Interesting approach to mineral - or other loose-loads - TT, if a bit messy. i've done mineral loads for coal, ironstone and other wagons, usually on a hard plastic surface with plastic strip in an 'H' shape under the load surface to raise the loads to required height. I build the load surface with layers of plastic, shaped concentrically and overlaid with plastic filler. Before adding the load I spread p.v.a., get a small sheet of paper folded down the middle to put under the load unit and sprinkle. When done I shake and pour the excess back into the container. Any gaps can be dabbed with p.v.a, and more sprinkled and shaken. The idea behind this approach is that I can attach metal under the 'load platform' and lift the load by magnet. I used to lever the loads out with a blade before returning. As i've acquired a lot of steel weights from wagons I detailed I have a lot of spare metal. All the same, as i've said, your method is interesting. We all have different approaches and i'm sure your followers will be keen to copy your method. Have a good year, 2021, stay safe.
Great little tutorial! Must say that's a very clever idea on how to get it the right size and not to damage the wagons edges! Excellent work and thanks for sharing!
SDJR7F88 Hi. Thanks, they turned out pretty good didn't they. The cling film trick does indeed work well, I have made real coal and sand loads the same way.
Great how to video, come just at the right time for me as I've got a number of wagons I want to put loads in, had been thinking of cutting up cardboard for base's but the styrene is much better and using the cling wrap is a great idea, thanks for sharing Al
Alan Murphy Hi Alan, many thanks I'm glad you found it useful. I think this method works well with a variety of loads so I hope it works just as well for you too. Cheers. Tom
Following your technique I am extremely pleased with the result. I managed to fill a 2ft6ins X 4ins tray which looks very authentic in my barge. Tip: go to your pet store for aquarium gravel in all sizes and colours much cheaper than the hobby shops also availaible in Black looks just like coal in scale.
Hi you could place a round Steel washer on top of the poly styrene Paint the washer Grey or the color of the load. Then when you want to unload ur wagon load use a strong magnet. Just make sure the insides are free of debris and/ or PVA glue. So the load can lift out easily and quickly. And yes U do use the clear wrap under the polystirene.. only to help form the load. Have fun!!! .
Great video on the techniques of making wagon loads .Have made some wagon loads using this method for a rake of coal wagons using real coal which I broke up into smaller pieces and looks very realistic and gives the wagons a bit of weight too .Highly recommended idea you have shown .My next project is to make ballast wagons using fish tank gravel for ballast wagons using the same method that you have shown .M any thanks for the great tips to make my own wagon loads
Hello. Thank you for subscribing and I am glad you enjoyed this and found it useful. This idea does indeed work for many kinds of wagon loads I have also done coal and sand this way too. Thanks again.
thanks for the tutorial. I am modelling around Matlock too so useful info and must procure a bunch of the wagons to renumber and put loads into as well. Great idea. I have found that weathering powders after the diluted glue mix dries knocks off that slight sheen that PVA glue mixes tends to leave and takes no time to do either. Just an idea that I find works for me.
Hello. Thanks for commenting and I'm glad you enjoyed watching and found it useful. I'm loosely modelling Cromford wharf so these fit rather well as well as a few George Lovegrove wagons form longcliffe quarry also go quite well. I have played around with some washes on the hopper loads shown is this video to achieve the same effect but will have a try with the powders too. Thanks for the tip.
That bag of stones you produced near the start looks like someone is selling kitty-litter as ballast. I take it you normally keep your loads in your wagons full-time. For a removable load, try starting with the foam slightly loose, and then glue a nail to it before adding the ballast. That way you can easily lift it out with a magnet at the end of its run. I do the same thing with coal loads on balsa cores, although my gravel hoppers use live loads now that the working tipple is built.
Hello, Yeah it is very coarse for ballast but it is crushed stones i can assure you. Yes i leave the loads in now really but i like the idea of the nail in the load for magnet removal. Very clever that and I shall have a go. Many thanks. Tom
Hi Tom,,,,, Mark gave you a mention,,,, Never come across your site,,, he said your wagon loads were great,,, and yes indeed a well presented How to,,,, and some lovely history / background on the stone merchant / usage (Would love a few of them myself in N gauge im modeling a section of line just further north from Wirksworth (Haddon to Bakewell) I will check out some of your other stuff and try and get a grip of what your aiming for as and when I can,,,,,,,, Best regards ,,, Alan
***** Hi Alan, many thanks for subscribing. I'm glad you enjoyed the wagon loads video and found it useful. I enjoy a bit of local history so will follow the development of your Haddon/Bakewell line with interest. I'm currently just embarking on a new layout project in the loft where I hope to create something based to the Monsal Dale viaduct and Frair Gate station in Derby.Thanks again,All the bestTom
TeacherTiger That will be epic,,, I know Monsal very well,,, I did consider that myself ,,, but My Dad took us trainspotting just behind Coombs road viaduct ,,,, and at Bakewell so that was my motivation ,,,,, But my idea for depicting the unloading of coal and it been driven off over the bridge is at the moment looking in doubt,,,, Cheers and all the best ,,,,,, Alan
Hi ,i have just discovered your channel and just watched all your videos .Can i start by saying what a great layout ,so much going on in such a small space! .Great track plan ,it looks great fun ,your children must love it ,that is when you let them have a go!. Good idea with the wagon loads ,when i come to do the water on my layout i was wondering if the cling film trick could be used as a base for the "clearwater" to prevent some of the problems people are encountering .Regards Andy h. Have subscribed .
andy huggins Thanks Andy, that's very kind of you to say. The littleuns love the layout it's difficult to get my boy out of the garage some days! Not sure about the clingfilm and realistic water to be honest, best to ask someone who has used it I guess. I don't see why it wouldn't work but it might look a bit scruffy round the edges. Thanks for subscribing. All the best. Tom
TheZimma Hi Tony, yes these are from the Hornby 2014 range, got them from my local model shop, they were a fiver each so got two. P.s I'm a Tom, not a Richard. hehe
A question from the States; how are the prototypes of these cars, or wagons, as you call them, unloaded? Do they have drop-sides or are the contents shoveled out by hand/machine?
Hello to the States, the real life wagons have a drop door that hinges from the bottom in the middle of both sides. The two black bands on the model represent the metal work on the door and frame edges. Hope that helps. Thanks for commenting.
Excellent idea, will give this a go myself. Thanks! John
Good idea. Only issue being the internal wagon sides looking pristine.
Interesting approach to mineral - or other loose-loads - TT, if a bit messy. i've done mineral loads for coal, ironstone and other wagons, usually on a hard plastic surface with plastic strip in an 'H' shape under the load surface to raise the loads to required height. I build the load surface with layers of plastic, shaped concentrically and overlaid with plastic filler. Before adding the load I spread p.v.a., get a small sheet of paper folded down the middle to put under the load unit and sprinkle. When done I shake and pour the excess back into the container. Any gaps can be dabbed with p.v.a, and more sprinkled and shaken. The idea behind this approach is that I can attach metal under the 'load platform' and lift the load by magnet. I used to lever the loads out with a blade before returning. As i've acquired a lot of steel weights from wagons I detailed I have a lot of spare metal.
All the same, as i've said, your method is interesting. We all have different approaches and i'm sure your followers will be keen to copy your method. Have a good year, 2021, stay safe.
Great little tutorial! Must say that's a very clever idea on how to get it the right size and not to damage the wagons edges! Excellent work and thanks for sharing!
SDJR7F88 Hi. Thanks, they turned out pretty good didn't they. The cling film trick does indeed work well, I have made real coal and sand loads the same way.
Brilliant video Tom. I like the idea of using Clingfilm, excellent. Well done Tom.
Great how to video, come just at the right time for me as I've got a number of wagons I want to put loads in, had been thinking of cutting up cardboard for base's but the styrene is much better and using the cling wrap is a great idea, thanks for sharing
Al
Alan Murphy Hi Alan, many thanks I'm glad you found it useful. I think this method works well with a variety of loads so I hope it works just as well for you too. Cheers. Tom
This is a very clean and clever way to make the loads authentic. I am about to try your method in a scratch built barge. Great advice thanks.
Hello Paul. Thanks for your comment and apologies for the delay in responding. I hope it worked well in your barge! All the best.
Following your technique I am extremely pleased with the result. I managed to fill a 2ft6ins X 4ins tray which looks very authentic in my barge. Tip: go to your pet store for aquarium gravel in all sizes and colours much cheaper than the hobby shops also availaible in Black looks just like coal in scale.
Hi you could place a round Steel washer on top of the poly styrene
Paint the washer Grey or the color of the load. Then when you want to unload ur wagon load use a strong magnet. Just make sure the insides are free of debris and/ or PVA glue. So the load can lift out easily and quickly. And yes U do use the clear wrap under the polystirene.. only to help form the load. Have fun!!!
.
Great video on the techniques of making wagon loads .Have made some wagon loads using this method for a rake of coal wagons using real coal which I broke up into smaller pieces and looks very realistic and gives the wagons a bit of weight too .Highly recommended idea you have shown .My next project is to make ballast wagons using fish tank gravel for ballast wagons using the same method that you have shown .M any thanks for the great tips to make my own wagon loads
Hello. Thank you for subscribing and I am glad you enjoyed this and found it useful. This idea does indeed work for many kinds of wagon loads I have also done coal and sand this way too.
Thanks again.
thanks for the tutorial. I am modelling around Matlock too so useful info and must procure a bunch of the wagons to renumber and put loads into as well. Great idea. I have found that weathering powders after the diluted glue mix dries knocks off that slight sheen that PVA glue mixes tends to leave and takes no time to do either. Just an idea that I find works for me.
Hello. Thanks for commenting and I'm glad you enjoyed watching and found it useful. I'm loosely modelling Cromford wharf so these fit rather well as well as a few George Lovegrove wagons form longcliffe quarry also go quite well. I have played around with some washes on the hopper loads shown is this video to achieve the same effect but will have a try with the powders too. Thanks for the tip.
very nice effect well done!
Thank you. I think it works quite well :)
That bag of stones you produced near the start looks like someone is selling kitty-litter as ballast.
I take it you normally keep your loads in your wagons full-time. For a removable load, try starting with the foam slightly loose, and then glue a nail to it before adding the ballast. That way you can easily lift it out with a magnet at the end of its run. I do the same thing with coal loads on balsa cores, although my gravel hoppers use live loads now that the working tipple is built.
Hello,
Yeah it is very coarse for ballast but it is crushed stones i can assure you. Yes i leave the loads in now really but i like the idea of the nail in the load for magnet removal. Very clever that and I shall have a go.
Many thanks. Tom
Hi Tom,,,,, Mark gave you a mention,,,, Never come across your site,,, he said your wagon loads were great,,, and yes indeed a well presented How to,,,, and some lovely history / background on the stone merchant / usage (Would love a few of them myself in N gauge im modeling a section of line just further north from Wirksworth (Haddon to Bakewell) I will check out some of your other stuff and try and get a grip of what your aiming for as and when I can,,,,,,,, Best regards ,,, Alan
***** Hi Alan, many thanks for subscribing. I'm glad you enjoyed the wagon loads video and found it useful. I enjoy a bit of local history so will follow the development of your Haddon/Bakewell line with interest. I'm currently just embarking on a new layout project in the loft where I hope to create something based to the Monsal Dale viaduct and Frair Gate station in Derby.Thanks again,All the bestTom
TeacherTiger That will be epic,,, I know Monsal very well,,, I did consider that myself ,,, but My Dad took us trainspotting just behind Coombs road viaduct ,,,, and at Bakewell so that was my motivation ,,,,, But my idea for depicting the unloading of coal and it been driven off over the bridge is at the moment looking in doubt,,,, Cheers and all the best ,,,,,, Alan
Hi ,i have just discovered your channel and just watched all your videos .Can i start by saying what a great layout ,so much going on in such a small space! .Great track plan ,it looks great fun ,your children must love it ,that is when you let them have a go!. Good idea with the wagon loads ,when i come to do the water on my layout i was wondering if the cling film trick could be used as a base for the "clearwater" to prevent some of the problems people are encountering .Regards Andy h. Have subscribed .
andy huggins Thanks Andy, that's very kind of you to say. The littleuns love the layout it's difficult to get my boy out of the garage some days! Not sure about the clingfilm and realistic water to be honest, best to ask someone who has used it I guess. I don't see why it wouldn't work but it might look a bit scruffy round the edges. Thanks for subscribing. All the best. Tom
Good one :) Can this be done with sand?
Great information, I have subbed you.
Barry.Devon
Hi Richard great how to video,nice wagons are they Hornby Railroad ones,cheers Tony
TheZimma Hi Tony, yes these are from the Hornby 2014 range, got them from my local model shop, they were a fiver each so got two. P.s I'm a Tom, not a Richard. hehe
TeacherTiger
Sorry Tom i got mixed up its my age lol,cheers Tony
TheZimma Not to worry Tony. no need to apologise we've all done it. Cheers, Tom
Should the interior not be weathered a bit before inserting the loads.
A question from the States; how are the prototypes of these cars, or wagons, as you call them, unloaded? Do they have drop-sides or are the contents shoveled out by hand/machine?
Hello to the States, the real life wagons have a drop door that hinges from the bottom in the middle of both sides. The two black bands on the model represent the metal work on the door and frame edges.
Hope that helps. Thanks for commenting.
Scale for these fine prices of rolling stock please?
These are OO gauge or 1:76 scale