i probably already commented on this video, but thanks for this!! i just disassembled and reassembled one of my cut away locks, 6 pin, adding two spools and two serrated, while keeping two standards in the bible. i will say this much, good thing i have a magnifying lamp ( has to have corrective lenses @ times ) and sweaty hands made it a little more difficult than desired. i will definitely check out more of the videos you share of other sport lockers and once again, thank you !!!
@@HelpfulLockPicker yes sir! i will do. i know that i like the feed back of the serrated pins and i will start swapping out some of the standard driver pins in my other two 6 pin cutaways i have and then make my way onto the learn lock picking 7 pin adversary. i really haven't messed with the padlocks in awhile, the brinks 50mm, the master lockm1xdlh and master lock m1xdblf. i will go back to your 10 locks list and probably see what i can locate at some of the local stores in hopes of getting a better deal on them. i saw a good idea where i may put out an ad to buy locks with or without keys at a certain amount a pound and see if that does well on getting some of those for a decent time frame. i do plan on buying some more of the 7 pin adversaries to make mods to them to practice with that i have seen others use in challenge locks. i have had a little more time to practice picking since i am between employers for now, but should be completing the on boarding process with the new employer hopefully within the next week or two. it's fairly easy to get employed in the tower industry, the work is definitely out there. if i have any questions or put together a good challenge lock for you i will give you a heads up. stay well, stay safe and stay sane!
Nice video! (I already learned how to launch the springs the first time I tried this - too bad I didn't see this video first!). One thing I'd add - you might need to depress that pin to start turning the cap off on the American lock. And when putting the cap back on, be sure to tweak the position so the locking pin ends up in a notch to prevent it from coming loose.
Greetings! I have a couple of cheap, 25mm padlocks (basically luggage locks) and want the cores out of them for a jewelry project. Is there a way to remove them? Destructively I imagine is the only way, which is fine as long as I can get the core. If not, is it possible to purchase cores that small, and if so from where? Thanks! Love your channel! Been hooked for weeks now!
I was surprised that you managed to unscrew the retaining cap from the rear of the Schlage lock without first depressing the spring-loaded anti-unscrew pin. That's tricky to do without launching the pin across the room and you might want to splice that in or add it to the end of the video.
@@UKcuber if you are dealing with a lock with all standard driver pins likely not. Here are a few examples where it can make a difference. Some locks with standard pins which are more expensive do have driver pins length that corresponds to the key pin so switching them would de optimize their placement. Also, once you get to security pins (especially spools) if you place them over too long a keypin they can be less effective
alxo seen they have some othr nice things so put in an order imclududing a few things ive seen you use, and the brit pound conversion doesnt work out bad at all cheeers buddy
excellent and clearly methodically taught.when I first tried this I sneezed and everything went everywhere 👍👍👍🥇🏆🔑🔐🔒🔓🍺 I still dont know why its called a bible.
@@HelpfulLockPicker Thank you Strange looking book but why chose the bible l.o.l. The lock bible is the part of the lock cylinder assembly that consists of: The bottom pins The top pins Any and all master pins (master wafers) The pin stack spring (This and the previous line items constitute the pin stack) The drilled chambers that hold each pin stack - four (4) to seven (7) drilled chambers in each lock cylinder. A locksmith refers to this total number of items and the drilled holes in the lock cylinder they rest in as the lock bible. the information from www.apexaccesssecurity.com/what-is-a-lock-bible/
What if, when putting the lock back together, the springs are too long, sticking out of the holes, so there is no room to align and rest a driver pin in each hole?
@@HelpfulLockPicker Having some trouble with this. I got a set of hollow plug followers - does the flat backing in the groove of a solid one make a difference in allowing you to rest the pins on the back, or should it not really matter?
xderiwx A tighter fit is best. To be extra careful you could use a core shim or make one yourself by extracting the small pieces of metal out of the security tags in DVD cases
![[79] How To Start To Transition Away From Practice Locks](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XJ3CR3ejimg/mqdefault.jpg)
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Nice info if someone want to take their first lock apart.
Thank you for the kind words, I hope it helps!
I relly think it do😁
i probably already commented on this video, but thanks for this!! i just disassembled and reassembled one of my cut away locks, 6 pin, adding two spools and two serrated, while keeping two standards in the bible. i will say this much, good thing i have a magnifying lamp ( has to have corrective lenses @ times ) and sweaty hands made it a little more difficult than desired. i will definitely check out more of the videos you share of other sport lockers and once again, thank you !!!
Thank you for the kind words and I am glad it helps! If you have any questions feel free to ask :)
@@HelpfulLockPicker yes sir! i will do. i know that i like the feed back of the serrated pins and i will start swapping out some of the standard driver pins in my other two 6 pin cutaways i have and then make my way onto the learn lock picking 7 pin adversary. i really haven't messed with the padlocks in awhile, the brinks 50mm, the master lockm1xdlh and master lock m1xdblf. i will go back to your 10 locks list and probably see what i can locate at some of the local stores in hopes of getting a better deal on them. i saw a good idea where i may put out an ad to buy locks with or without keys at a certain amount a pound and see if that does well on getting some of those for a decent time frame. i do plan on buying some more of the 7 pin adversaries to make mods to them to practice with that i have seen others use in challenge locks. i have had a little more time to practice picking since i am between employers for now, but should be completing the on boarding process with the new employer hopefully within the next week or two. it's fairly easy to get employed in the tower industry, the work is definitely out there. if i have any questions or put together a good challenge lock for you i will give you a heads up. stay well, stay safe and stay sane!
I should have watched this before making my own cutaway
Thank you for checking it out. I hope it all worked out in the long run
Nice video! (I already learned how to launch the springs the first time I tried this - too bad I didn't see this video first!). One thing I'd add - you might need to depress that pin to start turning the cap off on the American lock. And when putting the cap back on, be sure to tweak the position so the locking pin ends up in a notch to prevent it from coming loose.
With American locks I typically turn the lock to the counterclockwise position and then the follower will line up perfectly with the actuator
Greetings!
I have a couple of cheap, 25mm padlocks (basically luggage locks) and want the cores out of them for a jewelry project. Is there a way to remove them? Destructively I imagine is the only way, which is fine as long as I can get the core.
If not, is it possible to purchase cores that small, and if so from where?
Thanks! Love your channel! Been hooked for weeks now!
You would probably need to cut it open with a dremel
Video yang sangat bermanfaat bagi saya.. Bro
Thank you
Very informative nicely paced tutorial
Tipene Nga Puhi Thank you for the kind words!
I got what looks like a small washer with a hole for the spring loaded pin, what do you do with that
It could have come off the tail piece
Helpful lock picker, how would I open a clear acrylic door lock
I would need to have one in front of me to try it out but unfortunately I don't have one
No worries. You re still the absolute best
I was surprised that you managed to unscrew the retaining cap from the rear of the Schlage lock without first depressing the spring-loaded anti-unscrew pin. That's tricky to do without launching the pin across the room and you might want to splice that in or add it to the end of the video.
Thanks for checking it out! I sometimes use the Schlafe tool. It really sucks when you lose those tiny pins/ spings
Am I correct in thinking that swapping which pin is where for the driver pins is fine?
I am sorry but I don't understand what you were asking
@@HelpfulLockPicker swapping the 2nd driver pin for the 3rd for example
@@UKcuber if you are dealing with a lock with all standard driver pins likely not.
Here are a few examples where it can make a difference. Some locks with standard pins which are more expensive do have driver pins length that corresponds to the key pin so switching them would de optimize their placement. Also, once you get to security pins (especially spools) if you place them over too long a keypin they can be less effective
@@HelpfulLockPicker thanks for your help
Lots of information
Denny Skerb Thank you, I hope it helped :)
Hi Doug can i sak where did you get the rubber matt from got the pin tray on order now thanks to ebay but do love that matt
You can buy it from Sparrow Lock Picks in Canada. Just Google "Sparrow Lock Picks"
ordered thanks so much
alxo seen they have some othr nice things so put in an order imclududing a few things ive seen you use, and the brit pound conversion doesnt work out bad at all cheeers buddy
Awesome video buddy! 👍👍
I hope all is well with you
excellent and clearly methodically taught.when I first tried this I sneezed and everything went everywhere 👍👍👍🥇🏆🔑🔐🔒🔓🍺 I still dont know why its called a bible.
It is because in a key-in-knob (KIK) cylinder type lock it sort of looks like a book
@@HelpfulLockPicker Thank you Strange looking book but why chose the bible l.o.l. The lock bible is the part of the lock cylinder assembly that consists of:
The bottom pins
The top pins
Any and all master pins (master wafers)
The pin stack spring (This and the previous line items constitute the pin stack)
The drilled chambers that hold each pin stack - four (4) to seven (7) drilled chambers in each lock cylinder.
A locksmith refers to this total number of items and the drilled holes in the lock cylinder they rest in as the lock bible. the information from www.apexaccesssecurity.com/what-is-a-lock-bible/
What if, when putting the lock back together, the springs are too long, sticking out of the holes, so there is no room to align and rest a driver pin in each hole?
It just takes more patience sometimes you can hold them with pinning tweezers and push them down with a pick
@@HelpfulLockPicker Having some trouble with this. I got a set of hollow plug followers - does the flat backing in the groove of a solid one make a difference in allowing you to rest the pins on the back, or should it not really matter?
What if I don’t know which is first second third fourth fifth sixth and seventh pins
I would use the key and see how the match up when you insert it into the plug.
You can also measure your pins if you are not sure which pin is which
Great vide my friend cool info😎😎😎👍😊😊😊😊
Leon's lockpad thank you for the kind words :-)
Anyone have recommendations for DIY items for a plug follower while I wait to purchase some? This would be for a Sargent mortise lock.
xderiwx Some people use wooden dowels and Sharpie Markers, whatever fits.
HelpfulLockPicker Thanks! Got some Sharpies! Is it okay if the plug follower is a little smaller in diameter, or does it need to be nearly exact?
xderiwx A tighter fit is best. To be extra careful you could use a core shim or make one yourself by extracting the small pieces of metal out of the security tags in DVD cases
HelpfulLockPicker Sharpie is a bit smaller than my lock. I'll keep looking. Thanks for the tip on the core shim!