Making a simple cross drilling jig for on the lathe
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- Опубликовано: 2 янв 2019
- I need a cross drilling attachment for my lathe for some upcoming projects, so I'm trying to make it the easy way.
I am trying to make a little money for my youtube hobby, through the Banggood affiliates program. Follow the link below, buy something you NEED and I'll earn some commission. Doesn’t cost you anything extra, and you're basically saving money out of Banggood's hands :)
A little San ou drill chuck: bit.ly/2SCrk7M
The Rolingmetal photo album:
photos.app.goo.gl/YW7rDL8YYYU... 
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There’s always problems, the outcome is what counts! Love your honesty.
Very true.
Congratulations! Finally got that backing plate to break loose, without losing any knuckle skin (like I do every time I change my chuck.)
Glad you got that backing plate off. You did make a nice drill chuck arbor that can still be turned into something useful with a bit more work.
It's a big relief. You're right I could turn down that arbor and make it fit some small bearings.
Probably lots of comments saying the same thing but I’m too lazy to read them.
(Funny I had your accent in my head as I typed that )
All you really need for a bearing surface is dissimilar metals for the bearing surface. Like brass or bronze against steel.
Or cast iron against steel is also popular.
Steel on steel will always fail. But you have just proved it now and you will remember. 😀
I’m glad your old spindle has survived.
Other safty tips. Never get a rag near a spinning piece of metal. It can grab and pull your whole arm in. No chance to escape!
I also noticed you check for a bur with your finger on a spinning part the other day. If there is a bur it can only end badly.
Sanding is ok if you are careful but don’t wrap it around the work piece. All the way around and it will grab and wind around the pice and pull you in. Gloves only add to the danger. I do understand it is cold where you are.
I’m enjoying you videos and you are going really well teaching yourself. Your commentary is very entertaining.
All I can say is take all the safety advice on board. Be very careful where you put your fingers as even old lathes and Chinese lathes tear fingers off.
Moving right along... It is a shame you don’t have a way to lock your spindle. Then you could make a “c” spanner to undo your backing plate.
One way to do that to some extent on some machines is to engage low gear but I know you have a variable speed motor.
Maybe you can think up a design for a spindle lock. Like clamp a belt some how.
PS You can call it a workshop. You have enough tools now!
Dave
I've already started work on another holder without set screw holes. If that doesn't help I though I would line it with two copper rings, one on each side. Problem is, I've got all kinds of yellow metal, but no idea which is good as bearing material.
So I'm hoping It will just work using, steel on steel. That would save a lot of time and I kinda need a drill jig.
b.t.w. You just gave me an idea for a spindle lock :)
I think steel on steel works quite nicely, considering most modern lathes have all sliding surfaces from steel. With lubrication, steel on steel has pretty much the same friction coefficient as steel with bronze.
@@miro6138 as long as at least one of the surfaces is hardened
I still think steel on steel is a mistake. Sure if one piece is hardened then they are essentially different.
I think You demonstrated exactly what happens with steel on steel. You even did it consistently 3 or 4 times in a row.
If the movement slow and force is low you can get away with it for a while but the end result is inevitably the same.
A drill bearing is neither slow or low force.
Copper is probably too soft as a bearing material. It is also more difficult to machine than you may think. (You need heaps of rake angle)
If you have something that is brass or bronze scraptonium like I’d be making a couple of bushes that are replaceable down the track.
Good luck :)
@@DavoShed Thats correct, bronze would be my first choice, but brass or even plastic like acetal or Teflon. Its nice to just replace the bushing instead of having to trash the part\parts.
Nice but in your place i would put some bearing's on either side of the tool holder with a cap on each end.
I am considering it :)
You appear to be at about my skill level, maybe at little beyond. This works well for me as nothing thus far has been overwhelming. You also have a bit of a dry humor about your videos, this best kind. Thank you sir.
I too vote for solid bronze bearings on that type application. I know that will work. They last a long time. They are easily replaced. Steal on steal gauls especially stainless in stainless.
Keep warm. Great channel.
Great to see you back mate, I’m really looking forward to following you in 2019 and you have given me a top idea for the cross drill for me lathe thanks
Hopefully you have more lock making a drill jig :)
And a Happy New Year back at you ! ! ! ! It's great to see that the spindle nose threads are just fine. That IS a happy ending. I was afraid that the crests would be damaged. But they look just fine.
The old lathe is back in action. Very happy :)
Good insight of low grade machining, I would put bearings on both ends of your drill post tool as it will work very good then.
Carbide cutters are the only way to go and with a diamond wheel on your bench grinder they can be sharpened innumerable times, even indexable inserts when they're dull altho you lose the indexable aspect.
slap some lapping compound in between bore and shaft? brass pads between set-screw and shaft? split the block with a bandsaw and use screws to adjust clamping force?
Interesting idea. Thanks.
Happy endings are all that matters. Looking forward to a fun 2019. All the best from Panama.
Happy endings sure are important.
I feel you, man. I just got a delivery today. I think I ordered just before Thanksgiving.
I'm still waiting for some taps I ordered on thanksgiving :)
you can lap the chuck on the taper, with some chrome polish and slow rpms, holding it by hand, then a bit of loctite and it wont come off again!
That might be a bit overkill. I'm fairly confident it won't go nowhere.
Nice job. You could put some relief on your cross drilling spindle, so it is only bearing front and back of the aluminum block. Or some grooves on the spindle. Glad you got that stuck backing plate of.
rM,
My reference of the rust pitting was on the spindle itself. Though no rust remains the pitting is visible and provides a shallow area where small metal fragments can possibly lodge and thus bind the two parts together making it difficult to separate them, especially if you have no positive way to lock the spindle.
You got a point there. I guess I need to take extra care cleaning the spindle nose.
From watching the drill bind up. It looks like has it heats up it expands and locks up. I would recommend bearings on both sides, that should help keep it going as you intended. Has always I Liked,Shared and added to playlists.
All my very best.
Bobby
It's not heat. But bearings are probably a good idea :)
Nice video , I think you should sharpen the drill bit or the materiel is very hard ,
But I like your honesty,
God bless you
Thanks for the tip
You should consider brass or ball bearings for the application. Good learning tips though to see what happens with friction in sleeve.
I like the idea.
How about adding brass bearings or roller bearings ?
Get it Bud!
tried a similar project with a bxa 16 mm tool holder.. basically the same issues.. bearings would have made it perfect.
There might be something to it, using some bearings :)
Just put 2 needle roller bearings into that holding block and turn down diameter of the spindle so it fits nicely, they cost less than $1. Something like HK2020. And I would also add one axial bearing between chuck and holder. That way, you can either feed by hand or use cross slide to push through that axial bearing. For example, 51104. It would be much more comfortable to use that way.
I was just looking at some 16mm needle bearings on the Banggood website. Only 2mm thick, so that should fit.
Linear bearings might even work better but they are a lot thicker.
I'll probably use some yellow metal because that's what I have and I don't have time to wait 2 moths for a Banggood delivery.
@@Rolingmetal If you want bushing, at least make sure it's bronze, not brass. And you'll need to lap or polish that rod, if you want to use plain bearing. Linear bearings are only good for linear motion, rotation would destroy them quickly, so I'd stick with those needle cage bearings. Can't you just buy them in a hardware store locally? It would probably be cheaper than ordering them from banggood anyway.
Hi Roling scraptainium!
Great videos looking forward to more,happy new year & happiness to your lathe, Grahame from sunny Lanzarote (no gloves here).
I'm expecting some happy lathe moments this year. Statistically it should happen at some point.
Happy new year now it's off throw it in the scrap bin but your self a backing plate blank and machine it up maybe if you start with a decent peice of material the job will go well !!!
I wouldn't even know where to get decent material around here. All my metal comes from the scrapyard :)
Rolingmetal Ok not sure in which country you live by when at scrap yard cast iron is a good material for a back plate
Holy Moses brother, don't you have a live center?
brass bushes drill oil holes no more problems
So, does the thread on the inside of the adapter show any sign of deformation? I knew that it was a bit loose, but didn't think it would be seriously weakened ... a big relief to see that you didn't have to cut it off of there, since I was so convinced that you should test it anyway. I guess we both learned something (the hard way).
If you decide to bush your chuck/tool holder, one possible source of bushing stock is transmission pilot bushings that you can get at the auto parts store. I bought three for my pickup truck and retrieved another from a blown engine, bored and turned them to size for an old concrete mixer. I wish I could give you a durability report on them, but I didn't get to run it for very long. My shaper cut spur gear, though it ran so quietly (without any sign of trouble) during the 4 hour test run, failed miserably under the first batch of concrete I tried with it. I should have followed that gut feeling I had to heat treat it.
That's my latest in the "defeat snatched from the jaws of victory" department. I'll try it again sometime, because I'm either determined to get it right, no matter what, or I'm too bull headed for my own good.
I don't see any damage cause by the backing plate getting stuck. Not on the spindle or on the backing plate :) But I'm sure not going to use it again.
Pilot bearing are probably too small, at least the ones I've seen.
@@Rolingmetal I was able to look up ID/OD on line. I usually research the parts I need on line, and call to order by the part number (or confirm that they do have it in store). It saves me a lot of headache and needless explanations to bewildered clerks. Don't know if you have that option available to you.
Something that keeps coming to mind: You might check to see if you were running out of thread on the lathe spindle just before (or just as) the back face of the backing plate was hard against the spindle register. If the smooth register area ended up being a tiny bit too short after doing the final facing off, that would do it. And it would be close enough to being right to keep it from being obvious.
Just another possibility to keep in mind, and try to avoid, when you make your next attempt.
I am glad you put commercials in your videos, when I watch them again, they have different content and the commercials are different every time I watch the video. I have a lathe but I can spend only an hour or so at a time because I am old and handicapped by arthritis. so I watch your videos and they are pretty much like how I would do things so I get a lot of enjoyment out of them and they inspire me to go back in the garage and try again, but by the time I get set up I have to come in again, so I go back to watching videos. some are too technical and to anal, your channel is the most fun. imperfect and occasional failure is reality and really more fun in the end. keep making them, I don't mind if they are long. why do you have subtitles in English, you English is perfect. thanks, swg
For me the years are also starting to count :( I won't go back in the unheated barn to change a gearbox on the floor in the wintertime.
RUclips automatically generates subtitles, I sometimes fix them up as there are some mistakes. Some say it help with the views, but I never noticed that. I do it for the people who are, or go deaf. I might go deaf myself one day. At that point I would like to be able to still read a correct subtitle. And who knows maybe over time the auto translation algorithms improve and then a correct English subtitle to start with won't hurt.
you need in the center of the piece brass and oiler
Hello, thanks a lot for vid! Could you advise please, I’m lost: I have a cheap wood lathe with a threaded 18mm thick rod in the tail stock. I want to find a drill chuck for it with the same 18mm (female) opening on one side so I could stick it to my tail stock but no matter how I search I never find any item like that. It’s for to make wooden flute drill. Please ask if you need any drawing/painting, general aviation pilot, Scottish bagpipe, blues guitar or Renaissance lute advise, will be happy to help!
Great
I think if you stick the backplate in a woodburner or something and get it bright red hot, then let it cool down slowly with the woodburner or fire pit, then clean it up on the lathe, you may find that the backplate will fit much better. I think the metal you used for the backing plate, it had so many internal stresses that when you cut it and screwed it on, the metal had moved and locked itself in place. By heating it up and letting it cool back down slowly, it should release alot of those stresses and when you put it back on the spindle nose again after getting it fit again, you should be fine from them on.
You could be right. It sure wasn't some expensive stress proof material.
You had me on the edge of my seat the entire video. What a cliff hanger! First the horizontal drill, then the chuck. How do you handle the pressure? Great video, thank you for letting me look over your shoulder.
Pressure? you mean pleasure :)
two steel balls in the set screw holes ..
Happy New Year Rolinf
H.N.Y. I guess the upload finished at just the right time :)
rM,
Looks like rust pitting on the lathe arbor, not much can be done about that. It doesn’t take much to freeze up two components. Just make sure everything is super clean before you put it together. Clean oil is also important. It’s best to drip it rather than using a brush as chips and even fibers from a brush can be left behind.
I sometimes wonder if stuff shipped from Banggood is purposely put on the slowest boat from China and , like you, wonder if my money is lost. As for the carbide from your half center staying in China, that comment gave me a chuckle.
Dale
The piece I used was rust free so that wasn't the problem.Still waiting for some taps I ordered on 22 November.
B12 = major diameter:12,065 - minor diameter: 11,1 - distance between target diameters:18,5 (I only know this because I was curious and actually looked it up :-) ).
You must oil the Armor before you rotation once
Lucky its that fast, I've bought two charger wires for my phone and one took three and the others still not here over two months later.
Typical :) I bough a usb charger myself a few weeks ago. I would be surprised if it got here before next year :) In the past I have made some review videos for BG and then things seem to get shipped quicker. But most of the stuff does get here.
I only had two packages lost and they both came from the European warehouse in the UK. I wonder if they still have a EU warehouse now that brexit is finally happening :)
Great idea...but you must add some type of bearing I agree...the simplest bearing would be
lubricant...my suggestion is to add (even freehand) helix grooves on your spindle shaft ( easiest) or in your spindle housing...this should eliminate your binding...the ultimate would be to remake your housing from tool steel with a oil cup on top...dont forget you need proper oil clearance...good luck..your friendly custom machine builder 44 years exp.
You mean add rifling? Interesting idea. But I've ordered some bearings, that probably a lot easier to install than machining the rifling grooves.
Apply some thick grease on the tip of the dead center.
I was using thick oil with a mos2 additive. Should be good enough, so I thought.
I've been told that you learn more by failure than success. If that's the case, I should be a damn genius by now. Where do I sign up to do TED talks?
Yes, but do you ever wonder why keep failing. I do.
不錯，很好！very good
Only two months, who do you know there? August 2018, drone props for a drone I gave up on at Christmas.
Two items I've bought from the EU warehouse never showed up. Since the Banggood EU warehouse is in the UK I blamed it on the brexit :) One Item they resent after I did some complaining and involved my Banggood contact person.
"I'm shooting for 11-ish, I didn't bother looking up the exact size." ... "That's pretty far off. That's terrible!" 😂🤣😂
That whole idea what terrible. But I guess that's what you get when you let an amateur play with a lathe and a camera :)
Thnx for showing how not to make a cross slide drill rig. Obviously bearings are needed.
Great idea.Too much of the tool bit touching the work piece. Grind more of a pointy tip with a small radius. Turning between centers isn't enough support for that big a radius on the tool bit. Maybe if you grind a groove in a spiral around the arbor it will allow for more lube and run cooler.
I guess the idea was better then the execution.
You're right about that big radius toolbit. It was a bit much and I was to lazy to change the tool.
Well done. I am happy to see you got the backing plate off and the spindle is not damaged.
A cross drilling jig for the metal lathe is on my project list. I have the drill chuck and a boring bar holder. After your results I think I will be better making a special holder for the jig with a couple of bearings.
Just curious. If the newly drilled hole was just to prevent the backing plate from rotating, could you have achieved the same result with a bolt in one of the three holes you drilled for the chuck, and have the bolt engaged on the cross slide?
I had to look up the B12 taper specification. A link for your viewers to a good summary of the specification for various tapers.
www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html
Dave.
That makes two of us. A good start for 2019. So good that I've already forgotten the drill jig failure :)
The pin on the rear of the backing plate limits the levering action on the backing plate.
was that stuck to the lathe from that nasty hard carbon reacting with the lathe nose and threads ? like some dissimilar metals causing static or ion reactions
How did you get so many subscribers?
I have no idea. I think is is just a made up number from google to reward you for making videos and so they can place some advertising..
Are you for real?
I still am :)
its a bit sloppy
trouwens je engels wordt steeds beter.
Dank je. Dit was ook een van mijn doelen toen ik met youtuben begon.
Merk er overigens zelf maar weinig van.
@@Rolingmetal is toch echt
woordenschat neemt duidelijk toe en uitspraak verbetert ook sterk
It’s not a stupid idea! You need to make yourself a bearing surface. Brass shim stock with some form of retainers seems like the easiest and cheapest way to go. Radial wheel bearings like the ones used on wheelbarrows and appliance dollys are cheap and strong enough for the job too. That’s just a bit more involved.
I enjoy watching your videos, I now know there’s at least one other person that screws things up as much as I do!
I was hoping I could use the drill arbor in the boring bar holders on both my lathes.
It's probably not a good idea to install bearings into my boring bar holders :)
Rolingmetal I was thinking the shim stock would be the best idea. Removable with the drill arbor. Good luck!👍
waarom niet gewoon de staaf in de vierklauw opgespannen?
deze setup, met de staaf hooguit een centimeter in de vierklauw!, is onnodig moeilijk en de vierklauw wordt er niet beter van.
in het centergat hoort geen olie maar vet, liefst molykote vet, omdat olie wegvloeit en vet met vaste bestanddelen veel beter op zijn plaats blijft.
hetzelfde geldt voor de geleiding van het asje van de boorkop, bepaaldelijk niet ideaal, maar voor nood kan het.
die centerboor is gewoon bot.
Shite, double boost?
Volgens mij zijn de klauwen van mijn vier-klauw niet volledig parallel met de draaibank.
@@Rolingmetal dan is dat geen vierklauw maar een deurstop...
Waste of time not good
Thanks for wasting you time anyway :)
Boring 😴
No, Drilling. Cross Drilling!