Those Allen bolts aren't "NEW", they've been used FOR DECADES. Also, use a brass hammer so you don't damage threads on the studs. Also leveraging on the brake dust shield will just bend it and possibly cause rubbing when remounting everything
I haven't had a rotor rusted that bad. Living in Minnesota, we do get some salt but I generally take pretty good car of my cars. The last ones I had stuck, I just beat the heck out of it with a 2 lb hammer. I am not shy about hitting it from behind and it did work for me. I will try your method next time I have a stuck rotor. If you can find it, I have found the "Free All" works much better than any of the penetrating oils you used. When I put on the rotors, I always use anti-seize on the hub to attempt to prevent this.
I go around and take wheels off when car is fairly new and check brakes slider pin movement and for stuck pads I had a brand new vehicle that had stuck pads right from the factory and i put some never seez or spray anti rust between hub and disk and the wheel and disk we had a guy who could not get his aluminum wheel off it was seized to the rotor because he did surf fishing and drove on wet sand he even drove on the wheel with lug nuts halfway out to try and break it free.
tapping on the rotor is fine but you do run the risk of warping the hub if you really hammer on it. You should test for run out regardless but if you like doing the same job multiple times efff it, right?
A couple of weeks ago, I had a 97 Mitsubishi Montero from Guam in my AZ "shop." Rear rotor rusted on. None of the suggested things worked, and I tried and tried. Got a 10 ton three jaw hydraulic puller. Thought I was about to break that, but it finally came off with a bang. Used my drill with a cupped wire wheel to clean up the hub and treated it to a coat of copper anti-seize at the contact points before the new rotor went on. I'm from IL and I haven't seen one like that before.
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Those Allen bolts aren't "NEW", they've been used FOR DECADES. Also, use a brass hammer so you don't damage threads on the studs. Also leveraging on the brake dust shield will just bend it and possibly cause rubbing when remounting everything
I haven't had a rotor rusted that bad. Living in Minnesota, we do get some salt but I generally take pretty good car of my cars. The last ones I had stuck, I just beat the heck out of it with a 2 lb hammer. I am not shy about hitting it from behind and it did work for me. I will try your method next time I have a stuck rotor. If you can find it, I have found the "Free All" works much better than any of the penetrating oils you used. When I put on the rotors, I always use anti-seize on the hub to attempt to prevent this.
I go around and take wheels off when car is fairly new and check brakes slider pin movement and for stuck pads I had a brand new vehicle that had stuck pads right from the factory and i put some never seez or spray anti rust between hub and disk and the wheel and disk we had a guy who could not get his aluminum wheel off it was seized to the rotor because he did surf fishing and drove on wet sand he even drove on the wheel with lug nuts halfway out to try and break it free.
tapping on the rotor is fine but you do run the risk of warping the hub if you really hammer on it. You should test for run out regardless but if you like doing the same job multiple times efff it, right?
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Putting the bolts on to protect threads is a good idea 👍
Agreed. I made that mistake once... never again...
A couple of weeks ago, I had a 97 Mitsubishi Montero from Guam in my AZ "shop." Rear rotor rusted on. None of the suggested things worked, and I tried and tried. Got a 10 ton three jaw hydraulic puller. Thought I was about to break that, but it finally came off with a bang. Used my drill with a cupped wire wheel to clean up the hub and treated it to a coat of copper anti-seize at the contact points before the new rotor went on. I'm from IL and I haven't seen one like that before.