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Thank you for commenting and thanks for saying that!

Thanks for watching! I'm glad it helped you out!

Thank you for watching!

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! It helps a lot I think with the algorithm. I hope the owner likes it as well! It definitely made the guitar a usable tool again for a gigging musician. Thanks again!

Thanks for watching! Many share that opinion. I have experienced some pretty rough 70s strats and teles. This one is actually pretty good overall. It had a refret years ago, and I'm sure it played better than when it left the factory after that fret job. Given the play wear on it, I'd say it was the original owners number 1. Opnions aside on if the guitars or pickups are any good, the pickups from this era still sell for money enough to justify the rewind. A few hundred $US per pickup on reverb and ebay. Who's paying for them?? I don't know. Monetary value aside, this one is more sentimental. In this case, the original owner has passed away. It now belongs to his son. The son also plays music. The current owner would like to see the guitar return to full function and playability, I imagine for him, it'll be like having a small piece of his dad on stage with him. Thanks again for watching!

I personally think the worn frets are more "impressive" than the fingerboard wear. Definitely can't fake divots like that!

@@daveydacusguitars9033 I'm sure someone's worked it out! I'm not saying that's fake wear, I'm just taking a pop at relics 😂

Balls

This customer asked for jumbo stainless steel for the next set

That's why it's on my bench! I will be glad to make this thing right again.

Bluegrasser? Not enough acoustic players venture up the neck

Thanks!

Awesome! Thanks for stopping by, watching and commenting!

And thanks for the compliment!

My logic was....with an angled headstock, that break angle is built in for the strings farther from the nut. But to be honest, I'm not 100% sure on that. That's the only set of staggered keys I've ever seen made for an angled headstock.

Thanks for watching and commenting!

You can ground the bridge plate for extra insurance, but I haven't found it to prevent the microphonic issues associated with tele bridge pickups. It gets grounded anyway from the bridge ground wire, to the bridge, to the pickup mounting screw, and then to the bridge plate, as the screw is threaded directly into the plate and not the bobbin. I haven't seen issues yet with ground noise or buzzing. Thanks for watching!!

Possibly. I wanted it to be a permanent and lasting bond, with zero chance for vibration whatsoever. No doubt that tape is some strong junk though!

Also, thanks for watching!!

I had this Problem in the 80er.......and fixed it with Double sided gaffa......and it still holding Up👍✌️

I really can see where it could last as long as needed. Conventional or not, I can see where it would do the job. Mainly, I don't have a lot of personal experience with that tape, and I don't keep any on hand. So it never occurred to me to use it. Just using what I know and what's around me to solve the problem. Good to know though!

@scottkramer7431 Indeed! I don't know why my brain ever thought the wax would hold for the long term on that smooth surface.

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!

Thank you for having the patience to get through them! I've been working on a solution for that. I bought an external mic. Over all its better audio, but it seems it's sort of directional, and in many instances it wasn't pointing towards me when I was talking. It's fine for background, or voice over if I intentionally talk directly into it, but for the shop environment needing both voice and background sounds it hasn't been what I had hoped it would be. Unfortunately I can't film it again.... so... I'll just try to improve it on the next one. I'm editing part 3 now and I'll try to do something to boost the volume in the editing software. It was filmed in the same way unfortunately. I have another video unrelated to this guitar where the audio was so bad I think I'll just edit out my talking and just do an entirely separate voiceover for it. Thanks for the feedback!

No repotting needed. So the wax pretty much gets all the way into the pickup in the potting process. It fills up empty air space inside the coil and it basically 100% saturates the pickup. In removing the covers, I only reheated the outer most layer of wax in order to free up the cover. The wax was kind of the only thing holding them on after the solder joints were cut. You would have to get the pickup hot for a very extended length of time in order to melt the wax deep inside the coil. Thanks for watching and for the question!

Awesome! Thanks for watching! I just looked it up, and that seems like a very pleasant place to be!

Thanks for watching! I haven't seen that cause an issue for me before. I fretted one of my personal guitars, probably 8 or 10 years ago when I was much less experienced, and I was not very careful with the fret tangs. In this case, the slots were really in excellent shape. It was the instruments' first refret, and the removal of the old frets went extremely well and left the slots in tact. I am personally really confident the fret tang and glue will hold those frets in for a good long service life. We started fretting with stainless about 10 or 12 years ago and I've yet to discover the service life of stainless! I of course told the customer to contact me with any issues he has, but I really don't anticipate any issues from that job. I was super happy with it in the end, and the client was as well when he picked it up. You are technically correct though. The more the better. If the guitar had been fretted multiple times and had really chewed up slots, it would have been absolutely necessary to get as much tang as possible to grip the fret slot. Thanks again for watching!

@@daveydacusguitars9033 - Thanks for your reply. That's great, I'm happy to hear that you haven't had any issues! I agree, if the fret slots are good and solid, then it shouldn't be a problem, but I've had this happend a few times, on some older models, where the slots weren't in such good condition. In that case it's quite important. I can see why the customer would be happy, you did a great job, and the frets looked good! I just wanted to share my experience, and I'm glad you've had no problem. Have an excellent day, and keep up the good work. Cheers.

It varies by player technique I think. Also, bending really kills the tops of frets. This guy is mainly a singer, and this guitar is used mainly for chords and backing up his vocals other lead players.

Frets are glued in place. Heat is needed to loosen the glue otherwise you risk yanking chunks of wood with the fret during removal. I know it seems like it shouldn't make a difference, but I have tried heat alone, vs heat with solder. Heat alone does work for sure. I did that for years. But the heat with solder method is about 5 times more effective at transferring the heat to the fret tang, and therefore the glue. I encounter about 10% of that chip out effect I used to now that I've switched to using solder. In short, for cleaner removal of the frets.

@@daveydacusguitars9033 Understood.. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain that! Great work!!!

Thank you for taking the time to watch!

Thanks for watching! Short answer, almost everything I talk about in this video could contribute to a guitar not playing well and having strings that are too high, and even more factors I don't mention. It's impossible to say without seeing an instrument. I would recommend taking it to a music shop in your area and telling them about the problems. They should be able to help you out, or at least point you to the repair person they use who can help you out. Most guitars can be made quite comfortable to play with some adjustments. But mainly you would want to start by checking the three big areas for the most improvement... The saddle at the bridge, is it too tall? The string height at the nut, are they too high? And the truss rod adjustment, is it too loose? Thanks again for watching!