I just got one in for a customer drag and drive wiring job. One thing I will mention, its way bulky and heavier than I anticipated, but such a stout unit. I will be starting this wiring job soon. Thanks for sharing the info!
I think the coolest thing is that you can diagnose issues really quickly by just looking at the lights 1st before you say try changing a headlight or something
It’s pretty cool that I’ve been in contact with George getting these set up for my own little small business. They must be a decent product if you are approving of them. Appreciate your knowledge as always. I strive to be able to help others as you do someday.
The capabilities of a unit like this is not necessarily revolutionary. However this is the first time I am seeing it in a complete package with easy of installation a key improvement. What I would like to see is the inside of the unit. What processors and other electronics are used? Any type of EMF shielding? Vibration/impact dampening materials? Any end user serviceable parts? Can it be daisy chained? Remote monitoring capable? What about software/EPROM updates? Now I know these are probably designed for a specific use like what you use for, custom racing vehicles, but I have a specific need for something similar but durability is paramount for a unit like this as a catastrophic failure in one node, seems to me, would affect the entire module, possibly bricking your vehicle. Which is why in my last build I used 4 smaller units to better isolate failures. If you desire, maybe in the next video about this unit you could address some of these questions. I know you're busy so if not thats ok. I can do some research on my own. But sincerely, thank you for bringing this to my attention.
Do you have experience with running continuous loads as high as they are allowing on those outputs? DT are only rated for 13A and DTP for 20, I’m sure for intermittent that a 50% over current is fine but continuous would make me a little nervous.
That ECU also has a nice flat spot. You could print off a I/O output Sticker to put on there. And or what Holley should have done with the terminator putting a label for what the LEDs and or colors mean
Is there a pdm that can output 0-5v? I wired up an Aeromotive brushless pump on a street car, and i wanted to used the variable speed without splicing into any of the engine sensors.
I wired one up as a 2 speed, you can run more than 5v on the 0-5 wire, so what i did was set up so the 0-5 wire would get battery voltage when we wanted the full 10gpm we just used an output of the dominator to send power when we wanted the pump high speed, we used boost pressure input for that.
Look up how those ratings come to be And you’ll understand te under rates them for our type usage by a lot With that said I never populate high amperage items right next to each other in a connector Space them out a bit
It’s kinda crazy, my buddies nitro boat that was a 2010 ish had a similar type thing in it that went bad, it ran all the pumps in the boat, timers, etc. I joking around told him to put a dominator in it, that’s what it kinda is, I told him, but this looks more like it. It’s just funny that the marine industry was using something like this 15 years ago and now it’s in racing.
Do you know what could cause my new 3 bar low doller map sensor to read 86kpa key on engine off. We thought it was sensor but wasn't. It gets 1.66 volts key on not the 1.87 volts I check all my grounds and power and everything looks good but all my sensors are around 4.6 to 4.9 volts I unplugged all sensor to check for a change no change. And my tuner doesn't know what is going on.
I just got one in for a customer drag and drive wiring job. One thing I will mention, its way bulky and heavier than I anticipated, but such a stout unit. I will be starting this wiring job soon. Thanks for sharing the info!
I think the coolest thing is that you can diagnose issues really quickly by just looking at the lights 1st before you say try changing a headlight or something
It’s pretty cool that I’ve been in contact with George getting these set up for my own little small business. They must be a decent product if you are approving of them. Appreciate your knowledge as always. I strive to be able to help others as you do someday.
The price is right for this unit for sure. About 6 months too late for my build but that’s the nature of technology
Great info! These seem like really nice units.
Hardwire makes great stuff in my very limited (3) experience.
Greatly explained as always
Wow that's really cool. Makes me want to rewire my car... That I am finishing up wiring right now 😅.
Keep adding more stuff I want to add to my car if I ever get back to it.
the inrush programing is huge for large loads fans windows ect . thats awesome
The capabilities of a unit like this is not necessarily revolutionary. However this is the first time I am seeing it in a complete package with easy of installation a key improvement. What I would like to see is the inside of the unit. What processors and other electronics are used? Any type of EMF shielding? Vibration/impact dampening materials? Any end user serviceable parts? Can it be daisy chained? Remote monitoring capable? What about software/EPROM updates? Now I know these are probably designed for a specific use like what you use for, custom racing vehicles, but I have a specific need for something similar but durability is paramount for a unit like this as a catastrophic failure in one node, seems to me, would affect the entire module, possibly bricking your vehicle. Which is why in my last build I used 4 smaller units to better isolate failures. If you desire, maybe in the next video about this unit you could address some of these questions. I know you're busy so if not thats ok. I can do some research on my own. But sincerely, thank you for bringing this to my attention.
Can you use the dial on the keypad to switch between tunes in the Holley?
Do you have experience with running continuous loads as high as they are allowing on those outputs?
DT are only rated for 13A and DTP for 20, I’m sure for intermittent that a 50% over current is fine but continuous would make me a little nervous.
Look up the way those pins are rated and you’ll see they are very wildly underrated
That ECU also has a nice flat spot. You could print off a I/O output Sticker to put on there.
And or what Holley should have done with the terminator putting a label for what the LEDs and or colors mean
How do you like it compared to the smart wire?
Wow wiring just made easy by HCR again!!!
These things are worth the money 💴 for sure!!!!!!
Is there a pdm that can output 0-5v? I wired up an Aeromotive brushless pump on a street car, and i wanted to used the variable speed without splicing into any of the engine sensors.
I wired one up as a 2 speed, you can run more than 5v on the 0-5 wire, so what i did was set up so the 0-5 wire would get battery voltage when we wanted the full 10gpm we just used an output of the dominator to send power when we wanted the pump high speed, we used boost pressure input for that.
Comparison to Smartwire?
Does this support the Holley Standard CAN or the Racepack CAN?
Thanks..
So if you have already wires my car , how difficult is it going to be ,to add this to my current setup and change over some of the wiring?
While I love the DT/DTP connectors for outputs it is concerning Hardwire ignores the current limits significantly.
Look up how those ratings come to be
And you’ll understand te under rates them for our type usage by a lot
With that said I never populate high amperage items right next to each other in a connector
Space them out a bit
Are you planning on pinning 12 high current outputs on the same connector? I'd say the client base for this pdm knows better.
That's a pretty kool gadget.
It’s kinda crazy, my buddies nitro boat that was a 2010 ish had a similar type thing in it that went bad, it ran all the pumps in the boat, timers, etc. I joking around told him to put a dominator in it, that’s what it kinda is, I told him, but this looks more like it. It’s just funny that the marine industry was using something like this 15 years ago and now it’s in racing.
Do you know what could cause my new 3 bar low doller map sensor to read 86kpa key on engine off. We thought it was sensor but wasn't. It gets 1.66 volts key on not the 1.87 volts I check all my grounds and power and everything looks good but all my sensors are around 4.6 to 4.9 volts I unplugged all sensor to check for a change no change. And my tuner doesn't know what is going on.
Now that's what I call convenience.
dtm pins are rated for 7 amps continuous
Look up how they’re rated
I’m well aware of the amp ratings on all the pins
What do you think of aim pdm 32
Max voltage is 14.8
That pushed it out for me
haltech nexus r5 does everything the dominator does and has the pdm built in, and their canbus plays well with others
Have you used one ?
What is your website Sir?
Hcrinnovations.com
$199 for a configuration file if they didn’t buy the pdm from you
Are they still 12v outputs if you’re running a 16v system?
It outputs battery voltage
What happens on shorts? How would you reset it
You can program auto resets or global resets based off of conditions
No longacre switches????🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣
No audio
refresh it works now
Derating exists for a reason….
Sure does
I’m well aware
Is it just me.. I can't hear nuffin
refresh it works now