Project Hyundai SantaFe: Front Brakes, Bearings & Dust Shields
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this video I start working on a 2011 Hyundai SantaFe that needs a ton of work. So come along as I start out replacing the front brakes and dust shields. Pretty routine work with lots of rust and crust. -Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
I learned from this. I thought there were only 2 Torque settings; G&T ( Good and tight ) and G&S (Good and snug )--Who knew there were actually specified Torque settings and Tools to achieve these. Thanks Eric O. !
Being a Canadian (read that as salt land) technician, I'm 100% in agreement with your penetrating oil statement - I've never run into a situation where the penetrating fluid made it past the head of the bolt. I even had a customer who soaked his bolts every few days for a month and the bolt was totally dry on all surfaces you couldn't see with your eyes.
There's only one that I've used that works pretty well, but it does require some soak time. What it excels at for the most part is getting in under the rust and helping avoiding the threads from galling on the way out, and it does that pretty quick. But anyway, Omega 636 is the stuff. If we have time to let it soak it does penetrate into the threads as well as getting in under the rust crust.
@@inventoroftoast ehhh if you heat it, you've already won!
I agree on the penetrating fluids, as well. One trick I would have used here is to wire brush the exposed threads for the wheel bearing bolts. That would have helped them not lock up on the way out. Been pretty successful using that technique. It just comes down to what is faster when time is money.
I've had very good luck with Seafoam Deep Creep (foaming) Penetrating Oil, seems to work it's way in and down. Project Farm found it good too!
Jeff Winter Yeah, that’s what I’ve been using for a while now. Seems to actually work too! And yes, I saw that episode too. Used to use Kroil, but the Deep Creep is much cheaper and does seem to work better.
"I can't believe how easy this was." I learned a long time ago not to say that in the middle of the job.😀
Usually I say, "Mmmm, that was unusual"!!
Me too, I can't count the times that comment has bitten me in the azz.
Yup....things I have learned from years of this to never say......1. It will only take ten minutes. 2. I made really good time on that job. 3. Should be pretty straightforward. 4. This is going really well... 5. I’m the best at..... 6. They’ll never know.... all of the above lead to the undeniable car gods turn for the worse.........Say nothing and be humble
My favourite is 'How hard can it be?'
Then you find out.
Or at the beginning of the job either I had a boss who did that and the job fought us every inch of the way until he got frustrated and went to his golf game with his pals and left me to my work the job got exponentially easier and most of it was together by dinner. He called and was going to be late in the morning and I told him not a problem.
I used to own a 2011 Santa fe. traded it in with ~90,000 miles on it, over the years I replaced the rear brakes 3 times, fronts 2 times, broke a front spring and replace a lower ball joint on the passenger side, never touched the 3.5 liter v6 other than Amsoil changes every year.
People can be such 'nitpickers'. I accept everything you do, as you are the master mechanic!
I am almost a professional brake man at this point and I like it!!!! I always pick up good tips and tricks from these vajeos. I am ready for part 2 of Project Hyundai SantaFe!!!
Dirty Side Down
Life in the rust belt man, holy moly.
Arizona here - nothing like it in my experience!
Part of the problem is people up here don't wash their cars enough. I live about an hour from SMA and wash my car 3X weekly in the winter. My last vehicle I traded in with 168K miles on it had just a little bit of rust. And I've lived here my entire life.
Only by watching other channels do you realise what high quality videos you turn out time after time after time-The Atlantic Ocean separates us,yet I feel I'm there in the garage with you,looking over your shoulder-Keep doing what you're doing-And for God's sake LISTEN when I shout out advice to you !!!!
Glad you mentioned AZ. When I was wrenching, cars that were rusted like the Hyundai in the vid were few and far between. I usually would spend time shaving as much of the rust off as I could. I used an assortment of tools to scrape off the rust: screwdrivers, putty knives, wire brushes, and elbow grease. If I had known then, what I know now, I would have had a load of Bulldozer drain cleaner and sprayed it on the rust ahead of time and rinsed it off later. I learned about its rust eradicating ability when I got a free lawnmower next door to a yard sale. The fuel tank was extremely rusted and I tried Naval Jelly first, Limeaway second, with almost no effect. I had the Bulldozer, thanks to a recommendation from a guy at a hardware store. It's primarily hydrochloric acid, so caution is mandatory. As soon as it went in the fuel tank, it started fuming and bubbling. I had the mower out in the open back yard and used the hose with a high pressure taper nozzle to purge the tank from about ten or twelve feet back. Once I was sure it was safe, I dumped out the water and checked the results. I was very surprised. Even though it was only a few minutes exposure, there were areas of shiny bare metal showing. I poured in another dose of the acid and let it work a little longer. I nailed it with the hose and the second round had the rust almost entirely washed out. Just a few spots in pits remained. One more dose of the Bulldozer and purging left the tank rustless and shining inside. Fortunately, the exposure to the outside paint didn't damage it, probably due to the combination of dilution and rapid flushing away by the high volume of water. Once the tank was dried out with compressed air, new gas inside, a new primer bulb, and the engine oil changed, the mower fired up on the second pull. Ran great and cut grass like it was brand new. Until the first wheel broke. Dang plastic mower wheels turn crispy in the AZ desert. Four metal wheels and the thing is still going strong after twelve years.
@@met6490 ... Lotsa grass yards still out here. Weeds grow in the gravel section, but those get poison and fire.
1 minutes into the video, and I have some respect for the owner. The car's been neglected, but they're willing to pay up and keep it going.
As for the rest, I can definitely appreciate the rust belt struggle living here myself. It usually affects everything I work on, but a 2WD GM truck front hub assembly was by far the most rusted, seized thing I've ever dealt with.
Wow I've never put on a dust shield. Here when you get a new car you just take them off and throw them away. Kind of like when you get a new set of sockets, you just throw the 10mm away and get it over with.
😂
☺
Rust, crust, hammering and torching. Best entertainment around.
Thanks Eric, I always learn something when watching your videos.
Free tip. Use a slide hammer attachment to push in axle to hold it in to get the bolts off from inside of hub.
For many of us Eric, we watch your videos for the details. When you skip steps to shorten them, we miss some of the tricks of the trade. Every job is not the same, the way you navigate the issues is where the "help" comes into play. Maybe in the following videos covering the repairs to this vehicle, you will include "the details". Thank you for taken the time out to put these together, I personally enjoy them.
I’ve been a mechanic for just about 18 years now(on paper, been turning a wrench since I was a kid) and I love watching your videos. You do it the right way no matter what. It’s a sad world because I’ve seen so many hacks in this industry. I refuse to be one of them. And your funny as hell. I get a kick out watching you fight with the same things I do. And I catch every time you slip and cuss on camera!
My late father-in-law once paid some young fellow from his church to work on the brakes on his 1st generation Ford Fiesta. The young guy found the pads were wearing unevenly, so he just swapped the inside for the outside. In his mind he put a good pad on the side that had clearly been doing all the work. He had no clue about a seized caliper pin. Luckily, no one was hurt, because the brakes were horrible after that.
Man, people really must have been blasting you over the weekend. Lots of rebuttal!
No need to explain yourself Eric. Some people just dont realize your experiences to justify how you do your work.
Thanks for so many good videos. You have have taught this shade tree mechanic a few things along with lots of good laughs.
Growing up in Michigan and working on cars before I graduated high school is the reason I went to school for aircraft mechanic. High performance and no rust. Then I found out it doesn't pay worth a darn!
Hey Eric, I am a retired tech of 45+ years, my life long buddy is the same. While he was working at a Ford dealer he installed new brake pads, rotors, and calipers on late 70s Olds Omega. It had a stuck piston on the right hand caliper so it was metal to metal, and the left side was still good. The lady who owned it was at the service desk picking up her car, and was asking why they had to replace the calipers. And after explaining why she said she understood why they replaced the calipers, but why did the right side wear and not the left. After trying to explain this four or five times (my buddy who had walked past and overheard the entire conversation) she just couldn't understand why one side wore more than the other. So my buddy stopped and asked the lady, "Do you think that maybe when you apply the brakes, that you are placing your foot on the right side of the pedal instead of the middle? She thought for a moment and left satisfied.
At a previous job I worked at a used car dealership. We had a service where we would store your winter tires for you during the summer. This older fellow always made sure we let the air out of the tires before carrying them around because if you let 30pounds of air out, they would be 30 pounds lighter. I tried to explain the difference in pressure vs weight, but my boss stopped me, and told us to oblige him. The old guy only bought his cars there, and had them serviced there, so he was 100% right, lol.
Yea, back in HS i had an HVAC teacher who worked professionally. He was caught in a constant power struggle between a group of women who worked in an office. Some wanted it one temperature and others another. He put in two fake thermostats and told them the AC would average the two...that solved the problem. They both thought they had control when in reality the system just used a main control that covered the whole building...
@@Bobbywolf64 That's why I put Helium in mine. Ha Ha
@@rock.doctor I guess installing a fake thermostat is cheaper than all that psychanalysis required to fix the problem at the source.
@@Bobbywolf64 And there is the old summer and winter air. Also there was an engineer that swore if you increase you air pressure in the winter the tires will push harder on the snow and ice, increasing traction. Now increased tire pressure will make the tire tread more rounded and decrease the contact patch so more weight is concentrated but...
I used to come and watch the videos for tutorials on how to fix vehicles but now, i come for the commentary. Keep them videos coming sir.
Also just lubed my brakes up yesterday, my bottom pins on both sides were very hard to move. They had silicone seals on them. I also noticed that purple permatex stuff had turned into a hard paste on them. I just cleaned them and put some sil-Glyde on them and put em back. :)
Having just done brakes, shocks, subframe bushings and motor mounts on my old Chevy venture, I do appreciate being in Arizona. I didn’t have a single rusty bolt.
Eric I enjoy how you break things down for the idiot in all of us. Big Thank You!
Native Upstate New Yorker (Utica) but have lived in Florida and NC since 1993. Usually never have to deal with all the rust. DYI'er in my driveway is hard enough on my back let alone dealing with all that rust. Great job, I wish it was less of a hassle for you, but maybe you like the challenge!
The vehicle has Cancer due to the excessive rust. Reminds me of the state of NY. I am impressed with SMA for being like a Dr Frankenstein and putting on the parts needed for that thing to come alive.
Remember to put that washer convex or (chamfered side out). Reason being the chamfer catches the edge the smooth does but not as well. Eric makes it all look so easy. Maybe that’s why he says “ if I can do it so can you" .
I’m watching all of Mr.O’s videos. And I have to say sometimes the work can be a bit complex. But regardless working on cars at least to me is always fun. No matter the complexity of the work involved.
Eric O teaches the number 1 rule of fixing cars and anything else you never assume anything you always test until you know then you can find the problem I was taught that in 1985 and been fixing cars everyday since then it's not hard and the number 2 rule is just because a part is brand new doesn't mean it's a good part live by those 2 rules and you can fix anything that comes in
I'm so embarrassed, after watching many of your brake jobs I was feeling lazy and had a shop do it for me. It's a small shop so the owner allowed me to watch the job...What a lousy job they did in comparison to the brake jobs you do. They didn't pull the caliper bracket, look for holes in the rubber boots, or clean them up so, now I'm going to have to do the job myself like I should have done in the first place. Thank you for showing how to do a proper brake job. I learned my lesson the hard way. Thank you again for making good quality great video's.
Can't wait for the rest of project Hyundai. While I was watching it my lady friend calls. Her nephew needs a brake job on his Ford Focus. Pass the biscuits Eric the gravy train is coming my way.
Don't forget to pump up the brakes before you try to back it out of the shop, haha. You know bad things happen if you don't, unless of course you can grab the park brake quick enough. Seeing all that rust reminds me of a funny story. Back in the day at the dealership we replaced an exhaust resonator that was leaking, warranty department kept rejecting the claim because of "parts cost was excessive". We had to cut off three nuts/studs by the pipe flange and put new ones in, they kept telling us we could have reused the old ones. We said, that ain't happening because they looked like rust barnacles on the Titanic.
Seized outside pad or seized pin. Yep, always learn somethin' new. Thanks again Eric.
I find that bicycle pedal spanners are ideal for holding slider pins whilst you tighten up the screws.
That's a great tip I'm guessing there metric too!
Used to have a couple thin ones-- tappet wrenches. Don't know where they are now.
Or just grind down some cheap-o Hazard Fraught wrenches
I worked on industrial equipment for forty three we used Kano Silikoil by the Five gallon can only thing that would work for us. Sometime around 2000’s the oil changed it didn’t work as good, they changed something in it but still worked good, Thanks you the great videos stay safe
I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with a 3.3 V6 the first engine for that year, and I just replaced all my wheelbearings all four hubs, dust protectors, rotors and brake pads, also I replaced all four struts, I do believe that’s a 3.3 L engine that Hyundai produced in 2007 is one of the best Engines produced, all in all it was a long day oh yeah one other thing I had to drill for the balls out because they were definitely frozen in place or should I say rusted in place, no head to the left to attach a wrench, anyway thanks for another great video I really enjoy watching your channel and you get a lot of helpful tips years ago I probably would have never attempted to do this myself and I am saying this honestly that if “I can do it, you can do it” (punt intended)...!!!
Hey Eric, I'm the guy from Bath you aligned the back tires on my '07 Galant. I know couldn't have been to do as some of the adjustment mysteriously disappeared and you were ale to straighten them. 5,000 miles on new tires and they were down to wires, lol. Anyway I saw the title and said, What another brake job and passed over it a couple times. And then tonight, I said, What the heck, might learned just something new. While watching the video I remembered I have wanted to take my brakes apart, clean everything up replace anything needed. Been 5 yrs. but only 10.000 miles, but with this climate, just gotta do it. So it was an excellent refresher course. Kinda funny in a way where you have to address the comments while doing the job but I learn so much. Can be so many little steps in the processes we do daily. I was a coder in college where you have to account for each and every step. I had this one program a couple pages long that was driving me nuts until I found I needed a period mark somewhere. That's a big reason why I don't code yet learned so much in so many ways. I thought of a little saying per se, 'What I don't know, I haven't yet learned'. Just a thought, not sure if I'm the first to say it but just binged and nothing came up.
Thanks again, Eric.
Hello Eric I am from Egypt And i like all your videos you are a great man and i nearly have watched all of your videos ❤❤
Always love a good video in the am, coffee, cars and Mr. O
Nothing like, Sherlock (Mechanic of Auto) in the morning eh.
I'm always amazed at the amount of rust you all "experience"! Glad to I live in an area that doesn't have this issue, so soon. Shout out to Northern Idaho. 😁
Kroil so good that both wheel bearings came out after spraying just 1 side!
Recently did the front pads on my 2002 Windstar. Pushed the pistons back without bleeding...turned the fluid in the master cylinder dark brown. Knew better, but after listening to brake videos on the practice, got lazy and took a chance. Won't be pushing contaminated brake fluid back into the system next time. Got to get out there and bleed now...looking forward to a lighter shade of master cylinder contents ;)
I feel your pain and frustration with rust. We have it all to well here in Michigan as well.
@6:52 I was introduced to Kroil Oil in the power plant boilers but we let it soak for a while. I can see where you don't have the time to wait for it. I think for DIY guys that take their time there is a benefit to it. We were dealing with thermally stressed 'dogs' on boiler door that cycled from ambient to 1600-1800F. I see you getting these crazy salt-belt seized bolts/nuts off with quality tools, impressive.
Yeah 20 seconds is not long enough for penetrating oils to work...
I still like my home brew of atf and acetone. Living in Minnesota, crust is life! I squirt the mix on, then go have lunch and give it time to work. Come back from lunch, no longer hangry and fasteners move. Good times.
My 2005 Malibu is now up to 267k miles on the original wheel bearings and they have zero rust. Not even surface rust. I love Denver, CO
Project...yes ,If you build it
(Or repair it) they will come..SMA
Super Man of Automotive😎
The last time I saw some lube on a rubber gloved hand, well you older gentleman get what I’m saying.
Exactly. Bend over and be sure to get your differential checked yearly.
All the pentrating oils work awesome, when it's your own vehicle you've sprayed 3 or 4 times every day before you work on them lol
I have tried making my own from a few suggestions online. 50/50 ATF fluid and acetone works even better than the can stuff imo.
Love your channel.
"I believe... Who ever smelt it, dealt it"... Lol. I know where you heard that one.. Good ole LTCG.. Thanks Eric! This is probably the 101st brake video I've seen from you, but you never no what your gonna get. Enjoy em all...
One of my favorite channels!
I really appreciate the time you take to give us "home mechanics", the tips for our projects. The wrapping the tape around a small socket for tight places, is great, used it yesterday.
When displaying the first dust shield part number, I saw "RH" on it and started yelling, "No, Eric, That's the one for the other side!" But you didn't hear me. I guess my voice doesn't quite carry from between Syracuse and Auburn.
You should've called him on his office phone and left a few messages letting him know that fact. :-)
Hey there fellow Central NYer! I’m in Syracuse myself.
And the second one ended in DS
@@ryansauto93 Albany here..you have all the good pick and pulls in central NY! None here.
yup.. yelling at monitor was ineffective [enfield ny here] we gotta stop meetin like this
As a DIY, you’ve explained what to look for and understand the “mechanics” of the uneven wearing of the brakes. Without your determination, an individual whose not mechanically sound, would go with what a scrupulous repair shop and pay for parts not needed... so please continue with your detailed process on all.
Another great video with a wonderfully humourous commentary about rust and the virtues of penetrating oil. Thanks Eric - your videos are great entertainment especially for amateur mechanics.
What idiot gives Eric O. thumbs down on his vijeos? This guy is the best male entertainer on RUclips hands down! 👍👍
SMA video while on vacation! Also, Free Tip Thursday, Make sure to use Wrench Lite on you caliper slide pins. Just as strong as Original Wrench, but not as full bodied.
As far as penetrating fluids go, I use PB's Fabulous B'Laster... but there is one caveat to these products: no product I've seen or used will penetrate under a tightened bolt head! You have to be able to see or access the threaded portion of the bolt! It works particularly well on seized nuts... I was able to remove the downpipes on both sides of a 27 year old Buick 350 with considerable rust. All 4 nuts came off intact by spraying the studs down with B'Laster and waiting about 15-20 minutes!
My and my brother realy enjoy watching your videos 😉.
Keep Up The good work 👍. Greetings from Slovenia 🇸🇮. :-D
There is another reason one side wears out faster than the other. I have seen the opposite side caliper piston and/or pins seized up, so the side that's worn out is the one doing all the work, which usually presents with a brake pull first.
I first saw Kano-Kroil products back in ancient times when I worked at a paper mill. We called it “Holy Water”.
Good video! I really prefer a video that is not staged. Watching how you work through the problems as they occur in most interesting.
I just need to see SMA to know I'm going to watch the video! 😁😁😁😁
Instead of using your finger or the brush for the silicone grease, you can use a popsicle stick to spread the grease, then toss it out to avoid cross-contamination. You can get a 100-pack at Dollar Tree. Or save them after your kids have ice cream or popsicles.
Eric - thanks for the calibration! Now I know that my "Urghh" = 72 ft lbs 😎
Definitely nice to have a parts store with no hassle returns! Wish our parts department was like that..
Great video Eric looking forward to the next in this series of Korean marvel! 👍
i coarse wire-wheel the bolts past housing as best I can, then run the impact in/out is much shorter bursts spray lube in both side. it damages threads less overall that way if your reusing parts.
which for me is as often as possible
I’m not an expert but I think that opening on the dust shield is because the bolt ear on the hub happens to line up with that area for the brake calliper where it’s cut at an angle right by the ear (otherwise they would just go out further like the other three...) unless that is actually to give it somewhere to recess down to when spinning it, I wasn’t paying attention
Love watching you work Eric, you're a brilliant mechanic. I wish we had mechs this good in the UK... which is why I do all my own wrenching.
I want to buy a hoodie but can only see pull over and not zip up type?
I'd love one too. And stickers. Where are the stickers eric?
We do have good mechanics in the UK , it's just that Joe public doesn't want to pay us properly , and would rather listen to some guy in the pub who once changed a wheel bearing on a 1964 Ford Anglia , our job is nowadays highly skilled, and technologically challenging , do do our job , you need both the gear and the idea , not all tradesmen or tradeswomen are the same 🇬🇧👍
I'm glad you said that we are Americans and working is entertainment it is a must for 98% of the American people
Interesting the bearing came off so easily. I worked on my ATV this weekend, I had to use the torch and the Astro hub puller to get off first the spindle, then the knuckle and neither had nowhere near that level of corrosion on them.
I used a wire brush and the dremel to get the splines as clean as possible, put on anti seize and put them back ok.
I love watching the guys on the Hoonigan channel in Cali..."oh we got some pretty bad rust here on this...better spray it down" ( spray one drop of WD-40) then take everything apart by hand.
The chaps on MightyCarMods do the same... They're in Sydney, Australia. Not idea what rust is lmao But you know why right? *Sponsored* Bit dub to use something and make out it works when we really know it doesn't, all to just satisfy the sponsor and dupe the viewers
A few weeks ago somewhere online, someone posted a picture of a slightly rusted exhaust bolt contemplating how they were going to get it off because it was a bit rusty. You could still make out the shape of the nut. Call me when it's just a glob of rust and something that might have been a stud or bolt poking through.
As a 09 Santa Fe owner I am very excited about this :)
Excellent job Eric. Nice to see a pro in action. I'd love you to work on my 90 vette but I'm in Texas.
Fun fact, that cast piece in the rear brake disc backing plates to retain the parking brake shoes... Toyota have been doing that for decades, and on their older vehicles the backing plates are WICKED expensive. On my '94 Celica GT-Four they are impossible to find, Toyota are completely out of them and you have to use second hand ones from a wrecker if and when they rust and need to be replaced.
What a thorough job Eric, I wish I lived close to your shop. I would only bring my cars to you.
Just seen you going through what needs to be done on this car and I just had to watch it.
I made a S hook for the spare tire and it worked good , you had to get your spare before lifting your car .
Ahhhh rust! I'm originally from the NE Ohio snow / rust belt. Now i'm living in South Carolina Upstate.I DON'T MISS IT !!!
We've nick named that Aerokroil "Mechanic in a can" swear by it ! Works best if it can soak for 15 minutes or so, needs time to creep. And for really bad stuff, overnight never fails.
Green gloves, black gloves, and white gloves all in one video. I don't know why that made me smile a little, like what the heck?
Another great video. You are the best car mechanic on RUclips. There are however, no great heavy truck mechanics on RUclips. Put some pressure on your brother to start making videos.
Man, I gotta say I really really appreciate living in cali after watchign your videos. SOOOOOO much rust on everything, no matter its age. Some of the cars you work on, I'd be scared to touch
Thing I've tried when you CAN access the threads, is to coat it in never seize. I know, I know it gets everywhere but if it works do it
Good old never sneeze! Use it a lot...
Neverseize is awesome does exactly that,
As always Erico comes through for a win and gives a great explanation for stuff that most people wouldn't even talk about which is good mechanicing thanks Eric great video stay safe stay well and as always God bless
Another good video. Hyundai and Kia seem to have more issues than most with uneven pad wear with some models needing new pads at relatively low mileages.
Kroil is also great for cleaning boomsticks, both the shoulder mounted and handheld varieties. Just make sure to wipe it all out as it makes a terrible lubricant lol (melts carbon away!)
Watched this video after watching a few of Steve at Simply Diagnostics. I could feel my brain twist adjusting to the lack of a Cheshire accent. Kinda like an ice headache but different.
New York winters sure do a job on the undercarriage of cars.
Those sway links come from the factory loose (not really but it seemed that way) I did so many under warranty when I worked at a Hyundai dealer. Also the rear brakes would seize up after one winter (Buffalo, Avoca is pretty much the same)
I totally agree about brick and mortar part stores, we should support them whenever possible. Those guys are a life send if you don't want to sit on a partially fixed inoperative vehicle for a week. NAPA offer good service by techs who seem to know something about the industry. One local part store (Lordco), dramatically inflates their prices for walk in amateurs, which can be annoying.
So does O'R. I needed a vacuum cap and the assortment at O'R was $6 and change. The same vacuum cap assortment in different packaging was $2.15 at Manny, Moe and Jack's
Glad to see another brake video. Good content as always. I was concerned the "Rona" might have gotten to you since we hadn't seen you for a few days. Happy you're well.
Founder member of the Bronze Hammer Fan Club here. It needs its own sound. Something epic, Nordic, blasting.
This Is definitely going to be one big juicy Repair bills
Another great and instructive video. I was totally astounded how easy that bearing came out. Wow.
I always enjoy your sharp attention to detail, safety matters first.
A smacked Mush with a spanner is a good way to learn not to pull it towards you :-D
Great job on battling more crusty stuff.
My previous vehicle had a seized caliper piston that was causing the inboard pad to wear prematurely. The piston itself was pitted. I don't know how much air pressure it took to get that piston to pop out, but it was a LOT!
Nice job on those brakes. Keep up the great work!
Was wondering where SMA was hiding these past few days lol..... now let the Dr do his work. 👍
i miss the fluid film sheep '' baaa'' cracks me up every time