If there is no voltage during the integrated thermopile test, then it's best to do an isolated test as well. This is explained in further detail in this troubleshooting video: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.htmlsi=qP0zf7JfOen5BfLN&t=254
Thank you for sharing that Roger! We've put a lot of effort into creating the graphics and details that help make it easy to follow. We're glad that you found it helpful!
very clear & informative video I really appreciate your videos I've learnt a lot from them which helps me a lot as a plumbers apprentice keep them coming & thank you for making them
Thank you Mike, its great to hear that these videos are useful! If you want to support these videos then consider sharing these to anyone that you might know as any extra viewership early on can help out! ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html
Thank you Paul! We try to keep all of our videos informative and to the point with clear graphics and animations. We've got many more on our channel that you might be interested in. Cheers!
You're welcome Chris, we're glad you found the video and the instructions helpful! We try to make all our videos with this same attention to detail and we've got many more on our channel. Cheers!
You're welcome, we're happy to hear that the video helped you out! Glad that you like pacing and the style of the videos. Mostly we want to be as clear as possible and not rush through anything important.
Thank you Joe, we're glad that you found the video helpful! We aim to make all our videos this same quality with an easy to follow format and animations to help explain how it works. We have additional furnace videos on our channel that you might find helpful as well: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBzorzNrARLKALj9fW7HzHMh Cheers!
Getting about 540mv max after severaall minutes. Under specs but above 400mv you mentioned. Will try cleaning if I can't get a replacement today. Also will try to find a therm cutoff switch and replace even though continuity is good since it keeps popping the button. Will see if every thing is clean and able to breath wihile I have it apart. State select model GS640YBRS 300. Thanks for all the great video's.
You're welcome Joe, we're happy to hear that you're finding our videos helpful! If the thermal cutoff switch keeps tripping then its worth checking to see that there's good airflow. You can learn more here in this part of this video ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
My brand new thermo pile only makes .450v with no load, box says its a .750v pile ( pilot only) when thermostat commands heat and valve opens it drops to .200v but over 15 minutes the volts drop to below.100 and valve shuts off, what should the volt drop be when valve opens .
Hello, I was hoping I might be able to get a question answered. The spark igniter wire on my old assembly has a sticker on it that says "Warning Use Same Part Number", but the replacement assembly I ordered (which on its listing did have my water heater's model number showing on the compatibility list) doesn't have a sticker with its part number or any mention of its part number on the instructions or listing. The two wires look almost the same, aside from the black shielding on the plug end is a bit thicker. But the plug hole diameter looks the same. I'm just trying to determine if I am safe to proceed with the install. Thanks for the helpful video!
Thanks for watching we're glad you found it helpful. If the assembly is listed as a compatible replacement and if it has the same connectors and mounts the same, then you should be good to go. There can be some variation in wiring appearance but it should not effect performance.
Thanks for watching. These fittings do not need telfon tape or pipe joint compound. These are tapered connections and will naturally make a good seal. As well telfon tape can interfere with the thermopile's voltage.
Great presentation. Our unit is showing low voltage thermopile code. Our unit is about 16 years old. In looking inside the fire chamber I could not see the fresh air source from the heaters bottom !?
Thank you, we're glad that you found it helpful! The bottom has a flame arrestor screen that can get clogged with dust and debris. You can clean it from the bottom using a brush: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html This sort of brush can make it easy to clean and is also useful for refrigerators: www.amresupply.com/part/12026719
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful. Heating up over a gas stove would be an isolated test and would verify if the thermopile can produce voltage. An in-place test will show you if the pilot flame is heating up the thermopile enough to produce the right voltage.
Thanks for watching. In that case either there's an issue with the control valve, or the gas supply. If the control valve is stuck closed then pushing the bypass won't even let gas flow to the pilot.
Hi Vance. I have a question. The pilot light remains lit however the burner doesn’t kick in. Would you recommend doing the same thing for the thermopile and the switch.? Pls reply. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. If the pilot light remains lit, then the thermocouple is not the problem. In this case it could low gas pressure or an issue with the gas control valve.
Hello, I have whirlpool water heater N50T61 403 and it does not light up. where do I buy the thermopile for whirlpool water heater? is the heater model important when getting a thermopile?
Thanks for watching. For thermopiles you'll have to match based on the same sort of connections to make sure that you can still connect to the gas valve and thermal cutoff switch. It's hard to know what all parts are available for different models as this differs between the USA and Canada.
This was very informative. My control panel flashes RED twice indicating (Thermopile Low Voltage) My pilot light goes out and I have to ignite it manually. It's a Rheem Performance Plus unit from HD. How often does this part have to be replaced? Thx for sharing
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful! If the pilot keeps on going out it could be an issue with the airflow: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html It could also be an issue with the pilot orifice. If the pilot orifice is clogged then the flame will not burn as strong and the thermopile voltage will be lower than normal. Those are some other causes but the thermopile is something that can just fail as well. If you're getting low voltage during the voltage test then replace the thermopile. Its not uncommon to replace a thermocouple or thermopile once per the lifespan of the water heater. In other cases the thermocouple or thermopile can last the whole lifespan.
I had to change the whole gas assembly on my heater,i pulled the burner out to clean that whole area,the top of the burner,the big round area is kinda redish,would it hurt to maybe scrub it a bit with some scotch brite? Didn't have any problems with the pilot lighting, my problem was something else altogether so i assume the thermopile is ok,its not carbonized or nothing , another issue i had and i was just curious, when i pulled the burner assembly out, that big black rubber gasket came off in some places, could i glue it back on with some red super high temperature rtv i got for my furnace a few years ago? i mean glue it back to the sheetmetal of the burner assembly, not to the tank itself, thank you for your time and input.
Thanks for watching! Yes the burner can be cleaned, best to scrub it without any hash chemicals though. As well the gasket can be sealed with high temperature RTV. Mostly its just important to make sure it doesn't have gaps when the cover is closed.
Excellent video!! Problem, definitely need to replace my thermopile but the burner assembly seems to be stuck. Screws out, and I cannot get it to budge to get it out. Any ideas?
Thank you Taras, we're glad you found the video helpful! You might have a gasket that is fused to the burner assembly and cover. You could try taking a putty knife along the edge to see if that helps separate the assembly.
@@tarasmigs9114 We're happy to help. When you install the burner assembly, make sure the gasket is aligned, has a tight fit and is sealed against the body of the tank. For these water heaters to function properly, the combustion chamber must have a good seal.
Voltage test passed 690mV, thermal cutoff switch passed continuity test, I’m seeing that the pilot stays lit but the burner does not. What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for watching. If the voltage is good, the thermal cutoff switch is good, and the pilot stays lit, but the burner doesn't turn on, then it could be a faulty control valve.
Fantastic video! Thank you! However, I am having trouble finding a thermopile. I have a whirlpool tank and their customer service is worthless, unfortunately. I found a couple that look the same, but how do I know they are compatible? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching, we're just glad to help! Not all model breakdowns are available for all water heaters, but if you could find one for your model then you might be able to get the exact part number for your thermopile. You could do a search based on the part number of your gas valve. For example Honeywell gas control valves are quite common. The thermopile that you'll need will have to have the right connectors to attach to the control valve. Other than the connections, most thermopiles generate the same voltage so there isn't much variation there. Hope this helps!
I checked my thermopile with wires disconnected, like you did, from valve and get 750 mV, but when connected, voltage climbs very very slow. Would that be normal or would it be a weak thermopile?
Thanks for watching. When lighting the pilot it can often take the thermocouple 90 seconds to warm up to a point that will keep the pilot flame lit after you release the bypass button. If its taking longer than a few minutes then its a sign that the thermopile is faulty, the pilot flame is weak or the thermopile is not positioned well in the pilot flame.
Hi quick question. Should the igniter spark be jumping to thermopile or to the pilot? I've replaced my thermopile but the problem I'm running into now is that even though I see the igniter spark, the flame doesn't catch. I ended up using a match to light the pilot. By the way, thanks for the video.
Hi Aron, thats a good question and thanks for watching. The spark will jump to what ever is closest but since gas is mixing with the air it should ignite regardless of where the spark jumps to. Sometimes it does take several sparks to ignite it but after a enough attempts its possible to oversaturate the gas in the chamber preventing the gas from igniting until you air it out for a few minutes.
@@AmreSupply thank you so much for reply. Normally how far should it be from the pilot? Is it possible that the spark is too weak and that is why it won't ignite?
@@aroniphraimov3915 The spark is usually quite close to the pilot as it completes the circuit though the metal of the pilot housing. Yes spark ignitor that is failing, shorted to ground or is just weak can prevent the gas from igniting. The ignition module can be replaced if needed.
Thanks for watching. If the pilot light keeps on going out and only stays lit for 30 minutes then its likely an issue with the airflow. Make sure that the vent has a clear path. Any restriction can create back drafting. You can see test here: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html As well make sure that there is a good supply of air into the room or the water heater. There should be space below the door, to let air in or a vent to refill the air.
Ugh. Instead of a "component block" I have a round rubber washer with 3 holes. I can't see how to remove the wires from the washer without cutting the washer, then reassembling it with JB Weld or something.
Thanks for watching. If you have to cut the rubber washer, make a single cut if possible. When installing, if it is a tight enough fit, there should be enough pressure to push the rubber down to seal the cut portion of it. If it seems like there is a gap where air can flow out then you might need to think of some sort of sealant.
Thanks for watching. You'll want to pull the model number off the Gas control valve. Then look for a thermopile that is compatible with that brand or series of models. Double check that the new thermopile has the same connections as the old one. The millivolt ratings between thermopiles are generally the same so it just needs the right connections.
Thanks for watching! This water heater is place up in our filming studio and is not connected to gas, so the pipe just runs up above the frame and is left open. When filming we sometimes build sets rather than filming on location as it gives us enough room for equipment and lighting. This helps us get good looking close up shots of the repair.
@@InCountry6970 Thanks, we're glad you found the video helpful! We have many more videos on our channel as well, we try to make them all as informative as this video with 3d graphics / animations. Cheers!
i have replace de control gas valve and the pilot kit and it keeps telling me that the thermopile has low voltage i replace it again and it keeps telling me the same thing any tips after a while heaters off
Thanks for watching. If the pilot won't stay lit then it could be an issue with the airflow. ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html As well it could be a dirty pilot orifice which would result in a weak flame. The pilot orifice can often be unscrewed and cleaned with a pin or a wire.
Awesome presentation in trouble shooting water heaters. I followed your steps in diagnosing the issue. This is the result: Thermopile gives more than 760 mV DC Thermal Cut Off Switch shows continuity (0.1 ohm) I will describe my problem, any input is appreciated. This water heater is manufactured on Feb 2016 by Whirlpool. I brought this house on Sep 2017. On Jul 2018 is when water heater turned off (pilot turned off) and I restarted it. After few days it went off again. I called service company and they cleaned the thermopile and started it back. It run for few days and it went off again. Service company came and replaced the electronic gas valve (Honeywell). I was not convinced they root caused the issue. After few days it went off again and I restarted it. By this time it was fall (September) and it continued to run till 2019 July. All through the summer, it went off 4-5 times and I restarted it each time (I was less concerned as it didn't give any problem during fall, winter or spring) Come the summer 2020, it started showing same issue. Already I restarted 4 times. On Jun 26th, I have followed your steps and cleaned the thermopile and restarted it. It run for 4-5 hours and when pilot went off, I was near by (just went to check). Water heater main burner was running and then it went off straight away. I tried restarting pilot and it did not start. But one thing I observed, bottom body of water heater is hot, pilot tube is hot. I shutdown the gas valve and didn't tried restarting it. Today, 27 June, I followed the steps and measured. Thermopile and TCO is good as per the test results. I have a gut feeling that, this issue only happens during Summer (water heater is placed in basement without any heating) and the body appeared to be hot when it turned off yesterday, it is most likely because of over heating. Can you please provide some inputs on what might be causing water heater to over heat ? Or is it some other problem ? Appreciate any inputs.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful. One thing that can cause the pilot to go out and the water heater to shut off is poor airflow. Its best to clean any dust off the bottom of the tank, on the flame arrestor screen and to make sure that the flue vent is not obstructed. Also you should have a source of air, or a space on the door leading into the room that you have the water heater. Anything that affects the airflow can create issues. You can see a few of these checks in this video we created at this linked time: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching, we're glad you found it helpful! You can see all the water heater parts that AMRE carries here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Hot-Water-Tank-Parts-647736
Hi Rachael, thank you for watching. You'll want to check the thermal cutoff switch as well as making sure that the airflow is good. You can see more in this video: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
Hired a plumber... dude reset my switch and said nothing is wrong... obviously something is wrong as the heater isn't predictable and pops the switch 3 times now. I'll run the following tests soon. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. You are right that if a thermal cutoff or a limit switch repetitively is being tripped under normal conditions, then it could be an issue with the airflow. There are a few things you can check which is outlined in this video: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.htmlsi=xrg_U4C86I2C5Zqq&t=356
@@AmreSupply thanks. I've cleaned the crap out of the unit. Originally it was dusted up ... But 2 months later and it triggered again. Then a month later the same thing.
@@kaoticmind09Any restriction of the exhaust airflow can also create these sorts of issues so if possible, check the outside vent cover for any debris, ice or anything else that might block the exhaust.
Thanks for watching. You likely came from the thermocouple video for conventional water heaters. Thermocouples produce less power than thermopiles. Electronic valves use thermopiles and require more voltage.
Thanks for watching. For an open circuit test a thermocouple voltage of 550mV will still be fine. If you're pilot isn't staying lit then it's best to check the thermal cutoff switch as shown in this video ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
Thanks for watching. If there is less voltage (in an open test) after installing a new thermopile then it's possible that the pilot flame is weak or the flame is not hitting the right spot in the thermopile. It's worth removing the burner assembly, giving it a cleaning and checking the position of the thermopile.
Let's not forget that there's a battery inside that compartment it is a 9-volt battery and that is why sometimes it does not stay lit or shows low voltage thermopile
Thanks for watching. The Honeywell control valve which is shown in this video does not use a battery but instead is powered by the thermopile. A battery is not used to keep the pilot flame lit, it would actually negate the safety of the system. The thermopile generates power, if there is no flame, or if the thermopile is not heated by the pilot, then there is not enough power to keep the gas valve open. This prevents gas from being released when there is no flame present to burn it. If you have a water heater that uses a battery, what is the model number of the control valve? It's always good to see these sorts of variations as it is not a common occurrence.
I can appreciate the narrator speaking slowly and clearly while guiding from one step to another, but, I found this same cadence jarring when he was simply speaking directly to the camera. Perhaps I expected him to have a fro.
This video is good but flawed. He's setting people up to chase their tail if they have a bad thermal cutoff. You don't want to test the red wire at the valve control unit at first. You initially want to test it on the input of the thermal cutoff switch. Then you can test it at the valve control panel. If you have good voltage at the input of the thermal cutoff but not at the actual device, your thermal cut-off is the problem. That's a very simple thing to explain but was completely left out.
Thank you for watching and for sharing your feedback. This video was specific to the thermopile as many are searching for how to test, access and replace the thermopile. We did a full troubleshooting video "pilot won't stay lit" which goes into more detail and addresses the point you brought up. That video is clearly linked in the description of this video. ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
@@AmreSupply LOL I guess you only give advice. You don't take it? My way of testing is the correct way of testing. Your way is a way of misdiagnosing the problem. After watching your video if someone got no voltage they would just replace the thermopile even if the thermal cutoff switch was the problem. Or you could teach them the proper way of isolating it before testing it. Hmmmm food for thought.
@@aznative_ Both the integrated testing and the isolated testing are already explained in the full troubleshooting video which is highlighted and clearly linked in the description for others to find: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.htmlsi=qP0zf7JfOen5BfLN&t=254 "The voltage should start to rise over the next few minutes as the thermopile heats up. In an open circuit test, a healthy thermopile should read between 650 and 850 millivolts. If the multimeter reads under 400 millivolts then the pilot might have trouble staying lit. Over time a buildup of carbon will act as an insulator and will reduce the voltage. One solution is to clean it, but in a lot of cases it's best to install a new thermopile. Now if the thermopile is healthy, then it could be a problem with the thermal cutoff switch. You can learn more in the video linked below." In this case a bad cutoff switch will not produce low voltage, so there is no misdiagnosing as we directly mention the cutoff switch as a potential source of the problem. I can see how additional explanation would clarify it or including all testing in this particular video would be helpful but as it is already published we cannot simply make any edits to the video itself without deleting, re-uploading and losing all views likes and interactions. There is now an extra pinned comment clarifying and directing people to the full troubleshooting video with both the isolated and integrated testing.
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If there is no voltage during the integrated thermopile test, then it's best to do an isolated test as well. This is explained in further detail in this troubleshooting video: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.htmlsi=qP0zf7JfOen5BfLN&t=254
My husband and I are very thankful for your easy-to-follow tutorial, we were able to safely replace the thermopile ourselves. Once again, thank you!
You're welcome, we're just glad that the video helped you get your water heater running again!
This is the first time I am commenting on RUclips. But this is the best hot water heater trouble shooting vid I have seen. Thanks
Thank you for sharing that Roger! We've put a lot of effort into creating the graphics and details that help make it easy to follow. We're glad that you found it helpful!
very clear & informative video I really appreciate your videos I've learnt a lot from them which helps me a lot as a plumbers apprentice keep them coming & thank you for making them
Thank you Mike, its great to hear that these videos are useful! If you want to support these videos then consider sharing these to anyone that you might know as any extra viewership early on can help out! ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html
Excellent tutorial. Got straight to the point, no excess talking, clear and concise.
Thank you Paul! We try to keep all of our videos informative and to the point with clear graphics and animations. We've got many more on our channel that you might be interested in. Cheers!
Thank You for this presentation!
By far the most clear and safe explanation step by step beginning to end. You guys rock!
You're welcome Chris, we're glad you found the video and the instructions helpful! We try to make all our videos with this same attention to detail and we've got many more on our channel. Cheers!
Thank you for this. Saved me $2200 the plumber guy quoted me. Love your style of slowly explaining each step.
You're welcome, we're happy to hear that the video helped you out! Glad that you like pacing and the style of the videos. Mostly we want to be as clear as possible and not rush through anything important.
The way you explain it was very clear. Very informative, very well explain.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
This is one of the best videos explaining the subject!! Great Job!!
Thank you Joe, we're glad that you found the video helpful! We aim to make all our videos this same quality with an easy to follow format and animations to help explain how it works. We have additional furnace videos on our channel that you might find helpful as well: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBzorzNrARLKALj9fW7HzHMh Cheers!
Getting about 540mv max after severaall minutes. Under specs but above 400mv you mentioned. Will try cleaning if I can't get a replacement today. Also will try to find a therm cutoff switch and replace even though continuity is good since it keeps popping the button. Will see if every thing is clean and able to breath wihile I have it apart. State select model GS640YBRS 300. Thanks for all the great video's.
You're welcome Joe, we're happy to hear that you're finding our videos helpful! If the thermal cutoff switch keeps tripping then its worth checking to see that there's good airflow. You can learn more here in this part of this video ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
My brand new thermo pile only makes .450v with no load, box says its a .750v pile ( pilot only) when thermostat commands heat and valve opens it drops to .200v but over 15 minutes the volts drop to below.100 and valve shuts off, what should the volt drop be when valve opens .
Good video,
I’m going to be doing this today hope it takes care of the problem, Thanks for posting
You're welcome, we're just happy to share some good information!
5 years later and this is still helpful
Glad to hear it!
Awesome video. Love the details. Thanks for sharing!!!!
You're welcome, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Just saved me an expensive call over a holiday weekend!!
We're glad to hear that the video helped you out!
Thanks much appreciated , well it looks like i know what ill be doing this weekend. Peace from Califas
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Hello, I was hoping I might be able to get a question answered. The spark igniter wire on my old assembly has a sticker on it that says "Warning Use Same Part Number", but the replacement assembly I ordered (which on its listing did have my water heater's model number showing on the compatibility list) doesn't have a sticker with its part number or any mention of its part number on the instructions or listing. The two wires look almost the same, aside from the black shielding on the plug end is a bit thicker. But the plug hole diameter looks the same. I'm just trying to determine if I am safe to proceed with the install. Thanks for the helpful video!
Thanks for watching we're glad you found it helpful. If the assembly is listed as a compatible replacement and if it has the same connectors and mounts the same, then you should be good to go. There can be some variation in wiring appearance but it should not effect performance.
Excellent, excellent video! You helped me so much. Thank you!!
You're welcome!! We're just glad that the videos that we put so much work into, are helping people out!
Probably the best out of 5 videos I watched thank you 🫡
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Thank you! I was able to fix my family’s water heater!
You're welcome, we're glad that that the video helped you with the repair!
Excellent work thanks for the clear instructions.
You're welcome, we're glad you found it helpful!
When installing the pilot tube and burner tube back into the control valve. Do you suggest adding teflon tape onto the threads?
Thanks for watching. These fittings do not need telfon tape or pipe joint compound. These are tapered connections and will naturally make a good seal. As well telfon tape can interfere with the thermopile's voltage.
straight to the point! nice video! thank you very much!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Great presentation. Our unit is showing low voltage thermopile code. Our unit is about 16 years old.
In looking inside the fire chamber I could not see the fresh air source from the heaters bottom !?
Thank you, we're glad that you found it helpful!
The bottom has a flame arrestor screen that can get clogged with dust and debris. You can clean it from the bottom using a brush: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
This sort of brush can make it easy to clean and is also useful for refrigerators: www.amresupply.com/part/12026719
Thank this video is very helpful.
1st of all, this is an excellent video,
question, can i test the voltage after cleaning by heating it up over the gas stove burner.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful. Heating up over a gas stove would be an isolated test and would verify if the thermopile can produce voltage. An in-place test will show you if the pilot flame is heating up the thermopile enough to produce the right voltage.
what if the pilot won't even light to test the thermopiles dc voltage?
Thanks for watching. In that case either there's an issue with the control valve, or the gas supply. If the control valve is stuck closed then pushing the bypass won't even let gas flow to the pilot.
Amazing! Very thorough instructions. Thank you!
You're welcome Bernz! We're glad that you found the video and the instructions helpful!
Hi Vance. I have a question. The pilot light remains lit however the burner doesn’t kick in. Would you recommend doing the same thing for the thermopile and the switch.? Pls reply. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. If the pilot light remains lit, then the thermocouple is not the problem. In this case it could low gas pressure or an issue with the gas control valve.
Hello, I have whirlpool water heater N50T61 403 and it does not light up. where do I buy the thermopile for whirlpool water heater? is the heater model important when getting a thermopile?
Thanks for watching. For thermopiles you'll have to match based on the same sort of connections to make sure that you can still connect to the gas valve and thermal cutoff switch. It's hard to know what all parts are available for different models as this differs between the USA and Canada.
Very educational and thorough. Thanks for great explanatory video.
Thank you, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Best video made best well presented instruments thank you
You're welcome! We just try to make each and every video clear and easy to understand!
Excellent video! Was very helpful for me when replacing the thermopile on my A.O. Smith GCV 40 300. Thanks!
You're welcome Andrew! We're glad that the video helped make it a successful repair!
This was very informative.
My control panel flashes RED twice indicating (Thermopile Low Voltage)
My pilot light goes out and I have to ignite it manually. It's a Rheem Performance Plus unit from HD.
How often does this part have to be replaced? Thx for sharing
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful! If the pilot keeps on going out it could be an issue with the airflow: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
It could also be an issue with the pilot orifice. If the pilot orifice is clogged then the flame will not burn as strong and the thermopile voltage will be lower than normal.
Those are some other causes but the thermopile is something that can just fail as well. If you're getting low voltage during the voltage test then replace the thermopile. Its not uncommon to replace a thermocouple or thermopile once per the lifespan of the water heater. In other cases the thermocouple or thermopile can last the whole lifespan.
I had to change the whole gas assembly on my heater,i pulled the burner out to clean that whole area,the top of the burner,the big round area is kinda redish,would it hurt to maybe scrub it a bit with some scotch brite?
Didn't have any problems with the pilot lighting, my problem was something else altogether so i assume the thermopile is ok,its not carbonized or nothing , another issue i had and i was just curious, when i pulled the burner assembly out, that big black rubber gasket came off in some places, could i glue it back on with some red super high temperature rtv i got for my furnace a few years ago? i mean glue it back to the sheetmetal of the burner assembly, not to the tank itself, thank you for your time and input.
Thanks for watching! Yes the burner can be cleaned, best to scrub it without any hash chemicals though.
As well the gasket can be sealed with high temperature RTV. Mostly its just important to make sure it doesn't have gaps when the cover is closed.
@@AmreSupply perfect, thank you much!!
@@dntlss You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
excellent and infomative!
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Beautiful work
Thanks 😊
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Very nicely done video! Thanks.
You're welcome! We're just happy to help!
Excellent video!!
Problem, definitely need to replace my thermopile but the burner assembly seems to be stuck. Screws out, and I cannot get it to budge to get it out. Any ideas?
Thank you Taras, we're glad you found the video helpful! You might have a gasket that is fused to the burner assembly and cover. You could try taking a putty knife along the edge to see if that helps separate the assembly.
@@AmreSupply you were absolutely right, it worked. Thank you so much!!
@@tarasmigs9114 We're happy to help. When you install the burner assembly, make sure the gasket is aligned, has a tight fit and is sealed against the body of the tank. For these water heaters to function properly, the combustion chamber must have a good seal.
Very informative!!! Thank you🙏
You're welcome Jalix, we're happy that you found the video helpful!
Voltage test passed 690mV, thermal cutoff switch passed continuity test, I’m seeing that the pilot stays lit but the burner does not. What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for watching. If the voltage is good, the thermal cutoff switch is good, and the pilot stays lit, but the burner doesn't turn on, then it could be a faulty control valve.
Very clear presentation Video Great Job Thank you!!
You're welcome! We're glad that you found the video helpful!
Thanks. 🙌🙌🙌❤❤
You're welcome!
Fantastic video! Thank you! However, I am having trouble finding a thermopile. I have a whirlpool tank and their customer service is worthless, unfortunately. I found a couple that look the same, but how do I know they are compatible? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching, we're just glad to help! Not all model breakdowns are available for all water heaters, but if you could find one for your model then you might be able to get the exact part number for your thermopile. You could do a search based on the part number of your gas valve. For example Honeywell gas control valves are quite common. The thermopile that you'll need will have to have the right connectors to attach to the control valve. Other than the connections, most thermopiles generate the same voltage so there isn't much variation there. Hope this helps!
I checked my thermopile with wires disconnected, like you did, from valve and get 750 mV, but when connected, voltage climbs very very slow. Would that be normal or would it be a weak thermopile?
Thanks for watching. When lighting the pilot it can often take the thermocouple 90 seconds to warm up to a point that will keep the pilot flame lit after you release the bypass button. If its taking longer than a few minutes then its a sign that the thermopile is faulty, the pilot flame is weak or the thermopile is not positioned well in the pilot flame.
Hi quick question. Should the igniter spark be jumping to thermopile or to the pilot? I've replaced my thermopile but the problem I'm running into now is that even though I see the igniter spark, the flame doesn't catch. I ended up using a match to light the pilot.
By the way, thanks for the video.
Hi Aron, thats a good question and thanks for watching. The spark will jump to what ever is closest but since gas is mixing with the air it should ignite regardless of where the spark jumps to. Sometimes it does take several sparks to ignite it but after a enough attempts its possible to oversaturate the gas in the chamber preventing the gas from igniting until you air it out for a few minutes.
@@AmreSupply thank you so much for reply. Normally how far should it be from the pilot? Is it possible that the spark is too weak and that is why it won't ignite?
@@aroniphraimov3915 The spark is usually quite close to the pilot as it completes the circuit though the metal of the pilot housing. Yes spark ignitor that is failing, shorted to ground or is just weak can prevent the gas from igniting. The ignition module can be replaced if needed.
Excellent
I have replace twice. It will light up for about 30 to 40 mins and then it will completely shut off. Any suggestions? Model 6g40s-34f3 thanks
Thanks for watching. If the pilot light keeps on going out and only stays lit for 30 minutes then its likely an issue with the airflow. Make sure that the vent has a clear path. Any restriction can create back drafting. You can see test here: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
As well make sure that there is a good supply of air into the room or the water heater. There should be space below the door, to let air in or a vent to refill the air.
Excelente trabajo felicidades por es explicar perfectamente
¡Eres bienvenido! You're welcome!
Whats going on when the pilot light is on but the burner doesn't kick ok to heat water
Thank you for watching. If the burners do not ignite then it could be a faulty gas valve or low gas pressure.
@@AmreSupply Thank you
@@alexramirez5562 You're welcome
Excellent video, thank you.
You're welcome!
Ugh. Instead of a "component block" I have a round rubber washer with 3 holes. I can't see how to remove the wires from the washer without cutting the washer, then reassembling it with JB Weld or something.
Thanks for watching. If you have to cut the rubber washer, make a single cut if possible. When installing, if it is a tight enough fit, there should be enough pressure to push the rubber down to seal the cut portion of it. If it seems like there is a gap where air can flow out then you might need to think of some sort of sealant.
@@AmreSupply - Awesome thanks so much!
@@ikigai47 You're welcome!
How do I find what specific model I need for my water heater?
Thanks for watching. You'll want to pull the model number off the Gas control valve. Then look for a thermopile that is compatible with that brand or series of models. Double check that the new thermopile has the same connections as the old one. The millivolt ratings between thermopiles are generally the same so it just needs the right connections.
Nice video, thanks
Question, I don't see a 1/2' gas union ? How did you get all that rigid pipe installed ?
Or is this a riddle ?
Thanks for watching! This water heater is place up in our filming studio and is not connected to gas, so the pipe just runs up above the frame and is left open. When filming we sometimes build sets rather than filming on location as it gives us enough room for equipment and lighting. This helps us get good looking close up shots of the repair.
@@AmreSupply Thanks, I knew I wasn't crazy. Very good video and explanation, Thumbs Up
@@InCountry6970 Thanks, we're glad you found the video helpful! We have many more videos on our channel as well, we try to make them all as informative as this video with 3d graphics / animations. Cheers!
i have replace de control gas valve and the pilot kit and it keeps telling me that the thermopile has low voltage i replace it again and it keeps telling me the same thing any tips after a while heaters off
Thanks for watching. If the pilot won't stay lit then it could be an issue with the airflow. ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html As well it could be a dirty pilot orifice which would result in a weak flame. The pilot orifice can often be unscrewed and cleaned with a pin or a wire.
thanks alot ill try that today
Thank you for the video!!!
You're welcome, thank you for watching!
Amazing presentation! Clear as a day instructions. Thank you!
Thank you! We're glad found the video easy to follow!
Awesome presentation in trouble shooting water heaters.
I followed your steps in diagnosing the issue. This is the result:
Thermopile gives more than 760 mV DC
Thermal Cut Off Switch shows continuity (0.1 ohm)
I will describe my problem, any input is appreciated.
This water heater is manufactured on Feb 2016 by Whirlpool.
I brought this house on Sep 2017.
On Jul 2018 is when water heater turned off (pilot turned off) and I restarted it. After few days it went off again.
I called service company and they cleaned the thermopile and started it back. It run for few days and it went off again.
Service company came and replaced the electronic gas valve (Honeywell). I was not convinced they root caused the issue. After few days it went off again and I restarted it.
By this time it was fall (September) and it continued to run till 2019 July. All through the summer, it went off 4-5 times and I restarted it each time (I was less concerned as it didn't give any problem during fall, winter or spring)
Come the summer 2020, it started showing same issue. Already I restarted 4 times. On Jun 26th, I have followed your steps and cleaned the thermopile and restarted it. It run for 4-5 hours and when pilot went off, I was near by (just went to check).
Water heater main burner was running and then it went off straight away. I tried restarting pilot and it did not start. But one thing I observed, bottom body of water heater is hot, pilot tube is hot.
I shutdown the gas valve and didn't tried restarting it. Today, 27 June, I followed the steps and measured. Thermopile and TCO is good as per the test results.
I have a gut feeling that, this issue only happens during Summer (water heater is placed in basement without any heating) and the body appeared to be hot when it turned off yesterday, it is most likely because of over heating.
Can you please provide some inputs on what might be causing water heater to over heat ? Or is it some other problem ?
Appreciate any inputs.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful. One thing that can cause the pilot to go out and the water heater to shut off is poor airflow. Its best to clean any dust off the bottom of the tank, on the flame arrestor screen and to make sure that the flue vent is not obstructed. Also you should have a source of air, or a space on the door leading into the room that you have the water heater. Anything that affects the airflow can create issues. You can see a few of these checks in this video we created at this linked time: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html Hope this helps!
Hi AMRE, Great video! Where do I get a new thermopile? Thanks.
Thanks for watching, we're glad you found it helpful! You can see all the water heater parts that AMRE carries here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Hot-Water-Tank-Parts-647736
all good except you need to remove the water pan under the water heater and of course my bradfore white has a compleatly defferent thermopile assembly
Thanks for watching. There are some variations between models but we hope the video was still helpful to you
Thank you for clear information
You're welcome Prashanth! Thanks for watching!
Que voltimetro me recomiendas
Thanks for watching. Something like this will measure millivolts: www.amresupply.com/part/9462539
Thanx bro...
You're welcome!
What model of multimeter is that?
Hi Alex, thank you for watching. Its a Milwaukee 2216-20 www.amresupply.com/part/2216-20-DIGITAL-MULTIMETER
Thank you
You're welcome!
I've done this, but still can't get the pilot light to ignite. Whats my next step?
Hi Rachael, thank you for watching. You'll want to check the thermal cutoff switch as well as making sure that the airflow is good. You can see more in this video: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
Should use steel wool instead of any emery cloth or sandpaper. It can deposit silica that can bake on an insulation
Thanks for watching. That is a solid tip, you can't go wrong with steel wool!
This is the comment I was looking for! I don't have emery cloth.
Thank you!
Wow thank you!
You're welcome Kalia!
saludos desde mexico city.....
Gracias por ver!
Hired a plumber... dude reset my switch and said nothing is wrong... obviously something is wrong as the heater isn't predictable and pops the switch 3 times now. I'll run the following tests soon. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. You are right that if a thermal cutoff or a limit switch repetitively is being tripped under normal conditions, then it could be an issue with the airflow. There are a few things you can check which is outlined in this video: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.htmlsi=xrg_U4C86I2C5Zqq&t=356
@@AmreSupply thanks. I've cleaned the crap out of the unit. Originally it was dusted up ... But 2 months later and it triggered again. Then a month later the same thing.
@@kaoticmind09Any restriction of the exhaust airflow can also create these sorts of issues so if possible, check the outside vent cover for any debris, ice or anything else that might block the exhaust.
Great Channel
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info!
In the other video you said 20-30mV.
Thanks for watching. You likely came from the thermocouple video for conventional water heaters. Thermocouples produce less power than thermopiles. Electronic valves use thermopiles and require more voltage.
650-850 mV = Good
< 400 mV = Bad
What if the reading maxes out around 550 or 560mV?
Thanks for watching. For an open circuit test a thermocouple voltage of 550mV will still be fine. If you're pilot isn't staying lit then it's best to check the thermal cutoff switch as shown in this video ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
I replaced my thermopile and the DC mV dropped to 0.7... after reaching 410.2.......Ugh
Thanks for watching. If there is less voltage (in an open test) after installing a new thermopile then it's possible that the pilot flame is weak or the flame is not hitting the right spot in the thermopile. It's worth removing the burner assembly, giving it a cleaning and checking the position of the thermopile.
1.5x playback speed gang
Thanks for watching!
Let's not forget that there's a battery inside that compartment it is a 9-volt battery and that is why sometimes it does not stay lit or shows low voltage thermopile
Thanks for watching. The Honeywell control valve which is shown in this video does not use a battery but instead is powered by the thermopile. A battery is not used to keep the pilot flame lit, it would actually negate the safety of the system.
The thermopile generates power, if there is no flame, or if the thermopile is not heated by the pilot, then there is not enough power to keep the gas valve open. This prevents gas from being released when there is no flame present to burn it.
If you have a water heater that uses a battery, what is the model number of the control valve? It's always good to see these sorts of variations as it is not a common occurrence.
Wow, so you have to do all of that just to rub the thermopile with an emery cloth 🤯
Thanks for watching. Yes the burner assembly does take a few steps to fully access.
Guy reminds me of Bob Ross for HVAC...
Thanks for watching! We'll take that compliment... Bob Ross is 100% awesome!
I can appreciate the narrator speaking slowly and clearly while guiding from one step to another, but, I found this same cadence jarring when he was simply speaking directly to the camera.
Perhaps I expected him to have a fro.
Thanks for watching, in some of our videos Vance has a wicked mustache but unfortunately never a fro.
xlint video
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info!
Есть на русском нехрена не понял
Thanks for watching.
This video is good but flawed. He's setting people up to chase their tail if they have a bad thermal cutoff. You don't want to test the red wire at the valve control unit at first. You initially want to test it on the input of the thermal cutoff switch. Then you can test it at the valve control panel. If you have good voltage at the input of the thermal cutoff but not at the actual device, your thermal cut-off is the problem. That's a very simple thing to explain but was completely left out.
Thank you for watching and for sharing your feedback. This video was specific to the thermopile as many are searching for how to test, access and replace the thermopile. We did a full troubleshooting video "pilot won't stay lit" which goes into more detail and addresses the point you brought up. That video is clearly linked in the description of this video. ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.html
@@AmreSupply LOL I guess you only give advice. You don't take it? My way of testing is the correct way of testing. Your way is a way of misdiagnosing the problem. After watching your video if someone got no voltage they would just replace the thermopile even if the thermal cutoff switch was the problem. Or you could teach them the proper way of isolating it before testing it. Hmmmm food for thought.
@@aznative_ Both the integrated testing and the isolated testing are already explained in the full troubleshooting video which is highlighted and clearly linked in the description for others to find: ruclips.net/video/UXpmmGuewk8/видео.htmlsi=qP0zf7JfOen5BfLN&t=254
"The voltage should start to rise over the next few minutes as the thermopile heats up.
In an open circuit test, a healthy thermopile should read between 650 and 850 millivolts.
If the multimeter reads under 400 millivolts then the pilot might have trouble staying lit.
Over time a buildup of carbon will act as an insulator and will reduce the voltage.
One solution is to clean it, but in a lot of cases it's best to install a new thermopile.
Now if the thermopile is healthy, then it could be a problem with the thermal cutoff switch.
You can learn more in the video linked below."
In this case a bad cutoff switch will not produce low voltage, so there is no misdiagnosing as we directly mention the cutoff switch as a potential source of the problem.
I can see how additional explanation would clarify it or including all testing in this particular video would be helpful but as it is already published we cannot simply make any edits to the video itself without deleting, re-uploading and losing all views likes and interactions.
There is now an extra pinned comment clarifying and directing people to the full troubleshooting video with both the isolated and integrated testing.
@@AmreSupply you're a fool
Why is the clip so easy for everybody but me? Such bs.
I broke the little bastard and now am furious.
Thanks for watching. Are you saying that you broke the clip that holds in the thermopile?
@@AmreSupply exactly what I did. But I found a way to rig it.
Thanks
@@larryb883 Thanks for the update, we're glad that you found a way to make it work.