The only thing missing is a partner check and an emphasis on proper belay technique (mostly just “never ever let go of the dead end”). But I guess that would make it too long. Maybe also point out situations which are actually dangerous (like clipping above your head when you are below the third or fourth quickdraw on a typical route).
Maybe one can add that skipping quick draws is not allowed in some (most?) climbing gyms - not even for the purpose of fall training. So maybe ask or inform staff before you try this, [Edit]: In Hilden it is for example it is indeed not allowed unless you inform staff. :)
I just wanted to thank you for making this video. I have had such a hard time managing the fear of falling. After I watched this video, I decided the only thing that will help is to do this same training at the beginning of every climbing session in the gym. I am actually seeing a little progress! From being petrified (freezing on the wall, crying, etc) to actually going for some moves and taking falls (even outdoors!). I still get nervous when I go to the gym because I know I'll have to take these falls, but after I get them over with I climb so much better and even enjoy the session. I rewatch this video every time I start to get nervous and it helps change my mindset. Thank you again!
i would not be so afraid of falling if i had a belayer like this, nice dynamic catches. With some of my friends it is scary enough just to let them belay me xD
@@SchaeferPhilipp ofcourse they are :D But not all of them have been climbing for long, and some only recently got their 'belay-certificate'. they need to practice more. It's not that i don't trust they will catch me, just that it won't be very dynamic. But i also have some that i should talk to, that give too much slack, that everytime i look down are looking at someone else climbing when they should be looking at me, etc.. I usually don't let them belay me when I'm pushing grades. Those might be even wrose than the newcomers, at least the newcomers pay attention to the climber. And ofcourse i have those who are really great belayers, but i can't always have my pick..
I have done the drills in the video twice now, has made such a difference, I actually love when my belayer says fall, that drill is amazing. Feels like falling is becoming fun now instead of terrifying! thanks so much! x
Agreed on the ledges. That’s why I’m usually more scared on easy routes on real rock because they often have parts above ledges where you really shouldn’t fall (though it’s often actually less dangerous than it looks/feels). Falling on slabs is surprisingly fine, of course the more vertical the better.
Yup, exactly what I wanted to comment about. I remember, without any fall training, going dynamically for the last hold and taking a 3-4m fall, no problem. Except it was vertical/slightly overhanging. Then I fell twice on slabs and both times ended kicking the wall :sob:
as a beginner i tried this and i helped so much. i was "mentally" stuck at 6+ and right away the same day we did the training i almost made a 7. thanks for that!
Thank you so much for this video! I have been climbing for years but never let myself try as hard as I should on lead as I WONT FALL. But 1 session of working through these techniques, I can now try hard and happily fall on lead, instantly increased by lead grade by 2! 3 falls in, I actually enjoyed them! Thank you so so much!!!
Haha I was just making a joke pointing to the point I said that was riiight after the one you cited ;) Anyway thanks for cool eyes watching cool vids ;)
Great tutorial. Although regularly fall training I got new ideas to try out. One more simple advice. Breath out while falling. It helps to stay relaxed and observe instead of getting a shock.
Thank you so much for all your videos about falling! I was so afraid of falling but after your!!! videos (I watched a lot on youtube about this topic :D) and just two climbing session with your exercises I was able to committ a move above the clip, I fall and it was totally okay!!! Just angry that I didn' t managed the move. One of my favorit climbing channels :)!
Very good video as always. I consider myself as an exeprienced climber since i'm practicing on rocks since my young age and had many very good and experienced teachers. But i still learn so much small usefull tips in ur videos, and good explanations of their points. It's very rare. Don't stop ! And thank you for making this growing community a safer place !
Yeeaah, waiting is over! This episode is awesome! I watched all your videos while i started lead climbing and it helped me a lot to NOT develop fear of falling. Hannah taught me climbing in Lead-mode and we already did some touch and gos on our first session. Keep going with this channel, its awesome! Thank you very much!
Sometimes I question if spending time on these videos makes sense... But comments like yours really puts my perspective and focus on where it should be to make this work ;) Thank You!
I was looking for so long for a resource that addresses fear of falling while clipping, since that is my biggest fear... Thank you so much for this video.
Get comfortable taking falls where your qd is at your waist level (best clipping position). Then If you take the rope for clipping that adds only very small amount of extra rope... Don't forget to let the rope go when you fall ;)
@@HardIsEasy Just letting you know that your approach works and during last 2 weeks of practicing your systematic approach, fear of falling doesn't stop me that much anymore. Regarding clipping we modified the approach a bit: we started from falling while clipping imaginary clip close to previous one and gradually increased the distance. Currently falling is a significant part of my lead-warm up routine. Thank you so much!
@@nphardness that is very nice approach to clipping falling ;) You are getting close soon you won't think about falling anymore ;) start projecting harder climbs ;)
thank you so much, I have never wanted to even do top rope before this because I was so scared of falling, but after doing this for a couple day's I'm actually excited to do top rope over bouldering
Thank you so much for all of your videos I just started climbing it’s such a fun and challenging sport.you and your friends are amazing for making these to help others
Great video, I had terrible problems with fear committing to moves even on easy grades on lead until I did fall practice (similar to this but nowhere near as varied) and most lead sessions now I start with a few falls just to get going and the difference is massive. The additional part that I hadn't considered was the practice for the belayer, I am very picky about who I will do lead climbing with but running drills like this helps the climber and the belayer develop their skills. The first clip fear is still there but outdoors I use a clipstick just in case :)
I'm super afraid of lead falls, I'll try this in one of my next sessions. Especially, the touch and fall techniques and their variations seem like a really good way to trick my mind. I think it will feel like an unintentional fall. Moreover, your full brain is not occupied with falling, but partly on doing that move, intentionally failing and falling. Amazing trick! I will try to give an update here if it worked for me
Great video! I trained a lot of straight falls, even high ones, but the idea of practicing falls from beside the route is new to me. So let's start :) ...
Thank you! If you are comfy at taking big falls already, just project hard routes that will expose you to lots of different weird falls ;) But fall practice could be great on warm ups ;)
I'm in the too scared to clip when I'm tired camp. I think this will really help me. Although, at our local gym, if you skip the first clip like you guys were doing they'll run out and beat you with sticks.
I'm gonna try this on my next trenings! Sometimes I get so terrified of the falling that I am not able to reach the top of the wall. Now I know what to do for the next few sessions:D thanks!!!!!!!
Very very nice video. The only thing I would add to it is the use of helmets, people are having very nasty falls lately. I recommend it very much. Good video ;)
09:00 The fall on command is something that hleped me massively, I had a big need for an incentive to fall on routes I could do (wasn't confident enough in my falling to do harder than a 5C)
Oh I needed this! I haven't been able to boulder for over a year because I had two panic attacks on the wall where I just could not make myself let go. I still love top ropes though! So maybe intentionally falling will help with that. Thank you for putting this together!
Part of my bouldering sessions always involves falling on purpose a few times early on so my body stops freaking out over it. It’s helped a lot. There were some climbs I couldn’t make because the height scared me but now I can go for them a lot easier.
Another great video, man! I have a couple of climbing partners who are still afraid to fall, will definitely incorporate some of these tips into our next sessions!
@@HardIsEasy Wasn't the easiest route to reclimb (no really easy steep routes at my local crag). But yeah, on balance might have been a good idea. Worked up to some monster falls anyway. :D
9:40 Bro, this moment was so funny 😂Oh and thanks for this amazing advice. Just got my toprope license so have to practise a lot and decrease the fear 😬
Im so scared that i hold onto everything like a tic😂🦟 but that wont be possible in harder routes and all soo i really have to get rid of it, i freeze and just hold as much as i can, i deny the fall so much, but it have to come one day🙈 once i had a swing on a top rope and it wasnt even that terrible actually i had so much joy just hanging there but still scared to fall or just let go, but this vid is really helpful and giving me confidence to try some falls😊 thank you❤️
You should keep an eye on the ends of the rope from time to time, it's normal that they get worned out and you need to cut them. And then having a full check of the rope is also not a bad idea at some point - especially if your rope got stuck somewhere or you had some crazy repel over sharp edges
@@HardIsEasy Doesn't matter, I love this video series. In my opinion the fall test really help me for lead climbing. Only on parts with my own placed gear I struggle a lot to climb higher when I have the feeling to not be able to control the situation and hold on to the wall.
This is great thank you! Before my first time rock climbing outdoor, I asked my friends to help me deal with my fear and I fell on purpose just above a quickdraw. Not sure what my belayer did but I slammed my feet against the wall, it was awful 😭
Ahhh sorry to hear about that slam... It's common mistake of inexperienced belayers... I have an old vid on soft catch... But I'm also going to make new content on belaying so you can force your climbing partners to watch ;)
Very nice videos, thankyou. But there's something bugging me: at 3:20 you're not spotting, and after, she's also skipping the first bolt. Care to explain? I guess the bolt skipping is to avoid hitting it when you get pulled up... But maybe putting a disclaimer or something, since it's often considered bad ti skip the first two bolts...
You have a good eye ;) and you are right I should have explained that skip of the bolt... Actually it's to make belaying easier... You can see that in some falls I jump as high as the first bolt... So I don't want my grigri stuck in the first quickdraw and also It's much more comfortable if the rope goes a bit more up than towards the wall. (Highly recommended if belayer is light) . And not spotting goes with evaluating the risks... She's climbing Jugs, there is no chance that she will fall there - but definitely spot if there is any risk involved.
My first big fall was about 35 feet while learning some rappelling, both people lost hold of the break rope 😅 my second big fall was on a top route where the rope got tangled in the anchor and the belayer couldnt pull in slack and I realized it a bit late haha, neither fall really scared me, the second hurt some because I got caught up in the rope some. But lead falls dont really bother me as much haha
Thanks a lot for this great content. I have been trying to find how to fall on a 6b slabby wall, I mean when youre hanging I can see. But I mean when there is rock that you can touch falling, thats where I dont know how to fall or how to overcome the fear of hitting yourself. Thanks 🙏
Ben, Thank you so very much for all of your videos. Sharing your knowledge and experience is priceless. I'm past the age of rock climbing and I am starting to rappel, in your opinion is it safe to practice short falls from a very low height by yourself if you anchor the standing end to a very secure anchor? Again, thanks so much Ben for all you do to help us become better climbers.
Cool video, awesome series!! Those falls looked very soft and pleasant. I’m curious, Hannah is probably lighter than you? How much? Also, “fancy belaying” is fancy ;) you tried to very quickly take in the excess slack that was out for clipping and immediately after catch dynamically? To reduce the time of free falling without breaking effect?
Yea, take out extra slack but give a soft catch... You need good reaction to do this ;) If you just take you break ankles of your climber.... and don't try with anything else than grigri, because the moment your break hand is up is dangerous with most belay devices... Also in the fall I did it it's not necessary... I was just practicing... If the fall were lower that would be a safest belay...
Thanks for the video! These are some really great exercises, and I may just have to try 'em out! :) Also, interesting that she's climbing with a.. retrace bowline? Hmmm!
Cool Video! Good to see some stuff of you again. The thing with my fear of falling is that i am afraid to fall in the lower parts, especially while clipping... Any tips for that? :(
If you are not comfy clipping first (or two) bolt - stick clip it ;) or if it's in the gym use better holds around to preclip. You can practice falling low as you've seen in the video but start from very small falls when you clipped above for your belayer to get a sense of how to catch such fall...
@@HardIsEasy Oh jeah, some stuff i preclip now when i know there is a good chance of falling when trying something hard but i still have a sooo bad feeling even on routes where i usually should not have a problem, especially slabs'n'stuff :/
Keep climbing, the more confident you will get at your climbing skills the less scary it's gonna be to take some "Free Solo" moments :D Till then make your self safe by preclips etc - no shame ;)
Thanks for the series ! Very motivational. Most of my climbing is on slabby routes. Any advice on how to fall and belay for less than vertical terrain? I was always told "well, don't fall in such cases!"
Nice progression, thanks! How to schedule all those falls - How many falls per session, or full sessions dedicated to just falling? Falling drains quite a lot of mental energy (at least in the beginning), that one also needs for (bold) lead climbing. Right now I can do just about 5 falls, then I need to switch to climbing. Slow process this way...
Once you’ve reached a certain level of fearlessness I’d incorporate it into the warmup. Usually we do 5 warmup routes or so and just don’t clip the top carabiner.
@@Mike-oz4cv Yep I know - I used to do clip and drop for one route 5th bolt to top. But I need to re-build that un-fear. After Corona, it's taking looonger this time, and I want to get back quickly.
Depends on your level... I wouldn't try to count falls tho... You can put it into your warm up or do as a separate training... If you are not very strong don't do that after climbing or you might get nervous to reach next clip... I only do them if I haven't taken a fall in a while... e.g. in the beginning of climbing trip... Or I notice that I'm nervous during climbing... And the cool thing is that once you get over that fear if you don't take falls in a while fear comes back, but it's much easier to deal with it next time ;) P.s. thanks for not falling on fake dramas months ago ;)
@@HardIsEasy Interestingly it's harder for me now, than it was first time. How many sessions did you do with Hanna for this video? PS: Funny that you noticed ;)
@@leoingson it was filmed in one session... Pretty much all the fall you see is all we did, buuut she was already very comfortable falling indoors and it was more to just show the steps... And find some ways to challenge her a bit ;) So take as much time as YOU need... Use the steps you've seen but don't move to crazy shit before you are really comfy. Also projecting harder routes is great as you've seen in previous videos ;) P.s. yea since I was the one responding to all the comments for years - I remember ppl like you ;)
Great video, can't wait to put it into practice! Curious how many of those falls a rope can take...some people say 5 and then it always gives me the fear!?
Wow!!! Love this method! Surely going training within it! Should i use a new rope or a middle used one?...I mean...I wouldn't like to fall so many many times on a new rope just to training falls...but...a middle used rope could be as safe as a new one to this aim??? Thank you so much if you like to answer my qstn.! P.S. Great....really great Videos! Like thm really!!
@7:53 what is that knot? Normally when tying a figure 8 the top section is done first, so it's not like she has just undone it. Also, it's too loose. This looks like some weird bowline type thing.
Great video! As the climber what is the best way to fall? Hold the rope or not? Try to land with both feet square to the wall? Any other tips? Thank you!
Soft as a cat absorbing impact with all your limbs ;) Ideally no grabbing the rope, only if you actually need to reposition your self in space... And thank you, you question goes to the list of videos to make ;)
I hope this is a last video you will ever need on this topic! I've used exact same process with many people with a great success - so
The only thing missing is a partner check and an emphasis on proper belay technique (mostly just “never ever let go of the dead end”). But I guess that would make it too long. Maybe also point out situations which are actually dangerous (like clipping above your head when you are below the third or fourth quickdraw on a typical route).
I have plans to DEEPLY cover the belaying (and more) in the future ;)
Bro I love this series! You guys are awesome for putting this together.
Maybe one can add that skipping quick draws is not allowed in some (most?) climbing gyms - not even for the purpose of fall training. So maybe ask or inform staff before you try this,
[Edit]: In Hilden it is for example it is indeed not allowed unless you inform staff. :)
I just wanted to thank you for making this video. I have had such a hard time managing the fear of falling. After I watched this video, I decided the only thing that will help is to do this same training at the beginning of every climbing session in the gym. I am actually seeing a little progress! From being petrified (freezing on the wall, crying, etc) to actually going for some moves and taking falls (even outdoors!). I still get nervous when I go to the gym because I know I'll have to take these falls, but after I get them over with I climb so much better and even enjoy the session. I rewatch this video every time I start to get nervous and it helps change my mindset. Thank you again!
i would not be so afraid of falling if i had a belayer like this, nice dynamic catches. With some of my friends it is scary enough just to let them belay me xD
This training is also good to practice belaying ;) But I have big plans to cover belaying in the future videos ;)
@@HardIsEasy please do, love your videos! just great!
Are they realy your friends then if you cant trust them to belay you? You need to have that conversation with them.
@@SchaeferPhilipp ofcourse they are :D But not all of them have been climbing for long, and some only recently got their 'belay-certificate'. they need to practice more. It's not that i don't trust they will catch me, just that it won't be very dynamic. But i also have some that i should talk to, that give too much slack, that everytime i look down are looking at someone else climbing when they should be looking at me, etc.. I usually don't let them belay me when I'm pushing grades. Those might be even wrose than the newcomers, at least the newcomers pay attention to the climber. And ofcourse i have those who are really great belayers, but i can't always have my pick..
Beginning every climbing session with some falls on the first routes. This also is a good way to set your mind up for climbing fast :)
I have done the drills in the video twice now, has made such a difference, I actually love when my belayer says fall, that drill is amazing. Feels like falling is becoming fun now instead of terrifying! thanks so much! x
i love to fall/fly in overhangs.. but not so keen on falling on slabs or walls full of ledges :D
I don't know many who like to fall on Slabs :DDD
Agreed on the ledges. That’s why I’m usually more scared on easy routes on real rock because they often have parts above ledges where you really shouldn’t fall (though it’s often actually less dangerous than it looks/feels). Falling on slabs is surprisingly fine, of course the more vertical the better.
Yup, exactly what I wanted to comment about. I remember, without any fall training, going dynamically for the last hold and taking a 3-4m fall, no problem. Except it was vertical/slightly overhanging. Then I fell twice on slabs and both times ended kicking the wall :sob:
It's usually not as bad as your mind pictures it will be. It's worth taking practice falls on slabs aswell as other angles.
as a beginner i tried this and i helped so much. i was "mentally" stuck at 6+ and right away the same day we did the training i almost made a 7. thanks for that!
Thank you so much for this video! I have been climbing for years but never let myself try as hard as I should on lead as I WONT FALL. But 1 session of working through these techniques, I can now try hard and happily fall on lead, instantly increased by lead grade by 2! 3 falls in, I actually enjoyed them! Thank you so so much!!!
I love the final tip of "grabbing a friend and don't waste money"!
hope you didn't stop the video at that moment? :D
@@HardIsEasy ahah not at all, I'm actually watching the others right now :) cool videos !
Haha I was just making a joke pointing to the point I said that was riiight after the one you cited ;) Anyway thanks for cool eyes watching cool vids ;)
Great tutorial. Although regularly fall training I got new ideas to try out.
One more simple advice. Breath out while falling. It helps to stay relaxed and observe instead of getting a shock.
Thank you so much for all your videos about falling! I was so afraid of falling but after your!!! videos (I watched a lot on youtube about this topic :D) and just two climbing session with your exercises I was able to committ a move above the clip, I fall and it was totally okay!!! Just angry that I didn' t managed the move.
One of my favorit climbing channels :)!
Wooo yeaaa ;) I love reading comments like this ;) Thanks
Very good video as always. I consider myself as an exeprienced climber since i'm practicing on rocks since my young age and had many very good and experienced teachers. But i still learn so much small usefull tips in ur videos, and good explanations of their points. It's very rare. Don't stop ! And thank you for making this growing community a safer place !
Wish I had this video years ago! Awsome stuff thanks!!
well maybe you can share with someone in need ;) Thank you as well ;)
Yeeaah, waiting is over! This episode is awesome! I watched all your videos while i started lead climbing and it helped me a lot to NOT develop fear of falling. Hannah taught me climbing in Lead-mode and we already did some touch and gos on our first session.
Keep going with this channel, its awesome! Thank you very much!
Sometimes I question if spending time on these videos makes sense... But comments like yours really puts my perspective and focus on where it should be to make this work ;)
Thank You!
🥰🥰🥰
This is amazing. It’s exactly how we teach our fear of falling course and this is a great resource to review later for our course participants
I was looking for so long for a resource that addresses fear of falling while clipping, since that is my biggest fear... Thank you so much for this video.
Get comfortable taking falls where your qd is at your waist level (best clipping position).
Then If you take the rope for clipping that adds only very small amount of extra rope...
Don't forget to let the rope go when you fall ;)
@@HardIsEasy Just letting you know that your approach works and during last 2 weeks of practicing your systematic approach, fear of falling doesn't stop me that much anymore. Regarding clipping we modified the approach a bit: we started from falling while clipping imaginary clip close to previous one and gradually increased the distance. Currently falling is a significant part of my lead-warm up routine. Thank you so much!
@@nphardness that is very nice approach to clipping falling ;)
You are getting close soon you won't think about falling anymore ;) start projecting harder climbs ;)
This series was such a joy to watch! Thank you Ben for this amazing content, keep up on making the world of climbing a better place 😄
thank you so much, I have never wanted to even do top rope before this because I was so scared of falling, but after doing this for a couple day's I'm actually excited to do top rope over bouldering
ありがとうございます！
Thank you so much for all of your videos
I just started climbing it’s such a fun and challenging sport.you and your friends are amazing for making these to help others
Your just an awesome person. Thanks for the great videos
Great video, I had terrible problems with fear committing to moves even on easy grades on lead until I did fall practice (similar to this but nowhere near as varied) and most lead sessions now I start with a few falls just to get going and the difference is massive. The additional part that I hadn't considered was the practice for the belayer, I am very picky about who I will do lead climbing with but running drills like this helps the climber and the belayer develop their skills. The first clip fear is still there but outdoors I use a clipstick just in case :)
Love these videos keep them coming
I'll try - "oooh viiiideooos please keeeeep cooomiiing.... "
New subscriber!
By far the best video on learning to face fear on the wall! So useful!
Thanks for the time you put into these!
thank you so much, Ben 💪
this series helped me so much, not to just advance in climbing, but freely enjoy what I do🎉
Definitely something I'd like to work on again. Slowly regaining my courage after the lockdown.
These videos help me a LOT! THANK YOU!!!
Enjoy ;) If you haven't seen yet there is a full playlist of Fear of Falling ;)
Thank you for your videos! It helps a lot who is starting climb
Exactly the video a need to see! Thanx a lot!
Yey, Happy ;)
the most beautiful video about mind training
Omg you are awesome.I want to practice all of them.Kisses from Greece!
I'm super afraid of lead falls, I'll try this in one of my next sessions. Especially, the touch and fall techniques and their variations seem like a really good way to trick my mind. I think it will feel like an unintentional fall. Moreover, your full brain is not occupied with falling, but partly on doing that move, intentionally failing and falling. Amazing trick! I will try to give an update here if it worked for me
Thanks for your videos!, Iwatched them while having Corona, and they really helped me with my fear of falling!
Ben! Amazing video! my favourite 👌
Uuu, smagu, kad patiko ;) Linkejimai is Ispanijos ;)
Thank you thank you thank you, great content.
Keep climbing, keep falling
Thanks Chris!
And again: great job 🌸 and great catches ;)
And you, Great: "I'm not afraid to fall in gym" ;)
Thank you for this amazing video, I will try all your precious advice to no longer overcome my fear of falling
Brilliant! All your videos are master pieces... 😍😍
Wow, thank you buddy!
I freak out everytime there's a chance I fall
I will try it ! Thank you !
good, you have the smallest baby steps you can take ;) I'm curious how it goes for you ;)
Hanna is fall in love with You :) congratulations! :)
Nice material :)
Thank you for this tips ! :) I could try this for our training with my belayer
Great video! I trained a lot of straight falls, even high ones, but the idea of practicing falls from beside the route is new to me. So let's start :) ...
Thank you!
If you are comfy at taking big falls already, just project hard routes that will expose you to lots of different weird falls ;)
But fall practice could be great on warm ups ;)
I'm in the too scared to clip when I'm tired camp.
I think this will really help me.
Although, at our local gym, if you skip the first clip like you guys were doing they'll run out and beat you with sticks.
I'm gonna try this on my next trenings! Sometimes I get so terrified of the falling that I am not able to reach the top of the wall. Now I know what to do for the next few sessions:D thanks!!!!!!!
This video was GREAT. Tons of excellent advice. Thank you!
Very very nice video. The only thing I would add to it is the use of helmets, people are having very nasty falls lately. I recommend it very much.
Good video ;)
I'm secretly trying to put a helmet on Hannas head for a while now ;) still in progress ;)
@@HardIsEasy XDDDD
09:00 The fall on command is something that hleped me massively, I had a big need for an incentive to fall on routes I could do (wasn't confident enough in my falling to do harder than a 5C)
Oh I needed this! I haven't been able to boulder for over a year because I had two panic attacks on the wall where I just could not make myself let go. I still love top ropes though! So maybe intentionally falling will help with that. Thank you for putting this together!
Part of my bouldering sessions always involves falling on purpose a few times early on so my body stops freaking out over it. It’s helped a lot. There were some climbs I couldn’t make because the height scared me but now I can go for them a lot easier.
Another great video, man! I have a couple of climbing partners who are still afraid to fall, will definitely incorporate some of these tips into our next sessions!
Yea great for warm ups ;)
@@HardIsEasy Did pretty much a whole session. Gets to be really hard work pulling back up that rope again and again!
@@iain_nakada haha don't pull ;) climb ;) jugs are easier than pulling on your rope...and no need for your belayer to suffer on this ;)
@@HardIsEasy Wasn't the easiest route to reclimb (no really easy steep routes at my local crag). But yeah, on balance might have been a good idea. Worked up to some monster falls anyway. :D
Great video, very interresting to see those technics
9:40 Bro, this moment was so funny 😂Oh and thanks for this amazing advice. Just got my toprope license so have to practise a lot and decrease the fear 😬
Nice and interesting Video my friend 👌 Keep the good work going on 👌👍👍
Now I know what to do next time in climbing hall 💪🧗♂️🙏
This looks like so much fun, good workout for the body and mind!
Congrats guys, You've made an excellent video!
Thank you so much Alessandro!
Fantastic!
I gotta make my friends and I do this !
Share later with us how it went ;)
Hanna is a heroine :)
Well good, more doses are coming for you soon ;)
🙈🙈
Awsome!! Thanks for sharing. I will try it.🤩
Thank u for the video.
jeez my hands are sweating just watching this. But it's all damn good advice, thanks. I need to practice falling again
Thank you!
wow. super useful video. Thank you !!!!!
My big joy ;)
Great video, thank you for your work 🤗
Thank you ❤️
@@HardIsEasy I'm just coming back from my first climbing trip and your videos helped me a lot!
Aaahhhh first climbing trips :D hard to forget those ;)
Gracias por el vídeo. Muy interesante y útil 🙏
Amazing content
That was very Good!
Im so scared that i hold onto everything like a tic😂🦟 but that wont be possible in harder routes and all soo i really have to get rid of it, i freeze and just hold as much as i can, i deny the fall so much, but it have to come one day🙈 once i had a swing on a top rope and it wasnt even that terrible actually i had so much joy just hanging there but still scared to fall or just let go, but this vid is really helpful and giving me confidence to try some falls😊 thank you❤️
Thanks dude ❤
Oh man. I really need to do this with my friends. We are all afraid of falling.
Great video…. Very very very useful, Thank you !!
Just discovered that the core of my rope got too worn out in one spot.... Before you do this fall training, make sure to check your rope thoroughly.
You should keep an eye on the ends of the rope from time to time, it's normal that they get worned out and you need to cut them.
And then having a full check of the rope is also not a bad idea at some point - especially if your rope got stuck somewhere or you had some crazy repel over sharp edges
@@HardIsEasy Perhaps you can make a video on proper way of cutting the worn out ends of the rope as well on rope checking and maintenance?
@@ArinaThomsen on my list already... Have a plan for a big big course on everything you need to know about belaying and sport climbing
Many gyms have rope cutting hot wires and will probably help you
thank you thank you thank you!! I'm off to train this with my friend right now! See you later!(i hope 😉 😆)
I cant even climb but your videos are great. wish i could be climbing some day :D
Now I only need to learn to trust the gear. Here in northern Germany the outdoor routes are mostly mixed trad
Yea this video is obviously not for Trad :DDD sorry ;)
@@HardIsEasy Doesn't matter, I love this video series. In my opinion the fall test really help me for lead climbing. Only on parts with my own placed gear I struggle a lot to climb higher when I have the feeling to not be able to control the situation and hold on to the wall.
thank you!!!
Thank you
very good video, thank you
This is great thank you! Before my first time rock climbing outdoor, I asked my friends to help me deal with my fear and I fell on purpose just above a quickdraw. Not sure what my belayer did but I slammed my feet against the wall, it was awful 😭
Ahhh sorry to hear about that slam... It's common mistake of inexperienced belayers...
I have an old vid on soft catch... But I'm also going to make new content on belaying so you can force your climbing partners to watch ;)
@@HardIsEasy Thanks! Will keep watching!
my hands sweat this whole video!
I need this so much, i'm always terrified. The problem is finding the right belayer for these drills 😂
ahahahah hannah banana is awesome
Yep, my hands are sweating like crazy just watching this. Gonna try it with my belayer as soon as possible!
Very nice videos, thankyou. But there's something bugging me: at 3:20 you're not spotting, and after, she's also skipping the first bolt. Care to explain? I guess the bolt skipping is to avoid hitting it when you get pulled up... But maybe putting a disclaimer or something, since it's often considered bad ti skip the first two bolts...
You have a good eye ;) and you are right I should have explained that skip of the bolt...
Actually it's to make belaying easier... You can see that in some falls I jump as high as the first bolt... So I don't want my grigri stuck in the first quickdraw and also It's much more comfortable if the rope goes a bit more up than towards the wall. (Highly recommended if belayer is light)
.
And not spotting goes with evaluating the risks... She's climbing Jugs, there is no chance that she will fall there - but definitely spot if there is any risk involved.
I watched this video Ben!! Comment for prooooofffs
waiting for the message saying - I did it :D here is the proof :D
My first big fall was about 35 feet while learning some rappelling, both people lost hold of the break rope 😅 my second big fall was on a top route where the rope got tangled in the anchor and the belayer couldnt pull in slack and I realized it a bit late haha, neither fall really scared me, the second hurt some because I got caught up in the rope some. But lead falls dont really bother me as much haha
Thanks a lot for this great content. I have been trying to find how to fall on a 6b slabby wall, I mean when youre hanging I can see. But I mean when there is rock that you can touch falling, thats where I dont know how to fall or how to overcome the fear of hitting yourself. Thanks 🙏
Ana banana!!!!
Huhuuuu :)
Ben, Thank you so very much for all of your videos. Sharing your knowledge and experience is priceless. I'm past the age of rock climbing and I am starting to rappel, in your opinion is it safe to practice short falls from a very low height by yourself if you anchor the standing end to a very secure anchor? Again, thanks so much Ben for all you do to help us become better climbers.
If I had a dollar for every time we went to the gym saying "today we practise lead falls" i'd be able to pay for more bolts on outside climbs ^^
What is the knot you are using? (8:20) Looks so easy to untie!
Double bowline :)
Cool video, awesome series!!
Those falls looked very soft and pleasant. I’m curious, Hannah is probably lighter than you? How much?
Also, “fancy belaying” is fancy ;) you tried to very quickly take in the excess slack that was out for clipping and immediately after catch dynamically? To reduce the time of free falling without breaking effect?
Yea, take out extra slack but give a soft catch... You need good reaction to do this ;) If you just take you break ankles of your climber....
and don't try with anything else than grigri, because the moment your break hand is up is dangerous with most belay devices...
Also in the fall I did it it's not necessary... I was just practicing...
If the fall were lower that would be a safest belay...
I don’t know Bens weight, but mine is around 56 kilo :)
@@hannathone8637 unfortunately I don't know my weight as well :))
Thanks guys! :) keep crushing!
Muito bom o vídeo, ajudou bastante :)
Thanks for the video! These are some really great exercises, and I may just have to try 'em out! :) Also, interesting that she's climbing with a.. retrace bowline? Hmmm!
Double bowline. Very Common in Germany "doppelter bulin"
Cool Video! Good to see some stuff of you again.
The thing with my fear of falling is that i am afraid to fall in the lower parts, especially while clipping... Any tips for that? :(
If you are not comfy clipping first (or two) bolt - stick clip it ;) or if it's in the gym use better holds around to preclip.
You can practice falling low as you've seen in the video but start from very small falls when you clipped above for your belayer to get a sense of how to catch such fall...
@@HardIsEasy Oh jeah, some stuff i preclip now when i know there is a good chance of falling when trying something hard but i still have a sooo bad feeling even on routes where i usually should not have a problem, especially slabs'n'stuff :/
Keep climbing, the more confident you will get at your climbing skills the less scary it's gonna be to take some "Free Solo" moments :D
Till then make your self safe by preclips etc - no shame ;)
Thanks for the series ! Very motivational. Most of my climbing is on slabby routes. Any advice on how to fall and belay for less than vertical terrain? I was always told "well, don't fall in such cases!"
Nice progression, thanks! How to schedule all those falls - How many falls per session, or full sessions dedicated to just falling?
Falling drains quite a lot of mental energy (at least in the beginning), that one also needs for (bold) lead climbing. Right now I can do just about 5 falls, then I need to switch to climbing. Slow process this way...
Once you’ve reached a certain level of fearlessness I’d incorporate it into the warmup. Usually we do 5 warmup routes or so and just don’t clip the top carabiner.
@@Mike-oz4cv Yep I know - I used to do clip and drop for one route 5th bolt to top. But I need to re-build that un-fear. After Corona, it's taking looonger this time, and I want to get back quickly.
Depends on your level... I wouldn't try to count falls tho... You can put it into your warm up or do as a separate training... If you are not very strong don't do that after climbing or you might get nervous to reach next clip...
I only do them if I haven't taken a fall in a while... e.g. in the beginning of climbing trip... Or I notice that I'm nervous during climbing...
And the cool thing is that once you get over that fear if you don't take falls in a while fear comes back, but it's much easier to deal with it next time ;)
P.s. thanks for not falling on fake dramas months ago ;)
@@HardIsEasy Interestingly it's harder for me now, than it was first time. How many sessions did you do with Hanna for this video?
PS: Funny that you noticed ;)
@@leoingson it was filmed in one session... Pretty much all the fall you see is all we did, buuut she was already very comfortable falling indoors and it was more to just show the steps... And find some ways to challenge her a bit ;)
So take as much time as YOU need... Use the steps you've seen but don't move to crazy shit before you are really comfy.
Also projecting harder routes is great as you've seen in previous videos ;)
P.s. yea since I was the one responding to all the comments for years - I remember ppl like you ;)
Great video, can't wait to put it into practice! Curious how many of those falls a rope can take...some people say 5 and then it always gives me the fear!?
Thanks! About your questions, I have answered it in detail in my Belay Masterclass Ep.5 on Ropes
Wow!!! Love this method! Surely going training within it! Should i use a new rope or a middle used one?...I mean...I wouldn't like to fall so many many times on a new rope just to training falls...but...a middle used rope could be as safe as a new one to this aim??? Thank you so much if you like to answer my qstn.!
P.S.
Great....really great Videos! Like thm really!!
@7:53 what is that knot? Normally when tying a figure 8 the top section is done first, so it's not like she has just undone it. Also, it's too loose. This looks like some weird bowline type thing.
It is a bowline ;)
@@HardIsEasy thanks - an unusual choice, a good knot but you have to know what you are doing, mistakes can be fatal apparently.
Hehe it’s actually a double bowline 😊 and yes I can tie that knot while I’m sleeping ;)
Great video! As the climber what is the best way to fall? Hold the rope or not? Try to land with both feet square to the wall? Any other tips? Thank you!
Soft as a cat absorbing impact with all your limbs ;) Ideally no grabbing the rope, only if you actually need to reposition your self in space...
And thank you, you question goes to the list of videos to make ;)
I Go into what call goalkeeper Position. Knees Bend and ready to Catch the Fall with feet and hands