I still have my 04 Dodge Cummins I bought new. It has about 280k miles. I replaced all the injectors with new Bosch stock units, hard lines and CP3 pump at 265 k. Last winter I had the trans and torque converter rebuilt and up graded with a deep pan and billet converter,etc. I did a total front suspension rebuild with every u joint replaced and wheel bearings. Steering box brace was also added. This winter I want to do the body work (almost no rust because I’m in Colorado) and paint, new front seat cushions and stereo with camera. The truck runs and drives great, almost like new.
Wow I bought the same year and specs of your truck about 2 years ago for 14.8k and thought that was a good deal…with 128k miles. I still need to do body work as well. Great deal man
You are wrong about the rear diff cover from the aftermarket part. Just because it has the ability to add more fluid does not necessarily make it better nor does that help in reducing heat. Banks has a set of videos showing the results of aftermarket rear diff covers..
@@herminioorozco508 ever been inside a dodge rear diff? Obviously not. They use the shape of the cover to take fluid flung from the ring gear to lubricate the outer pinion bearing instead of an oil slinger on the pinion itself. As the banks videos have shown, most aftermarket diff covers aren't shaped correctly and will ruin a dodge diff in short order. Perhaps you should know what you're talking about before you talk shit.
Very nice review. I have a 2006 slt 4x4. I'd recommend a new rear driveshaft. My truck had always had a mild vibration no matter if I replaced the u joints or not. I bought a 5in aluminum drive line from Texas driveline. My truck drives amazing now with 168000 on the clock. No more vibration.
The clear coat is fine with the later 3rd gens i think anyways... if it's peeling or fading around the hood, could be a signal that she's been ran hot 🔥
I was told it’s a single stage paint so clear coat is mixed in with paint so if you get a paint job you want a 2-3 stage paint job primer color and then clear coat !
Bought an 07 2500 with a June build date and a 6.7 Cummins w/ a 68rfe. I’m absolutely in love with this truck. I’ve put about 35,000-40,000 miles on it. It’s got about 243,000 on it now. Everything works except for a couple of burnt out dash lights behind the hvac controls. Truck had a shimmy between 65-75mph when purchased, but I got a pretty good deal on it. Rebalanced the tires, made no difference. Changed to stock rims and tires, no change. Truck progressively got worse as I drove it, by august of this year I couldn’t go down the freeway with a trailer without crapping my drawers. Jacked it up, tore the front end down. Ball joints were junk, steering linkage was garbage, stabilizer was leaking, typical stuff for a 240,000 mile truck. Put new tires and wheels on before this because I found out my steel wheels were bent, and after the new shoes it became un-drive able. That prompted me to do the aforementioned tear down above. Tire shop cranked a bunch of negative caster into it and it’s infinitely better. The only problem, it that the shimmy is still there. It comes and goes and you can feel it in the chair. The front end is done minus the control arm bushings, the u joints all seem tight, nothing seems to be leaking, the two piece driveshaft got replaced with a one piece aluminum one by the previous owner. I’m running out of parts to replace and I’m worried that I bought someone else’s headache. I’m getting tired of going down the freeway at either 62 with the trucks or 85 in the fast lane. Any ideas on what to look for sitting in the driveway with a flashlight?
Hey! We've got a couple ideas: -That one-piece driveshaft is where we're guessing, if it wasn't balanced correctly that could for sure make a vibration through the seat. Check on it for evidence of any weights having come off. They're usually tacked on and have been known to fly off. I had that happen on my car -Double-check those wheels, same thing their weights could have come off causing that vibration. Sometimes if wheels are pumped out quick the weights will be slightly off -Another driveway check is your torque converter could be loose. Take off that inspection panel on the bell housing and check to make sure its got no play. -Lastly would be the u-joints like you said, double-check the ones surrounding both front and rear driveshafts. Seat vibrations are usually (but not always) driveline vibrations Hope this helps!
@@dirtydieselcustom thank you for the quick reply. I’m pretty new to these 3rd gens and I’m still learning. I had a superduty before this. I’m going over to my buddy’s shop this weekend. We’ll jack it up and go down the list. Really appreciate it and I’m glad to see videos with really good information in them. 👍
@@crenulatemist6531 at this point, I think I’ve finally narrowed it down. It changes with steering input. If I let the truck track itself down the road, it will clear up and stop shaking... if I give it any left or right it starts shaking again. First order of business is that my leveling kit is coming out. Next I’m replacing my stock track bar with another stock track bar, stock control arm replacement, and a couple of other things. Basically, it’s going back to a completely stock front end configuration so that the steering geometry is correct. I know that I’m gonna catch flack from the Cumminsforum guys for it, but it’s my work truck... so I need to make sure it’s gonna go down the road.
Ive owned a 2004.5 2500 turbo Cummins, lifted, leveled, 35" tires since 2008. It had what you describe (and yes it's enough for a coherent adult to shit themselves) I researched, researched, researched and researched some more ( wanted to get it right first time) I decided on a long arm control kit. Had a diesel shop install and I no longer pack an extra change of pants 😉
I bought my 06’ last year. Lifted, 5.9 24v 120,000 miles. Badass right , no! Since last year I have dumped 10,000 into truck to keep running. I ended up only putting 10,000 miles on truck before transfer case blew out. Replaced that made it a block and tranny went out. This truck has cost me a lot. Steering box steering components. Lift components. Hubs and all ball joints. Fuck list goes on , but I love my truck. !
All the same color wiring can also mean that it was done by an electrician that knew exactly what he's doing, lol! Look for butt-splices & heat shrink over connections, these are signs of a good install. He's right about electrical tape over everything being a bad sign....
You forgot to mention the frame rust especially trucks from the north east they have a tendency to rust out causing structural damage I am on my second cummins due to the frame rotting out.
I just replaced my bed with a rust free one that came from Georgia. My body shop installed a cavity wax to prevent the rust over the wheel wells. They also coated my frame with a product from 3m. It looks great. You may look onto coating your frame.
I have a 4th and 5th gen right now I've had two 1st gens two 2nd and one 3rd gen and I live in hawaii where stuff rust like you would not believe.. I have never had any serious rust issues with any of my trucks. Of course if the truck is completely neglected it's will deteriorate fast but that goes for any make or model.
Would greatly appreciate any tips. Currently own a 6” lifted 6.0. Great truck and not considering getting rid of. But I would like either another 6.0 or a 5.9 with a standard trans that’s not lifted. DRW preferred but not a deal breaker if it’s SRW. Mostly to tow boat or camper and make it easier for dogs to get in and out of when I go camping. Pretty familiar with the 6.0 and have a little experience with the old N14 Cummins. Not sure how different the 5.9 is from that but could figure some stuff out. Which way should I be looking?
On the trans, twin disk torque converter is a great upgrade. There’s also a upgrade for the clutch on the manual transmission. Did you look for exhaust leaks?
Excessively good fuel mileage means that the injectors are returning to much fuel, haze on cold start, missing, rev up and listen when the truck is decelerating and they will miss. Use a scan tool and do an injector kill test if you have a miss. Isolate the pump return and injector return. Measure the amount of fuel returning from injectors. Use a multimeter and measure resistance in the injectors. There are many ways to test injectors.
If you don’t flush regularly do not flush it or all the dirt is going to go threw your whole trans so if you don’t don’t do it just drab change filter refill. I will guarantee if you flush a trans that has never been flushed it will last about a year and then you need a rebuild !
I know this comment is 9 months but old and you migt already have a cummins but I personally bought an 06 because of the performance, interior and exterior upgrades. They do have an EGR but no DPF 06 and 07s are good
We're still waiting on one to come through the shop where we have an extra day or so to make the video, so it will be coming along shortly. Sorry about the wait!
Why in the world would you want to? It could be done sure, but it’s kind of a stupid swap. The 5.0 is junk compared to a 5.9 or 6.7. Doesn’t make near the power or torque, and is an overhead cam diesel. Which every overhead cam diesel ever made is a pos.
He used the old saying "Those who are behind me are losing" so he didn't need to see them haha It fell off a couple days prior and has since been replaced.
@@cameronschrade1448 didn't even notice but you telling the truth I tell people about it and they think I'm lieing or live somewhere crazy but nc is cheap to live compared to most others and the trucks seem to get hit the worst with the high prices a early 2000s truck around here with 150k miles or more is 5k or more even if it's 2wd ive found a few good deal but they get gone if they are real I remember just like 5 to 7 years ago how my cousin and other family members would find good running cars with under 200k miles for under 1k
Honestly I bought a gen 3 and hate it. The 5.9 is awesome but everything around it which is dodge is garbage. So disappointing. I'll stick with ford. Dodge lost a customer for life.
Most vehicles with that type of filter will have excessive blowby in a couple of years, I'm a mechanic 40+yrs and this my own experience,and it's not just the Cummins engine where this happens,just recently bought a dodge 1500 with a 360 and yes a k@n filter,and yes it used an unbelievable amount oil,I know k@n fanboys don't like this but it is what it is!
I still have my 04 Dodge Cummins I bought new. It has about 280k miles. I replaced all the injectors with new Bosch stock units, hard lines and CP3 pump at 265 k. Last winter I had the trans and torque converter rebuilt and up graded with a deep pan and billet converter,etc. I did a total front suspension rebuild with every u joint replaced and wheel bearings. Steering box brace was also added.
This winter I want to do the body work (almost no rust because I’m in Colorado) and paint, new front seat cushions and stereo with camera. The truck runs and drives great, almost like new.
That's amazing! And between the cost of a new truck and how nice those 04's drive it sounds like you've got yourself a great setup!
I just bought an 04 2500 short bed. With 47thousand miles and nv5600 6speed for 15 k in mint shape
Wow, that sounds like a steal! If need any go-fast parts let us know haha
That's a deal!!!
Wow I bought the same year and specs of your truck about 2 years ago for 14.8k and thought that was a good deal…with 128k miles. I still need to do body work as well. Great deal man
With low mileage, nice
-_- jealous. Just got a 05 longed with 264000 on the 6.7 and 200000 on the trans
You are wrong about the rear diff cover from the aftermarket part. Just because it has the ability to add more fluid does not necessarily make it better nor does that help in reducing heat. Banks has a set of videos showing the results of aftermarket rear diff covers..
Drink the Kool-aid much?
@@herminioorozco508 ever been inside a dodge rear diff? Obviously not. They use the shape of the cover to take fluid flung from the ring gear to lubricate the outer pinion bearing instead of an oil slinger on the pinion itself. As the banks videos have shown, most aftermarket diff covers aren't shaped correctly and will ruin a dodge diff in short order. Perhaps you should know what you're talking about before you talk shit.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I think you folks did a stellar job. I learned alot about the truck I currently own.
Do more videos on these 3rd gens! Love it!
Thanks! We're planning on doing some parts comparisons on these trucks down the road. Have a great day!
Very nice review. I have a 2006 slt 4x4. I'd recommend a new rear driveshaft. My truck had always had a mild vibration no matter if I replaced the u joints or not. I bought a 5in aluminum drive line from Texas driveline. My truck drives amazing now with 168000 on the clock. No more vibration.
The clear coat is fine with the later 3rd gens i think anyways... if it's peeling or fading around the hood, could be a signal that she's been ran hot 🔥
About to purchase a 2003 2500, this was very helpful
Good tips. The 04 dually I just bought had a deep.oil pan installed on it
You should have discussed T vs Y steering linkage as it pertains to death wobble and extended life. Good video. Thanks
Best truck ever made boyzzz. i would like to bring my truck by sometime maybe let me know when would be the best time.
Might want to ask your boss to add a drivers mirror for your safety.
I was told it’s a single stage paint so clear coat is mixed in with paint so if you get a paint job you want a 2-3 stage paint job primer color and then clear coat !
Idk I had one and the clear coat was a transparent film that was peeling off the paint
thank you for all the tip!! I love the exterior of this truck and want to buy one cuz it's mainly in my money range! that was a helpful video
Haha Dodge with tow mirrors flipped up with no mirror in it love it
Bought an 07 2500 with a June build date and a 6.7 Cummins w/ a 68rfe.
I’m absolutely in love with this truck. I’ve put about 35,000-40,000 miles on it. It’s got about 243,000 on it now. Everything works except for a couple of burnt out dash lights behind the hvac controls. Truck had a shimmy between 65-75mph when purchased, but I got a pretty good deal on it. Rebalanced the tires, made no difference. Changed to stock rims and tires, no change. Truck progressively got worse as I drove it, by august of this year I couldn’t go down the freeway with a trailer without crapping my drawers. Jacked it up, tore the front end down. Ball joints were junk, steering linkage was garbage, stabilizer was leaking, typical stuff for a 240,000 mile truck. Put new tires and wheels on before this because I found out my steel wheels were bent, and after the new shoes it became un-drive able. That prompted me to do the aforementioned tear down above. Tire shop cranked a bunch of negative caster into it and it’s infinitely better. The only problem, it that the shimmy is still there. It comes and goes and you can feel it in the chair. The front end is done minus the control arm bushings, the u joints all seem tight, nothing seems to be leaking, the two piece driveshaft got replaced with a one piece aluminum one by the previous owner. I’m running out of parts to replace and I’m worried that I bought someone else’s headache. I’m getting tired of going down the freeway at either 62 with the trucks or 85 in the fast lane. Any ideas on what to look for sitting in the driveway with a flashlight?
Hey! We've got a couple ideas:
-That one-piece driveshaft is where we're guessing, if it wasn't balanced correctly that could for sure make a vibration through the seat. Check on it for evidence of any weights having come off. They're usually tacked on and have been known to fly off. I had that happen on my car
-Double-check those wheels, same thing their weights could have come off causing that vibration. Sometimes if wheels are pumped out quick the weights will be slightly off
-Another driveway check is your torque converter could be loose. Take off that inspection panel on the bell housing and check to make sure its got no play.
-Lastly would be the u-joints like you said, double-check the ones surrounding both front and rear driveshafts. Seat vibrations are usually (but not always) driveline vibrations
Hope this helps!
@@dirtydieselcustom thank you for the quick reply. I’m pretty new to these 3rd gens and I’m still learning. I had a superduty before this. I’m going over to my buddy’s shop this weekend. We’ll jack it up and go down the list. Really appreciate it and I’m glad to see videos with really good information in them. 👍
@@mitchelldecker7771 well find anything out yet?
@@crenulatemist6531 at this point, I think I’ve finally narrowed it down. It changes with steering input. If I let the truck track itself down the road, it will clear up and stop shaking... if I give it any left or right it starts shaking again. First order of business is that my leveling kit is coming out. Next I’m replacing my stock track bar with another stock track bar, stock control arm replacement, and a couple of other things. Basically, it’s going back to a completely stock front end configuration so that the steering geometry is correct. I know that I’m gonna catch flack from the Cumminsforum guys for it, but it’s my work truck... so I need to make sure it’s gonna go down the road.
Ive owned a 2004.5 2500 turbo Cummins, lifted, leveled, 35" tires since 2008. It had what you describe (and yes it's enough for a coherent adult to shit themselves) I researched, researched, researched and researched some more ( wanted to get it right first time)
I decided on a long arm control kit. Had a diesel shop install and I no longer pack an extra change of pants 😉
I bought my 06’ last year. Lifted, 5.9 24v 120,000 miles. Badass right , no! Since last year I have dumped 10,000 into truck to keep running. I ended up only putting 10,000 miles on truck before transfer case blew out. Replaced that made it a block and tranny went out. This truck has cost me a lot. Steering box steering components. Lift components. Hubs and all ball joints. Fuck list goes on , but I love my truck. !
Stick finger in master. Cylinder wiggle it around if it's warm means fluid is good
Subbed, I plan on making a bunch of orders through you guys here shortly, starting a 2nd gen project.
The right side of any thing is a bad spot for rust , because the snow makes a dam for salt and snow to sling water and salt up into rockers !!
Aren’t u supposed to have the truck running and in neutral when u check trans fluid level?
Well done!
All the same color wiring can also mean that it was done by an electrician that knew exactly what he's doing, lol! Look for butt-splices & heat shrink over connections, these are signs of a good install. He's right about electrical tape over everything being a bad sign....
Best video out there !
Great info thanks
You forgot to mention the frame rust especially trucks from the north east they have a tendency to rust out causing structural damage I am on my second cummins due to the frame rotting out.
Good to know, it's not something we've seen too much over here so we're sorry we missed that.
I just replaced my bed with a rust free one that came from Georgia. My body shop installed a cavity wax to prevent the rust over the wheel wells. They also coated my frame with a product from 3m. It looks great. You may look onto coating your frame.
I have a 4th and 5th gen right now I've had two 1st gens two 2nd and one 3rd gen and I live in hawaii where stuff rust like you would not believe.. I have never had any serious rust issues with any of my trucks. Of course if the truck is completely neglected it's will deteriorate fast but that goes for any make or model.
@@overheadcam32 sometimes those can do more harm than good
Would greatly appreciate any tips. Currently own a 6” lifted 6.0. Great truck and not considering getting rid of. But I would like either another 6.0 or a 5.9 with a standard trans that’s not lifted. DRW preferred but not a deal breaker if it’s SRW. Mostly to tow boat or camper and make it easier for dogs to get in and out of when I go camping. Pretty familiar with the 6.0 and have a little experience with the old N14 Cummins. Not sure how different the 5.9 is from that but could figure some stuff out. Which way should I be looking?
Where are you in Sask? Some of us Canadian boys might get you to do some work.
We're over in Kelowna BC, although a few of us are from Sask so we all love the Prairies too!
How do you know if you have a lift kit? Mine seem a little high than normal but know if it has a lift kit. Thanks in advance!
Power sliding windows leak water. Know this from experience
Did you guys make a 6.7 4th gen Cummins buyers guide? Didn’t see that one
We haven't yet, but we are working on one soon.
On the trans, twin disk torque converter is a great upgrade. There’s also a upgrade for the clutch on the manual transmission. Did you look for exhaust leaks?
Triple disk converter is what you want. Twin disk clutch for a manual.
How would you check the injectors condition without pulling them out? Like injector balance rate but with what monitor?
Fuel in the oil or smoke basically
@@wizard_of_poz4413 all diesels smoke at wide open throttle
@@wizard_of_poz4413 not at all. These are extreme examples
Excessively good fuel mileage means that the injectors are returning to much fuel, haze on cold start, missing, rev up and listen when the truck is decelerating and they will miss. Use a scan tool and do an injector kill test if you have a miss. Isolate the pump return and injector return. Measure the amount of fuel returning from injectors. Use a multimeter and measure resistance in the injectors. There are many ways to test injectors.
Another issue is the rpm gauge reading low. Happens on my truck
Especially on 2006. Solder joints on 2 chips in the instrument panel..
Will a scanner tell if it has oil pressure even if the gauge says no oil pressure
24 v. Twin turbo 1500 hp
U know anyone that has a transmission wiring harness for 08 dodge ram diesel 68 RFE automatic transmission with electric transfer case. Thank u Tim
If you don’t flush regularly do not flush it or all the dirt is going to go threw your whole trans so if you don’t don’t do it just drab change filter refill. I will guarantee if you flush a trans that has never been flushed it will last about a year and then you need a rebuild !
The owner I bought my 3rd gen from he raptor lined the whole truck but he put fender flares on it and I took them off and threw them in the trash
The right colour and texture raptor liner can look good, but yea its good to always see what might be behind those flairs!
About to buy a 2007 5.9 3500 Dually and I was curious, what year(s) are better than others for the third gen Cummins?
I know this comment is 9 months but old and you migt already have a cummins but I personally bought an 06 because of the performance, interior and exterior upgrades. They do have an EGR but no DPF 06 and 07s are good
* a Randy's transmission
She keeps her seals tight. Trust me. Trust me.
i dont see a 6.7 or 4th gen video on your channel
We're still waiting on one to come through the shop where we have an extra day or so to make the video, so it will be coming along shortly. Sorry about the wait!
Would it be possible to take 5.0 cummins mate a eaton fuller 7 spd and put it into a 2008 ram 2500 because that would be sweet.
If you mean a 5.9 matted to an Eaton 10.. yes it is totally doable.. I am building a 06' 2500 with a 10 speed right now
@@weld_dat_fakah740 no the 5.0 cummins out of the Nissan titan
Why in the world would you want to? It could be done sure, but it’s kind of a stupid swap. The 5.0 is junk compared to a 5.9 or 6.7. Doesn’t make near the power or torque, and is an overhead cam diesel. Which every overhead cam diesel ever made is a pos.
U turn cap upside down full
Called a yolk
I'm Matt damn it.
did he really just say big headlights were sick on the 3rd gen 🤮
At least it’s not just me
Install some alpha rex nova led headlights. Those are sick
You would 6 months to check all this stuff before you buy one
11 stones in tire
Were is the mirror
He used the old saying "Those who are behind me are losing" so he didn't need to see them haha
It fell off a couple days prior and has since been replaced.
Gaskets
Everyone wants north of 8k for a rusted out Cummins with 200k on it
I know what I got….
I'm in nc and that's what people want for a gas truck
@@josephbeaver6621 yea that post was two years ago it got worse now it's like $12,000 for a rust bucket with no blow by
@@cameronschrade1448 didn't even notice but you telling the truth I tell people about it and they think I'm lieing or live somewhere crazy but nc is cheap to live compared to most others and the trucks seem to get hit the worst with the high prices a early 2000s truck around here with 150k miles or more is 5k or more even if it's 2wd ive found a few good deal but they get gone if they are real I remember just like 5 to 7 years ago how my cousin and other family members would find good running cars with under 200k miles for under 1k
@@cameronschrade1448 I did find a good 3rd gen for 8k but 300k miles but body did look great idk if it was the 5.9 or 6.7
Honestly I bought a gen 3 and hate it. The 5.9 is awesome but everything around it which is dodge is garbage. So disappointing. I'll stick with ford. Dodge lost a customer for life.
I know a good welder
Dad tell him to stop
Yes
Just go to the dealer and buy a brand new one after this vid..get it deleted
What I say about calling me Spencer
If the truck has a k&n air filter or similar,,, run away from it
Why?
Most vehicles with that type of filter will have excessive blowby in a couple of years, I'm a mechanic 40+yrs and this my own experience,and it's not just the Cummins engine where this happens,just recently bought a dodge 1500 with a 360 and yes a k@n filter,and yes it used an unbelievable amount oil,I know k@n fanboys don't like this but it is what it is!
@@smiller8688 your statement can't be anymore false
@@smiller8688 Truth.
Never take mechanical advice from a car salesman.
Stop calling me Spencer
Head
Don't try to use my talk
Y w having this conversation u bored
Adderall.
I clicked on the video cause I was genuinely Interested at first. Then he gets out of the truck Wearing flip flops…….GAY.
You guys are lame, lame
Get out of truck u dont know my WIFE