I rented one of these on Turo. I get its a minivan and I've driven plenty of minivans but the Odyssey was actually really nice to drive. The one I rented lived a hard life but still held up very well. Great video!
I learned a few things in this video., but you hit many of the items I experienced. As a owner of a 2013 for the last 8 years (got it slightly used), I will add, CV axel, especially the driver side (easier to remove) tends to go bad and cause vibration when accelerating at highway speeds. From my personal DIY experience at currently 160K, I have replaced struts (x2), swaybar links (x2), rear shocks (x2), Vtec solenoid gasket, Oil filter housing gasket, ALL motor mounts, CV Axels (driver side x3), Alternator, rotors and breaks (x3), rear lower spring rubber "seat", both front Lower control arms with ball joints, timing belt/water pump/ pully / tensioner, ATF fluid change every other oi l change to keep it clean, and the many p0420 which lead me to replace the catalytic convertors (pain to do). If it wasn't for the 2020 car shortage, I would have traded it in long ago and gotten me another minivan, but I am happy I didn't and kept myself out of a car debt.
I bought two Vans, 2011 and 2012 last month (Dec 2023), mileage is 230K and 210K. Your post helps me, or others determine what to maintain, especially the Vtec solenoid gasket and oil filter housing. Can you please share parts brands that are good and affordable? I'd like to know about the part price and how to change the catalytic converter? Thank you so much!!!
@@igl9273 try the spark plug anti fouler hack for the cats. Fixed my 07 for $12. If youre in CA or NY they MAY spot it in the visual inspection but they usually dont look for it unless you failed a test for that previously. I sanded the chrome off the spacers, got em wet smeared dirt on em and left em outside for a few days. So they matched everything else.
We’ll done and spot on! Just sold our 2012 Odyssey with 232k miles. Experienced most of the issues you mentioned. Interestingly, piston rings failed (misfire) at 62k miles and dealer rebuilt pistons. Had another misfire at 126k miles and dealer replaced the short block - both under extended warrantee from the class action lawsuit. Best family hauler we’ve owned and super comfortable on long trips.
Oh that would suck having one of those and had to come out of pocket to fix pistons and blocks that’s super expensive I’m nervous to even try and buy one these days because you just don’t know what going on with them especially with all the miles on some of these Odysseys people are selling these days!
Thank you sir! As an owner I can confirm the transmission issue, rear suspension issue, rotor warp, and timing belt tensioner issues are all real! I have added an aftermarket transmission cooler after a flush. Now I was on my way to change the front struts but sounds like the noise is actually due to the stabilizer links as you said.
Awesome video, I think you’ve nailed nearly everything I’ve replaced! Engine and trans are still good, but I’ve had to replace solenoid valve, which damaged alternator requiring a new alternator. Rear main seal replaced, nearly all of the front suspension replaced, and I’m on my 3rd power steering pump and 3rd set of motor mounts (bought aftermarket for the 2nd pair and they only lasted a couple years). Haven’t fixed the sliding door parts yet but it needs them. But this thing runs nice, really can’t complain. VCM tuner II installed and I change oil, power steering fluid and ATF all the time. Plus I use BG 44k and BG MOA regularly.
If you hear wind noise at the upper rear corner of the driver's door, there is a Technical Service Bulletin that covers the window seal repair. Headlignts are lousy. I "muzzled" my van after the rear bank piston rings were replaced. Rotors always "warp" before the pads wear out. Many claim there is a bedding in procedure that extends the life of the pads. KYB is the preferred brand of replacement shocks/struts. Changing the transmission fluid is easy. Need a long funnel to reach the filling plug on top of the transmission. Both CV axles have been replaced. Changing rear bank spark plugs is relatively easy. Van needs a lot of tending when driving on the highway. Looking for rear springs. Hope this helps.
I had a 2012 touring and only experienced only the leaking timing belt tensioner. Loved the van until the winter, so i finally got rid of it at 150,000km because how it handled in the winter. If you don't have harsh winters where you live, it's a great vehicle.
Just bought a 2011 with 141k miles for $7100. Its in great shape and super smooth. I bought a 3 year mechanical breakdown coverage because im scared of a transmission going out haha. Hopefully it does during these next 36,000 miles
Wow our 2011 has had many of the issues you mentioned. But I disabled the VCM so no oil consumption issues and I change the oil every 5000 kms. Excessive yes, but we want to keep this van for awhile yet. One thing not mentioned is the cables on the doors can break if not lubed regularly, especially right at the point where it bends and goes into the van. Also, the front control arm bushings go over time. One other item we had was the transmission solenoid went and caused hard shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear.
Honestly there’s so much to mention it’s ridiculous. I don’t lube the sliding door tracks because more times then not especially with kids crumbs stick to that stuff and on the outside dust and dirt makes itself up there. Thanks for your input
I have a 2015 Odyssey EXL and had the issue with the front rotors causing the front end to shake braking at high speeds. Great video as it gives me things to check and keep an eye on. If the Odyssey is over 100k miles and has not had the 100k service (replace timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, etc), I would bring that up in negotiation. I also plan on replacing the rear shocks at 100k because it's not that expensive and easy to do.
My dad had a 2016 odyssey it did have issues but not anymore we’ve use it for road trips now at 108k miles we planning going to BC Canada soon hopefully Arizona again lol.
As an owner of 2013 with 120k: the front rotors warp but getting premium rotors help (replaced 2x), front stabilizer links replaced, serpentine belt and tensioner, timing belt/roller/tensioner/h20 pump, battery, rear shocks, rear passenger spring bellow, exhaust leak, sparkplugs, radiator (small leak) and thermostat (housing had a tiny leak), i have replaced the rear brakes 2x
With basic maintenance, these odysseys are actually great vans. Just maintain the engines and transmissions regularly. I will admit in my experience, the 2006-2010 Odysseys are better in my experience. My 2006 Odyssey has 263,000 original miles on the transmission and it still shifts like new! Now my mom had a 2013 Odyssey and it was shifting super harsh through first gear since 110k miles, but she never changed the fluid.
Great video. Any info on the last point mentioned here? I test drove a 2011 with 120k ex-l and when I maintained about 40mph it was juttering with the eco light going on and off. Is this a deal breaker? I plan on muzzling vcm but didn't know it was a transmission issue.
I have a video on how to do a 3x trans flush and possibly having a software update done if needed. Not a deal breaker but maybe use that as leverage for negotiating. Can’t rule out if it’s too far gone could need a trans or torque converter. I’m able to save most of them tho.
2010 EXL has cost me $$$ to fix and maintain...😢 bought it with 90k and has 137k. Ive probably spent around 10k already.. I honestly regret having purchased it but with all the money dumped into it already and it being paid off, ill hold on to it as long as possible.
@Hondamobilemechanic I checked the Carfax, and it was decently maintained. For instance, the dealership replaced the timing belt tensioner at 90k and it needed to be replaced again at 130k.
Wow I drove my 2003 for 300000 miles and my 08 for 260000 miles Now I have a 2010 and it has 196000 and runs great None of them leaked oil and all of them ran great when I traded them in
That poor van hasn't gotten much love over the years. Honda's OEM parts availability is awful at the moment (late 2024) as I was not able to get several items for mine for a full suspension rebuild and ended up using (quality) aftermarket parts for the rebuild. Mine is a 2013 with 135k on the clock and everything in the suspension was pretty tired. Also, Honda does not sell the suspension bushings or ball joints individually so economical suspension work with OEM parts is not really possible. Honda parts aren't always the "best" but at least they're no worse than the originals. 😅Mine had a fair bit of rust underneath so I ended up replacing all of the control arms which come preloaded with new bushings. I used Mevotech for everything except shocks and struts, KYB there, and I'm very happy so far, but we're not even 1,000 miles down the road yet. OK - common issues (I should make a video about mine...) RUST! Vans used in the salt/rust belt, even for just a couple of years, need to be inspected for rust and aluminum corrosion. Anything more than minimal surface rust can and will complicate repairs. I could make a whole video on those issues alone. Look under/behind the inner fender liners, especially the rear, before buying if you can. TRANSMISSION - The majority of these never see any transmission fluid service. Which is baffling since Honda is one of few OEMs that actually provides a convenient way to do a partial drain & fill. Simpler than an engine oil change. If you see a trailer hitch with electrical (meaning there's a chance it wasn't just for a bike rack), look for a transmission cooler because many did not have the aux cooler installed from the factory or with the hitch. BRAKES - The original brakes are inadequate junk, full stop (or maybe not...) and these 4th Gen Ody's aren't as bad as the 2nd and 3rd gens were. Both Honda and the aftermarket still sell parts that don't perform as they should. Buy brakes for a 2015-2017 (only the rotors are different vs 2011-2014) or get the PowerStop Drilled/Slotted kits. The PowerStop kits are good, but noticeably noisy on hard braking vs OEM. The 2015+ brakes change the rotor cooling from being vented at the rear of the rotor to being vented at the front and they are just as quiet as the originals. CV AXLES - Not a matter of if, just when they will fail. Not worth the money for Honda OEM in my opinion as they live an average life. Same for most of the suspension/driveline really. LOWER CONTROL ARMS (Front) - Another Honda component that lasts an average amount of time and then must be replaced. Honda does not sell just the rear bushings (which is what fails first, every time) so if you want to use Honda OEM parts, you must buy the entire control arm to replace the $20 bushing, even if the forward bushing and outer ball joint are perfect. If you are replacing the lower control arms (OEM or aftermarket), the aluminum arms from the 2014-2017 vans are a direct swap from the original cast steel arms. Look close at the boots covering things like the tie-rods and ball joints, if they are dry, they will fail soon so either get new boots or plan to replace more suspension components while it's apart. FRONT SWAY BAR - The end links are well known to fail early and often and there are aftermarket options that are far more durable than OEM. The sway bar bushings themselves are easy (and dirt cheap) to replace and should be done when the end links are replaced to prevent them from shortening the life of the new links. FRONT STRUT MOUNTS - If you hear a popping noise when turning the steering side-to-side (vehicle stationary) the strut mounts are dry and either need to be lubricated with a special silicone grease or replaced. Good time to evaluate how much life the struts have left in them overall. REAR SPRINGS - Both the upper and lower seats are likely to be worn out on a 10+ year old van. Crunching or grinding noises when the suspension flexes are a good indicator the rear spring seats are shot. Uppers are Honda OEM only as far as I know (as of Dec 2024) and the lowers are just thin plastic that needs to be replaced about every 5 years on these. Those are embarrassingly inadequate IMO. Good news is that they are pretty easy to change. REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS - Similar issues to the front lower control arm rear bushings. These fail early and often, Honda doesn't sell just the bushing (but I believe the aftermarket does). Easy job to replace the entire arm. There's no way to torque the bolts that hold that bushing to the bar body with the suspension loaded so these are under constant strain leading them to fail early, especially on vans that frequently carry cargo or rear passengers. EXCESSIVE WIND NOISE - The rubber trim everywhere on these vans is usually shot by 5-7 years old unless the vehicle is garage-kept. Roof molding, windshield cowling and especially the exterior window glass belt lines which is where all the wind noise comes from. Currently the driver's side (left) front trim piece is unavailable from Honda (or aftermarket). This is the next job on mine when the parts are available.
Lol, now you tell me! Extremely helpful must see. I just bought 2016. The plugs fouling too? I put a can of Sea Foam every quarter in all my cars. Guess this one too. Great video!
2011 Odyssey Touring and I am having a rough shift between first and second gear at low speed. From my research, folks have said the 2nd clutch oil pressure switch could be at fault? have you run into this and if so, what has been the fix?
Hey, I just bought at 2016 EX-L with about 141k miles. My wife just called me and said the LDW, FCW and check engine light came on while driving home from the store. Image said it's running fine. I am going to take it tomorrow to O'Reilly's to have them scan the codes and see what's up. Sorta scared. It seems like I got a good buy.
Hey there I have a non working DRL on the passenger side of my van. Searching the net it might be a bad ground. I see the grounds at the bottom of the van on both sides of rad. I’ve changed bulb and checked fuse. Have you run into this issue before?
I’ve replaced a handful of rusted out atf cooler lines that bolt to the bottom of the rad on rust belt 11+ Odysseys. The bolts that fasten them to the rad break off sometimes and have to replace the rad as well. I imagine you’ve seen that a lot more than I have, I’m in Georgia and don’t work on rustbelt vehicles very often
Very thorough video! My 2016 74K mileage Odyssey had a misfire on #3 this past weekend this happened back in Oct also. Last time they just changed the oil and spark plugs and said keep an eye on the oil level. Now they said piston rings should be replaced for a cost of $3000. This is not covered by any extended warranty. Do you have any advice for me to try to get Honda to offer an extended warranty for this consumption issue on the 2016 like they did for the older models? What would you do?... It also has the judder you mentioned with the transmission. Thank you.
If you have Honda Care it should cover any engine work required. If it’s an aftermarket warranty they most likely won’t cover it. If you have solid maintenance records then I would present that to your dealer. If not it’s likely your going to be on your own unfortunately.
I bought a 2016 Braun handicap odyssey for my power chair bound son couple of years ago. Van looked great, drives great, I had timing belt & water pump replaced this year...but it has 94k and you guys r scaring me...with all these additional problems...I wish I had bought the Toyota van for few bucks more!
Hello everyone. I have a growing family. 2 kids now. Im planning to purchase an odyssey 2013 EXL 134k miles for 13k. Do you think is it worth it? What do I need to know before buying? Thanks.
Another common issue is the heated seats may stop working. Typically due to a break in heating element. Difficult repair. Something to check. Usually will turn in then shut off after a short time.
My 2011 needed an exhaust Y pipe and catalytic converter ($1700). 70000 miles. A while later started running very poorly due to it going into eco mode when it shouldn’t. Tricked it into running properly by unplugging oil pressure transmitters ( one on each head). Engine light always on now. Heater blows cold air on driver side, the usual RUclips fixes aren’t working.
Thanks for doing the video and showing the Honda main issues, If you were buying a van around 2015 which one would you recommend that can reach 300,000 same motor and transmission.
@@BCautosutions Ah! So, 5-speed automatic transmission lasts longer. Those models are 2011-2013 LX, EX, and EX-L. The 2011-2013 Touring and the Touring Elite are 6-AT. Also, do I need to change the internal transmission filter or just replace the fluid? Thanks so much for the info! This video is very helpful and many can benefit from it!
@@igl9273 yes the 5at is less troublesome. You could change the filter, absolutely although at higher mileages I would proceed with caution. Could do more harm then good
@BCautosolutions and that's why it's so confusing searching online for a answers. People say changing trans fluid good. People say it's bad. Then you say it's good and bad....
Thank you! I already made a video on it. Besides the recalls and the fakra mess (brand new bulletin out for that btw not mentioned in the video I made) it’s probably going to hold up the best long term. Here’s the video. ruclips.net/video/NO0vtwKW-xY/видео.html
Random question how tight should my red power steering cap be ? I purchased an OEM cap for my 2011 accord and the new one was much more tight than the one I had on currently. I was just curious if that mattered at all should it have a tight seal ?
That’s very odd, I think that may have been misdiagnosed tbh. I could be wrong but it’s not an issue with them. Anyways thanks for sharing and lmk how it goes 👍🏻
most looks like old issue carry from 04-10 don’t know why Honda still not fixing issue burning oil is on VCM, if you disable it most case, it will solve burning oil plus VCM does cause wear on the engine mount on the left side Front brakes just last two years, under design
Quick question boss:the Honda techs have replaced the ac compressor and condenser plus other parts on the 2010 EXL. Although the ac is better, the issue is still present. The issue is that after driving for an hour or so, a visible gas or fume comes out of the front ac vents, the temperature rises inside the cabin and the air doesn't blow as strong- even on the max Lo setting. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you.
Sounds like the Air Conditioning "Evaporator" may be leaking. A GOOD Shop that specializes in AC, should test the cold air coming out of the interior air ducts, and the Evaporator drain condensation water, for the presence of Refrigerant.
My Odyssey buying advice. DON’T! Entire websites dedicated to the inherent problems of these vehicles. Honda made no changes to improve. Contact Honda about the repetitive problems and they will continuously deny that a problem exists.
Fantastic list of common issues - owner of 2011 Ody with 211k miles. You are spot on. Thank you for putting this out there.
Thanks for watching!
I rented one of these on Turo. I get its a minivan and I've driven plenty of minivans but the Odyssey was actually really nice to drive. The one I rented lived a hard life but still held up very well. Great video!
My mom has one and it’s been great with tons of maintenance of course. Have to practice what I preach and it’s approaching 300k 💪🏼
@@BCautosutions
@@doanh1138 ?
I learned a few things in this video., but you hit many of the items I experienced. As a owner of a 2013 for the last 8 years (got it slightly used), I will add, CV axel, especially the driver side (easier to remove) tends to go bad and cause vibration when accelerating at highway speeds. From my personal DIY experience at currently 160K, I have replaced struts (x2), swaybar links (x2), rear shocks (x2), Vtec solenoid gasket, Oil filter housing gasket, ALL motor mounts, CV Axels (driver side x3), Alternator, rotors and breaks (x3), rear lower spring rubber "seat", both front Lower control arms with ball joints, timing belt/water pump/ pully / tensioner, ATF fluid change every other oi l change to keep it clean, and the many p0420 which lead me to replace the catalytic convertors (pain to do). If it wasn't for the 2020 car shortage, I would have traded it in long ago and gotten me another minivan, but I am happy I didn't and kept myself out of a car debt.
Appreciate your input and your dedication to the vehicle. Thanks for sharing
I bought two Vans, 2011 and 2012 last month (Dec 2023), mileage is 230K and 210K. Your post helps me, or others determine what to maintain, especially the Vtec solenoid gasket and oil filter housing. Can you please share parts brands that are good and affordable? I'd like to know about the part price and how to change the catalytic converter? Thank you so much!!!
@@igl9273 for gaskets and seals oem only. Same things with catalytic converters
@@igl9273 try the spark plug anti fouler hack for the cats. Fixed my 07 for $12. If youre in CA or NY they MAY spot it in the visual inspection but they usually dont look for it unless you failed a test for that previously. I sanded the chrome off the spacers, got em wet smeared dirt on em and left em outside for a few days. So they matched everything else.
We’ll done and spot on! Just sold our 2012 Odyssey with 232k miles. Experienced most of the issues you mentioned. Interestingly, piston rings failed (misfire) at 62k miles and dealer rebuilt pistons. Had another misfire at 126k miles and dealer replaced the short block - both under extended warrantee from the class action lawsuit. Best family hauler we’ve owned and super comfortable on long trips.
Awesome, appreciate your input on your personal experience
Oh that would suck having one of those and had to come out of pocket to fix pistons and blocks that’s super expensive I’m nervous to even try and buy one these days because you just don’t know what going on with them especially with all the miles on some of these Odysseys people are selling these days!
Vcm bypass fixes that issue
Thank you sir! As an owner I can confirm the transmission issue, rear suspension issue, rotor warp, and timing belt tensioner issues are all real! I have added an aftermarket transmission cooler after a flush. Now I was on my way to change the front struts but sounds like the noise is actually due to the stabilizer links as you said.
@@secondox your very welcome! Hope it all works out!
Awesome video, I think you’ve nailed nearly everything I’ve replaced! Engine and trans are still good, but I’ve had to replace solenoid valve, which damaged alternator requiring a new alternator. Rear main seal replaced, nearly all of the front suspension replaced, and I’m on my 3rd power steering pump and 3rd set of motor mounts (bought aftermarket for the 2nd pair and they only lasted a couple years). Haven’t fixed the sliding door parts yet but it needs them. But this thing runs nice, really can’t complain. VCM tuner II installed and I change oil, power steering fluid and ATF all the time. Plus I use BG 44k and BG MOA regularly.
Thanks for sharing!
You can't complain but you have replaced that many parts....
If you hear wind noise at the upper rear corner of the driver's door, there is a Technical Service Bulletin that covers the window seal repair.
Headlignts are lousy.
I "muzzled" my van after the rear bank piston rings were replaced.
Rotors always "warp" before the pads wear out.
Many claim there is a bedding in procedure that extends the life of the pads.
KYB is the preferred brand of replacement shocks/struts.
Changing the transmission fluid is easy.
Need a long funnel to reach the filling plug on top of the transmission.
Both CV axles have been replaced.
Changing rear bank spark plugs is relatively easy.
Van needs a lot of tending when driving on the highway. Looking for rear springs.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for you input.
I had a 2012 touring and only experienced only the leaking timing belt tensioner. Loved the van until the winter, so i finally got rid of it at 150,000km because how it handled in the winter. If you don't have harsh winters where you live, it's a great vehicle.
Thanks for sharing! 👍🏻
How does the tensioner leak?
@@JT-jg8le it relies on hydraulic pressure to maintain tension
Just bought a 2011 with 141k miles for $7100. Its in great shape and super smooth. I bought a 3 year mechanical breakdown coverage because im scared of a transmission going out haha. Hopefully it does during these next 36,000 miles
They rarely give out, just a bunch of juddering is typically their issue which can be resolved with aggressive fluid changes
Drain tranny fluid, drive empty, blow tranny. Then fill back up. Play dumb. 😅
Wow our 2011 has had many of the issues you mentioned. But I disabled the VCM so no oil consumption issues and I change the oil every 5000 kms. Excessive yes, but we want to keep this van for awhile yet. One thing not mentioned is the cables on the doors can break if not lubed regularly, especially right at the point where it bends and goes into the van. Also, the front control arm bushings go over time. One other item we had was the transmission solenoid went and caused hard shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear.
Honestly there’s so much to mention it’s ridiculous. I don’t lube the sliding door tracks because more times then not especially with kids crumbs stick to that stuff and on the outside dust and dirt makes itself up there. Thanks for your input
How many miles?
My van has 180k Kms on it right now
@@ChrisHsuCars 👏
People. Clean your engine bay.
😅
Why? Do you eat in it?
I have a 2015 Odyssey EXL and had the issue with the front rotors causing the front end to shake braking at high speeds. Great video as it gives me things to check and keep an eye on. If the Odyssey is over 100k miles and has not had the 100k service (replace timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, etc), I would bring that up in negotiation. I also plan on replacing the rear shocks at 100k because it's not that expensive and easy to do.
Great points. Thanks for sharing.
My dad had a 2016 odyssey it did have issues but not anymore we’ve use it for road trips now at 108k miles we planning going to BC Canada soon hopefully Arizona again lol.
Thanks for sharing
As an owner of 2013 with 120k: the front rotors warp but getting premium rotors help (replaced 2x), front stabilizer links replaced, serpentine belt and tensioner, timing belt/roller/tensioner/h20 pump, battery, rear shocks, rear passenger spring bellow, exhaust leak, sparkplugs, radiator (small leak) and thermostat (housing had a tiny leak), i have replaced the rear brakes 2x
I change my oil every 6k and I do a quick tranny drain and fill (3qt). Vcm muzzler installed at 100k.
@@Weak_juan thanks for sharing
With basic maintenance, these odysseys are actually great vans. Just maintain the engines and transmissions regularly. I will admit in my experience, the 2006-2010 Odysseys are better in my experience. My 2006 Odyssey has 263,000 original miles on the transmission and it still shifts like new! Now my mom had a 2013 Odyssey and it was shifting super harsh through first gear since 110k miles, but she never changed the fluid.
Thanks for sharing your input
Great video. Any info on the last point mentioned here? I test drove a 2011 with 120k ex-l and when I maintained about 40mph it was juttering with the eco light going on and off. Is this a deal breaker? I plan on muzzling vcm but didn't know it was a transmission issue.
I have a video on how to do a 3x trans flush and possibly having a software update done if needed. Not a deal breaker but maybe use that as leverage for negotiating. Can’t rule out if it’s too far gone could need a trans or torque converter. I’m able to save most of them tho.
2010 EXL has cost me $$$ to fix and maintain...😢 bought it with 90k and has 137k. Ive probably spent around 10k already.. I honestly regret having purchased it but with all the money dumped into it already and it being paid off, ill hold on to it as long as possible.
Problem is person before you probably didn’t maintain it and it all fell on you.
@Hondamobilemechanic I checked the Carfax, and it was decently maintained. For instance, the dealership replaced the timing belt tensioner at 90k and it needed to be replaced again at 130k.
@@savedby_grace6110 yeah that sucks, they do have a high fail rate for sure. Glad we have more in to a mechanical tensioner on the newest j series.
Wow I drove my 2003 for 300000 miles and my 08 for 260000 miles
Now I have a 2010 and it has 196000 and runs great
None of them leaked oil and all of them ran great when I traded them in
@@thomashenske6814 👍🏻
That poor van hasn't gotten much love over the years. Honda's OEM parts availability is awful at the moment (late 2024) as I was not able to get several items for mine for a full suspension rebuild and ended up using (quality) aftermarket parts for the rebuild. Mine is a 2013 with 135k on the clock and everything in the suspension was pretty tired. Also, Honda does not sell the suspension bushings or ball joints individually so economical suspension work with OEM parts is not really possible. Honda parts aren't always the "best" but at least they're no worse than the originals. 😅Mine had a fair bit of rust underneath so I ended up replacing all of the control arms which come preloaded with new bushings. I used Mevotech for everything except shocks and struts, KYB there, and I'm very happy so far, but we're not even 1,000 miles down the road yet.
OK - common issues (I should make a video about mine...)
RUST! Vans used in the salt/rust belt, even for just a couple of years, need to be inspected for rust and aluminum corrosion. Anything more than minimal surface rust can and will complicate repairs. I could make a whole video on those issues alone. Look under/behind the inner fender liners, especially the rear, before buying if you can.
TRANSMISSION - The majority of these never see any transmission fluid service. Which is baffling since Honda is one of few OEMs that actually provides a convenient way to do a partial drain & fill. Simpler than an engine oil change. If you see a trailer hitch with electrical (meaning there's a chance it wasn't just for a bike rack), look for a transmission cooler because many did not have the aux cooler installed from the factory or with the hitch.
BRAKES - The original brakes are inadequate junk, full stop (or maybe not...) and these 4th Gen Ody's aren't as bad as the 2nd and 3rd gens were. Both Honda and the aftermarket still sell parts that don't perform as they should. Buy brakes for a 2015-2017 (only the rotors are different vs 2011-2014) or get the PowerStop Drilled/Slotted kits. The PowerStop kits are good, but noticeably noisy on hard braking vs OEM. The 2015+ brakes change the rotor cooling from being vented at the rear of the rotor to being vented at the front and they are just as quiet as the originals.
CV AXLES - Not a matter of if, just when they will fail. Not worth the money for Honda OEM in my opinion as they live an average life. Same for most of the suspension/driveline really.
LOWER CONTROL ARMS (Front) - Another Honda component that lasts an average amount of time and then must be replaced. Honda does not sell just the rear bushings (which is what fails first, every time) so if you want to use Honda OEM parts, you must buy the entire control arm to replace the $20 bushing, even if the forward bushing and outer ball joint are perfect. If you are replacing the lower control arms (OEM or aftermarket), the aluminum arms from the 2014-2017 vans are a direct swap from the original cast steel arms. Look close at the boots covering things like the tie-rods and ball joints, if they are dry, they will fail soon so either get new boots or plan to replace more suspension components while it's apart.
FRONT SWAY BAR - The end links are well known to fail early and often and there are aftermarket options that are far more durable than OEM. The sway bar bushings themselves are easy (and dirt cheap) to replace and should be done when the end links are replaced to prevent them from shortening the life of the new links.
FRONT STRUT MOUNTS - If you hear a popping noise when turning the steering side-to-side (vehicle stationary) the strut mounts are dry and either need to be lubricated with a special silicone grease or replaced. Good time to evaluate how much life the struts have left in them overall.
REAR SPRINGS - Both the upper and lower seats are likely to be worn out on a 10+ year old van. Crunching or grinding noises when the suspension flexes are a good indicator the rear spring seats are shot. Uppers are Honda OEM only as far as I know (as of Dec 2024) and the lowers are just thin plastic that needs to be replaced about every 5 years on these. Those are embarrassingly inadequate IMO. Good news is that they are pretty easy to change.
REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS - Similar issues to the front lower control arm rear bushings. These fail early and often, Honda doesn't sell just the bushing (but I believe the aftermarket does). Easy job to replace the entire arm. There's no way to torque the bolts that hold that bushing to the bar body with the suspension loaded so these are under constant strain leading them to fail early, especially on vans that frequently carry cargo or rear passengers.
EXCESSIVE WIND NOISE - The rubber trim everywhere on these vans is usually shot by 5-7 years old unless the vehicle is garage-kept. Roof molding, windshield cowling and especially the exterior window glass belt lines which is where all the wind noise comes from. Currently the driver's side (left) front trim piece is unavailable from Honda (or aftermarket). This is the next job on mine when the parts are available.
@@GoFastGator wow, appreciate you thorough input. Thank you
Lol, now you tell me! Extremely helpful must see. I just bought 2016. The plugs fouling too? I put a can of Sea Foam every quarter in all my cars. Guess this one too. Great video!
@@MinnesotaBeekeeper thank you!
I have a '13 Odyssey w/78K miles. Mileage per year
Timing belt yes, coolant will be done with timing belt package. Spark plugs wouldn’t hurt either but not as nearly important as the timing belt.
Thank u very much, im trying to decide if i want a 2016 honda odyssey or 2015 dodge grand caravan....
Odyssey imo
Sounds like the Odyssey is not so good and the Chrysler has a bad defect reputation. @@BCautosutions
@@mikeceli both have plenty of issues
That's what I said. @@BCautosutions
"The Car Wizard" (youtube) says 2012 and newer is OK. What say you?
2011 Odyssey Touring and I am having a rough shift between first and second gear at low speed. From my research, folks have said the 2nd clutch oil pressure switch could be at fault? have you run into this and if so, what has been the fix?
Yes. Replace the switch and perform a trans drain/fill.
Hey, I just bought at 2016 EX-L with about 141k miles. My wife just called me and said the LDW, FCW and check engine light came on while driving home from the store. Image said it's running fine. I am going to take it tomorrow to O'Reilly's to have them scan the codes and see what's up. Sorta scared. It seems like I got a good buy.
@@Anthony-nt8vf lmk what the code is. My hunch is cat codes p0420/p0430
Hey there I have a non working DRL on the passenger side of my van. Searching the net it might be a bad ground. I see the grounds at the bottom of the van on both sides of rad. I’ve changed bulb and checked fuse. Have you run into this issue before?
There’s a break on the ground circuit, very common. You can either track it down or make your own which is typically what I end up doing.
Took to my dealer and it was a bad ground. Thanks!
@@ChrisHsuCars figured that much. Your welcome
I’ve replaced a handful of rusted out atf cooler lines that bolt to the bottom of the rad on rust belt 11+ Odysseys. The bolts that fasten them to the rad break off sometimes and have to replace the rad as well. I imagine you’ve seen that a lot more than I have, I’m in Georgia and don’t work on rustbelt vehicles very often
Yes yes yes! Unfortunately that does happen for sure. Appreciate the input, can’t remember them all tbh 😅
The headlights need refinished on them quite often too
@@mkeimayne85 true
Yep
Very thorough video! My 2016 74K mileage Odyssey had a misfire on #3 this past weekend this happened back in Oct also. Last time they just changed the oil and spark plugs and said keep an eye on the oil level. Now they said piston rings should be replaced for a cost of $3000. This is not covered by any extended warranty. Do you have any advice for me to try to get Honda to offer an extended warranty for this consumption issue on the 2016 like they did for the older models? What would you do?... It also has the judder you mentioned with the transmission. Thank you.
If you have Honda Care it should cover any engine work required. If it’s an aftermarket warranty they most likely won’t cover it. If you have solid maintenance records then I would present that to your dealer. If not it’s likely your going to be on your own unfortunately.
@@BCautosutions.. damn all these problems makes me not even want one anymore sheeesh
@@hollywoodthedj1673 just have to stay on top of maintenance for the most part
Get a vcm muzzler that will do it
I bought a 2016 Braun handicap odyssey for my power chair bound son couple of years ago. Van looked great, drives great, I had timing belt & water pump replaced this year...but it has 94k and you guys r scaring me...with all these additional problems...I wish I had bought the Toyota van for few bucks more!
Hello everyone. I have a growing family. 2 kids now. Im planning to purchase an odyssey 2013 EXL 134k miles for 13k. Do you think is it worth it? What do I need to know before buying? Thanks.
Take a mechanic with you and look at everything I mentioned
Wow, amazing and thorough! Can you please do the same for the 2018 and up?
Already did here’s the video. ruclips.net/video/NO0vtwKW-xY/видео.html
Another common issue is the heated seats may stop working. Typically due to a break in heating element. Difficult repair. Something to check. Usually will turn in then shut off after a short time.
@@briangebert8224 that is correct in the higher trims with the heated seats 💯
My Eco mode went out. What do I look for?
Do you have a check engine light?
My 2011 needed an exhaust Y pipe and catalytic converter ($1700). 70000 miles. A while later started running very poorly due to it going into eco mode when it shouldn’t. Tricked it into running properly by unplugging oil pressure transmitters ( one on each head). Engine light always on now. Heater blows cold air on driver side, the usual RUclips fixes aren’t working.
@@track1219 probably needs a heater core
Thanks for doing the video and showing the Honda main issues, If you were buying a van around 2015 which one would you recommend that can reach 300,000 same motor and transmission.
I would pick one without the 6at so the lower trims. Absolutely they can reach 300k.
@@BCautosutions Ah! So, 5-speed automatic transmission lasts longer. Those models are 2011-2013 LX, EX, and EX-L. The 2011-2013 Touring and the Touring Elite are 6-AT. Also, do I need to change the internal transmission filter or just replace the fluid? Thanks so much for the info! This video is very helpful and many can benefit from it!
@@igl9273 yes the 5at is less troublesome. You could change the filter, absolutely although at higher mileages I would proceed with caution. Could do more harm then good
@BCautosolutions and that's why it's so confusing searching online for a answers. People say changing trans fluid good. People say it's bad. Then you say it's good and bad....
How can i add a navigation display in 2013 model
@@TheJeromejeen pups require at minimum a dash harness replacement.
Good stuff. Would also love to know issues with current gen as in the market for a van. Which generation would you recommend for reliability?
Thank you! I already made a video on it. Besides the recalls and the fakra mess (brand new bulletin out for that btw not mentioned in the video I made) it’s probably going to hold up the best long term. Here’s the video. ruclips.net/video/NO0vtwKW-xY/видео.html
Random question how tight should my red power steering cap be ? I purchased an OEM cap for my 2011 accord and the new one was much more tight than the one I had on currently. I was just curious if that mattered at all should it have a tight seal ?
Yeah they loosen up over time. Some fluid seepage can happen as they loosen up but nothing serious
Looking like back to a sienna......
@@RetiredAtenPilot ✅✅
2019 Honda Pilot owner
32000 miles and it needs new injectors, premium gas , oil changes at 4500 miles, filter every 10k
That’s very odd, I think that may have been misdiagnosed tbh. I could be wrong but it’s not an issue with them. Anyways thanks for sharing and lmk how it goes 👍🏻
2015 Odyssey, only 68k miles and the Rack and pinion is suddenly leaking, and now shot! 😭
Sorry to hear
@Hondamobilemechanic Thank You, it's ok, I got a done from the salvage for only $105🙏🏽
@@Jaeslecan Nice
I had the piston ring issue with my 2016 Odyssey and they screwed me.
What happened?
Vcm bypass muzzle
It appears the second generation was trash and the third generation had a lot of problems. What years do you recommend a Honda Odyssey
Probably this generation as long as you change the oil and trans fluid they are relatively reliable
96 were solid
most looks like old issue carry from 04-10
don’t know why Honda still not fixing issue
burning oil is on VCM, if you disable it
most case, it will solve burning oil
plus VCM does cause wear on the engine mount on the left side
Front brakes just last two years, under design
Infrequent oil changes cause more harm them the vcm will ever. Also all the torque causes west on the mount not vcm.
My eco mode does not come on. Gas mileage sux. Check engine light does not come on.
If you bought used it might have a vcm delete. It does impact MPG.
Quick question boss:the Honda techs have replaced the ac compressor and condenser plus other parts on the 2010 EXL. Although the ac is better, the issue is still present.
The issue is that after driving for an hour or so, a visible gas or fume comes out of the front ac vents, the temperature rises inside the cabin and the air doesn't blow as strong- even on the max Lo setting. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you.
Sounds like the Air Conditioning "Evaporator" may be leaking. A GOOD Shop that specializes in AC, should test the cold air coming out of the interior air ducts, and the Evaporator drain condensation water, for the presence of Refrigerant.
this odyssey looks so beat up.... she must been through a lot
They typically are although we get some that are surprisingly well maintained
Piston rings 😅
Yup
My Odyssey buying advice. DON’T!
Entire websites dedicated to the inherent problems of these vehicles. Honda made no changes to improve.
Contact Honda about the repetitive problems and they will continuously deny that a problem exists.
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