Know this is late but as a historical automotive, electrical tech, I can tell you the common failures with internal fan alternators such as the Ford 6G, are the wearing bits, Slip Rings, and Bearings (Front and Rear), and the brushes. If the brushes wear a considerable amount, they will arc on the slipring, destroying the slipring and eventually the voltage regulator. ....... All of these are parts a DIY can replace themselves, given they have access to a press and a good soldering gun (for the slip rings) The bearings can be removed from the case ends, and pressed off of the rotor. You will have to remove the pulley to get at the front bearing, and remove the slip rings to get at the rear bearing. ... The Slip ring is a glue and press fit to the rear of the rotor (position is very important) and then solder to the rotor windings and secure the winding leads (so they don't sling apart due to centrifugal force)/ ... The Regulator/Brush assembly is very easy to replace, a few bolts and remove the old one and replace with the new one. The new regulator will come with the brushes retained by a pin, don't forget to remove that pin, so you don't short out the brushes, and damage your new regulator. .... Once you replace those bits and properly reassemble the alternator, give it a whirl to make sure it spins free, verify you removed the brush retaining pin. and you should be ready to go.
2 years too late, but: One of those small torx screws holes is also a contact point for power on the bottom side of its hole. Usually the failure is not the regulator itself, rather, it's that, the bottom side of that contact point on the regulator and the mating point on the alt get a light layer of corrosion between them, and it eventually becomes highly resistive or an airgap. Before puting on the new one (or even buying a new one) you should always carefully sand both contact points that mate, clean them, then reinstall the old one and go have tested. I've successfully fixed 3 of my Foci alternators that way. 👍 A huge side note: The color of that little square circuit board cover matters too. There are ~four? different colors, and, using the wrong one may cause the alt to not function. Moral of that story is, always check that the new regulator you are buying has the same color circuit board square cover as your original one. Take care!
I ended up getting rid of this alternator because I was getting rid of stuff I hadn't touched in awhile. I will leave the video up because it still might help someone thinking of rebuilding one of these. If you like this video please check out my new channel: ruclips.net/channel/UCL_xQ5pefDFj0duBNI30Y_g
Know this is late but as a historical automotive, electrical tech, I can tell you the common failures with internal fan alternators such as the Ford 6G, are the wearing bits, Slip Rings, and Bearings (Front and Rear), and the brushes. If the brushes wear a considerable amount, they will arc on the slipring, destroying the slipring and eventually the voltage regulator.
.......
All of these are parts a DIY can replace themselves, given they have access to a press and a good soldering gun (for the slip rings)
The bearings can be removed from the case ends, and pressed off of the rotor. You will have to remove the pulley to get at the front bearing, and remove the slip rings to get at the rear bearing.
...
The Slip ring is a glue and press fit to the rear of the rotor (position is very important) and then solder to the rotor windings and secure the winding leads (so they don't sling apart due to centrifugal force)/
...
The Regulator/Brush assembly is very easy to replace, a few bolts and remove the old one and replace with the new one. The new regulator will come with the brushes retained by a pin, don't forget to remove that pin, so you don't short out the brushes, and damage your new regulator.
....
Once you replace those bits and properly reassemble the alternator, give it a whirl to make sure it spins free, verify you removed the brush retaining pin. and you should be ready to go.
2 years too late, but:
One of those small torx screws holes is also a contact point for power on the bottom side of its hole.
Usually the failure is not the regulator itself, rather, it's that, the bottom side of that contact point on the regulator and the mating point on the alt get a light layer of corrosion between them, and it eventually becomes highly resistive or an airgap.
Before puting on the new one (or even buying a new one) you should always carefully sand both contact points that mate, clean them, then reinstall the old one and go have tested.
I've successfully fixed 3 of my Foci alternators that way. 👍
A huge side note:
The color of that little square circuit board cover matters too.
There are ~four? different colors, and, using the wrong one may cause the alt to not function.
Moral of that story is, always check that the new regulator you are buying has the same color circuit board square cover as your original one.
Take care!
Thanks, this is a lot of good info. I will keep this in mind if I try to fix another Ford alternator.
High0Flier879 months too late, but, for new readers, yes, you have to get it out to clean the bottom contact point.
I ended up getting rid of this alternator because I was getting rid of stuff I hadn't touched in awhile. I will leave the video up because it still might help someone thinking of rebuilding one of these. If you like this video please check out my new channel: ruclips.net/channel/UCL_xQ5pefDFj0duBNI30Y_g
Where did you find the voltage regulator??
Ebay, I think the brush contracts were good.
That alternator is an aftermarket remanufactured piece of shit lol. Probably the rectifier that is faulty. Or a wiring issue on the vehicle.