I enjoyed this. Good info for new owners as well as people like myself. I've had my '03 5.9 that I bought brand new. I'm not a mechanic, but I have done many of the easier tasks related to the common weak points of the truck, including the cracked up dash and the heater/Air doors that strip out. The FCA caused problems for me, and I think it is a common thing on the 5.9. Seeping transmission lines also. I have been told to keep a spare Crank position sensor on board too. I need to order one.
Great video man, very helpful information included! Been watching your stuff for a while now and you are the most scientific cummins channel I've ever seen, love how you back a lot of your stuff up with data. Keep up the good work bro!
you have to watch out about cracking the case when putting in their fittings. I'm dealing with a cracked hole for the return side that's next to the overdrive housing. I think it cracked when I was removing the old fitting and it cracked more when putting the new fitting in.
Before you ever test drive the truck, make sure the engine is cold and start it and check for blowby, if possible ask them to not start it before you get there. It will have more blowby when it's cold. When the rings warm up after a test drive the blowby can go away because the rings warm up and seat.
Thanks alot for all the info you helped me alot im about to buy a 2005 with 210,000 miles but has a new motor with 60k miles on rust free little sweat on the diff
Love this video. Very realistic assessment of where to find leaks and what to look for when buying a cummins 3rd gen plus a realistic undercarriage helps. Most undercarriages you see online are spotless, not what you see in the real world.
If you get a 3rd get ... If it has not been upgraded assume you will need to upgrade the linkage, gearbox , ball joints and trac bar, upgrade the fuel filter and replace the injectors at some point.
I just ran the overhead on my ‘08, I don’t think it’s ever been done judging by how hard it was to pry off the valve cover. Ended up with a split valve cover gasket, so that was fun. Unbelievable how quiet the engine is now. I guess after 210k miles, it was due.
I ended up trading my 09 in. I loved the truck but too many problems and a money pit. Unless you can delete it yourself though and where i live i cant the regen sucks ass and the DPF was a pain in the ass!
Excellent video! So funny you mentioned the rpm cluster on the 06 because mine started misreading after 150k miles. I just left it though, because when I do long distance trips it finds itself. As long as my speed one works I’m happy although when I put on larger tires with the stock gearing it wouldn’t read sometimes it would give up and just stay at 0mph even though I was flying on the highway lol. Ever since I upgraded the clutch and gears though it drives better than it has in years. I’m looking at 2018 g56 Cummins 2500 4x4s now, but definitely would want it deleted after purchasing. Otherwise I Gota look at 2011s.
I'm looking into purchasing a 2007 3500, based on what you said about the emission or EGR are you suggesting maybe to stay away from this particular years model truck?
as an '06 owner.. "yup, got that" "yup, replaced that twice" "yup, haven't addressed that yet" I've replaced 4 injector solenoids (left the injector installed and just pulled and replaced the solenoid). Front and rear main oil seals need to be replaced. Just learned today that my trans fluid/engine coolant heat exchanger has failed because I have the milky white goodness. One more thing, take normal auto parts expenses and x3 because Diesel. Liked and subscribed.
I love my 06 5.9, g56, manual transfer case..I don't ever plan on selling. I bugged my brother (1st owner) for 15yrs to get it. Called me when the water pump failed in the field and I dragged it home
Gr8 Video. Sounds like my 03 2wd is a SO 250hp with the 47re... unfortunately but hey its at 180k on stock power My tps may be bad since it randomly surges and goes in a high rpm before shifting into the next gear but when I park it and put it back in drive its normal.
@@OutpostCTD thats one thing with it being slow, more reliable for sure thats why the trans is still goin. But my tps is probably done for since it hangs in gear and doesnt want to move unless I push the pedal down further and it hits 2500k rpm before it shifts
@@OutpostCTD I'm looking at a 07 2500 Cummins with 335k it sounds okay when I went to look at it,no rust air works engine doesn't show any signs of leak....what you think??. it's a local dealer down the street from my house!.
@@santanikx9 Could it have been a special order? I was in a discussion yesterday on TDR about rear drive shaft U joints on 03 trucks. The manual trucks had a larger U-joint than the autos 1485 versus a 1415.
No CATs until 06.5. My 06 had a muffler from factory. Also, ive still got the original injectors at 235k miles. I just use Lucas injector lube/clean every 2 weeks
I have swapped both my radiators with Spectra radiators which is basically OEM and they last 200-300k miles usually before the tanks crack and leak. Some like mishimoto which offers aluminum tanks but I’m not sure they cook much better if at all. What temps are you seeing? These engines like to be in the 190s for optimum efficiency.
@@OutpostCTD I’m buying a 04 2500 today with 266k miles. He races midget light cars so I’m assuming a lot of miles are towing that to races so I’m kinda nervous? This will be my first diesel so I’m watching a lot of your videos. I need to know about proper maintenance and I feel like I should start on radiator then trans? Maybe front suspension next?
I’m getting an 2005 2500 diesel from my father in law and was curious where do I add the DEF I know the newer ones it’s under the fuel cap but not on this one
so iv read a lot about the power per year and whatnot, my trucks an early 04 with the 6 speed but the valve cover cover says it comes stock with 325hp so im a tad bit confused
I just bought an 2004.5 Cummins after a month I got a check engine light with a code of p2609 I replaced both of the relays. I guess I’m missing something because I can’t seem to get the code to go away. Any thoughts on what to check at start up the heater grid cycles like it should I’m at a loss
If you didn't clear the code with a scan tool or anything the code may go away on its own after a few cycles (probably after 3 times) of starting and shutting off the truck if issue is resolved.
Man would love to look y’all up for input as I’m looking at getting either an 06/07 very soon,but have never owned a diesel,currently have the 06 megacab which I love
@@Dieselpwr yes I understand. Some minor vibration usually isn’t a big deal. But it is common on these trucks to have the front or rear driveshaft cause some shaking at higher speeds. That’s the main thing I wanted people to check for.
Thank you. I’m about to buy a 2005 2500 5.9 Cummins tomorrow and I’ve been typing all this in my notes. Haha thank you.
Very helpful, im looking at a few 3rd gen cummins at dealerships around me and trying to find what to look for in issues. Thanks for the Vid!
I enjoyed this. Good info for new owners as well as people like myself. I've had my '03 5.9 that I bought brand new. I'm not a mechanic, but I have done many of the easier tasks related to the common weak points of the truck, including the cracked up dash and the heater/Air doors that strip out. The FCA caused problems for me, and I think it is a common thing on the 5.9. Seeping transmission lines also. I have been told to keep a spare Crank position sensor on board too. I need to order one.
Great video man, very helpful information included! Been watching your stuff for a while now and you are the most scientific cummins channel I've ever seen, love how you back a lot of your stuff up with data. Keep up the good work bro!
Thank you! Check out Marion blair’s channel. He’s good with the data also.
@@OutpostCTD I'm looking at a 07 2500 diesel Cummins with 335k. what you think?.
You really have passion for Cummins knowledge
Get the 3rd gen trans cooler lines from power driven diesel, they’re the best lines hands down.
you have to watch out about cracking the case when putting in their fittings. I'm dealing with a cracked hole for the return side that's next to the overdrive housing. I think it cracked when I was removing the old fitting and it cracked more when putting the new fitting in.
Very informative and to the point.
Before you ever test drive the truck, make sure the engine is cold and start it and check for blowby, if possible ask them to not start it before you get there. It will have more blowby when it's cold. When the rings warm up after a test drive the blowby can go away because the rings warm up and seat.
thats for any vehicle. but its a very good sign if its cold and not warmed up before you got there. which is a concern to them hiding them something
Thanks for video man ..going to look at one and this helped bug time cheers
That was great intel ! Thanks
Fantastic video bud!
Thanks alot for all the info you helped me alot im about to buy a 2005 with 210,000 miles but has a new motor with 60k miles on rust free little sweat on the diff
And I wouldn't worry about oil leaks from the oulpan it's easy to do. It's the front and rear main seals you want to look for.
I’m looking at getting one in the near future for myself as i’d like to be back in a truck and much prefer something that i can rely on
Love this video. Very realistic assessment of where to find leaks and what to look for when buying a cummins 3rd gen plus a realistic undercarriage helps. Most undercarriages you see online are spotless, not what you see in the real world.
Grabbing the tire up and down can also reveal wheel bearing play
Great video, subbed.
dang. super helpful. thanks.
If you get a 3rd get ... If it has not been upgraded assume you will need to upgrade the linkage, gearbox , ball joints and trac bar, upgrade the fuel filter and replace the injectors at some point.
I just ran the overhead on my ‘08, I don’t think it’s ever been done judging by how hard it was to pry off the valve cover. Ended up with a split valve cover gasket, so that was fun. Unbelievable how quiet the engine is now. I guess after 210k miles, it was due.
How that truck running todate?
Had many Dodge Cummins 1st, 2nd and third and all had serious blend door problems and very expensive to repair around $1,000 to $1,500
Great video, very informative!
Awesome video ❤❤❤
I ended up trading my 09 in. I loved the truck but too many problems and a money pit. Unless you can delete it yourself though and where i live i cant the regen sucks ass and the DPF was a pain in the ass!
Excellent video! So funny you mentioned the rpm cluster on the 06 because mine started misreading after 150k miles. I just left it though, because when I do long distance trips it finds itself. As long as my speed one works I’m happy although when I put on larger tires with the stock gearing it wouldn’t read sometimes it would give up and just stay at 0mph even though I was flying on the highway lol. Ever since I upgraded the clutch and gears though it drives better than it has in years. I’m looking at 2018 g56 Cummins 2500 4x4s now, but definitely would want it deleted after purchasing. Otherwise I Gota look at 2011s.
the 06 to 08 dash and front clip will just bolt onto 03 to 05 style 3gens. my truck had it done before i got it
Why though? The earlier nose looks better to me.
I'm looking into purchasing a 2007 3500, based on what you said about the emission or EGR are you suggesting maybe to stay away from this particular years model truck?
Looking at an early 2004 with 170k miles… thanks for the info
as an '06 owner..
"yup, got that"
"yup, replaced that twice"
"yup, haven't addressed that yet"
I've replaced 4 injector solenoids (left the injector installed and just pulled and replaced the solenoid). Front and rear main oil seals need to be replaced. Just learned today that my trans fluid/engine coolant heat exchanger has failed because I have the milky white goodness.
One more thing, take normal auto parts expenses and x3 because Diesel.
Liked and subscribed.
Haha, couldn’t be more true.
Gotta replace my tie rods tomorrow and I just heard about the gauges reading wrong.
Jus dodge things…
Looking at buying a 06 2wd crew cab this week. Its a auto and only has 135k miles on it. I can get it for 18k is this a do or a dont.
@@MrMelvinkennedy1 I got mine for 18.5 it depends on the truck mine has 238k miles on it
@@calebcarroll1572 awesome thanks for the reply
How does a blow by test work if the cover is already vented to atmosphere?
I have a 2007 5.9 with a g56, hopefully never have to buy another truck.
Hey I have the same truck lmao
@@Justin_Cp3 hey me too lol
Mines an 05 but also has a g56. Great truck and love the transmission. I'm hoping to run mine for the long run too
🤣 I had to chime in bc..... I have the same rig
I love my 06 5.9, g56, manual transfer case..I don't ever plan on selling. I bugged my brother (1st owner) for 15yrs to get it. Called me when the water pump failed in the field and I dragged it home
Liked and subscribed, what would year would you purchase?
04.0 would be my top choice. I like 03 as well. Finally 07.0 5.9 would be another good year to get the newest 5.9 you can.
Gr8 Video. Sounds like my 03 2wd is a SO 250hp with the 47re... unfortunately but hey its at 180k on stock power
My tps may be bad since it randomly surges and goes in a high rpm before shifting into the next gear but when I park it and put it back in drive its normal.
I like the SOs myself. They are a bit slow but extremely reliable.
@@OutpostCTD thats one thing with it being slow, more reliable for sure thats why the trans is still goin. But my tps is probably done for since it hangs in gear and doesnt want to move unless I push the pedal down further and it hits 2500k rpm before it shifts
@@OutpostCTD I'm looking at a 07 2500 Cummins with 335k it sounds okay when I went to look at it,no rust air works engine doesn't show any signs of leak....what you think??. it's a local dealer down the street from my house!.
Could a throttle position sensor on its way out cause choppy idle
So what if a kid that’s a diesel mechanic get a 6.7 ? what should he whatch out for ?
My 05 doesn’t have the sensor on the motor the door says it’s a 04.5
my 04 had nothing but a muffler on the truck the sticker says it was built 10/2003
Is that for automatics only? This is a 6 speed manuel
What About Dodge Ram 2500 1997 OR 1999 With Hemi Gasoline Engine.
What could I expect from a 06 with 264k asking 24k?
Found one bad trans bad transfer case for 2500 going get it in a couple days
I’ve read before that the 2003 HO model only came with the NV5600 six speed. Later years had the auto as well, but ‘03 HO was NV5600 only.
Correct, I daily an 03 NV56. You could get a HO in 04 or later with an automatic. HO in 03 was only manual.
@@mylesswann530 thought so. Love my ‘03 👍🏼
Not in canada i do own one 03 3500 HO 4x4 cummins with the 48re i think its only the duallys, mine isnt a dually and its been constructed on 05/2003
@@santanikx9 Could it have been a special order? I was in a discussion yesterday on TDR about rear drive shaft U joints on 03 trucks. The manual trucks had a larger U-joint than the autos 1485 versus a 1415.
@@mylesswann530 i have no idea to be honest, but i could give you my vin for proof.
No CATs until 06.5. My 06 had a muffler from factory. Also, ive still got the original injectors at 235k miles. I just use Lucas injector lube/clean every 2 weeks
My 05 had a cat and a muffler
If we gonna look for imperfections is better to go straight to the dealer for a brand new truck
What wheels?
My friend right where your trans lines are your bell houseing is cracked I seen it in your video. Driver side of the trans.
Does anyone know the size of hex head socket used to take the FILL plug out of a 2003 Ram NV5600 6 speed transmission? Thanks.
My guess is 17mm allen
What radiator would you recommend? Nothing insane but a brand that will really keep it running colder
I have swapped both my radiators with Spectra radiators which is basically OEM and they last 200-300k miles usually before the tanks crack and leak. Some like mishimoto which offers aluminum tanks but I’m not sure they cook much better if at all. What temps are you seeing? These engines like to be in the 190s for optimum efficiency.
@@OutpostCTD I’m buying a 04 2500 today with 266k miles. He races midget light cars so I’m assuming a lot of miles are towing that to races so I’m kinda nervous? This will be my first diesel so I’m watching a lot of your videos. I need to know about proper maintenance and I feel like I should start on radiator then trans? Maybe front suspension next?
What’s the best Cummins motor would you recommend? Thanks
5.9
Are those trucks for sale
👍
Damn, this is making me think they're all basket cases.
I’m getting an 2005 2500 diesel from my father in law and was curious where do I add the DEF I know the newer ones it’s under the fuel cap but not on this one
There is no DEF required on a 2005. DEF didn’t start until 2013
@@OutpostCTD thank you for the quick response so I’m your opinion is that a good or bad quality of the truck?
@@zechariahcifuentes7002 all restrictions they out on diesels, EGT DEF u name it they all suck thats why everyone deletes their truck.
so iv read a lot about the power per year and whatnot, my trucks an early 04 with the 6 speed but the valve cover cover says it comes stock with 325hp so im a tad bit confused
325 should be an 04.5 high output
@@MsMrhawk right but mines a February of 04 truck, maybe it's a unicorn
@@brianjazek7769 FCA started in January of 2004 with the 325 HP HO. It is kind of misnomer to say it is a 2004.5.
I just bought an 2004.5 Cummins after a month I got a check engine light with a code of p2609 I replaced both of the relays. I guess I’m missing something because I can’t seem to get the code to go away. Any thoughts on what to check at start up the heater grid cycles like it should I’m at a loss
If you didn't clear the code with a scan tool or anything the code may go away on its own after a few cycles (probably after 3 times) of starting and shutting off the truck if issue is resolved.
Blow by into your valve cover is a matter of the valve seals not piston rings
@@Knucklehead4400 yeah I was wrong 👍
looking at a 03 how do i tell if its a HO or SO?
If you have the vin number and the 8th digit is a 6 then it is an SO. And if it is a C then it is an HO
@@OutpostCTDis that also true with the early 2004’s?
Are u in the bay st Louis/ Waveland area that area looks familiar
Yes indeed
@@OutpostCTD we need to get up and go ride, I have a 3rd gen my buddy does too and u can use our trucks for content lol
@@davidsimmons568 oh nice that sounds great
Man would love to look y’all up for input as I’m looking at getting either an 06/07 very soon,but have never owned a diesel,currently have the 06 megacab which I love
It’s a used truck vibration what a joke lol
My truck drives smoothly with over 400k miles. I would accept nothing less.
@@OutpostCTD
sounds picky to me it’s a truck
@@Dieselpwr yes I understand. Some minor vibration usually isn’t a big deal. But it is common on these trucks to have the front or rear driveshaft cause some shaking at higher speeds. That’s the main thing I wanted people to check for.
i almost cried when i saw that ripped center console, it looks like a dog got to it 🤢😭