Thank you for posting this video. I am about to replace the master cylinder on my 1964 MGB. It has help me understand what is require to do the replacement. My car is right hand drive other than that my car looks like your car. I bought it from the original owner in 1986, it was British Racing Green. After replacing the interior seat covers, paneling and carpet, I had it painted Red, It is the same color as yours. I still use the original top and tonneau cover, plus I have the work manual, show room booklets and tuning manuals. I love this little car. Thanks Again, Rich
Thank you for your video, I to have a 67 MGB and find following your video very easy as it nearly always matches my car. I have a simple question. After following your video, I have dismantled the Master Cylinder and added the new seal kit. Everything done nice and smoothly, but how do you get the rubber boot over the push rod and past the washer and clip.
Hi Thanks for your comments. The boot will stretch over the clevis end with a bit of brute force. There is a feeling that the rubber boot will split doing this, but it does stretch, just needs a bit of persuasion. Cheers👍
I find it easy to bleed on the bench and fit complete, just fit rear banjo using bulkhead bung. leave over night with pedal press down with stick and it will bleed itself.
Not sure which cover you are referring to, but the heater was painted silver by the previous owner. I am considering repainting the heater box back to the original black. Cheers
Thank you for this video. I recently became the caretaker of a 1964 MGB which had not been driven for quite a while. After the first few drives I noticed that the master brake cylinder is leaking along the push rod. So I assume that I have to replace the seal kit. Your explanation on how to disassemble and reassemble it all will be very helpful. Unfortunately has the leaking brake fluid damaged some of the paint below and rust is starting. Do you have a recommendation on how to best remove this fluid and how to prep the sheet metal before spraying some primer and paint on it?
I'm no expert with painting but I would wash brake fluid off with a detergent and rinse well. I would then treat the area with a rust converter then apply an etch primer. After this you can apply whatever paint system you intend to use. Cheers
Hi The seal kit and clevis kit was purchased on ebay Part No. 180-875 GRK1026 for the seal kit and Part No.181-690 17H7985 for the clevis kit. They can also be purchased from Moss Europe
@@samuelchung7783 I had the same problem with mine. I'm still considering purchasing a brand new set of calipers, maybe in the next couple of months I'll do that. Cheers
@@albabmg hey BMG, i finally got around to dealing with the Master Cylinder for the brakes. I'm having (a lot) of trouble trying to get the darn box off! how did you do it? I can't seem to find any references for the early type (separate clutch and brake cylinder) in the hard to reach square box! any help would be much appreciated.
@@samuelchung7783 Hi Samuel only too glad to help if I can. What are the boxes you are referring too? I'll try and explain the procedure I undertook. 1st up I removed the Brake and Master cylinder cover, there are 4 screws on the cover flange which need to be removed. After removal this will expose the clutch and brake pedals and clevis attachments. Remove the clevis and pin then disassemble the brake pedal and let it fall into the foot well of the car. Undo the brake pipe at the rear of the brake master cylinder. Undo the upper bolt of the master cylinder where it attaches to the pedal box, this bolt is easy to access. The lower bolt is the difficult one to get to but it can be done. You can get a spanner in to it. Rotate the front bolt with a socket and with an open ended spanner access the rear bolt until the spanner engages the nut. The spanner will be resting on the clutch master, that is how tight it is. Once the two bolts are removed you will have to twist and manipulate the Brake Master until it can be lifted over the pedal box. Also important is to match mark the rear banjo fitting to the cylinder, this will align the brake pipe for later attachment. There is an alternative for Clutch/Master cylinder removal. There is a rubber bung behind the cylinders located on the bulkhead. This bung can be removed which will give you access from inside the car near the pedals. Hope this helps.
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Thank you for posting this video. I am about to replace the master cylinder on my 1964 MGB. It has help me understand what is require to do the replacement. My car is right hand drive other than that my car looks like your car. I bought it from the original owner in 1986, it was British Racing Green. After replacing the interior seat covers, paneling and carpet, I had it painted Red, It is the same color as yours. I still use the original top and tonneau cover, plus I have the work manual, show room booklets and tuning manuals. I love this little car. Thanks Again, Rich
Hope the video helps you with your Master Cylinder. You shouldn't have any problems it's not that difficult a job. Cheers
Thank you for your video, I to have a 67 MGB and find following your video very easy as it nearly always matches my car. I have a simple question. After following your video, I have dismantled the Master Cylinder and added the new seal kit. Everything done nice and smoothly, but how do you get the rubber boot over the push rod and past the washer and clip.
Hi Thanks for your comments. The boot will stretch over the clevis end with a bit of brute force. There is a feeling that the rubber boot will split doing this, but it does stretch, just needs a bit of persuasion. Cheers👍
I find it easy to bleed on the bench and fit complete, just fit rear banjo using bulkhead bung. leave over night with pedal press down with stick and it will bleed itself.
What paint color did you use on the cover and heater?
Not sure which cover you are referring to, but the heater was painted silver by the previous owner. I am considering repainting the heater box back to the original black. Cheers
@@albabmg The pedal box cover.
@@aggiebq86 Both the pedal box cover and the air filter boxes have a chrome finish. Both were on the car when I purchased it. Cheers
Thank you for this video. I recently became the caretaker of a 1964 MGB which had not been driven for quite a while. After the first few drives I noticed that the master brake cylinder is leaking along the push rod. So I assume that I have to replace the seal kit. Your explanation on how to disassemble and reassemble it all will be very helpful. Unfortunately has the leaking brake fluid damaged some of the paint below and rust is starting. Do you have a recommendation on how to best remove this fluid and how to prep the sheet metal before spraying some primer and paint on it?
I'm no expert with painting but I would wash brake fluid off with a detergent and rinse well. I would then treat the area with a rust converter then apply an etch primer. After this you can apply whatever paint system you intend to use. Cheers
@@albabmg Thank you for answering my question. Highly appreciated.
hey BMG, can you post a link to the kit you used?
Hi The seal kit and clevis kit was purchased on ebay Part No. 180-875 GRK1026 for the seal kit and Part No.181-690 17H7985 for the clevis kit. They can also be purchased from Moss Europe
@@albabmg thanks! I will be on the lookouts for those! Currently restoring my brakes. I can't open the calipers they're rusted through :( )
@@samuelchung7783 I had the same problem with mine. I'm still considering purchasing a brand new set of calipers, maybe in the next couple of months I'll do that. Cheers
@@albabmg hey BMG, i finally got around to dealing with the Master Cylinder for the brakes. I'm having (a lot) of trouble trying to get the darn box off! how did you do it? I can't seem to find any references for the early type (separate clutch and brake cylinder) in the hard to reach square box! any help would be much appreciated.
@@samuelchung7783 Hi Samuel only too glad to help if I can. What are the boxes you are referring too? I'll try and explain the procedure I undertook. 1st up I removed the Brake and Master cylinder cover, there are 4 screws on the cover flange which need to be removed. After removal this will expose the clutch and brake pedals and clevis attachments. Remove the clevis and pin then disassemble the brake pedal and let it fall into the foot well of the car. Undo the brake pipe at the rear of the brake master cylinder. Undo the upper bolt of the master cylinder where it attaches to the pedal box, this bolt is easy to access. The lower bolt is the difficult one to get to but it can be done. You can get a spanner in to it. Rotate the front bolt with a socket and with an open ended spanner access the rear bolt until the spanner engages the nut. The spanner will be resting on the clutch master, that is how tight it is. Once the two bolts are removed you will have to twist and manipulate the Brake Master until it can be lifted over the pedal box. Also important is to match mark the rear banjo fitting to the cylinder, this will align the brake pipe for later attachment. There is an alternative for Clutch/Master cylinder removal. There is a rubber bung behind the cylinders located on the bulkhead. This bung can be removed which will give you access from inside the car near the pedals. Hope this helps.