Great video, and clearly explained. I was a big fan of Peter and Jane books when I was younger, so pictorial information is very appealing to my inner professor. Could you add fancy diagrams like squiggly lines to indicate various frequencies of sound hitting the various densities of your wall, and maybe animate it? Cheers.
Hi @rainsseason9617, thank you for your suggestions. More information on the frequency (including diagrams) can also be found on the 'Performance Data' for each soundproofing solution, which you might find interesting. Please see example below: irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/SoundBoard%204%20wall%20Performance%20Data%202023.pdf
Hi @deisel321, our recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip Ceiling Solution on a ceiling: ruclips.net/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/видео.html You can use SoundBoard 4 on a timber joist ceiling for airborne noise, but it won't be as effective as the ReductoClip Solution against impact nose. More details can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/ceilings
I've just had a stud wall built but not happy with the sound reduction. Can still hear 90℅ of the noise as before (movement and talking). It's got rockwool insulation with acoustic plasterboard and that's it. What can I add to it to make it more effective? The wall is built in a bedroom party wall next to neighbours bathroom and staircase.
Hi @gemz2023, has the stud wall been built in front of a brick party wall separating you and your neighbour? With an air gap? i.e. the stud frame isn't touching the existing wall? To achieve the best improvement you need to decouple from the offending wall and then add high mass materials (one layer of acoustic plasterboard won't be enough unfortunately). For the highest reduction, the recommendation would be the ReductoClip Independent Wall solution. Details and the build-up can be found below: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html Feel free to contact us at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk or (01423) 206208 and we can discuss your situation in more detail and advise on the best solution.
Once installed, can you drill fixtures into it without a huge loss off effect? E.g. spot lights, light switches, plug sockets etc. I'm building a gym in my house so want to sound dampen the party wall, ceiling (our living room is above) and another stud wall, but I'll want to add lights, plug points, lights switches and also add a projector to the ceiling. My main reason for sound dampening is due to playing loud music using the gym late at night or really early in the morning
Thanks for the comment. Fixing things to the soundproofing systems isn't necessarily an issue. Nails or screws going into the system is fine. The problem is cutting holes out of the system, removing the mass. So recessed sockets, spotlights etc where you cut a hole out of the soundproofing and fill with a fixture is going to have a negative effect on the sound reduction. The best advice is to use surface mounted fixtures instead, so sockets and lights that are fixed onto the surface not inside of the surface.
Two separate and unconnected wall fames acting as a single frame would make the best sound proofing method of framing wouldnt it? A layer of insulation could be held separately between them allowing for air to move about the internal surfaces of the walls, allowing for moisture to be taken away too. The walls would likely be a minimum of 150mm, causing headaches for selecting timber profiles for dressing the openings (let alone dampening the separate layers where they are ultimately connected to openings) but i think all round it's the best option.
Hi @muntee33, decoupling is certainly the most effective solution, along with adding layers of high mass to block airborne noise. The double stud you describe often isn't a practical solution because of the space loss and in most cases there is often an existing stud wall already there. This video showing the effective soundproofing of an internal stud wall separating bedrooms in a hotel might also be of interest: ruclips.net/video/ZHwa3dYBQsI/видео.html
We generally don't recommend a spray foam. Anything that can be sprayed in will be a very low density which won't help too much for absorbing sound. Plus sprayed foam tends to gather in spots but not fill the space evenly. Why compromise for the sake of taking off a layer of board which is really not very difficult. Either way, the more important point is the mass that you then add to the stud wall.
Thank you for this great video!
Hi @Xsuperkraft, appreciate the comment, thank you!
Good video
Great video, and clearly explained. I was a big fan of Peter and Jane books when I was younger, so pictorial information is very appealing to my inner professor. Could you add fancy diagrams like squiggly lines to indicate various frequencies of sound hitting the various densities of your wall, and maybe animate it? Cheers.
Hi @rainsseason9617, thank you for your suggestions. More information on the frequency (including diagrams) can also be found on the 'Performance Data' for each soundproofing solution, which you might find interesting. Please see example below:
irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/SoundBoard%204%20wall%20Performance%20Data%202023.pdf
I would like to see the test done between your fancy wall and 6 layered fluffy bath towels :D
Hi @jameswredfoxslaughter2913, we know that a test done on any number of fluffy bath towels would = 0 improvement!
Can you use this board on the ceiling ?
Hi @deisel321, our recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip Ceiling Solution on a ceiling:
ruclips.net/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/видео.html
You can use SoundBoard 4 on a timber joist ceiling for airborne noise, but it won't be as effective as the ReductoClip Solution against impact nose. More details can be found here:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/ceilings
I've just had a stud wall built but not happy with the sound reduction. Can still hear 90℅ of the noise as before (movement and talking). It's got rockwool insulation with acoustic plasterboard and that's it. What can I add to it to make it more effective? The wall is built in a bedroom party wall next to neighbours bathroom and staircase.
Hi @gemz2023, has the stud wall been built in front of a brick party wall separating you and your neighbour? With an air gap? i.e. the stud frame isn't touching the existing wall? To achieve the best improvement you need to decouple from the offending wall and then add high mass materials (one layer of acoustic plasterboard won't be enough unfortunately). For the highest reduction, the recommendation would be the ReductoClip Independent Wall solution. Details and the build-up can be found below:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html
Feel free to contact us at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk or (01423) 206208 and we can discuss your situation in more detail and advise on the best solution.
Once installed, can you drill fixtures into it without a huge loss off effect? E.g. spot lights, light switches, plug sockets etc. I'm building a gym in my house so want to sound dampen the party wall, ceiling (our living room is above) and another stud wall, but I'll want to add lights, plug points, lights switches and also add a projector to the ceiling. My main reason for sound dampening is due to playing loud music using the gym late at night or really early in the morning
Thanks for the comment. Fixing things to the soundproofing systems isn't necessarily an issue. Nails or screws going into the system is fine. The problem is cutting holes out of the system, removing the mass. So recessed sockets, spotlights etc where you cut a hole out of the soundproofing and fill with a fixture is going to have a negative effect on the sound reduction. The best advice is to use surface mounted fixtures instead, so sockets and lights that are fixed onto the surface not inside of the surface.
Two separate and unconnected wall fames acting as a single frame would make the best sound proofing method of framing wouldnt it? A layer of insulation could be held separately between them allowing for air to move about the internal surfaces of the walls, allowing for moisture to be taken away too.
The walls would likely be a minimum of 150mm, causing headaches for selecting timber profiles for dressing the openings (let alone dampening the separate layers where they are ultimately connected to openings) but i think all round it's the best option.
Hi @muntee33, decoupling is certainly the most effective solution, along with adding layers of high mass to block airborne noise. The double stud you describe often isn't a practical solution because of the space loss and in most cases there is often an existing stud wall already there. This video showing the effective soundproofing of an internal stud wall separating bedrooms in a hotel might also be of interest: ruclips.net/video/ZHwa3dYBQsI/видео.html
Why if I just spray foam inside the dry wall?
We generally don't recommend a spray foam. Anything that can be sprayed in will be a very low density which won't help too much for absorbing sound. Plus sprayed foam tends to gather in spots but not fill the space evenly. Why compromise for the sake of taking off a layer of board which is really not very difficult. Either way, the more important point is the mass that you then add to the stud wall.