Hi Jay, this is Ken from BadShoe Productions. I had a customer who got my C4 repair video and had a problem understanding the relation between the #1 and #2 washer setup which I detailed in my video. However, he found your video here. You approach it from a different angle. He let me know that he fully gets it now watching your video. Therefore, I want you thank you for helping my customer out. I'm checking out all your videos which are super good especially on the C4 stuff, thanks again Jay.
I sure do appreciate this information all other people said use the plastic washer to set end play when I go through mine I'm going to set it like this like you said.
During the recession of the early 80's, my dad lost his really good paying job. For the next year and a half until he found another good job, he supplemented his income rebuilding mainly C4's and some C6's. After he quit Super Stock racing about 1976 and started Bracket Racing, he used C4 Automatics in his cars for better consistency over a toploader 4 speed. I worked beside him at that time and learned a lot of the ins and outs of rebuilding a C4. I used them in my own race car and starting in the late 80's, I was the one building them for local racers and some regular street cars. I am trying to remember, but I think that the '64 to '71 Chilton's manual has a good description as to how to do this correctly. Really haven't found any other good printed source for this, but my printed sources are all 45+ years old by now. Used to always set the backlash between .006" and .008". Experimented with tighter, but at least in my experience, .006" was about as tight as I wanted to go. Used to write the backlash number on the case with paint marker for future reference so I could compare after 100 runs or so on the transmission.
I have found If you shim the bronze washer out too far to get the proper end play the Teflon sealing ring on the forward clutch will blow out. Ask me how I know. Also even the thickest bronze selective washer .107 inch won't work sometimes to get the proper end play with these roller thrust bearings. I have had to shim the roller thrust bearings to get the end play right. It can take a long time to get it right.😥
Hi Jay, this is Ken from BadShoe Productions. I had a customer who got my C4 repair video and had a problem understanding the relation between the #1 and #2 washer setup which I detailed in my video. However, he found your video here. You approach it from a different angle. He let me know that he fully gets it now watching your video. Therefore, I want you thank you for helping my customer out. I'm checking out all your videos which are super good especially on the C4 stuff, thanks again Jay.
Hi Ken. Thanks for checking out the channel. Im glad the video helped. I always recommend your videos to people wanting to build their own trans.
@@BroaderPerformance I appreciate that, thanks again.
I sure do appreciate this information all other people said use the plastic washer to set end play when I go through mine I'm going to set it like this like you said.
I could be wrong but this is what makes sense to me.
@@BroaderPerformance your right.
He is right,depends on the year of trans,, 64 use the # 2 metal washer,, not the plastic # 1 .
During the recession of the early 80's, my dad lost his really good paying job. For the next year and a half until he found another good job, he supplemented his income rebuilding mainly C4's and some C6's. After he quit Super Stock racing about 1976 and started Bracket Racing, he used C4 Automatics in his cars for better consistency over a toploader 4 speed.
I worked beside him at that time and learned a lot of the ins and outs of rebuilding a C4. I used them in my own race car and starting in the late 80's, I was the one building them for local racers and some regular street cars.
I am trying to remember, but I think that the '64 to '71 Chilton's manual has a good description as to how to do this correctly. Really haven't found any other good printed source for this, but my printed sources are all 45+ years old by now.
Used to always set the backlash between .006" and .008". Experimented with tighter, but at least in my experience, .006" was about as tight as I wanted to go. Used to write the backlash number on the case with paint marker for future reference so I could compare after 100 runs or so on the transmission.
Interesting story. Thanks for sharing it.
your the man Jay
Thank you !
Appreciate the information, thank you.
You bet!
Jay , I learned that in about '74
I learned the right way !
SOme of the younger guys still didnt know.
Good ford shop manual clear as mud when comes to this procedure
You got that right!
Hi upon rebuilding a C4 transmission is a break in period required afterward? Thanks.
Not really. Just give it a chance to purge air when you first fire it up.
I have found If you shim the bronze washer out too far to get the proper end play the Teflon sealing ring on the forward clutch will blow out. Ask me how I know. Also even the thickest bronze selective washer .107 inch won't work sometimes to get the proper end play with these roller thrust bearings. I have had to shim the roller thrust bearings to get the end play right. It can take a long time to get it right.😥
That is a good point. You can over shim and cause an issue with the sealing rings.
Much easier method!!
I hope it helps
My 30 year old JPT C4 has rollers in both those spots.
I think JPT was like the Godfather of roller bearing conversions.
Just got a speedmaster advertisement on this video....wtf
That's actually kind of funny and ironic. Haha