Hi, Thanks for your comment. Actually glue makes no difference, we've tested both and there is no improvement in sound reduction from using adhesive. But it's less safe carrying that weight on the wall, so mechanical fixing is by far the best way.
@@SoundproofingStore Hi, I meant that they are easier to install and that the vibration through the screws is minimal compared to gluing. Since it is much easier to install and also doesn't make a mess in case one wanted to remove them as opposed to gluing stuff to walls. I've watched many of your videos and it is very clear and nice how much better you are than most in the solutions you offer. Just would perhaps add as a suggestion that if someone needs greater results, more distance (instead of the 10mm airgap from the wall in the Reductoclip system) and more insulation will give that. As in 200mm or more total thickness compared to the 120mm that is proposed as a baseline. Wish you continued success. Cheers
Hi @stephenBeecroft, yes SoundBoard 4 can be used on brick walls - however, this depends on the level and type of noise you are trying to block. The boards need to be mechanically fixed to the walls. We recommend using Hammerfix screws: soundproofingstore.uk/product/prosound-soundboard-4-direct-to-solid-wall-kit/ Installation of SoundBoard 4 on a brick wall can be found here: ruclips.net/video/5kRXjTEojck/видео.html For brick walls the recommendation would be to use the higher performing ReductoClip System: ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html
Hi @@stephenBeecroft for a barking dog we would point you in the direction of the ReductoClip System. The ReductoClip Independent system is the highest performing as it fully decouples the soundproofing from the offending wall and will give you the best performance in reducing the noise heard from your neighbours dog. Alternatively, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System provides an excellent performance v's space loss result. Please see more information on these systems below: ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html ruclips.net/video/lI2bdQZWyOE/видео.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/walls The recommendation wouldn't be to use the SoundBoard 4 (or any other direct to wall soundproofing panel) in this instance. Please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we will be more than happy to discuss and explain this in more detail with you.
Hi there. I have been looking for a solution for ages to try and minimise sound from my neighbours through the party wall. Your videos have been really informative thank you! I see below you mentioned that this Soundboard 4 wouldn’t be a great option for brick/breeze block walls. If I don’t have the space for the Reductoclip solution what would you recommend? I would have about 40-60mm to play with. It’s mainly for my wife’s office which is a box room and also a cloakroom toilet under the stairs. Appreciate any advice you could offer me.
Hi @nediesneb, great to hear you have found the videos useful, thank you. If you can go to 60mm then the recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip Direct to Wall solution on your party wall. Further info and videos can be found below: ruclips.net/video/lI2bdQZWyOE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system However, please do feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 so we can learn more about the level and type of unwanted noise you are experiencing. We can then advise on the best solution given the space constraints you have.
Hi @abigailtorrance6883, the SoundBoard 4 is simpy fixed directly to the wall with 9 hammerfix fixings per board. A full installation guide can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4 However, whilst adding SoundBoard 4 to a stud wall greatly increases the mass and increases the walls soundproofing capabilities. For solid walls you need a solution that not only adds mass, but one that adds isolation and damping. The recommendation for soundproofing a solid wall would be to use the ReductoClip Independent, or ReductoClip Direct to Wall System. This is because a brick wall is more dense than a stud wall (with much more mass) meaning the bricks will already be doing more soundproofing (naturally) than a stud wall. In most cases, simply adding more mass to a brick wall won't give a huge improvement. Especially for lower frequencies of sound such as deep voices, music and snoring. This video goes into more detail: ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html ReductoClip Independent System: ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system ReductoClip Direct to Wall System: ruclips.net/video/lI2bdQZWyOE/видео.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system
Hi, I have existing walls to soundproof. Just wondering dow you would deal with the stick out thickness of the new boards especially around the door and window frames, and in some other cases the cornice? Or is it better to rip off the plaster wall and re do it?
Hi @philip.1408, the recommendation would be to remove skirting and coving / cornice prior to installing SoundBoard 4. If you are installing Acoustic Mineral Wool, then you'd need to remove the existing plasterboard and fit the mineral wool in between the existing stud work, then a layer of Acoustic Plasterboard and then SoundBoard 4. If you don't have enough space for this, you could fit the acoustic mineral wool and then fit the SoundBoard 4. With regards to door frames and thickness - if needed, a thicker door reveal can always be used. Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can talk through this with you in more detail in relation to your own stud wall.
Hi @MrNigelbell, certainly soundproofing with SoundBoard 4 on both sides of the stud wall will increase the performance. With internal walls it's difficult to guarantee 'completely sound transfer free' as there are other potential paths the sound could travel, e.g. the floor, ceiling etc.
If you had to guess / or have data - what would you say about this system compared to your fully floating solution. I love the space saving on this but have FOMO on the other. 😂
Great question. Our ReductoClip System is always going to perform much higher because of the de-coupling and vibration damping of the system. So if you have the space to use the ReductoClip system then that will always be better. However, some situations don't necessarily need the absolute best performance or don't have the space. In this case with it being lightweight stud walls, we know the SoundBoard 4 will make a huge difference while keeping things more simple and less space loss. However on a solid brick / block wall the SoundBoard 4 won't offer as much of an improvement so the ReductoClip system would be our recommendation. Hope that helps!
@@SoundproofingStore What are your thoughts on lining a loft floor with this? The ceiling is braced with extra beams to take the weight. Plus no one will be walking in the loft. I'm just trying to be cunning with soundproofing above a ceiling more than below one to lessen sound transfer to our neighbours.
@@KASmonkeys I would offer a good improvement in regard to airborne sound, however I wouldn't recommend it for practicality reasons. The boards aren't structural and although you know that, if you moved house in the future the new owner might think they are floor boards and may walk on them or store heavy things on them and they would collapse. You would be better off using one of our high mass floor board options - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundscreed-25-direct-to-joist
Would this work on a wall which is breeze block along with dot and dab plasterboard (around 9.5mm it would seem). It's the only wall in my front room which is outside facing (along with a large window) and removing the plasterboard isn't an option. I'm also not sure how it would be attached to the wall in my case. Any suggestions please. Many thanks.
Hi, Thanks for your question. This is a difficult one to answer in a short comment, but basically it's unlikely that the noise is getting in via the block external wall. This should have plenty of mass and thickness already. The weakest point of the wall is the window, so I would initially look at adding secondary acoustic glazing rather than adding more to your walls. If for some reason the noise is getting in through the wall, adding SoundBoard 4 over the dot and dab can actually make it worse! You need to remove the dot and dab and fix the SoundBoard 4 directly to the surface of the wall.
@@SoundproofingStore Huge thanks for your quick reply. Apologies however as what I failed to mention is that the noise is coming from the flat ABOVE and not from outside. Primarily conversation and TV can be clearly heard if stood close to the wall and with absolute clarity if an ear is pressed to the wall. Hence I wondered if adding this system to the walls would go someway to deadening the sound to a degree. I'm aware that total isolation from the noise would be a difficult task but if anything can lower the clarity of the noise (which I assume is flanking noise) then that's the kind of result I'm after. Many thanks once again for taking the time to answer my initial question.
@@ds-ve2qo No worries, happy to help. The dot and dab plasterboard will certainly be playing a part in this problem as you have a cavity behind the board for sound to freely travel up and down. So again, I would definitely remove that. SoundBoard 4 may help to a degree by adding more mass but without creatign a cavity. The better option is our ReductoClip direct to wall system - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system
Yes you can add a layer of TecSound or FlexiSound 5 to the wall to further improve the results. Another option is to add another layer of Soundboard 4 on the other side of the stud wall frame. I hope this helps.
Hi, Thank you for the question. Yes, the final layer of the SoundBoard 4 is an acoustic grade plasterboard. So it can be finished and decorated just like a standard plasterboard but with a far greater sound reduction.
Hi, Thank you for your question. A stud wall with our SoundBoard 4 will still have less mass than a solid brick / concrete wall. So no you shouldn't really have any wifi issues unless you already have a very weak signal already.
Excellent presentation & informative video. I’ll be in touch when I move, shortly, to get my space sorted acoustically 👍
Hi Liam_Doherty_UK, great to hear that you found it useful. We will look forward to speaking with you. Hope all goes well with the move!
Pretty excellent results, considering the boards are screwed into the wall (and not glued to the wall). Nice job.
Hi, Thanks for your comment. Actually glue makes no difference, we've tested both and there is no improvement in sound reduction from using adhesive. But it's less safe carrying that weight on the wall, so mechanical fixing is by far the best way.
@@SoundproofingStore Hi, I meant that they are easier to install and that the vibration through the screws is minimal compared to gluing. Since it is much easier to install and also doesn't make a mess in case one wanted to remove them as opposed to gluing stuff to walls. I've watched many of your videos and it is very clear and nice how much better you are than most in the solutions you offer. Just would perhaps add as a suggestion that if someone needs greater results, more distance (instead of the 10mm airgap from the wall in the Reductoclip system) and more insulation will give that. As in 200mm or more total thickness compared to the 120mm that is proposed as a baseline.
Wish you continued success. Cheers
Can you use this on brick walls and just plug and score it to the walls ? , sounds like a great way for sound reduction 👍
Hi @stephenBeecroft, yes SoundBoard 4 can be used on brick walls - however, this depends on the level and type of noise you are trying to block.
The boards need to be mechanically fixed to the walls. We recommend using Hammerfix screws: soundproofingstore.uk/product/prosound-soundboard-4-direct-to-solid-wall-kit/
Installation of SoundBoard 4 on a brick wall can be found here:
ruclips.net/video/5kRXjTEojck/видео.html
For brick walls the recommendation would be to use the higher performing ReductoClip System:
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html
@ we have a dog next door that constantly barks, we are trying to find the best solution to reduce the noise , any help would be appreciated 👍
Hi @@stephenBeecroft for a barking dog we would point you in the direction of the ReductoClip System. The ReductoClip Independent system is the highest performing as it fully decouples the soundproofing from the offending wall and will give you the best performance in reducing the noise heard from your neighbours dog. Alternatively, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System provides an excellent performance v's space loss result. Please see more information on these systems below:
ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/lI2bdQZWyOE/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/walls
The recommendation wouldn't be to use the SoundBoard 4 (or any other direct to wall soundproofing panel) in this instance. Please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we will be more than happy to discuss and explain this in more detail with you.
Hi there. I have been looking for a solution for ages to try and minimise sound from my neighbours through the party wall. Your videos have been really informative thank you! I see below you mentioned that this Soundboard 4 wouldn’t be a great option for brick/breeze block walls. If I don’t have the space for the Reductoclip solution what would you recommend? I would have about 40-60mm to play with. It’s mainly for my wife’s office which is a box room and also a cloakroom toilet under the stairs. Appreciate any advice you could offer me.
Hi @nediesneb, great to hear you have found the videos useful, thank you.
If you can go to 60mm then the recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip Direct to Wall solution on your party wall. Further info and videos can be found below:
ruclips.net/video/lI2bdQZWyOE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system
However, please do feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 so we can learn more about the level and type of unwanted noise you are experiencing. We can then advise on the best solution given the space constraints you have.
The wall between our neighbouring property is just a solid brick wall. How would we apply it? Thanks
Hi @abigailtorrance6883, the SoundBoard 4 is simpy fixed directly to the wall with 9 hammerfix fixings per board. A full installation guide can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4
However, whilst adding SoundBoard 4 to a stud wall greatly increases the mass and increases the walls soundproofing capabilities. For solid walls you need a solution that not only adds mass, but one that adds isolation and damping. The recommendation for soundproofing a solid wall would be to use the ReductoClip Independent, or ReductoClip Direct to Wall System. This is because a brick wall is more dense than a stud wall (with much more mass) meaning the bricks will already be doing more soundproofing (naturally) than a stud wall. In most cases, simply adding more mass to a brick wall won't give a huge improvement. Especially for lower frequencies of sound such as deep voices, music and snoring.
This video goes into more detail:
ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html
ReductoClip Independent System:
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
ReductoClip Direct to Wall System:
ruclips.net/video/lI2bdQZWyOE/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system
Hi, I have existing walls to soundproof. Just wondering dow you would deal with the stick out thickness of the new boards especially around the door and window frames, and in some other cases the cornice? Or is it better to rip off the plaster wall and re do it?
Hi @philip.1408, the recommendation would be to remove skirting and coving / cornice prior to installing SoundBoard 4. If you are installing Acoustic Mineral Wool, then you'd need to remove the existing plasterboard and fit the mineral wool in between the existing stud work, then a layer of Acoustic Plasterboard and then SoundBoard 4. If you don't have enough space for this, you could fit the acoustic mineral wool and then fit the SoundBoard 4.
With regards to door frames and thickness - if needed, a thicker door reveal can always be used.
Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can talk through this with you in more detail in relation to your own stud wall.
A big problem with new builds. Soundproofing on the other side of the original wall, maybe completely sound transfer free.?
Hi @MrNigelbell, certainly soundproofing with SoundBoard 4 on both sides of the stud wall will increase the performance. With internal walls it's difficult to guarantee 'completely sound transfer free' as there are other potential paths the sound could travel, e.g. the floor, ceiling etc.
If you had to guess / or have data - what would you say about this system compared to
your fully floating solution. I love the space saving on this but have FOMO on the other. 😂
Great question. Our ReductoClip System is always going to perform much higher because of the de-coupling and vibration damping of the system. So if you have the space to use the ReductoClip system then that will always be better. However, some situations don't necessarily need the absolute best performance or don't have the space. In this case with it being lightweight stud walls, we know the SoundBoard 4 will make a huge difference while keeping things more simple and less space loss. However on a solid brick / block wall the SoundBoard 4 won't offer as much of an improvement so the ReductoClip system would be our recommendation. Hope that helps!
@@SoundproofingStore interesting! yes thanks that helps. It's is for solid walls.
@@SoundproofingStore What are your thoughts on lining a loft floor with this? The ceiling is braced with extra beams to take the weight. Plus no one will be walking in the loft. I'm just trying to be cunning with soundproofing above a ceiling more than below one to lessen sound transfer to our neighbours.
@@KASmonkeys I would offer a good improvement in regard to airborne sound, however I wouldn't recommend it for practicality reasons. The boards aren't structural and although you know that, if you moved house in the future the new owner might think they are floor boards and may walk on them or store heavy things on them and they would collapse. You would be better off using one of our high mass floor board options - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundscreed-25-direct-to-joist
Would this work on a wall which is breeze block along with dot and dab plasterboard (around 9.5mm it would seem). It's the only wall in my front room which is outside facing (along with a large window) and removing the plasterboard isn't an option. I'm also not sure how it would be attached to the wall in my case. Any suggestions please. Many thanks.
Hi, Thanks for your question. This is a difficult one to answer in a short comment, but basically it's unlikely that the noise is getting in via the block external wall. This should have plenty of mass and thickness already. The weakest point of the wall is the window, so I would initially look at adding secondary acoustic glazing rather than adding more to your walls. If for some reason the noise is getting in through the wall, adding SoundBoard 4 over the dot and dab can actually make it worse! You need to remove the dot and dab and fix the SoundBoard 4 directly to the surface of the wall.
@@SoundproofingStore Huge thanks for your quick reply. Apologies however as what I failed to mention is that the noise is coming from the flat ABOVE and not from outside. Primarily conversation and TV can be clearly heard if stood close to the wall and with absolute clarity if an ear is pressed to the wall. Hence I wondered if adding this system to the walls would go someway to deadening the sound to a degree. I'm aware that total isolation from the noise would be a difficult task but if anything can lower the clarity of the noise (which I assume is flanking noise) then that's the kind of result I'm after. Many thanks once again for taking the time to answer my initial question.
@@ds-ve2qo No worries, happy to help. The dot and dab plasterboard will certainly be playing a part in this problem as you have a cavity behind the board for sound to freely travel up and down. So again, I would definitely remove that. SoundBoard 4 may help to a degree by adding more mass but without creatign a cavity. The better option is our ReductoClip direct to wall system - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system
can you add a layer of tescound to the wall before you use this?
Yes you can add a layer of TecSound or FlexiSound 5 to the wall to further improve the results. Another option is to add another layer of Soundboard 4 on the other side of the stud wall frame. I hope this helps.
Can this be a replacement for plasterboarding
Hi, Thank you for the question. Yes, the final layer of the SoundBoard 4 is an acoustic grade plasterboard. So it can be finished and decorated just like a standard plasterboard but with a far greater sound reduction.
do you guys have (or have plans) for a mainland (Belgium/Benelux) store / webshop ?
I'm afraid we have no plans at the moment to expand into Europe, we're just UK based at the moment.
Does it interfere with a wifi signal?
Hi, Thank you for your question. A stud wall with our SoundBoard 4 will still have less mass than a solid brick / concrete wall. So no you shouldn't really have any wifi issues unless you already have a very weak signal already.
Please can I get a number to call
Hi @danielekwere7996, absolutely. It's (01423) 206208. We'll look forward to speaking with you.