Is there anyone else that Sub`d just because of the Southing Voice that just bestowed Great Knowledge onto my ears that I didn't even know I needed to know!?
Thank you sooooo much for this video. After my thermopile tested OK, I cleaned it per your other video and then tested the thermal cutoff switch. It just needed to be reset by pressing the button in the middle of the switch per your instructions. Worked like a charm and the pilot now stayed lit and the heater kicked on. Thank you again. Saved me hundreds of dollars in repairs. Great quality video with animation and sound. Many blessings!
You're welcome Sasha, we're glad that you found the videos helpful! The animations are something that we put a lot of effort in but we feel it helps ground the concepts. All the best to you!
The thermo cutoff switch was giving me zero voltage (Thermopile had 500ma) I did notice something that looked like a plunger on the cutoff switch, but I didn't want to touch it until I confirmed it. This is the only video I saw that pointed that out, and tomorrow I'll be looking forward to the hot shower I didn't have this morning. Thanks!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!. Just to clarify, in an isolated test the cutoff switch should have continuity with a resistance between 0 and 1 ohm.. If it's isolated from the thermopile there will be no voltage reading. In some cases you can test the thermopile and cutoff switch together. This should show the same voltage reading as testing the thermopile by itself.
Awesome, went thru all the videos, this was only one to talk about continuity of the switch. Mine was open,hit the button i didnt know was there and got continuity. Lit it and fired right up. Thank you for the video
Hi, I just wanted to say thank you for this video. I just fixed my water heater by pressing the button on thermal switch. Your instructions were so easy to follow. I was so very happy. 💃💃Thanks again.
I’ve replaced my thermal cutoff switch and the burner finally turns on. The problem is the burner stays lit and the light on the control valve goes off. Is that normal operation for the light not to blink on the control valve?
Thanks for watching. A single blinking light means that the it is working properly. No indicator light usually means that the thermopile is not providing enough power. In this case the pilot flame and burner will shut off as there wouldn't be enough power to keep the solenoid valve open. If everything is working correctly and the indicator light isn't turning on at all, it is possible that the indicator light has burnt out.
Great video! The thermocouple is good (25mV) and the pilot stays lit, but the main burner won't fire. Could a bad TCO cause this, or is the main gas valve shot? (I pulled the burner assembly and cleaned it with compressed air.)
Thanks, we're just happy to help! A faulty TCO would prevent both the pilot light and the main burner from staying lit. In your case the pilot stays lit so that means the TCO is good. Since you already cleaned the burner, then its likely an issue with the gas valve itself.
Thanks for watching, we're glad you found the video helpful! Most TCOs will be a bi-metal snap disc. These shouldn't fail that often as the TCO is not supposed to be tripped regularly, so you won't see the same kind of metal fatigue as other bi-metallic switches in other appliances. Unfortunately there aren't any good statistics on failure rates. There are some environmental factors: Exposure to moisture, corrosion, or other environmental stresses can affect the longevity of the TCO.
I was going to change my whole burner assembly with a tune up kit because my thermal switch continues to trip. However, the metal face plate is beginning to change color. Is this a sign of a bad water heater ? Or is the discoloration normal. Thanks for the great video !
Hi Jared, thank you for watching. Since your thermal switch continues to trip best to clean the flame arrestor screen and clean around the flue vent . As well check to make sure there is a good airflow supply to the furnace room. Discoloration will often happen over time but its often a sign of or a yellow or dirty flame. This can be helped by cleaning any carbon built up on the burner.
Thanks for watching. Thermal cutoff switches, limit switches, and toggle switches are not affected by polarity. The switches will simply connect or disconnect the circuit so you can swap the wires and it won't affect how it operates.
Thanks for watching. If if the cutoff switch keeps tripping then either the burner is overheating or the switch is faulty. If the switch is fine, but the pilot won't stay lit, then it could be a faulty thermocouple. You could try installing a new thermocouple, and cleaning the threads where the thermocouple screws into the valve. ruclips.net/video/Mx6rZA9Yxv4/видео.html
My cutoff switch looks different from the one shown in the video and I can’t find one like it anywhere? Is it safe to replace it with the one shown in the video because I’d have to make some holes for the screws?
Thanks for watching. It is best to replace the same cutoff switch as it needs to mount and seal properly. If the new cutoff switch is a different shape, or different rating then it will not work as designed.
Love your videos!! I have a thermal cutoff that trips only after extended firing of the heater such as after drawing a hot tub. It doesn't trip after a shower. I thought it might be a draft problem or dirty filter. I cleaned the filter and checked the draft. Both seem fine. Could it be caused by a weak Thermal Switch? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you, we're glad that you're finding our videos helpful! The thermal switch uses a bi-metallic disc that bends as it heats up. Over time the metal becomes fatigued and this can result in the switch triggering at lower and lower temperatures. In your case installing a new switch will likely help.
I bought a thermopile assembly and it has wires for thermoswitch but there is no thermo switch on the water heater..what do I need to do with 2 red wires that suppose to be for the thermoswitch..thank you
Thanks for watching! From the sounds of it you have a setup similar to this video (except without a thermal switch) ruclips.net/video/Yx2gfgJB7bI/видео.html with 1 full white wire, and a red wire that goes from the thermopile to the cutoff switch, and another red wire that goes from the cutoff switch with a special connector that inserts into the gas valve.. If that's the case, and you don't have a switch then you'll have to splice the wires together. You can cut the wires with wire strippers and use a twist-on wire connector, or something like a butt splice connector.
After inspecting out water heater it has thermo switch but there is no wires connected to it please advise Gas heater is on but pilot flame is very low thanks
Thanks for watching. In some cases the wires to the thermo cutoff switch might not be visible from the outside and will run along the inside. If the pilot flame is low then it could be a dirty pilot orifice (restricting the flow of gas) or low gas pressure.
Thanks for watching. There is some variation between models so it is difficult to say which parts will fit which models. It's best to lookup the model number, or use the part number on the side of the switch as possible to find an exact replacement.
1:14 I am not sure what it is called but the white electrical component on the bottem left, the two wires that connect to it have a while sleeve on my heater and they are brown as if they got burnt could that be the reason why our heater is heating?
Thanks for watching. Yes burnt or damaged wires can prevent the water heater from heating. If you have an electronic valve you are likely referring to the wires to the thermopile. You can see how to test the thermopile in this video: ruclips.net/video/Yx2gfgJB7bI/видео.html Hope that helps!
@@AmreSupply I took it off yeah i watched it is a one time fuse, the tops of the metal tabs (sorry im 15) is burnt and has hard small pieces of charcoal or another burnt substance and flame marks on the metal it's self so im assuming it has to be replaced? the hard ware store closes in like 2 hours thank you for the fast reply
Hi Ryan, thank you for watching. The temperature will differ between models and the position of the switch. Many switches have a rating on the side, as well you can use the part number to look up the rating. Its not uncommon for a switch to be rated for 170° F or higher.
My thermal switch keeps tripping on my natural gas AO Smith heater. I've done the match test and the flue is sucking in the smoke, replaced the pilot assembly multiple times (before I knew it had tripped), and I've cleaned the bottom of the water heater vigorously. Would the last replacement be the Honeywell gas control unit?
Hi Mark, thank you for watching. It seems like you've been very thorough in trying to eliminate each source of the issue. Before replacing the gas control unit, it would be smart to replace the thermal cutoff switch first. These are generally made with a bi-metal disc. The metal disc will bend and snap open when heated and will disconnect power to the circuit until the reset button pushes the disc back closed. This metal can warp over time so in some cases a thermal switch can begin to trip at lower and lower temperatures. Its easier to replace the thermal switch than the gas control unit, so it might save you some trouble.
You can jump that tco for a short period and see if the water heater stays lit. If it does, the unit probably isn't clean enough for combustion and its overheating and tripping the switch
My AO Smith heater runs without me connecting the wires to the TCO I broke mine and it looks like it was welded on problem I'm having is it has a rod that goes inside would it make a difference is I install one without it
Thanks for watching. The rod that you're describing would just help transfer heat into the TCO, which would help it react faster to an overheating condition. Without that rod it would still likely work but would be slower to react. The TCO is a switch that is normally closed and only opens up and disconnects the circuit when it overheats. This is why the water heater can function without the TCO connected. It is not recommended to bypass any safety switch.
Only took me 4 and a half hours to figure out that I needed to hit this invisible black button to be able to light the burner again. Most would have called the repair man by now. Something tells me that’s how they want it. A little TOO safe if you ask me. To the tune of hundreds of dollars for Ricky to come over and make it work like magic. Maddening
Btw, thank you for your video sir. I should be less angry cuz you saved me hard earned money, they’re making everything “unserviceable” these days. Hiding screws under stickers and such lol
@@trux91ify Thanks for watching, we're glad that the video helped you out. There are tricky parts to any repair. Recently ran into the same sort of issue but with a vehicle repair. Winshield washer fluid wouldn't work. Replaced the handle and button an nothing helped. No mention of a fuse or relay in the service manual. On some forum one person mentioned a "2nd" relay box hidden below the washer basin. This 2nd relay box was not mentioned anywhere despite it having a dozen relays in it. It was a $10 relay to replace but took hours narrow down.
Hi Bill, thank you for watching. If the TCO in your water heater doesn't use screws and is instead welded in place, then you'll likely have to replace the whole burner assembly, manifold tube and the door. This will come as a single piece as shown in this example here for John Woods water heaters www.amresupply.com/part/58993-JW-JW50-MANIFOLD-DOOR-ASSEMBLY
@@AmreSupply Thank you very much for the info...I was afraid of that. 6 years ago I was renting this house and the pilot wouldn't stay lit and the owner had me call a plumber. WELL...he replaced the thermal coupling and maybe the burner and of course he spent 2 hours driving around because of left hand thread. 5 months after that it quit again. The plumbing company owner came by and said..."let me try this" and connected the 2 wires together coming off the TCO....told me to get a bottle brush and clean the screen under the heater and he would come by and fix it....he never did. So....Off and on the pilot would go off and I would keep connecting the 2 wires together because if you just barley hit them the pilot would go off. I FOUND YOUR VIDEO in February of this year. Checked with Volt meter....OL...but noticed the little white stem in the center and low and behold it reset when I pushed it. Went off again yesterday....but the white stem didn't pop out to reset. BUT....because of you and your video I now know what to do. Thank you VERY much! You would of thought the plumber would have at least told me what it was. You are a blessing!
@@billjohnson5580 Thank you for sharing your experience. We're so glad that the video helped you gain a bit of knowledge. Its good to know what to reset and what to test to verify if its running properly. Best of luck with any future repairs!
Hey folks I'm in need of a Thermal Switch for a Reliance 606 Gas Hot Water Heater. I cracked mine (which I super glued), and think I had an overheat in a recent light up of a dormant HWH. It lit fine the other day and then went out. I assumed that it was the thermocouple when I replaced. Still no go. Leaves me to believe that (aside from it being cracked, it worked fine for my initial relight), that it is the Thermal Switch... unless its the Thermostat now that the Thermal Switch shut off the main thermostat valve.
Thanks for watching. Thermal cuttoff switches can become more sensitive over time as the metal inside becomes fatigued. This explains why even with continuity, the switch might disconnect power at temperatures lower than what it is rated for.
Hi Alex, thank you for watching. You'll need to match the cutoff switch to your particular model and take note of the temperature rating. We don't have all models though but if you're curious you can look here www.amresupply.com/search/48/48?q=limit+switches and here www.amresupply.com/catalog/Thermostats-647762-PP2H
Thanks for watching. The two wires come from the gas valve. They are wired in series to the gas valve solenoid so that if the cutoff switch trips or fails, the gas valve solenoid will not energize.
Hi Jeff, thank you for watching. A reset-able TCO can warp overtime due to metal fatigue so it might open at a slightly lower temperature, but will still show continuity at room temperature. The chance of this increases with the age of the water heater. If the TCO keeps tripping its still good to check for airflow etc first to eliminate anything that might cause overheating. If the pilot won't stay lit and the TCO has continuity then check the thermocouple or thermopile.
Thanks for watching. The thermal cutoff switch is a non-load component, It simply provides a path for electricity to pass though so it is unaffected by the polarity of the wires. You can put either wire on either end and it won't change how the switch works
@@fahmidasultanaemu637 When the water heater is off, the switch is not active so it can be removed to be tested or replaced. It can be disconnected, as long as you reconnect it before using the water heater again.
Hi there, my thermal switch OEM part number is 100112053 (for john wood tank).. i see its a special order on your website may I ask if this is an automatically resetting switch or a one time fuse? (since it has no button on it).. it looks like the switch you show with the honeywell control unit in the video at 1:15 and 2:47
Hi Maha, thank you for watching. That switch is a one time fuse and doesn't seem to automatically reset. The ones that automatically reset are the button style design.
@@AmreSupply it actually does reset if you push on the right side just above the little bar going across the bottom (you'll see the little metal tab that sticks out a bit)
@@dougluijkx5893 Thanks for sharing your experience, it's good to know that it was able to reset for you. When we were filming this series, we received that water heater second hand and never had it fully hooked up in our studio. When taking a closer look at the switch, it had scorch marks and we couldn't seem to get the metal to push in and it repetitively failed the continuity tests. We never saw the switch in the original state so it looked like it wasn't re-settable.
Thanks for watching. Older models don't use a TCO. The TCO and a flame arrestor screen was introduced with updated regulations 20 years ago which means new models were required to have those installed.
@@ShiningSta18486 Not sure of all variations between models, the newer ones should have some of those additional safety devices. If the pilot won't stay lit then the thermocouple can be tested to see if it is producing enough voltage. You can see more in this video: ruclips.net/video/Mx6rZA9Yxv4/видео.html As well it's worth cleaning the threads on the control valve that the thermocouple screws into. If there is corrosion then it can interfere with the electricity produced by the thermocouple.
@@AmreSupply mine has a thermopile, without a TCO which is next to impossible to find with the spade connection needed to go into a Honeywell gas control valve :(
First verify that your multimeter is good. On the Ohms / resistance setting, touch the probes together. You should get a reading close to 0 ohms. Now make sure the thermal switch is isolated and the probes make good contact with the terminals. A healthy switch should be between 0 and 1 ohm. If you're still getting an intermittent reading, or no reading at all, then the switch is faulty and should be replaced.
I really appreciate companies like yours making videos like these
You're welcome, we're just happy to help share some good information!
Is there anyone else that Sub`d just because of the Southing Voice that just bestowed Great Knowledge onto my ears that I didn't even know I needed to know!?
Thank you for your kind words, we're just happy to help!
Thank you sooooo much for this video. After my thermopile tested OK, I cleaned it per your other video and then tested the thermal cutoff switch. It just needed to be reset by pressing the button in the middle of the switch per your instructions. Worked like a charm and the pilot now stayed lit and the heater kicked on. Thank you again. Saved me hundreds of dollars in repairs. Great quality video with animation and sound. Many blessings!
You're welcome Sasha, we're glad that you found the videos helpful! The animations are something that we put a lot of effort in but we feel it helps ground the concepts. All the best to you!
Thank you boss for your knowledge
Same! I didn't realize the TCO switch had a reset button. Saved me having to get an HVAC/plumber out.
Exactly what I needed to see to give me the confidence to successfully make this repair on my own. Many thanks 👍
You're welcome Steven, we're so glad to hear that the video helped you successfully fix your water heater!
The thermo cutoff switch was giving me zero voltage (Thermopile had 500ma) I did notice something that looked like a plunger on the cutoff switch, but I didn't want to touch it until I confirmed it. This is the only video I saw that pointed that out, and tomorrow I'll be looking forward to the hot shower I didn't have this morning.
Thanks!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!. Just to clarify, in an isolated test the cutoff switch should have continuity with a resistance between 0 and 1 ohm.. If it's isolated from the thermopile there will be no voltage reading. In some cases you can test the thermopile and cutoff switch together. This should show the same voltage reading as testing the thermopile by itself.
Awesome, went thru all the videos, this was only one to talk about continuity of the switch. Mine was open,hit the button i didnt know was there and got continuity. Lit it and fired right up. Thank you for the video
You're welcome Geoff, we're just happy to help!
Hi, I just wanted to say thank you for this video. I just fixed my water heater by pressing the button on thermal switch. Your instructions were so easy to follow. I was so very happy. 💃💃Thanks again.
You're welcome Stephanie, we're glad to hear that the video helped you out!
Just a note there is a reason that it tripped. Usually, it's because your filter screen is dirty. Vacuum it off, and you're good to go.
I’ve replaced my thermal cutoff switch and the burner finally turns on. The problem is the burner stays lit and the light on the control valve goes off. Is that normal operation for the light not to blink on the control valve?
Thanks for watching. A single blinking light means that the it is working properly. No indicator light usually means that the thermopile is not providing enough power. In this case the pilot flame and burner will shut off as there wouldn't be enough power to keep the solenoid valve open. If everything is working correctly and the indicator light isn't turning on at all, it is possible that the indicator light has burnt out.
Great video! The thermocouple is good (25mV) and the pilot stays lit, but the main burner won't fire. Could a bad TCO cause this, or is the main gas valve shot? (I pulled the burner assembly and cleaned it with compressed air.)
Thanks, we're just happy to help! A faulty TCO would prevent both the pilot light and the main burner from staying lit. In your case the pilot stays lit so that means the TCO is good. Since you already cleaned the burner, then its likely an issue with the gas valve itself.
Should I push in the reset button on the tco before testing with multimeter?
Thanks for watching. Yes its best to press the reset button first before testing and before relighting the pilot.
Late comer here. Is there a statistic on how often the TCO Switch can fail?
Thanks for the well prepared video.
Thanks for watching, we're glad you found the video helpful! Most TCOs will be a bi-metal snap disc. These shouldn't fail that often as the TCO is not supposed to be tripped regularly, so you won't see the same kind of metal fatigue as other bi-metallic switches in other appliances. Unfortunately there aren't any good statistics on failure rates.
There are some environmental factors: Exposure to moisture, corrosion, or other environmental stresses can affect the longevity of the TCO.
I was going to change my whole burner assembly with a tune up kit because my thermal switch continues to trip. However, the metal face plate is beginning to change color. Is this a sign of a bad water heater ? Or is the discoloration normal. Thanks for the great video !
Hi Jared, thank you for watching. Since your thermal switch continues to trip best to clean the flame arrestor screen and clean around the flue vent . As well check to make sure there is a good airflow supply to the furnace room. Discoloration will often happen over time but its often a sign of or a yellow or dirty flame. This can be helped by cleaning any carbon built up on the burner.
Both wires coming into the TCO switch are of the same colour. How do you know which wire is connected to which terminal?
Thanks for watching. Thermal cutoff switches, limit switches, and toggle switches are not affected by polarity. The switches will simply connect or disconnect the circuit so you can swap the wires and it won't affect how it operates.
I have an automatic switch. How long it takes to for it to automatically reset?
Thanks for watching. The metal inside the switch needs to cool down for it to reset, so it will likely take 10 or more minutes.
Excellent video...clear, concise, informative. Thanks!
You're welcome, we're just happy that you found it helpful!
Hi there, I click the reset button and get it fired up. About 5 min later, it kicks off? Is it possible my thermocouple is too close to my piolet?
Thanks for watching. If if the cutoff switch keeps tripping then either the burner is overheating or the switch is faulty.
If the switch is fine, but the pilot won't stay lit, then it could be a faulty thermocouple. You could try installing a new thermocouple, and cleaning the threads where the thermocouple screws into the valve. ruclips.net/video/Mx6rZA9Yxv4/видео.html
My cutoff switch looks different from the one shown in the video and I can’t find one like it anywhere? Is it safe to replace it with the one shown in the video because I’d have to make some holes for the screws?
Thanks for watching. It is best to replace the same cutoff switch as it needs to mount and seal properly. If the new cutoff switch is a different shape, or different rating then it will not work as designed.
Love your videos!! I have a thermal cutoff that trips only after extended firing of the heater such as after drawing a hot tub. It doesn't trip after a shower. I thought it might be a draft problem or dirty filter. I cleaned the filter and checked the draft. Both seem fine. Could it be caused by a weak Thermal Switch? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you, we're glad that you're finding our videos helpful! The thermal switch uses a bi-metallic disc that bends as it heats up. Over time the metal becomes fatigued and this can result in the switch triggering at lower and lower temperatures. In your case installing a new switch will likely help.
@@AmreSupply thank you very much
@@oldpumpguy3744 You're welcome!
I bought a thermopile assembly and it has wires for thermoswitch but there is no thermo switch on the water heater..what do I need to do with 2 red wires that suppose to be for the thermoswitch..thank you
Thanks for watching! From the sounds of it you have a setup similar to this video (except without a thermal switch) ruclips.net/video/Yx2gfgJB7bI/видео.html with 1 full white wire, and a red wire that goes from the thermopile to the cutoff switch, and another red wire that goes from the cutoff switch with a special connector that inserts into the gas valve..
If that's the case, and you don't have a switch then you'll have to splice the wires together. You can cut the wires with wire strippers and use a twist-on wire connector, or something like a butt splice connector.
After inspecting out water heater it has thermo switch but there is no wires connected to it please advise
Gas heater is on but pilot flame is very low thanks
Thanks for watching. In some cases the wires to the thermo cutoff switch might not be visible from the outside and will run along the inside.
If the pilot flame is low then it could be a dirty pilot orifice (restricting the flow of gas) or low gas pressure.
Hi . I have a American Water heater. Where I can just purchase the thermal cutoff switch?
Thanks for watching. You might have to go to a local supplier for that as there are different brands in Canada vs the USA.
I have a American water heater does this thermal switch work for this brand??
Thanks for watching. There is some variation between models so it is difficult to say which parts will fit which models. It's best to lookup the model number, or use the part number on the side of the switch as possible to find an exact replacement.
1:14 I am not sure what it is called but the white electrical component on the bottem left, the two wires that connect to it have a while sleeve on my heater and they are brown as if they got burnt could that be the reason why our heater is heating?
Thanks for watching. Yes burnt or damaged wires can prevent the water heater from heating. If you have an electronic valve you are likely referring to the wires to the thermopile. You can see how to test the thermopile in this video: ruclips.net/video/Yx2gfgJB7bI/видео.html Hope that helps!
@@AmreSupply I took it off yeah i watched it is a one time fuse, the tops of the metal tabs (sorry im 15) is burnt and has hard small pieces of charcoal or another burnt substance and flame marks on the metal it's self so im assuming it has to be replaced? the hard ware store closes in like 2 hours thank you for the fast reply
@@cojoe4896 Yes that's a pretty good indicator that its a fuse and that it has burnt out. Still to be certain you can test it for continuity.
Hi. My pilot lights ups, but the valve will not start blinking so that I can operate it....????
Thanks for watching. If the pilot stays lit, but the main burner does not light up, then it could be an issue with the control valve.
What temperature should the thermal switch trip at?
Hi Ryan, thank you for watching. The temperature will differ between models and the position of the switch. Many switches have a rating on the side, as well you can use the part number to look up the rating. Its not uncommon for a switch to be rated for 170° F or higher.
Thank you so much. This video help me get hot water again!!!
You're welcome Bob, we're glad the video helped you out!
My thermal switch keeps tripping on my natural gas AO Smith heater. I've done the match test and the flue is sucking in the smoke, replaced the pilot assembly multiple times (before I knew it had tripped), and I've cleaned the bottom of the water heater vigorously. Would the last replacement be the Honeywell gas control unit?
Hi Mark, thank you for watching. It seems like you've been very thorough in trying to eliminate each source of the issue. Before replacing the gas control unit, it would be smart to replace the thermal cutoff switch first. These are generally made with a bi-metal disc. The metal disc will bend and snap open when heated and will disconnect power to the circuit until the reset button pushes the disc back closed. This metal can warp over time so in some cases a thermal switch can begin to trip at lower and lower temperatures. Its easier to replace the thermal switch than the gas control unit, so it might save you some trouble.
You can jump that tco for a short period and see if the water heater stays lit. If it does, the unit probably isn't clean enough for combustion and its overheating and tripping the switch
My AO Smith heater runs without me connecting the wires to the TCO I broke mine and it looks like it was welded on problem I'm having is it has a rod that goes inside would it make a difference is I install one without it
Thanks for watching. The rod that you're describing would just help transfer heat into the TCO, which would help it react faster to an overheating condition. Without that rod it would still likely work but would be slower to react. The TCO is a switch that is normally closed and only opens up and disconnects the circuit when it overheats. This is why the water heater can function without the TCO connected. It is not recommended to bypass any safety switch.
@@AmreSupply Do you sell Thermal Cutoff Switch for AO Smith water heater?
@@sleepydo6463 Thanks for watching. You can see all limit switches available here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Thermostats-647762-PP2H
Concise relevant information. Great job on this video.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Only took me 4 and a half hours to figure out that I needed to hit this invisible black button to be able to light the burner again. Most would have called the repair man by now. Something tells me that’s how they want it. A little TOO safe if you ask me. To the tune of hundreds of dollars for Ricky to come over and make it work like magic. Maddening
Btw, thank you for your video sir. I should be less angry cuz you saved me hard earned money, they’re making everything “unserviceable” these days. Hiding screws under stickers and such lol
@@trux91ify Thanks for watching, we're glad that the video helped you out.
There are tricky parts to any repair. Recently ran into the same sort of issue but with a vehicle repair. Winshield washer fluid wouldn't work. Replaced the handle and button an nothing helped. No mention of a fuse or relay in the service manual. On some forum one person mentioned a "2nd" relay box hidden below the washer basin. This 2nd relay box was not mentioned anywhere despite it having a dozen relays in it. It was a $10 relay to replace but took hours narrow down.
Unfortunately my American Hot water heater's TCO doesn't have any screws to remove it....How do you remove it in this situation? Thanks!
Hi Bill, thank you for watching. If the TCO in your water heater doesn't use screws and is instead welded in place, then you'll likely have to replace the whole burner assembly, manifold tube and the door. This will come as a single piece as shown in this example here for John Woods water heaters www.amresupply.com/part/58993-JW-JW50-MANIFOLD-DOOR-ASSEMBLY
@@AmreSupply Thank you very much for the info...I was afraid of that. 6 years ago I was renting this house and the pilot wouldn't stay lit and the owner had me call a plumber. WELL...he replaced the thermal coupling and maybe the burner and of course he spent 2 hours driving around because of left hand thread. 5 months after that it quit again. The plumbing company owner came by and said..."let me try this" and connected the 2 wires together coming off the TCO....told me to get a bottle brush and clean the screen under the heater and he would come by and fix it....he never did. So....Off and on the pilot would go off and I would keep connecting the 2 wires together because if you just barley hit them the pilot would go off. I FOUND YOUR VIDEO in February of this year. Checked with Volt meter....OL...but noticed the little white stem in the center and low and behold it reset when I pushed it. Went off again yesterday....but the white stem didn't pop out to reset. BUT....because of you and your video I now know what to do. Thank you VERY much! You would of thought the plumber would have at least told me what it was. You are a blessing!
@@billjohnson5580 Thank you for sharing your experience. We're so glad that the video helped you gain a bit of knowledge. Its good to know what to reset and what to test to verify if its running properly. Best of luck with any future repairs!
Hey folks I'm in need of a Thermal Switch for a Reliance 606 Gas Hot Water Heater. I cracked mine (which I super glued), and think I had an overheat in a recent light up of a dormant HWH. It lit fine the other day and then went out. I assumed that it was the thermocouple when I replaced. Still no go. Leaves me to believe that (aside from it being cracked, it worked fine for my initial relight), that it is the Thermal Switch... unless its the Thermostat now that the Thermal Switch shut off the main thermostat valve.
Thanks for watching. Thermal cuttoff switches can become more sensitive over time as the metal inside becomes fatigued. This explains why even with continuity, the switch might disconnect power at temperatures lower than what it is rated for.
thanks for the helpful video
You're very welcome!
Nice work! Well done.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Hi can you give me the part number for the resettable TCO Please?, id really appreciate it.
Hi Alex, thank you for watching. You'll need to match the cutoff switch to your particular model and take note of the temperature rating. We don't have all models though but if you're curious you can look here www.amresupply.com/search/48/48?q=limit+switches and here www.amresupply.com/catalog/Thermostats-647762-PP2H
omg this video saved me! it was just the little reset button
Sometimes its just a simple fix! We're happy to hear that the video helped you out.
Where do the 2 wires come from that tie into the thermal cut off switch?
Thanks for watching. The two wires come from the gas valve. They are wired in series to the gas valve solenoid so that if the cutoff switch trips or fails, the gas valve solenoid will not energize.
If the tco has continuity can it still be bad
Hi Jeff, thank you for watching. A reset-able TCO can warp overtime due to metal fatigue so it might open at a slightly lower temperature, but will still show continuity at room temperature. The chance of this increases with the age of the water heater. If the TCO keeps tripping its still good to check for airflow etc first to eliminate anything that might cause overheating. If the pilot won't stay lit and the TCO has continuity then check the thermocouple or thermopile.
Does it matter what wire goes where ???
Thanks for watching. The thermal cutoff switch is a non-load component, It simply provides a path for electricity to pass though so it is unaffected by the polarity of the wires. You can put either wire on either end and it won't change how the switch works
@@AmreSupply thank you so much for the answer
@@scottm6188 You're welcome!
Thanks for asking, I’ve been looking for that answer!
Can u please share how to bypass thermal switch on water heater?
Thanks for watching. The thermal switch is a safety device and it is not safe to bypass it while running the water heater.
@@AmreSupply so can I bypass while the water Heater of off?
@@fahmidasultanaemu637 When the water heater is off, the switch is not active so it can be removed to be tested or replaced. It can be disconnected, as long as you reconnect it before using the water heater again.
Excellent presentation.
Thank you Cesar, we're glad you found the video helpful!
Great Video ! Thanks !
You're welcome! We're just happy to help!
Hi there, my thermal switch OEM part number is 100112053 (for john wood tank).. i see its a special order on your website may I ask if this is an automatically resetting switch or a one time fuse? (since it has no button on it).. it looks like the switch you show with the honeywell control unit in the video at 1:15 and 2:47
Hi Maha, thank you for watching. That switch is a one time fuse and doesn't seem to automatically reset. The ones that automatically reset are the button style design.
@@AmreSupply it actually does reset if you push on the right side just above the little bar going across the bottom (you'll see the little metal tab that sticks out a bit)
@@dougluijkx5893 Thanks for sharing your experience, it's good to know that it was able to reset for you. When we were filming this series, we received that water heater second hand and never had it fully hooked up in our studio. When taking a closer look at the switch, it had scorch marks and we couldn't seem to get the metal to push in and it repetitively failed the continuity tests. We never saw the switch in the original state so it looked like it wasn't re-settable.
Awesome job thank you so much
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
my thermal cut off switch do not have screws
Thanks for watching. Yes there can be some variation and not all of them will use screws.
Mine doesn't have a TCO what's up with that
Thanks for watching. Older models don't use a TCO. The TCO and a flame arrestor screen was introduced with updated regulations 20 years ago which means new models were required to have those installed.
@@AmreSupply Mine says it's from 2014 but it looks much older strangely
The gas control valve won't light up and the pilot won't stay lit. We were planning on replacing the thermocouple
@@ShiningSta18486 Not sure of all variations between models, the newer ones should have some of those additional safety devices.
If the pilot won't stay lit then the thermocouple can be tested to see if it is producing enough voltage. You can see more in this video: ruclips.net/video/Mx6rZA9Yxv4/видео.html
As well it's worth cleaning the threads on the control valve that the thermocouple screws into. If there is corrosion then it can interfere with the electricity produced by the thermocouple.
@@AmreSupply mine has a thermopile, without a TCO which is next to impossible to find with the spade connection needed to go into a Honeywell gas control valve :(
Great Vid
Thank you!
You're welcome Btoddrocks!
The reading on the switch was bouncing all over the place on the meter
First verify that your multimeter is good. On the Ohms / resistance setting, touch the probes together. You should get a reading close to 0 ohms.
Now make sure the thermal switch is isolated and the probes make good contact with the terminals. A healthy switch should be between 0 and 1 ohm. If you're still getting an intermittent reading, or no reading at all, then the switch is faulty and should be replaced.
Thank you so much👍👍👍👍
You're very welcome Brandon!! Thank you for watching!
awesome!
Thank you Charlay!
Mark Franks call your h.v.a.c. contractor . This is not a D.I.Y. project.
Thanks for watching. You are right that installing a new control valve is best handled by a HVAC contractor.
😂
Thanks for watching.