Homemade Portable Air Conditioner DIY - NO HUMIDITY! - Long Lasting Ice! - The Fan Cannon
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2021
- This portable air cooler produces no humidity. It's super easy to build and more versatile than all the rest. Ice last for several days depending on your cooler. I call it "The Fan Cannon."
Parts & Tools List:
Copper: amzn.to/3zLJr0O
Small plastic tubing: amzn.to/31B4jrP
Large plastic tubing: amzn.to/3cGkEBQ
Water Pump: amzn.to/3fxlAdt
Cooler: amzn.to/2QQjdrX
120 Volt Fan: amzn.to/2A3brCQ
Copper Cutter Tool: amzn.to/31C1XZO
For 12 volt instead of 120 volt, use the following pump and fan motor:
12 volt fan motor: amzn.to/2LIN2GZ
12 volt water pump: amzn.to/3wkXlFF
Buy the following at your local hardware store:
4" abs pipe x 2 ft
3" pvc pipe x 2 ft
Hose barb adapter 3/16" ID x 1/4" MIP
Hose barb adapter 1/2" ID x 3/8" MIP
Compression coupling 1/4" OD x 3/8" FIP
Compression coupling 1/4" OD x 1/4" FIP
Other portable air coolers I have built:
Version 4 - • Homemade Portable Air ...
Version 3 - • Homemade Portable Air ...
Version 2 - • Homemade Portable Air ...
Version 1 - • Homemade Portable Air ...
Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/ 
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Some thoughts on this setup:
First, I'd like to say you are one of the first to use a coil setup instead of evaporative cooling, which is the best way to cool.
Next, you mounted the fan directly to the air tube, which severely limits airflow. The best way to get the most airflow is to use a larger pipe diameter than the fan outlet and the fan flow will suck air in from the extra space around the fan. This is called the Bernoulli principle. The low pressure generated by the air stream from the fan creates a suction in the tube, generating more flow, a LOT more. Think Dyson fan or compressed air venturi.
Also, you would need to insulate or house the water pipes as they will condensate in high humidity. The best way to do this is to put both inside a larger pipe and have it connect to the cooler. As long as the fan is above the cooler, then the condensation will drain back to the cooler.
A step up from this setup, which would require a permanent mount, would be to use a water coil, just like the ones used in driveway heaters and some air conditioners, for increased cooling surface area.
Lastly, I don't know if you have done this in a video or not, but I would like to see a run time on 10lbs of ice (1 bag) showing the room temperature and exit air temp during the test. Maybe do a test outside in a garage or some other shaded area when it is 80 or more outside and see how long the fan will produce sufficiently cool air.
Sorry for the long post, but this is a really great idea and very similar to what I had planned to do!
Hopefully he responds to this, but not likely. Are you capable of making one? I’d like to see it
Please make one and ahow it on RUclips like this step by step
@@debbie4710 I have one, and will look into making a video on the setup of my next one. The one I made is highly experimental, and very crude. My next one, since I proved the concept, will have a proper water coil, a better fan, and a better water tank. The issue is the money needed to create it. The water tank is expensive, so I'm looking into alternatives that are insulated. I really don't want to use a cooler.
@@charlieodom9107 Can you explain why you say that a coil setup is a better way to cool than evaporative cooling? Thank you if you can.
@@insider235 evaporative cooling adds humidity to the air, whereas a coil does not, and can actually dehumidify if the coil temp is lower than dew point.
You would need a humidity far lower than 40% in order to use an evaporative cooler with any degree of effectiveness, and to be honest, most of the US has higher humidity than that when cooling is required.
Also, using a water coil with a closed loop keeps the water isolated from the environment. This means shit in the air won't end up in the water.
I have one that has a 12x15 or so coil, attached to a 10 gallon tank that I fill with ice water, and has a submersible pump to cycle water up to the coil. I use a 12V 14" fan in a bernoilli tube for airflow on a PWM controller for speed control. It runs on a lithium pack made from pouch cells and can run all day on a single charge, unless on max speed. Airflow at max is around 1500cfm, and cooling at that speed is nearly 10,000 btu. You need a damn commercial ice machine to keep up with the heat load.
great explanation. great thing to just have at home as a back up in case your AC goes out or to cool the bedroom over night without cooling the whole house down! If you would wind your coil over a 2" pipe you might get even greater cooling because of more coil exposed to the airflow. great also your warning about cutting up your hands!
Due to the closed system, you could actually pump higher than 5 feet because the weight of the water in the return line balances out the weight of the water in the pumped line.
You just need to give it a pressure boost to fill it the first time.
Never seen such easy to understand intructions! Bravo!
I believe the copper line will sweat thus, humidity.
It would have been nice to see a temp from the output of the unit
temps aside this will work fine, it's just a radiator attach to and ice bucket. Should just buy a normal radiator instead.
@@lateforwork2922 I was thinking that too but i think the tube design may be a good idea. I like having the air forced through a cold enclosed area. I thinking adding more copper tubing, double, triple the amount and insulate the tube and you can have something that works very well, shooting cold air in the concentrated direction.
Or maybe a heater core?
I use a transmission cooler.
@@south_paw I’m interested in seeing a photo of how yours was made. I enjoy learning this DIY and seeing where the transmission cooler is located, where you bought and how you installed it? 👍🏻
Brilliant! Spread the word!
Clever Clever Clever. Very Informative. Great Tutorial. Thank You for taking the time to make this video.
I BUILT OOOOOOONEEEEEE!!!!! With slight modifications for my needs and some tweaks from some comments in here! But it’s amazing!!!!
Tell me what you did because I can’t get any good results at all
@@mulekicker-ut5jl you made it the same design and its not cooling?
how long does the ice last?
Condenstate on the copper tubing. Create a drip tray beneath the copper tubing with a return line to the cooler.
That is a fairly obvious oversight to not address in this design.
@@pjsavagejr the copper tubing is part of the recirculating cold water.
Since all that copper is in the tunnel, its all exposed to the fan. I dont think it would build up condensate unless the fan wasnt blowing and the pump continued to run.
Just wondering, why a return line back to the cooler and not into like a "wast bottle"? For me, the return water would Just melt the ice faster? Or do i thinking wrong?
Thanks!! 😃
@@lincpink
You'd run out of cold water as fast as the pump could remove it.
The "used" warm water is recirculated back into the cooling tank so it can be chilled and recirculated again and again..
If you freeze a bunch of water bottles, you can just reuse them also, just a tip that I use to keep the rest of my stuff cold for longer than just ice cubes.
I'll probably be seen as a crazy person, but water bottles exposed to extreme heat and cold leech off chemicals. Idk if you use safe plastic, but most sites report it's very unhealthy to drink that water over long periods of time. But who knows, maybe it's all bullshit I'm not an expert
@@ryanmehring4080 I thought they only are dangerous if they’re left in the heat specifically in the sun. If kept cold. It should be fine.
@@thephilosopher5799 Maybe you're right. I was always told it was extreme temperature, regardless of hot or cold, but I guess thats what google is for
Ryan you might be right about that, but I don't know for sure. I only use the frozen bottles as ice packs, and identify them by removing the labels, ill only reuse the same frozen bottles over and over again, as I don't exactly trust the plastic leeching myself. So for the purpose of this AC unit it should be okey.
Its consistent temps below zero, high temps especially in sun, and huge repeated temp changes (so going from one extreme to the other) and some brands use safer plastics now
Great concept. Glad to see a low-humidity design; most of these are evaporative cooling ones which are great for the dryer parts of the country but terrible for the really humid parts of the country like the southeastern states. Another design similar to yours I saw used a small radiator instead of the copper piping; that didn't require the tube screwed to the wood or the bending of the copper tubing which would definitely save lots of build time and reduce weight and bulk.
A few other ideas - someone that seemed pretty knowledgeable in the comments section for the radiator build one said that pulling the air through pushing it is more efficient and effective.
As has already been said insulating the lines is probably a good idea. They pointed out the condensation issue but I'd point out that it should also increase thermal efficiency and thus how long the ice lasts.
Longer, more tightly coiled copper tubing would increase the available thermal transfer surface area and thus colder air output much like the radiator idea.
Lastly, if you use a battery powered fan of some kind, such as one of the many affordable rechargable battery-powered camping fans out there, you could greatly increase the portability of this system since you wouldn't have to plug into either a wall outlet or generator or something and could recharge it via USB in a car, solar, etc. I'm not sure if the fan in your current design is variable speed or not, but if it isn't that would be another advantage.
Excellent design 👍
How cold does it come out?
Just made this and the lowest temp I got was 52.5F. It is running in my garage at the moment (86deg F)and there is a puddle of water on the floor from the tube I imagine if you use this in a small space the humidity will lower and there will less condensation. Also I found if you insulate the hoses it does get cooler. 52.5deg F is with the hoses insulated. I will try this in a van tonight and see if it makes a difference.
how was it?
Curious, did it work in the van,and how long did it last? Have a campervan that gets hot. Ty
So no update?
@Bstaylor35 -- What did/could you use to insulate the tubing...?? I'm in process of gathering supplies to make this, and love the idea of increased efficiency through insulation, just not sure what to look for. Anyone's thoughts would be really helpful. Thank you 😊
~ Heather
how long does a bag of ice last?
Very inventive design! However, since Ice can only absorb 144 BTUs per 1 lb. It looks like he put 3: 10lb bags of ice in. Therefore the max heat the ice is able to absorb is 4,320 BTUs.
If the ice lasted 3 days running an estimated 12 hours a day, then this is the equivalent of a 120 btu air conditioner. Pulling just 120 BTUs of heat out of the air each hour.
Considering the smallest window ac is around 4000 BTUs or able to pull 4000 BTUs of heat out of the air each hour, the temperature drop coming out of the end of the black pipe can be assumed to miniscule.
It would feel nice blowing directly onto you. However, It will by no means cool a room.
well science guy, without an ambient air reference your numbers are meaningless. if it was 33 degrees outside it would last a REALLY long time, and cool nothing. if it was 100 degrees out, no way is that lasting 3 days
@@jayc4283 thank you for helping to confirm that this device doesn't actually drop the air temperature in a meaningful way!
I like it. I'm thinking for my application, a camper van, I might go harvest a radiator and fan from a small car at a junkyard.
I like the idea of not blowing air directly on the ice to make it last longer. This is unique and informative. II really like the dialog and suggestions from others who are drawn to your channel because of it's uniqueness. Good work!
If your ice is melting faster it simply means it is absorbing the heat at an accelerated rate. As long as that heat is only being absorbed from your conditioned space there is no inefficiency in having your heat exchanger inside vs outside of your ice chest. Reducing humidity makes the perceived climate more comfortable at a higher temperature. The condensation collected by your copper coil should be returned to the ice chest or it will likely evaporate from whatever surface it drips onto. Your supply and return lines need to be insulated as well due to the condensation that will be formed on them until the delta between the water vs air temperature drops.
say you had that on the cooler, how do you get to cycle only cool air back into itself? seems like a never ending battle, i get if you cool your room down it'll last longer using the room air but i want something more efficient.
Cool idea. I’d like to see some temp readings to see how efficient it really is.
Cheap improvement ideas:
1) You could put salt in the water. That’ll drop your “coolant” from 0 to as low as -21.
2) make your coil a series of flat coils (like an old electric stovetop burner). This will maximise heat transfer from the fan. But will also reduce fan output. So you’ll want to find a good balance because part of what makes this feel cold is the evaporative cooling from the fan on your skin.
3) put in a big block of ice vs small cubes. This will theoretically increase the thermal mass and therefore the efficiency.
wouldn't the water in the tubes be at risk of freezing? could you add alcohol to the "coolant" to lower the freezing point? though I'm not sure if that could be corrosive.
@@MrKool4kats have you ever seen water in a cooler freeze?
Between three comments I thought of rock salt being added to the ice to make homemade Ice cream 🍦 .....Back up boys , I have 50 years under my belt at making Ice cream ! I made a rough cooler once with frozen water bottles of 20 Oz and 2 liters in a big Rubbermaid tote , forced air thru the bottles and out a vent. Thank God for our freezer because it took several sets of bottles throughout the day because they melt down faster than you can freeze them back. Not practical but I thank God for giving me enough common sense to put it together 🙏 . The best of my life had come home after a double mastectomy and the removal of 3 lymph node's and we had a few days of record breaking heat . Until we were able to cool our home , I kept that air blowing onto her body for several days. We already had many bottles frozen that we used for our camping trips and had dozens more empty bottles that we had saved for other things . It's funny that long before the surgery, we had fussed over the empty bottles that were in a big plastic bag, to keep or throw away , how they were junkies up the utility room , never knowing that God had a plan for them bottles. That was over ten year ago and yes, she is still with me and the cancer has never returned. I didn't mean to be lengthy or make the subject into something else , I think I triggered myself and just kept typing, if it bores someone then it's too bad because I'm posting ! PS ......OK boys get on with your designs and figure out something better , God Bless
@@MrKool4kats If ice cold water freezes in any part of the process, it would be a great accomplishment, never a hindrance.
Transferring a frozen temperature is way better than transferring a cold temperature.
Yea and you can sit on cooler and chat at the camp site with the blower zip ties perfect height at your back! Sounds also great for sleeping at camp.
That was probably one of the best AC's I've seen made. Perfect for my small studio apartment.
i just have to try this
fantastic idea!
Excellent Dude!
I love the vids and your trials and experimentation to get to this model, I will say; you are a very brave man or divorced.
Great idea! An auxiliary transmission cooler can be more efficient.
whats that?
and if you want colder air output , have another transmission cooler hooked up to water pump hoses (using splitter) and placed in front of fan air suction (behind the fan blades to cool air before going through pipe cooler).
if it works be great for the lake out camping and keep your beer and sodas cold at same time lol
I've been working on something that I think is better all round, instead of running your cooling medium through some make shift exchange or coil close the loop and run something like windshield fluid through in to help keep the parts clean and ice watetr un contaminated.
Reverse the flow through the tube. The best heat exchanger will take advantage of the difference between temperatures ( aka delta T or dT). If the hot air hits the coldest water first, you will end up at the air exit end of the tube with cooler air, and warmer water. As the dT will be less at the exit end, you will not be transferring heat at the end of the tube. The air would already have been cooled, and the water would have already been warmed. You should have opposing flows. ie. Blow the hot air into one end of the tube, but flow the cold water from the exit end backwards to the air entrance. This ensures that the air starts being cooled by the warmest water, then continues further to colder water, then finally exits with the absolute coldest water at the end. This will transfer the most heat from the water to the air. .... Now. you can add a PID temperature controller to control the pump. When there is a lot of ice, you probably can turn on/off the pump to keep the water tube at say 40F. If the water gets colder, then shut off the pump. This will save some of the ice for later. As the air heats up, the PID controller will keep increasing the pump on timing, keeping the air temperature the same.
GREAT IDEA!
I wonder if he could leave his setup as it currently is, except move the fan to the opposite end of the tube? The fan would be pulling air vs pushing it, but it should still work, taking advantage of the difference in temps like you describe, correct?
@@wdschwartz8386 The fan will add heat to the airstream. Whatever wattage the fan uses will be added heat. It may not be much, but it will the there. By putting the fan after the cooling, it will be warmer than putting it before the cooling section
Just to make it simple.. the water and the air should go in the same direction or opposite?
A bit tippsy now and my dyslexia would not help me.
Thanks from sweden!!
@@lincpink water and air go in opposite directions. Ie. The water would exit where the air enters
Going to try this; Concerned that he says copper but link is to steel brake line. I live in high humididity FL, have cwntral AC but primarily only use bedroom & small office; want to try this just to cool those rooms to cut summer electric bills. I'll report back with my results. Good video, thanks!
I would suggest putting 2 weak clothes pins on the return hose - one against the inside wall of the cooler and one against the outside end. Together they serve to keep the return hose at the desired fixed height above the water. You can do the same for the intake hose to ensure it remains submerged and doesn't move up when moving the fan.
I made a smaller version with the coil as an attachment for the front of my vornado fan.. appreciate the info👏🏼
How is it?
@@joshako condensation isn't a real issue when you have wind hitting the coils. Its actually cools my small room well considering I put the components together from Home Depot and Amazon part. Used a smaller cooler then the one in the video and applied rubber grommet to all the holes. Using reusable ice packs.. so far so good. Working out all the little kinks. I've already come up with a bunch of improvement.🥵😎😁🗽
Client adjustments for optimum cabin comfort should always be easy to access, and offer a multitude of climate presets...sure to accommodate all of her possible climate control needs within the cabin. 😌
Excellent idea. Missing condensate return back to cooler as noted in other comments. If you are not having much condensate, then most likely your output air is not cold enough to draw out the moisture from the air. In that case, lowering the amount of air would help...this would reduce output temperature. Also, since this is a closed system the height doesn't matter to the pump. As long as you start the flow going at a lower elevation, your pump will work regardless of the 5 ft rating you mentioned. Water would then just be syphoning down.
I'm wondering if you could build a DIY AC that could cool a 10X10 room just as good as a 5,000 btu window AC using less power by adding an ice maker to the inside of the cooler. Like use those ice tray size/type ice makers that are used in regular freezers....Since there is already a small fountain pump inside, it could have a T fitting on the hose and be used to divert/ pump some of the water back into the ice maker while the rest of the cold water is pumped to the cooling radiator that sits on top of the cooler lid and has a fan blowing on it. As the ice melts the ice maker inside creates more. If you could find a 12 or 24V DC ice maker, DC small pump & DC fan, you could wire them all directly into solar panels without a battery bank or need for an inverter. When the sun comes up it automatically turns on the pump, fan & ice maker and runs/cools until sundown.
@@michaelbrinks8089 If you are going to buy an ice machine why not just buy a 5000 btu ac. It would be cheaper. More importantly what you are proposing wouldn’t work because you would have to extract the heat from you ice cooler out of the room otherwise you are just making the room hotter unless your ice making is more than 100% efficient which is an impossibility. What make an ac unit work is that you have the hot condenser air extracted to the outside.
@@mgpvii I had the ice machine and other parts laying around for free. In freezers they put the whole ice tray machine inside the freezer with none of it vented to the outside. So I'm pretty sure they don't give off heat from one side that needs vented like a peltier does. If they gave off a lot of heat I highly doubt refrigerator manufactures would put the whole ice maker inside the freezer section without venting it's heat to the outside.
@@michaelbrinks8089 you clearly don’t understand the refrigeration process, work load process and efficiency.
when I made mine I regret not insulating the copper lines as they sweated all over and many towels were needed to catch the condensation. My unit was made out of necessity when my home AC went out until it could be repaired. Therefore the Ice melted much faster as compared to this demo done inside an already cooled room, I assume.
Thank you so much for showing this. Did you think about using small radiator or heater core？
Cool man. I like it.
I don't know how you get 3 days of ice. I used your model. Bent 50' of copper tubing in a figure 8 style in a box. (I learned the hard way to not use a cardboard box due to condensation on the tubing, very wet at the bottom) Chilled water to the coils at the low side, with return at the high side. The box acts as a diffuser, forced air (a B&D high velocity cage fan) enter at the top, with the air vent to the room at the bottom. I use a 330 gph max pump, but keeping it on the low setting makes the ice last hours longer (but not nearly 3 days. 1 day max). Just my input.
Looks like a cold version of a kerosene heater😎 nice👍
I would maybe make the barrel out of metal. Metal always stays a lot cooler. Heck I might even line the cooler with metal. but I like your idea of putting the fan outside of the cooler. makes much more sense.
Ahhh Man , this model is by far the easiest and simplest and best model yet. This one I will be trying . Thumps up
How did it work? Did it meet your needs? What was your application?
@@Tripsolo65 Thanks for the reply. Yes worked like a charm easy to do . I used soft copper , cooler for of ice , drilled holes on side , aquarium water pump , roybi battery fan . Works great . I can really see buying a package like this at Wal mart . Look into a patent. It's the most cleanest looking design I've found.
What was your application?
@@Tripsolo65 application = used for ? Well honestly I just it in my house because I didn't have a/c . I moved it around in the living room during day and bed room at night . During that time I didn't need nothing battery powered . Now new a/c. But it did work I live in FL.
@@jmcc5168 thanks that helps tons
Thanks for the video. Great idea and design. On humid days do you find that water collects in the PVC pipe from condensation on the copper coil?
this solved my problem
Thank you sir.
So I took this same idea and switched it up a bit to fit my design. All in all it pointed me in the right direction. Instead of a cooler I used a 7.5G storage bin and I plan on using flex duct to run my copper in.
Flex duct only works if it is stretched tight and straight. A storage bin has no insulation and you will gain heat through the walls and create condensation on the outside of the bin.
Great idea and something we can all do! Reading down the comments shows a lot of interest in your invention!
A 2" smaller coil inside a 3" outer coil could shorten up the cooler cannon for storage inside the cooler - off season
Looks good.
With the 12volt configuration ( and a good LiPo battery (or 2) for power ) would it work well to cool the interior of a small 4 - 6 seater airplane?
Thanks, Chuck (NE Florida) : +)
What if you recirculate the air coming out back down through piping in bottom amongst the ice. Would the air come out even cooler? Having more time to cool?
Jason,
Getting ready to “build-out” my 7x14x6.5’ cargo conversion. In your opinion (I live in N. Texas) do you think 🤔 if I used a round igloo (10gal.) cooler and went vertical with the pipe/coil and put a “T” on the top with directional fittings, it would cool the trailer? Also, if I used my ICECO freezer to keep re-freezing ice containers would it work as well as loose ice? I am trying to go 12v and stay away from a high usage 120v Window A/C.
What is the difference between this one and the more simple version with an 8 or 10 inch fan blowing directly down into the cooler filled with frozen bottles? Honest question, I love learning. My version the quality of the fan is key. Typically a high speed heavy duty fan at 10 inches for the exhaust . Instead of one 3 inch elbow outlet blowing in one direction. I add 2-3 two inch elbow fittings spread in a Y formation to cover more area. It was blowing a constant 36 degrees for several hours and kept the area very comfortable for over 6 hours. Of course I used a very large cooler, 10 inch heavy duty fan with a higher speed than most domestic fans. You couldn't sit in front of it more than a few minutes
Good job sir
I'm making this one
I’m curious what the maintenance is on it. How often do you flush the system to prevent mold?
I'd love to see how well it works camping or in tent. Also iwonder if you did this exact thing but with a yeti and salt in the water, would it work even better? Great video!!
I like the coils just ziptied to a fan
Could you tell us the ambient temperature in the room as well as the temperature at the end of the output tube? What is the temperature difference? Thanks! I appreciate it.
omg can i just buy it from you? I need a portable one now!
Hello Jason Lucas, I hope you are well and thx for posting/sharing your DIY project. I mostly work in my garage and in serious need of an efficient way to keep me cool. I've reviewed multiple DIY Portable AC Units and yours caught my attention. I understand that output temp will vary depending on how the circulating water is being cooled; ice cubes, ice blocks, frozen water bottles, bagged ice, etc. I will ask if you have experienced any condensation from the copper tubing? I love your setup but condensation is a deal breaker for me. Looking forward to your response and thx again for posting/sharing.
im almost certain it will as it should. there is an easy way to deal with this, drill out a hole in the back and have it slanted back and attach a short 45pvc piece in the front, attach a hose from that hole to the cooler....problem solved
thanks for sharing your Great design and work. I work in a no AC shop in LA, yes do the math. I will build this to cool my desktop computer. I have a freezer at work, I will use ice packs instead of ice. This way I can have a set of packs in the freezer and rotate them out. Also, I will insulate the feed and return tubes. I wonder how a CPU radiator would work instead of the copper tubing?
@othoapproto9603 -- What do you think you will use to insulate the tubing...?? I'm in process of gathering supplies to make this, and love the idea of increased efficiency through insulation, just not sure what to look for. Anyone's thoughts would be really helpful. Thank you 😊
~ Heather
Some temperature differential measurements would have been nice at the end. Room temp v. cooler output temp. Very good design!
Very innovative 👍 Mad respect! Will likely be doing one soon with my own touches. Can most water pumps handle cold water?
This is exactly what I'm wondering. If cold can shut down computers... Would it be bad for submerged electronics like a water pump, as well?
Out of curiosity is there a rule concerning the spacing of the copper tubing, for example if I wanted to make it more compact..and used a smaller 3 gallon cooler ( random number ) and lined the wall of it with the copper tubing leave a small space near the bottom for water and about 4 three inch holes for air.. would that still work or is there limit on the circumference inside the tube that affects efficacy?
Nice setup, did I miss why two different size hoses?
What are the best screws to use to screw into the cooler
Now you just gotta route the water into an ice maker :D
How cold is the air exiting the tube?
What about the condensation that forms on the cold copper pipe from the air humidity? I would put an elbow with drain hole at the exhaust end blow the cooled air toward the ceiling and let my ceiling fan circulate the cooled dryed air... Just a thought
Add rock salt to the ice. Put a tightly rolled up length of aluminum (not plastic!) window screen in with the copper tubing coil to increase the surface area available for heat exchange to happen. Generally, squirrel-cage type blowers work better for forcing air against back pressure than simple fans. Just a couple of ideas. Don’t push these as a way to cool a space… they’re just not up to the task. Promote it as a way to blow cool air on yourself while you work, drive, or try to sleep … in that scenario, they can be game-changers. Good luck.
Couldn't salt corrode the system?
how is this not up to the task for cooling a bedroom??? it gets mine nice and cold in the summer. what would you consider to be up to the task?
Do you get any condensation built up on the coils?
Just waiting on my copper tubing.
It would of been nice if you had shown the temperature at the point of cold air exit. Also, a general diagram showing basic layout would of been helpful too. Thanks.
IT SO SIMPLE A CHILD COULD DO IT ....LOL
I would love to make this portable AC, but it looks more complicated to assemble than the one you did in 2018. More metal parts, wrapping copper wiring, etc.
Could you take double the copper and first make a 1.5 inch coil and come back with the 3 inch coil to double the cooling potential?
It would have been nice to see the air temperature that this unit puts out, I'm sure it's not as cold as blowing air over the ice water.
I built this unit for DC application (going to Burning Man). The 12v pump was not available, so a used one that I thought was similar (220L/H). I think it was too small because the until does not cool. I will try with a 240L/H. Going to fill the tube with copper mesh gauze. Hopefully this will work or I just wasted a bunch of money on parts. The link for large plastic tube takes you to a 3' (way to short), and the 12v fan does not go inside 4" abs pipe (so I just bought a 4" coupler). I don't understand why the return line is so small.
Why is the return line smaller diameter?
Just a suggestion to try make it cooler, try filling the pipe with copper gauze ,it will create more surface area for the air to hit and cool
That's pretty smart actually and much better than some of the abominations I have seen DIY trying to recreate the IcyBreeze. One thing I will also say though is that if ice is lasting longer in a controlled environment, that just means you are not exchanging heat as fast.
NICE Design, the best engineering is mostly the simplest !!! What is your temperature drop on outside of pvc pipe? tia
What do you do with all the condensation that will be pouring from the end of the tube?
I've looked through about a hundred comments looking to see if he did show any of the temperature numbers on this yet... Would like to see.
Without being said How do you think it more compact version of this would work? I own a small airplane with no air conditioning and I've been thinking about something along these lines as an idea. Do you think the same pump and fan design would work with a smaller lunch pail size cooler?
wow
Awesome video!! I'm going to build one. What are you using to power the SeaFlo fan? What is converting it from DC to AC? I thought I saw two power cords in the video-- one for the submersible pump, and one for ???. Do you have an unseen power inverter in this build? When using the optional speed controller, are you using a DC to AC speed controller? Thank you for the great post.
Awesome design ! My only question is what about all the condensation on the lines ?
well said i was thinking the same thing although a return could be placed in the tube but for the standing fans idk how that would work
this might be dumb but couldn't you just tilt the fan and let the water drip into an external resvoir? like a bucket
I need this but with a battery operated pump. My with get too hot on our kayaking trips.
Thanks
How bad is the condensation on the copper tubing in your "fan cannon" and do you get a puddle beneath the fan/tube connection?
I am sure he does.
Why is your return plastic tubing a different diameter than the intake tubing?
I think if you but a rabish of alimnium wire rolls inside the tupe it will get forozen and as the air got through it will make the air cooler
Quick question. Could the coils be wrapped closer together to allow the pvc tube to be shorter? I would like to build one where the entire system could be stored inside the cooler for easier transportation.
Did you ever try to make this with a shorter pvc?
perhaps have the fan/cannon attach to the lid, flip the lid and contain the fan/cannon inside the cooler for transport/storage?
@@thomasarellano4721 I scratched the idea because after making a few prototypes it wouldn't give me the cold air that I want
@@Breeegz good idea but if I flip the lid open with the fan attached to the inside than the ice would melt quicker
@@chriswoods9857 yep long as you don't mind putting ice in more often.
Can you hookup an Ice maker from a frigs to this cooler?
Hi, I live in a tropical area, wonder if there will be condensation on the piping and therefore "creation" of water on the cooper piping and on the PVC tube, could I happen? I wonder...
Our normal city temperature is 33 Celsius with abt 70-80% humidity.
It looks good to me. But I'm wondering why the return hose is thinner then the water hose? Would that become a pressure issue?
.... GOD Bless!!!
Amazing! How much was it?
I live on the top floor of a condo building so I need to cool my bedroom for sleeping SO could I use a room freezer and a closed loop water system to do them same idea?
I've watched all your portable air conditioning projects. What do you think is the best one that you've made so far?
People constantly ask this on all of his videos and he has yet to answer. A bit obnoxious in my opinion.
could it go past three days if cans or bottles were added to the cooler? thanks for the video, keep em coming
Block ice combined with the cubed ice will last longer, freeze water in bottles for reuse. a 1 gallon water bottle frozen or litter bottles filled water and frozen for example.
How do prevent sweating pipes from making a mess?
awesome idea. but when you run ice cold water through the copper pipe moisture
condenses onto the pipe and the air passing over evaporates the moisture and
will add a small amount of humidity back to the air. Maybe you need a little deseccant to
dry the air near the end just to take care of that. Great work though. +1 sub