Thanks for the tip on the boring bars. I have a set of those and never got good performance from them. I have now clearanced them. I used a 6" diameter 600 grit diamond lapping disc mounted in my Worksharp, which worked great.
Steve - a big thanks for the tips on “tuning up” those carbide boring bars. I’d been led to believe they were junk and to be avoided. Will def bring mine out of the archive and fix the angles. Also - have been going over all your vids, and learning a LOT! 🍺
Steve the tool you show to hold the boring bars to hone has given me the idea to solve a problem I've wrestled with a long time. I have big hands and sharpening stubby drill bits I use in my automotive work must be pretty comical. What I use is a small drill chuck with a wooden handle but its not balanced, it works but isn't comfortable. Your tool looks great, I've just put it on the top of my "tools to make" list. Thanks for sharing.
Hi James, That reminds me, I need to grind up some stub drills for use on my tool-post drill.. I hope to make various sizes of these aluminium holders as they are very quick to make...Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Steve, great video! I have the same set of boring bars and they didn't cut worth a darn. Now I know why. Thanks again for the detailed, easy to understand instruction.
Hi Douglas Thanks. Yes these tools need better angles to work properly. They are excellent boring bars and last really well when they are right. I have had the same set for years and use them regularly. I can't remember whether I showed it in this video, but when they are re-ground, one can blue them up with a permanent marker pen, covering the whole cutting end of the tool and shank. After using the tool you can soon see if it has been rubbing in an area that it shouldn't...and carefully re-grind some extra clearance, just enough to clear. Regards Steve
These kinds of reviews / instructionals are manna from heaven. Just because it's Chinese does not automatically mean it's junk. Great to see the pick of the bunch so to speak.
Hi David....Thanks..The majority of lathe tools available in the UK are from China and India. UK tool sellers buy them in bulk then sell them for higher prices. The only advantage that you get from UK sellers is that they are normally delivered a bit quicker. I have found that the Chinese tools are very well made and excellent quality. Just as good as any of the makes I have used in the past. Regards Steve
They do seem to be engaging in a more aggressive marketing approach, other channel authors have been getting rather expensive freebies to demo from them, I'd consider them for more of my purchases but I really like E bays bullet proof return policies, I have yet to pay for an in warranty or defective item return, Banggood clearly states they do it only case by case basis and even if you win, it looks like you still get to pay the return postage sooo... "3. If it is covered under our Guarantee; you will likely be asked to return the product to us. Responsibility for the payment of shipping charges is determined on a case by case basis; usually the shipping costs for warranty claims are shared between Banggood and the customer."
I think my set was 1/2" shank. They do OK as long as the tip radius is tweaked and depending on bore minimum required, some angle increases. Well worth making the tweaks. I also have one of the 'grooving' tools which I use successfully for parting ops. Glad you find those items work well for you. All best Steve for 2018.
Hi Steve, Great tips, thanks for sharing and thanks for your work in making these videos this year. Hope you and your family have had a Merry Christmas and wishing you a healthy and prosperous new year. Regards Raymond
I've got a 7" x 16" mini, and used my boring bar upside down and at the extreme outside setting to turn true a 7" round, it worked a treat for that too.
Hi It is surprising what you can do on the Mini Lathe, it you think carefully. I hope to show some of my methods of work holding and machining large diameter work pieces sometime....Regards Steve
I notice my same (2020) grooving tool is also listed as a "parting" tool. The weakness seems to be that when insert fails it breaks at the rear of the cutter. So the two cutting heads do no good as the full length of the insert is needed to properly set it. The insert after breaking is too short to be held and will slip back past the toolholder support. I have 12, 16, and 20 mill shanks as well as 150, 200 and 300 wide inserts. Seems to be a problem with all of them. Shallow grooves do well but when trying to part in most cases the beginning goes fine then toward the last of a 60mm cut it will stall requiring greater tool pressure at which point it often breaks clean across the insert at the back. I have recently got their insert holding blade with tool holder and will see if it is any better. Parting some harder stainless also seemed problematical as enormous tool pressure still would not begin the cut. Yet a file cut the material and a hacksaw worked its way through. Happy New Year. Doug
Hi Doug, They are actually wrong listing these as parting tools. When I worked in the aerospace industry these tools were only ever used for machining grooves. The parting tools we used were the bladed types with a proper one-edge parting off insert and these actually have a different profile altogether. Also we used the ground HSS blade type. I have also seen the groove tools listed on Ebay as part-off tools, but the sellers have definitely got this wrong. Have a great New Year as well....Regards Steve
Thanks for the review i do need these Thanks again. Remember to try window weights for cheep stock of cast iron real old all the best to you and yours from John in Texas
Hi John, Thanks. I must try some window weights at some point. I used to see a lot of them at my local recycle center, but haven't seen any in a while.....Have great new year....Regards Steve
good information i must have been lucky as the ones i have work ok but will check them out after seeing this video where did you get your diamond lap from i haven't seen one like that thanks for sharing Dave
Hi Steve. I bought a similar set of boring bars from Chronos in the UK. Tried one of theese bars today but the result was very bad. I tried the bar right ot of the box. When watching Your video now You have increased the angels in front and on the cutting side of You bar. But how big is the angels now. Best regards to You and thank Yo0u for a very good video from John Eriksson in Sweden.
The angles are meant to be about 6 degrees on the front and the cutting side if you are using a lapping machine. I just guess though. It isn't that critical. If you have a too steep angle it would be prone the breaking more easily. The best way is to increase the angle slightly, then use a permanent marker pen and colour the whole cutting end of the tool. Then set it up in the lathe and do a cut. You can then examine the blued or blacked up areas of the tool. You will then see whether the tool is cutting properly. Check for areas below the cutting edge to see if the tool has been rubbing, seen where the marker pen ink has come off. The tool should only touch on the cutting edges. Tool angle and center height must be correct before you do this obviously. Regards Steve
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills, I've learned a lot from your videos. What grit grinding wheels do you recommend? Hope you have a happy, healthy New Year.
Hi Douglas Thanks have a happy new year as well!... I bought a standard Faithfull Green Grit Silicone Carbide wheel on Ebay. Mine is an 8" inch wheel....Regards Steve
Steve, can you tell me why, when you set the boring bar in the holder, you angled the top of the blade down slightly? I’m just learning so any and all tips are greatly appreciated.
Hi Steve, I do that to give a bit more clearance on the cutting side of the tool. The clearance is increased between the top cutting edge and below that edge. Regards Steve
I could be wrong but I believe It is distinct possibility that someone might not realize you were punning....due to the grinding nature of the content...
CORRECTION: In the UK the 9 piece 3/8" precision carbide boring bar set was just under 14 GBP to buy from Banggood
My bars were not working at all. I grinded them per your instructions and now they work great!. Thanks.
Hi Arturo Thanks for watching. I'm pleased you have good results. Regards Steve
Thanks for the tip on the boring bars. I have a set of those and never got good performance from them. I have now clearanced them. I used a 6" diameter 600 grit diamond lapping disc mounted in my Worksharp, which worked great.
Steve - a big thanks for the tips on “tuning up” those carbide boring bars. I’d been led to believe they were junk and to be avoided. Will def bring mine out of the archive and fix the angles. Also - have been going over all your vids, and learning a LOT! 🍺
Steve the tool you show to hold the boring bars to hone has given me the idea to solve a problem I've wrestled with a long time. I have big hands and sharpening stubby drill bits I use in my automotive work must be pretty comical. What I use is a small drill chuck with a wooden handle but its not balanced, it works but isn't comfortable. Your tool looks great, I've just put it on the top of my "tools to make" list. Thanks for sharing.
Hi James, That reminds me, I need to grind up some stub drills for use on my tool-post drill.. I hope to make various sizes of these aluminium holders as they are very quick to make...Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Steve, great video! I have the same set of boring bars and they didn't cut worth a darn. Now I know why. Thanks again for the detailed, easy to understand instruction.
Hi Douglas Thanks. Yes these tools need better angles to work properly. They are excellent boring bars and last really well when they are right. I have had the same set for years and use them regularly. I can't remember whether I showed it in this video, but when they are re-ground, one can blue them up with a permanent marker pen, covering the whole cutting end of the tool and shank. After using the tool you can soon see if it has been rubbing in an area that it shouldn't...and carefully re-grind some extra clearance, just enough to clear. Regards Steve
These kinds of reviews / instructionals are manna from heaven. Just because it's Chinese does not automatically mean it's junk. Great to see the pick of the bunch so to speak.
Hi David....Thanks..The majority of lathe tools available in the UK are from China and India. UK tool sellers buy them in bulk then sell them for higher prices. The only advantage that you get from UK sellers is that they are normally delivered a bit quicker. I have found that the Chinese tools are very well made and excellent quality. Just as good as any of the makes I have used in the past. Regards Steve
I get it Ian. Steve, another good video and I must say Banggood is working hard around the world to get their goods displayed. Cheers Peter
They do seem to be engaging in a more aggressive marketing approach, other channel authors have been getting rather expensive freebies to demo from them, I'd consider them for more of my purchases but I really like E bays bullet proof return policies, I have yet to pay for an in warranty or defective item return, Banggood clearly states they do it only case by case basis and even if you win, it looks like you still get to pay the return postage sooo...
"3. If it is covered under our Guarantee; you will likely be asked to return the product to us. Responsibility for the payment of shipping charges is determined on a case by case basis; usually the shipping costs for warranty claims are shared between Banggood and the customer."
I think my set was 1/2" shank. They do OK as long as the tip radius is tweaked and depending on bore minimum required, some angle increases. Well worth making the tweaks.
I also have one of the 'grooving' tools which I use successfully for parting ops.
Glad you find those items work well for you. All best Steve for 2018.
Hi Steve,
Great tips, thanks for sharing and thanks for your work in making these videos this year.
Hope you and your family have had a Merry Christmas and wishing you a healthy and prosperous new year.
Regards
Raymond
Hi Raymond...Thanks for watching and your encouraging comments. Have a great new year as well....Regards Steve
Dear Steve, great tips, thanks for showing these, particularly the explanations re. the grinding. I wish you a very happy New Year.
Hi, Many thanks.....have a great New Year as well
Very good discussion/demostration
I've got a 7" x 16" mini, and used my boring bar upside down and at the extreme outside setting to turn true a 7" round, it worked a treat for that too.
Hi It is surprising what you can do on the Mini Lathe, it you think carefully. I hope to show some of my methods of work holding and machining large diameter work pieces sometime....Regards Steve
Very well done Steve. I certainly enjoyed the information and learning in this video. Hope you have a very good new year!
Hi Glenn, Thanks for all your encouraging comments.....Hope you have a great new year as well!....Regards Steve
Just received that same boring bar set. I'm pleased to know you think they're OK. Great info the profiles. Happy new year!
Hi Stuart, the boring bars are excellent! Have a great new year as well....Regards Steve
Great tips Steve Happy new year mate
Hi Clive.....Thanks....Hope you have a great new year as well....Regards Steve
Thanks Steve another great video.
I notice my same (2020) grooving tool is also listed as a "parting" tool. The weakness seems to be that when insert fails it breaks at the rear of the cutter. So the two cutting heads do no good as the full length of the insert is needed to properly set it. The insert after breaking is too short to be held and will slip back past the toolholder support. I have 12, 16, and 20 mill shanks as well as 150, 200 and 300 wide inserts. Seems to be a problem with all of them. Shallow grooves do well but when trying to part in most cases the beginning goes fine then toward the last of a 60mm cut it will stall requiring greater tool pressure at which point it often breaks clean across the insert at the back. I have recently got their insert holding blade with tool holder and will see if it is any better. Parting some harder stainless also seemed problematical as enormous tool pressure still would not begin the cut. Yet a file cut the material and a hacksaw worked its way through. Happy New Year. Doug
Hi Doug, They are actually wrong listing these as parting tools. When I worked in the aerospace industry these tools were only ever used for machining grooves. The parting tools we used were the bladed types with a proper one-edge parting off insert and these actually have a different profile altogether. Also we used the ground HSS blade type. I have also seen the groove tools listed on Ebay as part-off tools, but the sellers have definitely got this wrong. Have a great New Year as well....Regards Steve
Amen to not being to use both ends after a wreck. Tool holder is easily ruined during the normal "wreck"
same same but same.. many double ended tips boogered up in the same way
Brilliant stuff as usual, thanks steve.
Hi Nicholas....Thanks....Have a great new year...Regards Steve
Thanks for the review i do need these Thanks again. Remember to try window weights for cheep stock of cast iron real old all the best to you and yours from John in Texas
Hi John, Thanks. I must try some window weights at some point. I used to see a lot of them at my local recycle center, but haven't seen any in a while.....Have great new year....Regards Steve
good information i must have been lucky as the ones i have work ok but will check them out after seeing this video
where did you get your diamond lap from i haven't seen one like that thanks for sharing
Dave
Hi Steve.
I bought a similar set of boring bars from Chronos in the UK. Tried one of theese bars today but the result was very bad. I tried the bar right ot of the box. When watching Your video now You have increased the angels in front and on the cutting side of You bar. But how big is the angels now.
Best regards to You and thank Yo0u for a very good video from John Eriksson in Sweden.
The angles are meant to be about 6 degrees on the front and the cutting side if you are using a lapping machine. I just guess though. It isn't that critical. If you have a too steep angle it would be prone the breaking more easily.
The best way is to increase the angle slightly, then use a permanent marker pen and colour the whole cutting end of the tool. Then set it up in the lathe and do a cut. You can then examine the blued or blacked up areas of the tool. You will then see whether the tool is cutting properly. Check for areas below the cutting edge to see if the tool has been rubbing, seen where the marker pen ink has come off. The tool should only touch on the cutting edges. Tool angle and center height must be correct before you do this obviously.
Regards Steve
nice work mate
Hi Jason, Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Thanks Steve, these tips for the mini lathe have been a lot of help. Is the dust from grinding the carbide anything to be worried about?
Hi Chris, It is best to wear a dust mask really, especially in an enclosed space....Regards Steve
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Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills, I've learned a lot from your videos. What grit grinding wheels do you recommend? Hope you have a happy, healthy New Year.
Hi Douglas Thanks have a happy new year as well!... I bought a standard Faithfull Green Grit Silicone Carbide wheel on Ebay. Mine is an 8" inch wheel....Regards Steve
Steve, can you tell me why, when you set the boring bar in the holder, you angled the top of the blade down slightly? I’m just learning so any and all tips are greatly appreciated.
Hi Steve, I do that to give a bit more clearance on the cutting side of the tool. The clearance is increased between the top cutting edge and below that edge. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thank you Steve! This worked very well and I’m getting an incredibly smooth finish on my part.
Hi Steve that's great. Have you got a Mini Lathe?
@@SteveJordan Yes I do. Seig mini lathe with a few mods.
Great tip on these boring bars,what material is the green wheel?
It Is a Green Grit Silicon Carbide wheel....Regards Steve
Forgot the links!
I have put them in the right place now....Regards Steve
If you could do better show us Ian.If you cant say anything good say nothing ,nicer to give a little credit keep on trucking Steve.
I hope he only missed adding this: ☺
Some one has to say it.
This video was kind of boring.....
I could be wrong but I believe It is distinct possibility that someone might not realize you were punning....due to the grinding nature of the content...
"Insert" joke here... ;P
Hi Ian.....Don't be a bore....If you watch the video through to the end...you may get groovey....:)
Ian Ide it had to be said!