I just took my 2001 Subaru outback to my mechanic and I actually had to use my AAA and have it towed because it would only crank. With 218,000 miles I was given all the nightmare scenarios timing chains jumped electrical. Although at 68 years old, I have a Lotta years working on cars and my wife used to watch our mechanic so he can swim in their inground pool when he was a kid. , and he never forgot her for that. He’s been at this for 25 years races cars and with my failing health, he really does take care of me, so the first thing he did What do I pressure check on the fuel pump and it was way down so he replaced the fuel pump fix the problem And said it was a pleasure working on that Subaru Because it is so mechanic friendly.
I get a somewhat long cold start on my 02 h6 as well as irregular cold idle. At low load and speed in top gear the car seems to ‘wiggle’ a bit like it’s not running smoothly. At higher speeds it has small hesitations when adding a bit of gas. Fuel trims are normal and I put in new plugs, ignition coils and injectors without a change. It has a new fuel filter. So I’m considering a fuel pump. Maybe it’s not bad, just not performing well after 200000 miles.
Sounds like you have done quite a bit. A fuel pump is not hard to do and fairly cheap. These cars also had issues with the plastic sending unit oring leaking too.
Discovered VVG with this video - looking to troubleshoot my own 04 Outback stuttering/hesitation problem. Just bought this old Suby with 250K miles and I can hear the pump squeaking in the back....the hesitation and stuttering varies from non-existent to a full one second of power loss and stuttering. No CEL. Replaced air filter and plugs.
I have been doing some research it seems on the fuel pump housing there is a large o-ring about 1.5-2” diameter that fails and causes a fuel leak internally in the fuel pump housing. This can still be diagnosed with a fuel pressure gauge. It will ready low or not hood pressure after key is Cycled off
@@VinylVillageGarage The problem is a loss of power. Often when first starting the car for the day and sometimes on the road - the car sputters for a few seconds. The pump assembly in my tank has a sender unit, a pump, an a filter. The only O-ring I see is the one that seals the filter canister (there is a replaceable paper filter element). It was very tight and required some lube to reassemble. The fuel pressure is around 35 psi. What would you suggest? ruclips.net/user/shortsygEboXZ8BFE
It seems you and quite a few others are experiencing the same issue. Fuel pressure stays steady while running bad and holds good pressure with the engine off and key off. No fault codes but the car falls on its face basically while driving. It seems like a common enough problem that someone has to have the solution or has figured it out. I wish I had the answer. The next step in diagnosing would be watching ecm data and input from the sensors and see if anything goes out of whack maybe not out of range or it would set a fault code but abnormal readings.
@@VinylVillageGarage You might find this helpful since I asked you about both problems previously. Problem: intermittent sputtering and loss of power. Happened any time or speed but strong tendency to occur for morning starts when parked with nose slightly uphill. Solution: rebuilding the in-tank unit and replacing the EXPENSIVE black rubber bits that seal the fuel pump and filter. That was $70 for those 3 tiny rubber parts.
I'm getting a very mysterious gas smell inside my cabin. It only happens after I run my car for about thirty minutes and it's coming from the inside rear. Strongest smelling near the trunk area. It's not coming from the engine bay, it's not my gas cap. Could it be fuel pump assembly? I got to the assembly and it doesn't exactly smell like it's coming from there it's so hard to tell.
The fuel pump And the access plate is sealed to the floor so it would Be very difficult for the vapor to get in that way. Inspect the fuel lines from the pump to the engine for excessive rust or seeping.
Halfway through the video, but it would be wise to disable the power to the car, and possibly run the pressure out of the lines before attempting this.
@@VinylVillageGarage was referring to those that worked on it before. I owned my own shop and it was stunning the badly diagnosed vehicle that came in.
do you know if a fuel filter can be added to this pump style? looks like the cap is as big as the filter and maybe the same size. filter and cap. 42072AE00A gasket and cap dorman. 902-438
I just took my 2001 Subaru outback to my mechanic and I actually had to use my AAA and have it towed because it would only crank. With 218,000 miles I was given all the nightmare scenarios timing chains jumped electrical. Although at 68 years old, I have a Lotta years working on cars and my wife used to watch our mechanic so he can swim in their inground pool when he was a kid. , and he never forgot her for that. He’s been at this for 25 years races cars and with my failing health, he really does take care of me, so the first thing he did What do I pressure check on the fuel pump and it was way down so he replaced the fuel pump fix the problem And said it was a pleasure working on that Subaru Because it is so mechanic friendly.
Subaru is definitely repair man friendly even the engine every bolt but the engine mounts can be removed from the topside.
Assess, improvise, adapt, modify, overcome. Well done. Thanks for the video. I'm due to replace mine soon.
Glad it helped
Awesome! i can fix my outback now! thank you. So much for this video.
Very welcome
Congratulations on the award!
thank you
This looks pretty easy. Thanks for the video. I am on my way to pick up a new fuel pump for my outback.
Glad to help. It’s nice that there is an access panel most cars you have to drop the tank to replace the pump.
If they only made third and fourth gen birds this easy to change!
lol. I know I could not agree more. I have more time driving to the part store.
did you see the Buick?
I get a somewhat long cold start on my 02 h6 as well as irregular cold idle. At low load and speed in top gear the car seems to ‘wiggle’ a bit like it’s not running smoothly. At higher speeds it has small hesitations when adding a bit of gas. Fuel trims are normal and I put in new plugs, ignition coils and injectors without a change. It has a new fuel filter.
So I’m considering a fuel pump. Maybe it’s not bad, just not performing well after 200000 miles.
Sounds like you have done quite a bit. A fuel pump is not hard to do and fairly cheap. These cars also had issues with the plastic sending unit oring leaking too.
It’s actually a 1984 Buick Grand National I did end up talking to the owner it’s a nice car. Not for sale…. Yet😉
Thanks same car same issue
Welcome, The fuel pumps and there is a large o-ring on the sending units that fail frequently. You should replace both while in there.
Discovered VVG with this video - looking to troubleshoot my own 04 Outback stuttering/hesitation problem.
Just bought this old Suby with 250K miles and I can hear the pump squeaking in the back....the hesitation and stuttering varies from non-existent to a full one second of power loss and stuttering. No CEL. Replaced air filter and plugs.
I have been doing some research it seems on the fuel pump housing there is a large o-ring about 1.5-2” diameter that fails and causes a fuel leak internally in the fuel pump housing. This can still be diagnosed with a fuel pressure gauge. It will ready low or not hood pressure after key is Cycled off
@@VinylVillageGarage The problem is a loss of power. Often when first starting the car for the day and sometimes on the road - the car sputters for a few seconds.
The pump assembly in my tank has a sender unit, a pump, an a filter. The only O-ring I see is the one that seals the filter canister (there is a replaceable paper filter element). It was very tight and required some lube to reassemble. The fuel pressure is around 35 psi.
What would you suggest?
ruclips.net/user/shortsygEboXZ8BFE
It seems you and quite a few others are experiencing the same issue. Fuel pressure stays steady while running bad and holds good pressure with the engine off and key off. No fault codes but the car falls on its face basically while driving. It seems like a common enough problem that someone has to have the solution or has figured it out. I wish I had the answer. The next step in diagnosing would be watching ecm data and input from the sensors and see if anything goes out of whack maybe not out of range or it would set a fault code but abnormal readings.
@@VinylVillageGarage You might find this helpful since I asked you about both problems previously.
Problem: intermittent sputtering and loss of power. Happened any time or speed but strong tendency to occur for morning starts when parked with nose slightly uphill.
Solution: rebuilding the in-tank unit and replacing the EXPENSIVE black rubber bits that seal the fuel pump and filter. That was $70 for those 3 tiny rubber parts.
I'm getting a very mysterious gas smell inside my cabin. It only happens after I run my car for about thirty minutes and it's coming from the inside rear. Strongest smelling near the trunk area. It's not coming from the engine bay, it's not my gas cap. Could it be fuel pump assembly?
I got to the assembly and it doesn't exactly smell like it's coming from there it's so hard to tell.
The fuel pump
And the access plate is sealed to the floor so it would
Be very difficult for the vapor to get in that way. Inspect the fuel lines from the pump to the engine for excessive rust or seeping.
Looks easy besides actually installing the new pump into old housing…. Hopefully I don’t fuck anything up too bad lol
The plastic can be brittle. Worse case you can buy an all new pump assembly
Halfway through the video, but it would be wise to disable the power to the car, and possibly run the pressure out of the lines before attempting this.
👍
Doesnt anyone do proper diagnostics any longer ?
Everyday at work
@@VinylVillageGarage was referring to those that worked on it before. I owned my own shop and it was stunning the badly diagnosed vehicle that came in.
Much easier than a 340
Agreed!
can you tell me where the fuel filter is on that subaru?
Yes, it’s located under the hood drivers side strut tower. Follow the fuel line from the engine and you will see it in line.
do you know if a fuel filter can be added to this pump style? looks like the cap is as big as the filter and maybe the same size.
filter and cap. 42072AE00A
gasket and cap dorman. 902-438
back seat passenger side. thats if it is a 4 door. the 2 doors have them just behind the trunk area