This channel is SUPER underrated, you should have immensely more subscribers if the algorithm was actually decent. Hah. Hopefully now that you’re past 1k you’ll start seeing a lot of growth, if heard others say it rockets exponentially from the first 1k and you definitely deserve it! The easiest to follow, down to earth, simple instruction we’re looking for after buying our first 3D printer. To watch everyone else you almost have to have been into this for 10 years already and have a base knowledge of at least the slicer, because no one goes into that. They just say “change you x to y and that should help with stringing.” Okay, now I gotta figure out how to actually do that, cause they neglect to mention that. But you? You flipping rule, lol. Thanks, for real. Keep making videos, I’m begging you! lol.
@@pushingplastic7445 Any time! It's well deserved! I have come across a question in the process of printing CNC's extrusion test though. Or a couple questions technically. One: Do you have ironing enabled on your test prints? I doubt it, but I had to make sure. And then two: I'm pretty sure you're printing this at a .2 layer height, correct? Do you always print at a layer height of .2? Or usually at least? Hah. I had begun to print between .16 and .12. But printing at that layer height leaves gaps in the top surface that are even visible in the slicer, unless I add ironing at least. Then in the slicer it looks great, but I haven't tested a print with it just yet. It tripped me out after studying my test print to discover it looked legit exactly like the preview in the slicer. Before I even exported the file, it showed me exactly how the thing was about to look and I just assumed there was a disconnect between looking at it "under a microscope" of sorts compared to looking at it in real life. But no, the gaps present in the top surface in the slicer preview are there on the print as well, almost always in the same place, the 45 degree angle where the infill begins within the object. When running these test prints, should I always print at .2? And should I ever using ironing or anything like that?
This is incredible. The simplicity of how you provided the information in a very clear and direct way. Congratulations on the well-formulated content. Thank you for your time and dedication. Keep up the good work!
Just picked up a Ender 3 V3 the other day and your videos have been really helpful in dialing in the settings for better prints. The quality increase has been impressive over just leaving stuff stock. Thank you for your efforts!
Hi! How about the "print calibration" option in print dialog box? I see the lidar working and a i saw in another channel that function adjust Advance pressure an flow automatically... It is right?
Thanks Bill! I just calculated my e-steps on both V3/SE's using your method and now going to checkout the flow rate as well. Gr8 stuff and thanks for sharing your knowledge especially for V3/SE printers. Sub'ed and liked!!
Awesome!!! Don't forget to work a temperature tower in there too! Honestly, I use my SE just as much as my K1 Max! Thanks for watching and thank you very much for subscribing!!
Thank you for this very informative video, most tell you what to do but dont show you, so your video is fantastic. I will be following it soon as im having a lot of print failures that i think are down to my flow as nozzle will knock print off the bed.
thank you! your videos are clear and easy to understand, without the sensational "youtube voice" that i've come to really despise. i'm having an issue with layer delamination and trying to work my way through potential fixes.
I would look at the printing Temperature and flow rate. Creality Print has Calibrations built in to help with that. I have a few videos that might help as well. Another thing to try is slow print speeds. I don't know what printer you have, but if it's in an area with the slightest breeze, that can cause it too. Thanks for the kind words. As for the sensational RUclips voice, that's not me! In fact, in my early videos the audio was really bad! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much sir! Recently I made an upgrade from Ender 3 Neo (2022) to CR-10 SE , and your tutorials helped me alot, even to know and understand the Creality Print software. And this tutorial too, I have best results at 96% just because I'm not that good at math. :)) I tried at 92 and 94. The best was like I said, 96! Thank you again!
Thanks, your word are very much appreciated. I released 3 videos today, it was originally one long video...like 20 minutes long. I decided to break them down into shorter videos in hopes that people wouldn't get bored waiting for the one piece of information that they might need. Thanks for watching!
5.1 does have the Ender 3 V3 Se in it! I use it with mine. Make sure you have the latest version & updates! The numbers for your flow setting should be on the tabs. If you are going to stick with the earlier version, make sure it is Creality Print, not Creality Slicer. They are two different slicers that on the surface look very much a like, but aren't. My opinion (I know, you didn't ask), I would go to Creality Clouds software download section and get the latest version of 5.
The file from CNC kitchen says rectilinear infill, but there is no such infill in Creality print, does it have a different name? Or is it the aligned rectilinear infill?
You'll be fine with any of the infill options in Creality Print. Rectilinear is pretty much his go to infill. Me, I almost always use grid. Thanks for watching.
You want to look at the Max Volumetric Speed. This is the maximum amount of filament that the slicer will attempt to push through your 3D printer’s hotend. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@knoxbom3274 We all were new at one point! I hope these videos help you along the way, that's what there here for. Don't be afraid to post questions here in the comments. I appreciate you watching!!!
@@pushingplastic7445 your videos have helped me so far. I still watch some of your previous videos about layering now just trying to figure it out again with creality print 5
Definitely! I haven't done one yet because of the flaw in the flow rate test. When setting up Pass 2, it's suppose to ask for the results of Pass 1. It doesn't but I did submit the bug report!
i notice there is overlap in the 'edit' button in parameter config and in the 'manage' button under materials so i'm wondering what gets coded when you slice? to me it seems it is the parameters set in parameter config
@@pushingplastic7445 I'm running it in creality print, I just downloaded creality print 5.0 and it doesn't list my ender 3 v3 se as an option for a printer on there.
Good question, yes, it's very possible. Some of those printers may have the same flow but I would be willing to bet that they are all relatively close to each other.
im using orca slicer for first time with my old ender 3 pro. why when i starting print nozzle temp always 150c with generic pla? my old slicer works with temp 200c.. any setting need to change?
I would check to make sure your filament is dry, your nozzle isn't partially clogged and you are using the right temperature for the material you are printing with.
@pushingplastic7445 machine is brand new, filament is brand new, in a filament dry box using pla at 225° as thats what it likes best. I changed the flow rate from 0.95 to 1.05 and it seems to have helped abit. Just wild being a $1,200 printer brand new and its that badily out. And I'm even using thier filament.
@@FluffyDiceCubes I haven't tried many of their filaments. I've had good luck with the Hyper PLA. I'm trying their ASA right now. I'm still not sure if it's me or the filament. I have some Polymaker ASA arriving tomorrow so I can compare. Have you tried other brands of filament?
@pushingplastic7445 haven't tried another one just yet but you think thier brand they sell would work. That or thier printer would be kinda close to calibrated. I'm still new to this hobby but I'm learning pretty quick. I still have to do more testing
@@FluffyDiceCubes Understood. But keep in mind that the "Hyper" series filament from Creality is designed to work great with the K1 machines, but will not do real well on the Ender machines. To print fast, you have to print at a higher temperature so the filament will flow faster and that's how they tailored the Hyper series. A lot of my prints are with Generic PLA, just over $10/spool. I do a temperature tower first to find what temperature looks the best. Then I dial in the flow rate.
To start with on my k1 in using esun pla hf dried and my flow was at 95 for first test and positive 5 was the best on the second one non were good so do I add 5 to 95 and put 100 cuz I did and it was trash
This video is for a previous version of Creality Print. The process has changed in 5.1. After doing the first pass, there is a little math involved, you update the settings and then do pass 2. I have a video for the updated method ruclips.net/video/caMCAk57SJY/видео.html
did my test and found out 5 and -1 the smoothest. But the formula said +100 but the generic petg profile has it on .95 Should i do 5+(-1)+ 100? or 5+(-1)+ 95? thanks
@@ketchup_tech The video you watched was for Creality Print 4. I do have an updated video for version 5.1 on my channel. Rather than make you watch that, the formula for CP 5.1 is: Old_flow x (100 + the modifier) / 100. In your case your modifier is 5 + (-1) = 4, the formula is 0.95 x (100 + 4) / 100 =0.988, Your new flow rate for 5.1 is 0.988 I hope this helps!
I hope not! I still have it on mine! You could try pressing the letter "C" on the keyboard to see if it activates the Calibration menu. I'm not near my computer as I'm responding but will definitely look into this!
I just checked and the Calibration drop down menu at the top of the screen is still there. But if you don't see it, try pressing the Alt+C keys on the keyboard. I am using the most current version of Creality Print, 4.3.8
@@pushingplastic7445 thank you for replying i will have to try that its so strange i see it on everyone elses but not mine. I just checked update earlier and i am already up to date.
@@JayEm16No problem, happy to do it. If you still don't have any luck, please post back and I'll dig as deep as I can. Good luck and thanks for taking the time to check out my channel!.
@@pushingplastic7445 sweet thank you very much and of course. I want to know more about how slicer works than just the basics. And want to fine tune my printer so your videos have been helpful thank you again i will reach out after i get chance to try what you said
Creality must use a different method for determining the optimal flow rate for specific materials, because the pre-set values are set to 3 significant figures, e.g. the pre-set flow rate for Generic ABS is 0.926. Also, when it worked in Creality Print Ver. 4.3, using the Pass 1, Pass 2 method to determine the flow rate adjustment value, based on an examination of the nine rectangular test tabs, is not as straight forward as it sounds, because printing the nine test tabs with a Standard 0,2 mm layer thickness gives a completely different result compared to printing with an Optimal 0.16 mm layer thickness. Having to determine the optimal flow rate for every print profile available for every material seems to be a monumental task.
This channel is SUPER underrated, you should have immensely more subscribers if the algorithm was actually decent. Hah. Hopefully now that you’re past 1k you’ll start seeing a lot of growth, if heard others say it rockets exponentially from the first 1k and you definitely deserve it! The easiest to follow, down to earth, simple instruction we’re looking for after buying our first 3D printer. To watch everyone else you almost have to have been into this for 10 years already and have a base knowledge of at least the slicer, because no one goes into that. They just say “change you x to y and that should help with stringing.” Okay, now I gotta figure out how to actually do that, cause they neglect to mention that. But you? You flipping rule, lol. Thanks, for real. Keep making videos, I’m begging you! lol.
Thanks! I appreciate that!! And thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 Any time! It's well deserved! I have come across a question in the process of printing CNC's extrusion test though. Or a couple questions technically. One: Do you have ironing enabled on your test prints? I doubt it, but I had to make sure. And then two: I'm pretty sure you're printing this at a .2 layer height, correct? Do you always print at a layer height of .2? Or usually at least? Hah. I had begun to print between .16 and .12. But printing at that layer height leaves gaps in the top surface that are even visible in the slicer, unless I add ironing at least. Then in the slicer it looks great, but I haven't tested a print with it just yet. It tripped me out after studying my test print to discover it looked legit exactly like the preview in the slicer. Before I even exported the file, it showed me exactly how the thing was about to look and I just assumed there was a disconnect between looking at it "under a microscope" of sorts compared to looking at it in real life. But no, the gaps present in the top surface in the slicer preview are there on the print as well, almost always in the same place, the 45 degree angle where the infill begins within the object. When running these test prints, should I always print at .2? And should I ever using ironing or anything like that?
This is incredible. The simplicity of how you provided the information in a very clear and direct way. Congratulations on the well-formulated content. Thank you for your time and dedication. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
NICE A SIMPLE VIDEO WELL EXPLAINED
Thank you very much! I have a few other videos for Creality Print on my channel and another coming this week. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
Just picked up a Ender 3 V3 the other day and your videos have been really helpful in dialing in the settings for better prints. The quality increase has been impressive over just leaving stuff stock. Thank you for your efforts!
Thank you for those kind words and thanks for watching!
awesome, thank you. yet another helpful video :)
Thank you and thanks for watching!!!!!!
Hi! How about the "print calibration" option in print dialog box? I see the lidar working and a i saw in another channel that function adjust Advance pressure an flow automatically... It is right?
That is correct!
Thank you for such easy instructions on setting up k1 max as well as other printers you make them easy to follow!
Thank you very much for the kind words and thank you for watching! It's very much appreciated!
Thanks Bill! I just calculated my e-steps on both V3/SE's using your method and now going to checkout the flow rate as well. Gr8 stuff and thanks for sharing your knowledge especially for V3/SE printers. Sub'ed and liked!!
Awesome!!! Don't forget to work a temperature tower in there too! Honestly, I use my SE just as much as my K1 Max! Thanks for watching and thank you very much for subscribing!!
Thank you for this very informative video, most tell you what to do but dont show you, so your video is fantastic.
I will be following it soon as im having a lot of print failures that i think are down to my flow as nozzle will knock print off the bed.
thank you! your videos are clear and easy to understand, without the sensational "youtube voice" that i've come to really despise. i'm having an issue with layer delamination and trying to work my way through potential fixes.
I would look at the printing Temperature and flow rate. Creality Print has Calibrations built in to help with that. I have a few videos that might help as well. Another thing to try is slow print speeds. I don't know what printer you have, but if it's in an area with the slightest breeze, that can cause it too. Thanks for the kind words. As for the sensational RUclips voice, that's not me! In fact, in my early videos the audio was really bad! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much sir!
Recently I made an upgrade from Ender 3 Neo (2022) to CR-10 SE , and your tutorials helped me alot, even to know and understand the Creality Print software. And this tutorial too, I have best results at 96% just because I'm not that good at math. :)) I tried at 92 and 94. The best was like I said, 96! Thank you again!
Glad to hear it! And sometimes, bad math works out in our favor! Thanks for the comment and thank you very much for watching!
Great video Bill thanks for sharing. A lot of work goes into even a short video,😀
Thanks, your word are very much appreciated. I released 3 videos today, it was originally one long video...like 20 minutes long. I decided to break them down into shorter videos in hopes that people wouldn't get bored waiting for the one piece of information that they might need. Thanks for watching!
I have to use this program for my 3 se since 5 doesn’t have the v3 se on it yet, but for some reason it doesn’t show the numbers on the print
5.1 does have the Ender 3 V3 Se in it! I use it with mine. Make sure you have the latest version & updates! The numbers for your flow setting should be on the tabs. If you are going to stick with the earlier version, make sure it is Creality Print, not Creality Slicer. They are two different slicers that on the surface look very much a like, but aren't. My opinion (I know, you didn't ask), I would go to Creality Clouds software download section and get the latest version of 5.
@@pushingplastic7445 oh I didn’t know that, thanks!!
Do your speed and shell settings affect the test, or are they overridden?
They are not overridden
@@pushingplastic7445 What top layer settings would you recommend for this test?
@@mrblond4325 The test will set that up for you.
@@pushingplastic7445 ok thank you
You are the best!
Thank you so much. This is so helpful. Liked and subd
Awesome & Thank you!!!
The file from CNC kitchen says rectilinear infill, but there is no such infill in Creality print, does it have a different name? Or is it the aligned rectilinear infill?
You'll be fine with any of the infill options in Creality Print. Rectilinear is pretty much his go to infill. Me, I almost always use grid. Thanks for watching.
any help share profile orca slicer setting for ender 3 pro?
How would you calibrate print speed to print flow
You want to look at the Max Volumetric Speed. This is the maximum amount of filament that the slicer will attempt to push through your 3D printer’s hotend. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 thank you for the info. I'm new and just trying to get my prints to look a bit better
@@knoxbom3274 We all were new at one point! I hope these videos help you along the way, that's what there here for. Don't be afraid to post questions here in the comments. I appreciate you watching!!!
@@pushingplastic7445 your videos have helped me so far. I still watch some of your previous videos about layering now just trying to figure it out again with creality print 5
Thanks for great video, please can you do a new video on Carnality Print 5.0 for calibrations. Be nice if you go through all the Calibrations. Thanks
Definitely! I haven't done one yet because of the flaw in the flow rate test. When setting up Pass 2, it's suppose to ask for the results of Pass 1. It doesn't but I did submit the bug report!
@@pushingplastic7445 Thanks appreciate it
@@pushingplastic7445 Editing the Flow Rate for the specific material is completely different in Ver.5 as well.
@@pushingplastic7445 Have you had much luck getting a response from Creality when you report a bug like this? I have a few I can add to your list.
@@howardbealeau I just released a video Saturday for adjusting the flow rate in Creality Print 5 this past Saturday.
do you need to turn off auto temperature for these to work?
i notice there is overlap in the 'edit' button in parameter config and in the 'manage' button under materials so i'm wondering what gets coded when you slice? to me it seems it is the parameters set in parameter config
in manage it said auto temp was off but in parameter config it was on and i noticed my temp was not where i set it when i checked mid print
If you are running this in Creality 5.0, it doesn't work right. There are bugs in the flow rate calibration in versions up to 5.0.2.8694
@@pushingplastic7445 I'm running it in creality print, I just downloaded creality print 5.0 and it doesn't list my ender 3 v3 se as an option for a printer on there.
Would this mean if you have multiple same printer they will each have a different flow rate?
Good question, yes, it's very possible. Some of those printers may have the same flow but I would be willing to bet that they are all relatively close to each other.
im using orca slicer for first time with my old ender 3 pro. why when i starting print nozzle temp always 150c with generic pla? my old slicer works with temp 200c.. any setting need to change?
Great advice!
Thank you very much. I hope it was helpful. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
@@pushingplastic7445 All your content is super useful, please keep up the great work! Glad to have found your channel!
Thank you this is very helpful
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate them. Thanks very much for watching.
Oh boy, how many nerves this man saved he is not even aware of that :D
If I saved one nerve for one maker then my work here is done! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!!!
Wow, thanks for reply. Well for sure you saved mine :) @@pushingplastic7445
got a K1 max and even +20 isnt extruding enough :)
I would check to make sure your filament is dry, your nozzle isn't partially clogged and you are using the right temperature for the material you are printing with.
@pushingplastic7445 machine is brand new, filament is brand new, in a filament dry box using pla at 225° as thats what it likes best. I changed the flow rate from 0.95 to 1.05 and it seems to have helped abit. Just wild being a $1,200 printer brand new and its that badily out. And I'm even using thier filament.
@@FluffyDiceCubes I haven't tried many of their filaments. I've had good luck with the Hyper PLA. I'm trying their ASA right now. I'm still not sure if it's me or the filament. I have some Polymaker ASA arriving tomorrow so I can compare. Have you tried other brands of filament?
@pushingplastic7445 haven't tried another one just yet but you think thier brand they sell would work. That or thier printer would be kinda close to calibrated. I'm still new to this hobby but I'm learning pretty quick. I still have to do more testing
@@FluffyDiceCubes Understood. But keep in mind that the "Hyper" series filament from Creality is designed to work great with the K1 machines, but will not do real well on the Ender machines. To print fast, you have to print at a higher temperature so the filament will flow faster and that's how they tailored the Hyper series. A lot of my prints are with Generic PLA, just over $10/spool. I do a temperature tower first to find what temperature looks the best. Then I dial in the flow rate.
To start with on my k1 in using esun pla hf dried and my flow was at 95 for first test and positive 5 was the best on the second one non were good so do I add 5 to 95 and put 100 cuz I did and it was trash
What about pass2?
@@pushingplastic7445 I selected 5 for pass two and none of them came out good they all had under extrusion
Thank you my friend
Hi, nice Vid. I downloaded the latest Version 5.1.1.9490 but after pass1 they do not ask for the number if I start pass2. How can this happen?
This video is for a previous version of Creality Print. The process has changed in 5.1. After doing the first pass, there is a little math involved, you update the settings and then do pass 2. I have a video for the updated method ruclips.net/video/caMCAk57SJY/видео.html
before the test should my flow rate be at 100 percent or just .95 like the generic profiles in creality print?
did my test and found out 5 and -1 the smoothest. But the formula said +100 but the generic petg profile has it on .95
Should i do 5+(-1)+ 100? or 5+(-1)+ 95?
thanks
@@ketchup_techwhat version of Creality Print are you using?
@ the latest one 5.1
@@ketchup_tech The video you watched was for Creality Print 4. I do have an updated video for version 5.1 on my channel. Rather than make you watch that, the formula for CP 5.1 is: Old_flow x (100 + the modifier) / 100. In your case your modifier is 5 + (-1) = 4, the formula is 0.95 x (100 + 4) / 100 =0.988, Your new flow rate for 5.1 is 0.988 I hope this helps!
@ thanks!! Thats what i was thinking. Somewhat an oc about this lol. Thanks for validating.
Did Creality remove the calibration tab??? I do not have anything there
I hope not! I still have it on mine! You could try pressing the letter "C" on the keyboard to see if it activates the Calibration menu. I'm not near my computer as I'm responding but will definitely look into this!
I just checked and the Calibration drop down menu at the top of the screen is still there. But if you don't see it, try pressing the Alt+C keys on the keyboard. I am using the most current version of Creality Print, 4.3.8
@@pushingplastic7445 thank you for replying i will have to try that its so strange i see it on everyone elses but not mine. I just checked update earlier and i am already up to date.
@@JayEm16No problem, happy to do it. If you still don't have any luck, please post back and I'll dig as deep as I can. Good luck and thanks for taking the time to check out my channel!.
@@pushingplastic7445 sweet thank you very much and of course. I want to know more about how slicer works than just the basics. And want to fine tune my printer so your videos have been helpful thank you again i will reach out after i get chance to try what you said
thank you!
Thank you and thanks for watching! I'll be doing some more content with Creality Print!
Creality must use a different method for determining the optimal flow rate for specific materials, because the pre-set values are set to 3 significant figures, e.g. the pre-set flow rate for Generic ABS is 0.926. Also, when it worked in Creality Print Ver. 4.3, using the Pass 1, Pass 2 method to determine the flow rate adjustment value, based on an examination of the nine rectangular test tabs, is not as straight forward as it sounds, because printing the nine test tabs with a Standard 0,2 mm layer thickness gives a completely different result compared to printing with an Optimal 0.16 mm layer thickness.
Having to determine the optimal flow rate for every print profile available for every material seems to be a monumental task.
You'll want to dial in the flow for each material brand and type you use in order to get the best prints. Thanks for watching.
👍👍👍