Just come across this video I'm probably late to the party but I just started doing my own builds and modifying my previous own guitars but I recess all my tune o matics I have a $1,500 Schecter pt sls evil twin that I took the hip shot bridge off of drilled holes for a tuna-matic and recessed it and it plays now like a $1,500 guitar I can't stand hip shots they're too stiff they're not Slinky enough and I use the roller tune o matics
If it keeps failing, that's most likely what I'll do. And maybe use maple or some other hardwood to help strengthen the area. The endgrain is the problem. There won't be much support on the back side if I go very much deeper. End grain will snap with very little effort. Long grain surface area will increase with a deeper pocket, that would help offset the back area being weaker. It's still holding up for now, but if it keeps failing I'll steam the neck off and do something more solid with the neck joint.
Yes it has an adjustable truss rod. That is however a different adjustment. The truss rod is not how you adjust action. While it affects action slightly, it's not the primary adjustment. The truss rod is only to adjust how much relief a neck has. It counters the pull of the strings. The bend, or bow of the neck. Too tight and the neck will have a backwards bow, the frets and the neck itself form a kind of "hill" in the middle area and leave it low on the ends. Usually this causes buzzes on the end towards the nut. Too loose, and there is too much curve forward, causing high action and making it difficult to play. The relief was optimal on this guitar. So the action needed to move at the bridge.
Just come across this video I'm probably late to the party but I just started doing my own builds and modifying my previous own guitars but I recess all my tune o matics I have a $1,500 Schecter pt sls evil twin that I took the hip shot bridge off of drilled holes for a tuna-matic and recessed it and it plays now like a $1,500 guitar I can't stand hip shots they're too stiff they're not Slinky enough and I use the roller tune o matics
Very cool!
That the guitar being played. If so nice
Just guessing but I think it would be a more permanent fix to rout the neck pocket deeper and at the proper neck angle. Like a les Paul
If it keeps failing, that's most likely what I'll do. And maybe use maple or some other hardwood to help strengthen the area.
The endgrain is the problem. There won't be much support on the back side if I go very much deeper. End grain will snap with very little effort. Long grain surface area will increase with a deeper pocket, that would help offset the back area being weaker.
It's still holding up for now, but if it keeps failing I'll steam the neck off and do something more solid with the neck joint.
Does the guitar have an adjustable truss rod? Wouldn't it be easier to adjust the neck if so?
Yes it has an adjustable truss rod.
That is however a different adjustment. The truss rod is not how you adjust action. While it affects action slightly, it's not the primary adjustment.
The truss rod is only to adjust how much relief a neck has. It counters the pull of the strings. The bend, or bow of the neck. Too tight and the neck will have a backwards bow, the frets and the neck itself form a kind of "hill" in the middle area and leave it low on the ends. Usually this causes buzzes on the end towards the nut. Too loose, and there is too much curve forward, causing high action and making it difficult to play.
The relief was optimal on this guitar. So the action needed to move at the bridge.