Here's Why You're Using Your Exposure Meter ALL WRONG
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
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What I love about this video is ultimately it's saying - take the shot you want. I think some of us get all pent up 'worrying' that the exposure is out from what the camera says it should be, even though a lot of time, when you review your 'perfect exposure' shots, they can be a bit meh, because the camera is trying to average out everything. It's OK to blow out your highlights or crush your shadows if you're using that for creative purposes - nobody is going to tell you off, and if they do, let's see what they've got!
One thing I love in my OM-1 is live blinkies in the EVF - for both highlights and shadows. I find that more useful (especially when used in conjunction with a histogram) than the exposure meter to be honest. Seeing what'll be gone before you even press the shutter is very useful I find. Is that an option on Fujis?
I get lots more wrong, so it’s in good company on my camera.
Btw, totally agree. Great tip.
Thanks! I get lots wrong too, and there's always someone in the comments section to tell me so hahaha
OK, so I appreciate the *constructive* criticism from those of you who are constructive. I should have said that underexposing preserves the information in the lights, but I said in the darks. I get that. BUT, I still will contend that you should all try this method before telling me I don't know anything LOL. I do this all the time - my images look great and are not noisy. SO, I was gonna delete this but I put it back up because I rather just the viewers decide.
Love this series every time, Pete! Wonder what the next episode will be like though. Can't wait to see! It would be great if you could check your inbox by the way. We've sent you one!🤗
Thanks! What did you email me about? Perhaps it went to junk
@@PeteCocoPhoto Hi Pete,
Thanks for your reply! I sent you an email about a potential collaboration opportunity that I think could be a great fit for your channel. If it didn’t reach your inbox, it might have ended up in your junk folder-sorry about that! If you’re interested, I’d be happy to resend it or provide more details here.
Looking forward to hearing from you!
There is a highlight metering on the Ricoh GRs, working great for many many situations, that I would love to have in my Fujis. It is somehow very related with your first advice on underexposing, but automatic. I love it. Great video, as always.
Thank you! I haven't tried a Ricoh yet but it's on my list.
I often forget and let the camera control the exposure, particularly when doing street photography in conditions where I’m moving in and out of very bright areas. High key images are not my style but is it easy to get the look you want in post by upping the exposure slider? I’ve tried to do the opposite and create high contrast images with deep blacks and I’ve never found a way of doing it. Any tips (apart from getting the image underexposed in the first place!)?
Gotta experiment a bit. I will underexpose a bit more than I overexpose only because it’s easier to preserve more detail that way. But a lot of it is experimentation
Awesome to get confirmation that the exposure meter is a guide, not a rule. Shooting a lot of cooking videos lately, the exposure meter is all over the place and cannot be trusted!
Don’t be afraid to move that sucker!
I use the meter to find the base exposure then usually shoot 1-2 stops under. That being said, it’s a creative thing and might not be the right things to do all the time.
Right. This is just another technique to have in your tool belt. Not something I do all the time.
I sure do miss having the histogram since they shut down C1 Express. I've been using the Fuji raw converter only since that happened. Hope you are doing well and staying cool today!
You too Charlie! Yeah I get that, and I'm not thrilled with having to pay so much for C1 but I use it every day with my clients.
@@PeteCocoPhoto Yup, that is the difference. It's fine for a professional because you're paying for it through work. Why couldn't they have kept Express but just charged a little for it instead of being free. Give it a price hobbyists can afford.
@@charliejg because all these big companies are greedy. Sucks but it’s true
ahhhh you can do it in jpeg as well not everything has to be done in raw!!!
You sacrifice a TON of dynamic range if you do it this way
I enjoy your videos. This was a good one, except I was expecting a more technical (do this, do that) approach. Couple of things to be sussed out which undergird your comments and make you a pro and the rest of us not: 1) thinking in b+w; 2) starting with an idea or target in mind for the image well before the shutter clicks. Thanks for the reminder.
Thanks David! I appreciate this feedback. It’s very helpful to me going forward!
I would like to see studio lighting tips.
I'm sure there would be a few episodes worth 😊
@@etienneswart8700 1 key light, 1 fill light. arrange in a way until you find angles that are pleasing. adjust energy output of each lightsource until you're satisfied.
done.
@@acidtears yes and no. Sometimes I use 1 large umbrella. Sometimes like 3 to 5 lights. Just depends on what I’m going for
Hi Pete,
Thanks for your interesting work on RUclips. It was very helpful for me when I bought my X-H2 and X-H2s, especially with your tricks.
But this time, I disagree with you because you give wrong information:
You can’t say that sensors have more information in blacks than in whites! It’s the complete opposite!
That is why your method is wrong and give blacks without information, or noisy, with artefacts.
There is no problem with your artistic choice to underexpose your photos, but you can have it easily with details in blacks, and not noisy.
Please, compare just once your method with these one and tell me:
Take a measure of the brightest zone of your scene.
Overexpose this measurement (yes! Overexpose) your set up with 1.33 stop . Choose speed or aperture, or both, depending of your artistic choice.
Open it in Lightroom or Capture One IN LINEARE MODE (the best is to create the Linear Profile of your XT5), and you will discover how your photo has rich details, at first in whites, but in blacks to, without noise and artefacts.
Now, you can easily underexpose your photo if it is your artistic choice (I like it to…) with wonderful whites and blacks.
Thanks David. Appreciate this! Yes, I meant to say that it preserves the information in the lights when you avoid blowing out the highlights.
No histogram??
I started my career in low-light event photography. I quickly learned: histograms are useless when there is little to no light.
I learned to trust my eyes instead. It's good to have a scientific reference value. But for me photography will always be more a "feel" thing than a hard science.
I generally don't use the histogram when doing street/concert photography. I eyeball it.
Actually, I use my meter correctly. So, what you mean is: "Here's why some photographers are using their exposure meters the wrong way."
aCtuAllY...
Ok lol
@@feetfirstspeks lemme see some of the amazing photos you’ve created using your meter correctly
@@PeteCocoPhoto Hello Pete. I tried to share relevant info, but it disappeared. I'll try again: My site isn't updated currently. imagetrek uk