would rebuild the wastegate for a reasonable fee. The two shops I heard back from are Timsturbos.com and ctiturbo.com. It would be possible to remove just the exhaust side of the turbo, so you wouldn't have to deal with removing it from the engine. Of course, at 218k miles, it might just be best to replace the turbo, since there's no way of knowing how much longer the turbo is going to last. If there is no slack in the linkage, but the actuator rod doesn't keep the actuator always engaged under vacuum pressure, the actuator can is bad. Unfortunately, there isn't a Ford specific actuator available, but if you do an eBay search for K03 wastegate actuator, there are some that would likely work. (The turbo is a Borg Warner K03.) I would just make sure the length of the rod, especially the threaded part, is as close as possible.
Just a quick note on the wastegate: if it's shot and you don't plan on keeping the vehicle for much longer, with the actuator engaged using the hand vacuum pump, you can adjust the linkage so that there's no more slack. This will get a couple thousand more miles out of the turbo without a loss of performance.
Moving on, if the actuator and wastegate test fine, it's time to check if vacuum is getting to the vacuum can. The easiest way to test this will require the help of an assistant. With the vehicle on a lift or ramps, start the engine and while observing the turbo from below, the actuator should engage when revving the engine. If that tests fine, great. If not, there are two solenoids that control the vacuum line to the actuator. One solenoid/sensor is located just to the right side of the turbo. The other control solenoid is located on top of the engine, just forward of the plug coils. I won't go into the details of testing these, but there is plenty of information available for testing vacuum solenoids. I would suspect the vacuum lines to be faulty before the solenoids would fail. Some of the lines are rubber vacuum tubing, some rigid line. Do a thorough visual inspection of all the lines from the solenoid on the top of the engine, all the way down to the other control solenoid, as well as the lines to the three ports on the turbo. I also read of a case where someone found a defective electrical connector for the sensor/solenoid that's located to the right of the turbo. A visual inspection should be all that's needed to determine if either of the electrical connectors for the solenoids are defective. I wouldn't know where to start if those need to be replaced, but there might be replacement pigtails available that would require being soldered to the correct wires. Worst case scenario might require scouring junk yards to find a vehicle that you could scavenge the wiring from.
If by this point you still haven't found anything that would prevent the turbo from properly functioning, there are only four more things to check: the intake tube that runs from the air filter box to the turbo, the outlet tube that runs from the turbo to the intercooler, the intercooler itself, and the tube that connects the intercooler to the intake manifold. Any cracks in any of the tubes or the intercooler can cause the P0299 underboost condition code. I can't think of anything else in the turbo/intake system that could possibly cause the turbo to provide adequate boost.
The only other thing I can think of is if the bearing in the turbo cartridge is seized and the impeller isn't turning. You could check for this yourself by removing the exhaust side of the turbo, or if you were to disconnect the catalytic convertor, and if there's enough clearance, you might be able to get a screwdriver in through the wastegate port and see if you can manually turn the impeller.
If you end up having to replace the turbo and plan on doing the work yourself, I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. Having read numerous reviews of the cheap eBay and Amazon turbos that are available and their high failure rate, I would definitely recommend sticking with the genuine Ford part. If you order from the link provided in the video description, it's $657 plus shipping and core charge, which isn't a whole lot more than the aftermarket/no name turbos available. Before you remove the old turbo, be sure to check if the flange depth on the existing and replacement turbos is identical, and be sure to get all the proper seals: 3 water jacket seals, 4 copper washer oil seals, in line oil filter, 2 oil return gaskets, flange gasket, and catalytic convertor/exhaust gasket. Nothing sucks like starting the project and not having all the parts. Also, this turbo model has both cooling and oil lines, so you'll need to drain your cooling system.
Good luck to you, and I hope you're successful in diagnosing the problem.
Great type up! Thank you so much! I've found low mileage Escape turbos for $150 shipped. Looks to be the same set up. We will probably go used route. How hard is the job? I'll pull the cat off and check the turbine. Is that difficult to do? We are Saab techs but my brother bought this Edge when it was traded into our ex employer. We got it for 2200 out the door. It came in with 199k miles and we planned to send it to auction due to a ”failing transmission.” It was a steal! The transmission failure? A 36$ cooler line. It rusted and lost a good amount of tranny fluid. Replaced that line and added fluid. Shifts smooth as butter!! Current codes are P0299 and P0171 or P0420. I can't remember which one it was. One of those codes was caused by a bad upstream oxygen sensor (I think it was the P0420 code, it went away after we replaced the sensor.) It's pushing 218k miles and it's honestly been an awesome vehicle. Last owner drove about 80 miles each way for work. She put 4k-6k miles a month on it. When we bought it, we replaced the cooler line, oxygen sensor, spark plugs, cabin filter, engine filter, oil change, coolant flush, tinted it 5% all around, replaced the Firestone tires that were on it for used Michelins (90% tread. $242 for all four!) My brother and I installed them ourselves. First time replacing tires and unfortunately broke two TPMS sensors. Brother bought a Sync 3 system for it and the Sony sound system. It has all the Sony speakers and Sony faceplate. Pano roof still works perfectly. It's been a great vacation car! He bought it May of 18. It's been to Florida, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Kansas City, MO. We put 17k miles on it in about 7 months. It's been parked for the past few months. But it's going to be put into daily status soon. We are a Saab and Ford family for life! Just gotta save as many Saabs as possible! We have had somewhere around 25 Saab vehicles! I'll keep you posted on the Edge! Hopefully will get the turbo issue fixed soon! Thank you for making the video and for the quick response!
@@austin8607 being that you're a Saab tech, this will go a long way in making this an easier task. I won't sugar coat it, it's not a fun task to swap out the turbo. The toughest part of it is getting the oil supply line back on. Those little copper washer seals are a pain when you're working in such a tight space.
Pulling the cat off is very easy. There's one bolt on a band clamp that holds the cat pipe onto the turbo, and two bolts that hold the cat to the frame. Once it's disconnected, because there's a flex pipe on the exhaust system, there should be enough clearance to move the cat out of the way and also check for any slop in the wastegate assembly.
Here's what might be considered some bad news: I'm fairly confident in saying that the Escape turbo isn't interchangeable with the Edge, as the part numbers are different. Here's the link for the 2013 Escape 2.0 turbo (PN CJ5Z-6K682-F. If you check under Vehicle Fitment, there's no mention of that turbo being compatible with the Edge: bit.ly/2mr3d0g
Compare that to the 2012 Edge 2.0 turbo (PN CB5Z-6K682-H). Under Vehicle Fitment, this turbo was only used with the 2012 and early 2013 Edge 2.0, and in the 2012 Explorer. bit.ly/2liZeCX Even though the Vehicle Fitment shows that part working with the 2012-2015 Explorer, the 2013-2015 Explorer has a different part # that uses the deeper exhaust flange. I found that out the hard way, after getting the new turbo all bolted in, only to have the cat not mate with the turbo because I had the wrong dang turbo with a different flange size than what was required for my application.
Sadly, Ford engineers in their infinite wisdom couldn't be bothered with using the same turbo for all 2.0 applications. Unless everything is 100% dimensionally identical, there's a good chance it isn't going to fit. After what I went through ending up with the wrong turbo the first time around, whatever turbo you replace it with, make sure it has the same part number, in the case of the 2012 2.0L Edge, CB5Z-6K682-H. Just a quick note, after I realized that I had the wrong turbo, I called the parts department that I had purchased the turbo through. They were able to look up the part number that was on the id tag on the original turbo, and give me a superseded part number. If you come across a replacement turbo that has a slightly different part number on the id tag than the part number specified, you can call your local Ford parts department, and they should be able to tell you if that is one of the correct part numbers for your application.
Sounds good! Thank you for the information! Hopefully will jump into everything in the next month or so!
Hey! Are these part numbers correct? These are the gaskets. There are three?
Turbocharger Gasket CJ5Z-9448-A
Turbocharger Oil Return Gasket CJ5Z-6N652-A
Turbocharger Water Inlet Gasket (2?) AG9Z-9P431-A
Do I need two water inlet gaskets? Diagram shows two but I'm not sure
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