I bought my smoke machine (a cheapy with the pump rammed into the built-in tank) off ebay with a dead pump, wasn't actually dead, just worn out, took it to bits, thought I'd test it while it was open, the piston shot across the room and to date I've still not found it... :P Never needed the machine, I'm just obsessed with electricals... :P
As long as you're looking for it, you'll never find it. The trick is to put it out of your mind, convince it that you're no longer looking for it. Then it will suddenly appear somewhere you're sure you couldn't have missed looking before.
Clive, I have watched your videos for years out of interest and curiosity. I recently was working on my dehumidifier whose water pump was not functioning properly. I disassembled the machine and found a nameplate on the solenoid pump which I combined with a few key words on Google only to find your video. I should have known you’d have a video on this very topic. The pump I have is similar in construction but not identical. The operating principle is the same. I had to get this pump operational today so I simply cleaned the gunk and lightly lubricated the culprit o-ring (I know eventually the o-ring will swell a bit when in the presence of petroleum oils) and it worked. I appreciate your videos and all of the interesting stuff you’ve put out over the years. Thank you.
This video has come to my rescue for the second year in a row! Last year it was a blockage, this time that pesky o-ring needed a trim (and when my Dremel attachments didn't do the job, my wife's electronic nail file was just the ticket!). Thank you Clive!
I've encountered the case when diode was blown that I've replaced. Cleaned that with IPA and oxalic acid, washed through with distilled water using veterinary syringe then reassembled. That smoke machine worked at least 8 years after that.Very thorough explanation, thank you, Clive!
Vladimir at first I thought you were saying you could fix a blown diode with IPA and oxalic acid. Was gonna say I've been doing it the wrong way all this time, I've been cleaning my diodes with white vinegar.
I brough my haze machine home (which is essentially a low output smoke machine and a high output 240 volt fan at the front on a 45 Deg (ish) angle, which disperses the smoke quickly so it doesn't look as frightening when it comes out of the machine) and I was faced with exactly this problem : I knew the pump wasn't working. Lo and behold your channel pops up and the fix of the first o-ring being flattened was exactly the problem the pump was all the way in one direction and wasn't coming back enough off the buffer. Popped in a 6 x 1 mm o-ring (I service air rifles, so I have 1000's in zip lock bags) and would you believe it the bloody thing works again. Now I'm going back to making more Joule thieves (it feels like somehow I'm saying thank you, with the added bonus of keeping the few quid I have in my pocket). Please keep up the excellent work, your channel keeps me going when all around me have failed.
It started off looking like a crudely simple device but turned out to have more springs and o rings per square centimetre than any device I've ever seen. Especially tiny ones at that. Thanks for sharing. 😎👌🏼
Thank you for sharing!!!! I work in live audio/production and fixed scores of smoke/hazers but never repaired a pump. It was always the case of ring distributor and sometimes get lucky, sometimes not........Didn't realise that these cheap pumps came apart, off to look through the bone yard of dead machines now!....Thank you, love your channel.
Excellent, thank you so much. I used this to fix my steam mop with a 30DCB in it. I'd already dismantled everything else and descaled it and came to the conclusion the pump was the only other thing. It's now working like a dream.
I love your videos! When I saw your video when I searched for fixing my smoke machine pump I knew this one would be the only one I need to watch... Now it's working again - thank you!
Thank you for this video. Due to your full tear down I was able to determine the plastic housing in the donut hole of the solenoid connecting the piston to the fluid input nipple was broken. I ordered the same pump in this video for my Froggy's Fog F4 Fobble machine. FYI - for those who have my same issue, read on. I had to reuse the black cone shaped o-ring from the output side of the original pump to seal the existing silver metal tubing to the new gold colored nut. I wired it from red to brown and black to blue using Scotchlok UR2 butt splice connectors. I left the diode on the wire. She runs great!
Big Clive I sure do appreciate you posting this video. The pump that I had to deal with was in my wife's steam mop. It was a different design but the internals were exactly alike. Save me some money.
Have two small smoke machines here that aren't working after running only a short period of time at all. I'll definitely give it a try to fix one after seeing your video. Thanks for sharing!!!
Man I wish I had found your video before brute forcing my pump open. Had to cut slots in the crimp of the housing then pry open the crimp. Oh well, luckily the crimp didn't need to be water sealed tight 😊. Thank you for another wonderful, easy to understand video. Love your stuff 👍
I've been rebuilding fog machine pumps for a few years and this was a very helpful video. I didn't know the little red O-ring was subject to swelling, and I don't have any on hand. I was able to get my existing pump running enough to verify the heater wasn't clogged but I'm not getting the volume of fog I expect from a 1KW. All the other parts look good so I have to assume the tiny red O-ring is the culprit. Thanks for the "class".
Thanks, had a fog machine that stopped working after a single season again. Pump hummed but didn’t work. Disassembled and it turned out to be an issue with that very small gasket you were talking about. In this case, the gasket was rubber and didn’t allow proper travel of the metal piece. Scrapped the inside out a little in place with a utility knife. It started working again. To test, you remove this gasket put the pump back together without it and see if it runs.
Now that's handy info as the pumps in some very expensive bean to cup coffee machines are almost identical in operation and cost a small fortune to replace
Brilliant video. Exactly the same pump as in a floor mop that I'm trying to repair. The whole heater was blocked with scale. Ive cleaned it and descaled everything. It worked brilliant at first but then stopped. I rechecked and no blockages so i took the pump apart, I can hear it trying so I'm at a loss. Now seeing your great video Im going to bench test it and check that seal is not too tight. Thanks.
WOW! You are the man! I had a steam mop just sitting around for over a year because it wasn't producing any steam and your video was just specific enough to help me fix it. One of the springs was not lined up properly so I think the pulsating part wasn't moving as it should. THANKS for this video.
Hi you need to change the description as this is the same pump used in the H20 x5 steam mop that often fails because of a blocked pump. Your video saved me buying a new mop.
Wow, what a great detailed and informative video. It didn't really help me with my issue... but it gave me an in depth understanding of how the pump works, and it was fun to watch.
Well i took it apart again and sure enough the solenoid plunger was sticking on the rubber seal. I flied the inner of the seal but although it improved it was still sticking so I used a blade and gently scraped the plastic where the outer par of the seal goes. Its working perfectly thanks. Its an H2O Steam Cleaner. Thanks again.
Excellent video. I had issue with my pump which is very similar. Yes the O ring had swollen preventing the plunger to move back and forth. I too had problems sourcing the correct O ring. I found one that was slightly oversize on the inner diameter and slightly larger on the outer diameter. When fitted it was too tight on the inner. I gently slid the O ring over the shank of a drill bit and with a needle file ran it over the outer whilst spinning in a cordless drill until the fit was perfect. It's now working better than when the smoke machine was new. Thanks again for the tip.
Thank you so much for making this video - just as you described my pump needed a thorough cleaning. I didn't realize they came apart. My pump is working perfectly again thanks to you!!! Pump was from a Bubble Fogger machine - just in time for Halloween. ;)
Can add counter top ice cube making machines to the list. My mother has one with a pump nearly identical to this one, only difference is a strapped down connector on the output instead of a compression fitting. Been meaning to open it up and see if the pump is crudded up, it doesn't fill properly anymore which is a real shame considering that thing has incredibly good cooling pipes.
Thank you so much. I found a Shark steam mop that someone was throwing away. I took it to pieces and thanks to your video it's now working brilliantly. :-D
Great video. Thanks. In my case, I will need to scrap my OEM pump and buy another. My OEM pump is made of brass instead of plastic. The spring plunger w/ the small rubber head that goes in the brass hole was stuck. The only way I could get it out was to force 100PSI of compressed air from the other side. Once out, I had a hard time to get it back in the hole. I tried sanding the inside of the brass hole w/ 320, 400 and 600 grit sand paper. I cleaned out much of the build-up but the plunger would still not move freely inside that hole. I tried the pump w/ the plunger stuck at the bottom and I tried it without the plunger installed. No luck. Amazon, here I come.... Anyway, thanks for the time you spent putting this video together.
Time to get the fog machine out, last time I ran vinegar thru it I took it out side my son and his friends were playing. They all got ready for smoke and bam vinegar was is the air. I got a laugh.
In my case the pump was stuck, but I just opened it up as in this video, cleaned it a bit and then tightened the valve part, but maybe 3/4 way through. Turned the pump on and it rang like crazy. Then I disconnected the pump and tightened the valve a bit more, turned it on, it worked and was more quiet. Then I disconnected it again and tightened it fully. It works.
As long as you thoroughly flush it with distilled water afterward, there's no harm in using an acid for cleaning. I use citric acid, as it's more aggressive than vinegar, and less expensive per unit volume if you know where to look. Also, it dissolves solid deposits MUCH better when it's HOT. Thanks for the tear-down and explanation of how it works, Clive! :)
Hello Clive. I hope you are well. I've been given some of these that don't work and all have been a case of blockage. I'm sure my method of clearing it would not be "Clive Approved" but worked. I had no clue the pump would disassemble that easily. Thanks and have a great weekend.
Pumping fluids at enough pressure to force cleaner to bypass the 2 check valves. There's a magic point in which the valves neither block or pass and that allows water to chase enough blockage through to clear it up.
@@bigclivedotcom That is an accurate assumpion. There are three wire mesh screens prior to the water reaching the pump in the one I have. The entire unit requires disassembly and cleaning 2-3 times per year. Cheers Clive.
Word to the (un)wise: If for some reason you brute-force this thing open (ie remove the white plastic cover you normally unscrew the right angle shaft from), when putting it back together the white cover wants to be just so slightly above the contact spacer/stand, about a 16th of an inch. It's also critical that the right angle shaftt is directly in line with the hose connector on the other end (check all sides), otherwise the solenoid inside with either just hum or rattle like mad. I found you can put a slightly thick washer between the stand spacer and the white cover. That will help maintain the correct gap. If you have the gap too small, you won't be able to screw in the right angle shaft and it will keep slipping like it's stripped (it's plastic threads so when push cones to shove, they let go). The diameter of the white cover is larger than the center brass tube and you need this center. The diameter of the right angle shaft will help maintain the correct centering once screwed in but getting the gap, direct center and overall tightness is a science to get it all just right. Slap some alligator clips on a standard 3prong household wire and test your progress in the sink. (Take pictures of which wite goes where - ground is the wire plugged into back of pump if it exists, wire with inline diode goes to hot (black) other wire to white (neutral)). Or it might work either way. I didn't check. Best scenario? Watch bigclive videos before you start tearing things apart the wrong way 😂
Thanks Clive. Now I know how to take the pump apart in my coffee machine, it's been on a go slow for ages. I might try disconnecting the heating element and put white vinegar through it first.
With internal combustion engine carburetors, the float bowl gaskets like to swell in the presence of gasoline. One way to try and get it to go back to shape is to either leave it out to off gas or to boil it in some water for 5-10 minutes to drive off all the gasoline. Maybe that would work with those 6mm rings??
At 13:04 frame, you can see a ~ 5mm straight "slot" on the metal piece. When pump is activated in our fog machine, water leaks out of this "slot". Other than water leaking from this spot, the fog machine works fine. Any thoughts on why water is leaking here? thnx
back in the days of the old coffee machines with paper filter and ground coffee I remember the smell of hot vinegar sputtering out from the coffee machine during descaling maintenance. Its a foul smell indeed.
I got a variety of silicone O-rings from Amazon, very reasonable. The ones I got were not metric; not sure if they've got those but probably so. It might help with the stiicking issues.
Thank you sooo much you've earned a subscriber. Before we found your video me and my dad was having a hard time trying to fix ours and we found this video and helped us a lot thank you!!
I've stripped my pump down on bubble/smoke machine. Beamz SB2000LED It's model is 30dsb-zjf pump 50hz 18w. My machine works for a while then the smoke seems to stop. Is it the pump or could it be the heater element not heating the fluid? The pump seems to work though. Any thoughts?
If the pump is pushing through liquid then the heater block may be blocked up. It may be possible to dissolve any blockage with a weak acid like white vinegar in water. Complete heater pipe blockage is a fairly common machine failure.
@@bigclivedotcom I'll try white vinegar through it. I've flushed through with distilled battery water after use. Frustration is I've only had it out twice to use and after about an hour the smoke stops and it's just bubbles blowing... Making it an expensive bubble machine lol If I get a new pump off the net... I see they say 500w 900w etc. Does it matter which you get as mine is a 2000w unit.
Got a diaphragm pump on my Rug Doctor, little sod's decided to run intermittently, when it runs at all it runs for a few seconds then stops. Hopefully it's the diode as the pump is eighty quid.
@@bigclivedotcom Update: checked it today with a power meter, the RugDoctor's pump was drawing power whether it was pumping or not (and the same amount, too). Tipped out the tank and put clean hot water in it, then after a few minutes of switching it on and off, hooking up attachments, etc. it started to behave a bit more consistently (though not reliably), I was then able to leave the pump running to flush itself clear. Likely culprit: a tankful of upholstery cleaner left to go cold in the machine. All working now :)
Clive, how can I send you something? I have a couple of LED light bulbs I have use with a dimmer, and over time, they started to glow yellow and a mysterious brown liquid has appeared within the bulb. I figured you would like to take a look.
If there's a dribble of liquid then it's possible that an electrolytic capacitor has failed and leaked. If it's a lot then a possible scenario is that water from above the ceiling has entered the lamp in some way and caused discoloration and corrosion.
I'm thinking its an issue with the capacitor. The lamps were originally bright white, but after about a month, the lamp decreased in brightness and started to glow a warm yellow light. I replaced it, and the new lamp has the same issue.
many thanks, i followed your vid, removed my pump from my fog/bubble machine that had stopped pumping. Striped it down, put it back together and it then worked again. the metal brass 'o' sleeve i soaked in Cilit Bang, to clean it up. Not sure if that made any difference though lol
(⚠️Innuendo warning!) The last thing you want is a puffed up ring round your shaft! I had an old, cheap air conditioner with one of those pumps for the condensate drainage and it sounded like a woodpecker on speed!
Thank you for this video. That puffed-up o-ring is exactly what got me wonder 🤔 I'd need a 2 cents part to get smoking again, yet can hardly find any offer below €5 ... for 10 or more of those buggers. I need to find the nearest repair shop and talk rubber seals 🦭 ... Also, your video is awesome 😎👍 - nicely done, friend.
I repaired my smoke machine by using a better pump. What you got there is the cheapest available. It never failed since then. Would you show us a professional pump? Sometimes the heater gets clogged, too. If you use a thyristor you don't need the diode.
The diode is interesting, why don't they just use the negative half of the sine wave to pull the plunger back? There's probably a good reason for that?
My personal guess would be energy consumption. Having the negative half move current too would double power consumption and isn't neccesary since a spring does the same job as a passive device requiring no power. Not an engineer, but that'd be my guess.
@@picobyte Not the issue. The magnet would not turn off. The piston would stay attracted because the magnetic field needs time to collapse. The solenoid would not have time to cool off either and the coil would burn out. You could have two coils and suck the piston to each end of its stroke using coils at each end but that doubles the cost when in this case a spring is adequate. If you were pumping something thicker you maybe could use the force generated from the other coil instead of a spring. FYI, solenoids are disturbing powerful little things, and simple, and cheap. The tradeoff is one direction power only. If you decide to play with one.... watch your fingers :p
Got rid of my 3000 Watt smoke machine last year, after many years of scaring the local kids, only have my crap Martin jewel 24/7 fog machine left that has the usual blocked heater, would love to know where to get another heater from.
You can also try to boil the o-ring in clean water and in most cases it'll return to its original dimensions. I use that trick for o-rings that touch fuel in automotive applications. Just don't let it touch the bottom of the pot or it may melt to it.
Thank you again for this vid clive. I run a fj set in my garage every halloween and i got a fogger last year. Last night it wasnt having it but thanks to your vid, you saved my ass and it is working perfectly now. Happy Halloween!
This is a fantastic video, thanks for making it! I use fog and haze regularly- some people insist that you should clean your machine after every use. I'm pretty sure this is probably the best way to get the best results for the longest amount of time. But do you think it's actually neccessary? If you use your machine for a few hours and it just sits there until next halloween, that's one thing, but if a machine ise used say, every 2-3 weeks, or every 1-2 days, or once a month- do you think it's necessarily different? I'm sure there are all sorts of variables- which machine, what is the chemical composition of the haze/fog fluid you use, how long was it used, what temp was the machine running at etc etc, but in general, for someone who uses it regularly, do you think it makes a difference? Maybe a simpler way to ask is, how long does it take (on average, for most types of fluid), for the remnants of the fluid to cake up and cause the system to become clogged? Which is simplistic, because there are any number of other things that can happen besides the pump being clogged because of the fluid residue. But aside from the physics, electronics and engineering of it all! Do you happen to have a link for the o-rings that you've used? Is there a range of types and sizes, or 1-2 that are most common? Thanks!
I wouldn't clean it after every use. Just after a reasonable length of usage. The purity of the liquid is what usually determines the amount of residue in the heater.
The vapor juice in fog machines is propylene glycol, which is the same chemical in liquid cough and cold syrups, and is totally safe to vape, breathe in, and consume.
A few different glycols are used including triethylene glycol and the rather shady sounding butylene glycol. In some haze machines a glycerol fluid is used.
What if it's the motor that isn't working? Cuz i was allowed to take home the fog machine from work because it wasn't being used and it heats up but the motor won't work and there's no sound coming from it
When servicing hot pressure washers, one must descale the heating coil, which is a coiled steel tube, forming a drum shape into which diesel is sprayed ignited and air forced in with a fan. It gets very scaled quite quickly - a bit like a monster kettle, but angrier. We use hydrochloric acid for this task and it is a pretty scary process, as you are basically dealing with over 100°C steam/water at around about 2500 PSI and so you can imagine what happens when we pour in HCL to this mix! By comparison, a small bit of vinegar in a small copper pipe, well...
Hi Since a week I work to bring steamer cleaner back to life. All you said was mega helpfull ,expecially the O-ring which cause pump disfunction. Also you said it's difficult to find replacement. I think I have found solution how to safe it by making it functional. If you want to know we can talk. Regards Miro
My original pump had a third wire for a ground tab. The new pump I ordered looks like the one you have with no ground tab. I hooked it up without it and it works but would you know if this is needed?
Hmmm vinegar steam... Does that kill weeds? This is a terrible idea where I live though, thinking of the neighbors and their outdoor pets. I do actually have a fog machine completely clogged and full of fluid, just as it was when I found it on the street 10 years ago. Maybe it's rubber is totally wrecked but if it's fixable maybe a long pipe on the output could be used to condense and control the steam.
Heh, no, pushing water through it will not create vibration of the core, and even if it did, the core is not permanently magnetized enough to create any significant voltage in the stator winding.
water generators exist, they're often used to charge and run the hands free commercial faucets and flush valve setups. the touch free "hand wash" stations in commercial kitchens and bathrooms sometimes have them. they're a water wheel that spins a an actual generator.
The pump on my machine doesn't whir or vibrate. Is this because a) the pump is toast b)there is some kind of cutout circut on the board? c) does it stop making noise when it is thoroughly clogged? If A, what reading should I get across the leads if the motor is toast. I can hotwire it directly to 120v and expect it to whir up? Thanks (fascinated with things electronical)....
They clog up very easily, particularly when stored for a while. If you take it apart carefully you may be able to unclog it. The solenoid piston should move freely in the cylinder.
I bought my smoke machine (a cheapy with the pump rammed into the built-in tank) off ebay with a dead pump, wasn't actually dead, just worn out, took it to bits, thought I'd test it while it was open, the piston shot across the room and to date I've still not found it... :P
Never needed the machine, I'm just obsessed with electricals... :P
You will probably never ever find it. Its long gone.
It probably teleported into another universe where it will meet all the pens and erasers that were dropped in school and never found again
Zaklamp Don't forget socks and gloves. Really, why is it always my LEFT glove that goes missing?
As long as you're looking for it, you'll never find it. The trick is to put it out of your mind, convince it that you're no longer looking for it. Then it will suddenly appear somewhere you're sure you couldn't have missed looking before.
Buying a new one usually makes it show up
Clive, I have watched your videos for years out of interest and curiosity. I recently was working on my dehumidifier whose water pump was not functioning properly. I disassembled the machine and found a nameplate on the solenoid pump which I combined with a few key words on Google only to find your video. I should have known you’d have a video on this very topic. The pump I have is similar in construction but not identical. The operating principle is the same. I had to get this pump operational today so I simply cleaned the gunk and lightly lubricated the culprit o-ring (I know eventually the o-ring will swell a bit when in the presence of petroleum oils) and it worked. I appreciate your videos and all of the interesting stuff you’ve put out over the years. Thank you.
Many home espresso machines use these too!
No wonder the things seem to crap out so often. I find the pump makes a ton of noise but nothing happens, and it's almost always the pump that breaks.
That's where I recognised the sound from!
Yeah had one of these pack in and stop my morning caffeine fix. easy enough fix though.
They can wear out on the small coffee pod type machines I think if they are allowed to run dry too often
home ice makers too
This video has come to my rescue for the second year in a row! Last year it was a blockage, this time that pesky o-ring needed a trim (and when my Dremel attachments didn't do the job, my wife's electronic nail file was just the ticket!). Thank you Clive!
I've encountered the case when diode was blown that I've replaced. Cleaned that with IPA and oxalic acid, washed through with distilled water using veterinary syringe then reassembled. That smoke machine worked at least 8 years after that.Very thorough explanation, thank you, Clive!
Vladimir at first I thought you were saying you could fix a blown diode with IPA and oxalic acid. Was gonna say I've been doing it the wrong way all this time, I've been cleaning my diodes with white vinegar.
Thank you for your comment! Oxalate in the right place for once.
I brough my haze machine home (which is essentially a low output smoke machine and a high output 240 volt fan at the front on a 45 Deg (ish) angle, which disperses the smoke quickly so it doesn't look as frightening when it comes out of the machine) and I was faced with exactly this problem : I knew the pump wasn't working. Lo and behold your channel pops up and the fix of the first o-ring being flattened was exactly the problem the pump was all the way in one direction and wasn't coming back enough off the buffer. Popped in a 6 x 1 mm o-ring (I service air rifles, so I have 1000's in zip lock bags) and would you believe it the bloody thing works again. Now I'm going back to making more Joule thieves (it feels like somehow I'm saying thank you, with the added bonus of keeping the few quid I have in my pocket). Please keep up the excellent work, your channel keeps me going when all around me have failed.
Thank you. You gave me the confidence to examine my pump and fix the problem. Now it’s working again.
It started off looking like a crudely simple device but turned out to have more springs and o rings per square centimetre than any device I've ever seen. Especially tiny ones at that.
Thanks for sharing. 😎👌🏼
You Sir are an absolute gentleman! I fixed my FXLABS snow machine using your guide. You will make my sons very happy this Christmas :)
Thank you for sharing!!!! I work in live audio/production and fixed scores of smoke/hazers but never repaired a pump. It was always the case of ring distributor and sometimes get lucky, sometimes not........Didn't realise that these cheap pumps came apart, off to look through the bone yard of dead machines now!....Thank you, love your channel.
Excellent, thank you so much. I used this to fix my steam mop with a 30DCB in it. I'd already dismantled everything else and descaled it and came to the conclusion the pump was the only other thing. It's now working like a dream.
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you for the thorough explanation.
I love your videos! When I saw your video when I searched for fixing my smoke machine pump I knew this one would be the only one I need to watch... Now it's working again - thank you!
Thank you for this video. Due to your full tear down I was able to determine the plastic housing in the donut hole of the solenoid connecting the piston to the fluid input nipple was broken. I ordered the same pump in this video for my Froggy's Fog F4 Fobble machine. FYI - for those who have my same issue, read on. I had to reuse the black cone shaped o-ring from the output side of the original pump to seal the existing silver metal tubing to the new gold colored nut. I wired it from red to brown and black to blue using Scotchlok UR2 butt splice connectors. I left the diode on the wire. She runs great!
Big Clive I sure do appreciate you posting this video. The pump that I had to deal with was in my wife's steam mop. It was a different design but the internals were exactly alike. Save me some money.
Thank you for your tutorial.
Today I fixed my snow machine, which hasn't been used for 10 years.
Thank you 🎉
My dad used to say of mechanical things: "Son, you can fix most things by taking them apart, cleaning them, and putting them back together."
Yep, exactly.
Good advice!
The mechanical equivalent of turning it off and on.
That was true in the old days, when things were not made shitty and Chinese!
PirateKitty very true sadly.
Just used this to fix my snow machine, works absolutely fine now, thanks for posting.
I live in Karachi Pakistan and I like your comment
Have two small smoke machines here that aren't working after running only a short period of time at all. I'll definitely give it a try to fix one after seeing your video. Thanks for sharing!!!
after 6 hours of trying this video showed me what step i was missing! thank you
Man I wish I had found your video before brute forcing my pump open. Had to cut slots in the crimp of the housing then pry open the crimp. Oh well, luckily the crimp didn't need to be water sealed tight 😊. Thank you for another wonderful, easy to understand video. Love your stuff 👍
I've been rebuilding fog machine pumps for a few years and this was a very helpful video. I didn't know the little red O-ring was subject to swelling, and I don't have any on hand. I was able to get my existing pump running enough to verify the heater wasn't clogged but I'm not getting the volume of fog I expect from a 1KW. All the other parts look good so I have to assume the tiny red O-ring is the culprit. Thanks for the "class".
If the heater core is furring up then white vinegar may clean it.
Thanks, had a fog machine that stopped working after a single season again. Pump hummed but didn’t work. Disassembled and it turned out to be an issue with that very small gasket you were talking about. In this case, the gasket was rubber and didn’t allow proper travel of the metal piece. Scrapped the inside out a little in place with a utility knife. It started working again. To test, you remove this gasket put the pump back together without it and see if it runs.
An angry piston is a pistoff
Now that's handy info as the pumps in some very expensive bean to cup coffee machines are almost identical in operation and cost a small fortune to replace
Brilliant video. Exactly the same pump as in a floor mop that I'm trying to repair. The whole heater was blocked with scale. Ive cleaned it and descaled everything. It worked brilliant at first but then stopped. I rechecked and no blockages so i took the pump apart, I can hear it trying so I'm at a loss. Now seeing your great video Im going to bench test it and check that seal is not too tight. Thanks.
You can get replacement o-rings. A dab of silicone grease can get things going again.
WOW! You are the man! I had a steam mop just sitting around for over a year because it wasn't producing any steam and your video was just specific enough to help me fix it. One of the springs was not lined up properly so I think the pulsating part wasn't moving as it should. THANKS for this video.
Chris Kyle died in the battle rip
Google the part number, you're the first result and I now have a working steam mop. I should have known Big Clive would have a video on this. Thanks!
Hi you need to change the description as this is the same pump used in the H20 x5 steam mop that often fails because of a blocked pump. Your video saved me buying a new mop.
I've added that in. These common pumps are used in a lot of appliances.
Wow, what a great detailed and informative video. It didn't really help me with my issue... but it gave me an in depth understanding of how the pump works, and it was fun to watch.
I loved it the way you said it’s coming up to Christmas not long now
Well i took it apart again and sure enough the solenoid plunger was sticking on the rubber seal. I flied the inner of the seal but although it improved it was still sticking so I used a blade and gently scraped the plastic where the outer par of the seal goes. Its working perfectly thanks. Its an H2O Steam Cleaner. Thanks again.
I don’t even have a device with this pump, I’m just here for the video
One day you'll find one of these in a broken machine and remember how to fix it.
Excellent video. I had issue with my pump which is very similar. Yes the O ring had swollen preventing the plunger to move back and forth. I too had problems sourcing the correct O ring. I found one that was slightly oversize on the inner diameter and slightly larger on the outer diameter. When fitted it was too tight on the inner. I gently slid the O ring over the shank of a drill bit and with a needle file ran it over the outer whilst spinning in a cordless drill until the fit was perfect. It's now working better than when the smoke machine was new. Thanks again for the tip.
Another thing that helps is a dab of silicone grease on the plunger.
Thank you so much for making this video - just as you described my pump needed a thorough cleaning. I didn't realize they came apart. My pump is working perfectly again thanks to you!!! Pump was from a Bubble Fogger machine - just in time for Halloween. ;)
Can add counter top ice cube making machines to the list. My mother has one with a pump nearly identical to this one, only difference is a strapped down connector on the output instead of a compression fitting. Been meaning to open it up and see if the pump is crudded up, it doesn't fill properly anymore which is a real shame considering that thing has incredibly good cooling pipes.
Thank you so much. I found a Shark steam mop that someone was throwing away. I took it to pieces and thanks to your video it's now working brilliantly. :-D
I knew it! Piston return springs were real!
Bravo! You just saved me from buying a whole new snow machine. Thank you!
England -- the land of spicy volts
That was why early scientists dressed so nattily. Respect for the voltage.
and England was concerned where?
Not forgetting The People's Republic of South Yorkshire ...
@@johnbouttell5827 where men are men and sheep say nothing
Thank you. Got her going using the o-ring delete trick. Haven't tested with juice yet. We'll see how she holds up!
Thanks so much! This video revived my smoke machine. Much appreciated! I especially liked the o-ring cheap fix to remove a tiny segment.
Great video. Thanks.
In my case, I will need to scrap my OEM pump and buy another. My OEM pump is made of brass instead of plastic. The spring plunger w/ the small rubber head that goes in the brass hole was stuck. The only way I could get it out was to force 100PSI of compressed air from the other side. Once out, I had a hard time to get it back in the hole. I tried sanding the inside of the brass hole w/ 320, 400 and 600 grit sand paper. I cleaned out much of the build-up but the plunger would still not move freely inside that hole. I tried the pump w/ the plunger stuck at the bottom and I tried it without the plunger installed. No luck. Amazon, here I come....
Anyway, thanks for the time you spent putting this video together.
Thankfully, the pumps are pretty common and cheap.
I enjoyed the subtle innuendos. Excellent video!
Ah, Innuendos. Italian suppositories.
@@TheAmpair 😂😂😂
This is most excellent, Explained this pump wonderfully.
Time to get the fog machine out, last time I ran vinegar thru it I took it out side my son and his friends were playing. They all got ready for smoke and bam vinegar was is the air. I got a laugh.
euuw, yuck 😷 😜
Surly they where pickled.
Must have smelt like a fish'n'chip shop.
Yummy!
In my case the pump was stuck, but I just opened it up as in this video, cleaned it a bit and then tightened the valve part, but maybe 3/4 way through. Turned the pump on and it rang like crazy. Then I disconnected the pump and tightened the valve a bit more, turned it on, it worked and was more quiet. Then I disconnected it again and tightened it fully. It works.
Your detailed instructions just made my smoke machine work again :D
5:45 dat bugger o-ring was too tight. very common problem indeed.
thanks
As long as you thoroughly flush it with distilled water afterward, there's no harm in using an acid for cleaning. I use citric acid, as it's more aggressive than vinegar, and less expensive per unit volume if you know where to look. Also, it dissolves solid deposits MUCH better when it's HOT.
Thanks for the tear-down and explanation of how it works, Clive! :)
Hello Clive. I hope you are well. I've been given some of these that don't work and all have been a case of blockage. I'm sure my method of clearing it would not be "Clive Approved" but worked. I had no clue the pump would disassemble that easily.
Thanks and have a great weekend.
I'll guess forcing fluids through it? That works.
Pumping fluids at enough pressure to force cleaner to bypass the 2 check valves. There's a magic point in which the valves neither block or pass and that allows water to chase enough blockage through to clear it up.
Excellent video and the perfect fix for our sandwich steamer. Thanks for sharing!
These are also commonly used in freestanding dehumidifiers that have automatic pumps for draining.
Yeah, I've heard their distinctive sound in condensate pumps. I'd have thought they'd gunk up quite quickly.
@@bigclivedotcom That is an accurate assumpion. There are three wire mesh screens prior to the water reaching the pump in the one I have. The entire unit requires disassembly and cleaning 2-3 times per year. Cheers Clive.
I wonder if a peristaltic pump would work better, and maybe some kind of sterilising device.
Yes i fixed my K cup based coffee machine which used an almost identical pump. Excellent vid. As usual. Thanks bog C.
Word to the (un)wise: If for some reason you brute-force this thing open (ie remove the white plastic cover you normally unscrew the right angle shaft from), when putting it back together the white cover wants to be just so slightly above the contact spacer/stand, about a 16th of an inch. It's also critical that the right angle shaftt is directly in line with the hose connector on the other end (check all sides), otherwise the solenoid inside with either just hum or rattle like mad.
I found you can put a slightly thick washer between the stand spacer and the white cover. That will help maintain the correct gap. If you have the gap too small, you won't be able to screw in the right angle shaft and it will keep slipping like it's stripped (it's plastic threads so when push cones to shove, they let go). The diameter of the white cover is larger than the center brass tube and you need this center. The diameter of the right angle shaft will help maintain the correct centering once screwed in but getting the gap, direct center and overall tightness is a science to get it all just right. Slap some alligator clips on a standard 3prong household wire and test your progress in the sink. (Take pictures of which wite goes where - ground is the wire plugged into back of pump if it exists, wire with inline diode goes to hot (black) other wire to white (neutral)). Or it might work either way. I didn't check.
Best scenario? Watch bigclive videos before you start tearing things apart the wrong way 😂
Thanks for this video! I was able to fix my steam mop because of this.
Friend! You saved me! It was this damned ring - exactly this tiny shit! I've just enlarged it a bit - and now it works great! Thank You!
Excellent video, it helped me solve a problem with a smoke machine...
We like BigClive! Thank you for sharing your video and teardown. Things just got a lot simpler. I'll try it!
That is brilliant! Thank you so much for your time and help!
I've heard these called 'shuttle' or 'shuffle' pumps as well.
Also used in carpet wet extractors as a water/detergent pump as well.
Thank you so much great information. I am going to my Repair bench right now.
Thanks Clive. Now I know how to take the pump apart in my coffee machine, it's been on a go slow for ages. I might try disconnecting the heating element and put white vinegar through it first.
Some coffee machines have a cycle for descaler.
Thanks Clive. My machine works like new :)
With internal combustion engine carburetors, the float bowl gaskets like to swell in the presence of gasoline. One way to try and get it to go back to shape is to either leave it out to off gas or to boil it in some water for 5-10 minutes to drive off all the gasoline. Maybe that would work with those 6mm rings??
Here it's the crap alcohol they water down the gasoline with.
At 13:04 frame, you can see a ~ 5mm straight "slot" on the metal piece. When pump is activated in our fog machine, water leaks out of this "slot". Other than water leaking from this spot, the fog machine works fine. Any thoughts on why water is leaking here? thnx
That suggests a missing or pinched internal seal.
back in the days of the old coffee machines with paper filter and ground coffee I remember the smell of hot vinegar sputtering out from the coffee machine during descaling maintenance. Its a foul smell indeed.
Thanks. Helped me confirm the problem with my pump.
I got a variety of silicone O-rings from Amazon, very reasonable. The ones I got were not metric; not sure if they've got those but probably so. It might help with the stiicking issues.
Flushing with alcohol did it for me. Just make sure with fire that all of it gets flushed.
this video came right on time, had a zr44 that needs a date with the screwdriver this weekend...
Thank you sooo much you've earned a subscriber. Before we found your video me and my dad was having a hard time trying to fix ours and we found this video and helped us a lot thank you!!
A touch of silicone grease on the o-ring is also a good idea. Once you understand how these things work they are easy to take apart.
I've stripped my pump down on bubble/smoke machine. Beamz SB2000LED
It's model is 30dsb-zjf pump 50hz 18w.
My machine works for a while then the smoke seems to stop.
Is it the pump or could it be the heater element not heating the fluid?
The pump seems to work though.
Any thoughts?
If the pump is pushing through liquid then the heater block may be blocked up. It may be possible to dissolve any blockage with a weak acid like white vinegar in water. Complete heater pipe blockage is a fairly common machine failure.
@@bigclivedotcom I'll try white vinegar through it. I've flushed through with distilled battery water after use.
Frustration is I've only had it out twice to use and after about an hour the smoke stops and it's just bubbles blowing... Making it an expensive bubble machine lol
If I get a new pump off the net... I see they say 500w 900w etc. Does it matter which you get as mine is a 2000w unit.
It's _awfully_ similar to the pumps found in espresso machines too!
Got a diaphragm pump on my Rug Doctor, little sod's decided to run intermittently, when it runs at all it runs for a few seconds then stops. Hopefully it's the diode as the pump is eighty quid.
Might be worth probing to see if you're getting power to the whole thing reliably. Could also be a broken winding at a termination.
@@bigclivedotcom Update: checked it today with a power meter, the RugDoctor's pump was drawing power whether it was pumping or not (and the same amount, too). Tipped out the tank and put clean hot water in it, then after a few minutes of switching it on and off, hooking up attachments, etc. it started to behave a bit more consistently (though not reliably), I was then able to leave the pump running to flush itself clear. Likely culprit: a tankful of upholstery cleaner left to go cold in the machine. All working now :)
@@AintBigAintClever It does sound like it was just gunked up. Pretty common with the little pumps.
Thanks to the sound i now know what kind of pump is beeing used in my steam assisted oven in case it breaks down :)
It's a very common style of pump used in many applications. Another common one is some condensate pumps in air conditioning systems.
Clive, how can I send you something? I have a couple of LED light bulbs I have use with a dimmer, and over time, they started to glow yellow and a mysterious brown liquid has appeared within the bulb. I figured you would like to take a look.
If there's a dribble of liquid then it's possible that an electrolytic capacitor has failed and leaked. If it's a lot then a possible scenario is that water from above the ceiling has entered the lamp in some way and caused discoloration and corrosion.
I'm thinking its an issue with the capacitor. The lamps were originally bright white, but after about a month, the lamp decreased in brightness and started to glow a warm yellow light. I replaced it, and the new lamp has the same issue.
Quite complex little buggers.
many thanks, i followed your vid, removed my pump from my fog/bubble machine that had stopped pumping. Striped it down, put it back together and it then worked again.
the metal brass 'o' sleeve i soaked in Cilit Bang, to clean it up. Not sure if that made any difference though lol
(⚠️Innuendo warning!)
The last thing you want is a puffed up ring round your shaft!
I had an old, cheap air conditioner with one of those pumps for the condensate drainage and it sounded like a woodpecker on speed!
Good to know where I can get a big solenoid.
Thank you for this video. That puffed-up o-ring is exactly what got me wonder 🤔
I'd need a 2 cents part to get smoking again, yet can hardly find any offer below €5 ... for 10 or more of those buggers.
I need to find the nearest repair shop and talk rubber seals 🦭
... Also, your video is awesome 😎👍 - nicely done, friend.
I repaired my smoke machine by using a better pump. What you got there is the cheapest available.
It never failed since then.
Would you show us a professional pump?
Sometimes the heater gets clogged, too.
If you use a thyristor you don't need the diode.
My innuendo warning buzzer has just gone into overload.
Mine's just exploded everywhere - AND so has my innuendo buzzer! 😉
Reciprocation at 50 times a second. That's fast.
Thank you so much for creating this!
The diode is interesting, why don't they just use the negative half of the sine wave to pull the plunger back? There's probably a good reason for that?
The core isn't magnetic. It would be attracted in on both halves of the waveform.
Core would then need to be a magnet, aka a lot more expensive.
My personal guess would be energy consumption. Having the negative half move current too would double power consumption and isn't neccesary since a spring does the same job as a passive device requiring no power. Not an engineer, but that'd be my guess.
@@bigclivedotcom remove the diode. More smoke. Less runtime per cycle? Maybe full wave just is to fast for the piston to get back to start position.
@@picobyte Not the issue. The magnet would not turn off. The piston would stay attracted because the magnetic field needs time to collapse. The solenoid would not have time to cool off either and the coil would burn out.
You could have two coils and suck the piston to each end of its stroke using coils at each end but that doubles the cost when in this case a spring is adequate. If you were pumping something thicker you maybe could use the force generated from the other coil instead of a spring.
FYI, solenoids are disturbing powerful little things, and simple, and cheap. The tradeoff is one direction power only. If you decide to play with one.... watch your fingers :p
That inlet check valve: is it opening via water pressure or inertia? I'm guessing the latter, since the pump is drawing water up into the mechanism.
Got rid of my 3000 Watt smoke machine last year, after many years of scaring the local kids, only have my crap Martin jewel 24/7 fog machine left that has the usual blocked heater, would love to know where to get another heater from.
From a Martin dealer if they still stock them. But it may be cheaper to get a new machine.
You can also try to boil the o-ring in clean water and in most cases it'll return to its original dimensions. I use that trick for o-rings that touch fuel in automotive applications. Just don't let it touch the bottom of the pot or it may melt to it.
I'll have to give that a go.
Thank you again for this vid clive. I run a fj set in my garage every halloween and i got a fogger last year. Last night it wasnt having it but thanks to your vid, you saved my ass and it is working perfectly now. Happy Halloween!
If you wire the red and black wires directly to 110v, on a working pump, will the pump vibrate rather obviously?
The pump often has a diode built in or inline with the cable. So it will run if it's designed for 110V.
This is a fantastic video, thanks for making it! I use fog and haze regularly- some people insist that you should clean your machine after every use. I'm pretty sure this is probably the best way to get the best results for the longest amount of time. But do you think it's actually neccessary? If you use your machine for a few hours and it just sits there until next halloween, that's one thing, but if a machine ise used say, every 2-3 weeks, or every 1-2 days, or once a month- do you think it's necessarily different?
I'm sure there are all sorts of variables- which machine, what is the chemical composition of the haze/fog fluid you use, how long was it used, what temp was the machine running at etc etc, but in general, for someone who uses it regularly, do you think it makes a difference?
Maybe a simpler way to ask is, how long does it take (on average, for most types of fluid), for the remnants of the fluid to cake up and cause the system to become clogged? Which is simplistic, because there are any number of other things that can happen besides the pump being clogged because of the fluid residue. But aside from the physics, electronics and engineering of it all!
Do you happen to have a link for the o-rings that you've used? Is there a range of types and sizes, or 1-2 that are most common?
Thanks!
I wouldn't clean it after every use. Just after a reasonable length of usage. The purity of the liquid is what usually determines the amount of residue in the heater.
@@bigclivedotcom Thanks!
The vapor juice in fog machines is propylene glycol, which is the same chemical in liquid cough and cold syrups, and is totally safe to vape, breathe in, and consume.
A few different glycols are used including triethylene glycol and the rather shady sounding butylene glycol. In some haze machines a glycerol fluid is used.
What if it's the motor that isn't working? Cuz i was allowed to take home the fog machine from work because it wasn't being used and it heats up but the motor won't work and there's no sound coming from it
When servicing hot pressure washers, one must descale the heating coil, which is a coiled steel tube, forming a drum shape into which diesel is sprayed ignited and air forced in with a fan. It gets very scaled quite quickly - a bit like a monster kettle, but angrier. We use hydrochloric acid for this task and it is a pretty scary process, as you are basically dealing with over 100°C steam/water at around about 2500 PSI and so you can imagine what happens when we pour in HCL to this mix! By comparison, a small bit of vinegar in a small copper pipe, well...
Really helpful video. My pump is broken but has a earth on it but this doesn’t. Do I need to replace it with an earthed pump or is this fine
If it's in a grounded metal case or connected by metal tubing to something that is grounded then it should be OK.
Hi
Since a week I work to bring steamer cleaner back to life.
All you said was mega helpfull ,expecially the O-ring which cause pump disfunction.
Also you said it's difficult to find replacement.
I think I have found solution how to safe it by making it functional.
If you want to know we can talk.
Regards
Miro
My original pump had a third wire for a ground tab. The new pump I ordered looks like the one you have with no ground tab. I hooked it up without it and it works but would you know if this is needed?
Hmmm vinegar steam... Does that kill weeds? This is a terrible idea where I live though, thinking of the neighbors and their outdoor pets. I do actually have a fog machine completely clogged and full of fluid, just as it was when I found it on the street 10 years ago. Maybe it's rubber is totally wrecked but if it's fixable maybe a long pipe on the output could be used to condense and control the steam.
if you push water through it can it generate a voltage? instead of using electricity to circulate water. like turning a motor 🤔🤷♂️
interesting idea..LOL..maybe has possibility as a flow detector/meter
Heh, no, pushing water through it will not create vibration of the core, and even if it did, the core is not permanently magnetized enough to create any significant voltage in the stator winding.
could get some electricity from my tap 🤔😯
@@DonaldSleightholme or maybe the downpipe of the roof guttering...its been pissing down in south east London
water generators exist, they're often used to charge and run the hands free commercial faucets and flush valve setups. the touch free "hand wash" stations in commercial kitchens and bathrooms sometimes have them. they're a water wheel that spins a an actual generator.
The pump on my machine doesn't whir or vibrate. Is this because a) the pump is toast b)there is some kind of cutout circut on the board? c) does it stop making noise when it is thoroughly clogged? If A, what reading should I get across the leads if the motor is toast. I can hotwire it directly to 120v and expect it to whir up? Thanks (fascinated with things electronical)....
They clog up very easily, particularly when stored for a while. If you take it apart carefully you may be able to unclog it. The solenoid piston should move freely in the cylinder.