Find Your 3d Printers MAX Output
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
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Knowing the max volumetric flow of your printers toolhead is necessary to know how fast you can push your printer. Today we will look at two methods to get this value. This will allow you to set a volumetric flow cap in the slicer which will help to prevent under extrusion.
Scale I Use (AFF):
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Stefan’s video on hotend benchmark:
• Easy Hotend Benchmark ...
Stefan's calibration tool:
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Soft Fever Slicer:
github.com/Sof...
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I just designed a new superlight assembly and wanted to test it out. This video was perfect, thanks man!
Cool 👍, update on yr findings. If it is coreXY please do the speed zig zag diagonally and compare to horizontally. CoreXY only use 1 motor for diagonal movement.
Awesome!! Hope the results are what you are wanting :)
Great video as always, just had someone asking about this yesterday so I linked them here. Playing it safe is a good bet. I used this test last week and broke the layers apart to measure thickness. What "looked good" measured noticably thinner than the section below it, so I ended up stepping down more than just eyeballing it would have gotten me.
That’s a great idea. Especially for verifying your parts won’t be weak from not enough filament being extruded. That route would definitely help you hone in on a more exact rate.
I am loving this slicer personally. Not having an x1c or p1p I hadn't really considered the Bambu studio slicer but being able to arrange my projects all in one file with multi plate support is honestly amazing. I also love using the Ellis printing guide for setting up printers and walking through everything for calibration it's been a big help klipperizing old printers or getting my new builds set up and printing great.
For big project having multiple plates set is sooo nice.
I used it recently when printing the P1P enclosure and it was a great help.
@ModBot I am using it now to print the stagetop game table and being able to lay out everything and get it all set for the project is so nice.
I have a few remarks:
1) IMO better to use not AutoSpeed setting but Filament - Advanced - Max volumetric flow. flow can be different for the same type of filament, even the same manuf. (see CNC kitchen video for that)
2) The missing part for me with this method - I don't see how much underextrusion changes prints that are more than 1 perimeter shell. On the shell it might look fine but in reality underextrusion is there and slicer "perimeter fusion" math won't work anymore. Say Hi to separated walls. And back to #1 if it looks fine on single wall in green there is no guarantee it will work in black due to different characteristics of filament.
I wouldn't be so picky about it usually but I do mass production of parts and you want to do it fast. So I fine tuned everything for semi-transparent orange PLA. And when I changed to black PLA it was underperforming and a batch had to be scrapped, slowed down and reprinted. If you near your printers capabilities every subtle difference in filament will pop up. Either test more or make like 70% of printable flowrate your max volumetric speed
You are doing 3D printing, if you want to do mass production create a mold instead. Unless you do one offs and only small batches which again is not mass production. You can´t really do mass production, not comparable to most other methods. Maybe it is your definition of mass production is you produce 1000 parts or so.
@@sierraecho884Prusa would beg to differ
@@ThatOneStopSign Yes because they want to sell printers, not produce parts. No one really uses FDM printing for mass production for several reasons. Unless your definition of mass production is 200 psc. or something low like that. Believe me I am an automotive engineer and I do design parts for mass production.
I love 3d printing, but I'm not a nerd for it.
As such, I truly appreciate you needs! You save me a ton of time and time is money snd.... sanity.
Haha agreed it does take a slightly crazy person and I am happy to do it.
I have a standard flow Dragon with a 0.8mm CHT nozzle. And I was quite surprised that thing is pushing 34mm3/s pretty easily. It's quite amazing what we can do now with easily accessible parts.
Great to see more Mercs out in the wild in these kind of videos. Such a fantastic upgrade/conversion for the ender 5!
I have really been enjoying mine. Will have a full video on it at some point
@@ModBotArmy Nice to see the Merc as well! Was my first big step up to ender 5 +. Then I made a kinematic bed remix of the ratrig vcore 3 and finally added the vzbot gantry!
@@joseholguin436 seeing the mercury project I now really regret buying twotrees sapphire pro instead of an ender 5. Pretty much no community and everything except the toolhead is unmoddable.
@@igorordecha I have a buddy I’m going to NOT tell about the Mercury, because it will just cause him to be unhappy about his purchase last year.
The only reason I swapped from Cura is because there wasn't a max volumetric flow cap.
It makes slicing SO much easier.
I am shocked that with all of the features they have they did not add that. Based on the replies I found on it they have it on their list but it doesnt seem like a priority.
@@ModBotArmyMe too. This is a really basic parameter.
I use a simple 1 mm cube to Check the z offset. I take a pen and write Z on the top then measure it with a caliper. The paper trick to adjust it can be slightly off because of the thicknesses of different paper.
Would love to see an end to end settings video of how to make an Ender 3 S1 Pro take full advantage of Klipper using Orca, im getting very lost on what the best settings are for quality and speed.
How dare you write my name with a PH!
Great video though. Wasn't aware of Orca Slicer!
😅 Going to blame it on new dad brain ❤️. It’s an awesome slicer and both adds new features as well as ports other slicer features very quickly.
Ooooh the cute StePHan xD
This is very useful, as it helped me to dial in my v02 for better speeds... Thank you for making this!
Wow, Great video as always 👍
Great find!!
Thanks for sharing your expirence with all of us 👍 😀
Thank you Asger!!
Thank you ive needed a video on this
Hi! Would you mind sharing the toolhead assembly? I want to modify/print one of my own for a custom machine and yours is really close to my needs. Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you for the support 🙌
Thanks for this video! I am having a hard time calibrating the .6 and .8 Nozzles on an X1 Carbon.
Looks like the default profiles are no good for anything other than .4.
Could you do a tutorial on the VFA test on Orca Slicer as well?
You rock! Hope you and your family are doing well. 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you NickNick!! We are doing awesome. Typing this from the couch with Erin and Jackson :)
I have been meaning to do this for my new FLSun V400, but I can't find a delta compatible version of the CnC Kitchen web app
You should be able to use the CNC kitchen version. Just make your bed area smaller so that is would only cover a center square portion of the round bed and give yourself enough of a safe area from the edges :)
The calibration line is nice however you can also increase your temp and thus increase flow rate, this has to be tested with cooling again, so it´s not quet the one click solution.
Awesome video, thank you!
I have a question: How do you convert max volumetric flow rate into an ideal outer perimiter feed rate? I think i've found my max acceleration and volumetric flow, but i'm not quite sure how i should then use that value to tune my perimiter speed in my slicer
I've seen people printing those blobs but never knew why. Will have to get a scale and try these tests. Upgraded my IDEX with a pair of Dragon UHF hotends not long ago so have been curious what they can do. Thanks !
Im getting 32mm3/s from a regular hf with abs and around 40 with the uhf. Abs at 260 degrees, so nothing outstanding i would say, especially since its a ceramic heater which you need to run a bit hotter anyway due to its thermistor location.
32mm3/s is pretty damn good. I have a feeling the hardest part with trying to hit those top speeds is cooling the part quick enough. Especially with overhangs.
@@ModBotArmy yeah, overhangs are always the bottleneck. I even installed twin berd air pumps on the super racer to keep up as fans are not enough, maybe a 4028 axial would be sufficient, but there is no space on a delta for axial fans. But increasing line width from 0,4 to 0,5 helps a lot
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 Chilled air from the AC up next ... xD
I've been loving the soft fever fork, now orca slicer, and plan on using that as my main slicer for now
almost at the end of the video, we can see a bit of filament been dragged by the revo nozzle and almost all my prints starts the same. Do you just leave it or you always way to remove it?
I run both a prime line and skirt on all of prints so I typically just leave it. The majority of the time it comes off on one of the two. If you are there and it is large you can always grab it but I rarely pull it off.
I don't feel comfortable changing start gcode in Flow test generator. Does anyone know what settings are for Bambu Lab X1C?
great ,, thanks 👍
Yeah, but how do I make my printer print at that flow rate? I'm getting like 40mm^3/s on the test but no matter what I do, I only print at like 3mm^3/s
flow rate test sets layer height automatically, id like to do the test t a specified layer height
One thing I do not understand is that PursaSlicer and others seem to have the Max Vol Flow linked to the filament. But it's actually linked to the hot end and the extruder more than anything. So I do the test with a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.8mm nozzle and I get very different results. It seems to be hard to save these settings in the slicer.
Because each filament flows differently.
As for the different results. OrcaSlicer uses the thickest line width and layer height combination. So, different nozzle with change the flow rate as well.
It´s both. The hot end determines the heat output and the surface to the filament, so does the nozzle but the filament also plays a role in taking in that heat. You can heat PLA way easier since it get´s soft at around 60°C already but you will need much more temp to do the same with PETG. So it´s both parameters.
Next video idea: kingroon+klipper
hi man how did you get the mercury into orca slicer printer selection ?
Soooo I understand the flow test that cnc made... but i dont understand how i can graph it and put it into excell to get useful info in front of me that i can use? And should i be using my extrusion muliplier or set that back to default (1) .. mines currently tuned at .92 but idk if i should keep that tuned for this test
Cool! Can someone with CoreXY do some speed n quality test with diagonally aligned zig zag patterns compare with horizontal. I learn that CoreXY only run 1 motor diagonally. Any effects? Thanks 💕
Im 8 months late to the party but well here i am with my black week buy called neptune 4. Just by logical thinking i came to what you are describing in the video. But with that there is a new topic on my plate now. Well seems like for not all but for many typical prints 0.2 layers are fastest now with capped flowrate. I tried everything i could to get 0.28 layer heights to spit out faster prints but its impossible since you will exceed that 0.4 nozzle quite quickly.
So the next question is how to savely overheat filament. PLA often goes to 220°c(per manufacturers advice). I could go greatly above it if i push it through fast enough. But how fast do i need to push it through so that the filament doesnt burn itself down in the nozzle? In the end the filament would still only go through with 220° but the nozzle has idk 250° or sth. Is there any good way to push the nozzle temps without trial and error? How do i make sure that speeds/flow are maintained so that the filament doesn't overheat in the nozzle?
i just finshed my ender5+ zerog could you share your orca profile? and how did you get the zerog build plate thank you
Isn't that flow rate highly dependend on filament and temperature? Surely my ABS filament flows slower than my PLA filament, and surely the ABS filament flows easier at 230° than at 210°?
Of course, you need to run a test for each type of filament. You then need to deal with the changes to due to temperature and the effect of different nozzles.
Can you please post link for the scale?
would love it too :)
Any scale that can do 0.01g is fine
amzn.to/3n3Wl8H will add to description 😊
Good video but I guess if this isn't something that matters in Cura then I don't know how I would implement it, as I use Cura exclusively. Maybe they'll implement it in the future?
I hope that they do implement it. That being said finding you max flow rate is still valuable. Cura will let you check volumetric flow in your sliced file on the preview page so you can use it to verify you are not trying to output more than your hotend is capable of.
So each line on the print equals 1 step or 1/2 step. He has no wiki for this test and I'm confused with how to measure. I understand the starting and ending flow rates. The 0.5 step is throwing me off. Thanks man.. love your channel.
One. Like told in the video
Each line was a full step with set at 0.5. It was also a bit confusing to me. I changed the value a few times and resliced but the 0.5 default is the easiest to follow since it aligns with the notches generated on the side of the print.
Thanks
Great video, very informative! Question for you, how did you quick change the color of the model when you are previewing it in OrcaSlicer? I saw you do it in the video and I have been trying to find setting haha.
You just have to click on the color swatch for the filament. So on the left side above the slicer settings there will be between 1-4 filaments listed (depending on your printer and if you are using an AMS). Click or double click on any of the small color squares and you can set any color :)
Everytime I try to use the max flow rate in OrcaSlicer I get an error saying Line Width Too Small. Does anyone else have that problem?
How do you install this? The git page says to extract then run the orca-slicer.exe but that file doesn't exist in the zip I downloaded
Great video Modbot. What flow ranges should I do for a Pheatus Dragon High Flow hotend?
Thanks.
They say online that the rate is supposed to be ~35 to 38. So you'll want your end to be higher than that. The rest is really up to you. Start with whatever you're comfortable with. Just keep in mind that at some point the single-thickness wall is going to become unstable and you'll start getting artifacts just from its weight and the action of the new filament getting placed, so you might want to do it in segments. For example, start at 18 and go to 26. If it's still pretty much perfect, then do 26 to 34. Then 34 to 40.
great video as always! I also had a question about CURA slicer; where do we adjusted the volumtric flow rates in CURA? I recently picked up the bondtech CHT but acutally utilizing it with CURA has been a challenge as I dont know where to adjust the settings. Prusa slicer is straight forward with the setting but I dont feel like mastering a whole entire new slicer...
wow ok I should've finished the video, that sucks such a vital settings like max volumetric flow rate is not a setting...
Yeah it looks like the devs dont find it quite as valuable which I find odd. You can still see the max volumetric flow in the preview window but not being able to set a cap is a bummer. I have a feeling they may end up adding it with time.
Wouldn't too much filament being pushed through lead to overextrusion, not under? Refering to @0:14 or so.
It's not too much filament being pushed, but too much being requested by the slicer (attempted to be pushed), i.e. more filament than the hotend (or extruder) can handle (edit: a reason can be that the hotend just can't melt the plastic fast enough). So if the slicer moves at a fast speed (or thick layer height) and thinks 20 mm3/s are being extruded, but the hotend can only do 14 mm3/s as in this case with the Revo, you will have underextrusion (basically missing plastic worth 6 mm3/s).
@@ThomasS17 Oh thank you so much for that explanation, makes perfect sense now. I'm only a few months into my 3D printing 'journey' and still have so much to learn.
@@slothgirl2022 No worries, glad it helped! There's a lot to learn, especially early on, but you'll learn it eventually, it just takes time. I'm about a year in and still learn new things (almost) every day.
Great video!
Does the Max Flow rate calibration have to be done for every filament I use or is it more for the machine's hot end?
From what I've seen so far, I would say the number is indeed related to the filament (and in Orca Slicer, the setting is found under filament, not under machine), but I don't imagine that two different rolls of the same material (for example, PLA black and PLA white) will have a huge difference. You can probably get away with just doing it per TYPE of filament (1 setting for all PLA, a different setting for all PETG, etc).
At least for filament type. PLA is different from PETG for example. The max. flow of PLA can be almost double to PETG. You might have to tune it with different PLA filaments as well, but the difference should not be too hight. If your max flow rate is e.g. 30mm³/s for PLA I would choose 28 or 26 and call it a day.
i know this is a silly question but if i set the "step" value to 1mm form 0.5 how much is that in mm3? 2mm3? so i multiply by 2 the number of lines plus the default value i set of starting point ?
No calculations required, it does all the work for you. "Step" is how much the amount changes each time there's a line. So, as an example, if you have it set to start at 8, with a step of 1, and you notice degradation after the 5th line (5 increases of 1), your degradation is at 13 mm³ so you'll want to set it to 12 mm³ in your slicer. If you start at 8, and have a step of 0.5, then the 10th line would be the same 13 mm³. But if you notice it looks great between line 9 and 10, then you can set it to 12.5 mm³ instead of 12.
Another way to look at it: the space before the first line is the same number you set as the start. Each space after that goes up by your "step" setting. Counting the spaces between the lines, count by whatever your step is set to, only counting the "good" faces. With a step of 1, you would count 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. If your step is 0.5 you would count 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12. Whatever number you stop counting on, that's the number you input into the Max Volumetric Speed setting. No need for a calculator, just count them.
I'm confused. A Revo + Orbiter only gets to 13mm3/s? I was considering upgrading my stock Sapphire Plus hotend because with Stefan's method it was dropping at 16mm3/s. I was actually expecting somewhat better from the Revo. I guess an old-school volcano-block and -nozzle might be the best-buy then, even when it doesn't offer the easy nozzle-change ...
Yeah Revo is not a high flow hotend at all. Other than the abrasive nozzles not being available that is it’s biggest draw back. I am hoping a high flow heater core is released but if you are wanting high flow right now Revo is not the answer.
Depends a ton on filament. For example natural filament gets you around 15% more flow compared to colored one. Or formfutura volcano pla flows 50% better than regular formfutura pla.
Also you shouldn't forget the revos construction. The nozzle itself is on pressed onto the heater with a spring and the thermistor position is different from the stock mk8 heater block. I would be curious how much of a temperature difference this will have. I would go that far to say 220 on a revo is around 200-205 on a v6/mk8.
You might want to look at the rapido. I really like them, the only reason im not buying one for my v0 is that the hotend would overwhelm the psu. They come with a copper and a steel nozzle, so thats already 40 dollars in nozzles in the package. Of course a volcano gets you more flow per money spent, but i went against the volcano on my sapphire as i would loose build volume and the sp3 isn't exactly large
What filament ?
Did you make your own profile for the zero g in orca slicer?
I did not Turtle from the ZeroG team did. I am not sure if they have been posted publicly but I would hop into the ZeroG Discord to check.
10 months later and Cura still doesn't have a Max Volumetric flow rate setting... Unbelievable
Is the formulas that each slicer uses to determine volumetric flow the same? if they were different it would make it hard to switch. not a big deal if you only use one, but sometimes there are features that one has that another doesn't and vice versa
In theory they should be the same as known values should be consistent, ie filament diameter, nozzle diameter, line width, and layer height. If extrusion multiplier is tuned in and consistent then the maximum speed at which all of those remain the same can be found. Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer(formally known as SoftFever), SuperSlicer, and PrusaSlicer are all based on the same thing so there will probably be very little difference between them. Cura is the big outlier here, lets face it very few are going to pay for the subpar Simplify3D, at this time does not natively support setting max volumetric flow to automatically limit print speed.
There is also the issue of most of the popular off the shelf printers are limited more in other ways and wont hit max flow on a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm layer height. Start upping nozzle size and layer height and they may in fact get close to it.
Ultimately if your slicer of choice does not use max flow to limit speed then you will just need to set those limits manually after some testing. The faster we print the more the little things matter to making a good looking and functional item.
@@abeardedbucket yeah I started to run into under extrusion with .8mm nozzle and big layers
In theory max volumetric flow should be max volumetric flow. I have used it in SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer/SoftFever and it has worked fine. As long as you dont have other things drastically changed like flow in one slicer over another there (should) not be an issue.
It´s just volume over time, it´s pretty basic for every slicer.
What is that part cooling duct? Been looking for one that comes around from the back.
This is the modified EVA 2.4. It is made by the ZeroG team for the Mercury 1.1. The duct portion is called Petsfang.
@@ModBotArmy brilliant. Thank you! Love the channel!
On Windows, there is no option for 'calibration' in Bambu Studio. No way to do the max volumetric speed test....
It's in the fork of bambu slicer, now called orca slicer
Can you please direct me to the files for your filament holder? I am nearing the end of my Mercury/Hydra build and totally forgot that I need to get plastic into the thing.
I ended up swapping it out for the spool holder on the voron trident. I didn’t like the weight of the spools on the top frame. Here is the link though to the one in this video: github.com/ZeroGDesign/UserMods/tree/main/Mercury_One/ZeroG/Spool_holder
@@ModBotArmy Thank you!
You'd have to increase temperature as the flow increases. So you potentially didn't hit the max unless that is tested as well.
To an extent this is true. However, printing hotter also means you need additional cooling to compensate. Also, at a certain point pumping heat into these materials can cause other problems. When testing flow rate I don’t like to go higher than a range of 20c. I wouldn’t go above 230 for PLA.
@@ModBotArmy my Bambu needs about 235 on turbo for pla. Default is 220 for generic. Going to try this test out tomorrow though. The material may not actually be reaching nozzle temperature as it's coming out so fast.
@@blaskotron their profiles are tuned. That aux fan is how they get away with cooling quick enough.
@@ModBotArmy Did the tests. At 220 C I got 25mm, 230 27mm, 240 28mm - all without changing cooling. It could flow faster but I believe that's where the quality would start to drop due to insufficient cooling. It seems the sagging corners represent insufficient cooling and gaps represent insufficient flow/nozzle temp. These are all MUCH faster than the stock profile of 12 mm for generic pla.
Step 1: tediously calibrate flow rate
Step 2: ignore that and print as fast as possible 😅
Usually step 1 goes wrong, so the rest is irrelevant.
Keeping flow rate in flat zone (100..99%) creates better prints than opting to "no-fail" zone where under extrusion is significant.
The calibration tools available make 1 much easier now. I have had really good results with finding that cap and setting it as a failsafe in the slicer :)
@@ModBotArmySadly temperature is missing as a parameter. I suppose you already dialed in your temp for that specific filament before.
Do one has to perform the temperature tower calibration before or after the maximum volumetric speed test?
Before. The volumentric speed depends on the temp. The higher the tempo the higher the flow. So I would argue you should find the ideal temp before and then do the volumetric calibration, maybe somebody else has a different opinion, I would like to hear it.
@@sierraecho884 thanks, that makes sense. And regarding Flow and PA Calibration, First Flow or First pa Calibration?
@@slomo4056 They all depend on temp too. The hotter the filament the lower the viscosity, so a more "runny" filament.
Usually you don´t need to adjust your flow much, mine is always at 100%. As long as the extruder system is tuned properly it should be fine. You can fine tune that later maybe if you see some parts being underexztruded (this is most common because people calibrate wrong in 90% of all cases with the single wall method or some other nonsense). PA calibration I would do last because now you have your temp, your flow, your speeds all set and want to see what´s the "advanced" pressure changes do I need for the given speed, pressure, temp, material.
Just don´t create a master thesis out of this, it does not have to be complicated to function well, heck I would argume most complicated stuff does not function well because you keen introducing more stuff that can go wrong.
I would start with a temp tower, it prints rather slow and show how the filament behaves during x temp. You will see what your overhangs look like, if the filament droops and how well the layer bond is. For most filaments the band is rather large. For example I print my PLA at 220°C can I print it at 230°C ? Sure but cooling is more difficult and overhamngs droop al little more. Can I print it at 210°C ? Yeah I can but the layer bond gets weaker. You will have tolerances in the system anyways, so while the printer runs your temps will change between 215-225. That´s totally fine.
You can then test for Extrusion multiplier so see how much flow you need. usually ±1%, so 99%-101% ca.
Then you can test for retraction (you don´t need to do this for every filament, this highly depends on the hardness of material, TPU is soft and will deform more than PLA which is very hard and brittle. Mine works in about 0,5mm so I have my value set a 1mm and call it day.
Max. Flow rate is important, one of the most important tests probably. If you find out your PLA looks okay at say 22mm³/s set it so 20mm³/s and you are fine. always leave a little bit of headroom for tolerances.
And then jst print some parts and see how they turn out, you then adjust on a per part basis.
If you print accurate parts where holes need to be aligned etc, so not only figurines you should also calibrate for XY hole compensation XY contour compensation and material shrinkage.
@@sierraecho884 thanks for your great explanation! It is very helpful
@@slomo4056 You are welcome. The most common mistake beginners do when tuning their printer is they tune it to the absolute limit without leaving an headroom for any kind of problems or tolerances AND people tune extrusion multiplier wrong because they confuse two parameters. Dimensional accuracy and extrusion multiplier. They print a cube and measure the dimensions of the layer width and the overall dimensions then they REDUCE the extruded amount because of course the cube is slighly larger, it is physically impossible to print 0.4mm lines with a 0.4mm nozzle. so now they tune in 90% flow test again do 95% and usually leave it somewhere there, which means yeah your cube looks nice (has weak layer bonds but who tests for that right ?) But everything else they prent come out underextruded.
So what you do instead is print small flat objects 5-6mm high with 95% infill and see how the top layer comes out. Do you see gaps (under extruson) or ridges (over extrusion). Forget about geimetrical accuracy for now. Once you have dialed that in and your top surface is smooth and everything is withot gaps ONLY THEN you tune for accuracy. Simply print small objects about 5mm, so like a 5mm staurcase and measure the blocks also print holes and measure, then compensate for it in XY compensation that´s what it is there for. And now you will get precision infill precision sized small, very small objects. Fo parts which are say 200mm long you need to factor in material shrinkage. It can be very small for PLA about 0,3% (which translates fo a failure of 0,6mm on a 200mm parts) or bigger for PETG, ASA etc. PA can be really bad with 1,5% which means if you porint some fixture with holes, your hole position will be off by 2mm or so.
Never confuse extrusion multiplier with geometrical accuracy. Your laver are usually 20% or up to 200% thicker than your nozzle size, they have to otherwise there would be no Squaish and therefore not Z layer adhesion, it is physically impossible to print 0.4mm wide lines with a 0.4mm nozzle.
Personally my course draft layer witdh with my 0.4mm nozzle is 0.8mm. So I can print single wall object which are very stong with only 1 perimeter of 0.8mm instead of 2 perimeters (double the travel movements) with 0.42mm line width.
ZeroG Mercury One? Yay or nah?
2 thumbs up from me. I did the Mercury 1.1 and Hydra. Hydra adds a lot of cost too it as you at that point are only keeping frame and psu. I would start with the 1.1 conversion and see if you feel you want to upgrade the bed. Ender 5+ being supported on both sides is a much better start than the cantilever bed of the 5/5 pro. Will have a full video.
@@ModBotArmy thanks for the reply and the heads up on the Hydra aspect. The printer looks great! Looking forward to the video and starting the project for myself.
Now called OrcaSlicer rather than softFever.
Yeah they just changed it 😂. Pretty funny timing. Will be nice for it to have a bit more of its own identity.
@@ModBotArmy Ha. Yeah typical.
I’m shocked you didn’t even mention material type. Almost have more impact than the hotend it self. PET-G only half of PLA. That’s why most slicer (also) keeps this in the filament setting
If you find setting up orca slicer too daunting then teaching tech has a web app that kind of does the same thing. Just an idea.
To make this process a lot more fun do the prints with dark brown filament and then once all the blond have been weighed simply discard them into a chocolate chip bag and leave it in the cupboard. It might take a little bit of time but when you hear the very distinctive crunch you'll know the joke is working
Cura devs have decided not to implement this feature. Bad move IMO.
Both cura and ultimaker have fallen off the face of the map. Ultimaker used to have a great AMS But it couldn't change filaments in between Prints.
Thanks!
Thank you for the support 😊