Not surprising that there wasn't liquid water in the tank. BTW- some user, as do I, recommend cutting the extension tube from the valve. As you stated, the purpose of the tube is to prevent water from entering the breathing apparatus. When used for air guns, the tube prevents any liquid water from being blown out of the tank, thus trapping any liquid until hydro or inspection. It's also worthwhile to note that there will be virtually zero water vapor present in high pressure air. When air is compressed, water vapor condenses and precipitates out, gathering in the lowest area or the device. Cotton filters, water traps, and such simple devices are effective in trapping liquid water, unless a saturated filter or overflow water trap and high air flow speed blows the water forward. Having tested water content in my air over several years, I sometimes use an inlet desiccant filter, but usually don't bother because my compressed air humidity is below 50% with or without. A standard technician's humidity meter works well by venting compressor or tank air, slowly into a plastic bag. The meter inside the bag, at atmospheric pressure, measures the humidity while the air passes through the bag. Try with various filters and dryers to see if your results differ. I'll be that they agree. Thank-you for your excellent and professional information.
Man i think it really dosen't look bad at all for 5 years use, the line that looks like a scratch could have been there all along, great video as always !
The aluminum liner is not very thick and doesn't really hold much pressure by itself. The carbon fiber wrapping is what holds all of the pressure and as long as it hasn't been slammed into something to cause a delimination there's no danger.
Extended 15 year service isn’t economically sensible. It’s a several hundred dollar test. That several hundred dollar test has to be done every 5 years after the initial life extension. A regular hydro test doesn’t apply after the life extension.
I work with aluminum and to me the inside exhibits aluminum corrosion which is similar to rust in that it goes deeper than it would appear . The scratch actually resembles a stress crack to my eye because it has a lot of detail with small turns , like a crack would have vs a straighter line surface scratch . Excellent video ! Glad you decided to retire it
Another fantastic and informative video! As long as I use my big moisture filter I have never felt any sort of moisture when bleeding the tank/hose when filling the gun or tank. your YH videos are simply outstanding!!! Thank you so much!
Update after viewing several Yong Heng videos on both PCP and diving, the best way to run it is to use this setup: Compressor w/ Seccolube 500 or equivalent > oil/water separator (w/a drain) > molecular sieve > PMV (pressure maintaining valve @ 2k allows filters to reach appropriate pressure to reduce moisture, also acts as a one way valve) > pressure release valve > tank.
Not just the Yong Heng but very good filter prior to entering the bottle. If it was the cotton filters that comes stock, I can assure there would be water in the tank,
Most likely you are seeing mineral deposits from the previous hydro. Some of the wall marks are from the die that formed the aluminum portion. Tank looks pretty good.
I think I have one of the same tanks from Phoenix Fire Department that was unused 7-8 years ago. I was filling it with my Shoebox compressor and high pressure filters were just kinda getting started. I quit filling my tank due to moisture concerns about 6-8 months after I got it. I'm sure mine has corrosion in the aluminum inside. Mines been sitting at 3000 PSI for years now. They say these tanks really are good for 30 years as long as their not damaged and beat up, but the corrosion I'm sure that's in mine also worries me way more than the date. After seeing yours inside I think mine will be retired also. I have a GX CS4 coming and will just fill my PCP's directly. Those filters are kinda scary too with 4500 PSI on them so i never bought one.
That’s how mine is after 4 years and every gun I’ve taken apart has been clean also. I use a three section filter and another filter of just activated charcoal.
Tank looks pretty normal for aluminum that appears to no be treated in anyway(anti-corrosion). That being said, I wonder if it would have had the same effect if you would have used the oil/ water separator w/ a molecular sieve.
That’s incredible. 😮 I’ve gotta say that the Yong Heng just keeps on looking like better and better value. Although, if they keep on climbing in price, here in the UK, they’ll soon be at the price of a mainstream brand.
Hmmm? Well a YH is still only $359.00 here in the states for the nicer one. Cheaper one is $299.00. I looked at the Hill EC-3000 and it's $1500.00 - $1800.00. The Omega can go for $1900.00 - $2300.00. So yeah , quite a difference!
I've used the same / original Yong Heng compressor for about the same time span to fill rifle cylinders, rifle tanks, as well as 3 SCBA tanks: 1 metal and 2 carbon fiber.. No crazy / gimmicky filtrations, just simple common sense applied, and Zero water in any of them either! [Random Thought] The industry that I'm in - I end up with all sorts of extra Silica-Packs kicking around, so I started throwing them into a large ziploc bag, figuring that eventually they'd have a use.. Now I'm starting to think.. Why not just drop one of the larger [shake-hand-warmer-sized-versions] directly into a tank - For those that may experience moisture issues in theirs.. Obviously, it's from friction/heat/etc. but the packet[s] should definitely do 'something'... [/RandomThought] 😁 Sam -
I think unlike reputable SCUBA dive shops which should always be filling one's scuba tanks with perfectly dry air; many may not (because it cost money to maintain the compressors). if one fills their PCP bottles from home compressors they may not be providing the sufficiently dry air required to be inside of these tanks and over time corrosion might start to occur. Oil could also be a big problem too from a safety aspect. I'm not sure if that was a "fracture" plus I doubt it actually as this would simply rip through the Al at full pressure. More likely some mark from manufacturing, however these certainly does appear to be some basic corrosion setting in. As you stated the bottle has been heavily used and the lifespan of all of these things (real SCUBA tanks included-I mean for diving -i'm a diver) one may not get the manufacturer's listed lifetime because of excessive use or ingression over time of moisture, failure to hydro test on a regular basis etc. I think for sure dry air is a must, especially if one has their tank sitting around for ages and the air isn't exchanged a lot. Great video, just found your channel and have subbed!
I haven't been using any water filtration except what came on the fill whip with my Yong Heng and the included cotton filters. Wonder what the inside of my gun looks like?!?!?!??!!
"soo sou soov Memento" (Cracked me up. That edit was a VERY FUNNY- closing thought) Now on to the serious--- Steve, Are you claiming that carbon fiber tank, for the past 5 years, was filled with a Yong Heng compressor----- and you had NO FAILURES? My experience has been different. While the Yong Heng is fine for short 2 minute fills of a rifle, an upwards to 60 minute fill of a 6.8L or 9L tank (even cooled with ice water and moderated with 10 minute rest periods) is a way different story! Even with careful maintenance and observation, I found the Young Heng (with lengthy periods of use) often blows air leaks and fails. I was constantly wrenching and patching up leaks. I've now got 2 Yong Hengs sitting in a closet (that's $600+ DOLLARS!) BOTTOM LINE: The economics aren't sensible. I advise new Air Gunners, forget the chinese home compressors; if you're going to do a lot of shooting, "INVEST" In a good large tank (6.8L to 9L) and get it filled periodically at a Scuba Shop or Paintball Gun Shop. For a mere $10 to $15 a fill (One trip to the scuba shop equates to 40 plus rifle fills). Reply
Add a molecular sieve after the toauto moisture filter to get rid of the left over oil/moisture. The pitting in your tank looks like it’s from when you previously used hydraulic fluid as a lubricant. I’m not saying yong heng is bad. I just would not trust my life with half this stuff. I went with a name brand dive compressor. I sent my air Venturi tank off to be re-hydro tested and inspected because when I drained the air and looked in the tank it looked like there was compressor oil in there. I’m not trying to scare anyone off or deter anyone from using a yong heng. I just won’t use one myself anymore.
Irmão tenho um compressor pcp tuxing txes031 estilo.o yong hang ele passa oleo para o filtro e normal isso ? Pensei que não.passaria nada o filtro fica úmido com oleo cada 5 ou 6 recargas de 450cc 200bar tenho que trocar o filtro pois suja de oleo
I purchase the same tank in Ebay it was new but old stock and I don't like the fact that they count the life of the tank the year it was born and not the first time it was tested.
Have you ever removed the crankcase from the motor? I have to do that and do not know how many pieces the crankshaft has before it comes out of the crankcase.
I'm interested in this compressor but for lower volumes of air. Probably 2200 psi max. How long does it take to fill a tank like that? How long would it take at 1800-2200 psi? Does pressure make a huge difference in its speed?
@ Air Velocity Sport: i need your help. amazon is longer making it easy to correspond with them, or get help for defective items. i am new to (air projectile) launchers, and watched you youtube for about 3 months. after watching your vids, i purchased you, per your recommendation i bought the (30Mpa High Pressure Air Filter External Water Oil Separator Filtration). Which i think is good, but when i installed it, the first stage pressure relief valve does not close (even when tightened). Any help you can give will be appreciated.
I got one of them compressors just coming in tomorrow I wore my hand pump out you know I've been pumping for about 4 months or something we're a pump out completely but I'm in better shape for reals but I'm ready to get a compressor and quit pumping on this thing but I'm kind of scared LOL
Too bad you don't have a new tank to compare the inner surface with. That somewhat rough surface at the bottom could be how it looked when fresh off the manufacturing line, but those salt crystals might offer a clue that something is slowly eating aluminum to cause the pitting. If the tank was tested the same way scuba tanks are tested, were you given the option of cleaning the inside with tumbling media? Again, it would be nice to compare with a new tank, as I expect they are manufactured using a similar process as steel tanks are. This YT video will show how they are formed if YT does not block it: ruclips.net/video/jmUIlh2S5QQ/видео.html
I recently bought 2- 9 liter tanks and 3 of the tuxing .7ci carbon fiber bottles, and a bunch of other new carbon fiber bottles and even aluminum bottles. Some of the new bottle liners are absolutely FILTHY, so I've now been searching youtube for 4 DAMN HOURS to learn how to clean out the inside of PCP hoa bottles that are dirty... I can't find 1 single video explaining, instructions, how-to... NOTHING on how to properly clean out the inside of these bottles. I don't know if you just use dish soap and distilled water and then throughly air dry? Or are you supposed to use isopropyl alcohol? Or just water? I have no clue... and I do not want to put on my brand new pcp ninja 3000 psi regulators on new bottles that are ABSOLUTELY filthy inside! I can't believe there isn't 1 single video on how tocclean out new/empty dirty bottles!! Lol
Not surprising that there wasn't liquid water in the tank.
BTW- some user, as do I, recommend cutting the extension tube from the valve. As you stated, the purpose of the tube is to prevent water from entering the breathing apparatus.
When used for air guns, the tube prevents any liquid water from being blown out of the tank, thus trapping any liquid until hydro or inspection.
It's also worthwhile to note that there will be virtually zero water vapor present in high pressure air. When air is compressed, water vapor condenses and precipitates out, gathering in the lowest area or the device. Cotton filters, water traps, and such simple devices are effective in trapping liquid water, unless a saturated filter or overflow water trap and high air flow speed blows the water forward.
Having tested water content in my air over several years, I sometimes use an inlet desiccant filter, but usually don't bother because my compressed air humidity is below 50% with or without. A standard technician's humidity meter works well by venting compressor or tank air, slowly into a plastic bag. The meter inside the bag, at atmospheric pressure, measures the humidity while the air passes through the bag.
Try with various filters and dryers to see if your results differ. I'll be that they agree.
Thank-you for your excellent and professional information.
I've been using the same compressor setup as you for years doing direct fills and it's been excellent.
Man i think it really dosen't look bad at all for 5 years use, the line that looks like a scratch could have been there all along, great video as always !
Don E or it might be a brand new hairline fracture that could explode the next fill
The aluminum liner is not very thick and doesn't really hold much pressure by itself. The carbon fiber wrapping is what holds all of the pressure and as long as it hasn't been slammed into something to cause a delimination there's no danger.
@@warrenthomas1253 hopefully when my head is right next to it
@@schlomoshekelstein908 here's hoping you get your wish
I’m not surprised at all , you use better water stoppers than I do and I haven’t had any water in my tank after filling with the Yong Heng.
Extended 15 year service isn’t economically sensible. It’s a several hundred dollar test. That several hundred dollar test has to be done every 5 years after the initial life extension. A regular hydro test doesn’t apply after the life extension.
I work with aluminum and to me the inside exhibits aluminum corrosion which is similar to rust in that it goes deeper than it would appear .
The scratch actually resembles a stress crack to my eye because it has a lot of detail with small turns , like a crack would have vs a straighter line surface scratch .
Excellent video !
Glad you decided to retire it
lol bullshit
@@schlomoshekelstein908 lol dipshit
Another fantastic and informative video! As long as I use my big moisture filter I have never felt any sort of moisture when bleeding the tank/hose when filling the gun or tank. your YH videos are simply outstanding!!! Thank you so much!
Update after viewing several Yong Heng videos on both PCP and diving, the best way to run it is to use this setup: Compressor w/ Seccolube 500 or equivalent > oil/water separator (w/a drain) > molecular sieve > PMV (pressure maintaining valve @ 2k allows filters to reach appropriate pressure to reduce moisture, also acts as a one way valve) > pressure release valve > tank.
Very, very interesting, and well done to you for keeping the water out by the correct filtration.
Not just the Yong Heng but very good filter prior to entering the bottle. If it was the cotton filters that comes stock, I can assure there would be water in the tank,
Keep it as a “paper weight”.
This surprised me. I’m delighted there was no water in the tank. I would have bet there was.
It would be interesting to see the inside of a brand new tank to contrast with your end-of-life tank. Maybe they're all rough in the inside?
I think it would be also interesting open this bottle up by the end of its life....a very clear picture from its inside would be revealing...😉
I was also sure there would be wadder in your tank ... great video !!
Let us know what the results are after you have it hydro tested! Thanks for the video. Keep it up!!
Hell yes! I've been waiting for a video like this!
Thank you Stephen, very enlightening.
Most likely you are seeing mineral deposits from the previous hydro. Some of the wall marks are from the die that formed the aluminum portion. Tank looks pretty good.
I think I have one of the same tanks from Phoenix Fire Department that was unused 7-8 years ago. I was filling it with my Shoebox compressor and high pressure filters were just kinda getting started. I quit filling my tank due to moisture concerns about 6-8 months after I got it. I'm sure mine has corrosion in the aluminum inside. Mines been sitting at 3000 PSI for years now. They say these tanks really are good for 30 years as long as their not damaged and beat up, but the corrosion I'm sure that's in mine also worries me way more than the date. After seeing yours inside I think mine will be retired also. I have a GX CS4 coming and will just fill my PCP's directly. Those filters are kinda scary too with 4500 PSI on them so i never bought one.
That’s how mine is after 4 years and every gun I’ve taken apart has been clean also. I use a three section filter and another filter of just activated charcoal.
Impressive results!
Tank looks pretty normal for aluminum that appears to no be treated in anyway(anti-corrosion). That being said, I wonder if it would have had the same effect if you would have used the oil/ water separator w/ a molecular sieve.
Awesome video and info thanks Steve 😊 👍
That’s incredible. 😮
I’ve gotta say that the Yong Heng just keeps on looking like better and better value.
Although, if they keep on climbing in price, here in the UK, they’ll soon be at the price of a mainstream brand.
Hmmm? Well a YH is still only $359.00 here in the states for the nicer one. Cheaper one is $299.00. I looked at the Hill EC-3000 and it's $1500.00 - $1800.00. The Omega can go for $1900.00 - $2300.00. So yeah , quite a difference!
I've used the same / original Yong Heng compressor for about the same time span
to fill rifle cylinders, rifle tanks, as well as 3 SCBA tanks: 1 metal and 2 carbon fiber..
No crazy / gimmicky filtrations, just simple common sense applied, and Zero water in any of them either!
[Random Thought] The industry that I'm in - I end up with all sorts of extra Silica-Packs kicking around,
so I started throwing them into a large ziploc bag, figuring that eventually they'd have a use..
Now I'm starting to think.. Why not just drop one of the larger [shake-hand-warmer-sized-versions]
directly into a tank - For those that may experience moisture issues in theirs..
Obviously, it's from friction/heat/etc. but the packet[s] should definitely do 'something'...
[/RandomThought] 😁
Sam -
Soo-ven-ear. Lol! Thanks for sharing this.
I think unlike reputable SCUBA dive shops which should always be filling one's scuba tanks with perfectly dry air; many may not (because it cost money to maintain the compressors). if one fills their PCP bottles from home compressors they may not be providing the sufficiently dry air required to be inside of these tanks and over time corrosion might start to occur. Oil could also be a big problem too from a safety aspect. I'm not sure if that was a "fracture" plus I doubt it actually as this would simply rip through the Al at full pressure. More likely some mark from manufacturing, however these certainly does appear to be some basic corrosion setting in. As you stated the bottle has been heavily used and the lifespan of all of these things (real SCUBA tanks included-I mean for diving -i'm a diver) one may not get the manufacturer's listed lifetime because of excessive use or ingression over time of moisture, failure to hydro test on a regular basis etc. I think for sure dry air is a must, especially if one has their tank sitting around for ages and the air isn't exchanged a lot. Great video, just found your channel and have subbed!
I haven't been using any water filtration except what came on the fill whip with my Yong Heng and the included cotton filters. Wonder what the inside of my gun looks like?!?!?!??!!
Great info. 👍
"soo sou soov Memento" (Cracked me up. That edit was a VERY FUNNY- closing thought) Now on to the serious---
Steve, Are you claiming that carbon fiber tank, for the past 5 years, was filled with a Yong Heng compressor----- and you had NO FAILURES?
My experience has been different. While the Yong Heng is fine for short 2 minute fills of a rifle, an upwards to 60 minute fill of a 6.8L or 9L tank (even cooled with ice water and moderated with 10 minute rest periods) is a way different story!
Even with careful maintenance and observation, I found the Young Heng (with lengthy periods of use) often blows air leaks and fails. I was constantly wrenching and patching up leaks. I've now got 2 Yong Hengs sitting in a closet (that's $600+ DOLLARS!) BOTTOM LINE: The economics aren't sensible.
I advise new Air Gunners, forget the chinese home compressors; if you're going to do a lot of shooting, "INVEST" In a good large tank (6.8L to 9L) and get it filled periodically at a Scuba Shop or Paintball Gun Shop. For a mere $10 to $15 a fill (One trip to the scuba shop equates to 40 plus rifle fills).
Reply
What filters are you using now?
Can you support me with a link?
Thanks :)
Wow! no unnecessary steps taken here..
I have food grade compressor oil and like five feet of filters designed for scuba. I filled two scuba tanks recently and observed no water at all.
Add a molecular sieve after the toauto moisture filter to get rid of the left over oil/moisture. The pitting in your tank looks like it’s from when you previously used hydraulic fluid as a lubricant. I’m not saying yong heng is bad. I just would not trust my life with half this stuff. I went with a name brand dive compressor. I sent my air Venturi tank off to be re-hydro tested and inspected because when I drained the air and looked in the tank it looked like there was compressor oil in there.
I’m not trying to scare anyone off or deter anyone from using a yong heng. I just won’t use one myself anymore.
Irmão tenho um compressor pcp tuxing txes031 estilo.o yong hang ele passa oleo para o filtro e normal isso ? Pensei que não.passaria nada o filtro fica úmido com oleo cada 5 ou 6 recargas de 450cc 200bar tenho que trocar o filtro pois suja de oleo
Normal.nao precisa trocar o filtro por isso.
good video thank you
Yep, that was a fracture or crack pictured in the tank. Also, look like a bit of corrosion to me. Wise about retiring it...
I purchase the same tank in Ebay it was new but old stock and I don't like the fact that they count the life of the tank the year it was born and not the first time it was tested.
There is a crack in the alluminium at 7:20-7:23 look at top screen not in mirror it is in focus half a sec. GL
DUDE..............😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁 really enjoy your vids!
I would cut the bottle since it's life is done and then we can see the crack or scratch for sure!
Don't you think that every time you Hydro test a Carbon fiber tank it reduces the life/usage ?
Have you ever removed the crankcase from the motor? I have to do that and do not know how many pieces the crankshaft has before it comes out of the crankcase.
I'm interested in this compressor but for lower volumes of air. Probably 2200 psi max. How long does it take to fill a tank like that? How long would it take at 1800-2200 psi? Does pressure make a huge difference in its speed?
@ Air Velocity Sport: i need your help. amazon is longer making it easy to correspond with them, or get help for defective items. i am new to (air projectile) launchers, and watched you youtube for about 3 months. after watching your vids, i purchased you, per your recommendation i bought the (30Mpa High Pressure Air Filter External Water Oil Separator Filtration). Which i think is good, but when i installed it, the first stage pressure relief valve does not close (even when tightened). Any help you can give will be appreciated.
I just ordered a yong heng for 400. If I can even get a year I will be happy but I shoot every single day.
How long does it take to fill your tank? do you have to stop between filling and cool the pump?
I got one of them compressors just coming in tomorrow I wore my hand pump out you know I've been pumping for about 4 months or something we're a pump out completely but I'm in better shape for reals but I'm ready to get a compressor and quit pumping on this thing but I'm kind of scared LOL
I've got it's brother from the same source except it's around 6 months younger. Where did you find the end cap protector?
No waters coming out cause it went into all your guns 🤓 lol jk 🤣 thank you for the video!
If you're not going to use it, cut it in half to see it better
Too bad you don't have a new tank to compare the inner surface with. That somewhat rough surface at the bottom could be how it looked when fresh off the manufacturing line, but those salt crystals might offer a clue that something is slowly eating aluminum to cause the pitting. If the tank was tested the same way scuba tanks are tested, were you given the option of cleaning the inside with tumbling media? Again, it would be nice to compare with a new tank, as I expect they are manufactured using a similar process as steel tanks are. This YT video will show how they are formed if YT does not block it: ruclips.net/video/jmUIlh2S5QQ/видео.html
😂😂😂
I recently bought 2- 9 liter tanks and 3 of the tuxing .7ci carbon fiber bottles, and a bunch of other new carbon fiber bottles and even aluminum bottles. Some of the new bottle liners are absolutely FILTHY, so I've now been searching youtube for 4 DAMN HOURS to learn how to clean out the inside of PCP hoa bottles that are dirty... I can't find 1 single video explaining, instructions, how-to... NOTHING on how to properly clean out the inside of these bottles. I don't know if you just use dish soap and distilled water and then throughly air dry? Or are you supposed to use isopropyl alcohol? Or just water? I have no clue... and I do not want to put on my brand new pcp ninja 3000 psi regulators on new bottles that are ABSOLUTELY filthy inside! I can't believe there isn't 1 single video on how tocclean out new/empty dirty bottles!! Lol