This video was one of the most helpful resources I found while installing a Drolet stove with vortex double wall stovepipe. The instructions from Drolet (and Selkirk for the chimney and cathedral ceiling support box) we’re dismal. This video was a lifesaver!
Nicely done. Might mention that some local inspectors want to see at least one of the tags for the chimney, and all the other components, so put them in a safe place if you remove them. You will also need the installation manual for the chimney system, and the stove, so the inspector can make sure it is "installed according to the manufacturer's instructions", as required by NFPA 211 or equivalent code.
Cannot thank you enough for this video! We needed help because we couldn’t figure out what went where during install. This video walked us through all the pieces. And your staff helped us during the ordering process figuring out what we needed as far as adapters. Thank you thank you thank you!!!
this video is super helpful! Well done! The dura brand catalogs do not describe which parts work with each other at all, so this helps clear things up a lot!
thanks for the vid, this duravent branded stuff can be hard to understand how all the pieces connect. My question is how do you secure the chimney pipe to the silver adapter you installed at the bottom of the support box? Is there enough room to get a screw gun in there with metal screws coming from the top?
Excellent video; just what I was looking for. You pretty much explained everything one needs to know to install a stove pipe, including the details. Thanks.
The design of the telescopic piece seems to be incorrect. The top half should slide into the bottom to stop any flue debris from coming out of the insert zone of the flue.
I found some info that confirms that female up male down is correct. Debris will rise and build up in the gaps, then will eventually fall down into stove vs floor. Also, the gaps will draft into the pipe, smoke will not escape. If you light some matches, blow them out, you will see the smoke suck into the pipe when stove is in use. If no cap on top of roof, rain will also drain in stove vs floor. I found a great video on this which really cleared it up
That stove pipe seems backwards to me because it would fail code where I live because the female ends are supposed to face up to prevent moisture and creosote from leaking out of the chimney onto the top of the stove down the piping.
No caulk is used on stove pipe. The draft carries the gases up and out. (remember this is a flue, not plumbing) If you were to use sealing cement/caulk, you would NOT be able to disassemble the pipe when it comes time to clean it inside.
I have the same problem as Scott Bulger my chimney adapter ring will not go into the support box. I have tried all i can think of and it just will not go. What did Scott Bulger do? looks like one of these items is defective, because there is no way I can find to get the adapter ring to go into the support box. What can I do to correct this problem without damage to either the support box or the adapter?
I would like to know about location and installation of the double wall damper? I thought a damper would be necessary even on the double wall stove pipe?
Some people choose not to install damper if the stove already has adequate air control built into wood stove ect. It is something you definitely can install, but most often with newer stoves that have controlls to adjust precise primary and secondary air controlls, it is not needed, because those controls act as the damper
I only have one small area close to a combustible where I would need double wall pipe. Can I combine double wall pipe with single wall pipe to same money?
Great video.... I have a couple of questions. 1. I am using an 8" to 6" adapter on my stove. It has a collar on it, so my 6" telecoping pipe fits right over it. The holes in the adapter don't line up with the holes in the bottom of the telescoping stove pipe. Should I drill new holes in the adapter to attach it or just leave it sit on there? 2. I can't seem to find an answer to this in my instructions. The telescoping pipe has holes in the outer pipe. Of course there are no holes in the inner pipe. Do I drill holes through the inner pipe to attach it? Someone said just use the little screws that came with it to kind of "pinch" it to the inner pipe, but the screws won't go in with the outer wall of the inner pipe pushed up against the inner wall of the outer pipe. THANKS!
Does the stove pipe need any sealing cement from one piece to the next? Iv not seen them close up and was just wondering what and if it needs sealing or if it does it itself ?
No sealing compound is used on stove pipe. The draft carries the gases up and out. (remember this is a flue, not plumbing) If you were to use sealing cement, you would NOT be able to disassemble the pipe when it comes time to clean it inside.
+CenterTree777 thanks tree, I was just under the impression you insert the pipes in such a way that should tar flow back down the pipe, that it remained in the pipe, which would mean gases rising could, under a dodgy seal, naturally escape the flue.
I would recommend NOT using those "heat re-claimers". You ideally want to keep your flue gasses as HOT as possible going out the roof. A re-claimer would siphon heat off the pipe causing cooling of the gas and therefore increasing creosote. Heat with your stove, NOT your flue.
The square, attached to the ceiling, is nailed into support framing inside the ceiling. You would have to cut away the bottom of the square box, expose the nail heads and attempt to pry them out. It can be a chore to remove/repair if there's currently a chimney coming out of your roof.
Don't use a 6" torpido level to check for (plumb). Use a 4' level yo check the pipe for (plimb) - not "level". Level is the horizontal direction.... and that's all I got to say about that.
great joe. very helpful. we're having ours done here in japan as I type, and I'd wondered why they'd made a wooden cradle for the roof? not sure if the's the right word, but I was concerned that it's wooden. Suppose they will insulate correctly. hope ...
I have a WoodPro 2000 stove. The stove top adapter will not get past the initial sealing ring. Spent 4 hours trying various ways to accomplish what he does in 5 seconds- still to no avail....Even tried fitting the bottom portion of the chimney pipe like it says in the instructions but it won't come within a quarter inch of aligning with the mounting holes on the stove. The stove's chimney inside diameter is 6". It can't be dremmeled (neither stove nor adapter), rubber malleted, twisted, turned, crimping or running around the stove 6 times singing hallelujah. NOTHING works! WTF???? Is the adapter defective? I would have to assume so since the one he had went right down to 1/2" to 3/4" of the stove top like it is supposed to. Mine wont get within 2 inches.
I paid someone a lot of money to install my wood stove with double wall pipes. As a last step, he drilled holes around the upper edge of the pipe where it meets the wall in the outer layer of the pipe to vent it. At the wall, the pipe went into a connector but the holes for the flow of the heat between the two layers just went into the insulation. Those holes were blocked on the inside which is why he said he needed to drill the pipes. To me, with holes drilled, it defeats the purpose of having two layered pipes. Where those holes are drilled, they are single layered pipes now. Can you tell me if this is okay. Did I get a bad installation? Is the wood stove safe to operate like this. The installer gave me a certificate for the insurance company stating it is safe to use but I have some anxiety about it now.
Drilling through the outer pipe doesn't diminish the double-wall function of the pipe, because there is still air space between the hot inner and cooler outer walls, and the screws in the outer wall won't affect the insulating effect of that air space.
Duravent diagram instructions shows the telescoping goes on top and the 18 inch goes on the bottom closest to the stove. What is odd is the customer service for the same company this guy is from was firm in an email to me to make sure the telescoping pipe is closest to the support box and the 18 inch on bottom near stove.
why can't you just use the double-wall telescoping pipe from stove top adapter to the ceiling support box adapter. Is the 18 inch pipe needed because of the extra length needed? tks regards
Telescoping pipe is only so long. If the ceiling support box is higher than the max length of the telescoping pipe you have to add a piece of fixed length pipe to get it reach. If the stove is closer to the ceiling than the max length of telescoping pipe you don’t need a fixed length pipe.
Joe, you keep saying "level". Carpenters say PLUMB, when they want to express not leaning to one side or another. On a 4x4 lumber, you would place a level against the four sides to make sure it isn't leaning.
Why would you wanna use double wall pipe from the stove top up to the 18" double wall pipe that drops from ceiling ? You lose the heat that would have radiated from the pipe ... forever . Can you not run single wall pipe up to that 18" double wall pipe ? Would you need another adapter at that connection . Its god damned hard as fucking hell to find enough compatible parts in Southern Wv to pipe a new stove...omfkng !
The point of this vid is heat to combustible items. Single wall pipe, as you say, gives off more room heat, so as long as you have no clearance problems and or decor that can melt nearby. Otherwise double wall will insulate those areas if you see future problems. I for one have a back wall mantle with decorations. Double wall keeps me from moving them while the stove is lite.
I do thank you for the install vid. But just have to say this. You cannot level anything that is vertical. You plumb it horizontal is leveling. Vertical is plumb!! Sorry man just been a carpenter for 28 years and it just bothers me when someone says level somthing vertical.
Now i understand about my black bart stove, the pipe is not just double walled it telescopes. Learned more thanks for great video.
Hey Bud, Thank You for your video this will definately make my life easier I didn't know how to do this, old dogs learn new tricks 👍
This video was one of the most helpful resources I found while installing a Drolet stove with vortex double wall stovepipe. The instructions from Drolet (and Selkirk for the chimney and cathedral ceiling support box) we’re dismal. This video was a lifesaver!
This video has been around for 9 years and I am now just finding it
Very helpful video! All the necessary details were covered. About to do my own installation and this video answered all the questions I had.
Nicely done. Might mention that some local inspectors want to see at least one of the tags for the chimney, and all the other components, so put them in a safe place if you remove them. You will also need the installation manual for the chimney system, and the stove, so the inspector can make sure it is "installed according to the manufacturer's instructions", as required by NFPA 211 or equivalent code.
Cannot thank you enough for this video! We needed help because we couldn’t figure out what went where during install. This video walked us through all the pieces. And your staff helped us during the ordering process figuring out what we needed as far as adapters. Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Excellent video. Thank you for not adding music, (that would just be distracting).
Good tip about wiping fingerprints before the first burn. I wouldn't have known that until it was too late. Thanks!
Well made video. picture is worth a thousand words.
this video is super helpful! Well done! The dura brand catalogs do not describe which parts work with each other at all, so this helps clear things up a lot!
thanks for the vid, this duravent branded stuff can be hard to understand how all the pieces connect. My question is how do you secure the chimney pipe to the silver adapter you installed at the bottom of the support box? Is there enough room to get a screw gun in there with metal screws coming from the top?
Great presentation! Very informative. Presenter has great camera presence. Thank you for posting!
Bullshit
Great video but on my Buck stove the collar on top of the stove is so large the DVL double wall adapter fits very loosely in the collar.
Very good and not rushed. Now if I can only get the bottom section of my old pipe apart to install the new stove at a different height.
I had to buy pipe pieces from different stores because their inventory was skimpy. I wonder if a single wall pipe will fit in a double wall pipe.
Thanks for the great job very quick nice and clean. Appreciate the way to explain tings. You make me ready to make mine done.👍
So does the "Flow" arrow have to be pointed downwards or pointed upwards?
Upwards in the direction the gases/ smoke from the wood stove will be venting out of the building
Unless you start a fire on the roof, then point it down.
Excellent video; just what I was looking for. You pretty much explained everything one needs to know to install a stove pipe, including the details. Thanks.
No he fuckin didn't.What video are you watching?
@@DtomDOJ what did he miss mr inspector
I'm watching work for inspiration. I'm curious, no dampener in the pipe? Is there one in the store itself?
Great job explaining every detail.👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Are the chimney adapter and wood stove adapter double wall??
Surprised to see no high temp silicone sealants were used between pipe sections. Why aren't the joint sections sealed to control smoke infiltration?
What a stud! He can work on my chimney anytime!
The design of the telescopic piece seems to be incorrect. The top half should slide into the bottom to stop any flue debris from coming out of the insert zone of the flue.
I found some info that confirms that female up male down is correct. Debris will rise and build up in the gaps, then will eventually fall down into stove vs floor. Also, the gaps will draft into the pipe, smoke will not escape. If you light some matches, blow them out, you will see the smoke suck into the pipe when stove is in use. If no cap on top of roof, rain will also drain in stove vs floor. I found a great video on this which really cleared it up
Is it possible or necessary to install a damper?
Do you have to use the 18 inch piece or can the telescoping piece go from stove to top piece
It depends on how far your stove is from your ceiling for the particular installation
Great video, as soon as I put together the telescoping dvl it got stuck. Any tips to get it telescoping again?
Why are you screwing the outer telescoping pipe to the inner telescoping pipe rather than let it expand and contract as conditions dictate?
Good question, I'd like to know how important that is. Let us know Joe!
No damper?
That stove pipe seems backwards to me because it would fail code where I live because the female ends are supposed to face up to prevent moisture and creosote from leaking out of the chimney onto the top of the stove down the piping.
Plumb not level, good job young man 🙏
THANK YOU. GEEZ 😂
Nice easy to understand video. Is it possible to install an inline damper using this pipe?
what a great video thanks
Check the pipe for being 'plumb', not 'level'.
Yes, but use a level to do it!
And not a 3 inch torpedo for 8’ of pipe
@@jackvillan5151 it’s fine. There are so many seams, it would be near impossible to use anything bigger
Is there a need for fireplace caulk at the seams for preventing smoke leakage? He didn't show it or mention it but he did say "while this is curing"..
No caulk is used on stove pipe. The draft carries the gases up and out. (remember this is a flue, not plumbing)
If you were to use sealing cement/caulk, you would NOT be able to disassemble the pipe when it comes time to clean it inside.
You could drill a 1/2” hole in your stove pipe. It’ll still draft up, not into the room.
I have the same problem as Scott Bulger my chimney adapter ring will not go into the support box. I have tried all i can think of and it just will not go. What did Scott Bulger do? looks like one of these items is defective, because there is no way I can find to get the adapter ring to go into the support box. What can I do to correct this problem without damage to either the support box or the adapter?
I would like to know about location and installation of the double wall damper? I thought a damper would be necessary even on the double wall stove pipe?
A damper is an optional on a stove pipe (not always needed). It depends on your draft strength and the type of stove.
Why didn't you install a damper?? Please let me know. I have a wood stove to put in, and always thought you need a damper.. so I'm puzzled.
Some people choose not to install damper if the stove already has adequate air control built into wood stove ect. It is something you definitely can install, but most often with newer stoves that have controlls to adjust precise primary and secondary air controlls, it is not needed, because those controls act as the damper
I did not know that thank you. And thank you for replying to my comment.👍
What about your damper?
Nothing was mentioned about the part in the ceiling or on the roof?
What needs to be done to protect the floors and walls from heat
My stove top adapter fits loose on the stove, what can i do to make that fit snug?
Just a note horizontal is level vertical is called plum👍
Plumb
Best install video out there. Thanks huge help ;)
great job explaining the process. thank you
Can you just hook the telescoping part up the DVL adaptor at the ceiling support....or do you need the 18" pipe?
Did you ever find the answer to this? I'm wondering the same thing for my project.
As far as I know has to do with code so would have to 18" pipe non telescoping.
can I turn a wood burning stove insert into a just a regular stove and what kind of pipes I need?
No
My stove has a 6" oval outlet. Any suggestion as to how to make the transition to round pipe?
***** Terrific! Thanks,
My stove is an Atlanta Stove Works, Model 27 (written on the door).
I only have one small area close to a combustible where I would need double wall pipe. Can I combine double wall pipe with single wall pipe to same money?
Great video.... I have a couple of questions.
1. I am using an 8" to 6" adapter on my stove. It has a collar on it, so my 6" telecoping pipe fits right over it. The holes in the adapter don't line up with the holes in the bottom of the telescoping stove pipe. Should I drill new holes in the adapter to attach it or just leave it sit on there?
2. I can't seem to find an answer to this in my instructions. The telescoping pipe has holes in the outer pipe. Of course there are no holes in the inner pipe. Do I drill holes through the inner pipe to attach it? Someone said just use the little screws that came with it to kind of "pinch" it to the inner pipe, but the screws won't go in with the outer wall of the inner pipe pushed up against the inner wall of the outer pipe.
THANKS!
Does the stove pipe need any sealing cement from one piece to the next? Iv not seen them close up and was just wondering what and if it needs sealing or if it does it itself ?
No sealing compound is used on stove pipe. The draft carries the gases up and out. (remember this is a flue, not plumbing)
If you were to use sealing cement, you would NOT be able to disassemble the pipe when it comes time to clean it inside.
+CenterTree777 thanks tree, I was just under the impression you insert the pipes in such a way that should tar flow back down the pipe, that it remained in the pipe, which would mean gases rising could, under a dodgy seal, naturally escape the flue.
I think his comment was in regards to the black finish heating up during the first burning.
is it possible to install a magic heat reclaimer on the double wall piping?
cool, thanks for the reply
I would recommend NOT using those "heat re-claimers". You ideally want to keep your flue gasses as HOT as possible going out the roof. A re-claimer would siphon heat off the pipe causing cooling of the gas and therefore increasing creosote. Heat with your stove, NOT your flue.
I would use it only on single-wall stove pipe, never double-walled.
Are there offsets for dvl pipe?
Excellent video, regardless that he said level when he should have said plumb.
Excellent video.
i need to Know how to REMOVE the Round ceiling support ( and the Square it is on attatched to the ceiling....
The square, attached to the ceiling, is nailed into support framing inside the ceiling. You would have to cut away the bottom of the square box, expose the nail heads and attempt to pry them out. It can be a chore to remove/repair if there's currently a chimney coming out of your roof.
Don't use a 6" torpido level to check for (plumb).
Use a 4' level yo check the pipe for (plimb) - not "level". Level is the horizontal direction.... and that's all I got to say about that.
Very informative video.
Why don't you put A damper in the pipe?
great joe. very helpful. we're having ours done here in japan as I type, and I'd wondered why they'd made a wooden cradle for the roof? not sure if the's the right word, but I was concerned that it's wooden. Suppose they will insulate correctly. hope ...
how did it go?
Great Video and I learned alot. I am replacing my stove FLUE today and btw - "Whitey-Titey" alert at 5:02. :) - lol - Thanks.
Where's your inline damper?
His stove had it so the pipe one isn’t needed or you buy the DVL pipe that already has it
I have a WoodPro 2000 stove. The stove top adapter will not get past the initial sealing ring. Spent 4 hours trying various ways to accomplish what he does in 5 seconds- still to no avail....Even tried fitting the bottom portion of the chimney pipe like it says in the instructions but it won't come within a quarter inch of aligning with the mounting holes on the stove. The stove's chimney inside diameter is 6". It can't be dremmeled (neither stove nor adapter), rubber malleted, twisted, turned, crimping or running around the stove 6 times singing hallelujah. NOTHING works! WTF???? Is the adapter defective? I would have to assume so since the one he had went right down to 1/2" to 3/4" of the stove top like it is supposed to. Mine wont get within 2 inches.
Helpful video 👍
I paid someone a lot of money to install my wood stove with double wall pipes. As a last step, he drilled holes around the upper edge of the pipe where it meets the wall in the outer layer of the pipe to vent it. At the wall, the pipe went into a connector but the holes for the flow of the heat between the two layers just went into the insulation. Those holes were blocked on the inside which is why he said he needed to drill the pipes. To me, with holes drilled, it defeats the purpose of having two layered pipes. Where those holes are drilled, they are single layered pipes now. Can you tell me if this is okay. Did I get a bad installation? Is the wood stove safe to operate like this. The installer gave me a certificate for the insurance company stating it is safe to use but I have some anxiety about it now.
Drilling through the outer pipe doesn't diminish the double-wall function of the pipe, because there is still air space between the hot inner and cooler outer walls, and the screws in the outer wall won't affect the insulating effect of that air space.
@@mattwalters5642 Thank you for your reply.
Duravent diagram instructions shows the telescoping goes on top and the 18 inch goes on the bottom closest to the stove. What is odd is the customer service for the same company this guy is from was firm in an email to me to make sure the telescoping pipe is closest to the support box and the 18 inch on bottom near stove.
why can't you just use the double-wall telescoping pipe from stove top adapter to the ceiling support box adapter. Is the 18 inch pipe needed because of the extra length needed? tks regards
Telescoping pipe is only so long. If the ceiling support box is higher than the max length of the telescoping pipe you have to add a piece of fixed length pipe to get it reach. If the stove is closer to the ceiling than the max length of telescoping pipe you don’t need a fixed length pipe.
So there is a small section of stove pipe that is NOT double walled!!
good info but should of put level on 18 inch before screwing
DVL double wall pipe is good for 6" not 8"
Why?
I thought that too. Clearance is cut down to 6".
a longer spirit level would be advisable
you are checking for plumb not level
Or vertical level.
Joe, you keep saying "level". Carpenters say PLUMB, when they want to express not leaning to one side or another. On a 4x4 lumber, you would place a level against the four sides to make sure it isn't leaning.
You skipped cutting through the roof completely! lol Isn't that part of it?
That's part of the chimney install not the stove pipe install
Why would you wanna use double wall pipe from the stove top up to the 18" double wall pipe that drops from ceiling ?
You lose the heat that would have radiated from the pipe ... forever .
Can you not run single wall pipe up to that 18" double wall pipe ?
Would you need another adapter at that connection .
Its god damned hard as fucking hell to find enough compatible parts in Southern Wv to pipe a new stove...omfkng !
The point of this vid is heat to combustible items. Single wall pipe, as you say, gives off more room heat, so as long as you have no clearance problems and or decor that can melt nearby. Otherwise double wall will insulate those areas if you see future problems.
I for one have a back wall mantle with decorations. Double wall keeps me from moving them while the stove is lite.
A 6' level would be better to use rather than a 6" one.
I bought instruction from woodprix and I build it very very cheap.
I do thank you for the install vid. But just have to say this. You cannot level anything that is vertical. You plumb it horizontal is leveling. Vertical is plumb!! Sorry man just been a carpenter for 28 years and it just bothers me when someone says level somthing vertical.
how much do i owe you haha
I am sure that you will find good way to make it on WoodPrix Webpage.
lol..edit the video out before you scratch the crap out of everything
Now where’s the part on top of the roof, easy to simply attach components but more difficult on top of the roof, waste of time.
The company in my town quoted me almost $2000 to do this same job. Line the pipe up, put in a few screws, $2000 dollars. Effing criminals.
I made it with Woodprix handbooks !
How do you disconnect? Trying to change the flooring and I can’t get it apart.