Nice work! I'd have countersunk the mid and woofer as well, to get a flush front, doubling up the front board if neccessary to have enough thickness to set the screws. Also, I don't like the protruded cable terminals on the back too much. None of that has and influence on sound, so it may just be my OCD talking.
Excellent work!👏 i only have a slight criticism of the lacquer painting technique, use the spraygun at a fixed distance as you spray (robotic movement) ,there is no need to make a circular movement that changes the distance and thus the amount of material coming out so the result will be much better😁
I've loved watching your builds. I've been planning on building a higher-quality copy of the Wharfedale Lintons. 3-way with 8" woofer, 5" mid, tweeter. Using hardwood box or hardwood plywood for box. May use MDF for front panel. I'm considering using Datyton Reference series 8 ohm for woofer and mid. Also might use Dayton crossovers. Unsure about which tweeter. I would appreciate any feedback, and maybe this is a speaker you might consider building?
The Wharfedales would be a great speaker to take inspiration from. Dayton Reference Series are great value, and great sounding drivers. Using hardwood or mdf is really up to you. Some hardwoods can be great for speaker cabinets, other not. Just do your research. The most important thing you mentioned is the crossover. A pre-built xover will take the nice drivers, and turn them into something you don't want. If you have the budget, a measurement microphone is would be most useful. If you can't afford one, maybe you have a friend with one. Crossover design relies on having measurements from a microphone, taken from the speakers in the box they will live in. Without this, it is a total guess what will happen when using a pre-built xover. I hope this helps. Please ask more questions if you have them.
I'm a little surprised that these studio monitors are so approachable. Most people who go out of their way to build a set of studio monitors will also use 3-way integrated amplifiers with DSP correction for absolute in-room linear neutral response. The SEAS KingRo4y mk.III DIY studio monitors call for this kind of setup, which makes them quite expensive to build. Seems like the sound quality is worth it, based on the reviews I've seen, but it's still a steep price increase.
@@DIYhyfy DSP correction combined with durable drivers, powerful amplification, and a suitably rigid cabinet are really the only effective means to cheat the rule that there is no replacement for displacement. Combine all of those things and you can get much more powerful bass response out of a speaker than it should really be capable of through conventional means. But the kind of design you used is far better for the average person considering a set of DIY studio monitors, since the barrier to entry is significantly reduced by the conventional speaker design. Fairly simple crossover, standard amplifier requirements, and the drivers aren't even unreasonably priced. I think the only thing I'd bother investigating an alternative to is to find some appropriately sized flared ports to reduce chuffing at high excursion on the woofer. Any other changes would either increase the cost too dramatically or would inherently modify the sound signature (like using a mid-woofer and tweeter with better extension so you can use a dedicated subwoofer driver for the woofer instead of a conventional woofer that just happens to have acceptable low end extension). This is to say that your design looks very good for the intended purpose and audience, so there's little room to improve it without detriment to one or more aspects.
Please note that schedule 40 2" PVC pipe has an ID of 2.067 which results in an area of 3.36 in sq, which is larger than using a nominal 2" ID calculation. Always shoot for accuracy
It looks like one woofer speaker suffered a damaged surround in transit. It will have higher harmonic distortion during operation than an unspoiled unit due to asymmetric Kms, and may even present uneven compliance from side to side, resulting in coil rocking if the woofers ever really get hopping. You'll want to replace this unit to get consistent performance and the best longevity from the speaker.
I would definitely agree for the long term. I did also do a listening test in free air to listen for coil rub. Ironically it was the protective cover that slipped sideways and was pressed against the surround for some time.
10 seconds into the video and all i think is: fine looking speakers, but those first reflections and resoances from the table will destroy all your efforts.
A from the ground up speaker build video. Great job!!!!
awesome build!! amazing work i subscribed
Nice work!
I'd have countersunk the mid and woofer as well, to get a flush front, doubling up the front board if neccessary to have enough thickness to set the screws.
Also, I don't like the protruded cable terminals on the back too much.
None of that has and influence on sound, so it may just be my OCD talking.
Liked the video. Thanks for producing regular speaker content!
More to come!
Great video as always! You killed it!
Excellent work!👏
i only have a slight criticism of the lacquer painting technique,
use the spraygun at a fixed distance as you spray (robotic movement) ,there is no need to make a circular movement that changes the distance and thus the amount of material coming out so the result will be much better😁
I've loved watching your builds. I've been planning on building a higher-quality copy of the Wharfedale Lintons. 3-way with 8" woofer, 5" mid, tweeter. Using hardwood box or hardwood plywood for box. May use MDF for front panel. I'm considering using Datyton Reference series 8 ohm for woofer and mid. Also might use Dayton crossovers. Unsure about which tweeter. I would appreciate any feedback, and maybe this is a speaker you might consider building?
The Wharfedales would be a great speaker to take inspiration from.
Dayton Reference Series are great value, and great sounding drivers.
Using hardwood or mdf is really up to you. Some hardwoods can be great for speaker cabinets, other not. Just do your research.
The most important thing you mentioned is the crossover. A pre-built xover will take the nice drivers, and turn them into something you don't want.
If you have the budget, a measurement microphone is would be most useful.
If you can't afford one, maybe you have a friend with one. Crossover design relies on having measurements from a microphone, taken from the speakers in the box they will live in. Without this, it is a total guess what will happen when using a pre-built xover.
I hope this helps. Please ask more questions if you have them.
@@DIYhyfy I appreciate the feedback & wisdom. How much does the measurement mic cost?
I'm a little surprised that these studio monitors are so approachable. Most people who go out of their way to build a set of studio monitors will also use 3-way integrated amplifiers with DSP correction for absolute in-room linear neutral response. The SEAS KingRo4y mk.III DIY studio monitors call for this kind of setup, which makes them quite expensive to build. Seems like the sound quality is worth it, based on the reviews I've seen, but it's still a steep price increase.
There are definitely ways to improve with DSP. It really is hard to beat when it comes to low end extension, and linearity.
@@DIYhyfy DSP correction combined with durable drivers, powerful amplification, and a suitably rigid cabinet are really the only effective means to cheat the rule that there is no replacement for displacement. Combine all of those things and you can get much more powerful bass response out of a speaker than it should really be capable of through conventional means.
But the kind of design you used is far better for the average person considering a set of DIY studio monitors, since the barrier to entry is significantly reduced by the conventional speaker design. Fairly simple crossover, standard amplifier requirements, and the drivers aren't even unreasonably priced. I think the only thing I'd bother investigating an alternative to is to find some appropriately sized flared ports to reduce chuffing at high excursion on the woofer. Any other changes would either increase the cost too dramatically or would inherently modify the sound signature (like using a mid-woofer and tweeter with better extension so you can use a dedicated subwoofer driver for the woofer instead of a conventional woofer that just happens to have acceptable low end extension). This is to say that your design looks very good for the intended purpose and audience, so there's little room to improve it without detriment to one or more aspects.
Please note that schedule 40 2" PVC pipe has an ID of 2.067 which results in an area of 3.36 in sq, which is larger than using a nominal 2" ID calculation. Always shoot for accuracy
Forgot to say, great project!
It looks like one woofer speaker suffered a damaged surround in transit. It will have higher harmonic distortion during operation than an unspoiled unit due to asymmetric Kms, and may even present uneven compliance from side to side, resulting in coil rocking if the woofers ever really get hopping. You'll want to replace this unit to get consistent performance and the best longevity from the speaker.
I would definitely agree for the long term. I did also do a listening test in free air to listen for coil rub.
Ironically it was the protective cover that slipped sideways and was pressed against the surround for some time.
10 seconds into the video and all i think is: fine looking speakers, but those first reflections and resoances from the table will destroy all your efforts.
Yes, they certainly would. I mentioned later in the video that they wouldn't be well suited for use directly on a desk against a wall etc.
@@DIYhyfy my bad, shouldve watched until the end before commenting, great work