I know this is a old video but over the last 4-5 years your old E39 videos "I probably watched them all" helped me out tremendously, when I got the car it was already old and mistreated but your videos help me to fix and drive
I fixed my CEL with the P0340 and the car runs like new. What I have learned the hard way is not to use ANY other brand than the BMW original part OR VDO (Siemens or Continental). There are brand names like Hella, Meyle or Bremi who have excellent products normally but BMW's are very special about their sensors! The problem many people miss is that a new non-BMW or non-VDO CPS might work exactely like the old damaged one; Making people believe that the problem must be in the wiring or the Crankshaft position sensor; BMW must have a failsafe system that it still runs with the "wrong" sensor making the problem so hard to diagnose. There are horror stories in the forums where people replaced harnesses and DME's just to find out that the sensor was the problem after all. The car might still start with a non-oem sensor; before you rule out the CPS as the problem make sure that you put an VDO or BMW sensor in it. If it still doesn't work get a second replacement one from BMW directly. A new VDO one is like 90 dollars a BMW one about 150 - after spending hours tearing the car apart just think whether 150 dollars is really that bad to be one the safe side!
It's a 5mm allen screw, that's why it stripped. These sensors get old, their signal diminishes over time, I consider them tune up parts and change out both. Generally it's to correct a no spark, if it's a fuel issue try to diagnose maf vs fuel system issues. Maf sensors usually fire and then die, it won't continue to run no matter what.
Great video, shows that even with experience the pro's Can also get stumped. But if you stick with it you will Find the problem. Big of you to admit the carb spray Error, as a former tech of 30 years, I have worked With many a tech that would not admit a error on their Part. You are a great tech and person for putting All this live on RUclips to watch. Keep em coming, thanks
I have changed the sensor always from below and never had any issue. It takes about 20 min to change that way. You can not see it but you can change it by feel.
This is great, I had codes P0443 and P0340, replaced camshaft sensor, purge valve and gas tank cap with oem parts and problem still persists. Is there a way I can send you the video of what is happening? I turn the key, engine starts but “dies” right away without idling.
You’re video really helped me thank you! Was looking at it tonight going… where is it?! I would say that you may have stripped it because it’s 5mm. 3/16 is 4.76mm.
Had very similar symptoms on my '98 4.4, but it turned out to be the MAF (I replaced both the cam and crank sensors first without success). A cheap aftermarket MAF might be worth trying if anyone has similar symptoms to this vid. Btw, while aftermarket MAF's are fine, aftermarket cam sensors even by meile just don't work, they are garbage. I tried 2 of them before giving up and buying genuine.
We are having something similar with the 2003 bmw 325ci . It’s struggling to start but start after 3 times trying, we change gas pump and start well , but them back to same as it was before. I was frustrated and toke it to a mechanic friend of mine. He started the car well all the times he tryout! He told me he couldn’t fine anything wrong! I drove it when to put gas and start fine . Them when on the day and later after 3 hrs in the parking, I went to drive around and omg ! Back to struggle to start, but it did ! Don’t know what could be wrong?!
After stripping my hex bolt, I Used a 3/8 socket to hammer over the stripped bn olt head and turned it 1/4 at a time hammering each time cause it would slip off after a 1/4 turn.
Thanks alot. I replaced both Cam and Crankshaft sensor CPS. VDO brand. The old one was Siemens. I took off the front bumper. Radiator, oil coolers because had a oil leaking there. Need to give this E39 full service. Water leak Oil leaks. Bosch v belt New waterpump GMB Tensioner bearing and Jockey wheel bearing. Alternator bearings and the brush runner. Water bottle 2x water hoses. Thermostat housing O-Ring and seal. O-rings on oil cooler hoses. Power steering bottle return hoses replace. Vanos hoses leak. Replace hose Vanos leak on gasket. So I remove the tapped cover and turned the 60-2 OT mark on Crankshaft wheel where CPS sits. Checked the cam shaft timming. Exhaust cam was retarded and intake cam was a bit advanced. (Removed al 6 sparkplugs all of them was carbon up badly, to turn crank) Cleaned it up placed Victor Reinz silicon sealer on Vanos seal to head and Reset timming with Stainless steel Ruler on to dubble dots on flat on both Cam shafts. After setting. Turned Crankshaft 2 CW and it cam perfectly! OT mark New tapped cover rubber gasket. Send 6 injectors in for spray test and sonic bath cleaning. New 6 x injector front tip O-rings to seal vacuum leak. Intake manufold rubber seals to cylinder head. Vapor oil separator under intake manufold replace because of oil drain was blocked. Oily intake ports. New Throttle cable genuine BMW PART like R330. Super great price! Oil filter Wix Air filter febi bilstein Cabin air polin filters topran Antifreeze 1l and battery water distilled 8l New engine oil 7l 5w40 Motal. Air temp sensor new Water temp sensor new Started car and it runs great!
2004 330i blowing 20 amp fuses in the triangle box under the hood where the ECM is located. The fuse is a 20 amp fuse in the center of a group of 5 fuses. It controls fuel pump and cam and crank sensors. I unplugged the fuel pump and it still blows. Have you ever heard of a crank sensor going bad and resulting in blowing the fuse the second you turn the ignition on?
hi Nathan, my e46 have an issue. i put the key in, the radio and the dash lights come on but when i turn the key nothing happen. i change the ignition switch and it work for a couple hours, then dont start another time. I try with an new brand ignition switch and doesnt work. i check the the tiny box in the underhood fuse box and all the fuse are right. Please help me.
Dude thank you so much I love your videos & they have saved me a lot in money for repairs. I just got a used 525i had this problem. Watched your video did what you said & it worked like a charm. Thanks Bro!!
Good Info.I Had an e 36 1993 325i with crank no start. No spark no fuel. After much investigating ,including changing the crankshaft position sensor found out the dme was damaged from water. These older cars have seals that go bad and can let water in the engine compartment. I went to a junkyard and got one for 20.00 . Lucky it was EWS1! Also ,check the fuel pump relay .the horn relay can be used for a quick swap to diagnose.
+traxxas man Yea the e36's are bad for that, i have one here right now that will not start, i will get some videos up of it when i get time to work on it
What happen is the cam and crank both went at the same time.. then my pump wouldn't turn on because the ews1 system sent a message to DME to turn fuel off,. So if the cam sensor is bad the fuel and spark are a no go.. as what I been reading about Ews systems. as well my fuel pump gave out.. it had no power to the pump it's self', ,,had to replace that.. got that done,. The Ews delete chip was a fail that I had bought,. I did go to the junk yard and pulled some chips. And I now have power to the pumps and spark.
The problem is my DME is saying I have a faulty cam sensor. Soo the question is am I supposed to get a high reading on all 3 wires on the cam connector? Or just 2. I have high volts on 2 out of 3. The third is dead.. when having the needle touching also use the same dead socket and get no reaction to the other 2 plugs, so I'm not sure.
I have a question, was the diagnose of a bad crankshaft sensor was the correct one for this problem? My car is doing exactly the same but there is no check engine light on :(
after you changed the crank sensor did you have power to the fuel pump relay. because I have no power ,coming from the relay.. I read the crank sensor sends a signal to the dme. that turns on the relay.... is that true.?
Wait a minute! So you're saying that you replaced the sensors before checking the fuses, relays or for power at the fuel pump? Or is there no power at the fuel pump if you have a bad sensor? I have no power at the pump but the fuses and relays are all fine and dandy, just like Randy! I'm charging my battery overnight to go exchange it at Costco if it doesn't charge. Once I have the new battery, if it doesn't start, I try the Crank position sensor first because I had it replaced in 2014. That was a job I had to pay for because I could barely feel it but couldn't see it.
my friend i have scan my e39 520i m52 b20 .... crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor when we delete the 2 erors ....only camshaft sensor is back.... something interesting the car has slow acceleration and at low speeds jerks a little bit and first startup in morning it takes a more time its difficult like 10 sec cranking than power of and on and starts up easy .....after that every startup is instant ....fuel economy is worse ....from 13 14 city now at 19 20 liters per 100 km
the 1st thing he use the 32 wrench for ..mines is stuck on any helpful ideas ... i have used a 32 wrench which it stripped it then i put a mix of dw40 and asitone ..still stripped and now rust
You are an awesome resource Nathan. I learn so much watching your videos - i appreciate the way you go about explaining things. And you can be pretty damn funny at times as well.
My 2000 BMW 323i when you turn the key to start it and it just goes click once. I have installed a new starter, new battery and took off positive battery cable and it continue to run in beginning but now for some reason it won't start back up. Even got a new coded key for it. All battery hook ups are good.
crazy. my 540i is throwing an intermittent code for cam sensor. sometimes it starts and sometimes it won't. I ordered 1 but wrong sensor was to.long hopefully the correct one comes Saturday
+frank aranda I have had that before with the 4.4, if yours is the 99 and up vanos engine the sensors are hard to find and expensive, i would do the crank sensor, yours is on the bottom passenger side and is easy to change, sometimes the ecu has a hard time telling the cam sensor from the crank sensor as far as throwing codes, also it could be the start of vanos failure or timing chain guides, lets hope not.I might have a set of good oem sensors here ill have to look.
+Nathan's DIY Garage OK. sounds good. mine is a 98. 7/98 I believe build date. I guess there is 2 different cam sensors this year. at the part stores.but let me know if you have some. thanks
Hello, While reading error codes on my BMW 318d 105kw n47 11/2008 LCI, it's reporting in dde an fault code 4CA7 fuel temperature sensor, plausibility - do you maybe know what it represents, where this sensor is placed? Thanks, Daniel.
My crankshaft sensor has a 10mm hex bolt on it but there isn't enough space for my ratchet to connect, there's something by the starter that extends out. What should I do?
On my 540i the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors look identical. They are both in the front and very easy to locate. I replaced one and still no luck. Will wd40/ butane/propane work instead of carb cleaner?
@@antiochiaadtaurum3786 not sure I understand your post. However, it’s a m52b28, same in e36 and e39. The crank sensor is down next to the crank lol that’s how it reads it. Hes replaced the cam sensor here, it’s next to the camshaft lol. The sensors are Hall effect magnetic. Google is your friend here.
I have an E39 off question. My daughter has a 2002 E39 (530i). I have replaced three window regulators with new motors in them. They all rolled beautifully at first, but are becoming more resistant as time progresses. With in a few weeks of replacement to be exact. Any reason as to why this is happening?
replace the coil packs on a 2000 BMW 328i still running rough need to know what else to look for three of the coil packs from bad and I think the guy drove with coil packs bad back to his house but not sure wondering if it could be the plugs or the catalytic converter clogged did you give me some suggestions
Hey I have an E90 that I replaced the starter for recently and now it’s cranking but won’t stay on...did I not plug something in or could I also have an issue with the crankcase sensor? It flutters slightly but won’t stay on I also replaced fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump the week prior so I’m confident it has fuel delivery
OK EVERYONE IS THROWING PARTS on the car and hoping. You are all doing it wrong! Check fuel coming to engine and then check current to coils. If no current to plugs and fuel pump is not kicking on. You pull the fuel relay and bridge it. (pin 30 to 87) hear the fuel pump kick in? Then you know it can only be either Crank sensor or DME. If you do not hear it kick in you know fuel pump is bad!
you should use starting fliud (ether) in intake not carb cleaner. carb cleaner is called carb cleaner for a reason. its to clean carbs, not assist in starting.
I have a problem with cold starting. Where when I start it and let it run cold the idle drops from 700 flat to maybe 300 and back to 700. It even killed on me once recently. Just tryna see what’s the problem. It threw a code for IAC valve but I got rid of the codes and I haven’t had any codes since but I still have the problem. What is it? I also just got a ticking noise that ticks when it wants but I don’t know what that is either. I have a E39 528i w/ M52
2:44 lol,sounded like he said "the trash control." and on a more serious note: … I don't understand how these cars have these sensors that go out, and then cause the car not to run. Seems like it's a monumental case of defeating the purpose!!! I have an E38 which was doing something like this engine is doing, and by dumb luck I stumbled upon a bimmerforum post that said to replace the crank sensor, and it just seemed right to me, so I did and it worked beautifully. Defeating the purpose or not, I sure was happy that that was the only problem!
Nathan how are you I'm having problems stating my e39 2.8L 1998 BMW I changed fuel pump, camshaft sensor and ignition switch. What could be the problem it turned over but not start.
I have a 2000 e46 mine did this now wont fire at all!! I've replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump runs fuel filter both crank sensors oil pressure level sensor and oil switch sensor still nothing! And I'm now out of ideas! Any chance you got an idea?
Question bro, I have a 2000 e46 323i I replaced cam shaft position sensor both of them and once I go past 4,000 rpm the EML light goes on I was told I need a distributor also that pedal position valve is mechanically stuck would that make my car idle and stay under 40 mph ..?
Today's update is the car will barely run with the new sensors, I tried 2 other sensors and changed the fuel pump and same problem, runs but badly and is really hard to start with p0335 code, so I guess next is the wiring harness
Nathan, do you have an o' scope? it would be nice to see the actual sine wave...can you keep it running with propane? if so injectors?...I made an injector cleaner// tester with some 1 1/2" pipe filled with chem tool and an air inlet /outlet connected to each injector and 9 v battery to inject. solenoid for testing, anyway having fun watching and learning...
Well I can unplug the crank sensor and the car runs exactly the same with the exact same code, and like I said no problems leading up to this , he just came out to start it in the morning and it started and died and then nothing, there isn't too many cars that stump me like this one, but this one is being a royal pain in the ...
sometimes car starts normally,sometimes it takes time to start, sometimes it drivers normally, sometimes it looses power and vibrates, changed camshaft sensor (wired), it's still the same,could you tell me if these are the symptoms of crankshaft sensor? bmw e39 530i .And if not,what else could it be? ??? Thanks in advance
It gets cold out here in Connecticut and well and he's for certain reasons my car pulls up a code and it still won't start until the temperature rises then the vehicles and starts up with no problem crankshaft sensor can I be the fault cuz that was the code that came up impossibility battery issue Maybe
Just to clarify the OBD scanner read codes p0202 / p0204 /p0203 so I looked it up and it’s related to voltage at injectors...could I have possibly not plugged the electrical harness for injectors in correctly...I forgot to mention that I also replaced valve cover gasket when I did the starter replacement
Hi Nathan just wanted to say think your videos are great, i have a 1997 BMW 5 series 2.0 and had a problem with a broken cable to open bonnet and you've helped me sort that. Also just wanted to ask your advice, I had a driver's side spring collapse on me about 18 months ago? I have changed both struts and springs, been through Mot and been seen by 2 other garages who say there is nothing wrong. Also changed track rod ends and I'm still getting wandering steering and having to constantly correct when driving along. Could it be filters in the power assisted reservoir or tank. I have been on many sites and many have said it could a number of different problems. I am a mechanic but this has really stumped me. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thankyou
+Stephen Dobson Hello check your control thrust arms and also check alignment, i have videos on both of those topics up, the control arm video was just a few days ago
To replace the Crankshaft sensor it is easier to do from the bottom, all you have to do is to remove the subframe support plate and let the control arm lose so you can reach for it. But that didn't fix my problem, after the replacement of both sensors (OEM) nothing changed the car will start but once it gets to op temperature and once turned off it won't start again and it keeps throwing the crankshaft sensor circuit and camshaft A sensor circuit codes. . I am baffled Thinking of the wiring issue but then why both sensors? And why it starts and doesn't throw codes when its cold?
I have a question I was driving my E 39 on the highway I was accelerating to about 80 miles an hour all of a sudden I couldn’t accelerate anymore it start decreasing then I had to pull over in a cut off. I had it over a quarter tank of gas and it wouldn’t start back up until I put more gas in it do you think it’s my crankshaft and camshaft
Hi there...nice job you are doing...i have a BMW e36 328 and when the car warm up it has issues to restart and when I stop the engine dies...I have the crankshaft sensor replace and nothing then I have the camshaft sensor and know it has hard time to rev up it dies when I live the gas pedal and it smells badly baseline...can it be the spurk plugs?thanks
Replaced my crank sensor and rpms still don't show while trying to start. I changed fuel pump, crank sensor and still no start. Also new relays. 2000 528i.
Nathan.... Thanks so much for this Vid.. Will try all your suggestions.. If they don't work, I'll be sure to watch another Vid from you mate. Ta.. from... "Pete Down Under"
I need help please I recently got my first car it's a 1993 BMW 740i 7 series and it cranks but no start I replaced the fuel pump and fuel relay but still nothing the fuel pump is not even kicking on idk what to do
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Hello i need your help pls, i got a BMW e46 320d 2004 years and one day i got a problems on start with engine hot temperatur, the next day the car will start very nice but when engine temperatur is up to hot, when i stop the car and come back at 20min later it will not starting, the car have crank but not starting, i replaced the camshaft sensor but is not that, some people tell me maybe its the crankshaft sensor what do you think about that? And when car start on cold i have no problem in driving. Thank you for your help( and my problem is only when engine temperatur (℃) of the car is hot and i need to wait 1 hour maybe 2 hours and she restart).
Awesome video Nathan. I noticed that there's a lot of oil and grease on the outside of the power steering fluid reservoir. I have the same issue with my M54, where do you think it's coming from?
+Mohammed Khattari That means the filter is stopped up in the bottom of the tank, you can buy a new tank for under $20 new off ebay, that will fix your problem, some people take the tank off and clean it also.
i have a 745li that has fuel in fuel rail, has spark at plugs and fire in connections that connect to injectors would you have any idea of what my problem could be for a crank no start problem on this
Nathan, I love your videos! Any plans on getting newer models? I think I have a bad crankshaft sensor on my e60. Thanks for all your hard work on these videos.
hı nathan my name is semih.. ı got bmw e34 520i so . it is not starting. the camshaft sensor is bad too like this e39 . so if ı buy new sensor cable it can be start again.?? or only sensor cable not any big deal.??
CLICK HERE TO BUY THE M54 /M52TU/M52 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR
amzn.to/2O1W2FQ
I thought the crankshaft position sensor was under the car by the transmission??
@@isaiahhope5877 It is, on my M54.
I have this problem with 2 different sensors. Should I just remove the o ring? Thank you!
@@isaiahhope58771:44
I know this is a old video but over the last 4-5 years your old E39 videos "I probably watched them all" helped me out tremendously, when I got the car it was already old and mistreated but your videos help me to fix and drive
Glad to hear that sir thanks for watching
I fixed my CEL with the P0340 and the car runs like new. What I have learned the hard way is not to use ANY other brand than the BMW original part OR VDO (Siemens or Continental). There are brand names like Hella, Meyle or Bremi who have excellent products normally but BMW's are very special about their sensors!
The problem many people miss is that a new non-BMW or non-VDO CPS might work exactely like the old damaged one; Making people believe that the problem must be in the wiring or the Crankshaft position sensor; BMW must have a failsafe system that it still runs with the "wrong" sensor making the problem so hard to diagnose.
There are horror stories in the forums where people replaced harnesses and DME's just to find out that the sensor was the problem after all. The car might still start with a non-oem sensor; before you rule out the CPS as the problem make sure that you put an VDO or BMW sensor in it. If it still doesn't work get a second replacement one from BMW directly. A new VDO one is like 90 dollars a BMW one about 150 - after spending hours tearing the car apart just think whether 150 dollars is really that bad to be one the safe side!
Never use imperial tools on a BMW! Their fixings are all metric. That's the reason you stripped out that Allen headed bolt.
I use metric as I am in Europe and they strip like crazy anyways :D
It's a 5mm allen screw, that's why it stripped.
These sensors get old, their signal diminishes over time, I consider them tune up parts and change out both.
Generally it's to correct a no spark, if it's a fuel issue try to diagnose maf vs fuel system issues.
Maf sensors usually fire and then die, it won't continue to run no matter what.
Great video, shows that even with experience the pro's
Can also get stumped. But if you stick with it you will
Find the problem. Big of you to admit the carb spray
Error, as a former tech of 30 years, I have worked
With many a tech that would not admit a error on their
Part. You are a great tech and person for putting
All this live on RUclips to watch.
Keep em coming, thanks
I have changed the sensor always from below and never had any issue. It takes about 20 min to change that way. You can not see it but you can change it by feel.
Or you can use a retractable automotive mirror and you can see it just fine, albeit inverse (your girlfriend's makeup compact mirror works great too!)
You guys must have little tiny hands. Busting knuckles from underneath, can feel it, even get allen wrench in it but no room to crank
went in from the top like in this video, Got it changed out and now it is starting again. whew
This is great, I had codes P0443 and P0340, replaced camshaft sensor, purge valve and gas tank cap with oem parts and problem still persists. Is there a way I can send you the video of what is happening? I turn the key, engine starts but “dies” right away without idling.
Did you figure out? I got the same problem
Ecu reset ?
You’re video really helped me thank you! Was looking at it tonight going… where is it?! I would say that you may have stripped it because it’s 5mm. 3/16 is 4.76mm.
guys dont use a 3/16 allen use a 5mm and it should come out a 3/16 will strip it
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾jejeee❓ thank you bioel
Rene Rivas ask me how I know lol 😂
Had very similar symptoms on my '98 4.4, but it turned out to be the MAF (I replaced both the cam and crank sensors first without success). A cheap aftermarket MAF might be worth trying if anyone has similar symptoms to this vid. Btw, while aftermarket MAF's are fine, aftermarket cam sensors even by meile just don't work, they are garbage. I tried 2 of them before giving up and buying genuine.
I have the similar issue.my 2003 525i starts today and a no start three hours later
fred hickling hello I'm having the same problem on my 2005 bmw 525i
agree aftermarket sensors didnt work for me other than using them or toolbax decorations.
Just unplug the maf, if it starts it the maf, works like a charm on the e36. Had to do it several times before
We are having something similar with the 2003 bmw 325ci . It’s struggling to start but start after 3 times trying, we change gas pump and start well , but them back to same as it was before. I was frustrated and toke it to a mechanic friend of mine. He started the car well all the times he tryout! He told me he couldn’t fine anything wrong! I drove it when to put gas and start fine . Them when on the day and later after 3 hrs in the parking, I went to drive around and omg ! Back to struggle to start, but it did ! Don’t know what could be wrong?!
You found something? Same problem here
After stripping my hex bolt, I Used a 3/8 socket to hammer over the stripped bn olt head and turned it 1/4 at a time hammering each time cause it would slip off after a 1/4 turn.
Thanks alot.
I replaced both Cam and Crankshaft sensor CPS. VDO brand.
The old one was Siemens.
I took off the front bumper.
Radiator, oil coolers because had a oil leaking there.
Need to give this E39 full service.
Water leak
Oil leaks.
Bosch v belt
New waterpump GMB
Tensioner bearing and Jockey wheel bearing.
Alternator bearings and the brush runner.
Water bottle
2x water hoses.
Thermostat housing O-Ring and seal.
O-rings on oil cooler hoses.
Power steering bottle return hoses replace.
Vanos hoses leak. Replace hose
Vanos leak on gasket.
So I remove the tapped cover and turned the 60-2 OT mark on Crankshaft wheel where CPS sits.
Checked the cam shaft timming.
Exhaust cam was retarded and intake cam was a bit advanced.
(Removed al 6 sparkplugs all of them was carbon up badly, to turn crank)
Cleaned it up placed Victor Reinz silicon sealer on Vanos seal to head and Reset timming with Stainless steel Ruler on to dubble dots on flat on both Cam shafts.
After setting. Turned Crankshaft 2 CW and it cam perfectly! OT mark
New tapped cover rubber gasket.
Send 6 injectors in for spray test and sonic bath cleaning.
New 6 x injector front tip O-rings to seal vacuum leak.
Intake manufold rubber seals to cylinder head.
Vapor oil separator under intake manufold replace because of oil drain was blocked.
Oily intake ports.
New Throttle cable genuine BMW PART like R330. Super great price!
Oil filter Wix
Air filter febi bilstein
Cabin air polin filters topran
Antifreeze 1l and battery water distilled 8l
New engine oil 7l 5w40 Motal.
Air temp sensor new
Water temp sensor new
Started car and it runs great!
2004 330i blowing 20 amp fuses in the triangle box under the hood where the ECM is located. The fuse is a 20 amp fuse in the center of a group of 5 fuses. It controls fuel pump and cam and crank sensors. I unplugged the fuel pump and it still blows. Have you ever heard of a crank sensor going bad and resulting in blowing the fuse the second you turn the ignition on?
hi Nathan, my e46 have an issue. i put the key in, the radio and the dash lights come on but when i turn the key nothing happen. i change the ignition switch and it work for a couple hours, then dont start another time. I try with an new brand ignition switch and doesnt work. i check the the tiny box in the underhood fuse box and all the fuse are right. Please help me.
Dude thank you so much I love your videos & they have saved me a lot in money for repairs. I just got a used 525i had this problem. Watched your video did what you said & it worked like a charm. Thanks Bro!!
The connectors of the scamshaft and crankshaft sensors can be accessed directly beneath the intake manifold by simply removing the air filter box.
Good Info.I Had an e 36 1993 325i with crank no start. No spark no fuel. After much investigating ,including changing the crankshaft position sensor found out the dme was damaged from water. These older cars have seals that go bad and can let water in the engine compartment. I went to a junkyard and got one for 20.00 . Lucky it was EWS1! Also ,check the fuel pump relay .the horn relay can be used for a quick swap to diagnose.
+traxxas man Yea the e36's are bad for that, i have one here right now that will not start, i will get some videos up of it when i get time to work on it
I have a 94. 325i and have no power to fuel pump or no spark and I ordered a chip Ews delete chip for the 413 maroon and I hope it fixes it
let me know what happens
What happen is the cam and crank both went at the same time.. then my pump wouldn't turn on because the ews1 system sent a message to DME to turn fuel off,. So if the cam sensor is bad the fuel and spark are a no go.. as what I been reading about Ews systems. as well my fuel pump gave out.. it had no power to the pump it's self', ,,had to replace that.. got that done,. The Ews delete chip was a fail that I had bought,. I did go to the junk yard and pulled some chips. And I now have power to the pumps and spark.
The problem is my DME is saying I have a faulty cam sensor. Soo the question is am I supposed to get a high reading on all 3 wires on the cam connector? Or just 2. I have high volts on 2 out of 3. The third is dead.. when having the needle touching also use the same dead socket and get no reaction to the other 2 plugs, so I'm not sure.
@nathan ever since watching your videos i have had more clarity of what to do never have worked on bmws.. thanks man keep making them videod
I have a question, was the diagnose of a bad crankshaft sensor was the correct one for this problem? My car is doing exactly the same but there is no check engine light on :(
after you changed the crank sensor did you have power to the fuel pump relay. because I have no power ,coming from the relay.. I read the crank sensor sends a signal to the dme. that turns on the relay.... is that true.?
Wait a minute!
So you're saying that you replaced the sensors before checking the fuses, relays or for power at the fuel pump?
Or is there no power at the fuel pump if you have a bad sensor?
I have no power at the pump but the fuses and relays are all fine and dandy, just like Randy!
I'm charging my battery overnight to go exchange it at Costco if it doesn't charge.
Once I have the new battery, if it doesn't start, I try the Crank position sensor first because I had it replaced in 2014. That was a job I had to pay for because I could barely feel it but couldn't see it.
If the crankshaft position sensor is good then the needle will move on the tach while you are cranking the engine over.
my friend i have scan my e39 520i m52 b20 .... crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor when we delete the 2 erors ....only camshaft sensor is back.... something interesting the car has slow acceleration and at low speeds jerks a little bit and first startup in morning it takes a more time its difficult like 10 sec cranking than power of and on and starts up easy .....after that every startup is instant ....fuel economy is worse ....from 13 14 city now at 19 20 liters per 100 km
Same here, what did you do to resolve the problem ?
DIY mechanic, just like me , but systematic on problem solving
I like it
many thanks Mate
Yes and half of the issues are caused by other mechanics messing with things they know nothing about
the 1st thing he use the 32 wrench for ..mines is stuck on any helpful ideas ... i have used a 32 wrench which it stripped it then i put a mix of dw40 and asitone ..still stripped and now rust
You are an awesome resource Nathan. I learn so much watching your videos - i appreciate the way you go about explaining things. And you can be pretty damn funny at times as well.
Thanks for watching man
damn wouldn't be easier to go from the bottom for that crank sensor? What other symptoms could lead to crank sensor failure? Any known codes?
I love watching your vids. You have helped me heaps with my e39 bmw.Well done mate .... Steve from downunder (QLD Australia)
Likewise!
My 2000 BMW 323i when you turn the key to start it and it just goes click once. I have installed a new starter, new battery and took off positive battery cable and it continue to run in beginning but now for some reason it won't start back up. Even got a new coded key for it. All battery hook ups are good.
crazy. my 540i is throwing an intermittent code for cam sensor. sometimes it starts and sometimes it won't. I ordered 1 but wrong sensor was to.long hopefully the correct one comes Saturday
+frank aranda I have had that before with the 4.4, if yours is the 99 and up vanos engine the sensors are hard to find and expensive, i would do the crank sensor, yours is on the bottom passenger side and is easy to change, sometimes the ecu has a hard time telling the cam sensor from the crank sensor as far as throwing codes, also it could be the start of vanos failure or timing chain guides, lets hope not.I might have a set of good oem sensors here ill have to look.
+Nathan's DIY Garage
OK. sounds good. mine is a 98. 7/98 I believe build date. I guess there is 2 different cam sensors this year. at the part stores.but let me know if you have some. thanks
I have a 98 740 sitting here so I will check it out and let you know tomorrow
Hello,
While reading error codes on my BMW 318d 105kw n47 11/2008 LCI, it's reporting in dde an fault code 4CA7 fuel temperature sensor, plausibility - do you maybe know what it represents, where this sensor is placed? Thanks, Daniel.
My crankshaft sensor has a 10mm hex bolt on it but there isn't enough space for my ratchet to connect, there's something by the starter that extends out. What should I do?
This is GOLD! Much appreciated video !!
On my 540i the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors look identical. They are both in the front and very easy to locate. I replaced one and still no luck. Will wd40/ butane/propane work instead of carb cleaner?
Nathan isnt this the camshaft sensor? Its on the head? Isnt the crank sensor on the front down under the thermostat?
You're possibly thinking of the E46 ?
@@antiochiaadtaurum3786 why would a crank sensor be next to the cam. You worked on a m5x before?
@@mnz9999 I was thinking of 50s kid working on e46’s. I’ve never gone near e46, only e39
@@antiochiaadtaurum3786 not sure I understand your post. However, it’s a m52b28, same in e36 and e39. The crank sensor is down next to the crank lol that’s how it reads it. Hes replaced the cam sensor here, it’s next to the camshaft lol. The sensors are Hall effect magnetic. Google is your friend here.
Just to be clear. I’ve done both cam and crank on m52b28 single vanos. 100,000,000% this is the CAM sensor.
I have an E39 off question. My daughter has a 2002 E39 (530i). I have replaced three window regulators with new motors in them. They all rolled beautifully at first, but are becoming more resistant as time progresses. With in a few weeks of replacement to be exact. Any reason as to why this is happening?
Quick question, if the head breaks off, is it possible to rethread a slightly bigger bolt to reinstall a new one?
What size socket did you use to hammer over the striped bolt ?
replace the coil packs on a 2000 BMW 328i still running rough need to know what else to look for three of the coil packs from bad and I think the guy drove with coil packs bad back to his house but not sure wondering if it could be the plugs or the catalytic converter clogged did you give me some suggestions
Hey I have an E90 that I replaced the starter for recently and now it’s cranking but won’t stay on...did I not plug something in or could I also have an issue with the crankcase sensor? It flutters slightly but won’t stay on I also replaced fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump the week prior so I’m confident it has fuel delivery
OK EVERYONE IS THROWING PARTS on the car and hoping. You are all doing it wrong! Check fuel coming to engine and then check current to coils. If no current to plugs and fuel pump is not kicking on. You pull the fuel relay and bridge it. (pin 30 to 87) hear the fuel pump kick in? Then you know it can only be either Crank sensor or DME. If you do not hear it kick in you know fuel pump is bad!
I beleive the EWSll will cause the exact same problem, but agree with your theory. Process of elimination.
What’s your ig or any way I can contact u
So it’s my crank sensor or dme ? I get fuel to engine but it won’t start
@@euro-trash9171 If it was ews it won't crank.
can I delete traction control? Also, do these sensors cause backfires and popping sucking air in engine?
nathan, i was trying to find the second part of the video! where is it bro???
you should use starting fliud (ether) in intake not carb cleaner. carb cleaner is called carb cleaner for a reason. its to clean carbs, not assist in starting.
I have a problem with cold starting. Where when I start it and let it run cold the idle drops from 700 flat to maybe 300 and back to 700. It even killed on me once recently. Just tryna see what’s the problem. It threw a code for IAC valve but I got rid of the codes and I haven’t had any codes since but I still have the problem. What is it? I also just got a ticking noise that ticks when it wants but I don’t know what that is either. I have a E39 528i w/ M52
Do i have to change both camshaft and crankshaft sensors?
2:44 lol,sounded like he said "the trash control."
and on a more serious note: … I don't understand how these cars have these sensors that go out, and then cause the car not to run. Seems like it's a monumental case of defeating the purpose!!! I have an E38 which was doing something like this engine is doing, and by dumb luck I stumbled upon a bimmerforum post that said to replace the crank sensor, and it just seemed right to me, so I did and it worked beautifully. Defeating the purpose or not, I sure was happy that that was the only problem!
They tell the computer the angle of rotation and affects every aspect of operation
That's cool! I had never heard of the term "a straight screwdriver" before. Very cool!
DON'T use vice grips! I just learned the hard way, go out to the store and get a 32mm wrench don't strip it over some laziness
If thats The crankshaft sensor. Ten what is the sensor next to The thermostat housing. It looks The same?
Intake camshaft position sensor
Thank you for this film. Have a good day.
I have a 2003 745i just cranks no start fuel in fuel rail . Getting code p 0390 cam sensor b bank 2 not getting spark would it be the crank sensor
This just helped me thanks wish I could pay for this knowledge
Nathan how are you I'm having problems stating my e39 2.8L 1998 BMW I changed fuel pump, camshaft sensor and ignition switch. What could be the problem it turned over but not start.
Crankshaft sensor..
Fuel pump relay was bad
What about a 91 535i no start . Same issue ?
I have a 2000 e46 mine did this now wont fire at all!! I've replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump runs fuel filter both crank sensors oil pressure level sensor and oil switch sensor still nothing! And I'm now out of ideas! Any chance you got an idea?
experiencing same problem... crank but won't start.. no check engine light either.. e36 m52 here.
Muy bien
Question bro, I have a 2000 e46 323i I replaced cam shaft position sensor both of them and once I go past 4,000 rpm the EML light goes on I was told I need a distributor also that pedal position valve is mechanically stuck would that make my car idle and stay under 40 mph ..?
I have the same problem ,as you solved at the end
aww man...I would have done the same thing, I try to use propane when the torch is handy.....anyway another good video, thanks Nathan.
Today's update is the car will barely run with the new sensors, I tried 2 other sensors and changed the fuel pump and same problem, runs but badly and is really hard to start with p0335 code, so I guess next is the wiring harness
Nathan, do you have an o' scope? it would be nice to see the actual sine wave...can you keep it running with propane? if so injectors?...I made an injector cleaner// tester with some
1 1/2" pipe filled with chem tool and an air inlet /outlet connected to each injector and 9 v battery to inject. solenoid for testing, anyway having fun watching and learning...
Well I can unplug the crank sensor and the car runs exactly the same with the exact same code, and like I said no problems leading up to this , he just came out to start it in the morning and it started and died and then nothing, there isn't too many cars that stump me like this one, but this one is being a royal pain in the ...
sometimes car starts normally,sometimes it takes time to start, sometimes it drivers normally, sometimes it looses power and vibrates, changed camshaft sensor (wired), it's still the same,could you tell me if these are the symptoms of crankshaft sensor? bmw e39 530i .And if not,what else could it be? ??? Thanks in advance
Name Less did you fix the problem? Was it the crankshaft sensor? My e39 has the exact same symptoms as you described. Thanks in advance.
Hi, IF the scener shows camshift senor, can it be problem with the shain?
It gets cold out here in Connecticut and well and he's for certain reasons my car pulls up a code and it still won't start until the temperature rises then the vehicles and starts up with no problem crankshaft sensor can I be the fault cuz that was the code that came up impossibility battery issue Maybe
Have you tried taking out the Idle control valve and clean up that one?
Why not use starting fluid?
where does the braided ground wire go that is inbetween coilpack 6 &5 on a 1994 e36 325is
Thank you for the video! thought i was going to have to take the entire intake off
Just to clarify the OBD scanner read codes p0202 / p0204 /p0203 so I looked it up and it’s related to voltage at injectors...could I have possibly not plugged the electrical harness for injectors in correctly...I forgot to mention that I also replaced valve cover gasket when I did the starter replacement
Hi Nathan just wanted to say think your videos are great, i have a 1997 BMW 5 series 2.0 and had a problem with a broken cable to open bonnet and you've helped me sort that. Also just wanted to ask your advice, I had a driver's side spring collapse on me about 18 months ago? I have changed both struts and springs, been through Mot and been seen by 2 other garages who say there is nothing wrong. Also changed track rod ends and I'm still getting wandering steering and having to constantly correct when driving along. Could it be filters in the power assisted reservoir or tank. I have been on many sites and many have said it could a number of different problems. I am a mechanic but this has really stumped me. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thankyou
+Stephen Dobson Hello check your control thrust arms and also check alignment, i have videos on both of those topics up, the control arm video was just a few days ago
Found video very helpfull thanks !😊
hello . i have an e36. it died on me at a red light. same issue. towed it home. next day it started normal. do you know what this is?
Great video for the BMW backyard wrench. Thank you.
Replaced crankshaft position sensor on 2007 BMW 525so and now won't start
I think you can get that crank sensor easier from the bottom
Where is the oe censor located at then
My bmw 525i e 39 won't start after changing a gearbox but it cranks any help what might be the problem?
Good idea to check Oil level and condition too
One more thing remove crankshaft position sensor from under the vehicle. It is much easier and you don't have to take half the motor apart!
To replace the Crankshaft sensor it is easier to do from the bottom, all you have to do is to remove the subframe support plate and let the control arm lose so you can reach for it.
But that didn't fix my problem, after the replacement of both sensors (OEM) nothing changed the car will start but once it gets to op temperature and once turned off it won't start again and it keeps throwing the crankshaft sensor circuit and camshaft A sensor circuit codes. .
I am baffled
Thinking of the wiring issue but then why both sensors? And why it starts and doesn't throw codes when its cold?
Hi, did you solve this?
and also did you ever check the fuel pump?
I have a 08 bmw 750li crank and won’t start
I have a question I was driving my E 39 on the highway I was accelerating to about 80 miles an hour all of a sudden I couldn’t accelerate anymore it start decreasing then I had to pull over in a cut off. I had it over a quarter tank of gas and it wouldn’t start back up until I put more gas in it do you think it’s my crankshaft and camshaft
Was it the timing chain?
Did you ever figure it out this just happened to me.
Do not use Carb. Cleaner, brake cleaner is best, it won’t bugger up the rubber and plastic like carb cleaner will
Hi there...nice job you are doing...i have a BMW e36 328 and when the car warm up it has issues to restart and when I stop the engine dies...I have the crankshaft sensor replace and nothing then I have the camshaft sensor and know it has hard time to rev up it dies when I live the gas pedal and it smells badly baseline...can it be the spurk plugs?thanks
Did you use a china crank sensor? any codes?
No all from bmw dealership....the problem was the MAF....keep up great and helpful videos you make....
Hey guys can I ask what a ( MAF ) is. ???? Thanx. Pete.
Peter Campbell mass air flow
Replaced my crank sensor and rpms still don't show while trying to start. I changed fuel pump, crank sensor and still no start. Also new relays. 2000 528i.
OCD Garage check the fuse by the ecu
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Where can I find it?
@@NathansBMWWorkshop I check the block with the 4 30 amp and 1 20 amp fuse and they all were in tact. What now?
Nathan.... Thanks so much for this Vid..
Will try all your suggestions.. If they don't work, I'll be sure to watch another Vid from you mate. Ta..
from... "Pete Down Under"
What size socket did you use to get the hex bolt out?
I'm wondering the same thing.. stripped my bolt also
I used a 3/8 socket to hammer over the stripped hex screw..
I know this video is old. But I’ve got a 1997 328i. P0335 code. Replaced both the crank and cam sensor. Still no start and code keeps coming back.
Did you ever sort this?
@@rileydinessure didn’t.
Love the videos you post but i can't seem to find the video on the ccv delete on an m52 motor
I need help please I recently got my first car it's a 1993 BMW 740i 7 series and it cranks but no start I replaced the fuel pump and fuel relay but still nothing the fuel pump is not even kicking on idk what to do
run a diagnose
most likely this will be an EWS problem its the key reader. but you can use the process of elimination to confirm my EWS theory.
Thank you for the effort friend and very good explaining
And Thank you for watching
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Hello i need your help pls, i got a BMW e46 320d 2004 years and one day i got a problems on start with engine hot temperatur, the next day the car will start very nice but when engine temperatur is up to hot, when i stop the car and come back at 20min later it will not starting, the car have crank but not starting, i replaced the camshaft sensor but is not that, some people tell me maybe its the crankshaft sensor what do you think about that? And when car start on cold i have no problem in driving. Thank you for your help( and my problem is only when engine temperatur (℃) of the car is hot and i need to wait 1 hour maybe 2 hours and she restart).
Awesome video Nathan. I noticed that there's a lot of oil and grease on the outside of the power steering fluid reservoir. I have the same issue with my M54, where do you think it's coming from?
+Mohammed Khattari That means the filter is stopped up in the bottom of the tank, you can buy a new tank for under $20 new off ebay, that will fix your problem, some people take the tank off and clean it also.
+Nathan's DIY Garage I'll try a new filter. Thanks!
I mean a new reservoir
would i be wrong to say just check for fuel in fuel rail ? im having some problems with my 745li thats why i ask this
This ended up being the crank sensor, but remember the crank sensor activates the pump, so if its bad you might not have fuel pressure
i have a 745li that has fuel in fuel rail, has spark at plugs and fire in connections that connect to injectors would you have any idea of what my problem could be for a crank no start problem on this
yes the ecu fuse, if i remember right it is on the side of the ecu, also could be a key transponder problem
thanks ill look into that hopefully i can figure it out thanks again
İs this camshaft or cranck shaft sensor?
Crankshaft Position Sensor does this.
they actually feed into the same code on some BMW models like X3's. one could b shorting the other out.
Hey Nathan Awsome video as always can you do one on how to check the fuses and which ones are likely to go out. Thank You for all your hard work
Good idea I will do that soon
Nathan, I love your videos! Any plans on getting newer models? I think I have a bad crankshaft sensor on my e60. Thanks for all your hard work on these videos.
+patlank i am sure one day soon things will change over to the e60 and e90 as prices come down
I have a e38, same prob fixed and running grrrreat
hı nathan my name is semih.. ı got bmw e34 520i so . it is not starting. the camshaft sensor is bad too like this e39 .
so if ı buy new sensor cable it can be start again.?? or only sensor cable not any big deal.??
the cable should not go bad, you should just need the sensor
What if I unplug this part?