Welcome back to the #RadicalRundown! This week, Phil talks about making adjustments when you are leaving corner pins! Questions? Comments? Let us know! #Bowling #BowlingTips
Amen on that last item. I hear it SO often from opponents that "my carry went away" and "I'm smashing the pocket, but can't buy a strike" when it's clear as day to me that they've encountered a bit of carrydown. Almost every time it's as simple as a small adjustment with your feet to kiss off the dry on a THS, or a slightly more aggressive move deeper with some axis rotation. THE BEST thing a bowler can do beyond the fundamentals is getting comfortable with striking in multiple zones.
Great advice. Can’t tell you how many league days have gone south because I adjusted off bad shots. Sometimes realizing your off helps you be happy with 9 spare.
I use a vintage Columbia 300 white dot. No side weight or top weight drilled into the ball. I throw 3 different balls. In practice I look closely at lane conditions. I don't even throw the ball at the pocket at first. I try to pick off the 7 or 10 pins without hitting any other pin in the rack. By throwing the ball across lane at these pins, I can see if the oil is heavy or not. Also by how much the ball picks up oil. After doing that several times, I already know how to get the ball to the pocket. Whether to throw a skid ball, 3/4 or full roller. The white dot I can watch and count revolutions, and see how the ball is reacting to the lane. If condition of lane is freshly oiled, all I have to do is slow the ball speed down and get the ball to start rolling sooner once it's released. A ball rolling into the pocket will always carry more pins than one that skids into it. If the lanes are semi dry, I'll through a full roller. If dry, I throw the old man skidder. Well that's what I call it. You have to adjust. Most modern bowlers rely on the ball being adjusted to a particular lane condition. I would rather have control how the ball reacts and performs. But I'm old school. Example. I bowled in a tournament. 4 men to a lane. Most of the bowlers were using those new oil sucking off the lane balls. Second game, one of the men bowled a 300. He throughs the house shot. Well the last game of the tournament, lanes broke down. I told the 3 men, looks like a lot of splits this time. Sure enough, mr 300 through a couple. I threw my old man skid ball. Ended up with a 247. Mr 300 couldn't throw a 200. Some adjustment is your ball. Some is you. Both work. One thing. The ball carries more pins if it rolls in the pocket.
A Storm pro who subs on my team told me w ringing 10's whereever you look on the lane normally, look alittle closer to yourself, 1" or so. It''ll make it touch the friction alil sooner and roll more into the pocket. Seems to work
Great corner pin tip, I do have to say moving up does allow me to deal with transition very well, but I don't change my speed, your tips are great, I always look forward to hearing them.
I thought i made a mistake getting a ball drilled pin off ring finger to pinky side. Decided to give it one more try sunday night,swept the pins off deck for 1st 4 in game 1,and brought it back out for game 3 after lanes started to transition. Definitely going to use more now.
If i hit the 3 pin more solid then the 1 pin i know it’s a wrap 10. If i hit the 1 pin more solid then the 3 I’m probably leaving the 4 pin. Sometimes it’s better to have a Lite strike cause then i don’t leave the 10 or 4. Like u said it’s the angle the ball hits the pocket. Great video
@@jesse75 Yeah i still haven’t really figured out y the 7 pin stays. I don’t leave many of those but still would be nice to know exactly y it’s not going down.
@@addictedTobowling all good bowler's leave an occasional 7 pin. The head pin hits the left wall and bangs straight across the deck. The five pin doesn't take out the 7 pin because the 4 pin gets in the way.
Great stuff that was exactly happened early on today when I was struggling leaving ten pins after a 240 game in a little contest. Thank you for the tip.❤
When it goes long and doesn't recover that's obvious to the eye. I think he's referring to when it looks like a good hit and doesn't snap the corner out.
Going long usually is over/under lane conditions, or ineffective ball release. Typically if you go long you hit the pocket light and or likely to have mini split or bucket on the left side. Important the hand stays behind the ball with the weight of the ball on the middle finger. You want to push the ball down to the lane and allow the pendulum motion of the arm to extend and arc upward in front of the face. As this happens naturally the thumb comes out first followed by the middle and ring fingers generating revs and energizing the physics of the bowling ball center weight block.
@@AverageLeagueHack it’s not always obvious. It’s one of the hardest things to figure out in bowling, is my ball burning up or is it just not a strong enough ball and going too long and/or not recovering properly. This is why Chris Barnes likes to start with his biggest heavy oil ball that still hits. This way he knows that when he starts leaving flat 10's, that it is because his ball is burning up, not because it's going too long or is too weak
@@dennisbrinkley8613 If you have the proper ball and are standing in the right part of the lane, you can get away with all manner of terrible releases. I used to leave a lot of flat 10's because I was using too weak of a ball. It wasn't burning up, it's hitting power was being negated by carry down. I used to think carry down didn't happen if nobody was using urethane, until I walked down and looked at the end lane, I could plainly see that there was a lot of carry down and it was sapping my balls hitting power. The answer? Balling up to something with more teeth so it would corner better. My ball wasn't burning up, it was underpowered. This is the reason why you see so many flat corners with urethane.
@@IAmTheEggMan111 Carry down lane oil is a real challenge. The topography of the Houseshot oil pattern will breakdown and oil will be pushed down lane. If your ball track breakpoint intersects the carry down lane oil the ball will have difficulty in hooking. You can move to the left to change the ball track to bypass the carry lane oil or you can use a bowling ball that has lower surface grit. Moving left might require slower ball speed and more axis rotation. Another tactic to consider is aiming for a Brooklyn. You’re less likely to leave a flat 10 and more probable to have an easier spare shot.
For what its worth! I have been doing the 4 inch closer to foul line for most of this year when leaving the 10 pin,and getting the strike next time up on any given lane in any house. Im more accurate on this than 4 inches back for the lighter hit.
What about pins that just fall weird. Like in order to strike you hit the pocket but the pins either spin around vertically or horizontally? I had that issue last night so it made it confusing on how to adjust once I had 5 9/ in a row. None of my previous strikes looked normal. How would you suggest an adjustment?
If you are a righty, your ball is hooking way to much and hard in the pocket. One of my league team mates throws one of those balls. Every week he leaves that pin and whines like a little kid.
Interesting...yeah, when I move forward I do finish closer to the line. Same when I move back. Doesn't seem to affect my ball speed at all. I have had times when I move forward about 6 inches and start striking.
That shows your approach stride stays consistent. Some bowlers (me included) will adjust their stride speed and length when they move up or back on the approach and end in almost the same spot at the line. It can change ball speed doing that. If you finish closer to the line you project farther onto the lane, whereas farther back from the line gets your ball into the lane faster - just watch for setting the ball down at or behind the line. That opens a whole can of other issues!
Good point. The theory if you keep the same footwork pace it will require a shorter backswing and result in lower ball speed when you move closer to the foul line.
I'm lefthanded. I leave more 10pins vs 7pins, the I adjust to carry the 10pin then I leave the 7pin . I'm old school with a lot of fingers in the ball. What should I try , my avg just stays around 198 to 203
Phil sounds better, more serious, less sarcastic this time. nice. one correction though : The perfect strike is not when the 6 goes to the channel and then cuts the 10 in half. It is when the 6 goes directly into the 10 head on.
LASER Loft Angle Speed Equipment Release Flat 10 - the bowling ball 🎳 is too late in starting the end over end roll phase. Consequently, when the ball hits the pin deck it has insufficient energy and deflects to the right passing left of the 10 pin. This usually affects rev dominant bowlers. The best adjustment is equipment followed with release. Using a pearl coverstock bowling ball that has larger drill angle 📐 ex: 60 degrees with a smaller VAL angle 📐 ex: 20 degrees will help to conserve ball energy and enable better pin deck dynamics. More axis rotation at the release will also help. You can also try to move left ( middle track) so that the ball stays in the oil longer and flares at the backend as well.
The ideal strike is not the 6 pin coming off the sidewall and hitting the 10. That is a bad strike. The ball deflected off the pocket. Minor deflection you have a ringing 10 and large deflection you have a flat 10. In both cases the ball deflected. Ideal strike is when the ball does not deflect and goes through the pins properly and all the pins are driven back causing the 6 to push the 10 straight back off the deck. That is what we call a "perfect packed strike."
This is true and accurate. Bowlers don't see this kind of strike very often. Most of the time people see the ten karate chopped in the middle or tripped off the side board at the foot of the pin.
@@allenthomas914 watch Eral Anthony teaches bowling. He has some great vintage bowling instructions. The nearer you can get the ball rolling to the foul line, the more you will carry the corner pins. If you start leaving more 7 pins as a right hander, you are on the right track.
Amen on that last item. I hear it SO often from opponents that "my carry went away" and "I'm smashing the pocket, but can't buy a strike" when it's clear as day to me that they've encountered a bit of carrydown. Almost every time it's as simple as a small adjustment with your feet to kiss off the dry on a THS, or a slightly more aggressive move deeper with some axis rotation.
THE BEST thing a bowler can do beyond the fundamentals is getting comfortable with striking in multiple zones.
Great advice. Can’t tell you how many league days have gone south because I adjusted off bad shots. Sometimes realizing your off helps you be happy with 9 spare.
I use a vintage Columbia 300 white dot.
No side weight or top weight drilled into the ball.
I throw 3 different balls.
In practice I look closely at lane conditions.
I don't even throw the ball at the pocket at first.
I try to pick off the 7 or 10 pins without hitting any other pin in the rack.
By throwing the ball across lane at these pins, I can see if the oil is heavy or not. Also by how much the ball picks up oil.
After doing that several times, I already know how to get the ball to the pocket.
Whether to throw a skid ball, 3/4 or full roller.
The white dot I can watch and count revolutions, and see how the ball is reacting to the lane.
If condition of lane is freshly oiled, all I have to do is slow the ball speed down and get the ball to start rolling sooner once it's released.
A ball rolling into the pocket will always carry more pins than one that skids into it.
If the lanes are semi dry, I'll through a full roller.
If dry, I throw the old man skidder. Well that's what I call it.
You have to adjust. Most modern bowlers rely on the ball being adjusted to a particular lane condition.
I would rather have control how the ball reacts and performs.
But I'm old school.
Example. I bowled in a tournament. 4 men to a lane. Most of the bowlers were using those new oil sucking off the lane balls.
Second game, one of the men bowled a 300. He throughs the house shot.
Well the last game of the tournament, lanes broke down. I told the 3 men, looks like a lot of splits this time. Sure enough, mr 300 through a couple.
I threw my old man skid ball. Ended up with a 247.
Mr 300 couldn't throw a 200.
Some adjustment is your ball. Some is you. Both work.
One thing. The ball carries more pins if it rolls in the pocket.
A Storm pro who subs on my team told me w ringing 10's whereever you look on the lane normally, look alittle closer to yourself, 1" or so. It''ll make it touch the friction alil sooner and roll more into the pocket. Seems to work
So i have to make moves AND throw good shots?!?! 🤯
Nuts!
😂😂 bowling is so temperamental! Yea, you gotta throw good shots AND move! Tell us once you've figured out HOW to do this...haha!!
Great corner pin tip, I do have to say moving up does allow me to deal with transition very well, but I don't change my speed, your tips are great, I always look forward to hearing them.
I thought i made a mistake getting a ball drilled pin off ring finger to pinky side. Decided to give it one more try sunday night,swept the pins off deck for 1st 4 in game 1,and brought it back out for game 3 after lanes started to transition. Definitely going to use more now.
If i hit the 3 pin more solid then the 1 pin i know it’s a wrap 10. If i hit the 1 pin more solid then the 3 I’m probably leaving the 4 pin. Sometimes it’s better to have a Lite strike cause then i don’t leave the 10 or 4. Like u said it’s the angle the ball hits the pocket. Great video
But then the 7 pin may not carry.
@@jesse75
Yeah i still haven’t really figured out y the 7 pin stays. I don’t leave many of those but still would be nice to know exactly y it’s not going down.
@@addictedTobowling all good bowler's leave an occasional 7 pin.
The head pin hits the left wall and bangs straight across the deck. The five pin doesn't take out the 7 pin because the 4 pin gets in the way.
@@jesse75
Thanks appreciate the info. Always trying to learn and get better.
Very helpful insights!
Great stuff that was exactly happened early on today when I was struggling leaving ten pins after a 240 game in a little contest. Thank you for the tip.❤
Right on Phil good stuff sir.
Flat 10 can also be due to the ball going a bit too long so flat 10 is tricky
When it goes long and doesn't recover that's obvious to the eye. I think he's referring to when it looks like a good hit and doesn't snap the corner out.
Going long usually is over/under lane conditions, or ineffective ball release.
Typically if you go long you hit the pocket light and or likely to have mini split or bucket on the left side.
Important the hand stays behind the ball with the weight of the ball on the middle finger. You want to push the ball down to the lane and allow the pendulum motion of the arm to extend and arc upward in front of the face.
As this happens naturally the thumb comes out first followed by the middle and ring fingers generating revs and energizing the physics of the bowling ball center weight block.
@@AverageLeagueHack it’s not always obvious. It’s one of the hardest things to figure out in bowling, is my ball burning up or is it just not a strong enough ball and going too long and/or not recovering properly. This is why Chris Barnes likes to start with his biggest heavy oil ball that still hits. This way he knows that when he starts leaving flat 10's, that it is because his ball is burning up, not because it's going too long or is too weak
@@dennisbrinkley8613 If you have the proper ball and are standing in the right part of the lane, you can get away with all manner of terrible releases. I used to leave a lot of flat 10's because I was using too weak of a ball. It wasn't burning up, it's hitting power was being negated by carry down. I used to think carry down didn't happen if nobody was using urethane, until I walked down and looked at the end lane, I could plainly see that there was a lot of carry down and it was sapping my balls hitting power. The answer? Balling up to something with more teeth so it would corner better. My ball wasn't burning up, it was underpowered. This is the reason why you see so many flat corners with urethane.
@@IAmTheEggMan111 Carry down lane oil is a real challenge.
The topography of the Houseshot oil pattern will breakdown and oil will be pushed down lane. If your ball track breakpoint intersects the carry down lane oil the ball will have difficulty in hooking.
You can move to the left to change the ball track to bypass the carry lane oil or you can use a bowling ball that has lower surface grit.
Moving left might require slower ball speed and more axis rotation.
Another tactic to consider is aiming for a Brooklyn. You’re less likely to leave a flat 10 and more probable to have an easier spare shot.
For what its worth! I have been doing the 4 inch closer to foul line for most of this year when leaving the 10 pin,and getting the strike next time up on any given lane in any house. Im more accurate on this than 4 inches back for the lighter hit.
Thanks Phil!😊
Cool video talk tech bowling bowling Phil
Thank you very much
I attended a Mo seminar and he said the same thing and I've adhered to it... never move off a bad shot.
What about pins that just fall weird. Like in order to strike you hit the pocket but the pins either spin around vertically or horizontally? I had that issue last night so it made it confusing on how to adjust once I had 5 9/ in a row. None of my previous strikes looked normal. How would you suggest an adjustment?
My success comes with 6" move forward. Last league adjustment gave me 9 bagger after two pocket 10s.
Great stuff...
I tend to leave tens as a right hander when I overthrow as I am a low rev person.
You will carry more 10's if you get the ball rolling sooner off of your hand.
Need help. What is your adjustment when you start leaving stone 9 pins? Just wondering, thanks.
If you are a righty, your ball is hooking way to much and hard in the pocket.
One of my league team mates throws one of those balls. Every week he leaves that pin and whines like a little kid.
Interesting...yeah, when I move forward I do finish closer to the line. Same when I move back. Doesn't seem to affect my ball speed at all. I have had times when I move forward about 6 inches and start striking.
That shows your approach stride stays consistent. Some bowlers (me included) will adjust their stride speed and length when they move up or back on the approach and end in almost the same spot at the line. It can change ball speed doing that. If you finish closer to the line you project farther onto the lane, whereas farther back from the line gets your ball into the lane faster - just watch for setting the ball down at or behind the line. That opens a whole can of other issues!
Good point.
The theory if you keep the same footwork pace it will require a shorter backswing and result in lower ball speed when you move closer to the foul line.
I'm lefthanded. I leave more 10pins vs 7pins, the I adjust to carry the 10pin then I leave the 7pin . I'm old school with a lot of fingers in the ball. What should I try , my avg just stays around 198 to 203
Phil sounds better, more serious, less sarcastic this time. nice. one correction though : The perfect strike is not when the 6 goes to the channel and then cuts the 10 in half. It is when the 6 goes directly into the 10 head on.
Would love to see examples to help me understand I had this issue a few weeks back 7 frames of 7 pin not being touched
LASER
Loft
Angle
Speed
Equipment
Release
Flat 10 - the bowling ball 🎳 is too late in starting the end over end roll phase. Consequently, when the ball hits the pin deck it has insufficient energy and deflects to the right passing left of the 10 pin.
This usually affects rev dominant bowlers.
The best adjustment is equipment followed with release.
Using a pearl coverstock bowling ball that has larger drill angle 📐 ex: 60 degrees with a smaller VAL angle 📐 ex: 20 degrees will help to conserve ball energy and enable better pin deck dynamics.
More axis rotation at the release will also help.
You can also try to move left ( middle track) so that the ball stays in the oil longer and flares at the backend as well.
I leave a crap load of 7 pins. Ill have to start paying attention to what the 4 pin is doing.
Also watch where your ball exits. Directly in the center is best. The more the ball deflects to your arm side the more you will leave the corner.
The ideal strike is not the 6 pin coming off the sidewall and hitting the 10. That is a bad strike. The ball deflected off the pocket.
Minor deflection you have a ringing 10 and large deflection you have a flat 10. In both cases the ball deflected.
Ideal strike is when the ball does not deflect and goes through the pins properly and all the pins are driven back causing the 6 to push the 10 straight back off the deck.
That is what we call a "perfect packed strike."
This is true and accurate. Bowlers don't see this kind of strike very often.
Most of the time people see the ten karate chopped in the middle or tripped off the side board at the foot of the pin.
Ah so ring tens is a reason to go buy a new ball. Thanks Radical…….
What to do for older slower bowling
Just gotta throw it better 🤣
👍🏻
I leave so many 10 pins i move right and sometimes it works
You will leave less tens if you get the ball rolling true early.
@@jesse75 and how do I do that?
@@allenthomas914 watch Eral Anthony teaches bowling. He has some great vintage bowling instructions.
The nearer you can get the ball rolling to the foul line, the more you will carry the corner pins.
If you start leaving more 7 pins as a right hander, you are on the right track.
I'm a right handed bowler hitting the one three pocket, yet I'm leaving a lot of seven pins. What would be your advice to start carrying the 7 pin?