Roll up garage door opener - standard style hack/DIY
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- Опубликовано: 24 сен 2022
- Using a standard overhead style garage door opener for my metal roll up garage doors.
1: genie 1.25hp belt opener installed on my 9’ high x 10’ wide roll up doors. NO extension kit needed. If your doors are higher than 9’ then yes you’ll need to use their extension kit.
Using this for 6 months with zero issues. The only issue I had originally was that the doors were tensioned too heavily from the installers. I had to look online and found a PDF instruction that showed how to release excessive tension. Once I neutralized the doors, everything functioned great.
DONT OVER THINK this guys. I’ve seen some videos of guys over engineering this and investing more time and money than is needed.
Good luck!
Just ordered this! Cheaper and less frabricating than the vevor garage openers need so thank you!!
Now that's a great idea. I am having a metal building with two 10x10 doors and as you mentioned, I'd have to have some extensions but this is an economical way to gain automatic door lifters. Nicely done and I truly appreciate the video. 👍🏽🤠 8/20/23
Awesome job thanks for showing your setup.
i have the same type doors. I had to add tension to my doors. I also had to fab a bracket for the motor to mount. I have 12 ft walls so my support beams are different heights. Been a lot of trial and error. Almost there.
Very nicely done!
In my country this setup is sold as a kit with a round tubing thatbgies through etc but good work.
Absolutely perfect!
Genius. Love it.
Great idea. Opting for a steel or aluminum bar vs the 2x4 would make it look professional. Thanks for sharing.
100% agree. I originally planned on a metal plate/bar but couldn’t justify the price as the outcome was the same. If you’re in an environment where clients/customers may view then yes, I would opt for metal. For me, no one is in my garage except for my wife and myself.
Thanks for viewing!
I have a similar setup, but I cheaped out on the bar. It is too small and not rigidly connected. It worked great for about a year than the bar got deformed and is now getting jammed at times. This video was helpful in seeing the benefit of a more rigid solution.
Very cool idea
Very cool. If you want to know that it's not harming the motor, put an amp probe on the motor wire, read the amps during its opening and closing, and compare the reading to the rated motor amps on the tag-hopefully, it's at or under the rated amps or at least not much higher. I think I will try this on mine when the building is finished.
It would be interesting to know for general information but so far in 7-8 months with temps varying from 25f to 105f and humidity from 0-100% there has been no change. I’m happy with this $180 motor. I see no reason why this won’t last years to come.
That is so cool.
When you screwed the 2x4 to the door, did you just have screws sticking out through the door on the other side?
Yes, but fasten it the way you want
Brilliant!
Great video looking for something just like this my question would be would it work fine on just one door mine is a 10 by 10 door
I just tried a Genie Screw Drive Max Force 2 H.P. for 2-10' doors. It only raised it 6', then I heard the screw slip. I out of ideas.
Could you please send me step by step instructions of how you did this? I just got a building and wanna do this asap.
Or could you please send me a parts list with sizes of hardware and such. And a link to the instruction on releasing the tension?
Interesting. I have an old opener like this. Any thoughts to using heavy duty barrel latches on each door. Cut 2x into three pieces, latch is mounted on door 2x and the two latch receivers are mounted on short 2x that’s attached to opener.
I think I get what you’re saying and it could possibly work. The doors if tensioned correctly truly need very little energy to go up and down. I’ve seen others use very short metal rods (2’ long on an 8’ wide door) and it still worked. I wanted my 2x4 wood very long to prevent binding this why I went roughly half way across each door.
Your way could very well work. I’m still using this set up multiple tours daily since the day I installed.
@@TheMopar97 thinking some more about it, another alternative would be If there’s a primary door, leave the center and primary door 2x as one piece, secondary door would have the barrel latch. Sounds like the long 2x is working great for your needs. Thanks for sharing.
Did this for only one side, also using a genie like yours, but using pipe and rail brackets (pipe slides right in). Got it exactly centered and plumb. Problem is because it pulls up, with greatest pressure on one side (since installed in center), it lifts that side a bit higher so that no matter what you do it rolls up unevenly. Figure it will do the same for one door using the wood. Worried it would break the door so I have to figure a solution or take it out. Figure it will do the same for one door using the wood. spent 3 days on it already. Any ideas?
You’ll have to find a way to remove the flex (or at least 90%+ ). Keep searching and thinking!
If you add tension to the spring on the opposite side that's being pulled you'll fix the unevenness issue
Name your price!! Every garage door company has told me I cant put an electric opener on my door on my metal building. I am in E. Tn. Please come and install one for me.
what type of door do you have?
Metal building like yours. Carolina car ports. Roll up door, looks similar to yours. I am near Knoxville.@@drewlinton3472
Genius!!! How you like your building from them? Waiting in mine now.
Building is great. They put it together in one day. 26x34x10. Peaks 13’ in the center. I spent the extra for 12g metal to have their 20 year warranty
When you installed the opener did you need adjust the tension on either of the two roll up doors?
Yes. Both of mine were way too tight
Does the safety reversal system work??
Yes. Sensors are mounted like normal and function fine
How did u by pass the elec eyes
I didn’t. They are there working as they should
Just spent 3 days and about 450$ trying to do this. Bought metal and a welding machine to make a custom brackets etc. Instead of it working the bottom of the doors twist at various positions. While it seems cool after doing ot on mine I would not recommend trying this. You could easily wind up putting it all in just to be taking it all out. I get 7 days off ever 3 month and this not only wasted my money but 3 out of 7 days off. Roll up doors are not made for this.
You literally did what I wrote NOT to do. You over thought and OVER engineered it.
I did the same method as the video as a temporary solution for my door. Though I didn't like it, it worked just fine. I have since built a mechanism so that the motor turns the drum in the same way the chain pulley used to. I am super pleased with this iteration.
Really
But the roll up openers are 90 to 130 a piece.
More!!!!
How can u say more, I just bought one for 90.00
@@CHEECHMUN
Vevor motor cost $129
133 as a member. May 22, 2024. That's only one motor!