IMPORTANT UPDATES: 1. Tony recommends to attach the bluetooth antenna to the transparent plastic cover of the controller box, on the vertical wall that passes the status LEDs light. It's a great location, so install it there and not where I placed in in my video (attached to the controller adapting metal plate). I had a lot of disconnections of the app in the original location and after moving it to where Tony recommends - it works great! 2. The final kit comes with Tony's replacement BMS. I recommend using it if you want a drop in replacement and to avoid any hassle, risk or soldering. 3. There is an option to use the original BMS, but it requires soldering of a bidge between the XT60 power connectors and you must do it while connected to the battery, because when you disconnect it from the battery the BMS bricks (you will need to recalibrate it with a stock controller that has an old firmware, prior to the haptic buzz). Also note that if your stock controller was in charge to 90% mode, the BMS will be stuck in this mode and will not balance the battery cells. Bottom line: it is possible to use the original BMS but it is complicated and risky. Though I did it for a while, I recommend avoiding it. 4. If you upgrade your battery, get a new BMS. The ZBMS from Zbattery Solutions or Flipsky 4S BMS is a great alternative charge-only BMS that can support larger batterries. Tony's BMS only supports up to 18s batteries. 5. The final kit also comes with replacement headlights LED bars for front and back, it's an easy drop in replacement - one screw holds the bars in place and one connector to attach. On the front (controller box) you'll need to use a new longer cable that comes with the kit to connect the bar to the small board with the status LEDs (the original cable is too short). And you should connect the data cable that is routed towards the battery box to a connector on the same small board, next to the power switch connector. On the back (battery box) its a straight forward replacement - install the LEDs bar instead of the original one and connect same connector that was connected to the original bar. Simple. Works great, with ability to change the lighting level by double pressing the GT power button.
The GTS did not struggle at all lmao. In fact, I prefer the GTS because it seems faster to me and has more torque. But that just my take on it. I love my SSeries. Anyways great video
That was the rider’s experience. It was the GT owner that tested it (not the GTV nor GTS owner to reduce bias). The haptic buzz kicked in. But it wasn’t a significant difference. It wasn’t a scientific test as well. About speed - GTV is definitely faster. I got to 47kph easily on GTV, while the official GTS top speed is 40kph. One can push through the pushback and haptic buzz and may get above 47kph, but it’s scary and I wouldn’t do it (look for the GTS top speed nose dive if you didn’t watch it yet). The audio warnings on duty cycle etc. on the VESC give me confidence to do it on the GTV. Saying all that - riding on GTS is definitely a great experience. Great power and flow. I don’t think I managed to reach the same level of flow experience on GTV. Hopefully I will manage to find the right tune eventually, but FM definitely does a great job tuning the Onewheel.
Logic is telling me that the Floatwheel V1 crushes the GTV and the V2 Floatwheel should leave everything aside a VOM in the dust. But shit, I still want this.
so what habbits and practivces change with charging on this BMS? is there still an way to limit the charging to 90% ? do you need to be cautious with leaving the charger connected over night?
Agree. People report improvement of ~10°C/50°F. I ordered a set myself. But I was positively surprised from the results without them - I had to push the motor to the limit on purpose to get it to heat up. On actual rides it didn’t go above 65°C/150°F, which is reasonable
What's the difference between replacing the bms with Tony's vs bridging the plugs by soldering with the stock bms? Thanks for this informative edit! 💪🏼
@@barrymonteiro8893 soldering is harder to do especially if you don't have the tools and supplies because the kit doesn't include a soldering iron. When the kit comes with the BMS then its a complete kit!
@@barrymonteiro8893you need to solder the bridge on the stock BMS when connected to the battery - requires experience and courage. If you disconnect the BMS from the battery it bricks and you will need a stock controller with old firmware (pre haptic buzz) to unbrick the BMS using the nRF recalibration method. And also note that if your stock GT was configured to charge to 90% the BMS will be stuck in this mode and won’t charge above 90%, and also not balance the cells. That what happened to me, so I replaced it with Tony’s BMS. As it comes in the kit today for a reasonable overall price - no brainer IMO.
There’s also a Floatwheel’s video that Tony made on the installation of the full kit - controller, BMS and headlights. No soldering required, it’s all plug&play
It makes the bms that is stock in the gt a charge only bms. This means that when discharging ( powering the board ) there is potential for discharge to occur unevenly in the battery pack. This happens when dendrites form after many charge / discharge cycles and can be a serious potential as cells age. A dendrite makes an insulating barrier in a chain, this is a resistor, resistors heat up, burn then arc. This is the very very compressed version of electrician 101 Resistors as a component on a circuit board are selected to be able to dissipate this heat, wires don't do that. The stock bms ( and the v2 float wheel ) is a charge/ discharge bms meaning the circuit board that has a logic controller ON the board and that communicates the state of the cells at all times and can alert if a issue develops. Lithium dendriteformation should only be an issue if battery's see a lot of cycles or are stored for long periods of time and then used without balance charging. Hope this answers the question you asked.... respectfully to the other responses.... maybe read the question 🤔 next time. Again respe truly intended nudge fellow floaters:)
As written towards the end of- similar range. On easy riding it is 11-12Wh/km, which will give more than 40km/25miles on a stock battery, which is equivalent to stock GT range. If you push it it will of course drop the range. See my numeric report here: www.reddit.com/r/FloatwheelTeam/s/eELAAthgo1
It came pre-tuned and behaved nicely out of the box, not sure if it is Nico’s or Float default. Most of the initial tests were done with Float default tune and later I switched to VESCmann Allround Float tune.
As I answered to another comment - it’s definitely subjective but we let the GT owner try them (not the GTV or GTS owners) and he felt the GTS was struggling more - haptic buzz and all. It wasn’t a significant difference in any case!
IMPORTANT UPDATES:
1. Tony recommends to attach the bluetooth antenna to the transparent plastic cover of the controller box, on the vertical wall that passes the status LEDs light. It's a great location, so install it there and not where I placed in in my video (attached to the controller adapting metal plate). I had a lot of disconnections of the app in the original location and after moving it to where Tony recommends - it works great!
2. The final kit comes with Tony's replacement BMS. I recommend using it if you want a drop in replacement and to avoid any hassle, risk or soldering.
3. There is an option to use the original BMS, but it requires soldering of a bidge between the XT60 power connectors and you must do it while connected to the battery, because when you disconnect it from the battery the BMS bricks (you will need to recalibrate it with a stock controller that has an old firmware, prior to the haptic buzz).
Also note that if your stock controller was in charge to 90% mode, the BMS will be stuck in this mode and will not balance the battery cells. Bottom line: it is possible to use the original BMS but it is complicated and risky. Though I did it for a while, I recommend avoiding it.
4. If you upgrade your battery, get a new BMS. The ZBMS from Zbattery Solutions or Flipsky 4S BMS is a great alternative charge-only BMS that can support larger batterries. Tony's BMS only supports up to 18s batteries.
5. The final kit also comes with replacement headlights LED bars for front and back, it's an easy drop in replacement - one screw holds the bars in place and one connector to attach. On the front (controller box) you'll need to use a new longer cable that comes with the kit to connect the bar to the small board with the status LEDs (the original cable is too short). And you should connect the data cable that is routed towards the battery box to a connector on the same small board, next to the power switch connector. On the back (battery box) its a straight forward replacement - install the LEDs bar instead of the original one and connect same connector that was connected to the original bar. Simple. Works great, with ability to change the lighting level by double pressing the GT power button.
Great job on this video! Love the all the testing and detailed stats provided!
Awesome! I can’t wait for these to be available.
Just placed my order.
float on, man. nice review. i think I need one too!!
Great video, lots of helpful information, and great scenery on your ride!
Great video. Thanks for the install bit at the beginning as well.
The GTS did not struggle at all lmao. In fact, I prefer the GTS because it seems faster to me and has more torque. But that just my take on it. I love my SSeries. Anyways great video
That was the rider’s experience. It was the GT owner that tested it (not the GTV nor GTS owner to reduce bias). The haptic buzz kicked in. But it wasn’t a significant difference. It wasn’t a scientific test as well.
About speed - GTV is definitely faster. I got to 47kph easily on GTV, while the official GTS top speed is 40kph. One can push through the pushback and haptic buzz and may get above 47kph, but it’s scary and I wouldn’t do it (look for the GTS top speed nose dive if you didn’t watch it yet). The audio warnings on duty cycle etc. on the VESC give me confidence to do it on the GTV.
Saying all that - riding on GTS is definitely a great experience. Great power and flow. I don’t think I managed to reach the same level of flow experience on GTV. Hopefully I will manage to find the right tune eventually, but FM definitely does a great job tuning the Onewheel.
Sunk cost fallacy is rampant with GTS owners 😂
Thanks for the updates. Just waiting on Tony....
Watching you rip to 23-26mph on the street just makes me love my GT-S. It still feels at 60% duty cycle at those speeds. So confidence inspiring
Just curious, what’s the most range you’ve gotten with the board?
GT-V or GT-S? idk what duty cycle you are referring to?
@@uhjyuff2095 GTS
He's ripping at twenty 32 twenty six kilometers per hour which is so lame
"Feels" but you can't check to verify 🤔
What’s this GUI Overlay starting 3:16 comes from? Which tool/app is this?
Can you share your tunes or tell me where I can go to hit you up about them ?
Logic is telling me that the Floatwheel V1 crushes the GTV and the V2 Floatwheel should leave everything aside a VOM in the dust. But shit, I still want this.
so what habbits and practivces change with charging on this BMS?
is there still an way to limit the charging to 90% ?
do you need to be cautious with leaving the charger connected over night?
Any thoughts on the power of the GT-V compared to an ADV?
Thanks SOOOO Much for the video this is fantastic... I wonder how much my stone cold chillers will help with the heat.
Agree. People report improvement of ~10°C/50°F. I ordered a set myself. But I was positively surprised from the results without them - I had to push the motor to the limit on purpose to get it to heat up. On actual rides it didn’t go above 65°C/150°F, which is reasonable
@@Sha_b_pvery reasonable 🤙🏾
What's the difference between replacing the bms with Tony's vs bridging the plugs by soldering with the stock bms? Thanks for this informative edit! 💪🏼
@@barrymonteiro8893 soldering is harder to do especially if you don't have the tools and supplies because the kit doesn't include a soldering iron. When the kit comes with the BMS then its a complete kit!
@@barrymonteiro8893you need to solder the bridge on the stock BMS when connected to the battery - requires experience and courage. If you disconnect the BMS from the battery it bricks and you will need a stock controller with old firmware (pre haptic buzz) to unbrick the BMS using the nRF recalibration method.
And also note that if your stock GT was configured to charge to 90% the BMS will be stuck in this mode and won’t charge above 90%, and also not balance the cells. That what happened to me, so I replaced it with Tony’s BMS. As it comes in the kit today for a reasonable overall price - no brainer IMO.
Do you need to do the soldering iron bit? What does that allow or prevent if you don’t do the soldering?
Thanks
no soldering with the latest kit. TFL will probably come out with a video on how to install it soon.
There’s also a Floatwheel’s video that Tony made on the installation of the full kit - controller, BMS and headlights. No soldering required, it’s all plug&play
It makes the bms that is stock in the gt a charge only bms. This means that when discharging ( powering the board ) there is potential for discharge to occur unevenly in the battery pack. This happens when dendrites form after many charge / discharge cycles and can be a serious potential as cells age.
A dendrite makes an insulating barrier in a chain, this is a resistor, resistors heat up, burn then arc. This is the very very compressed version of electrician 101
Resistors as a component on a circuit board are selected to be able to dissipate this heat, wires don't do that.
The stock bms ( and the v2 float wheel ) is a charge/ discharge bms meaning the circuit board that has a logic controller ON the board and that communicates the state of the cells at all times and can alert if a issue develops.
Lithium dendriteformation should only be an issue if battery's see a lot of cycles or are stored for long periods of time and then used without balance charging.
Hope this answers the question you asked.... respectfully to the other responses.... maybe read the question 🤔 next time. Again respe truly intended nudge fellow floaters:)
is this the same controller tony put in the pint?
what range are you getting with the upgrade?
As written towards the end of- similar range. On easy riding it is 11-12Wh/km, which will give more than 40km/25miles on a stock battery, which is equivalent to stock GT range. If you push it it will of course drop the range.
See my numeric report here:
www.reddit.com/r/FloatwheelTeam/s/eELAAthgo1
@@Sha_b_pYou're seriously awesome dude, thank you for testing this for the community ❤
@@Sha_b_pPS your taste in music is as awesome as you are
Did you tune it yourself or did it come pre-tuned?
It came pre-tuned and behaved nicely out of the box, not sure if it is Nico’s or Float default. Most of the initial tests were done with Float default tune and later I switched to VESCmann Allround Float tune.
Elton Lake
5:34 5:42 talk about bias, both the GT-S and Floatwheel looked the same amount of struggle going up that hill. Like come on now 🤦♂️
As I answered to another comment - it’s definitely subjective but we let the GT owner try them (not the GTV or GTS owners) and he felt the GTS was struggling more - haptic buzz and all. It wasn’t a significant difference in any case!
How deadly do you want this to be.
YESSSSSSSSSS