would like an expanded video on this topic explaining where you route your smaller grounds like fans fuel pump and other smaller electronics that normally great multiple smaller grounds.
Good to know that i can safely use the firewall bulkhead as a common post to transfer my positive and ground through the firewall, I had always ran the ground and power under the car directly to the block/alternator-starter. Now I can move the wires inside the car and it will clean things up as far as im concerened. Love your videos.
Fantastic video. Thank you for posting it. I had no idea that threaded insert tool existed! I'm getting one and going back and removing all of my self tapping screws. I hated those things anyway.
About to move the battery to the trunk on my 87 Fox convertible. Holley EFI will be coming soon. Thanks for the good info! About to order some Temco cable as well.
Great video, this is so over looked. I'm guilty of it myself. My old setup on my 240sx the battery was located to the back. I was having so many issues, and it was all due to grounds. Didn't realize just how important proper grounding was.
I use 0ga ofc it's great need it for large stereo. Also have big 3 upgrade and 2 batteries. Learned about cable years ago when I used home depot 4 gauge for car stereo power wire it worked but was a pain to run. Great tips.
There are a few things that I would do different such as I use buss bars for power and ground but that’s because I spent part of my life doing installing telecommunications equipment and wiring not only has to function but also has to be very neat and orderly. That said in general I agree and like your wiring practices but would recommend a couple of things instead of welding cable check the price of locomotive cable the main difference is each of the fine wires is tinned which help prevent corrosion and resistance, second is the use of No-Ox on connector and connections and since you we don’t want noise in are wiring try as much as possible to have some separation of power and ground. Have a nice day and a better tomorrow.
you have greatly helped this guy(myself) out. Finding the best alternative to car specific products, like the locomotive cable with its added corrosion resistence, is so nice. I will remember No-Ox and seperating power and ground as well. Sounds on the floor level signal sucks!
Super informative video, thanks for sharing! Question on thoughts of distribution blocks - Is there downfall to making a large run (1/0 or 2AWG) for both power and ground to a distribution block near the firewall and branching off from there, with the exception of the alternator wire which will go back individual to the disconnect switch? I am in the process of re-wiring my car completely and have several things like the Leash boards, factory fuse box, starter, etc. and would like to minimize home runs to the battery where possible.
What LabelMaker do you use can I baro yours and can you get them cheaper anywhere do you know just kidding I just think it’s sad you actually have to say it
Was that #4 for everything related to battery, starter and alternator? I thought one cable looked bigger at the front of the car. Thanks for the videos!
Devin, are the factory grounds from the firewall to the cylinder heads on a foxbody good to use with an HP or do I need to upgrade to larger wire like you show?
I am planning on running a trans controller and pdm w/ a magneto ignition. Will following this technique be enough to isolate the electronics or are there other measures I need to take to make sure everything works properly?
I’ve had my dominator since the summer I am watching your videos to build up my confidence to install it thanks for the post since you run 4 gauge weding wire for everything do you buy it online or at the welding shop also it looks like you bought a lot of your stuff from Fastenal ?
Just wired my car up the same way as yours, minus the smartwire, but had a question. Are you running any fuses inbetween the kill switch and the alt/starter wires? i didnt see any in the video and i dont have any installed in mine currently. thanks!
Installed the sniper with the full hyperspark ignition in my 69 Camaro. I connected the pink trigger wire for the ecu, cd box and distributor to the IGN spade in the fuse box. Power is back feeding so the car does not turn off when key off. Is that a ground issue? Would you be willing to build and sell me a ground cable if i give you length? This is the only car i will ever build so i have limited wiring tools and crimpers.
How is the cut off switch shown to NHRA rules, maybe I'm not following it but with the alternator feed going to the lug that goes back to the battery, even whit the switch thrown cant the alternator still power the car residually? Wouldn't you need to run a dedicated charge wire back to the battery feed side of the switch?
thanks for the video ! but i’m a little confused. why the additional ground back to the chassis after you already grounded at the rear of chassis and block ?
Thanks for the video, really informative. I noticed you didn't have any fuses or circuit breakers on the hot leads. Do you just not run them? I'd like to know your thoughts on the subject.
I have a Holley set up on my gbody I relocated my battery to the trunk using 4 gauge wire but my car will not start . When I use my tool it shows only 7.2 or 8.0 cranking amps with a brand new battery I believe there haft to be a Vote drop
I was told I needed to run a separate line to my alt and put it on opposite side of kill switch of everything else bc of u hit the kill switch the motor will still run momentarily off the Alternator. Have u heard anything like that before lol
Good video! Wouldn’t you get alternator back feed with the power wired like that at the disconnect switch? For example, say at 2000 rpm, flip the switch, everything stays powered due to alternator.
I have read several articles that state the alternator needs ran to the battery so the kill switch disconnects the alternator from the rest of the system.
@@arlokkkk alternator runs to battery and the batter runs to main disconnect. All your system power and relay power comes from the main disconnect. There should be 3 cables hooked up to battery positive; alternator, battery disconnect, and holley ecu main power.
So I'm doing a Holley on my mod motor with a J2Fab 270amp extreme output alternator. Seeing this wire is rated for 150 amps, is it okay to use this Temco 4 gauge instead of something bigger like J2Fab suggests on a stock computer setup?
Looks good but... if your wire the alternator up after the kill switch, the car will stay running off the alternator when the switch is flipped off correct? I’m going to run it this way and try it. But I’m nearly positive that kill switch will not function the way nhra wants it to.
Devin, what makes a system have inconsistent "mark data points". I have mine grounded per this video and most of the log looks great from a data points perspective but there will be small sections where it drops from 60 data points per second to 15. I run non-resistor race plugs....could that be part of the issue? For grounds I have 4 AWG welding cable from battery to chassis, battery to block and block to chassis.
Devin That alternator wire needs to go directly to the battery not to the feed side of switch. You cut the power off at switch the alternator can and will keep power on. FYI
@@theholleyefiguy Hey Devin. So you must be disconnecting the exciter wire from the alternator at the shut off switch using the other smaller switch contacts?. In the video I didn't notice those wires at the switch just noticed the firewall connection. You do the same kinda work I do, very professional and I like the crimp bolt idea. Subscribing Thanks for replying. Glenn
Where do you get your bulkhead connectors I know you say a lot of stuff is not created equal want to make sure I get the best I ordered the wire that you use just wanted to make sure I got good bulkhead connectors... I see a lot of them have 3/8" posts is that what you run? Thanks
Do you only run 4awg with 16v? And do you thing 4awg will be enough for a LS motor starter and alt? Also the two clowns that made comments about how you can do this different or how you’re clearing your throat can F off they’re probably democrats and can keep using car audio wire and cca Fing clowns pay no mind to them keep making awsome videos this shits helpful to more ppl than you realize Haters are gonna hate 🤘🏻
Авто/Мото
would like an expanded video on this topic explaining where you route your smaller grounds like fans fuel pump and other smaller electronics that normally great multiple smaller grounds.
I keep coming back and watching this video as a resource! Thank you!
Good to know that i can safely use the firewall bulkhead as a common post to transfer my positive and ground through the firewall, I had always ran the ground and power under the car directly to the block/alternator-starter. Now I can move the wires inside the car and it will clean things up as far as im concerened. Love your videos.
Found you from the John Doc channel, loving your videos, cheers for sharing your knowledge and your work.
Thank you for making this video! Tackling my dominator in my 96’ “v6” mustang with a 5.4 swap done by me in my garage on jack stands💪🏼
Great video Devin! Your videos are a huge help. Keep it up.
Fantastic video. Thank you for posting it.
I had no idea that threaded insert tool existed! I'm getting one and going back and removing all of my self tapping screws. I hated those things anyway.
Terrific video!!!!! Thank you!!! I am done building my engine. I’m now ready to wire it up
Thanks man, can't wait to get my harness. You have been a great help to a newbie like me.
Love the channel. Nice work. Working on my LS swap and learning a lot from the channel...Thanks
About to move the battery to the trunk on my 87 Fox convertible. Holley EFI will be coming soon. Thanks for the good info! About to order some Temco cable as well.
really appreciate all the tech videos. Keep it up!
again, great stuff..
Great video, this is so over looked. I'm guilty of it myself. My old setup on my 240sx the battery was located to the back. I was having so many issues, and it was all due to grounds. Didn't realize just how important proper grounding was.
Very nice work! Hope to see some videos of your car at the track!
Very nice work,i watch all your vids,learned alot from watching,keep up the great work bud.
Bad ass shop man with all the right tools to do it the right way.
Love the channel...always great info!
Thanks
Excellent video...geesh i wish i knew about nut inserts before doing my car...i will be going back and using them
Another great video Devin.
Beautiful wiring job!
Awesome man thank you!! Also thank you for representing the small block ford crowd!!!
Thank you for sharing your experiences! Fella!
I use 0ga ofc it's great need it for large stereo. Also have big 3 upgrade and 2 batteries. Learned about cable years ago when I used home depot 4 gauge for car stereo power wire it worked but was a pain to run. Great tips.
Always informative and entertaining.
Thank you very much man! Great very informational video!
Thanks you gave me good ideas I just bought a crate engine with Holly sniper efi it's kinda intimidating
Awesome video helped me a ton thx for your expertise
Great video Devin!!!
i admire your work . thanks for the video
Thanks for the good tips & ideas. Regards from Ody Slim
Super clean build
Love these videos
There are a few things that I would do different such as I use buss bars for power and ground but that’s because I spent part of my life doing installing telecommunications equipment and wiring not only has to function but also has to be very neat and orderly. That said in general I agree and like your wiring practices but would recommend a couple of things instead of welding cable check the price of locomotive cable the main difference is each of the fine wires is tinned which help prevent corrosion and resistance, second is the use of No-Ox on connector and connections and since you we don’t want noise in are wiring try as much as possible to have some separation of power and ground. Have a nice day and a better tomorrow.
you have greatly helped this guy(myself) out. Finding the best alternative to car specific products, like the locomotive cable with its added corrosion resistence, is so nice. I will remember No-Ox and seperating power and ground as well. Sounds on the floor level signal sucks!
Such a solid video
Thanks for the video and info.
I was about to ask about your label maker lmao awesome!
Super informative video, thanks for sharing! Question on thoughts of distribution blocks - Is there downfall to making a large run (1/0 or 2AWG) for both power and ground to a distribution block near the firewall and branching off from there, with the exception of the alternator wire which will go back individual to the disconnect switch? I am in the process of re-wiring my car completely and have several things like the Leash boards, factory fuse box, starter, etc. and would like to minimize home runs to the battery where possible.
For small items like nitrous solenoids is a nutsert in the firewall a solid ground .. of course also grinding the paint exposing bare metal .
Great video!! I’m looking to rewire my car and I’m wondering where do you get your wire from.
Great vid
Beautiful car
What LabelMaker do you use can I baro yours and can you get them cheaper anywhere do you know
just kidding
I just think it’s sad you actually
have to say it
Was that #4 for everything related to battery, starter and alternator? I thought one cable looked bigger at the front of the car. Thanks for the videos!
Devin, thoughts on soldering battery lugs vs crimping? I want to do it right the 1st time, keep up the great informational videos!!!
Devin, are the factory grounds from the firewall to the cylinder heads on a foxbody good to use with an HP or do I need to upgrade to larger wire like you show?
Devin, in regards to the 4 gauge cable would this suffice for a car that is a little longer like a GM Abody or would it need to be sized up?
I am planning on running a trans controller and pdm w/ a magneto ignition. Will following this technique be enough to isolate the electronics or are there other measures I need to take to make sure everything works properly?
I’ve had my dominator since the summer I am watching your videos to build up my confidence to install it thanks for the post since you run 4 gauge weding wire for everything do you buy it online or at the welding shop also it looks like you bought a lot of your stuff from Fastenal ?
i buy most everything online welding shops are crazy expensive
What kind of epson lw-px700 label maker do you use? Have you ever used any Milwaukee tools?
Great video!!!
Devin do you not have fuses on any of these power wires from the battery?
Just wired my car up the same way as yours, minus the smartwire, but had a question. Are you running any fuses inbetween the kill switch and the alt/starter wires? i didnt see any in the video and i dont have any installed in mine currently. thanks!
Would those go lithium batteries be suitable for a pro street car meaning as much street time as track time?
Installed the sniper with the full hyperspark ignition in my 69 Camaro. I connected the pink trigger wire for the ecu, cd box and distributor to the IGN spade in the fuse box. Power is back feeding so the car does not turn off when key off. Is that a ground issue? Would you be willing to build and sell me a ground cable if i give you length? This is the only car i will ever build so i have limited wiring tools and crimpers.
How is the cut off switch shown to NHRA rules, maybe I'm not following it but with the alternator feed going to the lug that goes back to the battery, even whit the switch thrown cant the alternator still power the car residually? Wouldn't you need to run a dedicated charge wire back to the battery feed side of the switch?
Whats the consensus on soldering instead of or along with crimping ?
I'd like to put my starter on the same wire as my alternator. This doesn't cause any problems keeping the starter on? Thank you!
So the grounds Ford put initially on the firewall and left frame rail is bad? You said don’t just put it anywhere it’s bad?
You can use a hair dryer they work great for me just hold them close they get pretty hot close to the gun without the diffuser on it
thanks for the video ! but i’m a little confused. why the additional ground back to the chassis after you already grounded at the rear of chassis and block ?
Me too
Do you fuse your power runs from the battery?
Thanks for the video, really informative. I noticed you didn't have any fuses or circuit breakers on the hot leads. Do you just not run them? I'd like to know your thoughts on the subject.
he uses a Racepak Smartwire PDM, no need for fuses or breakers 🤓
check it ruclips.net/video/1j2-n-Ixvhw/видео.html
Are those power wires fused off the battery? I don't see anything
You should always use RK cables with many strands for flexibility and insulation.
Where would I buy the power & ground wire..? Where is it you get it from..?
Lol... I almost asked what label maker you used ...lol...
Ps i watched the whole damn thing
Glad I'm not the only one that uses welding cable. I catch flak from lovers of just battery cable. My vehicle, my choice.
I have a Holley set up on my gbody I relocated my battery to the trunk using 4 gauge wire but my car will not start . When I use my tool it shows only 7.2 or 8.0 cranking amps with a brand new battery I believe there haft to be a Vote drop
Nice foxbody
Where ya get the labeled heat shrink?
Devin, what's your thoughts on CCA battery cable compared to welding cable? I know it's lighter but how about dependability/performance?
i remove it and replace it with welding cable
Devin what material nutserts do you suggest for grounding, zinc carbon or stainless steel or aluminum?
zinc carbon
I was told I needed to run a separate line to my alt and put it on opposite side of kill switch of everything else bc of u hit the kill switch the motor will still run momentarily off the Alternator. Have u heard anything like that before lol
Where do you buy your wire?
Good video!
Wouldn’t you get alternator back feed with the power wired like that at the disconnect switch? For example, say at 2000 rpm, flip the switch, everything stays powered due to alternator.
Was just rewatching this and had the dame question.
Any answer on this? Definitely seems like the car would keep running.
I have read several articles that state the alternator needs ran to the battery so the kill switch disconnects the alternator from the rest of the system.
@@mtb09 Interesting but can you explain with more details please? I'm doing this in my car right now and it would help me a lot.
@@arlokkkk alternator runs to battery and the batter runs to main disconnect. All your system power and relay power comes from the main disconnect. There should be 3 cables hooked up to battery positive; alternator, battery disconnect, and holley ecu main power.
Who do you recommend getting welding cable from for primary battery/ground cables for a street car ???
i buy all of my welding cable from temco
@@theholleyefiguy Thanks
Tieeeeght job
So I'm doing a Holley on my mod motor with a J2Fab 270amp extreme output alternator. Seeing this wire is rated for 150 amps, is it okay to use this Temco 4 gauge instead of something bigger like J2Fab suggests on a stock computer setup?
Use whatever is recommended by the alternator manufacturer
@@theholleyefiguy Thanks man!
Where's the best to buy welding cable in bulk? . Seems like the stuff I get from the parts store isn't like the cable you use . Thanks
I buy alot from temco on Amazon
How about racepak dash grounding?
where can i get the labeled shrink tubing?
let me google that for you
So how do you run the holley through the disconnect switch since nhra states it has to cut ALL power to the car
I don't run it thru the disco
what is your thoughts on no chassis ground and just using the battery for ground?
?
A link to we’re you buy 4 gauge welding wire ?
Do you have a farm and fleet by you by chance ?? I dont know about lowes or menards ??
Do you have the power plug for the Holley HP computer? I am changing a MEFI4 controller on a Ramjet to a HP Holley computer.
558-308 is the holley part number
@@theholleyefiguy I am looking for the plastic plug only. I have the wires run but need the plug for the computer
How does the kill switch work if you have alternator with the same pole?
It's on the hot side of the disconnect
Can Holley EFI power be run thru a discount on the alternator circuit lugs?
Disconnect
Holley tech video says no...only straight to the battery.
how is the cutoff switch shutting down the car with the smart wire and alternator on the same side of the cutoff switch
They're not on the same pole
Ok in video you had smart wire and firewall on same side of switch , and looked like alternator was on the firewall post.
The switch was there till the 4 pole switch showed up
I used it for mock up
The switch used is a 2 circuit switch
Ah ok didn’t know they had 4 poles, thanks!
Looks good but... if your wire the alternator up after the kill switch, the car will stay running off the alternator when the switch is flipped off correct?
I’m going to run it this way and try it. But I’m nearly positive that kill switch will not function the way nhra wants it to.
The kill switch I use has 2 seperate poles
4 studs on it
Hey what label maker do you use? HshA can i borrow it??
kroy label maker and an epson
Still applies today
Devin, what makes a system have inconsistent "mark data points". I have mine grounded per this video and most of the log looks great from a data points perspective but there will be small sections where it drops from 60 data points per second to 15. I run non-resistor race plugs....could that be part of the issue? For grounds I have 4 AWG welding cable from battery to chassis, battery to block and block to chassis.
Will high quality oxygen free copper wire work?
Yes just don't use cca
@@theholleyefiguy thank you, I have a ton of it.
What voltage panel is that?
I've been trying to find one of these also
Wondering the same thing?
That is what I was going ask as well.
Devin That alternator wire needs to go directly to the battery not to the feed side of switch. You cut the power off at switch the alternator can and will keep power on. FYI
The switch has 2 pole and is double throw
It's on it's own circuit
@@theholleyefiguy Hey Devin. So you must be disconnecting the exciter wire from the alternator at the shut off switch using the other smaller switch contacts?. In the video I didn't notice those wires at the switch just noticed the firewall connection. You do the same kinda work I do, very professional and I like the crimp bolt idea. Subscribing
Thanks for replying. Glenn
@@glenngeddes6079 no its a moroso 4 stud disconnect thats rated for 150 amp per pole. im disconnecting the charge wire. thanks man i appreciate it
wow your car looks like RACIN JASON.
I just use a brother p-touch on regular 1/2" label and shrink clear over it, when I don't forget and have to make a flag instead
Some good info but a little overkill on the grounds.
I heard you say you use 4ga what brand and where do you buy that from if you don't mind me asking.
i use 4 and 2 awg i buy it from temco
@@theholleyefiguy thanks for the quick reply... You have an awesome channel by the way I've learned a lot thank you.
Where do you get your bulkhead connectors I know you say a lot of stuff is not created equal want to make sure I get the best I ordered the wire that you use just wanted to make sure I got good bulkhead connectors... I see a lot of them have 3/8" posts is that what you run? Thanks
Do you only run 4awg with 16v? And do you thing 4awg will be enough for a LS motor starter and alt? Also the two clowns that made comments about how you can do this different or how you’re clearing your throat can F off they’re probably democrats and can keep using car audio wire and cca Fing clowns pay no mind to them keep making awsome videos this shits helpful to more ppl than you realize Haters are gonna hate 🤘🏻