I THOUGHT I knew how to hang a pre-hung door and have done many in my time. I followed Tom's procedures here and hung 3 Interior doors in less than an hour - they hang perfectly!! Thanks Tom!!
I'm right there with you - I almost feel inclined to share this video with my old boss who taught me how to hang doors - the part about tacking the shims prior to installation is honestly a revelation to me
Same. I always used to shim the hinge side with the door in place. What a waste of time. Though I don't own a 7' level, so gonna fix that or use one of my 4-ft's attached to a 2x4. And will be using reference lines henceforth.
This man is about the only person I can listen to and completely understand what he's saying. Seriously. Thank you. I'm refurbishing my dad's house and am doing a pretty good job....because of these many videos. Yippie.
0:55 Floor is not level, so mark a level reference line across rough opening 1:15 Measure to determine jamb length 1:30 Measure and mark jamb for cutting 3:00 Cut jamb to proper length for level installation 3:15 Shim so trimmer studs are plumb 4:00 Fit door in rough opening using reference lines 4:50 Screw hinge side jamb to trimmer stud 5:30 Shim to level Striker side of jamb 6:00 Close door to check reveal, then shim and screw striker side jamb 6:30 Install door casings
For those who are confused: At 1:58, tommy says that his line is at 58-1/4” on the hinge side. He is referring to the level line on the Sheetrock NOT where he marked the door jamb. He measures 7/16” down from 58-1/4” to account for tile and thinset and marks there so he actually marks the jamb at 57-13/16” from the bottom. He simply measures from the top of the jamb on the hinge side (21” to line on jamb) in order to find the measurement necessary in order to level the header. Then, he transfers that same 21” to the striker side which will give him a level header. Since the hinge side had a shorter measurement, he must cut the hinge side to fit. Hope this helps, it is definitely confusing in the video.
57 13/16, then since it was an inch out of level, 59 minus 57 13/16 is 1 3/16, but since the striker side was a quarter already still from the 59 1/4, 1/4 of that 7/16 is equaling it out, so really, a 3/16 of that 1 3/16 had to be taken into account for as extra height to be removed, so he only would've cut exactly an inch off, right? That would've given a perfect floor margin? Or is the original door height - the 7/16 to be 57 13/16 get transferred to the other jamb, and just cuts the inch out of level off. This is all assuming the gap on the striker side still has a 7/16 margin, when it didn't it was only a quarter, but where does that come into play?
There's nothing explaining the margin that already exists between the threshold area, bottom of door and jamb on the side that needs to be longer. shouldn't that be a variable?
Recently, we replaced a 20 year old prehung, prefinished flush door because the previous door had a cat door cut into it. To our surprise the new replacement door (32”x80”) had the exact same hinge hinge placement as the old one. We originally planned to remove the oak trim from both sides and remove the old jam from the frame. However, all we had to do was to remove the old door at the hinges and reinstall the new door with the old matching hinges. The door fit like a glove! You’ve gotta luv industry standards that stand the test of time.
I've been doing interior doors the hard way my boss taught me. This video was pure enlightenment. My old boss used to get mad if I used reference lines. Turns out I had the right ideas and intentions and was scared away from it.
My dad built our house with help from his friends. He's just like Tom when it comes to carpentry and plumbing. The down side to me he's just like Chef Ramsay if you don't understand it the first time.
Great tips. Concise and to the point. Out of about a dozen videos I saw; Tom's the only one who actually plumbs and measures BEFORE drilling and setting jamb; what a pro. And thanks for the tip :)
I've been in the Bizz for almost 30 years, new houses. Trim/doors first then tile. Leveling the floor is the flooring guys job. Better to have a level door to begin with.
@@Gitarzan66 leveling the floor is the slab pourer's job. Problem is, we've become accustomed to their shoddy work. I dont mind doing it. It pays decent if its extreme enough to be a mud job. With flooring, I'm more concerned with the surface being flat than level. A significant distinction. In less severe cases, I charge $50/hour plus materials to screed thinset or leveling compound.
That's why I never learned anything as a kid. My grandpa would just do all the work and then say, "You got it, right?" I didn't have it, but I love him anyways. Thankfully there's RUclips now.
@@roberthughes2687 You might think that but reality is different than theory. The seasoned pros make it look easy, overconfident amateurs don't know how bad they actually are.
Thank you! Thank you! After 3 generations of bedroom doors I have finally learned how to hang a door properly thanks to your video! Excellent tutorial! :)
While the door I was hanging was in a weird spot and probably would require a custom door to actually fit properly... I was able to follow this video and a few add ons to hang my first door that's plum and level! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise with us!
They are, I recently installed a door for a client man I've never seen a worst door opening really had to mess with the door jams to get it in, in the end it came out a bit tight
I "found" this video today - a very time appropriate because I have five doors to hang in my family room / guest room / bathroom area. You have saved me a whole lot of "figuring." Thank you.
This is the only video on RUclips that shows the proper way to hang a prehung door We use to snap level lines through miles of office interiors years ago to do the exact same thing 👍🏻🔨
Thank you!! We are putting doors in and have unlevel floors throughout this old house of ours. This video really helped us, we have watched it multiple times and pause it while we work on each step.
Not a total newbie but I’m lost at 1:58. 1. Why do you measure from the bottom of the door on one side and the bottom of the jam on the other? 2. How did you determine how much to cut off from the hinge side of the door? I understand you’re accounting for the unlevel floor and tile but the measurements are where I’m getting confused. Anyone else?
Here is what I'm assuming. He cut off the jam on the hinge side to leave the 17th inch for the tile. Since it just so happened that the jam on the handle side to the reference mark was 59 inches, he didn't need to cut. But if the floor was perfectly level, it wouldn't have been 59 inches, and he would have ended cutting off the same amount from the doorknob side that he did the Jam side. The floor was just really bad, so it made the example a little confusing.
Love all the episodes aired throughout the years! Wondering if you can do an episode demonstrating how to switch the hinges of an interior door to be on the inside of a room rather than the outside (wrong side in our fixer upper) of the room as well as the direction the door will then have to swing? Thank you for your ethics, good humor, sharing of soooooooooooo much knowledge and expertise! Much respect!
Tom the only thing I missed is how much did you trim off the hinge side jamb in this example? I know the two sides were off by 1" and you accounted for flooring but I lost how you came to a trimmed length. Thanks
The cheaper and faster way is to install the trim onto the front side of the door jamb before hanging up and nail the trim into the wall, then go in and shim and screw the jamb. It may be the C student way, but i got up 15 doors in a day that way. You would basically be using the trim on the door like the "quick door hanger" product.
How can you possibly do the trim first and get your reveal to be spot on?? This is NOT the better way to install in my opinion. If you want a professional/proper trim reveal, then you mark/measure your reveals, AFTER the door is installed to put on trim.
Split jam doors are typically done this way, but it doesn’t typically give you the best result as far as level goes and isn’t very adjustable. Doing it the way Tom does allows for a precise placement of the door. Nailing the casing might fly on production homes but will not work for high end custom homes.
@@billy9043 adjustable square set to 1/4 inch trace inside of pre-hung jamb on both sides of door. I dont condone pre-trimming any door but anything is doable
Great video. Good tips and step-by-step visual and verbal instructions. I put the laptop on pause for each step. Plumb and hung alone! Thank you Tom!!!
the old house is the man make learn understand very very simple thank you sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much for your valued videos that helped me very much
Nice and simple instructions. Watched different video and the guy recommended pounding in wall framing with sledge hammer if it wasn't level and I was like isn't that what the shims are for.
It’s only one inch out of level in that respective area. The whole subfloor is probably 6+ inches out of level if it drops just one in in a 2 foot span
Still gotta carefully remove the old door frame, but this looks easier than trying to replace a missing door in an old beat up frame. Got the new door ready to go, looking forward to the learning experience. Thanks for sharing!!
I’m working with the Carpenter who sort of understand this principle get it right in the end but it takes forever to hang the door this method is so fast and so much better I just hung 10 doors I wish I’d seen this video first
What is the point of cutting if you are shimming the striker side from the bottom. I'm an absolute newbie at home renovation, so this is all new to me.
Jambs are 1/2 inch longer than the door. You just can't cut off one inch from the jamb without making the door shorter. Look at the bottom of the door at 3:10 it was cut probably at an angle. They deleted this from the video. Why?
He should have cut the door to match the floor angle also. Otherwise it accentuates the out of level floor. I also wouldn't put screws through the door stops. These are Home Depot type of jambs with the stops milled in one piece with the jambs. I would prefer separate stops and to hide the nails/screws behind the stops. I would put screws through the hinges, and not the stops. It makes for more work. I measure the floor level and cut the jamb to fit flat in the floor as high as possible to avoid trimming the door if possible, but sometimes you have to, and it looks better when done if you match the floor to door gap evenly. Also, sometimes you cannot set a door perfectly plumb in an old house. It makes it look terrible. If the house is leaning, set the door to match the walls next to it.
So, this is pretty confusing and not well explained in the video. I calculated this out for over an hour, and my math is correct: - He adds 7/16" to 58 1/4" on hinge side. Hinge side jamb cut to the ref mark now on the jamb should be 58 11/16" in total length (remember we don't know how much he has to cut yet, just what length should be. Some people are saying subtract but no, at 58 1/4" the door would be flush to floor, take any more length off the jamb and game over) - We would want the strike side to be 59 11/16" due to 1" difference in floor height. - However, jamb ref point on striker side is only 59" in length to bottom of jamb. - This means that we're missing 11/16" from the jamb on the striker side. (He mentions in the video that "we're only missing 1/4" which is fine for tile." This is incorrect. Remember he added 7/16" for spacing at the bottom of the door, so we're using completely different ref marks at this point. We're not measuring on the door frame anymore, only the jamb) - Since ref marks are same on both sides, we now know that the uncut length on the hinge side is 59" also from the ref mark. - This means we need to cut 5/16" off of the hinge side jamb, assuming the jambs are the same length. - At this point, the hinge side would be resting on the floor and the striker side would be 11/16" off the floor and the ref marks on the jambs would match those on the frame. - If you wanted to add space to tile under on the hinge side, then you'd have to cut an additional 1/4", so instead of 5/16" cut off, it'd be 9/16" to cut off. Look at 3:09 in the video, no way in hell that is 7/16" from bottom of door to jamb. That's why when he shims the bottom of the striker side at 5:47 it looks way closer than 11/16" from jamb to floor.
I just got a job hanging doors. A coworker told me to watch you tube since I have not done this for 12 years. No body has had much success be fore me. The company before this worked for taught me to nail it on below the top hinge on a 1\2 inch block elevating for carpet with a 1\4 inch shim but not nailing the shim. Put the magnetic level on the hinges then put two nails above the bottom hinge with shims on top to level.look at the reveil of the sheet rock and spit the difference for sheetrock deceptively.easy right?.today was my third day when I realized the hinges were not screwed tight.Went back and tighten previous doors and they changed a lot and most of them were striped out. We do not put more than three shims in them because the painter's take all the doors off and never put them back in the same opening. My buddy told me that I worry to much. Watch this video and look at the praise in the comments. It worked. Nobody in real construction puts finished products till after the mudding and taping. The humidity will damage mdf unusable. Tomorrow I am tighting up the screws. Not telling anybody else because no good deed goes unpunished and will be able to get a lot more done. By putting the shims below the top hinge and above the bottom hinge all you have to do is take out a screw on the door side and adjust it to whatever you want. No worries.
All this made sense until he shimmed the bottom at the end. I thought all the measurements and cutting the hinge jamb side accounted for the need to shim... What am I confused about?
Because he added extra space for the tile under the door, there was space that allowed the door to sag on the handle side (left) and thus his line didn't match until he shimmed.
A little confusing................@2:06 you slid your tape down..7/16's...............@ what measurement did your mark end up from floor.? Did not appear to affect your marking! Explain please! Thanks for the video.........much appreciated!!
or..you can just lay a level on the floor, and take a tape measure and measure the largest gap.in this case the striker side..or you can level the floor with some self leveling underlayment
Can someone explain why he measured from the bottom of the door on the hinge side and not from the bottom of the jamb? 1:54 is where I’m talking about.
Not a carpenter, but there's gotta be an easier way than measuring all that stuff if you're gonna make adjustments with shims anyway right? You're gonna adjust for leveling and plumb before you screw in anyway, seems likes this was made to confuse people.
I agree, he does over complicate it by making those reference marks. Just check how level the floor is and either shim or scribe accordingly. Plus those deck screws are total over kill! Even if it is an exceptionally heavy door, it pays to conceal the big screws behind the stop and/ or run long screws through the hinges.
Thanks for this video. Many out there on how to install an interior door but this one fits my rational. One question: At 4:50, what's the name of the combination tool used to drill holes and deburr or chamf at the same time? Best.
Beautiful technique. However, I think the bottom of the door may well need a bit of a tapered cut to provide a consistent reveal and to accomodate the tile to be installed.
He mentioned aligning the door with the wall, but did he mention making sure that the door was plumb front to back? As in tipping forward or backward. What if the wall is not plumb that way either? I also have a transition between rooms that has oak hardwood to a ceramic tile. So the tile side is about an inch lower that the hardwood side. I'm guessing a contour gauge may be a good way to transfer the funky shape of that transition? The builder did it awful, basically hacked it out and just filled the space with caulk. The things you never notice in five years of living in a house that now bother you. Lastly, is screwing the frame in place preferred? I thought I've always seen them nailed. How many screws are required? Do you putty over and sand prior to paint?
How do you measure 21" from the top of the door and jamb, and then 21" from the top of the frame and still have a space at the top of the door? You had a couple inches easy when you had the door in place.
Stephen Hodge that measurement would have been greater than 21” from the top of the rough opening (frame) to the level marks on the opening (frame) he never measures from the top of the frame to the marks he makes with the level. He does that on the door to get those marks on the door level. The floor isnt level so he cant do that by measuring from the bottom of the door if that makes sense
The exact measurement is unsure. Whatever the length was from the bottom of the jamb to the bottom of the door minus 7/16(spacing for tile under the door) is what he cut off.
So he hooks the bottom of the door adds 7/16 of an inch to the 58 1/4 to give a 7/16 gap under the door right? Where do you mark the jam to cut it with the circular saw?
why leave the huge gap at the top fo the door? even though it's doesn't appear to be a structural wall. it's going to get wabble. put another 2x in at top? also. with the floor that far out of plumb in the closed position. you should check the floor level in the (90 degree) open/opening position(s) to make sure it's not going to get stuck on the floor before being fully opened.
As a professional I must say I’ve never seen an interior door hung with screws. Even 8’ solid core. If a jamb is adequately shimmed in an opening then finish nails are plenty to hold the door in place. After casing is installed then the door isn’t going anywhere.
Agreed! Finally someone else in these comments who agrees. I was like, man are they going to hang a thousand pounds on that door?!? And all those screw holes through the jamb! I remove a screw in the middle of the hinge and replace it with a 2" to match on all three hinges and tack the striker plate side with air gun brads that leave a tiny hole to fill. Once the trim is tacked to the jamb, you could hang on that door all day.
I THOUGHT I knew how to hang a pre-hung door and have done many in my time. I followed Tom's procedures here and hung 3 Interior doors in less than an hour - they hang perfectly!! Thanks Tom!!
@Alan Reynolds same here. Hung probably 75-100 doors in my time so far. But Tommy's way is great and I still do it this way
I'm right there with you - I almost feel inclined to share this video with my old boss who taught me how to hang doors - the part about tacking the shims prior to installation is honestly a revelation to me
Same. I always used to shim the hinge side with the door in place. What a waste of time. Though I don't own a 7' level, so gonna fix that or use one of my 4-ft's attached to a 2x4. And will be using reference lines henceforth.
There's still a inch difference underneath the door
@@tycobb8621 there's still a inch difference under the door
This man is about the only person I can listen to and completely understand what he's saying. Seriously. Thank you. I'm refurbishing my dad's house and am doing a pretty good job....because of these many videos. Yippie.
"Came out really good, I love it" - and the academy award goes to...!
I love this because it’s genuine. No script at all. “ I love it”.
😂
0:55 Floor is not level, so mark a level reference line across rough opening
1:15 Measure to determine jamb length
1:30 Measure and mark jamb for cutting
3:00 Cut jamb to proper length for level installation
3:15 Shim so trimmer studs are plumb
4:00 Fit door in rough opening using reference lines
4:50 Screw hinge side jamb to trimmer stud
5:30 Shim to level Striker side of jamb
6:00 Close door to check reveal, then shim and screw striker side jamb
6:30 Install door casings
U must have no life
You left out 4:02. Mash finger in door.
Lmao I was like wait so he cut the jamb and then shimmed it? Lmao
This could be helpful
For those who are confused:
At 1:58, tommy says that his line is at 58-1/4” on the hinge side. He is referring to the level line on the Sheetrock NOT where he marked the door jamb. He measures 7/16” down from 58-1/4” to account for tile and thinset and marks there so he actually marks the jamb at 57-13/16” from the bottom. He simply measures from the top of the jamb on the hinge side (21” to line on jamb) in order to find the measurement necessary in order to level the header. Then, he transfers that same 21” to the striker side which will give him a level header. Since the hinge side had a shorter measurement, he must cut the hinge side to fit. Hope this helps, it is definitely confusing in the video.
Mr. Langdon do you know how much he cut off and why ?
Tbank you !
57 13/16, then since it was an inch out of level, 59 minus 57 13/16 is 1 3/16, but since the striker side was a quarter already still from the 59 1/4, 1/4 of that 7/16 is equaling it out, so really, a 3/16 of that 1 3/16 had to be taken into account for as extra height to be removed, so he only would've cut exactly an inch off, right? That would've given a perfect floor margin? Or is the original door height - the 7/16 to be 57 13/16 get transferred to the other jamb, and just cuts the inch out of level off. This is all assuming the gap on the striker side still has a 7/16 margin, when it didn't it was only a quarter, but where does that come into play?
There's nothing explaining the margin that already exists between the threshold area, bottom of door and jamb on the side that needs to be longer. shouldn't that be a variable?
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
This comment and @Paul Epling those numbers would be way easier to understand if you used metric
Man this guy has the best tools! This was 8 years ago and his tools are still better than the stuff I see at the Home Depot.
Now they should do a follow up episode where Justin goes back to his home planet and teaches everyone else how to hang a human door.
🤣
Ha! Poor guy was nervous as hell. That happens when the red light comes on
He just doing everything he can to hide the fact that he eats people
This comment killed me.
I’m cackling
Recently, we replaced a 20 year old prehung, prefinished flush door because the previous door had a cat door cut into it. To our surprise the new replacement door (32”x80”) had the exact same hinge hinge placement as the old one. We originally planned to remove the oak trim from both sides and remove the old jam from the frame. However, all we had to do was to remove the old door at the hinges and reinstall the new door with the old matching hinges. The door fit like a glove! You’ve gotta luv industry standards that stand the test of time.
good to see Tom sharing his library of knowledge with the kids, we need more kids doing this.
We need the kids to do a lot of things.
The past few generations don't want to work, they want someone else to do it for free.
This helped me and fiancé hang a door with absolutely 0 experience. Thank you so much
I've been doing interior doors the hard way my boss taught me. This video was pure enlightenment. My old boss used to get mad if I used reference lines. Turns out I had the right ideas and intentions and was scared away from it.
Wait, we have the same boss?
@@sciencebuddy4096 possibly 😂 granted he was smart but he had his way, and I had mine.
I've a need to meticulously dissect everything. He hated that.
That's why some bosses probably never hung doors before and think they know what they are doing and talking about.
The real proof is when they do a door all the way to the end and the door closes perfectly... To the end!
A very comforting voice saying "you got this. I'll be here next to you the whole time."
I now feel ready for this job.
My dad built our house with help from his friends. He's just like Tom when it comes to carpentry and plumbing. The down side to me he's just like Chef Ramsay if you don't understand it the first time.
i can relate to that
Isn't everyone's father like that?
Keith Upton
+Kathryn Joyner Yes?
aha thats genius
This fella is displaying the definition of "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"
Plenty of guys would have just thrown it in and been making "adjustments" the rest of the day.
I also like the Katz method. Tommy is a class act.
I'm 100% positive Justin is a Machine.
GetGood no, just a bad actor
A robot or peewee herman 🤔
Or an android sent from the future or a great actor
I'm 98% positive he's Sheldon Cooper's evil twin.
I know a couple of people like that...
Great tips. Concise and to the point. Out of about a dozen videos I saw; Tom's the only one who actually plumbs and measures BEFORE drilling and setting jamb; what a pro. And thanks for the tip :)
level the floor first especially under the door area and install the tile then install the door so the gap under the door is not ugly
Travis B problem is.. he gaped it to a unfinished floor. Now when they put flooring down they will have to trim door bottom.
I've been in the Bizz for almost 30 years, new houses. Trim/doors first then tile. Leveling the floor is the flooring guys job. Better to have a level door to begin with.
The video was made for floor without tile. Period! Installation of the tile has nothing to do with Technics to install door. These Technics are great.
@@Gitarzan66 leveling the floor is the slab pourer's job. Problem is, we've become accustomed to their shoddy work.
I dont mind doing it. It pays decent if its extreme enough to be a mud job. With flooring, I'm more concerned with the surface being flat than level. A significant distinction.
In less severe cases, I charge $50/hour plus materials to screed thinset or leveling compound.
It's cool that they helped Eminen hang that door
😂
Slow, smooth brained Eminem.
"Thanks for the help Tom". Ya right. I think he means " Thanks for doing it for me Tom".
That's why I never learned anything as a kid. My grandpa would just do all the work and then say, "You got it, right?"
I didn't have it, but I love him anyways. Thankfully there's RUclips now.
I laughed too hard at this comment. 😂😂😂
It's not rocket science. You don't need to do it to learn
@@roberthughes2687well now since you brought up rockets …. I think our boo Justin here might have some expertise in that field 👽
@@roberthughes2687 You might think that but reality is different than theory. The seasoned pros make it look easy, overconfident amateurs don't know how bad they actually are.
Thank you! Thank you! After 3 generations of bedroom doors I have finally learned how to hang a door properly thanks to your video! Excellent tutorial! :)
Your bot supposed to have a inch difference underneath the door
While the door I was hanging was in a weird spot and probably would require a custom door to actually fit properly... I was able to follow this video and a few add ons to hang my first door that's plum and level! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise with us!
These things always seem like best case scenarios.
My house was built in the 70's. Seems everyone was high out of their mind while constructing it. I get it.
They are, I recently installed a door for a client man I've never seen a worst door opening really had to mess with the door jams to get it in, in the end it came out a bit tight
1" difference over that distance really isn't best case scenario...
The Best prehung door video I have seen ...hands down. He obviously is an awesome old school pro. Well done sir and thank you.
perfect video. I love how Tom is so calm and methodical, makes it so easy to understand!
You don’t see him between takes 6 and 7 😂
I "found" this video today - a very time appropriate because I have five doors to hang in my family room / guest room / bathroom area. You have saved me a whole lot of "figuring." Thank you.
On the hinge side, why do you measure up from the bottom of the door, not from the bottom of the jamb?
thank you teacher, you with your videos have contributed to me putting bread on my childrens table,thanks a lot
This is the only video on RUclips that shows the proper way to hang a prehung door We use to snap level lines through miles of office interiors years ago to do the exact same thing 👍🏻🔨
Thank you!! We are putting doors in and have unlevel floors throughout this old house of ours. This video really helped us, we have watched it multiple times and pause it while we work on each step.
There is still a inch difference under the door this is incorrect
just installed 6 interior doors for a happy customer thanks to "This Old House"!! Makes installation a breeze 😀 😎
Not a total newbie but I’m lost at 1:58.
1. Why do you measure from the bottom of the door on one side and the bottom of the jam on the other?
2. How did you determine how much to cut off from the hinge side of the door?
I understand you’re accounting for the unlevel floor and tile but the measurements are where I’m getting confused. Anyone else?
Me too, and no one is answering that I can see.
Here is what I'm assuming. He cut off the jam on the hinge side to leave the 17th inch for the tile. Since it just so happened that the jam on the handle side to the reference mark was 59 inches, he didn't need to cut. But if the floor was perfectly level, it wouldn't have been 59 inches, and he would have ended cutting off the same amount from the doorknob side that he did the Jam side. The floor was just really bad, so it made the example a little confusing.
Nice video includes showing how to correct errors in frame/floor. Thanks.
These guys are true craftsmen. So much knowledge ! love all of This old house videos!
There's still a inch difference underneath the door
Love all the episodes aired throughout the years! Wondering if you can do an episode demonstrating how to switch the hinges of an interior door to be on the inside of a room rather than the outside (wrong side in our fixer upper) of the room as well as the direction the door will then have to swing? Thank you for your ethics, good humor, sharing of soooooooooooo much knowledge and expertise! Much respect!
Seen 10 vids so far. This one's best explained
This video was so helpful. I'm terrible at this kind of stuff, but I was able to install my door and it works great. I'm grateful for these guys.
There's still a inch difference underneath the door
Tom the only thing I missed is how much did you trim off the hinge side jamb in this example? I know the two sides were off by 1" and you accounted for flooring but I lost how you came to a trimmed length. Thanks
Agreed. Maybe it was that 1 inch?
The cheaper and faster way is to install the trim onto the front side of the door jamb before hanging up and nail the trim into the wall, then go in and shim and screw the jamb. It may be the C student way, but i got up 15 doors in a day that way. You would basically be using the trim on the door like the "quick door hanger" product.
Yep
Yup, then you`re coming back in 1 year to rehang every door after it has settled, lol
How can you possibly do the trim first and get your reveal to be spot on?? This is NOT the better way to install in my opinion. If you want a professional/proper trim reveal, then you mark/measure your reveals, AFTER the door is installed to put on trim.
Split jam doors are typically done this way, but it doesn’t typically give you the best result as far as level goes and isn’t very adjustable. Doing it the way Tom does allows for a precise placement of the door. Nailing the casing might fly on production homes but will not work for high end custom homes.
@@billy9043 adjustable square set to 1/4 inch trace inside of pre-hung jamb on both sides of door. I dont condone pre-trimming any door but anything is doable
Tom Silva makes everything so easy.
Tom you are the bomb! This is the best tutorial on door hanging ever. Thank you so much
Great video. Good tips and step-by-step visual and verbal instructions. I put the laptop on pause for each step. Plumb and hung alone! Thank you Tom!!!
tom silva is incredibly concise!!
Tom is the best carpenter I've seen for real
Nice job. I thought, however, you first fill the holes and then prime. That way there is no flashing or dull spot where the filler was.
"came out really good, I love it"
the old house is the man make learn understand very very simple
thank you sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much for your valued videos that helped me very much
Aya Noah HURRRRP
Nice and simple instructions. Watched different video and the guy recommended pounding in wall framing with sledge hammer if it wasn't level and I was like isn't that what the shims are for.
lol what da fug...
It’s only one inch out of level in that respective area. The whole subfloor is probably 6+ inches out of level if it drops just one in in a 2 foot span
Love this. I'm a part-timer DIY and my method would have taken an hour longer. Done in a snap.
I can install any door without a level. Master Carpenter of over 40 years...
Especially those split jambs
Why does he still have a inch difference gap below the door
If you're on concrete slab you might want to put a shim under both sides to keep the door off the concrete.
Tile was to be installed.
Still gotta carefully remove the old door frame, but this looks easier than trying to replace a missing door in an old beat up frame. Got the new door ready to go, looking forward to the learning experience. Thanks for sharing!!
I’m working with the Carpenter who sort of understand this principle get it right in the end but it takes forever to hang the door this method is so fast and so much better I just hung 10 doors I wish I’d seen this video first
I am literally getting ready to install a door exactly the same.
Great video thanks!!
Can't wait to try this out! I have 6 pre hung doors to do!!! I should be old hat by time I get them in.
What is the point of cutting if you are shimming the striker side from the bottom. I'm an absolute newbie at home renovation, so this is all new to me.
I was half-expecting Wolverine to make a dramatic entrance when he said "Stryker".
Jambs are 1/2 inch longer than the door. You just can't cut off one inch from the jamb without making the door shorter. Look at the bottom of the door at 3:10 it was cut probably at an angle. They deleted this from the video. Why?
Experience makes things look easier
Measure from the top of what the door, the jamb
He should have cut the door to match the floor angle also. Otherwise it accentuates the out of level floor. I also wouldn't put screws through the door stops. These are Home Depot type of jambs with the stops milled in one piece with the jambs. I would prefer separate stops and to hide the nails/screws behind the stops. I would put screws through the hinges, and not the stops. It makes for more work. I measure the floor level and cut the jamb to fit flat in the floor as high as possible to avoid trimming the door if possible, but sometimes you have to, and it looks better when done if you match the floor to door gap evenly. Also, sometimes you cannot set a door perfectly plumb in an old house. It makes it look terrible. If the house is leaning, set the door to match the walls next to it.
it was being tiled after installation of doors. no gap seen
So, this is pretty confusing and not well explained in the video. I calculated this out for over an hour, and my math is correct:
- He adds 7/16" to 58 1/4" on hinge side. Hinge side jamb cut to the ref mark now on the jamb should be 58 11/16" in total length (remember we don't know how much he has to cut yet, just what length should be. Some people are saying subtract but no, at 58 1/4" the door would be flush to floor, take any more length off the jamb and game over)
- We would want the strike side to be 59 11/16" due to 1" difference in floor height.
- However, jamb ref point on striker side is only 59" in length to bottom of jamb.
- This means that we're missing 11/16" from the jamb on the striker side. (He mentions in the video that "we're only missing 1/4" which is fine for tile." This is incorrect. Remember he added 7/16" for spacing at the bottom of the door, so we're using completely different ref marks at this point. We're not measuring on the door frame anymore, only the jamb)
- Since ref marks are same on both sides, we now know that the uncut length on the hinge side is 59" also from the ref mark.
- This means we need to cut 5/16" off of the hinge side jamb, assuming the jambs are the same length.
- At this point, the hinge side would be resting on the floor and the striker side would be 11/16" off the floor and the ref marks on the jambs would match those on the frame.
- If you wanted to add space to tile under on the hinge side, then you'd have to cut an additional 1/4", so instead of 5/16" cut off, it'd be 9/16" to cut off.
Look at 3:09 in the video, no way in hell that is 7/16" from bottom of door to jamb. That's why when he shims the bottom of the striker side at 5:47 it looks way closer than 11/16" from jamb to floor.
this is what I don't understand as well. It looks like he shimmed up what he just cut off of the jamb.
I read all this to understand and still confused cause I seen him cut the hinge side that already was lower. But I think I got it now lol
I just got a job hanging doors. A coworker told me to watch you tube since I have not done this for 12 years. No body has had much success be fore me. The company before this worked for taught me to nail it on below the top hinge on a 1\2 inch block elevating for carpet with a 1\4 inch shim but not nailing the shim. Put the magnetic level on the hinges then put two nails above the bottom hinge with shims on top to level.look at the reveil of the sheet rock and spit the difference for sheetrock deceptively.easy right?.today was my third day when I realized the hinges were not screwed tight.Went back and tighten previous doors and they changed a lot and most of them were striped out. We do not put more than three shims in them because the painter's take all the doors off and never put them back in the same opening. My buddy told me that I worry to much. Watch this video and look at the praise in the comments. It worked. Nobody in real construction puts finished products till after the mudding and taping. The humidity will damage mdf unusable. Tomorrow I am tighting up the screws. Not telling anybody else because no good deed goes unpunished and will be able to get a lot more done. By putting the shims below the top hinge and above the bottom hinge all you have to do is take out a screw on the door side and adjust it to whatever you want. No worries.
All this made sense until he shimmed the bottom at the end. I thought all the measurements and cutting the hinge jamb side accounted for the need to shim... What am I confused about?
Because he added extra space for the tile under the door, there was space that allowed the door to sag on the handle side (left) and thus his line didn't match until he shimmed.
And likely he took those shims out after the striker side was screwed so tile could be later later.
A little confusing................@2:06 you slid your tape down..7/16's...............@ what measurement did your mark end up from floor.? Did not appear to affect your marking! Explain please! Thanks for the video.........much appreciated!!
Great video, very helpful for this first timer. But I can't help notice the bottom of the door doesn't look level at the end.
or..you can just lay a level on the floor, and take a tape measure and measure the largest gap.in this case the striker side..or you can level the floor with some self leveling underlayment
He did that first dummy
Can someone explain why he measured from the bottom of the door on the hinge side and not from the bottom of the jamb? 1:54 is where I’m talking about.
Don't fuget, on the hinge side Tom meshad 58 and a quata!! Watchin Tom wurk is a Wicked pissah!
fuggetaboutit
😂
What type of drill bit is that at 7:03?
What a GREAT video. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
Not a carpenter, but there's gotta be an easier way than measuring all that stuff if you're gonna make adjustments with shims anyway right? You're gonna adjust for leveling and plumb before you screw in anyway, seems likes this was made to confuse people.
I agree, he does over complicate it by making those reference marks. Just check how level the floor is and either shim or scribe accordingly. Plus those deck screws are total over kill! Even if it is an exceptionally heavy door, it pays to conceal the big screws behind the stop and/ or run long screws through the hinges.
Splendid! Just what I was looking for! Thank you so much!
Now Justin has a new closet to hide the bodies. Thanks, Tom!
On the next episode of this old house Tom shows Justin how to install sound proofing on the inside of the closet.
Could a novice do this by following the video? Would it work or be a complete disaster?
I want to know what countersunk drill bits he's got, those look nifty
It's a tapered countersink bit, designed for wood screws.
Homeowner: wow that's gonna take some work
Tom: Oh yeah
Reality: Takes Tom about 3 minutes lol
And homeowner didnt lift a finger
He didn't have to cut the frame down. Had a lot of space above the door. Now he will have to under cut the door when he does the tile.
Very helpful...thanks guys!!
The slow methodical discussion is perfect for learning this. I bet someone sits next to him and says slow the f* down... Over and over.
Why did you measure from the bottom of the door on the hinge side, but measured on the bottom of the jamb on the other side?
Remodeling a house. Should I install doors before hard surface flooring? Just leave a space at the bottom of each jam? Or...flooring first?
yikes, its an inch out of level at 30" i can only imagine how much across the whole room..
lSAMV31l yeah imagine doin tile in there lol
In another 30" it returns to level. So overall, the room is nice and level :)
My whole living room was 2 inches out from one corner to the other. One inch from just a door? Holy smokes!
It's a great place to have ball bearing races.
That's what I was thinking lol. Only thing I know that crooked in so few inches is my ding dong
I thought I knew how to hmang a door learned a few things there. Genius!
Thanks for this video. Many out there on how to install an interior door but this one fits my rational. One question: At 4:50, what's the name of the combination tool used to drill holes and deburr or chamf at the same time? Best.
Beautiful technique. However, I think the bottom of the door may well need a bit of a tapered cut to provide a consistent reveal and to accomodate the tile to be installed.
He mentioned aligning the door with the wall, but did he mention making sure that the door was plumb front to back? As in tipping forward or backward. What if the wall is not plumb that way either? I also have a transition between rooms that has oak hardwood to a ceramic tile. So the tile side is about an inch lower that the hardwood side. I'm guessing a contour gauge may be a good way to transfer the funky shape of that transition? The builder did it awful, basically hacked it out and just filled the space with caulk. The things you never notice in five years of living in a house that now bother you. Lastly, is screwing the frame in place preferred? I thought I've always seen them nailed. How many screws are required? Do you putty over and sand prior to paint?
Good point. Forever having a door open or close by itself.
If you guys look for good windows around US or Canada, I suggest looking into Dako products.
How do you measure 21" from the top of the door and jamb, and then 21" from the top of the frame and still have a space at the top of the door? You had a couple inches easy when you had the door in place.
Stephen Hodge that measurement would have been greater than 21” from the top of the rough opening (frame) to the level marks on the opening (frame) he never measures from the top of the frame to the marks he makes with the level. He does that on the door to get those marks on the door level. The floor isnt level so he cant do that by measuring from the bottom of the door if that makes sense
How much did he cut off the door jam? So that it's flush with the door or did he account for the 7/16" in that cut?
I've been reading the comments for the answer
The exact measurement is unsure. Whatever the length was from the bottom of the jamb to the bottom of the door minus 7/16(spacing for tile under the door) is what he cut off.
This homeowner is just like “durrr” the whole time
wow Justin sure has an amazing personality !
That man is a very good carpenter
Looks like a mix between Tony McGuire and Marshall Mathers. Great video! I might do my own doors now. My floors are definitely not level...
Also, maybe throw Aaron Ruell into the mix.
So he hooks the bottom of the door adds 7/16 of an inch to the 58 1/4 to give a 7/16 gap under the door right?
Where do you mark the jam to cut it with the circular saw?
why leave the huge gap at the top fo the door? even though it's doesn't appear to be a structural wall. it's going to get wabble. put another 2x in at top? also. with the floor that far out of plumb in the closed position. you should check the floor level in the (90 degree) open/opening position(s) to make sure it's not going to get stuck on the floor before being fully opened.
As a professional I must say I’ve never seen an interior door hung with screws. Even 8’ solid core. If a jamb is adequately shimmed in an opening then finish nails are plenty to hold the door in place. After casing is installed then the door isn’t going anywhere.
Agreed! Finally someone else in these comments who agrees. I was like, man are they going to hang a thousand pounds on that door?!? And all those screw holes through the jamb! I remove a screw in the middle of the hinge and replace it with a 2" to match on all three hinges and tack the striker plate side with air gun brads that leave a tiny hole to fill. Once the trim is tacked to the jamb, you could hang on that door all day.
Justin is from Jordan Schlansky’s home planet.
He makes that an easy way for a home DIY er