I found this video to be very useful. Thanks. As I'm sn absolute beginner i would have liked to see how you mount the boring bar to your cross slide. Maybe I'll check your other videos to see if I can get it.
A flat spot along the top would stop the tendency to turn due to cutting presure,(once you get the angle correct) you can also use round HSS cutting tool stock to save on filing a square hole.
Nice job on the boring bars. I have made a couple in the past, mostly for odd type work. I made one to run between centers and put the work piece on the compound rest and bored it that way. Making a tool for your own use is particularly satisfying. keep on keeping on.
I believe I've seen Mr. Keith Fenner use that method for odd sized and shaped boring jobs! I'd like to try it someday, myself. Thanks for stopping by Harold!
Nice! Totally going to make one now. I'm sorry you had bad luck with the commercial bars. I was actually going to buy a similar set, and am glad you posted this. Thanks for saving me some headache lol. Always great to see your work my friend :)
+Tater79bj yeah I wish I had known to avoid them altogether before investing in them, even if they were cheap. The cobalt bar, as I've said, has been a real winner for what it's worth!! Thanks for watching!
For larger bores, you could imitate a line boring setup. On a larger bar you arrange the setscrew in another cross drilled hole perpendicular to the hole for toolbit.
Awesome boring bars....................One other tip for you is that if you put the hole for the HSS blank on an angle you will be able to get the cutting tool out in front of the boring bar, therefore you will be able to bore a blind hole and even have the ability to put a finish on the bottom of the hole if desired.
That's a great tip to point out, tom! I keep meaning to make one of those, should be easy to drill the hole at an angle with some clever fixturing in the mill. Thanks for watching!
Your presentation is excellent, good video, good sound and very good content. On the content, I agree totally with you, my purchased braised boring bars likely are not worth the cost. Thank you for sharing this project. (really enjoy your channel)
Great video man. For my source of round stock for making boring bars i just ask if anyone is throwing away any printers. They are a great source of round stock.
Biggest problem with the brazed carbide bars is they come with the wrong grind. Using them without regrinding results in a huge negative rake. I'm not surprised that they break on you.
I'd like to make one of these. I've never done this kind of operation(boring). Is it possible to cut an inside shoulder thats nice and square with this setup? I can't picture how that would work. I plan on drilling out a half inch, just because thats my largest drill size, then I'd like to bore it out to one inch. My plan is to make a tailstock die holder.
is the hole need to be off set for the diameter of the tool like you going to used 3/8 squarer tool bit on 1/2 round does the hole need to be half of the boring tool?
As long as you have a manner of adjusting the cutting height of your tool, no. If you're working with extremely tight tolerances then you may need to offset your cutter so that you don't have too much of your bar's radius underneath the cutting edge if you don't have the internal diameter to work with, but I put the hole in the middle of the bar to maximize strength then adjust cutter height at the tool holder.
Neat idea, as an ageing hobbyist ive now a bit of time and money to spend. I think your advice is sound buy the very best you can and learn to use tools correctly. I came across a good descriptor recently FEPOS stands for Far Eastern Piece of Sxxx
Nope it's not you. It took me a very long time to finally learn that cheap off shore cutting tools really aren't worth whatever money they cost. That goes double for those cheap braised carbide boring bars. There not sharp even when brand new and the bar the carbide is braised into is generally the wrong geometry. A lot of times the bottom of the bar will rub the bore forcing the tool tip out and away from the cut. Maybe obvious to some, but not all HSS and Carbide is created equal. You will get far better performance, tool life, and cut quality just by using name brand north american built cutting tools. But don't take my word on it. Do your own test. A name brand end mill, replaceable carbide tip, drill, etc is still cheap enough to buy and then test it in the same material against the cheap stuff will prove it a lot better than anything I could say. I highly recommend Criterion's braised boring bars but there's many other quality manufactures around. Good boring bars aren't cheap though. And a green grinder wheel is only good enough for roughing a carbide tipped tool to shape. It's needs a diamond wheel to properly sharpen braised carbide. It's impossible to get a better surface finish on the part than the finish that's on the tools cutting edges.
+Turning Point that's a great point you've made, and I agree that good tooling isn't cheap (and more often, cheap tooling isn't good!) as I'm still a novice at this, I'm in a constant process of adding to my actual tooling and at the same time upgrading as much of it as I can! You also make a fine point about the different varieties of carbide and HSS which is something I've neglected to identify in my videos, and I'm going to try to be more cognizant of that in the future! Great comment and thanks for watching!
No problem. I just hope I can save some people some of the money I've wasted on cheap cutting tools over the years before I finally got a bit more education about the high quality tooling being probably cheaper just in far better tool life. If you want a real eye opener try just one OSG tap or die. I have a good friend with probably over 50 years in the tool & die industry and he swears OSG make the best in the world. There's some excellent RUclips posters around so don't get me wrong. But as good as all these videos are as well as the machining forums they can't cover it all. And there certainly not a replacement for good reference books. There's a hell of a lot to be learned in even books that are 50-100 years old and most of those sell for very little. If it worked back then it will work just as well today. I do think the videos and forums should be looked at as good additions to the books. It's not exactly cheap but the best by far I know of no matter what a persons skill level is would be the George Thomas book The Model Engineers Workshop Manual. Also Google Tee Publishing and Camden Books in the U.K. Lock up your credit cards before doing so. :-)
Cheap stuff from China, Banggood. That is all I use. I even started buying cbn inserts from China. And I have yet to need to buy higher quality. But for the mill, it is Niagara only.
Mr file one way, fwds, never fwds n back, this is taunt in apprentice school age 15, your files wear out twice as fast, just stroke the file fwds slow n even, even spray some light lube on the file but THANKS
I found this video to be very useful. Thanks. As I'm sn absolute beginner i would have liked to see how you mount the boring bar to your cross slide. Maybe I'll check your other videos to see if I can get it.
A flat spot along the top would stop the tendency to turn due to cutting presure,(once you get the angle correct) you can also use round HSS cutting tool stock to save on filing a square hole.
Great share, I have 3/8 drill rod from another project, and Harbor Freight has the $5 kit of HSS blanks...
I am going to need a rather long boring bar soon. I will use your idea. Thank you
Nice job on the boring bars. I have made a couple in the past, mostly for odd type work. I made one to run between centers and put the work piece on the compound rest and bored it that way. Making a tool for your own use is particularly satisfying. keep on keeping on.
I believe I've seen Mr. Keith Fenner use that method for odd sized and shaped boring jobs! I'd like to try it someday, myself. Thanks for stopping by Harold!
Nice! Totally going to make one now. I'm sorry you had bad luck with the commercial bars. I was actually going to buy a similar set, and am glad you posted this. Thanks for saving me some headache lol. Always great to see your work my friend :)
+Tater79bj yeah I wish I had known to avoid them altogether before investing in them, even if they were cheap. The cobalt bar, as I've said, has been a real winner for what it's worth!! Thanks for watching!
@@PracticalRenaissance Hi. Cockamamie……. Words like this , I thought were English ( I’m a Brit ), so it’s interesting hearing it in your video 😊
For larger bores, you could imitate a line boring setup. On a larger bar you arrange the setscrew in another cross drilled hole perpendicular to the hole for toolbit.
Awesome boring bars....................One other tip for you is that if you put the hole for the HSS blank on an angle you will be able to get the cutting tool out in front of the boring bar, therefore you will be able to bore a blind hole and even have the ability to put a finish on the bottom of the hole if desired.
That's a great tip to point out, tom! I keep meaning to make one of those, should be easy to drill the hole at an angle with some clever fixturing in the mill. Thanks for watching!
How would you hold the HSS bit if is at an angle? Make the threaded hole at 90 degrees to the bit anyways?
have a look at Stefan Gotteswinter
he has a good vid on that and a lot other stuff '
han ar skit bra
Your presentation is excellent, good video, good sound and very good content. On the content, I agree totally with you, my purchased braised boring bars likely are not worth the cost. Thank you for sharing this project. (really enjoy your channel)
+Glenn Felpel thank you, and thanks for watching!
love your stuff.. you inspire me to make stuff.. thanks for the quick and simple tool.. love it!
Great video man. For my source of round stock for making boring bars i just ask if anyone is throwing away any printers. They are a great source of round stock.
that smaller dia. end that holds the tool is good to get in small places, so it wasnt a mistake
Biggest problem with the brazed carbide bars is they come with the wrong grind. Using them without regrinding results in a huge negative rake. I'm not surprised that they break on you.
great video mate. keep it coming
Awesome! thank you.
Cool. I'm going to make one of these! THanks.
I'd like to make one of these. I've never done this kind of operation(boring). Is it possible to cut an inside shoulder thats nice and square with this setup? I can't picture how that would work. I plan on drilling out a half inch, just because thats my largest drill size, then I'd like to bore it out to one inch. My plan is to make a tailstock die holder.
make a video on how to grind the boring bar bits not many out there
super i just bought a cazaneuve HB 575X2000, i need tool up, but methinks barze the tool steel on, toolpost holds 32 mm, which is 1 1/4 inch
Interesting and well done video. Randy Richard mentioned your channel so I will be subscribing. Thanks.
Thanks a bunch!
What the material for the round bar?
nice...well explained, good work !
Miss your videos on the mini lathe.
Very cool!
Nice vid. Thanks!
Where did you get such a small hss blank; I do not have a band saw to cut a piece.
believe it or not you can buy a small box of HSS lathe blanks (varying sizes all in one set) for about $5 from Harbor Freight!
is the hole need to be off set for the diameter of the tool like you going to used 3/8 squarer tool bit on 1/2 round does the hole need to be half of the boring tool?
As long as you have a manner of adjusting the cutting height of your tool, no. If you're working with extremely tight tolerances then you may need to offset your cutter so that you don't have too much of your bar's radius underneath the cutting edge if you don't have the internal diameter to work with, but I put the hole in the middle of the bar to maximize strength then adjust cutter height at the tool holder.
Neat idea, as an ageing hobbyist ive now a bit of time and money to spend. I think your advice is sound buy the very best you can and learn to use tools correctly. I came across a good descriptor recently FEPOS stands for Far Eastern Piece of Sxxx
kool
Nope it's not you. It took me a very long time to finally learn that cheap off shore cutting tools really aren't worth whatever money they cost. That goes double for those cheap braised carbide boring bars. There not sharp even when brand new and the bar the carbide is braised into is generally the wrong geometry. A lot of times the bottom of the bar will rub the bore forcing the tool tip out and away from the cut.
Maybe obvious to some, but not all HSS and Carbide is created equal. You will get far better performance, tool life, and cut quality just by using name brand north american built cutting tools. But don't take my word on it. Do your own test. A name brand end mill, replaceable carbide tip, drill, etc is still cheap enough to buy and then test it in the same material against the cheap stuff will prove it a lot better than anything I could say. I highly recommend Criterion's braised boring bars but there's many other quality manufactures around. Good boring bars aren't cheap though. And a green grinder wheel is only good enough for roughing a carbide tipped tool to shape. It's needs a diamond wheel to properly sharpen braised carbide. It's impossible to get a better surface finish on the part than the finish that's on the tools cutting edges.
+Turning Point that's a great point you've made, and I agree that good tooling isn't cheap (and more often, cheap tooling isn't good!) as I'm still a novice at this, I'm in a constant process of adding to my actual tooling and at the same time upgrading as much of it as I can! You also make a fine point about the different varieties of carbide and HSS which is something I've neglected to identify in my videos, and I'm going to try to be more cognizant of that in the future! Great comment and thanks for watching!
No problem. I just hope I can save some people some of the money I've wasted on cheap cutting tools over the years before I finally got a bit more education about the high quality tooling being probably cheaper just in far better tool life. If you want a real eye opener try just one OSG tap or die. I have a good friend with probably over 50 years in the tool & die industry and he swears OSG make the best in the world.
There's some excellent RUclips posters around so don't get me wrong. But as good as all these videos are as well as the machining forums they can't cover it all. And there certainly not a replacement for good reference books. There's a hell of a lot to be learned in even books that are 50-100 years old and most of those sell for very little. If it worked back then it will work just as well today. I do think the videos and forums should be looked at as good additions to the books. It's not exactly cheap but the best by far I know of no matter what a persons skill level is would be the George Thomas book The Model Engineers Workshop Manual. Also Google Tee Publishing and Camden Books in the U.K. Lock up your credit cards before doing so. :-)
Cheap stuff from China, Banggood. That is all I use. I even started buying cbn inserts from China. And I have yet to need to buy higher quality. But for the mill, it is Niagara only.
Mr file one way, fwds, never fwds n back, this is taunt in apprentice school age 15, your files wear out twice as fast, just stroke the file fwds slow n even, even spray some light lube on the file but THANKS
"taunt" you wouldn't happen to be from the south, would you?