Paul, thanks for tackling this issue. There’s many opinions. When first starting out I manually shift my ‘22 6.7 Cummins so I’m not loading the engine with low rpm’s due to the early shift points. I think one reason the older engines with manual trannys lasted longer is the operators kept them in the 1500-2100 engine range. Lugging contributes to high egts and more soot in the egr system and dpf
I agree. I have a 2017 F250 6.7 diesel with 460,000 miles. I always let it warm up, even during the summer. Idling should be kept to a minim when ever possible. But the engine needs warmed up, especially before pulling a load.
Excellent video and info for us gear heads, Paul. Appreciate that. Maybe a video on parking your vehicle from a drive to save the turbo from a quick shutdown. Happy Holidays to you and your family man.
Great video! Heard you say the Cummins trucks didn’t have the high idle capability. I may have misunderstood you but my 2014 Ram 6.7 go’s in to high idle on its own if its cold outside. I can also put it in hi idle manually with the controls on the steering wheel if I need to. All stock and latest firmware. I always have let my vehicles warm up for a few minutes. GM Fords Rams all doing just fine. Thanks for the informative discussion.
Rental cars in the winter. Start engine and immediately drive it to work in first gear. Second gear on the highway if needed. The closer to redline the better. Warms up really fast. Makes up for not being provided with an ice scraper.
Yah I agree with you. For mine as long as its about like 35 or higher and I'm not hauling then it sits for a minute and gets driven easy till it warms up. But if I'm towing then I let it sit and idle for about 15 minutes and then get going. Then we have our CAT skid steer at work and it will idle for like 5 minutes and then it gets 1/4 throttle till it hits 100f then half till it gets to 140f and once it hits 160f I will give it full throttle. Unless it decides to do a stupid regen for the DPF 3 minutes after starting it when no matter how cold it is and sits at full throttle. I don't know why CAT would decide that it should do a regen when ever it feels like even if the colant is 30f. Makes no sense to me
I let my 4th gen Cummins warm up and idle. When I’m running errands and am gonna be less than 10 minutes in a store I let it idle, especially when it’s really hot or really cold outside
2021 F250 Tremor with no problems yet. CCV seems good but worries me. Pulling a gooseneck and 75HP tractor is the only thing that will get it to regen in Louisiana winter bc it won’t reach the temperatures required no matter how hard I drive it especially after flushing and refilling the coolant at 80k miles. I have to sit in driveway and hold accelerator until it gets to 220° F then drive it 20+ miles at 70mph to get it to passive regen but I feel like I have to change the oil every time. How do I get it to high idle?
Working in a cat dealer parts department the tier 4 , 4.5 emissions are killing these machines. Nothing but def manifolds, pumps, sender unit issues every day. How about doing a video on driving these emissions trucks? What you can do, rpm range, gear selection to try to keep the dpf from building up soot level so fast? I drive my truck 60/40 city , highway and the dpf percentage seems to go up 15-20 % a week.
Mine site an a shop 68f I do pull 10k trailer but I do creep out of it and role out of town for 1-2 miles at 25mph and once I hit highway I’m at 120-140f water and I slow accelerate till I hit 60 and after couple more miles has full temp
@@Steadierpark yaeh lol “by muh snake ole”👴🏻. Dave’s getting his a$$ handed to him by mechanics on TikTok right now. Dude is always doing his customers dirty building bad engine stealing parts off them and ghosting them.
Check out Optilube XPD, the packaging, labeling and dosage - ironically are near identical...plus the cost.... staying with stanadyne formulas for my 6.7 powestroke and diy potentiometer high idle mod..
@@Nathang2233 stealing parts? And bad rebuilds I never heard that and I was.considering taking my stuff to him if needed in future that sounds terrible
No expert but my opinion is no load get going after 30 seconds and drive very light. I have an 05 cummins and i dont go over 1300 rpm when warming up. If your loaded then theres basically no way to drive light so let it warm up to abt where you said but remember trans temps to
2023 f350 cc/kuv 6.8 gas 4 transmission fluid leaks under 20 thousand miles... Any one have any idea why this would be happening? Ford has no clue.... Thanks and take care
If it's leaking from the plastic pan, get one of the Banks or similar aluminum ones and a new ford gasket. If not, I've seen other brands with porous casings.
I like the coolant to be at 100 too, i also try to get the transmission to 100 but it's usually lagging behind the engine temp.
I'm here! So excited to hear your perspective!
Thank you for your support
Always Love the information. you never let me down. keep it coming.
Paul, thanks for tackling this issue. There’s many opinions. When first starting out I manually shift my ‘22 6.7 Cummins so I’m not loading the engine with low rpm’s due to the early shift points. I think one reason the older engines with manual trannys lasted longer is the operators kept them in the 1500-2100 engine range. Lugging contributes to high egts and more soot in the egr system and dpf
I agree. I have a 2017 F250 6.7 diesel with 460,000 miles. I always let it warm up, even during the summer. Idling should be kept to a minim when ever possible. But the engine needs warmed up, especially before pulling a load.
I totally agree
It also needs to be idled down before shutting down.
Good info. Agreed on warmups being important for our bodies too. I just tore a bicep doing curls cold. PTL it's a minor tear.
I ruptured a bicept while cooking a steak. Bicept snapped like a rubber band just from twisting a salt grinder!
Excellent video and info for us gear heads, Paul. Appreciate that. Maybe a video on parking your vehicle from a drive to save the turbo from a quick shutdown. Happy Holidays to you and your family man.
I love the high idle mode on my d max warms up quick
Great video! Heard you say the Cummins trucks didn’t have the high idle capability. I may have misunderstood you but my 2014 Ram 6.7 go’s in to high idle on its own if its cold outside. I can also put it in hi idle manually with the controls on the steering wheel if I need to. All stock and latest firmware. I always have let my vehicles warm up for a few minutes. GM Fords Rams all doing just fine. Thanks for the informative discussion.
Rental cars in the winter. Start engine and immediately drive it to work in first gear. Second gear on the highway if needed. The closer to redline the better. Warms up really fast. Makes up for not being provided with an ice scraper.
I always appreciate your take. You know cause you do it. Also the transmission hates the cold. Go slow when it’s cold or the shifts can be hard.
The new thermal stats I put in helped a heap to warm up my truck
What temp would you consider using the grill cover when not towing? Plug in temps?
great video paul!
Yah I agree with you. For mine as long as its about like 35 or higher and I'm not hauling then it sits for a minute and gets driven easy till it warms up. But if I'm towing then I let it sit and idle for about 15 minutes and then get going. Then we have our CAT skid steer at work and it will idle for like 5 minutes and then it gets 1/4 throttle till it hits 100f then half till it gets to 140f and once it hits 160f I will give it full throttle. Unless it decides to do a stupid regen for the DPF 3 minutes after starting it when no matter how cold it is and sits at full throttle. I don't know why CAT would decide that it should do a regen when ever it feels like even if the colant is 30f. Makes no sense to me
I let my 4th gen Cummins warm up and idle. When I’m running errands and am gonna be less than 10 minutes in a store I let it idle, especially when it’s really hot or really cold outside
2021 F250 Tremor with no problems yet. CCV seems good but worries me. Pulling a gooseneck and 75HP tractor is the only thing that will get it to regen in Louisiana winter bc it won’t reach the temperatures required no matter how hard I drive it especially after flushing and refilling the coolant at 80k miles. I have to sit in driveway and hold accelerator until it gets to 220° F then drive it 20+ miles at 70mph to get it to passive regen but I feel like I have to change the oil every time. How do I get it to high idle?
Working in a cat dealer parts department the tier 4 , 4.5 emissions are killing these machines. Nothing but def manifolds, pumps, sender unit issues every day. How about doing a video on driving these emissions trucks? What you can do, rpm range, gear selection to try to keep the dpf from building up soot level so fast? I drive my truck 60/40 city , highway and the dpf percentage seems to go up 15-20 % a week.
Mine site an a shop 68f
I do pull 10k trailer but I do creep out of it and role out of town for 1-2 miles at 25mph and once I hit highway I’m at 120-140f water and I slow accelerate till I hit 60 and after couple more miles has full temp
I have an old 7.3 ford diesel 2002. How long should I warm up?
Dave’s auto says 5-10 seconds and put it in gear 😂😂😂😂😂 dudes a joke
And don’t forget Dave’s mystery oil
It's good for business
@@Steadierpark yaeh lol “by muh snake ole”👴🏻. Dave’s getting his a$$ handed to him by mechanics on TikTok right now. Dude is always doing his customers dirty building bad engine stealing parts off them and ghosting them.
Check out Optilube XPD, the packaging, labeling and dosage - ironically are near identical...plus the cost.... staying with stanadyne formulas for my 6.7 powestroke and diy potentiometer high idle mod..
@@Nathang2233 stealing parts? And bad rebuilds I never heard that and I was.considering taking my stuff to him if needed in future that sounds terrible
Do you know when the mega cab is going to come
I’m guessing feb- march
No expert but my opinion is no load get going after 30 seconds and drive very light. I have an 05 cummins and i dont go over 1300 rpm when warming up. If your loaded then theres basically no way to drive light so let it warm up to abt where you said but remember trans temps to
Idling takes a lot longer to warm up vs driving. Not going to let truck idle for 20-30 minutes to “warm up”.
This discussion is useless… if you’re running these trucks with emissions. The forced re-gens are destroying these motors.
Only re-gen when driving now
I agree but the new scr system on my 23 is way better than my 16. You don’t even know it’s happening other than smell if you’re paying attention.
2023 f350 cc/kuv 6.8 gas
4 transmission fluid leaks under 20 thousand miles...
Any one have any idea why this would be happening?
Ford has no clue....
Thanks and take care
If it's leaking from the plastic pan, get one of the Banks or similar aluminum ones and a new ford gasket. If not, I've seen other brands with porous casings.
@@seagullsbtnOh the joys of owning a Ford.
Truck doesn't move until oil temp hits 120F
if they weren't meant to be idled to warm up they wouldn't put a remote start on them
I warm up and cool down 5ish minutes
I totally agree