Cheap "TB6600" drivers often have the already inexpensive 6N137 optocoupler for STEP signal replaced with a cheaper one (4N25 or similar). 6N137 can handle 200 kHz easily, while 4N25 starts losing steps at 1 kHz and stalls at 4 kHz or so. With a bit of soldering skill you can upgrade the optocoupler and have a pretty decent driver for a ridiculously low price.
Hi Maxim, thanks for this new video. I've a question regarding the previous video, where in the comments I read you was going to improve the pcb and/or the Arduino code, it was not very clear to me sorry. I would like to replicate your project on my lathe and I wonder if the info you shared are the last ones or if there will be an upgrade in the future to fix the problem you faced. Thanks!!
Hi topmounting, I'm currently waiting for the next version of the PCB to arrive which should fix the problem with rare encoder mistakes (by adding 2 pull-ups) that I in the meanwhile solved with code. It also has connectors for the second axis should you ever need to motorize the cross slide. I'm also fixing the few remaining bugs as we speak, adding a ton of unit tests. It's always best to wait and see if you're in no hurry with your ELS project but it's probably safe to order the stepper now and figure out how you're going to connect it to the lead screw - that will be useful for any kind of ELS you'd build. You can be sure to see a video from me once I get the ELS stable as a rock :) Thanks!
Just published version the 5 of the code at github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/, I'm not aware of any bugs in it at this point and it's pretty well tested. Doesn't mean that there aren't any though :) Now just waiting for the PCB.
Dear, What a perfect configuration. I just order them from the website, how ever i'm not sure that i will able to connect them with an arduino uno. Can you please send me the schematic of wiring DM556y with an arduino uno (i think i will use the GRBL and UGS plattform). In advance thank you.
Thank you. See ruclips.net/video/iY_4YOlpqyI/видео.html for how to control a stepper driver with Arduino Uno. Basically, you need Arduino to have 2 digital output pins, one wired into DR+ to control the direction, one to PU+ to trigger a step. DR- and PU- should be simply grounded.
Hi, your work is impressive and i'd like some day make the same on my identical lathe ;) but tell me a couple of things i missed. Why dont employing a closed loop system? In your last 2 axis upgrade you still use one single arduino nano for both controllers? 👌
Wow.. Im asking this because in some tutorials Arduino systems are considered not very performing with a certain amount of processed data...how many encoder inputs are "right, few or overkill "? Does your project give perfect results like direct Gearing even with not much " Inputs" .. Thanks ;)
@@emierminio5219 they flew to the moon and back on 2MHz computer and Arduino Uno is 16MHz. Check out other Arduino leadscrew projects on RUclips, there's plenty.
Ok.. I'm a noobie with this things, forgive my questions ;) so, what is the maximum encoder steps that you consider perfect in this application? Thanks so much! And good Luck...
@@emierminio5219 I've only tried 600 step encoder and had no issues so far. I think 200 and 400 will also work well. Can go higher too but probably not into 2000 steps. Also think about the spindle to encoder ratio: if your encoder is 200 steps but is connected to spindle with reduction, you will get different step count per spindle turn.
I'm new to Steppers and am amazed at the high RPM you are getting. I can't seem to get anywhere near that without the motor either locking up or just rattling back and forth. What is the controller you are using here. I'm using an Arduino. Thanks
I'm using an Arduino Nano clone. Potential causes could be a cheap stepper driver (try more expensive, brand driver e.g. STEPPERONLINE or RTELLIGENT) or noise induced on the signal lines at high RPM from VFD, motor or something else (try shielded signal wires with shielding connected to GND or 5V).
I usually buy motor and controller as a bundle. STEPPERONLINE is a good, reasonably priced brand that I usually go with. As for CNC controllers, there's so many of them! I don't know :)
I have the MX 210v lathe. I'm not sure what the difference is? I have had trouble with the speed controller since new, would this controller be and easy plug and play solution?
Hi Levisgil47, here I'm using "Nema 23 Stepper Motor Bipolar 1.8deg 3.0 Nm 4.2A 57x57x113mm 4 Wires Open Loop" but I would recommend a closed-loop motor+driver instead.
Василий, на 48 вольтах конечно лучше будет работать но и греться тоже скорее всего будет сильнее. Качественный драйвер очень большое значение имеет, что за драйвер сейчас используешь? Closed loop моторы в этом плане лучшие - не греются, сильные, отлично ускоряются и шаги не пропускают. Правда вот габариты самих моторов увеличиваются, больше проводов ну и цена.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Использую не дорогой драйвер DM556,полного шага у него нет. Включен микро шаг 400, напряжение 24V работает тихо но разогнать его не получается (при оборотах шпинделя не больше 250-300 об/мин) идут срывы,пропуски.Шаговый двигатель Nemo23 с удержанием 3,0 Нм. Шестерни на ходовой вал и двигатель напечатал пластиком Nylon и они очень тихие в работе,в сравнении как на ремнях. До основного корпуса эл.гитары создал -напечатал дополнение-продолжение корпус для на печатаного из пластика PETG джойстика.Получилось класс. Но вот увеличить скорость-стабильность пока не совсем удалось.
@@vasilijgaiduk7594 думаю дело в драйвере и вольтах. Попробуй RTELLIGENT R60 и 48 вольт, должно быть гораздо лучше. Ну или сразу переходи на closed loop, дешевле сразу сделать нормально чем постоянно переделывать :) www.aliexpress.com/item/33016826807.html
@@MaximKachurovskiy С начала попробую 48V когда придет блок а затем уже и другой драйвер. А если поставить на шаговый двигатель шестерню на 60 а на ходовой вал 40 зубьев,получиться немного сдвинутся?То есть обороты шпинделя будут тогда больше а шаг.двигатель будет крутится с меньшими оборотами и большим крутящим моментом. Какие нужно сделать изменения в скетче,именно где?Хочу попробовать. В плане перехода на closed loop,может быть если найду а пока буду доделывать то что сделал,что есть.
Хобби
Cheap "TB6600" drivers often have the already inexpensive 6N137 optocoupler for STEP signal replaced with a cheaper one (4N25 or similar). 6N137 can handle 200 kHz easily, while 4N25 starts losing steps at 1 kHz and stalls at 4 kHz or so. With a bit of soldering skill you can upgrade the optocoupler and have a pretty decent driver for a ridiculously low price.
Thank you for a Christmas video!
Amazing, thanks for this video
I agree sure is worth it the extra $ .. ENJOYED !!
Hi Maxim, thanks for this new video. I've a question regarding the previous video, where in the comments I read you was going to improve the pcb and/or the Arduino code, it was not very clear to me sorry. I would like to replicate your project on my lathe and I wonder if the info you shared are the last ones or if there will be an upgrade in the future to fix the problem you faced. Thanks!!
Hi topmounting, I'm currently waiting for the next version of the PCB to arrive which should fix the problem with rare encoder mistakes (by adding 2 pull-ups) that I in the meanwhile solved with code. It also has connectors for the second axis should you ever need to motorize the cross slide. I'm also fixing the few remaining bugs as we speak, adding a ton of unit tests. It's always best to wait and see if you're in no hurry with your ELS project but it's probably safe to order the stepper now and figure out how you're going to connect it to the lead screw - that will be useful for any kind of ELS you'd build. You can be sure to see a video from me once I get the ELS stable as a rock :) Thanks!
Just published version the 5 of the code at github.com/kachurovskiy/nanoels/, I'm not aware of any bugs in it at this point and it's pretty well tested. Doesn't mean that there aren't any though :) Now just waiting for the PCB.
Dear,
What a perfect configuration.
I just order them from the website, how ever i'm not sure that i will able to connect them with an arduino uno.
Can you please send me the schematic of wiring DM556y with an arduino uno (i think i will use the GRBL and UGS plattform).
In advance thank you.
Thank you. See ruclips.net/video/iY_4YOlpqyI/видео.html for how to control a stepper driver with Arduino Uno. Basically, you need Arduino to have 2 digital output pins, one wired into DR+ to control the direction, one to PU+ to trigger a step. DR- and PU- should be simply grounded.
Hi, your work is impressive and i'd like some day make the same on my identical lathe ;) but tell me a couple of things i missed. Why dont employing a closed loop system? In your last 2 axis upgrade you still use one single arduino nano for both controllers? 👌
Emi, closed loop steppers take more space and are more expensive. You can surely use them though. Yes, Arduino Nano controls both steppers. Cheers!
Wow.. Im asking this because in some tutorials Arduino systems are considered not very performing with a certain amount of processed data...how many encoder inputs are "right, few or overkill "? Does your project give perfect results like direct Gearing even with not much " Inputs" .. Thanks ;)
@@emierminio5219 they flew to the moon and back on 2MHz computer and Arduino Uno is 16MHz. Check out other Arduino leadscrew projects on RUclips, there's plenty.
Ok.. I'm a noobie with this things, forgive my questions ;) so, what is the maximum encoder steps that you consider perfect in this application?
Thanks so much! And good Luck...
@@emierminio5219 I've only tried 600 step encoder and had no issues so far. I think 200 and 400 will also work well. Can go higher too but probably not into 2000 steps. Also think about the spindle to encoder ratio: if your encoder is 200 steps but is connected to spindle with reduction, you will get different step count per spindle turn.
I'm new to Steppers and am amazed at the high RPM you are getting. I can't seem to get anywhere near that without the motor either locking up or just rattling back and forth. What is the controller you are using here. I'm using an Arduino. Thanks
I'm using an Arduino Nano clone. Potential causes could be a cheap stepper driver (try more expensive, brand driver e.g. STEPPERONLINE or RTELLIGENT) or noise induced on the signal lines at high RPM from VFD, motor or something else (try shielded signal wires with shielding connected to GND or 5V).
@@MaximKachurovskiy Thank you for the reply. I will check that. I think that you are probably right about the noise.
What is the best driver for nema 23 and 34 that you can recommend? And which controller is the best for cnc router? thank you so much
I usually buy motor and controller as a bundle. STEPPERONLINE is a good, reasonably priced brand that I usually go with. As for CNC controllers, there's so many of them! I don't know :)
I have the MX 210v lathe. I'm not sure what the difference is? I have had trouble with the speed controller since new, would this controller be and easy plug and play solution?
Hi, do you mean the main spindle motor controller? I'm afraid that's unrelated, these steppers are only used to drive the lead screw.
@@MaximKachurovskiy yes, I misunderstood. Thank you
Hello, What type and torque of nema motor did you use? Thanks
Hi Levisgil47, here I'm using "Nema 23 Stepper Motor Bipolar 1.8deg 3.0 Nm 4.2A 57x57x113mm 4 Wires Open Loop" but I would recommend a closed-loop motor+driver instead.
Максим,а какое напряжение питания шагового двигателя,24V или 48V?
48V может улучшить работу шагового двигателя на больших оборотах?
Василий, на 48 вольтах конечно лучше будет работать но и греться тоже скорее всего будет сильнее. Качественный драйвер очень большое значение имеет, что за драйвер сейчас используешь? Closed loop моторы в этом плане лучшие - не греются, сильные, отлично ускоряются и шаги не пропускают. Правда вот габариты самих моторов увеличиваются, больше проводов ну и цена.
@@MaximKachurovskiy Использую не дорогой драйвер DM556,полного шага у него нет.
Включен микро шаг 400, напряжение 24V работает тихо но разогнать его не получается (при оборотах шпинделя не больше 250-300 об/мин) идут срывы,пропуски.Шаговый двигатель Nemo23 с удержанием 3,0 Нм. Шестерни на ходовой вал и двигатель напечатал пластиком Nylon и они очень тихие в работе,в сравнении как на ремнях.
До основного корпуса эл.гитары создал -напечатал дополнение-продолжение корпус для на печатаного из пластика PETG джойстика.Получилось класс.
Но вот увеличить скорость-стабильность пока не совсем удалось.
@@vasilijgaiduk7594 думаю дело в драйвере и вольтах. Попробуй RTELLIGENT R60 и 48 вольт, должно быть гораздо лучше. Ну или сразу переходи на closed loop, дешевле сразу сделать нормально чем постоянно переделывать :) www.aliexpress.com/item/33016826807.html
@@MaximKachurovskiy С начала попробую 48V когда придет блок а затем уже и другой драйвер.
А если поставить на шаговый двигатель шестерню на 60 а на ходовой вал 40 зубьев,получиться немного сдвинутся?То есть обороты шпинделя будут тогда больше а шаг.двигатель будет крутится с меньшими оборотами и большим крутящим моментом.
Какие нужно сделать изменения в скетче,именно где?Хочу попробовать.
В плане перехода на closed loop,может быть если найду а пока буду доделывать то что сделал,что есть.
👍
♥🌹🌹
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