I align my tool holders, especially the cutoff tool, by bumping it flush against the face of the chuck while the tool post is loose, then I tighten the tool post.
Wow. I like your designs, they are solid additions to your tool. You exhibit creativity all over the place. In addition your presentations are well edited. Well done.
Very nice! I did something similar. Made a tool holder on the mill like yours, but with a 1" hole, and mounted my Foredom handpiece in it for internal and external grinding. I also used a piece of 1/4" steel rod to form a long hook, and hung it from the ceiling over the tail stock, to hang the Foredom motor on it. I have a Jacobs chuck to fit the handpiece collet as well. Fun stuff!
I like the simplest soultions to a need. You have mastered that philosophy. I also like the old iron as well, I have a Clausing 111 Mk3a i am slow restoring as use it to do the work on parts that are need. I just aquired the stub gears for it to cut near metric threads that work great for non presison needs. Keep up the great work
Thank you very much! Hey, were you talking about the tool with the post and a plate that sits on the ways? If so, I came up with another method that seems to work better. ruclips.net/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/видео.html
Wow, I just watched your 100 and 44 index video and this, and I am amazed at your ability to figure out how to do things with common stuff laying around. Like I want to try some gear cutting, but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for fancy equipment if I don't need it, since I'm just a hobbyist.
I've thought about cutting gears too. I'm sure it could be done in the lathe although I don't know much about tooth profiles. I do know you can buy cutters to use in a mill which could be adapted.
I like it!!! This is going to be my next project. And I just subscribed. Thanks for taking your time to show us this.. Much simpler than some others I've seen, but just as effective!
Amazing video Mark! I have one of those tool holders and would've NEVER thought to do this with it! Thanks to you, I will now!! Truly amazing.... thanks very much for sharing this!! -- Greg
I did that a few years ago,exactly what you are doing--to make some sprockets,40 something teeth in half inch pitch and it was surprisingly easy..Thumbs up..
Cool... I figured somebody thought of the same idea. Cool on the sprockets! Lathe dials are the same, they look hard to make but they are surprisingly easy.
That is brilliant! Thanks! Now I know how I will mount my Dremel on my little 6" blue Atlas lathe. You got me thinking! Thanks for the information and inspiration.
Just saw you using this in your latest video and had to search through your library to find it. This is clever. I need to add this to my list of things to build!
Hey there... it is very handy. I'm thinking about installing roller bearings. The sleeve bearing worked well for a while but now the center drill moves around a little.
Simple and functional: Especially for drilling the side holes shown toward the end of your video.. I had made something similar using a hole saw on the end of a shaft then mounted to an adjustable plate to set angles for cutting pipe for welding; like 45 degrees, etc. Once angle is set, hole saw size mounted, drill is attached and cut made.
Hi Winky, That turned out to be the easiest thing I have made so far. I ordered a Jacobs Chuck with 3/8” Threads, had a 3/8” Rod and my Boring Bar Mount had a 3/8” clearance hole. I still need to make a adapter for my Tool Post so I can drill from the side. Great idea Winky, Thanks
I received your reply, Thank you. You know for me at least, for no more than it will be used I am thinking to just go ahead and simply put a brass or bronze bushing in for the thrust consideration. And let it push against a set of locking collars. That way it can be adjusted to use it on the carriage and on the cross slide as well. Your ideas are outstanding and certainly original. Thanks
It works fairly well but I've wiped out a few tool holders. A better tool holder would help but I started using a different method. ruclips.net/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/видео.html
Well, I just got my Jacobs Chuck, 2 different size 3/8” drive Tap Chucks, and even 2 Brass Balls in the Mail. I’m going to make a Tap Handle like yours, and mount my Jacobs Chuck on a Rod to use the Boring Head like this Video. Thanks for all the Great Projects Winky👍 I have to start out with the little ones first. I’m just getting really going on trying to Machine things.
Add a variable speed sewing machine motor, a couple pulleys and some 3-6mm PU round belt and you've really got an effective tool. Mount the motor overhead like they do on modern rose engine lathes. They work beautifully!!
Wow....I don't have a mill. Just a logan lathe and I have had issues drilling into 11/64 tool steel along the length of it exactly center. I want to put a set screw to hold a 1/16 drill bit inside it for my engraving machine. . This will be perfect for that. Can't thank you enough.
Fantastic Winky!!! Just beautiful. I was looking for a Radial and/or axial drills to be able to mount on my lathe . This is brilliant and it uses things that we already have. I am sure we all have a 12 volt drill in our toolbox that still works but was replaced by the 18 volt system.
Thanks, yes I've used this drill a lot. I usually drill pilot holes and finish the holes on the drill press. It's hard to get a lot of pressure with the hand drill. Also this setup and not really ridged enough for large holes.
Thanks William, I'm glad it worked well for you. I hope to an add on indexing wheel soon. I'm thinking a wheel with rows of 100 and 48 holes. With these holes you could drill hole patterns with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, etc... and also 100 for making lathe dials. I made dials using a 100 tooth saw blade a while back. It worked great.
Thanks. Yes it works great. I still use my drill press for larger holes but when the hole is located in the lathe with a center drill the accuracy is much improved.
@@WinkysWorkshop Lol. I just finished mine and it works great ! I used bronze hex stock so a little extra work. (it was hell trying to find a hex boring bar holder) 🤤
A live tooling spindle is a very useful addition to a lathe. Yours is about as simple as can be, but very functional. The one I built many years ago is self contained with the spindle running on 2 small Timken roller bearings I salvaged somewhere. To power it I used a 12 Volt windshield wiper motor and a timing belt plus 2 : 1 step down timing belt pulleys, again salvaged from some office equipment. These motors are very powerful and incredibly robust. To power it I had a shop power supply that would supply up to 30 Volts DC at 30 Amperes. This was built into the lathe bench, and the motor was plugged in with 2 banana plugs. Today I would utilize a Micro Wave oven transformer and rewind the secondary winding for 24 Volts or so. Use a full wave rectifier for 30 Amps to produce DC current. Vary the input Voltage to the transformer, 115 VAC, with a TRIAC full wave lamp dimmer. A dimmer good for 600 watts will do nicely, just make sure it is a full wave TRIAC dimmer. Anything else won't work. If you can lay your hands on a 10 Amp autotransformer such as a Variac, that would work well, also, to vary the input voltage. A spindle as described can be used to do very light milling also, to produce flats and small slots. Just make sure to clamp the lathe spindle securely for such work.
Wow... it sounds like you did it right. Mine has a little flex but I have had very good luck using it. The tapered bearing are reasonably priced now. Maybe I need to look at upgrading mine.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for your interest, Winky! When I decided to build my cross drilling spindle I spent some time deliberating the design and usage thereof. Thus I wanted a spindle that was useful for accurate cross-drilling of work pieces, and axial drilling, too. I used a 1/4" capacity Jacobs drill chuck with a 3/8"-24 threaded bore. If I were to do it again I'd use a ER 11 collet extension holder. These are available with a 1/2" and a 5/8" dia. extension. The steel quick-change mounting block is L-shaped, with the lower leg pointing to the left. The long vertical leg has the dovetail on the right face to fit to the QCTP, and the horizontal leg is wide, thick, and long enough to hold the quill spindle assembly, which is parallel to the long leg. The reason for the L-shape is that the drill chuck jaws are in line with the top edge of the vertical leg in order to use drills that are otherwise too long to use for cross drilling. The hole in the QC tool holder for the quill was drilled and bored in situ on the lathe, with the edge of the short leg indicated parallel to the lathe Z axis. The work piece was pushed against the drill with the tailstock barrel and a piece of wood in between to allow through drilling without drilling into the tailstock! The drive motor is mounted on a plate clamped to the back end of the quill and thus is part of the quill assembly. Thus the spindle assembly can slide a little in the mounting block and, more importantly, it can rotate freely in that block when the locking cotter is loosened. This locking arrangement is as per a tailstock barrel clamp. This ability to rotate the quill in its mounting is important if the device is to be used for axial and radial drilling of the work piece. To facilitate this the holder is made symmetrical from top to bottom about the spindle centre line so that the block can be turned upside down, with the drill spindle always in vertical alignment with the lathe spindle. For radial drilling I simply align the left hand edge edge of the holder with the chuck front face using a 1-2-3 block. For axial drilling I simply align the the drill with an edge of the lathe bed by eye; for greater accuracy I use a dial indicator mounted on the lathe bed to align the edge of the block to the lathe Z axis. The ER 11 extension is hardened and ground, and can run directly on needle roller bearings. There should be a very slight interference between the spindle OD. and the bearing ID. This can be controlled with the interference between the Bearing OD. and the quill bore. A needle thrust bearing would also be required. I certainly found this devise useful and a real time saver when making steam fittings and pumps for my locomotive! If you decide to build a new device, let us know what you decide and how you make it. Good luck in all your work shop endeavours!
@@WinkysWorkshop I'll see what I can do. My entire set of QC tooling, including tool post, was shop-built in the early to mid 1990's because I could not justify the expense at that time.
Hi, like this idea, If I may suggest for you to use that flat pice a friend milled you sliding on your bed, sunk a hole partially in in to support a rod from beneath the chuck jaw, that will assure its in a 90 degree angle and the same position for all holes, the op of the rod mau even have a U-Shape to fit around the chuck jaw to prevent movement.
I align my tool holders, especially the cutoff tool, by bumping it flush against the face of the chuck while the tool post is loose, then I tighten the tool post.
Really functional extremely simple design. The toolpost acts as a guide only. No stresses no bending. Congrats
Thanks, I'm sure a mill could do things more accurate but this method works well for most things.
Wow. I like your designs, they are solid additions to your tool. You exhibit creativity all over the place. In addition your presentations are well edited. Well done.
Thanks Stan!
It's good to see people who see outside of the box!
I the drill press work and the drilling in the lathe hope to see more thanks for sharing Doug.
RUclips needs more people like you! Subbed and excited to see all your videos!
Thanks for this video. I have that same tool holder that came with my AXA qctp. It was gathering dust in the drawer. Great idea!
Wow, just found your channel and I am very impressed. Looking forward to watching all the rest of your content. Thanks for sharing! Joel.....
You are inflating my ego... Ha, but thanks again!
Necessity is the mother of invention. There are always new and ingenious ways of achieving a desired end result. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome. I am a machinist, started in 1995, and I like your modifications.
Thanks Stephen. hopefully I'll be posting an indexing method within a month.
A very practical idea. Thanks for sharing!
Very nice! I did something similar. Made a tool holder on the mill like yours, but with a 1" hole, and mounted my Foredom handpiece in it for internal and external grinding. I also used a piece of 1/4" steel rod to form a long hook, and hung it from the ceiling over the tail stock, to hang the Foredom motor on it.
I have a Jacobs chuck to fit the handpiece collet as well. Fun stuff!
Very nice & simple.👍
Your parting tool mod caught my eye when I watched you make the indexing wheel! On to that one now!😂
I like the simplest soultions to a need. You have mastered that philosophy. I also like the old iron as well, I have a Clausing 111 Mk3a i am slow restoring as use it to do the work on parts that are need. I just aquired the stub gears for it to cut near metric threads that work great for non presison needs. Keep up the great work
Splendid video Winky! Awesome idea. Thanx
Good thinking. I'll have to copy that for my AXA over sized boring bar holders. Thanks for the videos!
Mr Winky, your cutoff tool support is fantastic, you have the greatest ideas you are sharing, Bravo, and Cheers from Florida, Paul
Thank you very much! Hey, were you talking about the tool with the post and a plate that sits on the ways? If so, I came up with another method that seems to work better. ruclips.net/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/видео.html
Wow, I just watched your 100 and 44 index video and this, and I am amazed at your ability to figure out how to do things with common stuff laying around. Like I want to try some gear cutting, but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for fancy equipment if I don't need it, since I'm just a hobbyist.
I've thought about cutting gears too. I'm sure it could be done in the lathe although I don't know much about tooth profiles. I do know you can buy cutters to use in a mill which could be adapted.
I always love the creativity. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Very clever use of simple tools to carry out what can be a difficult thing to get right. Inspiring!
Thanks, this video is 5 yrs old but I still use this setup frequently.
I like it!!! This is going to be my next project. And I just subscribed. Thanks for taking your time to show us this.. Much simpler than some others I've seen, but just as effective!
Brilliant idea, and easy to make Thanks for sharing. And Happy New Year!
That looks really handy. Great idea. It’s going to be my next Project. Thanks Winky for all the improvements you come up with.
You’re welcome 😊 It's handy to have.
Un grand bravo de France !
A big bravo from France !
Great idea. I'll try my hand at making one of these. Looking forward to the indexing wheel project. That's something I'd like to make.
Reviewing your old videos.Thank you for posting.
Cool... I've used this tool post drill a lot. I've thought about making one with tapered bearings to make it more accurate.
Amazing video Mark! I have one of those tool holders and would've NEVER thought to do this with it! Thanks to you, I will now!! Truly amazing.... thanks very much for sharing this!! -- Greg
Thanks Greg, it works great... perfect for bolting a disk to a hub :o)
What's new Greg?
Brilliant in its simplicity. Thanks.
It works best for drilling a pilot hole but I have used this thing a lot.
wow fantastic thanks love the indexing!!
I did that a few years ago,exactly what you are doing--to make some sprockets,40 something teeth in half inch pitch and it was surprisingly easy..Thumbs up..
Cool... I figured somebody thought of the same idea. Cool on the sprockets! Lathe dials are the same, they look hard to make but they are surprisingly easy.
Winky you just helped me out a lot. I have that tool holder and can make these fixtures without a mill. Thank you!
Glad I could help! I use this set up a lot!
That is brilliant! Thanks! Now I know how I will mount my Dremel on my little 6" blue Atlas lathe. You got me thinking! Thanks for the information and inspiration.
Yeah... I mounted a dremel to grind a chuck too. Thanks for the comment!
Great Video, Love the Indexing !
I enjoy the simplicity of the build thanks
For sure it is simple. I've used it a lot and the sleeve has some wear. I think I need to bearings to support the shaft.
Another great sensible useful video. Please keep them coming. Especially like this excellent Tool Post Drill.
Thanks, I'm gad you like it!
Just found your channel, & subscribed straight away. All good projects,& very well presented. Plenty of food for thought.THANKS & Happy New Year
Just saw you using this in your latest video and had to search through your library to find it. This is clever. I need to add this to my list of things to build!
Hey there... it is very handy. I'm thinking about installing roller bearings. The sleeve bearing worked well for a while but now the center drill moves around a little.
Ingenious. Thanks for sharing.
That's a great tool and an excellent video. Thanks for sharing! Subscribed
Once again amazed at your creative mind!
Thanks!
A nifty little setup you have made.
Thanks, it's amazingly accurate if you stay close to the work
Good trick ill do that too on my lathe nice work.
Learnt a lot from your video. Great idea. Thanks.
Winkey, brilliant ideas and genius idea for simple indexing using the Chuck jaws, ‘don’t laugh you said’, my jaw hit the deck superb idea.
Thanks, it's also surprisingly accurate!
Very creative! I'll have to make one now. Try using the tailstock spindle to square up the tool holder, or a square of the chuck. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment James, and yes, just to speed things up in the video I didn't align things very well. The chuck works great.
That is fantastic... I'm self taught... so these things are very cool...
A flanged sleeve bearing, that is a good idea, perfect. That is the way I am gong to go. Thank you.
Excellent!
I like the cutting off tool rest. Not seen that before. The side drill application is very neat. BobUK
I also made a video on the cutoff tool support if you are interested.
A practical, easy-to-make tool for accurate index drilling. Thanks.
You're welcome! I've used the heck out of this drill.
Man you really think outside the box,
I will be making me one of those.
Great info thanks.
Thanks, and you're welcome!
Enjoyable video. Great ideas. Thanks. Subscribed!
those are some useful tricks sir!
That's a brilliant idea!
Thanks, I've used it a lot
Simple and functional: Especially for drilling the side holes shown toward the end of your video.. I had made something similar using a hole saw on the end of a shaft then mounted to an adjustable plate to set angles for cutting pipe for welding; like 45 degrees, etc. Once angle is set, hole saw size mounted, drill is attached and cut made.
Cool idea on the pipe!
That's pretty cool!
super idea , Thanks man !
Another nice tool and thanks for sharing. Later and all the best.
Hi Winky, That turned out to be the easiest thing I have made so far. I ordered a Jacobs Chuck with 3/8” Threads, had a 3/8” Rod and my Boring Bar Mount had a 3/8” clearance hole. I still need to make a adapter for my Tool Post so I can drill from the side. Great idea Winky, Thanks
Glad you liked this. I have used it many time and you're right, very simple!
I received your reply, Thank you. You know for me at least, for no more than it will be used I am thinking to just go ahead and simply put a brass or bronze bushing in for the thrust consideration. And let it push against a set of locking collars. That way it can be adjusted to use it on the carriage and on the cross slide as well. Your ideas are outstanding and certainly original. Thanks
I agree... maybe a flanged sleeve bearing
I think this is a great idea, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Love the cut off support.
It works fairly well but I've wiped out a few tool holders. A better tool holder would help but I started using a different method. ruclips.net/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/видео.html
Good idea! Simple and it works.
Yes it does! Maybe not perfect but adequate for most projects.
Very elegant and easy.
Great job. Thank you for sharing
You're welcome. It can be very useful. Super simple too!
Well, I just got my Jacobs Chuck, 2 different size 3/8” drive Tap Chucks, and even 2 Brass Balls in the Mail. I’m going to make a Tap Handle like yours, and mount my Jacobs Chuck on a Rod to use the Boring Head like this Video. Thanks for all the Great Projects Winky👍 I have to start out with the little ones first. I’m just getting really going on trying to Machine things.
Cool! Thanks and good luck.
I have enough stuff to do this, but never thought of it. Winky is an idea man.
Thank you sir. It's a handy thing to have when you need it.
Add a variable speed sewing machine motor, a couple pulleys and some 3-6mm PU round belt and you've really got an effective tool. Mount the motor overhead like they do on modern rose engine lathes. They work beautifully!!
That would work although I like the hand drill... very powerful and simple.
👍👍👍: the indexing tool is extremely efficient!
True, thanks for watching.
Wow....I don't have a mill. Just a logan lathe and I have had issues drilling into 11/64 tool steel along the length of it exactly center. I want to put a set screw to hold a 1/16 drill bit inside it for my engraving machine. . This will be perfect for that. Can't thank you enough.
Pretty neat. Thanks for sharing this.
Your welcome!
Sure thing!
Very clever! Very useful!
Glad you think so!
Very clever! I want one. Thanks
Instant sub! Great idea....Thanks
Veeeeery clever. And relatively simple!
Thanks!
Great vid! Ingenious!! :)
Genius says, "don't laugh." This works. Amazing. Yes, of course it works. You're a true gem!!!!!!!
Haha.. you are kind, thanks!
Very simple very useful I like it 👍👍
good idea!!!
Great, Thank You for sharing.
My pleasure!
You are a genius! Thanks 😊
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad you liked it.
Very good, thanks
Fantastic Winky!!! Just beautiful. I was looking for a Radial and/or axial drills to be able to mount on my lathe . This is brilliant and it uses things that we already have. I am sure we all have a 12 volt drill in our toolbox that still works but was replaced by the 18 volt system.
Thanks, yes I've used this drill a lot. I usually drill pilot holes and finish the holes on the drill press. It's hard to get a lot of pressure with the hand drill. Also this setup and not really ridged enough for large holes.
@@WinkysWorkshop Ah yes. Still fantastic!! Better than the consumer grade ones on eBay from what I have seen.
@@johnkoury1116 Thanks
This just made me have about 7Krillion ideas! Thanx man! G>
Your welcome
Great stuff Winky from NZ
Thank you sir!
Thanks! I built one today and it helped immensely. solved a big problem.
Thanks William, I'm glad it worked well for you. I hope to an add on indexing wheel soon. I'm thinking a wheel with rows of 100 and 48 holes. With these holes you could drill hole patterns with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, etc... and also 100 for making lathe dials. I made dials using a 100 tooth saw blade a while back. It worked great.
When you do, please make a video.
I will.
Fantastic
so smart idea !
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you sir
Nice... Tool post drill coming up..:)
Great video
Thanks!
WoW.. So clever.. I've always pulled the job out of the lathe and stuck it on a drill press.. but this is way more accurate.
Thanks. Yes it works great. I still use my drill press for larger holes but when the hole is located in the lathe with a center drill the accuracy is much improved.
Gotta love functional simplicity.
Thanks, its a little wimpy but very handy.
@@WinkysWorkshop Lol. I just finished mine and it works great ! I used bronze hex stock so a little extra work. (it was hell trying to find a hex boring bar holder) 🤤
@@oldhick9047 Ha... never seen one either
Good work. Hoping 2018 treats you good.
A live tooling spindle is a very useful addition to a lathe. Yours is about as simple as can be, but very functional.
The one I built many years ago is self contained with the spindle running on 2 small Timken roller bearings I salvaged somewhere. To power it I used a 12 Volt windshield wiper motor and a timing belt plus 2 : 1 step down timing belt pulleys, again salvaged from some office equipment. These motors are very powerful and incredibly robust.
To power it I had a shop power supply that would supply up to 30 Volts DC at 30 Amperes. This was built into the lathe bench, and the motor was plugged in with 2 banana plugs.
Today I would utilize a Micro Wave oven transformer and rewind the secondary winding for 24 Volts or so. Use a full wave rectifier for 30 Amps to produce DC current. Vary the input Voltage to the transformer, 115 VAC, with a TRIAC full wave lamp dimmer. A dimmer good for 600 watts will do nicely, just make sure it is a full wave TRIAC dimmer. Anything else won't work.
If you can lay your hands on a 10 Amp autotransformer such as a Variac, that would work well, also, to vary the input voltage.
A spindle as described can be used to do very light milling also, to produce flats and small slots. Just make sure to clamp the lathe spindle securely for such work.
Wow... it sounds like you did it right. Mine has a little flex but I have had very good luck using it. The tapered bearing are reasonably priced now. Maybe I need to look at upgrading mine.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for your interest, Winky!
When I decided to build my cross drilling spindle I spent some time deliberating the design and usage thereof. Thus I wanted a spindle that was useful for accurate cross-drilling of work pieces, and axial drilling, too. I used a 1/4" capacity Jacobs drill chuck with a 3/8"-24 threaded bore.
If I were to do it again I'd use a ER 11 collet extension holder. These are available with a 1/2" and a 5/8" dia. extension.
The steel quick-change mounting block is L-shaped, with the lower leg pointing to the left. The long vertical leg has the dovetail on the right face to fit to the QCTP, and the horizontal leg is wide, thick, and long enough to hold the quill spindle assembly, which is parallel to the long leg.
The reason for the L-shape is that the drill chuck jaws are in line with the top edge of the vertical leg in order to use drills that are otherwise too long to use for cross drilling.
The hole in the QC tool holder for the quill was drilled and bored in situ on the lathe, with the edge of the short leg indicated parallel to the lathe Z axis. The work piece was pushed against the drill with the tailstock barrel and a piece of wood in between to allow through drilling without drilling into the tailstock!
The drive motor is mounted on a plate clamped to the back end of the quill and thus is part of the quill assembly.
Thus the spindle assembly can slide a little in the mounting block and, more importantly, it can rotate freely in that block when the locking cotter is loosened. This locking arrangement is as per a tailstock barrel clamp.
This ability to rotate the quill in its mounting is important if the device is to be used for axial and radial drilling of the work piece.
To facilitate this the holder is made symmetrical from top to bottom about the spindle centre line so that the block can be turned upside down, with the drill spindle always in vertical alignment with the lathe spindle.
For radial drilling I simply align the left hand edge edge of the holder with the chuck front face using a 1-2-3 block.
For axial drilling I simply align the the drill with an edge of the lathe bed by eye; for greater accuracy I use a dial indicator mounted on the lathe bed to align the edge of the block to the lathe Z axis.
The ER 11 extension is hardened and ground, and can run directly on needle roller bearings. There should be a very slight interference between the spindle OD. and the bearing ID. This can be controlled with the interference between the Bearing OD. and the quill bore. A needle thrust bearing would also be required.
I certainly found this devise useful and a real time saver when making steam fittings and pumps for my locomotive!
If you decide to build a new device, let us know what you decide and how you make it.
Good luck in all your work shop endeavours!
@@BasementEngineer I'd love to see some pictures winkysworkshop.GMX.com
@@BasementEngineer Also... I watched a few of your videos... LOVE these trans! Amazing!
@@WinkysWorkshop I'll see what I can do. My entire set of QC tooling, including tool post, was shop-built in the early to mid 1990's because I could not justify the expense at that time.
I Love it thank you.
I'm glad you like it.
Clever idea.
Thanks... simple too
I ain't laughing, I'm subscribing, simple effective indexing. Thanks
Thanks! Glad you like it.
Pretty nifty ideas.
Thanks!
Hi, like this idea, If I may suggest for you to use that flat pice a friend milled you sliding on your bed, sunk a hole partially in in to support a rod from beneath the chuck jaw, that will assure its in a 90 degree angle and the same position for all holes, the op of the rod mau even have a U-Shape to fit around the chuck jaw to prevent movement.
muy buen trabajo a cuantas revoluciones pone el torno