BMW CRANK NO START, SOLVED!!
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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This car was easier to fix then it was to upload this video...
Today we track down what it took to get our E46 325XIT back up and running. Post you comments below to guess what caused it from starting!
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SMART BOY, MOST MECHANICS WOULDN’T CATCH THIS,
I BET THERE ARE MORE THAN ONE OF THESE THAT WERE SENT TO THE BONEYARD FOR SAME PROBLEM
Thanks so much!
The main positive cable from front to battery is weak it needs to be changed, I have a same problem
I wanted to thank you for your video I’ve been struggling for three weeks to get my BMW 530i to start I looked at your video today and all the stuff you mentioned and my problem was the battery terminal where if your car was in an accident it would disconnect when I reconnected it it started right up thank you very much have a great day!
you were so patient with solving the issue.
I wonder why you didn't have a scan tool. It would help a lot.
There were no codes, but that's why I needed to be through with the volt meter :D
Looks like the it got chaffed at some point then water leaks into the footwell, classic bmw! lol I used to have an E46 that would occasionally get water in the same place.
You might also check to see if you have a leaking sunroof. The wire might have gotten melted and then wet. Craziness. Thanks for the video. My 530i just stalled out and threw all the camshaft codes. Just replaced them and the fuel pump relay. Still cranks NO start so I will check the battery squib, as my wife does NOT tell me every time she backs into something 🙂
did you fix it , i have a 530i that cranks but wont start
Amazing videos. Really appreciate the detail and clarity of the posts.
I have a e46 m3 that's blowing the ignition fuses and giving the same symptom of crank, no start. I could really use some expert advise on the next steps.
Back story: I did a top end refresh on the car, changed the vanos solenoid pack, oil disc, new vanos gears, etc. Put everything back together and car was running fine for about 2 weeks. One fine day, it just died.
At first, I thought it could be the fuel pump. I replaced that.
Then, I found out that ignition fuses F2 (30A), F3 (20A), F4 (30A) are shorting out as soon as I turn the key to the "ON" position.
The interesting thing is that if I disconnect the ground (under the hood, driver side next to the ECM) that connects to the chassis, the short goes away. I use a PowerProbe ect 3000 to detect open/short.
Did you find the problem? I am experiencing a similar phenomenon
In reality, you don't really know what the prior condition of that cable was when it still allowed your car to start every time. Many more strands of wire sitting in the midst of the corrosion could have broke down very rapidly within the last few days of starts or even a couple of last starts before it finally failed.
This is not a crank no start video though. My car cranks but wont fire-up (start). It is definitely electrical. I replaced the junction box below the passenger seat. But there is still some wire not or electrical unit not working
Nicely done work on diagnosing this issue. And good thing you didn't burn down! I deal with corrosion on a daily with the fleet I NOW manage and I have been going through wiring and electrical systems since day one of starting. I cant stress enough on weatherproofing and making sure the electrical system is taking care of. We deal with electrical pumps and systems that are run for 8+ hours a day in a wet/humid environment. Great job again finding it and helping many out in your process!
*I would also like to note that that was pretty bad corrosion to cause that split. For anyone else finding corrosion like this or off the ends of wire to check the wire further down the wire as corrosion seeps into the sheathing and corrodes further. At times it corrodes far further than just the obvious spot. I've had to replace full lengths of wire because I would open it up down and it was compromised all the way. Its not fun but having a clean, unrestricted and safe system is better than being stranded or worst, burned down*
Hey. I changed Vanos (fcpEro) and oil change (LiquiMoli) cuz of rough tuning after a 2k trip and P052B. Now I got endless crank no start plus p013c0. 2013 x5E70.
Very late to this thread but wouldn't a battery load tester have caught this with one test - admittedly one has to have one!!! 😁
Excellent troubleshooting 🇦🇺
Thank you for possible reason, my 325i has the same problem trying to solve it, but interesting
Haha man I listened through whole your story. You don’t want to lose this baby. I’m gonna check her cables tomorrow. I think I’m having the same frustration. E46loveee
Mother of god you're alive. lol good to see you again, hope you're all well and safe.
Amp? Something is draining faster than the alternator can keep up
Wow I didn’t realize this could be a situation. Let’s see if I can get it started today. Thank you!
Crazy. Great job diagnosing.
Thanks!
Amazing problem solver amazing mechanic nice job 👍🏼
Thanks for taking the time to share
My positive terminal is broken. So I looked for one whose cable isn't as thick as the original to replaced it. Although, the car is starting and charging but i want to ask if it wont have any consequences on the long run.
I have an 05 325i sedan l6 have no start issues. I got power. But when I turn key on it's loud clicking from behind glovebox and under the hood at the disa valve. I replaced relay behind glove box and replaced disa valve. Got brand new battery but still clicks. It cranks but no start and continue to make loud clicking noise. N Ed some advice plz
Great troubleshooting: well done!
Woow that is patient good job there
Should have Meg ohmed( checks wire insulation) positive wire and it would have been obvious
I’m guessing it’s fuel pump relay
How you break it down is amazing and so I have to subscribe!
Hi, i need help with my car problem, the problem is my car crank but won't start, i checked injector signal, there's no signal, i checked ignition coil, there's also no signal, then i checked all fuse and relay, there's no fault. After that i checked all the wiring on engine, there's no problem with the wire harness, lastly i checked the ecm/ecu, i bring it to ecu repair shop they checked no faulty and i pay charge for checking usd60, after that, i try to start again, its still won't start, then i bring the ecm/ecu again to the bmw agent for checking with charge usd100, they also said there's no faulty with the ecu/ecm. I checked the fuel pump its working, i checked the pressure of fuelpump its working perfect. I checked the immobiliser, also no problem, Im still wondering with the problem and why my ignition coil and injector no power and no signal. Fault code on obd is P0341, P101b and P1061 , i tried clear, after a few minutes its appear again, anyone know what the problem? My car BMW 320i E90 2006, engine N46
Waterleak rightside front floormat?
He’s happy.😁
Great Video. Thanks for videoing it and being persistent on finding the issue. Problem solved is always a great mission
Appreciate the acknowledgment of the work it takes!
I have same issues with 2007 e60 car crank won’t start no spark and no injector pulse scan no fault code
What if that yellow thing on cable gets pulled off
Car crank no start what is problem???
I was going to say corroded wire. just because you see battery voltage it doesnt matter because it does not measure current. a voltage drop test would have revealed it immediately
How does that happen? You're lucky the car didn't catch fire!
Check 8:20 you will see the welding wire from a 5 year ago “professional” repair. They burnt thru the wire!!!
Engine to chassis ground cable
If car crank no start what that have to do with battery or alternator even little baby know about positive cable on battery that will disconnect after accident lol
Hey man I own a 325i and my hood ajar button was causing the problem but never really found put why I was having the same exact problem as you could you help me my name is Jared
325i 2001
Great work dude i missed your videos
Fuse link battery cable
great one i need help with my BMW X3 no answer to my questions from no one
Send me a message I've had great luck helping people! MillerTimeBMW@Hotmail.com
Do anyone read post car crank no start
hi my bmw e90 cranks but not starts when i try to start it mby after a day it starts for 1 to 2 seconds then it cranks after that pls help
Checks Cam sensors or replacing Crankshaft sensor
I don't get how there was still enough wire to show battery voltage up front but then no alternator voltage in the back.
So remember, the thicker main cable is for starting and charging. My cable was not fully corroded through. Also, there’s a smaller cable off the positive battery post that sends voltage to run the vehicle.
@millertimebmw oh right. I've always driven e46's and e36's and and do my own work but I never knew what that setup was all about because I've never had to deal with it failing.
The 250A fuse didn't burned out?
The main cable was bad.
Engine ground strap
Thank You Very much!!!!!!
Ground strap
u gotta register the battery because of extreme low voltage
On this generation there is no need to register batteries
Good video. Is this common for the e46?
Maybe not to the level of mine, but a blown positive cable from a fender bender or poor connection will give similar symptoms.
Good job finding this, that is crazy, kinda looks like a rat chewed it
Same exact problem INEED HELP @
I have a 2006 325i and I was having a weird rpm fluctuation problem, usually when its warmed up, it would go down to like 350 - 400 rpms then it would shoot itself back up to about 1200rpms and it would continuously bounce up and down until i held the throttle down into high rpms. I changed the plugs and it got wayyyy better for about a month and now it wont even start and the battery is dead. im going to get a new battery, correctly code it, and start somewhere near the MAF sensor, since i had some fuel coming out at the fuel rail.. any tips are greatly appreciated.
Not the one to watch when stuck on the side of the road!!!!
That wire in that condition under the back seat is not good, the cars that everyone sees on fire on the side of the road is the same reason there on fire, they put a aftermarket stereo with Amp and don't use a fuse breaker, thats very dangerous, BMW has no reason for that wire to being like that, they should have a recall on that.....
Every thing is drained
the splice was not good.
Fues
Three little things we learn whats wrong EWS 3 runs everything to make your car run. 500$ fix
Crank/cam sensor
Your starter
"NO CRANK, NO START" ... and you start off the video telling us you diagnosed the alternator output with the vehicle running. SIGHHHHHH
COVID
You don't understand electrical......
How so?
Obviously you don't know or think that people can't hear you because you walking back and forth and a microphone on whatever you recording this with is not close enough to you for us to hear everything you're saying?
Sorry m8, started to watch but sound was so poor I gave up.
Too quiet?
@@millertimebmw 'fraid so.
Appreciate the honest criticism, the next one will be better :)
What's wrong with the sound? It sounds good to me.
Alt cable