Wanted to update you, I’m loving my line pro 40 rear wheel. That with the new bottom bracket and I’m rolling much easier, makes the climbing more bearable 😅 no joke my buddy just the other day suggested I try narrower tires when I need new ones and I open RUclips this morning to find your video!
That’s awesome to hear! The line 40 is such a good wheel! Good to hear that the content is relevant! I just know that at some point, ppl with plus tire bikes will inevitably want to try out narrower tires. I can confidently say it makes a big difference. A good difference in my humble opinion. Thank you again for watching and leaving your comment! We appreciate it! Keep the rubber side down and enjoy the ride my friend!
Hey all, welcome to this weeks video. This video took me longer to produce than most. I wanted to be as thoughtful as possible to give as much info as I could! Hope you enjoy!
I'm going the other way. Moving from 29x2.4" on the back to 27.5x2.8" to try a mullet setup. I'm trying to figure out how the profile will be with a 2.8" tire on an I30 rim. The good news is the blow-out pricing on some leftover 27.5" wheels, lol. I want a big soft rear tire to run low pressures for my bad back. I haven't ordered the tire yet, so I could go with 2.6", but it wouldn't be that much different than my 2.4's. I want to limit BB drop too, so 2.8's might be my move if they aren't overly rounded on an I30.
Hey there and thank you for watching and commenting! Mullets are cool for increasing manoeuvrability and agility. Think of it this way: a 27.5 inch wheel with a 2.8” width is very close to the same size as a 29er. What you’re trying to achieve is a softer ride with the 2.8. A 2.8 on a i30 rim will be quite rounded out. To get the softer ride you’re looking for, I’m assuming you’ll run low pressure. Because of the narrow rim width, the 2.8 will likely squirm . Taking into account the narrow rim width plus the low tire pressure. A 2.6 on an i30 rim 27.5 is a better choice only in my opinion. But setting up a bike as mullet, if the bike is not meant to be mullet then you will drop the bottom bracket by a few mm. I have a new bike and I run 29” wheel front and rear with 2.6” rubber. I am set up tubeless and find I can run 24psi in the rear and get away without rim-dings. The higher the tire volume is (2.8) the lower the pressure you can get away with but on an i30 it may work against you.
@@dirtyforksmtb Hmm, ok. Thanks for the input. Maybe I'll try a 2.6" instead. I was trying not to drop the BB by much. The Pivot Switchblade has a flip chip in it, so it compensates some, but it'll still be dropped a bit. I'm not a very aggressive rider, and I avoid rock gardens and rooty trails for my back's sake. I tried my buddy's hardtail fat tire bike, and liked the soft rolling of it, so I thought I'd try something fatter.
Ah I see. The switchblade with the flip chip for mullet configuration. In that case going mullet is good. In the case of the fat bike, that bike likely had 5” rubber. Those tires can run crazy low pressures. I used to have a fat bike with 4” rubber and I remember running 9 psi front and 11 psi rear. Definitely cushy. You could also think about running that rear 27.5 with a 2.6” tire and a tire insert. Obviously you’d need a tubeless set up when running an insert but the insert will allow you to run even lower pressures as the insert will help protect from pinch flats and rim dingers!! And also, every tire manufacturer is different with regards to “actual width sizing”. I know maxxis runs on the smaller side. Research each brand you’re looking in to and see what their actual sizes are like!
@@dirtyforksmtb Yea, the fat bike I rode had 3.8" tires, but it was like riding on carpet. Good point on the manufacturer tire size variances. I saw someone measured a Maxxis DHR 2.8 and it was 26.62" I think. The DT Swiss tire size/pressure guidelines for a i30mm rim is up to 2.7" width in the "recommended" range, with 2.8" being in the "Doable" range. These tires are expensive, but it wouldn't be the end of the world if I made the wrong choice, lol. Definitely will be running tubeless, probably in the low 20's PSI wise. Not looking for super low fat tire pressures. I'll still have my 29" wheel and 2.4 DHR tire if I want to swap back and forth. Going mullet, I might have to drop my stem another spacer. I got riser bars for it and was wheeling up hills so I had to drop it a little already. It's all fun experimentation though. At some point it'll be dialed in.
Thanks for this video. Several people suggested going down to a 2.6 tire on my basically stock Roscoe 6. It will be awhile yet as my Ronnies are still in good shape. I think the tire you recommended is discontinued. REI has a great sale on them. I hope you and your Son are doing well. Doug
Thanks Doug I appreciate you watching and leaving your comment! Yes, I’ve been out on more rides since this video was made and I can confirm it was a good swap! Yes, Owen is good and loving the riding:). Also, for what it’s worth, I almost ordered Schwalbe nobby nics. But I had that trek voucher.
@@dirtyforksmtb what do think of Maxxis DHR front and DHR ll rear. Their 2.8 actually measures 2.6 according to some videos I watched. I went on a pretty difficult trail and felt like the ronnies had terrible grip.
@@douglaslangella7782hey, yeah for sure Maxxis rubber is really good. The dhr2 and dhf/dhr are fantastic tires. You can get them in a ton of different casings. Notorious grip. Tires can transform your bike and how confident you feel on it. The rocket Ronnie’s are terrible in the wet. I noticed it the first time I rode those tires. Great on dry hard pack and fast rolling. But anything else, they weren’t that great. The maxxis will be slower rolling but great on everything else. Just be sure to get the right rubber compound for the type of trails you ride:). And yes, maxxis tires are usually on the skinnier side. Also, width is dependant on inner rim width as well. You can’t go wrong with maxxis rubber.
Hey thanks for watching and thanks for your question! My recommendation is not to do that. Technically you can do it but those widths are technically too narrow for an i40 rim. A few things; 1. Your tires would be too squared out, 2. Your tires would feel weird when cornering, 3. Your tires will feel sluggish, 4. Your tires will wear faster, 5. The narrow tires will also reduce your bottom bracket height. This will increase the chance of pedal strikes. 6. Your rims will be more prone to damage from square edged hits thus increasing the likelihood of costly accidents and flats. My suggestion for you is to go 2.6 and go with a maxxis Rekon (or similar XC tire) and set up tubeless. The reduced rolling mass of that set-up will be very noticeable in my opinion.
Excellent video. I have replied many times to your videos which are great for hardtailers. Do you have a way for an enthusiast to contact you with questions versus comments? Have you done any videos on crank length?
Hey Richard, yes I remember you. I thank you for your continued support for the channel! Yes, we have an Instagram account now. It is dirtyforks_mtb in which you can message me. No I haven’t made any videos on crank length. My suggestion is 165-170mm. I am in an XL bike now and I run 170. Look forward to hearing from you!
@dirtyforksmtb ok will do. I also have 40mm rims. Never thought about a 2.6. Much more selection. My 2.8s give me confidence over roots. Maybe will try 2.6's. Also love the tweaking and dialing my bike. Am also running Xr4s. But was wondering does adding a xr3 on back help rolling but sacrifice climbing grip. I also ran rocket rons that came on a large I was trying. (I ride xlg) Holy moly. PRs all over especialy smooth trails. Rocket Rons took no effort on me physically. But no confidence on loose or rocky. Look at Xr3's. Combo of the xr2 and 4. Good video. Helped.
hey Richard, yeah the 2.6 XR4 was a game changer over the rocket Ronnie’s! Like you said, no grip and compete lack of confidence on anything wet and trying to climb wet trails was almost impossible. on the dry, they were very fast rolling tires. Great for XC dry hard pack conditions. The XR4 were very noticeable slow rollers but grip for days in all terrain. I would highly suggest XR3 in the rear and XR4 in the front. The 2.6” tires definitely livened up the bike a lot I noticed. I would say that if I did it again I would go 2.8 XR4 front and 2.6 XR3 rear. That way you still get the benefit of a larger diameter wheel in the front and a bit more playfulness in the rear. I am now on a new bike and have Maxxis 2.6 dissector F/R This tire has blown me away. Grip for days. I can highly recommend. Here is a new video about me trying out the new rig! Thanks again for watching!!! First impressions while riding the Commencal Meta HT AM Race ruclips.net/video/NEzzuoHsXeU/видео.html
yes because they give me all the grip I need. I am of the mindset that no matter the rolling speed it will make me stronger if they are slower. It’s the price I pay because I want the grip and DH/enduro performance!!
18:30 Great. Looks like 2.6 will work on 40 mm rims. I am changing to 170 cranks also from 175mm. Mine are 40mm. Also want to run the Tannus in both. 2.8's give a lot of confidence but the 2.8 selection of tires is dwindling. I have had the XR4'S 2.8 for two weeks now. They handle everything. Considering the Xr3 now to see if they are easier to pedal, grip and maybe roll over things smoother. And I just don't want to be nervous with the lack of thick knobs on the XR3 all around. But I ride hard pack and loose in Texas. Rarely any wet unless I cross a Creek and the occasional rock garden. Was gonna try Xr3 front and back and see. XR3 on the back with Xr4 front - I wonder if it really makes better handling/speed. Thanks for this video. 6:168:46
Hey Richard, it will make a difference. Rolling sore will be better. I got these ones because I ride loose, wet and chunky. Likely the best set-up is 3 in the rear and the 4 up front. I have 170mm cranks in my bike now and it’s much better. I feel like 170mm is the best length.
I put xr4 29x 2.60 and it slowed my bike down tremendously. Great traction and cornering, but man, felt like my brakes were dragging . Today i tried a 2.4 XR3 in the rear and the 2.6 xr4 in the front and that sped it up a bit. I had a tire similar to the rocket ron you had and riding in the fall with wet leaves and roots was no Bueno. Slipping and sliding bashing ones knees sucks lol.
Exactly. Now that I’ve had them on for a while I don’t notice the drag anymore. If I put on XC tires again I would certainly notice a difference in speed but I really like the traction these tires give me. And exactly as you say, now that the wet leaf ride season is here, I don’t miss my old Ronnie’s at all! Thanks for watching and leaving your comment! Good hearing from you.
Thanks for answering my question, was thinking about switching from a 2.5 to 2.6. Guess I'm going to stay with 2.5 . My last bike had 2.8 or mabye 3.0 27.5 rim. It was awsome downhill but climbing absolutely sucked
@@aaronphillips2728hey there Aaron, thank you for watching and leaving your comment! Let me be clear, don’t hesitate trying the 2.6 on your bike! What makes it slower for me is the type of tire I have used. The XR4. It is a slow rolling tire. I’m ok with it because it gives me so much more traction compared to my old tires. If you went with faster rolling tread, the 2.6 is a great width choice. However in you case moving up from a 2.5 to a 2.6 will likely be negligible. But each tire brand seem to have their own version of true width. Take for example my old Schwalbe rocket Ron’s. In this video they measured far less than 2.8. In fact they measured at a 2.68 if I remember correctly. The XR4’s measured a bit over the stated 2.6 as well. So it’s a matter of brand as your never going to be quite sure exactly the width until they are mounted and inflated. The advantages of the 2.6 though are many and I am really happy with my choice to go a little skinnier! Thanks again for watching!
@dirtyforksmtb 10-4 , thanks for the reply. I actually have a xr5 that came on my trek slash 9.7. I seen a 2.6 tire at a shop and it looked alot bigger then myn. I prefer a larger tire just don't want to loose the climbing or speed.
Wanted to update you, I’m loving my line pro 40 rear wheel. That with the new bottom bracket and I’m rolling much easier, makes the climbing more bearable 😅 no joke my buddy just the other day suggested I try narrower tires when I need new ones and I open RUclips this morning to find your video!
That’s awesome to hear! The line 40 is such a good wheel! Good to hear that the content is relevant! I just know that at some point, ppl with plus tire bikes will inevitably want to try out narrower tires. I can confidently say it makes a big difference. A good difference in my humble opinion.
Thank you again for watching and leaving your comment! We appreciate it! Keep the rubber side down and enjoy the ride my friend!
Hey all, welcome to this weeks video. This video took me longer to produce than most. I wanted to be as thoughtful as possible to give as much info as I could! Hope you enjoy!
I'm going the other way. Moving from 29x2.4" on the back to 27.5x2.8" to try a mullet setup. I'm trying to figure out how the profile will be with a 2.8" tire on an I30 rim. The good news is the blow-out pricing on some leftover 27.5" wheels, lol. I want a big soft rear tire to run low pressures for my bad back. I haven't ordered the tire yet, so I could go with 2.6", but it wouldn't be that much different than my 2.4's. I want to limit BB drop too, so 2.8's might be my move if they aren't overly rounded on an I30.
Hey there and thank you for watching and commenting!
Mullets are cool for increasing manoeuvrability and agility. Think of it this way: a 27.5 inch wheel with a 2.8” width is very close to the same size as a 29er. What you’re trying to achieve is a softer ride with the 2.8. A 2.8 on a i30 rim will be quite rounded out. To get the softer ride you’re looking for, I’m assuming you’ll run low pressure. Because of the narrow rim width, the 2.8 will likely squirm . Taking into account the narrow rim width plus the low tire pressure.
A 2.6 on an i30 rim 27.5 is a better choice only in my opinion. But setting up a bike as mullet, if the bike is not meant to be mullet then you will drop the bottom bracket by a few mm. I have a new bike and I run 29” wheel front and rear with 2.6” rubber. I am set up tubeless and find I can run 24psi in the rear and get away without rim-dings. The higher the tire volume is (2.8) the lower the pressure you can get away with but on an i30 it may work against you.
@@dirtyforksmtb Hmm, ok. Thanks for the input. Maybe I'll try a 2.6" instead. I was trying not to drop the BB by much. The Pivot Switchblade has a flip chip in it, so it compensates some, but it'll still be dropped a bit. I'm not a very aggressive rider, and I avoid rock gardens and rooty trails for my back's sake. I tried my buddy's hardtail fat tire bike, and liked the soft rolling of it, so I thought I'd try something fatter.
Ah I see. The switchblade with the flip chip for mullet configuration. In that case going mullet is good. In the case of the fat bike, that bike likely had 5” rubber. Those tires can run crazy low pressures. I used to have a fat bike with 4” rubber and I remember running 9 psi front and 11 psi rear. Definitely cushy. You could also think about running that rear 27.5 with a 2.6” tire and a tire insert. Obviously you’d need a tubeless set up when running an insert but the insert will allow you to run even lower pressures as the insert will help protect from pinch flats and rim dingers!! And also, every tire manufacturer is different with regards to “actual width sizing”. I know maxxis runs on the smaller side. Research each brand you’re looking in to and see what their actual sizes are like!
Oh and a big back saver on the bike is stack height experimentation with the spacers and bar rise!
@@dirtyforksmtb Yea, the fat bike I rode had 3.8" tires, but it was like riding on carpet. Good point on the manufacturer tire size variances. I saw someone measured a Maxxis DHR 2.8 and it was 26.62" I think. The DT Swiss tire size/pressure guidelines for a i30mm rim is up to 2.7" width in the "recommended" range, with 2.8" being in the "Doable" range. These tires are expensive, but it wouldn't be the end of the world if I made the wrong choice, lol. Definitely will be running tubeless, probably in the low 20's PSI wise. Not looking for super low fat tire pressures. I'll still have my 29" wheel and 2.4 DHR tire if I want to swap back and forth. Going mullet, I might have to drop my stem another spacer. I got riser bars for it and was wheeling up hills so I had to drop it a little already. It's all fun experimentation though. At some point it'll be dialed in.
Thanks for this video. Several people suggested going down to a 2.6 tire on my basically stock Roscoe 6. It will be awhile yet as my Ronnies are still in good shape. I think the tire you recommended is discontinued. REI has a great sale on them. I hope you and your Son are doing well. Doug
Thanks Doug I appreciate you watching and leaving your comment! Yes, I’ve been out on more rides since this video was made and I can confirm it was a good swap! Yes, Owen is good and loving the riding:). Also, for what it’s worth, I almost ordered Schwalbe nobby nics. But I had that trek voucher.
@@dirtyforksmtb what do think of Maxxis DHR front and DHR ll rear. Their 2.8 actually measures 2.6 according to some videos I watched. I went on a pretty difficult trail and felt like the ronnies had terrible grip.
@@douglaslangella7782hey, yeah for sure Maxxis rubber is really good. The dhr2 and dhf/dhr are fantastic tires. You can get them in a ton of different casings. Notorious grip. Tires can transform your bike and how confident you feel on it. The rocket Ronnie’s are terrible in the wet. I noticed it the first time I rode those tires. Great on dry hard pack and fast rolling. But anything else, they weren’t that great. The maxxis will be slower rolling but great on everything else. Just be sure to get the right rubber compound for the type of trails you ride:). And yes, maxxis tires are usually on the skinnier side. Also, width is dependant on inner rim width as well. You can’t go wrong with maxxis rubber.
@@dirtyforksmtb sorry, I forgot to ask if you can run them with inner tubes.
@@douglaslangella7782you can run them with tubes yes. Most tires can whether they’re wire bead or folding bead.
Hi. I have 40mm rim on a roscoe 8 with 2.8 maxxis. It is feasible go put 2.3 or 2.4 xc tires on that rim? Thanks!
Hey thanks for watching and thanks for your question! My recommendation is not to do that. Technically you can do it but those widths are technically too narrow for an i40 rim. A few things; 1. Your tires would be too squared out, 2. Your tires would feel weird when cornering, 3. Your tires will feel sluggish, 4. Your tires will wear faster, 5. The narrow tires will also reduce your bottom bracket height. This will increase the chance of pedal strikes. 6. Your rims will be more prone to damage from square edged hits thus increasing the likelihood of costly accidents and flats.
My suggestion for you is to go 2.6 and go with a maxxis Rekon (or similar XC tire) and set up tubeless. The reduced rolling mass of that set-up will be very noticeable in my opinion.
@dirtyforksmtb thanks man!
Excellent video. I have replied many times to your videos which are great for hardtailers. Do you have a way for an enthusiast to contact you with questions versus comments? Have you done any videos on crank length?
Hey Richard, yes I remember you. I thank you for your continued support for the channel! Yes, we have an Instagram account now. It is dirtyforks_mtb in which you can message me. No I haven’t made any videos on crank length. My suggestion is 165-170mm. I am in an XL bike now and I run 170. Look forward to hearing from you!
@dirtyforksmtb ok will do. I also have 40mm rims. Never thought about a 2.6. Much more selection. My 2.8s give me confidence over roots. Maybe will try 2.6's. Also love the tweaking and dialing my bike. Am also running Xr4s. But was wondering does adding a xr3 on back help rolling but sacrifice climbing grip.
I also ran rocket rons that came on a large I was trying. (I ride xlg)
Holy moly. PRs all over especialy smooth trails. Rocket Rons took no effort on me physically. But no confidence on loose or rocky. Look at Xr3's. Combo of the xr2 and 4. Good video. Helped.
hey Richard, yeah the 2.6 XR4 was a game changer over the rocket Ronnie’s! Like you said, no grip and compete lack of confidence on anything wet and trying to climb wet trails was almost impossible. on the dry, they were very fast rolling tires. Great for XC dry hard pack conditions. The XR4 were very noticeable slow rollers but grip for days in all terrain. I would highly suggest XR3 in the rear and XR4 in the front. The 2.6” tires definitely livened up the bike a lot I noticed. I would say that if I did it again I would go 2.8 XR4 front and 2.6 XR3 rear. That way you still get the benefit of a larger diameter wheel in the front and a bit more playfulness in the rear.
I am now on a new bike and have Maxxis 2.6 dissector F/R This tire has blown me away. Grip for days. I can highly recommend. Here is a new video about me trying out the new rig! Thanks again for watching!!!
First impressions while riding the Commencal Meta HT AM Race
ruclips.net/video/NEzzuoHsXeU/видео.html
@dirtyforksmtb
You are happy with the rolling resistance of your Dissectors?
yes because they give me all the grip I need. I am of the mindset that no matter the rolling speed it will make me stronger if they are slower. It’s the price I pay because I want the grip and DH/enduro performance!!
18:30 Great. Looks like 2.6 will work on 40 mm rims. I am changing to 170 cranks also from 175mm. Mine are 40mm. Also want to run the Tannus in both. 2.8's give a lot of confidence but the 2.8 selection of tires is dwindling.
I have had the XR4'S 2.8 for two weeks now. They handle everything. Considering the Xr3 now to see if they are easier to pedal, grip and maybe roll over things smoother. And I just don't want to be nervous with the lack of thick knobs on the XR3 all around. But I ride hard pack and loose in Texas. Rarely any wet unless I cross a Creek and the occasional rock garden. Was gonna try Xr3 front and back and see. XR3 on the back with Xr4 front - I wonder if it really makes better handling/speed. Thanks for this video. 6:16 8:46
Hey Richard, it will make a difference. Rolling sore will be better. I got these ones because I ride loose, wet and chunky. Likely the best set-up is 3 in the rear and the 4 up front. I have 170mm cranks in my bike now and it’s much better. I feel like 170mm is the best length.
I put xr4 29x 2.60 and it slowed my bike down tremendously. Great traction and cornering, but man, felt like my brakes were dragging . Today i tried a 2.4 XR3 in the rear and the 2.6 xr4 in the front and that sped it up a bit. I had a tire similar to the rocket ron you had and riding in the fall with wet leaves and roots was no Bueno. Slipping and sliding bashing ones knees sucks lol.
Exactly. Now that I’ve had them on for a while I don’t notice the drag anymore. If I put on XC tires again I would certainly notice a difference in speed but I really like the traction these tires give me. And exactly as you say, now that the wet leaf ride season is here, I don’t miss my old Ronnie’s at all! Thanks for watching and leaving your comment! Good hearing from you.
Thanks for answering my question, was thinking about switching from a 2.5 to 2.6. Guess I'm going to stay with 2.5 . My last bike had 2.8 or mabye 3.0 27.5 rim. It was awsome downhill but climbing absolutely sucked
@@aaronphillips2728hey there Aaron, thank you for watching and leaving your comment!
Let me be clear, don’t hesitate trying the 2.6 on your bike! What makes it slower for me is the type of tire I have used. The XR4. It is a slow rolling tire. I’m ok with it because it gives me so much more traction compared to my old tires. If you went with faster rolling tread, the 2.6 is a great width choice. However in you case moving up from a 2.5 to a 2.6 will likely be negligible. But each tire brand seem to have their own version of true width. Take for example my old Schwalbe rocket Ron’s. In this video they measured far less than 2.8. In fact they measured at a 2.68 if I remember correctly. The XR4’s measured a bit over the stated 2.6 as well. So it’s a matter of brand as your never going to be quite sure exactly the width until they are mounted and inflated. The advantages of the 2.6 though are many and I am really happy with my choice to go a little skinnier! Thanks again for watching!
@dirtyforksmtb 10-4 , thanks for the reply. I actually have a xr5 that came on my trek slash 9.7. I seen a 2.6 tire at a shop and it looked alot bigger then myn. I prefer a larger tire just don't want to loose the climbing or speed.
Is that bike heavy?
33+lbs. yes
I have xr4 29 2.4 on 30mm rim front and 27.5 2.4 on 35mm rim works great . Mullet hardtail Canyon stoic