Sanforized vs Unsanforized Selvedge Denim Jeans: Risks, Rewards and How to Soak and Size.
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- Опубликовано: 23 дек 2017
- Choose the right size, fit and how to shrink your unsanforized jeans for perfect results, every time!
In the previous article, we spoke about sizing and getting the right size of jeans for your body in your chosen fit. It’s not that complicated. Just need a pair of jeans or trousers that fit you well and a measuring tape. Easy right?
See that video here:
• How to MEASURE SELVEDG...
We yes… and no. Things can get a little more complicated when you throw in sanforization into the mix.
Sanforize...... What Did You say?
Sanforization is a method of processing denim to stabilize it and reduce the amount of shrink and distortion the fabric will experience when the jeans are washed or given a hot soak.
When denim comes off the loom it is in its purest state, "Loomstate" as it is known. It can then be taken off and sewn into a pair of jeans right there and then. But here comes the issue. When the jeans go through their first soak, some shrinkage will occur. Sometimes-dramatic amounts of shrinkage.
Sanforization is a process that was invented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett
Way back in the 1930s. Using a horribly complicated bunch of rollers and steam and heat and magic. The loomstate denim is pulled this way and that and comes out the other end in a much more stable form of its former self.
Check out the other videos about getting your perfect raw selvedge denim jeans in this series here:
• Rope Dye Vlog 1: Intro...
I have been into denim for more than 10 years and have bought many selvedge denims. This is by far the best video I have seen that almost covers it all in brief. You are 20X more knowledgeable than those people working in denim stores looking all cool but know nothing. Keep up the good work man.
Ah, thank you. I am super happy you find the info helpful. Yeah, the staff in many stores are shop floor sales assistants. Mainly there to get different sizes and keep the place looking spick and span. Means that when you find a decent denim store with a great denimhead behind the counter you value it so much more. Little communities spring up around these kinds of stores.
Ah, that sucks mate. I would have thought that they would stretch out. But never had much experience with Warehouse. I guess slimmer jeans should really be one wash or made from sanforized, just to reduce the risk to the customer.
Probably one of the best videos made on this topic. You nailed it! I love both types... started with Naked & Famous/APC. Now wearing 3sixteen's sanforized jeans and planning to grab some Flat Heads now.
Thanks, Julian! Your support and kind words are really appreciated. The Flat Heads are incredible jeans! The fading potential is huge! Yull love it!
thanks for this video! i know it's a few years on, but i'm making my own jeans now and am looking at buying small amounts for decorative patches and repairs, and wanted some better information about sanforization vs. non before using one on top of the other.
Thanks to your video I was able to purchase some new sugar cane unsanforized denim and they fit great!
Nice man. Happy to hear.
Really love these videos mate. Could you eventually do reviews on companies, maybe talk about the mills they get their denim from. I find it hard to find which pair to purchase next or to find out what makes one mill better than the other.
That's a great idea, Brenden. I will keep this in mind for sure. You're right, it is always a little tricky with Mills, sadly this is still quite removed from the end consumer and it is a super interesting part of the process. Check out our story on 3sixteen and their trip to Kuroki MIll
www.ropedye.com/2014/07/3sixteens-kuroki-mills/
Or our chat with Lennaert from Benzak Denim Developers on making his first denim.
www.ropedye.com/2017/05/the-right-of-passage-for-benzak-denim-developers/
Some great insights there.
Underrated channel! Any advice on Tanuki/Momotaros'?
Hey Peter. Thanks for your kind words. We're right at the start of this journey. So, to Tanuki and Momotaros. Hmm, well, I will be honest with the Tanuki. I have never had my hands on a pair, unfortunately. For the Momo's tho. I love them! They have a great variety of denim, denim weights and the detailing is incredible. Fit wise. I have to be a little careful with my European frame with the Japanese fits. I found that the tag size was exactly the waist size in the pairs that I have tried. If you are looking for a pair from either jeans brand. Carefully measure and compare with the size charts. We did an in-depth look at measuring jeans. Can find that here: ruclips.net/video/g6ZsaQQwXqw/видео.html
I have an Imperial x Self edge 23 unsaforized (bought like 6 years ago , that I didn’t wear too much 25x)
when I first got them, I did a hot soak and it shrank quite abit. the fit was pretty loose tho(hence why I didn’t wear em too much). recently, I got it tapered, but for some reason, it was cut a little shorter than I liked. (no stacks, just 1 cuff to sit on my ankle.)
I am planning on wearing it out and doing flipped machine wash and line dry.
will these continue to shrink in length during the 2nd/3rd/4th n so on ???? am I screwed with just shorter jeans….
Dude you need to add more videos!!
Haha. I was thinking the same and I will release one later today. Figure it is time to get back to these things.
Goddamn great channel.
Haha, thank you mate.
Even sanforised jeans shrinks half to quarter inch, from my experience
You probably expected this - so, if I usually buy Sz 30 in sanforised jeans, what should I go for in unsanforised?
The Sz 30 I currently buy - across various brands - is usually slightly tight but once it stretches after a few wears it usually fits me perfectly.
Hmm, this is a tough question... and I can only really answer it from my point of view. If the jeans are tight and stretch out after. I would be tempted to go for maybe a 31. That way, in the shrink you will maybe lose one inch bringing it down to a 30, and after some wear, it will stretch out to your usual size which sounds like it would have been a 31. This would be how I would do it for myself. However, if at all I would give the store you are looking at a call and see just how much shrink you can expact from the specific jeans. Or if possible, go into the store and try them on and have a chat with the guys. This is the very BEST way with unsanforized.
Hope you get an amazing pair of jeans, Billy.
All the best from the Rope Dye team and happy christmas to you and yours.,
Matt.
I buy unsanforized denim two sizes up, wash them in hot(test) water inside out in the machine, no spin, hang them and before they are completely dry put them in a hot dryer. Apostasy! Burn me at the stake if you like. No marbling, no unsightly marks, I have gotten as much as two inches out of the waist and 3+ out of the length. And a perfect fit that promises there is no more shrink in these fits. Subsequent washes are more sensible---cold, hang dry. I lerned this from my mom who bought me Lees from Sears in 1969. Not advice, just my take.
@3:22 facts . Lol
😂 telling it how it is.
sanforiseisbest
Yeah, these days I would go for Sanforized with slim jeans and maybe Unsanforized for looser fits. The new project pair is unsanforized.
6:44 visit where?? "mate with one"?
I have heard showers work too. But never tried myself.
I just want the jeans from my childhood. 1970s unwashed.
You should only get unsanforized that are also one washed imho. Going with purely unsanforized you most likely gonna waste your money unless you are experienced.
In any case I can never understand why would anyone want to pay that much money for basically an unfinished product that may also end up not fitting you at the end.
Ok this is the second time I’ve heard you say that the weight will change after a wash... and i can’t understand this. Are you talking about the roll of stock denim? Or the pants? Either way it doesn’t make sense. No offense and i could be wrong but hear me out. Your pants may shrink and become more dense but there is no material added. That’s why they shrink. Pound of rocks and a pound of feathers are still a pound. Just the rock is more dense. Now the weight before the pants are made.... oh wait i think it just clicked in my head... we’re not talking about the actual weight of the pants... we’re talking about the “weight” in the description of the pants? Oh now I’m screwed... sounds like an American way of measuring lol we need the metric system to “weigh” in on this. Carry on.
The "weight" of a fabric is the weight (or mass, in metric units) of a given area of fabric. IE: ounces per square yard, grams per square meter. So - if you have a given weight/mass of fabric and it shrinks, the surface area of the jeans will be smaller due to shrinkage. The weight/mass will be the same, and you'll divide the unchanged weight/mass by a smaller area - this will result in a higher oz/sq yd or g/sq m. Make sense?
Nailed it mate. I could not have said it better. And most likely would not have said it better ;)
Reading this in 2021 and it doesn’t make any sense. Yes, when the surface area shrink, the mass will increase, making the jeans “feel” more dense and heavier. However, the overall weight of the jeans should still remain the same. Saying a 32 oz jeans become 34 oz jeans after shrinking makes me confused as well. How can a jeans become smaller and heavier at the same time without adding on of material?
@@Agate87 basically, the weight refers to a square yard of fabric.
for convenience, let’s say a pair of jeans takes exactly a yard of 21oz denim.
picture the square yard of fabric being laid out on the floor and getting traced.
after being washed the fabric shrinks, and when placed back into the square it is now a smaller size.
so, the fabric is the same, but now takes up less space. meaning that since denim is measured by ounces per yard, said denim is ‘heavier’ since it is smaller while maintaining its original properties.
the weight itself is left unaffected, but on a technicality it would be considered a heavier denim.
Same person? Hahaha
:)
Don’t talk, show how