Great video, I think this is the most comprehensive video about thrips and nepenthes I've seen. There is a lot of mystery online about which sprays and stuff are safe to use with nepenthes. I've had thrips as well, and I wanted to mention that pyrethrin worked on the thrips, but if you're growing sarracenia as well then you shouldn't spray them with pyrethrin because it discolors the pitchers and hurts the plant. It won't kill the plant, but if it's already getting beat up my thrips using pyrethrin won't help any. I had a lot of success using spinosad as well, but what really solved my thrips problem was a systemic pesticide called "systemic houseplant insect control" with the active ingredient of imidacloprid. I used it on everything (nepenthes and sarracenia) and it cleared up the thrips. It does take time, and I was simultaniously spraying with spinosad as well, but it worked for me. Follow the directions on the container for how much to use. Can confirm they are both safe and effective with nepenthes/sarracenia
Raise your hand if after this video you immediately went to carefully inspect your plants, because you swear you saw some small white thingy on it recently. **raises hand**
The ones I just found some look white and some look darker. Idk if it’s thrips or fungus knots or something else. Seems like the adults fly. I wanted my peace Lilly with 3% hydrogen peroxide 1/3 part. But I still see them moving around. Idk lol I’m a new plant mom so I’m just learning about all this
Another effective way to deal with thrips is by increasing your humidity to nearly above 90%…those pests will naturally disappear😄 My villosa has been suffering thrips for the last couple of months, coz I sealed it in a plastic bag. And where I grow these plants ( in a refrigerator actually ) somehow has a much different working theory. I used to have the thought that it could maintain the humidity but it turns out to the opposite. With the lack of evapotranspiration while the machine’s working, the humidity is decreasing so thrips found the leaves might have been the best place to inhabit. So after doing everything I can to raise the humidity, finally did I get rid of those bastards.
Thank you. I just thought I had dust or dirt. I'm fairly new (about a year) plant owner. Didn't know about bugs. Put every plant outside this summer in shade and they flourished. Brought them in and yep thrips.
It's a toss up between thrips and fungus gnats for the worst pest for me. I've had both do massive damage to plants in the past. The biggest tip here is treat soon as possible and hit them HARD!
I battled a small thrips infestation on two N. Deroose alata for a couple of months. I started with 7 to 10 day intervals between traitments, alternating between end-all, horticultural oil and insecticidal soap, with limited success. The infection was greatly reduced but a new generation of thrips kept re-emerging. I ended up winning with just insecticidal soap every 4 days. I would submerge the plant completely in a solution (plant, pot, substrate and all) for 15-20 seconds, Then let the plant sit, and drip for 30 minutes. Then I would rinse the plant with rain water thoroughly, empty the pichers, rinse, refill the pitchers with rain water. Monitored with sticky traps a hole months to make sure they were pest free before putting the back with the other. Aside from losing some pichers, the plants suffered no ill effect from the treatments.
I am so glad I follow your channel, I just saw an adult thrip crawling in the sphagnum of my extra small nepenthes!!! I don't see any larvae or leaf damage yet so hopefully I can save my baby nepenthes in time. Thanks to this video I knew what I needed to buy and I just ordered a bottle of Captain Jack's dead bug brew which should arrive tomorrow. Thanks, Remy!
1 tea spoon of Baking Soda in a spray bottle, add a few drops of dish washing liquid, not much, pests begone...(add a few drops of white oil if you have some too. Hell, I've used a quick squirt of bug spray in a litre of water before, works great too.)
I made the mistake of using predatory mites on my house plant's to control fungus gnats. I was having really bad fungus gnat problems & I stumbled across these predatory Hypsoaspis mites on ebay which were apparently going to kill the fungus gnat larvae breaking the life cycle, the mites will reproduce until they kill all of the fungus gnat larvae & then once their food runs out they would die in a few weeks "supposedly" so I thought they aren't that expensive so what's the harm. What I didn't realise until after I used them & did further research is their list of potential prey is quite large, they didn't do a great job controlling the fungus gnats so I have to resort to mosquito bits instead, but now I have an added pest constantly causing me problems getting into things I don't want them in & that pest is the Hypsoaspis mites which have become part of the general ecosystem in my flat due to the fact they will prey on springtails (among other things...) & I have springtails I introduced to a house plant & they spread to all my house plants & so the mites spread to all my house plants. I also keep invertibrates like tarantulas, giant centipedes, assassin bug's, hissing cockroaches & many many more things that live in tanks with soil to which I introduce springtails to help keep them clean so the mites are in them all eating the springtails that I want left alive! I keep springtail cultures to keep ready supplies of springtails I need & Hypsoaspis mites keep finding their way into my culture's - each time I find they've invaded ANOTHER culture my heart just sinks because I have to pretty much toss the whole thing out because you can't get them out again without disposing of the whole contents! I wouldn't mind so much if they carried out the job they were obtained for successfully but I still have fungus gnat breakouts all over the place. Such a muck up... Just be careful anyone using those things, fully appreciate what the end result might be & are the consequences long term worth it. They don't need particularly moist conditions to thrive & they will travel vast distances inside your flat to find what they see as better hunting grounds.
Did you check to see how long the nematodes stayed alive in the pots? And the mites on the plants? I was wondering if using nematodes and mites on certain times in the year could help maintain the plants pest free for longer periods, but I assume the products you bought won’t stay alive for very long? Just wondering if it would be doable to buy a package say every 3 months or so if it is not too expensive. Would be worth it for me every spring at least, there is always at least 1 pest to find its way in and unfortunately it is usually thrips
That's a good question 🤔 but nematodes are way too small to see them. I guess once they've eaten all the thrips and fungus gnats in the soil they will die.
Hi Nice Video and good Guide against Thrips. In Germany u can buy little Bags with Predatory Mites, wich u can hang on Your Nepenthes and Orchids and all Plants. It works good when there are no Heavy Invasion on the Plants - then only Insecticide can do it. But it is always hard to find the best Mix, so u Kill the Thrips and not the Plant with the Insecticide. I Use these little bags all 2-3 Month in germany 1 little bag is 1 Euro that´s Expensive if u got many Plants but its a lot Cheaper than Buy a lot of new Plants. In Summer if u can Manage it, Higher Humidity will also help to Prevent Thrips invasion they cant Hold themselves under the Leaves so they Leave the Plants fast in Combination with Predatory Mites they like higher Humidity oder Dry they dont realy Care. Thrips are also Called "Gewitter Tierchen" in Germany they Live in the Air everywhere, sometimes u can spot them on your skin if u walk outside and it is short bevore it rains (the Little Black insekts- but these are only the Adult´s), there are so much Diffrent Versions of them with diffrent colours but they all damage Plants. If u open a Window after oder Bevore a Nice cold thunder - Rain u will get them 100% in your house. Ok maybe my translations are not so good but i think it work´s. Mario from germany
3days ago I recently experienced this pest on my newly transplant Gaya young basals. I'm wondering why the new crown leaves deforming, I thought at first it's from a misused coffee fertilizer I tried for the first time, but it turns out it was a small white thrips the cause. After applying bioadvance my pitcher recovered & the pest been eliminate so far. Still the damage leaves can't recovered, that's why it's best to be prepared for pest prevention per month.
I wish I had seen this video 2 months ago. I experienced the same symptoms in my cabinet with my nepenthes. So far I’ve done 2 applications of Bayer BioAdvanced 3 in 1 spray. It uses imidacloprid which is a systemic pesticide. I’m doing neem oil this weekend. Your videos are always very helpful!
Hi Remy. I think I had thrips on a Cephalotus "Big Boy" (could have been mealy bugs). I still have the pictures. They were microscopic. It looked like specks of white fluff. In the UK (and I assume Europe) there is a thing called Provanto Ultimate Bug Killer (deltamethrin) which I used. The noncarnivorous leaves were deformed and it was not pitchering. I sprayed for a few weeks and they were gone and did not spread. Cheers Adam
Hi, I bought Some orchids maybe a Year ago and i Seperate them from the other Plants for 2 Weeks or so. Then i thought Everything is ok, let´s put them to the Heliamphora section. The Orchids i have love the Sunlight too. 4 Weeks or so later i Spot on some Heliamphora Flower Spikes the White Fluff and the Orchid Leaves in the middle too. Now after a long fight i can say for me "mealy Bugs" (Wollläuse in germany) are the worst Pest ever they Reproduce everywhere and don´t care if its Hot or cold or Wet or Dry. I bought some Insecticide and test it on my Orchid and yes the Orchids are gone. maybe i used it in too high Concentration i dont know. The Heliamphora is alive, I use Australian Lady Bugs at the Start they do a good job but they only live 3 weeks or so then u have a lot of them in the Traps. I used Treeoil for a Time but it just helps to bring them to run away from the Plant but they ever came back. then i use Neem Oil 6ml mixed with 300ml RO Water, that would work with normal Room Plants said the Seller. But i tryed it on the Heliamphora and is still alive but get Brown parts where it hit the Plant. So i dont know if it will help for Carnivorus Plants. Maybe someone Know a better Neem-oil - Water Mix for Carnivorus Plants wich is effektiv on Pests and dont Damage the Plant. Mario From Germany
@@peteruk8925 thanks I did think it was a possibility. I had to take a good in-focus picture on my phone and then zoom in on the picture on my computer. They consisted of white things and brown/grey things. They were about the length of the hairs on the noncarnivorous leaves (less than a millimeter) of a Cephalotus. None of them looked like the picture of the typical adult you see on the internet which is why I was so confused. But like you said the spray worked quickly. I was so surprised how a thing you can hardly see had so much of an impact. Cheers Adam
How do you know the difference between thrips and fungus gnats,? I’m a new plant mom and finally got a good little collection. My peace lily isn’t doing great but there’s so many in the dirt it’s completely infested but I don’t see really any on the leaves
I use Safer's End All as a general purpose insecticide. It's worked well for spider mites, thrips, aphids, etc. It doesn't have as high a concentration of pyrethrin as an insecticide where pyrethrins are the only active ingredient, but it contains an insecticidal soap component also. Both insecticidal soap and pyrethrins are contact insecticides, so it works quite well to kill insects that may be resistant to pyrethrins alone. You can also buy End All concentrate and mix it up to whatever concentration you like. I use it to treat any nepenthes or other plant that's coming into my house to prevent them from bringing pests along.
@@WindowsillNepenthes Yes, End all works fine on thrips. I recommend using combination insecticides such as insecticidal soap + pyrethrin, or insecticidal soap + azadirachtin over a single insecticide treatment since it's able to kill pests with some resistance to either insecticide alone. I also recommend doing multiple applications of insecticide every 5 to 10 days for a month or so even if the pests are no longer visible after a single treatment. This helps prevent any survivors from establishing more resistant populations.
Nice new video! My Platychila x Robcantleyi has suddenly started losing quite a few of its leaves and pitchers. Do you have any idea what could be causing this? I did recently report all of my plants, but the soil stayed the same as I was just moving them into square pots and no other plants have showed any symptoms, including my cephalotus which realy hates repots.
Is there a good way to kill them without insecticides? The plant is in my room and I keep ants so I need to make sure they won’t be harmed. Would dilute soap work?
Can I use diamaticous earth? To kill thrips? I used it to kill bed bugs in the past, a small centipede, black worms and flies in the trash in the summer.
Just found that I have thrips on pretty much all of my plants. It doesn't seem like a full infestation yet, luckily. Only one of my Alocasia showed signs. I'm going for full biological warfare, since I'm not a fan of spraying toxic chemicals in my living room. Besides that, I have bushy Epipremnums that are impossible to fully spray.
I freaking hate thrips! But I have battled them enough times by now that I am pretty good at eradicating them. If you don't have access to a systemic pesticide or you don't want to spray stuff on your plants, you can use predatory mites to deal with them but you have to choose the right species and you have to apply them properly. Essentially, you need Anystis baccarum mites and Neoseiulus cucumeris mites. A baccarum are fast and voracious and will eat thrips between juvenile and adult stages. N cucumeris specializes in eating first instar larvae as they emerge from the plant tissue where the eggs are laid. You will need to follow up with more N cucumeris mites for a couple months afterward to make sure there are absolutely no thrips left. If the infestation is really bad, I will spray with orthene or imidacloprid and then apply N cucumeris mites about 10 days later and every 2 weeks after that.
@@WindowsillNepenthes is there a way to contact you besides here to see if what’s going on with mine is thrips or damage from low humidity? Edit: Found your public insta, nevermind.
Yes, they are awful pest! I have them and they almost killed my only nepenthes. Good thing I noticed it. I didn't know nepenthes could be affected by pest like thrips. The pinguicula is ok
Great video, I think this is the most comprehensive video about thrips and nepenthes I've seen. There is a lot of mystery online about which sprays and stuff are safe to use with nepenthes. I've had thrips as well, and I wanted to mention that pyrethrin worked on the thrips, but if you're growing sarracenia as well then you shouldn't spray them with pyrethrin because it discolors the pitchers and hurts the plant. It won't kill the plant, but if it's already getting beat up my thrips using pyrethrin won't help any. I had a lot of success using spinosad as well, but what really solved my thrips problem was a systemic pesticide called "systemic houseplant insect control" with the active ingredient of imidacloprid. I used it on everything (nepenthes and sarracenia) and it cleared up the thrips. It does take time, and I was simultaniously spraying with spinosad as well, but it worked for me. Follow the directions on the container for how much to use. Can confirm they are both safe and effective with nepenthes/sarracenia
Thanks for the information! it's the Bonide Systemic House Plant Insect Control Granules?
Wow that's a long comment :)
Thanks for the info ❤
We don’t have access to systemic pesticides in Canada.
Raise your hand if after this video you immediately went to carefully inspect your plants, because you swear you saw some small white thingy on it recently. **raises hand**
I checked mine because i cant tell if thrips or low humidity damage.
The ones I just found some look white and some look darker. Idk if it’s thrips or fungus knots or something else. Seems like the adults fly. I wanted my peace Lilly with 3% hydrogen peroxide 1/3 part. But I still see them moving around. Idk lol I’m a new plant mom so I’m just learning about all this
Another effective way to deal with thrips is by increasing your humidity to nearly above 90%…those pests will naturally disappear😄 My villosa has been suffering thrips for the last couple of months, coz I sealed it in a plastic bag. And where I grow these plants ( in a refrigerator actually ) somehow has a much different working theory.
I used to have the thought that it could maintain the humidity but it turns out to the opposite. With the lack of evapotranspiration while the machine’s working, the humidity is decreasing so thrips found the leaves might have been the best place to inhabit. So after doing everything I can to raise the humidity, finally did I get rid of those bastards.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing that!
u dont even know how much ive been searching for a thrips video on nepenthes thank u sm
I hope it will help!
Thank you. I just thought I had dust or dirt. I'm fairly new (about a year) plant owner. Didn't know about bugs. Put every plant outside this summer in shade and they flourished. Brought them in and yep thrips.
It's a toss up between thrips and fungus gnats for the worst pest for me. I've had both do massive damage to plants in the past. The biggest tip here is treat soon as possible and hit them HARD!
The nematodes should help with the fungus gnats ;)
How can you tell the difference between thrips and fungus gnats
What have fungus gnats done to harm your nepenthes? They are my small nepenthes main food source...
I battled a small thrips infestation on two N. Deroose alata for a couple of months. I started with 7 to 10 day intervals between traitments, alternating between end-all, horticultural oil and insecticidal soap, with limited success. The infection was greatly reduced but a new generation of thrips kept re-emerging. I ended up winning with just insecticidal soap every 4 days. I would submerge the plant completely in a solution (plant, pot, substrate and all) for 15-20 seconds, Then let the plant sit, and drip for 30 minutes. Then I would rinse the plant with rain water thoroughly, empty the pichers, rinse, refill the pitchers with rain water. Monitored with sticky traps a hole months to make sure they were pest free before putting the back with the other. Aside from losing some pichers, the plants suffered no ill effect from the treatments.
I'll have to try that one day :)
I am so glad I follow your channel, I just saw an adult thrip crawling in the sphagnum of my extra small nepenthes!!! I don't see any larvae or leaf damage yet so hopefully I can save my baby nepenthes in time. Thanks to this video I knew what I needed to buy and I just ordered a bottle of Captain Jack's dead bug brew which should arrive tomorrow. Thanks, Remy!
I recently had problem with thrips on my nepenthes and had no idea how to deal with them.. thx for this video!
I really hope this will help. Thrips are a hell!
I've never actually had thrips, I guess I'm just very lucky!
4:38 “literally everywhere “ made me crack up 😂 It’s like you always have punch lines in all your videos.🥊
1 tea spoon of Baking Soda in a spray bottle, add a few drops of dish washing liquid, not much, pests begone...(add a few drops of white oil if you have some too. Hell, I've used a quick squirt of bug spray in a litre of water before, works great too.)
I made the mistake of using predatory mites on my house plant's to control fungus gnats. I was having really bad fungus gnat problems & I stumbled across these predatory Hypsoaspis mites on ebay which were apparently going to kill the fungus gnat larvae breaking the life cycle, the mites will reproduce until they kill all of the fungus gnat larvae & then once their food runs out they would die in a few weeks "supposedly" so I thought they aren't that expensive so what's the harm. What I didn't realise until after I used them & did further research is their list of potential prey is quite large, they didn't do a great job controlling the fungus gnats so I have to resort to mosquito bits instead, but now I have an added pest constantly causing me problems getting into things I don't want them in & that pest is the Hypsoaspis mites which have become part of the general ecosystem in my flat due to the fact they will prey on springtails (among other things...) & I have springtails I introduced to a house plant & they spread to all my house plants & so the mites spread to all my house plants. I also keep invertibrates like tarantulas, giant centipedes, assassin bug's, hissing cockroaches & many many more things that live in tanks with soil to which I introduce springtails to help keep them clean so the mites are in them all eating the springtails that I want left alive! I keep springtail cultures to keep ready supplies of springtails I need & Hypsoaspis mites keep finding their way into my culture's - each time I find they've invaded ANOTHER culture my heart just sinks because I have to pretty much toss the whole thing out because you can't get them out again without disposing of the whole contents! I wouldn't mind so much if they carried out the job they were obtained for successfully but I still have fungus gnat breakouts all over the place. Such a muck up... Just be careful anyone using those things, fully appreciate what the end result might be & are the consequences long term worth it. They don't need particularly moist conditions to thrive & they will travel vast distances inside your flat to find what they see as better hunting grounds.
Thanks a lot for that info. That will help others for sure 👍
I used nematodes on a fungus gnat problem in all my plants last year and worked a treat. Nemasys Fruit and Veg here in the UK. Cheers Adam
Wow this has definitely convinced me to not introduce more insects into my home.
Did you check to see how long the nematodes stayed alive in the pots? And the mites on the plants? I was wondering if using nematodes and mites on certain times in the year could help maintain the plants pest free for longer periods, but I assume the products you bought won’t stay alive for very long? Just wondering if it would be doable to buy a package say every 3 months or so if it is not too expensive. Would be worth it for me every spring at least, there is always at least 1 pest to find its way in and unfortunately it is usually thrips
That's a good question 🤔 but nematodes are way too small to see them. I guess once they've eaten all the thrips and fungus gnats in the soil they will die.
Would diatomaceous earth be an effective natural defence against thrips?
Love the channel!
That would work on the soil but not on the plant... and thrips can fly... ☹
Great session. Good lecture.
Hi Nice Video and good Guide against Thrips.
In Germany u can buy little Bags with Predatory Mites, wich u can hang on Your Nepenthes and Orchids and all Plants.
It works good when there are no Heavy Invasion on the Plants - then only Insecticide can do it. But it is always hard to find the best Mix, so u Kill the Thrips and not the Plant with the Insecticide.
I Use these little bags all 2-3 Month in germany 1 little bag is 1 Euro that´s Expensive if u got many Plants but its a lot Cheaper than Buy a lot of new Plants.
In Summer if u can Manage it, Higher Humidity will also help to Prevent Thrips invasion they cant Hold themselves under the Leaves so they Leave the Plants fast in Combination with Predatory Mites they like higher Humidity oder Dry they dont realy Care.
Thrips are also Called "Gewitter Tierchen" in Germany they Live in the Air everywhere, sometimes u can spot them on your skin if u walk outside and it is short bevore it rains (the Little Black insekts- but these are only the Adult´s), there are so much Diffrent Versions of them with diffrent colours but they all damage Plants.
If u open a Window after oder Bevore a Nice cold thunder - Rain u will get them 100% in your house.
Ok maybe my translations are not so good but i think it work´s.
Mario from germany
Good tips. 😃 I think I'll try to buy some predatory mites every spring/summer.
Be careful around cats and fish. They are are very sensitive to pyrethrin. Quarantine them away when spraying and while the spray is drying.
Thanks for the info 🙂
3days ago I recently experienced this pest on my newly transplant Gaya young basals. I'm wondering why the new crown leaves deforming, I thought at first it's from a misused coffee fertilizer I tried for the first time, but it turns out it was a small white thrips the cause. After applying bioadvance my pitcher recovered & the pest been eliminate so far. Still the damage leaves can't recovered, that's why it's best to be prepared for pest prevention per month.
Happy for you 👍 which bioadvance is it? there are a few
@@WindowsillNepenthes Bioadvance 3in1 disease & mites control.
I wish I had seen this video 2 months ago. I experienced the same symptoms in my cabinet with my nepenthes. So far I’ve done 2 applications of Bayer BioAdvanced 3 in 1 spray. It uses imidacloprid which is a systemic pesticide. I’m doing neem oil this weekend.
Your videos are always very helpful!
Keep treating 1 week more than what you think you need... these little *** are resistant!
Will neem oil work for fungus gnats and thrips ?
Hi Remy. I think I had thrips on a Cephalotus "Big Boy" (could have been mealy bugs). I still have the pictures. They were microscopic. It looked like specks of white fluff. In the UK (and I assume Europe) there is a thing called Provanto Ultimate Bug Killer (deltamethrin) which I used. The noncarnivorous leaves were deformed and it was not pitchering. I sprayed for a few weeks and they were gone and did not spread. Cheers Adam
Thanks for sharing :) I'll try to see if I can find deltamethrin here in Canada
Hi, I bought Some orchids maybe a Year ago and i Seperate them from the other Plants for 2 Weeks or so.
Then i thought Everything is ok, let´s put them to the Heliamphora section. The Orchids i have love the Sunlight too.
4 Weeks or so later i Spot on some Heliamphora Flower Spikes the White Fluff and the Orchid Leaves in the middle too.
Now after a long fight i can say for me "mealy Bugs" (Wollläuse in germany) are the worst Pest ever they Reproduce everywhere and don´t care if its Hot or cold or Wet or Dry.
I bought some Insecticide and test it on my Orchid and yes the Orchids are gone. maybe i used it in too high Concentration i dont know.
The Heliamphora is alive, I use Australian Lady Bugs at the Start they do a good job but they only live 3 weeks or so then u have a lot of them in the Traps.
I used Treeoil for a Time but it just helps to bring them to run away from the Plant but they ever came back.
then i use Neem Oil 6ml mixed with 300ml RO Water, that would work with normal Room Plants said the Seller.
But i tryed it on the Heliamphora and is still alive but get Brown parts where it hit the Plant.
So i dont know if it will help for Carnivorus Plants.
Maybe someone Know a better Neem-oil - Water Mix for Carnivorus Plants wich is effektiv on Pests and dont Damage the Plant.
Mario From Germany
I believe that your ' specks of white fluff' are actually Mealybugs , but provanto will kill them and other sap sucking insects etc !
@@peteruk8925 thanks I did think it was a possibility. I had to take a good in-focus picture on my phone and then zoom in on the picture on my computer. They consisted of white things and brown/grey things. They were about the length of the hairs on the noncarnivorous leaves (less than a millimeter) of a Cephalotus. None of them looked like the picture of the typical adult you see on the internet which is why I was so confused. But like you said the spray worked quickly. I was so surprised how a thing you can hardly see had so much of an impact. Cheers Adam
How do you know the difference between thrips and fungus gnats,? I’m a new plant mom and finally got a good little collection. My peace lily isn’t doing great but there’s so many in the dirt it’s completely infested but I don’t see really any on the leaves
Fungus gnats will fly away when you touch them, Thrips will walk away ;) and with time you will recognize them immediately ;)
I use Safer's End All as a general purpose insecticide. It's worked well for spider mites, thrips, aphids, etc.
It doesn't have as high a concentration of pyrethrin as an insecticide where pyrethrins are the only active ingredient, but it contains an insecticidal soap component also. Both insecticidal soap and pyrethrins are contact insecticides, so it works quite well to kill insects that may be resistant to pyrethrins alone. You can also buy End All concentrate and mix it up to whatever concentration you like. I use it to treat any nepenthes or other plant that's coming into my house to prevent them from bringing pests along.
Did you tested the End All on thrips and managed to have them gone?
@@WindowsillNepenthes Yes, End all works fine on thrips. I recommend using combination insecticides such as insecticidal soap + pyrethrin, or insecticidal soap + azadirachtin over a single insecticide treatment since it's able to kill pests with some resistance to either insecticide alone. I also recommend doing multiple applications of insecticide every 5 to 10 days for a month or so even if the pests are no longer visible after a single treatment. This helps prevent any survivors from establishing more resistant populations.
I use Neem-oil on my regular plants to prevent. But I understand it's not safe for the spaghnum. That's to bad.
😱 my worst fear! Thank you for this very informative video! merci beaucoup!
Same. At first I didn't believe I had some.
Nice new video! My Platychila x Robcantleyi has suddenly started losing quite a few of its leaves and pitchers. Do you have any idea what could be causing this? I did recently report all of my plants, but the soil stayed the same as I was just moving them into square pots and no other plants have showed any symptoms, including my cephalotus which realy hates repots.
If it's the oldest leaves, then yes it could be the repotting but as long as the new leaves are good, it's fine ;)
@@WindowsillNepenthes it is mainly the bottom, but the lid of it's newest pitcher (on it's newest leaf), which opened a few days ago, has some damage.
Hello Rémi, very helpful! Can you do a video on the topic of nepenthes fertilization? Thank you in advance :D
Sure 👍 it's already in preparation!
Is there a good way to kill them without insecticides? The plant is in my room and I keep ants so I need to make sure they won’t be harmed. Would dilute soap work?
Use things that kill on contact like neem oil in combination with other products. ;)
Can I use diamaticous earth? To kill thrips? I used it to kill bed bugs in the past, a small centipede, black worms and flies in the trash in the summer.
But how do you put that under the leaves? On the vine? It's not easy to use
Just found that I have thrips on pretty much all of my plants. It doesn't seem like a full infestation yet, luckily. Only one of my Alocasia showed signs. I'm going for full biological warfare, since I'm not a fan of spraying toxic chemicals in my living room. Besides that, I have bushy Epipremnums that are impossible to fully spray.
Good luck! Neem oil also works in addition of other things.
I freaking hate thrips!
But I have battled them enough times by now that I am pretty good at eradicating them.
If you don't have access to a systemic pesticide or you don't want to spray stuff on your plants, you can use predatory mites to deal with them but you have to choose the right species and you have to apply them properly.
Essentially, you need Anystis baccarum mites and Neoseiulus cucumeris mites.
A baccarum are fast and voracious and will eat thrips between juvenile and adult stages.
N cucumeris specializes in eating first instar larvae as they emerge from the plant tissue where the eggs are laid.
You will need to follow up with more N cucumeris mites for a couple months afterward to make sure there are absolutely no thrips left.
If the infestation is really bad, I will spray with orthene or imidacloprid and then apply N cucumeris mites about 10 days later and every 2 weeks after that.
Thanks for that!
@Queen Aurora Yes, using both species together works best
Can I use pyrethrin concentrate mixed with distilled water on nepenthes?
Yes, if you can find it. Here in Canada, the maximum concentration is 0.5%.
@WindowsillNepenthes yikes, I found one that's 1.4!
Would you recommend buying those thrips predators if I don't have thrips?
That's what a lot of people do: preventive maintenance every 3 months. Maybe I'll do it when I have more 💰
@@WindowsillNepenthes Ok, cool. But, if I don`t have thrips, whay will those other bugs eat?
@@IllBeStamped they will eat pollen or... ☠️
@@WindowsillNepenthesYep!
Great video thank you !
I just pop a pot of utricularia in my tent with my neps. Why use chemicals when you can use more carnivorous plants?
Because thrips are super hard to eradicate and the other carnivorous plants will also be infected... Even Drosera wouldn't be enough. :(
@@WindowsillNepenthes is there a way to contact you besides here to see if what’s going on with mine is thrips or damage from low humidity?
Edit: Found your public insta, nevermind.
Yes, they are awful pest! I have them and they almost killed my only nepenthes. Good thing I noticed it. I didn't know nepenthes could be affected by pest like thrips. The pinguicula is ok
Thrips are one of the very few pest that can attack Nepenthes. For example aphids or scales don't.
Does anyone know what the parents of nepenthes mojito are? I am thinking of getting one and just wanted to know the parents.
It's supposed to be the same as n. Dyeriana ;)
@@WindowsillNepenthes thanks, your help is always great and fast :)
That is what I was told by Matt Soper when I bought mine. It is a rebranding of Dyeriana. I have one. It does well in low humidity. Cheers Adam
I thought mites are pest too
Not all :)
Just followed you on Instagram 🙌🏽
Thanks 😊 I'm not really active on Instagram
Remy I have fungus gnats is this a problem for my Nepenthes or will the gnats just end up being food for my pitcher plants ?
They are only a problem for seedlings (and us 🤣). When the plant is 1 inch, they become food.